


a''- 



OO^ 






/ 



HISTORICAL 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 



HISTORICAL 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES 



NORFOLK AND VICINITY, 



f nrtsmnntji an^ tljp Sliijarrnt C^nuiitits, 



DURING A PEMOD OF 



TWO HUNDRED YEARS. 



ALSO, 



SKETCHES OF WILLIAMSBURG, HAMPTON, SUFFOLK, SMITHFIELD, 
AND OTHER TLACES, 



nrscKiPTioNs of some of the principal objects of interest 



EASTERN VIRGINIA. 



WILLIAM S. FORREST. 



PHILADELPHIA: 
LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON. 

1853. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, 

BY WILLIAM S. FORREST, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Virginia. 




C. SHERMAN', rUINTEB, 

19 St. James Street. 




PREFACE. 



When the author of the following historical observations de- 
termined to compile a Directory of the City of Norfolk, he 
contemplated also, as a suitable appendage thereto, the publica- 
tion of a brief description of its situation and facilities for trade 
and commerce, its advancement and prospects of future wealth 
and importance. On further reflection, however, it was deemed 
advisable to adopt a more extended plan, and attempt even a 
somewhat elaborate history of the place ; commencing at an 
early period, and continuing the account down to the present 
time ; embracing a description of the neighbouring towns and 
villages, the principal objects of attraction in the vicinity, &c., &;c. 

The work was accordingly commenced, with a determination 
to accomplish it with as little delay as possible; and it is scarcely 
necessary to mention, that the undertaking was attended with 
both labour and trouble, and required much time as well as con- 
siderable patience and perseverance. 

It is proper to state, that the difficulty in collecting the various 
materials for the work was greatly augmented, and the time 
required to prepare them for the press was considerably pro- 
longed, by other duties, which demanded much of the Avriter's 
time during its progress. It will be readily imagined that he 
would have found the task far more pleasant, could he have given 



X PREFACE. 

it his undivided attention from its commencement to its comple- 
tion. But he was compelled to pursue a different course, and 
devote to its prosecution those intervals by day and by night, 
which could be spared from other pursuits and engagements. 

With regard to the execution of the work under these circum- 
stances, he must abide by the decision of those whom it is designed 
to interest. 

To those persons whose kindness tended to facilitate his pro- 
gress, he avails himself of this occasion to express his thanks. 
To the editors of the several city papers, for the privilege of 
examining their files, his obligations are hereby specially and 
respectfully acknowledged. The writer is also indebted to the 
obliging disposition, retentive memory, and politeness of several 
venerable and greatly esteemed ladies and gentlemen of Norfolk 
and Portsmouth, for the particulars of many interesting events 
included in the Sketches. And it is but common courtesy to 
acknowledge his high appreciation of the valuable suggestions, 
as well as the frequent expressions of kindness and encourage- 
ment with regard to the enterprise, from individuals whose cha- 
racter and judgment entitle them to considerations of great 
respect. 

In gathering, culling, and preparing the subject-matter for the 
press, many facts and incidents — some of a melancholy and un- 
pleasant nature, and others of no special interest — were cast 
aside, to be lost, perhaps, in the deep ocean of forgetfulness ; 
while those only were retained, which it was thought would prove 
valuable and entertaining, and therefore worthy of a j)lace in 
local history. As the book will not be without readers at a dis- 
tance as well as in Norfolk, Portsmouth, and vicinage, many 
remarks of general interest will be found upon its pages. 

The writer is well assured that he does not mistake the cha- 
racter of his fellow-citizens in other parts of Virginia, in supposing 



PREFACE. XI 

that they feel interested in the history, present condition, and 
prospects of their seaport, and of this productive, and we may 
truly say, interesting and attractive section of the Old Dominion, 
bordering as it does upon the sea, whose blue waves ceaselessly 
break and dash along its beautiful shores. 

The author trusts that an effort to save from oblivion, and 
place in form and order, those occurrences of the past, in which 
many of the present day must feel an interest, will meet with 
the general approbation of the community. He indulges the 
hope, also, that the remarks upon the moral, political, literary, 
and social character of the place, may not be unacceptable to 
the reader. At the conclusion of the volume is a copious alpha- 
betical index, which adds somewhat to its value, as it will be 
found useful for reference. 

In submitting, though not without unfeigned diflSdence, the 
result of his labours to an enlightened and scrutinizing public, 
the writer is constrained to express the hope, that its tendency 
may prove beneficial. And, if his attempt to recall to mind the 
recollection of interesting incidents long past and forgotten ; to 
perpetuate to posterity some pleasing reminiscences of worthy 
men, whose mortal remains repose quietly in the silent tomb, 
shall prove successful, he will not feel that his efforts have been 
entirely in vain. If he shall succeed in "letting a spark fall 
upon memory's altar, and lighting up her slumbering fires" with 
the remembrance of the pleasing and novel occurrences of other 
days ; or in placing fairly and plainly before the public eye, an 
account of the commercial facilities and advantageous local posi- 
tion of the port of Norfolk and Portsmouth ; in arousing to action 
any portion of the native mental or physical energy, that may 
have hitherto been partially dormant and unexercised; in awaken- 
ing a more lively interest in those works of internal improvement 
with which the welfare of Eastern Virginia, and the prospects of 



XU PREFACE. 

this port in particular, are so intimately connected ; or in directing 
attention to any of the various places of interest in the vicinity — 
the works of nature and of art, the noble rivers and winding streams ; 
the pleasant villas and cultivated lands ; the buildings, ancient 
and modern ; the dense old forests, the boundless ocean, and other 
attractive objects — he will not hereafter be troubled with the 
unpleasant reflection that the time and pains which he found in- 
dispensable to the accomplishment of the work, were bestowed, 
without effecting, at least in some degree, the results which were 
intended and anxiously desired. 

W. S. F. 

> 

Norfolk, Va., January, 1853. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Situation — Relative Position — Tlie Harbour — Superior Natural Advantages — 
Early Events and Prospects — Ancient Coin found — Aborigines — Pioneers of 
the Countrj' — The Indians — Their former Home and savage Life — Departure 
and Extermination, ....... 33 



CHAPTER 11. 

Early Anglo-Saxon Inhabitants — .John Smith — First Settlers — Wealth and 
Hospitality — Civilization — Plentiful Productions of the Country — Names of 
early Inhabitants — Pteign of James I. — -^Manners and Customs of the old 
English Settlers — General Character — Habits and Amusements — Charles II. 
— English Nobility — Manners of the People— Fondness for Sport and Plea- 
sure—Intoxicating Drinks — Industry, Morality, Religion, Aristocracy — The 
Ladies, their Industry, Activity, Healthfulness, and Admirable Character — 
Descendants, ........ 39 



CHAPTER III. 

1650—1736. 

Remarks relative to the name of the City, &c. — Colonel Thorogood— Original 
Limits of Norfolk County — Upper and Lower Norfolk — Divisions and Subdivi- 
sions — Parishes, Churches, and Laws — Nansemond and Princess Anne Coun- 
ties — The Princess of Denmark — Seat of Justice in Princess Anne County — 
Court-house and Jail of Norfolk County, and the Borough — Early Owners of 
the Site of Norfolk — Act of Assembly— Cobham — Singular Provisions — The 
Land Purchased by Trustees — Original Limits of the Town — Old Deed — The 
Walke Family — Norfolk established a Town — Increasing Commerce and Popu- 
lation — Prospect of Advancement — Statement of Colonel Byrd — The Bo- 
rough Charter — Samuel Boush and other Officers of the Corporation — 
Boundaries — City Limits — Tanner's Creek — Town Bridge — Extract from 
the Virginia Gazette — First Council, Recorder, &c. — The first Mayor — 
Other Charter-men and their Descendants, .... 44 

1 



xiv CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 

1736—1739. 

Distinct Classes of Society — Effect of War — Political Agitation — Changes — 
Slow Movements — Style of Architecture — Flourishing Commerce — Sports — 
Fairs — Greased Pole — Pig Chase — Sack Races — Empty Hogshead Affair 
— Hot Mush — Bull-bait — Old St. Paul's — The Grounds Improved — Church 
Street — Diabolical Plot — The Old Graveyard, and its Silent Occupants, 56 

CHAPTER V. 

1746—1765. 

Celebration of the Defeat of the Pretender — Privileges of the Borough enlarged 
— Court-house and Prison — Act of Assembly relative to Ferries — Talbot Street 
— Captain Talbot's Property — Foot-bridge — Graveyard — Human Bones — 
Reflections, ........ 65 

CHAPTER VI. 

1766—1768. 

Protest of the People against the Stamp Act — The Sons of Liberty, and their 
Patriotic Proceedings — Members' Names — Descendants — Imports of Virginia 
— A Curiosity — The Revolution and its Calamities, . . .68 

CHAPTER VII. 
1775—1776. 

Lord Dunmore — Preparations for War — The Battle of the Great Bridge — 
Glorious Victory — Heroism and Generosity of the Virginians — Miss Polly 
Miller— Officers, &c., who were in the Battle at the Bridge, . . 74 

CHAPTER VIII. 

1776. 

Sufferings of Captain Nash and other Revolutionary Patriots— Lord Dunmore on 



CONTENTS. XV 

Shipboard — Colonel Woodford — Dunmore's Rage, Arrogance, and Threats — 
Tories and Slaves — Their Miserable Condition — Norfolk Cannonaded — Mis- 
statements Corrected — Cornstalk, the Sharpshooter — The Town Burned by 
the Citizens and Soldiers — Woodford Fires upon the British Fleet — Awful 
Conflagration — Patriotism — Battles — A Sad Contrast — Loss and Distress — 
The Site of Norfolk Abandoned, and the Silence of Gloomy Depopulation 
Reigns, ........ 79 



CHAPTER IX. 

1776—1777. 

British Fleet and Soldiers — Pastimes and Depredations — Dunmore's Departure 
. — Removal of the Citizens before the Conflagration — Their Spirit and Forti- 
tude — Tories — Coloured Persons — Small-pox — Dreadful Suffering and Mor- 
tality — Money Buried — Mr. Goodchild's Trunk of Specie, &c. — First House 
Erected after the Conflagration — Return of the Inhabitants — Privations of 
the People — Dunmore, ...... 86 



CHAPTER X. 

1779—1785. 

Extraordinary Winter — The Two Schooners from the West Indies — Harbour 
Closed — Immense Profits — Destitution of the Citizens — Trying Times — 
Borough Charter Amended — Mild Winter — Norfolk Improving — Rev. Philip 
Bruce — Very High Tide — Extraordinary Drought — Terrific Thunder and 
Lightning — Scarcity of Water — Animals and Vegetation Suffering — Alarm- 
ing Day — Terrific Explosion — Negro Men Killed — Providential Escapes — 
The Merchant's Clerk, the Countryman, and the Gimlet — Money Raised by 
Lottery for Building a Church, . . . . .90 



CHAPTER XL 

1787—1799. 

Dismal Swamp Canal — Importance of its Trade — Judicious Management — 
Average of Tolls — Captain James Cornick — Location of the Canal — An Emi- 
nent Subscriber to the Stock — Borough Charter Amended — Tardy Legislation 
— Newspaper — Religious Revival — Cape Henry Light-house — Court-house — 
Population — Exports — Norfolk Herald — T. G. Broughton, Esq. — Heavy Ex- 
ports and Tonnage of the Borough — Cold Weather — Extensive Fire, 97 



XVI CONTENT S. 

CHAPTER XII. 

1800—1803. 

Severe "Winter — Act of Assembly — Funeral Solemnities of Washington — Ora- 
tion—Monody — Minute Guns, &c. — Population — Officers of the Corporation 
— Exports — Population Rapidly Increasing — Norfolk Advancing — Influx of 
Foreigners — Brisk Business — Shipping — Buildings on Main Street, &c. — 
Mud and Water — Dust, Frogs, and ^lusquitoes — Church Street — Ship-yards 
—Rev. Mr. Bland and Old St. Paul's— Rev. J. Whitehead— Difl"erent Chris- 
tian Denominations, and their Houses of AVorship — Cumbei'land Street Bap- 
tist Church — Number of Buildings — Simmons's Directory — Chamber of Com- 
merce — Members' Names — Norfolk Junior Volunteers — The Council — 
Amendment of the Charter, ...... 102 

CHAPTER XIII. 

1803—1812. 

William Wirt — Letters, &c. — Norfolk Academy Incorporated, Trustees — An- 
nual Exports and Imports — Prosperous Condition of the Borough — Com- 
mercial Advantages — Agriculture — Extensive Fire — Heavy Losses — Distress 
and Deaths — ^larket-House — River-side — Parade Ground — Taxes, &c. — 
Expenditures of the Corporation — Large Bill for Gunpowder — The Poet 
Moore — Shocking Tragedy — Comparative Statement — Norfolk People — Fo- 
reign Trade — Merchants — Commerce — Streets and Houses Labelled— Act of 
Assembly relative to Paving the Streets — The Harbour filled with Vessels 
— Immense Business — Transient People — Brilliant Prospects — Norfolk Mer- 
chants — Pennock and Myers — Norfolk Bar — Chesapeake Afi'air — Embargo — 
Ruinous Effects upon Commerce — Embargo Law Repealed— Mechanical Be- 
nevolent Society — Places of Amusement — Public Gardens, Parks, and Groves 
— Back Creek — Street Lamps — Solemn Funeral Procession — Burning of the 
Theatx-e at Richmond — Soldier Sentenced to be Shot, . . 110 

CHAPTER XIV. 
1813. 

War Declared — Wai-like Preparations — Battle of Craney Island — Enemy's 
Fleet and Troops — Dreadful Execution of our Guns — Shameful Depredations 
of the British — Incidents of the Battle — Letter from General R. B. Taylor — 
Extracts from the Herald, ...... 121 



CONTENTS. XVll 

CHAPTER XV. 

1813. 

Anxiety of the Citizens — General Taylor — Fortifications — Forts Tar and Bar- 
bour — 54th Regiment — Lieutenant Broughton — Orders to March to Slaugh- 
ter's Field — Excitement — False Alarm — Sj^irited Remarks of the Herald — 
Excitement Increased — Mr. Broughton's Statement — The Independents — 
54th Regiment — Juniors — Artillery — Admiral Cochrane — Militia — Effect of 
the Repulse at the Island, ...... 127 

CHAPTER XVI. 

1813—1814. 

General Taylor — Officers, &c., of the Army — Colonel Sharp — Major Camp — 
Lieutenant Ferguson — Captain Capron — Major Maurice, Colonel McConico, 
Captain Shields, &c. — Parade Grounds — Lieutenant Ball Assassinated — 
Arrest — Trial and Conviction of a Sentinel — Schooner Tartar — Princess 
Anne Militia — British Squadi*on — General Parker — Midshipman Hall Killed, 

133 

CHAPTER XVII. 
1814—1815. 

Market-house, &c.. Destroyed by Fire — Carelessness — Inefficiency of Means in 
Extinguishing Fires — AVant of System, Energy, and Engines — Prices Current 
— Dr. Slaughter's Will — Legacies — Colonel Nivison — Philip R. Thomson, Esq. 
— His Honourable and Generous Conduct — The Slaughter Fund — American 
Beacon — Its Founders and Editors — Destruction of the Office by Fire — Con- 
test for the Re-issue, &c., ...... 141 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

1816—1819. 

Female Orphan Asylum — Its Founder and Conductors — Its Utility — Buildings 
— Male Orphan Asylum Wanted — Manual Labour School — Neglected Child- 
hood — First Sabbath School in Norfolk — 'Union School — Separation — The 
Sabbath School Cause — Miss M. Tucker — Council — Marine Society — Ward 
and General Ticket System Compared — Improvements — Stone Bridge — 

2 



XVlll CONTENTS. 

Tobacco Warehouse — Mayor Holt — Lancasterian School — Tobacco Inspec- 
tion—Norfolk Provident Society — Its Object, Utility, &c. — Act of Assembly — 
Custom House Lot — The Trip to Baltimore — The Bay Line — Steamer North 
Carolina — Wonder Booker — Longevity, .... 14G 



CHAPTER XIX. 

1820—1821. 

Navigation Act — Trade of the West Indies — Commercial Distress — United 
States Bank — Colonization Society — Brutal Murder of Lagaudette — Startling 
Discovery — Arrest, Trial, Conviction, and Execution of the Murderers — 
Exciting Scene at the Gallows — ^Bungling Work — The Murderers and their 
Victim — Thieves — Highway Robbei'y — Awful Thunder Storm — A Gloomy 
Year^Sickness — Terrific Hurricane — The Great September Gale— High 
Tide — Effects of the Storm — Booth— Day of Humiliation and Prayer — Public 
Meeting — Navigation Law — Trade of the West Indies Declining, . 156 

CHAPTER XX. 

1821—1824. 

Team Ferry Boat— Steamboats — Reduction of Ferriage— Privileges — Acts of 
Assembly — Receipts — Competition Needed — Improper Restrictions — Draw- 
bridge — Strange and Alarming Light — Painful Event — Loss of Life — Death 
of Rev. E. M. Lowe — Arrival via Dismal Swamp Canal — Lamented Deaths — 
City Inspector, . . . . . . .161 

CHAPTER XXI. 

1824. 

Illustrious Guest — Lafayette's Visit to the Borough — The News Circulated 

People from the Country, &c. — Excitement— Anxiety to see the Old Hero — 
Patriotism— Surprise of the Simple-minded- The Reception— Entertainment 
— Illumination — Portsmouth — Bonfires— Grand Banquet — Ball in Portsmouth 
— Ball in Norfolk— Congress — The Nation's Gratitude and Joy— His Charac- 
ter — His Errand— Services in Liberty's Cause— Subsequent Visit, . 164 

CHAPTER XXII. 

1824—1827. 

Lieutenant G. — Shipwreck — His Wife and Child — AflFecting Scene — Sudden and 



CONTENTS. XIX 

Singular Death — Mrs. G. — Fire — Court-House and Jail Destroyed — Mr. 
Taylor and Dr. Slaughter — Court-House — Storm — High Tide — Destruction 
of Property — New Burying-Ground — Legacy of Elizabeth Crommeline — Ex- 
ports — Non-intercourse Laws — Mr. Tazewell — General Smith — Trade De- 
clining — Destructive Fire — Christ Church, &c., Burned — Loss and Distress — 
Countryman Frightened — Reports the Town on Fire — Ordinance concerning 
the Erection of Wooden Buildings — Lyceum — Its Name — Aristotle's School 
— Odd Fellows' Hall — Lancasterian School-Room — Interments in St. Paul's 
Graveyard Prohibited — Mild and Unseasonable Weather, . . 170 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

1828. 

Dry Dock at Gosport — Summer Days in Midwinter — Vegetables, Flowers, and 
Birds — Melancholy Accident and Loss of Life — Three Midshipmen Drowned 
— Mr. Hunter's Fortitude, &c. — Snow — Ordinance concerning Fire-wood — 
Suggestion — Prices — Christ Church — Ministrations — Present Pastor — The 
Clock — Original Plan — Present Condition — Bell, . . . 175 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

1828. 

Religious Revival — Lieutenant in the U. S. Army enters the Ministry — Talents 
— Preaches in Uniform — The People go in Crowds to Hear Him — Descrip- 
tion of a Camp Meeting Scene — The Young Preacher — Solemn and Impres- 
sive Devotions — Extraordinary Sermon — The Preacher's Style, Subject, &c. 
— Thrilling Interest and Wonderful Effect — Exciting Scene — The Preacher 
Overcome — Revivals — Melancholy Statement — Pastor of St. Paul's, New 
York — Other Preachers — Panny Baker — His Success and Usefulness — Affect- 
ing Scene — His Death — Presidents — Professors, Editors, &c. — Appropriate 
Work of Methodist Ministers — Methodism — Principles of Truth do not Change 
— Men Change — Reformation, ..... 179 



CHAPTER XXV. 

1828—1832. 

Dismal Swamp Canal — Methodist Protestant Church — Naval Hospital — Snow- 
storm — Population — Dr. M'Alpine — Cold Weather — Anniversary Celebra- 
tioa — Procession — Interesting Display — Oration, &c. — Strange Solar Ap- 



XX CONTENT S. 

pearance — Insurrection in Southampton — Its Effect — Increasing Commerce 
- — Mayor — Singular AVeather — The Cholera — Death of the Mayor — Death of 
John Tunis, Esq. — His Enterprise, &c. — Philanthropic Remark — Benevolent 
Idea — Reflections — Riches — Dr. Johnson — Utility of Poverty — Old Methodist 
Church Taken Down — New Building Dedicated — Dr. William A. Smith, 190 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

1833—1836. 

Public Square — Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad Company — Extensive Fire — 
New Buildings — Meteoric Phenomenon — Citizens alarmed — Railroad Stock 
— Roanoke Navigation Company — City Debt — Railroad Bill passed — Demon- 
strations of Joy — Sabbath Desecration— Commercial Prosperity— Great Guns 
and Fireworks— Failure of the Road — Rebuilding of the Road, and its Pros- 
pects—Death of General R. B. Taylor — City Inspector — Earthquake — Back 
Creek— Shipping— Cold Weather- St. Paul's Cemetery— Religious Revival— 
Almshouse — Another Railroad Subscription, .... 196 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

1836. 

Centenary of the Borough Charter — Reflections — Centennial Celebration — 
Procession — Mace — Oration by AVm. Maxwell, Esq. — Hymn — Aquatic Ex- 
cursion — Fireworks — Serenade — Reflections, .... 200 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

1836—1840. 

Presbyterian Church — New Organization — Ministers — Services — Membership — 
Prices Current — Fire — Distinguished Visiter from France — Pleasing Incident 
— French's Hotel — Important Commercial Era — Unwise Legislation — Lieu- 
tenant Maury's Statement — Ocean Steam Navigation — What Norfolk might 
have Done — Real Estate — Exploring Squadron — Commercial Convention — 
Common Council — Destructive Fire — Explosion — Fire in Portsmouth — Loss 
of Life — Nuisance Removed — Public Square — Buildings — Avon Theatre — 
City Prison— Norfolk Academy — C. Hall, Esq. — Academy Square— Character 
of the Institution — The Norfolk and Portsmouth Herald, . . 200 



CONTENTS. XXI 

CHAPTER XXIX. 
1840—1844. 

Commercial Depression — Politics — Prices Current — Population — High Tides — 
Festivities — General Harrison — Fire — Hailstorm — Walters's Hotel — Judi- 
cious Management — Fire, and Loss of Life — Roman Catholic Church — Bap- 
tist Church in Portsmouth — Death of one of the Heroes of Craney Island — 
Death of an Old Citizen — ^Nlayor Delany — Artesian Well, alias Market Square 
Pump — Cisterns — C. Bonsall, Esq. — Supply of AVater from Deep Creek- 
Arrival of Henry Clay — Procession — Festivities — Speeches — Colonel Garnett 
— The Ladies — Joseph H. Robertson, Esq. — Governor Tazewell — Mr. Clay's 
Visit to Portsmouth — The Courier — Caterpillars, . . . 214 

CHAPTER XXX. 

1845—1847. 

Norfolk becomes a City — Objections — Improvement — Effect of a Name — Con- 
gratulations of the Petersburg Intelligencer — Lynnhaven Oysters — Concho- 
logy, Ichthyology, &c. — Richmond Times and Compiler — Kind Remarks — 
Sources of Prosperity — Amendments to the Charter — Evidences of Advance- 
ment — Court-House in Portsmouth — Methodist Protestant Church Burned 
— Animal Magnetism — Professor De Bonneville — Severe Storm — Extraordi- 
nary Tide — Destruction of Property — Exciting Scene — Loss of Property on 
the Coast — Lame Boy, Dog, and Cat — Loss of Life — Distressing Scene — 
Sabbath-School Celebration — Interesting Sight — The Ladies— Addresses — 
Temperance Reformation — John B. Gough — Remarks — Mexican War — 
Volunteers — Captain John P. Young — Captain 0. E. Edwards, . 220 

CHAPTER XXXI. 
1847. 

Destructive Fire — Frightful Accident — Boys Burnt — Suffering and Death — 
Rev. Mr. Beall — Marble Tablet — Virginia Temijerance Advocate — Grain 
Business — High Prices — Unseasonable AVeather — Fish — Moonlight Excur- 
sions — Prices of Grain — Rev. Mr. Anderson — Indian Corn — Demand from 
Ireland — Shipments — Sabbath-school Celebration — Rev. Mr. Cummins — 
U. S. Ship Pennsylvania — Grain and Corn — Death of Colonel Newton — Death 
of Dr. Moseley — City Hall — Corner Stone — Ceremonies — Oration — Rev. Mr. 
Hitselberger — New Orphan Asylum — View of the Old Church at Jamestown 
— Gift of the Norfolk Ladies — Public Buildings — Streets Paved — Spirit of 
Improvement — Beacon Office Destroyed — Snow and Thunder, . 230 



XXn CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

1848—1849. 

Southern Argus — Its Peculiarities — Remarks of Bulwer — Methodist Church 
Destroyed — Destructive Conflagration — Sulfering — Insurance — Bethel 
Church, &c. — Philharmonic Association — Youthful Heroism — Narrow Es- 
cape from Drowning— Captain Hamilton L. Shields, U. S. A. — Captain Ed- 
ward H. Fitzgerald, U. S. A. — New Baptist Church — California — Reflections 
— Visiters — Internal Improvements — Cumberland Street Methodist Epis- 
copal Church — Unsuitable Location— General INIillson — The Cholera — Nor- 
folk Female Institute — Dr. Selden — Gas-Works — New Buildings — City Reve- 
nue — Death of M. King, Esq. ..... 23G 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

1850. 

Internal Improvement Meeting — Delegation from Clarksville— David Shelton, 
Esq. — Doctor Wilson — Extracts from Interesting Letters — Unseasonable 
Weather — Launch of the Powhatan — Engines — The Gosport Iron Works — 
Norfolk Iron Works — Mechanics' Hall — Its Utility, &c. — Avon Theatre De- 
stroyed — Fire in Portsmouth — Cadets of the Virginia Military Institute — 
Their Visit to Norfolk, &c. — Acknowledgments— Snow-Storm — General Scott 
- — Fire in Gosport — Fruit, Vegetables, &c. — Farms — New City Hall — Loca- 
tion — Architecture — Dimensions — View — New Baptist Church — Description 
— Ashland Hall — Drought and Warm Weather . . . 247 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

1850. 

Steam-Packet Communication — Foreign Trade— Convention at Old Point- 
Sad Intelligence — Death of the President of the United States — Funeral Ob- 
sequies — Oppressive Weather — Tornado — Hon. Henry A. Wise — Internal 
Improvements — Canal from Norfolk to Albemarle Sound — Surveys — Mrs. 
Mary B. Johnston — Survey of the Harbour — Stone Wall — New Custom 
House — Powder Magazine — Church Street Paved — Its Former Condition — 
Advance in the Price of Property — Dry Weather— Doctor Mallory appointed 
Navy Agent — His Qualifications — George Loyall, Esq. — Colonel Garnett ap- 
pointed Collector of the Port — Conway AVhittle, Esq. — Seaboard and Roanoke 
Railroad — Extension to Sufi"olk — Its Completion to Weldon . . 258 



CONTENTS. XXm 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

1850. 

New Methodist Episcopal Church — Description of the Building — Workmen — 
Pew System — Seating of a Congregation — Pews and Free Seats — Dedication 
— Rev. J. E. Edwards — Membership — Dr. Doggett — Quarterly Review — La- 
belling the Streets and Houses— Census, .... 267 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

1851. 

The Daily News — The Weather — Deaths — Caleb Bonsai, Esq. — Commodore 
Barron — The Chesapeake Affair — Decatur — Correspondence — Commodore 
Bainbridge — Capt. Elliot — The Duel — Barron severely Wounded — Decatur 
Killed — Commodore B.'s Social and Official Character — Death of a Venerable 
Lady — Simon S. Stubs, Esq., elected Mayor — Description of his Honour — Visit 
of President Fillmore — Gale — The Norfolk Directory and Statistical Register 
— Its Kind Reception — Acknowledgments — Encouragements — Its Utility — 
Opinions Respecting Norfolk — Erroneous Impressions Corrected — Notice of 
the Work — Death of an Old Citizen — Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad — 
Severely Cold Weather — Fire-wood — Skating — Mineral Springs, . 271 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

1852. 

Ordinance — Virginia Bank in Portsmouth Robbed — Conviction and Sentence of 
one of the Robbers — Cold AVeather — River Frozen Over — Remarkable Hail- * 
storm — Destructive Effects — Work on Internal Improvements, &c. — Judge 
Baker — Clerk of Court — Commissioner of Revenue — Commonwealth's Attor- 
ney — Wm. T. Hendren, Esq. — Internal Improvement Meeting — Norfolk and 
Petersburg Road — Able Discussion — Mayoralty — Candidates — Election of 
Officers— Objectionable Feature in the Law — City Officers— Councils — Me- 
lancholy Intelligence— Death of Henry Clay — Funeral Obsequies— Proces- 
sion— Oration— The Weather— Death of the Oldest White Inhabitant— New 
Catholic Church in Portsmouth— Patrick Robinson's Bequest — Death of 
Billy Ingram, the Oldest Coloured Inhabitant— Incidents in His Life — His 
Great Physical Strength — Coincidence — Corporation Scrip, in Sums of §100, 
§50, and $1— Intelligence of the Death of Webster— Wm. B. Lamb, Esq.— 
Doctor Cowdery — Illumination, &c. — Agricultural Fair — Commendable Dis- 
play of Agricultural Productions — Premiums — Princess Anne County — Bri- 
tish Consul — Line of Packets to New York — Railroad Subscription, . 284 



XXIV CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

Opinions respecting Norfolk — Mr. JeflFerson's Prediction — Views of Mr. Madison 
— Unwise Legislation — Internal Improvement — .James River and Kanawha 
Canal — Products of the West — The Norfolk Market— Productions of the 
Forest — Coal — Railway to the Pacific — Norfolk the Commercial Centre of a 
lai'ge Extent of Country — Coasting Business — The Harbour — The Norfolk 
and Petersburg Railroad — Its advantages — Surveyor's Report — Convention 
at Union — New Orleans and Memphis Road — Norfolk the Atlantic Terminus 
— China and East India Trade — The Consequences — Weldon and Gaston, 
and Clarksville and Ridgway Roads — Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad — 
Subscriptions by the City — Arrangements of the Company with the City — 
Ferry and Bridge Connexion — Trade — City Subscription — Baltimore Steam 
Packet Company — Wilmington and Manchester Road — North Carolina Road — 
Charlotte and Columbia Road, &c. — Continuous Lines fi-om Norfolk — Enter- 
prising Men Wanted — Enterprise and Progress — Supineness, Neglect, and 
the Downward Tendency, ...... 296 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Commercial Position — Why Norfolk has not advanced more rapidly — Other 
Cities — Norfolk and Boston — Virginia and Massachusetts— Formerly Flou- 
rishing Commerce of Virginia — Norfolk AVaking Up — Internal Improvements 
— Obstructions must be removed — Produce must find an Outlet at this Port 
— Means of Access — Products of Virginia, North Carolina, &c. — Improvement 
apparent in Norfolk — Back Country — Land in the Vicinity — Centralizing 
Action — AVestern Trade— Railroads, Steam-Packet Lines, &c. — Effect upon 
the Commerce of the State — Erroneous Impressions relative to the Storage 
of Tobacco — Adaptation of the Climate to its Preservation proved — Testi- 
mony of the Merchants — The Climate of Norfolk — Warehouses — Inspectors 
—Merchants — Flour, AVheat, &c. — Means of Access, . . 304 



CHAPTER XL. 

Lieutenant Maury— Natural Advantages of Norfolk— Back Country— Supine- 
ness of the State— The South— Trade of the Amazon Valley— Line of Steamers 
from Norfolk, &c.— Para— Clipper Ships— The Wharves of Norfolk— Advan- 
tages of the Port— Trade of the West Indies and South America— A. W. 
Thompson's Scheme— Line of Steamers from Norfolk to Antwerp, &c.— Mr. 
Thompson's Propositions — Prospective Benefits — Advantages offered by 
Belgium— Opinions respecting the enterprise— Statements of Mr. Wheeler, 

815 



CONTENTS. XXV 



CHAPTER XLL 

General Appearance of the City — Buildings — Streets, Gardens, Flowers, &c. — 
New Baptist Church — Pleasing View — Public Buildings, &c. — Relative Po- 
sition — Academy — Christ Church— St. Paul's — Eastern Branch — Herberts- 
ville — St. Patrick's Church — Presbyterian Church — Baptist Church — Me- 
thodist Episcopal Church — Marine Hospital — Mechanics' Hall — Southern 
Branch — Navy Yard — City Hall — Portsmouth — Naval Hospital — New ^letho- 
dist Episcopal Church — Elizabeth River — War Steamers — Craney Island — 
African Churches — Almshouse — Cemeteries — Cotton Factory — Background 
— Wooded Lands — Norfolk in 18-52 — The Situation — Climate — Atmosphere — 
Norfolk Sunsets — Descriptions — Sunset Scene, by Charles H. Beale, Esq. 
— Appearance of the City and River from the Outer Harbour — Beautiful 
Scenei'y — Location — Productions of the Water, Forests, Fields, and Gardens 
— The Soil and its Capacity — Grain, Vegetables, Fruit, &c. — Grapes — Land 
—Sites for Farms, ..... . . 322 



CHAPTER XLII. 

Healthfulness of Norfolk — The Climate — Erroneous Impressions — Sickness 
during the War — Malignant Fevers — The Army here in 1813 — Causes of 
Sickness and Mortality — Exposure, change of Diet, Climate, &c. — Intempe- 
rance — The Cold Plague — Measles — Dysentery — Bilious — Inexperienced Phy- 
sicians — Venesection — Injudicious and Fatal Treatment — Calomel — Opium — 
Water — Clothing — Attendance — Inexperienced Officers — The Citizens — En- 
dearments of Home — Fever in 1821 and '26 — "British Spy" — Erroneous 
Statements — Buffon's Strange Theory — Norfolk on a high Mountain — Sick- 
ness in 1852 — Injurious Reports— ^Comparative Statements — Charleston — 
Average Mortality — Healthful Effects of the Climate — Comparative Table — 
Coloured Population — Statement of Diseases and Deaths — The Cholera — 
Longevity — Conclusive Proof, ..... 331 



CHAPTER XLIIL 

Buildings — Sites for Farms — Excursions to Old Point, &c. — The Ladies — Their 
Beauty, &c. — Attachment of the Citizens to the Place — Hospitality — Intelli- 
gence — Morals — Sabbath Schools — Mechanics — Churches — Order — Sunday 
Markets — The Sabbath — Its Violation — Should be kept Holy — The Appoint- 
ment Necessary to Man — Its Enemies — Its Services, . . 339 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

Commercial Facilities — The Navigation — The U. S. Ship Pennsylvania — The 



^(i 



XXVI CONTENTS. 

Harbour — Streets, &c. — Wharves — Public Buildings — Churches, Banks, 
Schools, Papers, &c. — Companies and Societies — Packet Lines — Marine 
Railways — Manufactories — Wealth, Usefulness, and Influence — Merchants, 
Warehouses, Capital — Commercial Experience and Ability — Improvement — 
Railroads, Steamships, &c. — Commercial Advancement, . . 343 



CHAPTER XLV. 

Talent and Literary Taste — Light Reading — Cheap Literature — Its Injurious 
Tendency — Evidences of Literary Capacity — Literary AVorks — Mr. Max-well's 
Poems — Letters by a South Carolinian — H. B. Grigsby, Esq. — Dr. Alexander 
Whitehead, an Accomplished Teacher and Scholar — Beautiful Inscription 
— C. A. Rodney — Thomas Blanchard — His Ode on the Death of Washington 
— "Rosehill," by a Virginian — Poems by Quilp — "I Hear thy Voice" — " A 
Child's Burial," ....... 34G 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

Ladies of Talent — Contributions to the Press — The Female INiind and Poetry — 
"Dreaming," by Fanny Fielding — Extracts from the writings of another — 
Nature's Teachings — The Phantom, ..... 354 



CHAPTER XLVII. 

Poetic Pieces, by A. F. Leonard — Song of the Emigrants — Ode to Solitude 
— Byron Walthall — The Stag Hunter — R. James Keeling — Song to the 
Sea Wave — Old Settlers' Church at Jamestown — W. W. Davis — Lucubrations 
— The Hopes of Love — S. S. Dawes — Tribute to Mr. Clay — An Hour among 
the Flowers, ....... 361 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

Other Specimens — Original MSS. — Literary Taste in Norfolk, &c. — Composi- 
tion by a Lady — Interesting Subject — Beautiful Sketch — Seminole War- 
Burial of the Soldiers — Funeral Solemnities — Beautiful Specimens of Pen- 
manship — The Author — The Burial of the Gallant Dead — Solemn Occasion — 
The Indians, and their "Flowery Home" — Exhumation of the Dead in the 
Wilderness — Procession — The March in the Wilderness — Dade's Massacre — 
Indian Warfare, and their Deadly Hate — The Soldier's melancholy Fate 
— Impressive Funeral Obsequies — -Military and Civic Honours — -Burial 
Place — Reminiscences — The Soldier's Rest— Prayer of a Presbyterian Mi- 
nister — Eloquent Eulogy of a Catholic Priest — Reinterment and Solemn 
Closing Scene — Music among the Tombs at Midnight, . . 373 



CONTENTS. XXVll 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

Conductors of the Press in the City— The Editor's Task a Difficult One— Re- 
sponsibility and Usefulness— Editorial Character— Editors of the Daily 
Papers of Norfolk and Portsmouth— Francis H. Smith— Captain Thomas H. 
Williamson — The Different Professions — Ex-Governor Tazewell— Form and 
Motion — Countenance — His Mind — Oratory — Astonishing Power of His Elo- 
quence—His Manner — Indifference to Forensic Fame — His Political Princi- 
ples—Compared withPinkney— Pinkney's Violent Style— His Mind— Exalted 
Talents of these Two Distinguished Men— Mr. Tazewell at the Present Day 
—Intellectual Faculties Unimpaired— General Information, and Readiness 
to Communicate— Intellectual Superiority— Able Original Papers— Varied 
Intelligence, ....•••• ^^-^ 



CHAPTER L. 

/ General R. B. Taylor— Eloquence and Success as a Jurist — Extraordinary 
Powers of Oratory— Graphic Description by a Norfolk Writer — Address to 
Lafayette at Yorktown — Choice of Virginia — Deportment, Manners, Elo- 
quence, and Military Feeling— Graces of Oratory— Effect upon a Jury- 
Passion — His Excursions in the Regions of the Beautiful — Indefatigable and 
Studious Devotion to his Professions — Example — Productions of his Pen — 
Politics— Chosen to Command the Troops at Norfolk— A Credit to Old Vir- 
ginia — Diligent Improvement of Talent — Relatives, . . 387 



CHAPTER LI. 

'Henry A. Wise, of Accomac— Interest in the Welfare of Norfolk— Efforts 
in Behalf of Internal Improvement Schemes— Intellect— Native Genius- 
Rhetorical Efforts— Style— Power of his Eloquence— Independence— Change 
of Opinions— Description by an Opponent in Politics— His Voice— Generosity 
—Social Excellence— His Person— Countenance— Extract from the Southern 
Literary Messenger— Graphic Description— Style of Speaking— Gestures, 
&c.— Speech in the Virginia Convention— Convincing Power— John C. Wise, 
of Princess Anne County— Political Character of the City— Whigs and Demo- 
crats—Party Strife and Excitement— Peaceable and Forbearing Character 
of the Citizens, ....••• 391 



CHAPTER LII. 

Native Genius— J. H. Whitehurst, of Norfolk, the Virginia Daguerreotypist— 
Extensive Business— Pictures— Energy of Character— Opinions of Others 



XVlll CONTENTS. 

— Morteotype — Sketch of His Parentage, Talents, Progress, &c. — His Pic- 
tures at the Fairs of the Maryland Institute — Premium — His Pictures at the 
World's Fair— His Mind — Inventive Capacity, &c. — Alexander Gait, Jr., of 
this City, the Virginia Sculptor — Descriptive Letter from Florence — Tri- 
umphs of American Artists — Powers — Gait — Greek Beauty — Correspondence 
— Bust of Psyche — Bust of Virginia — Promise of the Young Artist — The 
Bust received in Norfolk — Splendid Specimen — Extract from the Richmond 
Whig — Evidences of Genius in Boyhood — First Effort — Enquirer — Tribute of 
T. C. Tabb, Esq.— Particulars of Gait's Genius— Works, &c.— Other Ta- 
lented Individuals, ....... 395 



CHAPTER LIII. 

Why Norfolk has not Advanced more Rapidly — Internal Communication — 
Sending to the North — Home Manufactures — Direct Trade — Importers — Le- 
gislation — Supineness — Prospects Improving — Signs of the Times — New- 
Sources of Wealth and Enterprise — A Sleeping Giant — The Old Common- 
wealth Arising — Energy — Lethargy — Commercial Position — Climate, &c. — 
California Gold, &c. — Mexicans and Indians — Eastern Splendour — Conse- 
quences of Inactivity — Norfolk Improving — Buildings — Streets — Banking 
Capital— Authorities — Citizens — Public Buildings, . . . 404 



CHAPTER LIV. 

Home Manufactures — Northern Establishments— The South— Boots and Shoes 
— Massachusetts — Farmington, N. H. — Manufacturing Company — Georgia 
and South Carolina — Money Sent to the North — Stoves, Brooms, Hay, Fruit, 
&c. — Mortifying Facts— Clothing — Indigent Females — Flour and Meal — 
Mills— Baltimore, &c. — Profitable Investment— Cotton Goods, Candles, Soap. 
Paper, &c.— Steam Power — Handsome Sites— Extensive Mills, Manufacto- 
ries, and their Concomitants — New England — Agriculture, Manufactures, 
and Commerce — Plough, Loom, and Anvil — Fruit — Hungry Consumers — 
Milk, Butter, &c.— Cause of New England Thriftiness, Wealth, and Happi- 
ness — Enterprise Wanted Here — Norfolk — Progress Elsewhere — Improve- 
ments — Great Works— Railroads — Steamers— Cities in the West — Prosperity 
of the South — Commerce, Shipping, and Products, . . . 408 



CHAPTER LV. 

Coloured Population— Misinformed Fanatics— Condition of the Coloured People 
—Fidelity— Preference for a State of Subjection — Reciprocal Regard of 
Masters and Slaves— Plentiful Fare, Clothing, &c.— Attention, Treatment, 
Intelligence, Ingenuity, &c.— Venerable Old Freed-man— His Benevolence— 



CONTENTS. XXIX 

Ignorance, Superstition, &c., of the Coloured People— Piety— Easy Life— 
Sleeping, Eating, &c.— Contentment— Religious Privileges— Marriage Vows 
—Respect to the Dead— Impressive Funeral Ceremonies— Negro Life in New 
York— Laziness — Lower Classes — Decrease in Numbers — The Diiferent 
Classes— Cow Bay— Five Points— Pigs, Cats, Dogs, Rats, and Children- 
Horrible Condition— Houses— Occupations— Intemperance— Bar-rooms and 
Sleeping Apartments— Cellars and Filth— Idleness and Theft— " Prigging the 
Wipes"— Night Orgies— EfiBuvia— Civic Privileges— Occupation — Frederick 
Douglass— Menial Slavery in New York— How the Blacks kennel together 
like Beasts— Accommodations, Furniture, &c.— Wages— Ragged Chimney 
Sleeps— Pitiable State— The Better Class— Waiters— Private Servants— 
Their Native Home — Colonization Society— Uncle Tom's Cabin — English 
Ladies — Unintentional Result, . • • • . 41< 



CHAPTER LVL 

Portsmouth— Further Observations— View from the Norfolk Side— Act of As- 
sembly Establishing the Town— William Crawford— Wooden Chimneys- 
Directors and Trustees— Advancement— Plan of the Town— Streets— Build- 
ings— Sociality, Hospitality, &c.— Portsmouth in 180G— Trade with the West 
Indies— Advantages — Navy Yard — Dismal Swamp Canal— Intercourse— 
Bridges— Wharves— Merchants— Population — Houses— National Establish- 
ment— Improvements— Mayor and Council— Description of the Site, &c.— 
Harbour— Why the Town has not Advanced more Rapidly— English and 
Scotch Merchants— Revolutionary Spirit— Gosport Iron Works— Manage- 
ment — Position — Capacity, &c., . • • • • ^-^ 



CHAPTER LVIL 

Falls of Niagara— Natural Bridge— Laurel Hill, Harper's Ferry, &c.— Want of 
Curiosity and Interest— Objects of Attraction— Dry Dock— Old Point, Hamp- 
ton, &c.— Seashore— Rivers— Farms, Lands, Flowers, Birds, &c.— The Chesa- 
peake— Princess Anne— Kempsville— Digressions— The Ocean— Roads— Lon- 
don Bridge— Bridge over the Thames— Reminiscences— Legends— Romance 
—Branch of the Lynnhaven— Random Lines— Nature's Music— The Songsters 
of the Field and the Grove— Nature's Harmony— Grave-Yard— Trees— Cur- 
rent— Associations and Recollections of Youth— Local Attachments, 435 



CHAPTER LVIIL 

Incidents of Other Days— Gentleman Waylaid— Desperate Conflict with the 
Highwaymen— The Criminals and the Death Penalty— The Old Store— Un- 
fortunate Inebriate— Notorious Josiah Phillips— Mingo— Capture and Trial 



XXX CONTENTS. 

of the Outlaw — Sentenced to the Penitentiary — Shot on the Road to Norfolk 
— Baptist Church — Preacher — Old School-house — Teaching — Public Schools 
— Martin Luther on Education — Lynnhaven Bay, &c. — Old Eastern Shore 
Chapel — Oaks — Old School-house — Events of the Past — Schoolboy Days — 
Faithful School-master — Scholars — Variety of Talent, Occupation, &c. — Pre- 
mature Deaths — Early Associations — Great Parting Frolic, . . 443 



CHAPTER LIX. 



The Ocean Shore — Sublime Scene — The Music of the Sea — The Minor Key — 
Miserere — The Sea in a Calm — Its Power and Immensity — The Ocean in a 
Storm — The Mountain Waves — Spirits of the Deep Riding on the Billows and 
Howling in the Foam — The Sea Personified — Mariners — Dangers^Perils of 
Ocean — The View from the Land — Sublimity of the Scenery — A Ship at Sea 
— Becalmed — A Storm-cloud Rises — Wind and Ocean at Wai' — The Ship and 
Passengers in Danger — The Ship Engulphed — The Calm — Height, Velocity, 
and Force of the Waves — Distance from Each Other — Irresistible Strength — 
Influence of the Sight — Beautiful Extract — The Sandy and Wave-beaten 
Shore — Reflection of the Light — Sun and Moon — Fiery, Sparkling Gems — 
Mountain Scenei-y — The Boundless Deep, .... 449 



CHAPTER LX. 

Chesapeake Bay — Its Beauty — Discovery — Opinion of Mariners — Delightful 
Trip — Night Scene — Lynnhaven Bay — Lynnhaven River — Fish and Oysters 
—The Inlet— The Channel— The Tides— Bottom— Singular Tradition— The 
River of Chesapeake — Pleasure House Creek — Adam Keeling, Esq. — Dike — 
New Inlet — Branches of the River— London Bridge — Trading Point — Kemps- 
ville — Long Creek — Broad Ba^' — Linkhorn Bay — Fish — Beautiful Scenery — 
Transparent Waters — The Desert and its Inhabitants — Old Fort — Re- 
markable Changes — Church Point — Parish Church Submerged — Grave- 
Yard— Reflections — The Grave-stones — Name Deciphered — Inroads of the 
Water — Probable Causes — The AVinds and Tides — Donation Church — Par- 
son Dixon's Donation — His Eccentricities — The Old Church Dilapidated — 
Ladies' Fair — Remarks of Mr. Broughton — Rev. Anthony AValke — Dick 
Edwards— The Old Cemetery, &c. — Baptismal Font— Silver Goblet — A 
Venerable Trio— Indian Mound or Fort — Blackbeard's Treasures — Witch 
Duck — Complaint of Luke Hill and Wife — Grace Sherwood, the Witch — 
Searched by a Jury of Women — Strange Verdict — Poor Grace Ducked — Sub- 
sequent Difficulties — Graceless Affair — The Name Lynnhaven, . 455 



CONTENTS. xxxi 



CHAPTER LXI. 

Further remarks about Lynnhaven River — Sandbar — Winds — Removal of the Bar 
— Stone Wall — Sound — Speculations — Fresh Water — Rivers, &c. — Fish and 
Oysters— Epicures — Health— Canal— A Novel Change — Currituck Sound — 
The Inlet — Maritime Productions— Fishing — Dismal Swamp Canal — Embank- 
ments of Sand — Destruction of Fish, &c. — Sickness — Lamentable Change — 
Loss to the People — Supei-stitiou — Recession of the Waters — Lynnhaven, 

4G5 



CHAPTER LXII. 

Qld Point — Place of Resort — Distance from Norfolk— The Name — Fortifica- 
tions—Castle Calhoun— Appearance — Rip Raps— Hotel — Sea-Eathing— 
Amusements— Grove — Cottages— Music — Promenade on the Battlement — 
New Hotel — Virginia Ocean House— Buildings— Parade Ground — Live Oaks 
— Troops— Ordnance— Ocean Scenery— Northeaster— Terrific Scene— Storm 
— Hampton — Captain Smith— Indians — Kecoughtan — Battle in the Revolu- 
tion — Attack of the British in 1813— Barbarous Deeds— Disgraceful and In- 
famous Conduct — Cockburn — Beckwith— General Taylor— Summer Resort 
— Hospitality and Moral Character of Hampton— Prosperity— Churches — 
Afton House — The Barrens, &c. — Elizabeth City County— Soil— Inhabi- 
tants — Population — Yorktown— Splendid Scenery — Old Church — Foreign 
Commerce, Wealth, and Power— Neglect— The People— Captain Anderson- 
York River— West Point— The Capital— Cornwallis's Surrender— Cave— 
Burial-Ground— Hugh Nelson— Nelson Family— Hole made by a Cannon-Shot 
— Northampton and Accomac— Eastern Shore — The Land— Appearance of 
the Country— Society, &c. — Horses and Carriages — The Ocean — " Accaw- 
macke" — Indians — Eastville, &c. — Hon. A. P. Upshur — Accomac — Hon. H. 
A. Wise — Drummondtown — Chincoteague — Sj^lendid Scenery — Cape Charles 
— Southern Watering-Place, ...... 468 



CHAPTER LXIII. 

Jamestown — First Settlement in British America— Situation— Old Graveyard 
and Ruins — John Smith— Settlement — Old Church — Battle with the Indians 
— Plan and Fortifications — Destructive Fire — Public Records Destroyed— 

Seat of Government Removed to Williamsburg — Yankee Monopoly The 

Landing of the Pilgrims— AVilliamsburg — Situation — Capital — Population- 
Lunatic Asylum — William and Mary College — Trustees, President, and 
Chancellor— Endowment — Magazine — Dunmore — Statue — Old Buildings — 
Churches, College, Military Academy, &c.— Centre of Fashion and Learning 
— Society — Plan of the Town — Old Almanac, . . . 476 



XXXll CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER LXIV. 

Smithfield — Situation — Beautiful Scenery — Stores and Residences — Shade- 
trees and Gardens — Appearance — Isle of Wight County — Enterprise — Soil — 
Bacon — Smithfield Hams — Brandy — Dried Fruit — Eggs — Poultry — Revenue 
— Suffolk — Situation — Railroad — Churches — Burnt by the British — Fire- 
Trade — Appearance — Hospitality — Branch of the Nansemond — Romantic 
Scenery — Matthews and Gloucester — Lands — Natural Advantages — Society 
— Perennial Charms — Local Attachment — Fair Daughters of the Seques- 
tered Peninsula — New Church — Rev, G. S. Carraway, . . 480 



CHAPTER LXV. 

Interesting Object — Lake Drummond — Hotel — Boundary Line — Connubial 
Parties — Location of the Lake — Dismal Swamp — AVilliam Wirt's Statement — 
Extent — Soil, Trees, &c. — Beasts — ^Undergrowth — Reeds, Vines, &c. — Dismal 
Swamp Canal — Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad — Jericho Canal — Lumber 
Trade — Draining the Swamp — Peat — The Lake — Interesting Scene — Graphic 
Description — The Poet Moore— Love Affair— Touching Lines — Deep Creek — 
Houses — Trade — Inhabitants — Washington Point — St. Helena — Lands — 
U. S. Government Buildings — Concluding Remarks, . . 483 



HISTORY OF NORFOLK 

AND VICINITY. 



CHAPTER I. 

Situation — Relative Position — The Harbour — Superior Natural Advantages — 
Early Events and Prospects — Ancient Coin foauad — xVborigines — Pioneers of 
the Country — The Indians — Their former Home and savage Life — Departure 
and Extermination. 

Norfolk, the principal seaport town of Virginia, is situated 
in the northern part of Norfolk County, on the north side of the 
Elizabeth River, at the mouth of its eastern branch, and imme- 
diately opposite Portsmouth, and the confluence of the southern 
branch.* 

The present site of the city is a small, level peninsula, or neck 
of land, of about eight hundred acres, with the wide, blue river 
on the south and southwest, Smith's Creek on the northwest, 
and Newton's Creek on the east. This city is near the south- 
eastern extremity of the State, in latitude 36° 50' 50" ; longitude, 
west from Greenwich, 76^ 18' 47", and east from Washington, 
0° 42' 43" (taken at the Farmers'' Bank, corner of Main and 
Bank Streets). It is situate about two hundred miles from the 
Blue Ridge, and thirty-five northwest of the point at which the 
boundary line of Virginia and North Carolina intersects the 
coast of the Atlantic. Norfolk is distant from Boston (by sea) 
about 600 miles ; from New York (by sea), 300 miles ; from 

"^ The first four paragraphs are inserted in the Norfolk Directory, having 
been taken from the manuscript of this work. 

3 



34 H I S T R I C A L A N D 

Pliilaclelpliia (by sea), 270 ; from Washington, 190 ; from Balti- 
more, 180 ; New Orleans, 1300 ; Charleston, 350 ; Wilmington, 
N. C, 240 ; Richmond, 140 ; from the Mississippi River, 700 ; 
Hampton Roads, only 8 miles ; and it is almost within hearing 
of the deep-toned roar of the ocean. 

The relative position of the place is exceedingly favom^able. 
For all the various purposes of trade and commerce, both foreign 
and domestic, the port of Norfolk and Portsmouth stands almost 
unrivalled. _, 

With regard to the means of navigation, and other indispen- 
sable requisites for commercial advancement. Nature performed 
her part most admirably and generously for this location : 
surely more could not be reasonably asked of her lavish hand. 
The harbour, always open, is sufficiently deep and spacious to float 
and accommodate with ample room and perfect safety the com- 
bined navies of the world. It is situate about the middle of the 
whole vast extent of our Atlantic sea-coast, — the nearest and most 
convenient location for the depot and shipment of the incalcu- 
lable wealth of the interior of Virginia and North Carolina, and, 
in fact, of a large portion of the great West, — in convenient 
proximity not only to the ocean, and the bold and beautiful 
Chesapeake, but also to rivers, deep and wide, that wash and 
drain some of the most productive portions of the Union, — Avith 
a climate almost always pleasant and remarkably salubrious, and 
which is seldom uncomfortably warm in summer, and rarely too 
cold in winter. Indeed, when the peculiar and superior natural 
advantages of Norfolk and of the sister town on the opposite 
side of the river are considered, it must be admitted that these 
places should long since have been numbered among the principal 
cities of the Union, or that the two, united as one, should now 
be known as the great commercial emporium of the South, if 
not of the United States. 

A somewhat extended account of the present appearance, 
condition, and progress of the city will be presented in another 
part of this work ; — the evidences of its growth, indications of 
future importance, &c., as well as some reasons why it does not 
now rival the great commercial marts of the Union. This will 
be given after we shall have viewed the picture from a distant 



DESCRIPTIVE S K E T C II E S. 35 

point, and glanced at the early events, and changing scenes, and 
bright prospects, and blasted hopes, of years long past and gone. 

It is not essential, and perhaps it will be deemed quite unne- 
cessary, to attempt here to look farther back into the deep, dim 
vista of receding ages, than to the time of the first settlers of 
this section of country ; yet it may not be entirely inappropriate 
to allude to a circumstance, which, how trifling soever it may 
appear to some, will serve at least to elicit a train of thought or 
some vague association of ideas respecting those beings who 
appeared upon the stage of life, and then receded from view, 
long centuries ago, at or near this particular spot on the eastern 
border of the Western Continent. 

While some men were boring for water, on the opposite side of 
the Elizabeth, as late as September, 1833, a coin was drawn up 
from a depth of nearly thirty feet. It was about the size of an 
English shilling, of an oval shape, and unlike anything of the 
kind ever seen here before by the " oldest inhabitant." Although 
it had remained embedded thus fiir below the surface of the 
earth perhaps for many centuries, the figures upon it were still 
plainly and distinctly marked, representing a warrior or hunter, 
and other characters, apparently of Roman origin. This may 
have some slight bearing upon the traditions respecting the 
visit to this country of the chieftain Madoc and the North- 
men, hundreds of years prior to the date of its discovery by 
Columbus ; or it may strengthen the opinion, entertained by 
some, that the Indians of North America held communication 
with the natives of the Eastern Continent, long before its dis- 
covery in the latter part of the fifteenth century. 

But it has been suggested that this strange coin, with many 
others of the same kind, might have been circulated by un- 
known aborigines, who ceased to exist before the Indians became 
the proprietors of the soil, and whose very name has sunk into 
oblivion, with numberless unchronicled events, in the wide and 
deep ocean of the past. Quite certain it is, however, that there 
was a time when the level tracts of land which are now divided 
into so many smaller portions, and distributed among the nume- 
rous freeholders of Norfolk, Portsmouth, and vicinity, were a 
part of the vast, unexplored wilderness of North America, the 



36 HISTORICAL AND 

fit abode of the roving red man and the bounding deer. But 
strange beings suddenly appeared upon the native soil of the 
tawny sons of the forest ; the tall old oaks and " melancholy 
pines" tottered and fell; the Indian and the wild beast were 
alike hunted and driven away from their old and peaceful haunts, 
and the pale-faced adventurers from the Old World asserted 
their claim to the territory. The shrill war-whoop was succeeded 
by the sentimental love-song of the undaunted pioneer of the 
dense, dark wilds ; the Avolf, the panther, the bear, and other 
hideous tenants of the thickly-wooded lowlands, receded from 
the approach of the white man, nor mingled long their discordant 
voices with the strange and oft-repeated sound of the woodman's 
axe. 
^ That portion of Virginia which lies between the Atlantic shore 
and the base of the Blue Ridge, was occupied by about forty 
different tribes of Indians, thirty of which comprised the con- 
federacy of the brave though hostile Powhatan, whose dominion 
included a large extent of country, and extended eastwardly en- 
tirely to the sea-coast, including, of course, the site occupied by 
the City of Norfolk. The Manakins, the Nottoways, the Tuteloes, 
the Nansemunds, the Chesapeakes, &c., belonged, it appears, to 
this confederation ; and it is quite probable that members of 
each of these tribes frequently extended their rambles in search 
of fish, game, and plunder, to the green banks of our noble river 
and its tributaries. 

No doubt, however, need be entertained, with regard to the 
identical tribe that inhabited this particular spot, — the site of the 
City of Norfolk, as well as that of Portsmouth, and the country 
for several miles around. The Chesapeakes, from whom the Bay 
of Chesapeake derived its name, occupied the region of country 
from the western branch of our river, and some distance Avest of 
the head of that stream, eastwardly to the Atlantic, embracing 
a large portion, if not the whole of the- counties of Norfolk and 
Princess Anne. 

Here were their hunting-grounds. They swiftly paddled their 
light canoes over the deep and quiet waters of the Elizabeth 
and its tributaries — upon these very shores they held their war- 
councils, and " as the sun wheeled on his broad disk behind the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 37 

western hills," or, "as the moonbeams melted over the verge of 
the evening cloud," they gazed intently upon nature's beauties 
as they were spread out around, and admired them in their 
wildness, untouched, unaltered as they then were by the ever- 
changing and self-appropriating hand of civilization. Their bril- 
liant council-fires drove back the darkness of the " deep midnight" 
to the gloomy recesses of the forest, and lighted up the adjacent 
shores, while the savage war-cry, or the monotonous battle-song, 
made the welkin ring as they mingled in the merry dance or the 
frantic midnight revel. 

"The plough may, in after times, turn up their stone calumets, 
and the railroad excavation reveal their mouldering skeletons ; 
but their forms, their characters, their rugged virtues and wild 
crimes, will exist only in the records of the pale-face, or, more 
vividly, upon the canvass of the adventurous artist, who, like 
Stanley, devotes years of toil and danger to snatch from oblivion 
the likeness of a passing race." 

"Alas, for them ! their day is o'er; 
Their fires are out, from shore to shore ; 
No more for them their wild deer hounds — 
The plough is on their hunting-grounds ; 
The pale man's axe rings through their woods — 
The pale man's sails skim o'er their floods. 

Their pleasant springs are dry ; 
Their children, look, by power oppressed, 
Beyond the mountains of the West, 

Their children go, to die!" 

"Not many generations ago, where you now sit, encircled with 
all that exalts and embellishes civilized life, the rank thistle 
nodded in the wind, and the wild fox dug his hole unscared. 
Here lived and loved another race of beings. Beneath the same 
sun that rolls over your head, the Indian hunter pursued the 
panting deer ; — gazing on the same moon that smiles for you, the 
Indian lover wooed his dusky mate. Here, the wigwam blaze 
beamed on the tender and helpless, and the council-fire glared 
on the wise and daring. Here they warred ; the echoing whoop, 
the bloody grapple, the defying death-song, all were here ; and 
when the tiger strife was over, here curled the smoke of peace. 



38 HISTORICAL AND 

" Here, too, they worsliipped ; and from many a dark bosom 
went up a fervent prayer to the Great Spa-it. He had not 
written his laws'for them on tables of stone, but he had traced 
them on the tables of their hearts. The poor child of Nature 
knew not the God of Revelation, but the God of the Universe he ac- 
knowledged in everything around. He beheld him in the star that 
sank in beauty behind his lonely dwelling ; in the sacred orb that 
flarned on him from his mid-day throne ; in the flower that snapped 
in the morning breeze; in the lofty pine that defied a thousand 
whirlwinds; in the timid warbler that never left its native grove; 
in the fearless eagle whose untired pinion was wet in clouds ; in 
the worm that crawled at his feet ; and in his own matchless 
form, glowing with a spark of that light to whose mysterious 
source he bent in humble, though blind adoration. 

"And all this is passed away. . . . Across the ocean came a 
pilgrim bark, bearing the seeds of life and death. The former 
were sown for you ; the latter sprang up in the path of the simple 
native. Two hundred years have changed the character of a 
great continent, and blotted for ever from its face a whole pecu- 
liar people. Art has usurped the bowers of Nature, and the 
anointed children of education have been too powerful for the 
tribes of the ignorant. 

-1^ 'I- 'I' y ^ ^- -i' 

"Their council-fires have long since gone out on the shore, and 
their war-cry is fast fading to the untrodden West. SloAvly and 
sadly they climb the distant mountains, and read their doom in 
the setting sun. They are shrinking before the mighty tide 
which is pressing them away ; they must soon hear the roar of the 
last wave, which shall settle over them for ever. Ages hence, the 
inquisitive white man, as he stands by some growing city, will 
ponder on the structure of their disturbed remains, and wonder 
to Avhat manner of persons they belonged. They will live only 
in the songs and chronicles of their exterminators. Let these be 
faithful to their rude virtues, as men, and pay due tribute to their 
unhappy fate as a people." 

"Routed from every nook of the broad -wild-wood, 
AVhere in grand solitude they passed their childhood — 
Their hearth-stones smoking yet, their fathers' graves 
The silent resting-places of ' old braves,' 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 39 

Wlio ruled the country ere the white man came, 
To extend alike his glory and his shame — 
Left for the stranger's foot to trample on — 
Alas ! the red man from our land is gone! 
The NOBLE Indian, whoso defying eye 
Gleamed brighter as the thunder-storm went by — 
Who learned his lessons from the mystic lore 
Traced on the leaves or on the sea-beat shore. 
His day is past — and in the distant West, 
Heart-broken, home-exiled, he seeks a final rest." 



CHAPTER II. 

Early Anglo-Saxon Inhabitants — John Smith — First Settlers— Wealth and 
Hospitality— Civilization— Plentiful Productions of the Country— Names of 
early Inhabitants— Reign of James I.— Manners and Customs of the old 
English Settlers— General Character— Habits and Amusements- Charles II. 
English Nobility — Manners of the People — Fondness for Sport and Plea- 
sure—Intoxicating Drinks— Industry, Morality, Religion, Aristocracy— The 
Ladies, their Industry, Activity, Healthfulness, and Admirable Character- 
Descendants. 

The early Anglo-Saxon inhabitants of this, as well as of other 
sections of Virginia, are said' to have been a noble class of men, 
combining in their character — many of them — the essential ele- 
ments of uprightness, energy, and perseverance. The daring 
and indomitable Smith had laid the foundation of the political 
structure that was to rise in its beauty for the admiration of the 
world. He paved the way to its greatness for the benefit of 
future generations. His stern and unflinching devotion to the 
cause of justice and the best interest of the people, formed an 
example that was, perhaps, not without its effect upon the cha- 
racter of those who occupied the territory in after years. 

Many of the settlers of tliis region were dignified, high- 
minded, and intelligent. From the richness of the soil which 
they cultivated, and the facilities for trading with foreign coun- 
tries, many of them became wealthy — independently so. Some 



40 IIISTOmCALAND 

of tliem indeed, possessed — to use the forcible language of Dr. 
Johnson — " the potentiality of growing rich, beyond the dreams 
of avarice ;" and their hospitality and bountifulness were com- 
mensurate with their means. 

" In process of time, enterprise and industry overcame every 
difficulty, every terror. The soil, the wild beasts, the fierce 
natives themselves, yielded to the superior energies of civilized 
man. Neat mansions rose where rude Indian huts had stood ; 
the fertilizing ploughshare succeeded the murderous tomahawk, 
and rich cultivated fields smiled where a rank vegetation had 
spread for ages its wild luxuriancy. 

" The genial climate and transparent atmosphere delighted 
those who had come from the denser air of England. Every 
object in nature was new and wonderful. The hospitality of 
the Virginians became proverbial. Labour was valuable, land 
was cheap. Competence promptly followed industry. There 
was no need of a scramble ; abundance gushed from the earth 
for all. The morasses were alive with water-fowl, the forests 
were nimble with game, the woods rustled with coveys of quails 
and wild turkeys, while they rung with the merry notes of the 
singing birds." 

Some persons have supposed, from the style of architecture 
introduced, that this portion of the State was settled by the 
Dutch ; this is, however, a mistake ; it was peopled, principally, 
by settlers from England, although there were some from Ire- 
land, Scotland, Germany, &c. The Thorogoods, Hancocks, 
Woodhouses, Moseleys, Chapmans, Hayneses, Walkes, White- 
hursts, Smiths, Boushes, Drewreys, Cornicks, Reelings, Hun- 
ters, Newtons, Tatems, Herberts, Kempes, Butts, Tuckers, &c., 
were among the first established inhabitants of this portion of 
southeastern Virginia ; and their descendants are now, many of 
them, most estimable and respectable citizens of the city and 
county of Norfolk, and also of Princess Anne. 

In the early part of the seventeenth century, especially during 
the reign of James I., the pride of birth greatly prevailed in 
England. " The gentry and nobility distinguished themselves 
by a stiff dignity and stateliness of behaviour. The expenses of 
the higher rank consisted in pomp and show, and a numerous 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 41 

retinue, ratlier than convenience and pleasure;" and it is quite 
probable that these distinguishing characteristics were, to some 
extent, observable among the early English settlers of this 
region of country. It is more probable, however, that they 
were, for the most part, quite unostentatious. Their houses 
were mostly plain and not too extravagantly furnished ; there 
was probably much less of mere superfluity than there is at the 
present day. Quite enough there was, and to spare, for all the 
purposes of a people early distinguished for their hospitality and 
proverbial for good living. Some there were, among the leading 
and most opulent gentlemen of those days, who exhibited an air 
of reservedness and self-importance, which showed conclusively 
that they entertained no mean opinion of themselves. Indeed, it 
is quite probable, that they acknowledged no superior class of 
beings in any part of the wide earth. There were among those 
old yirginia settlers, men of fine talent, sound judgment, and 
well-cultivated minds. But it is probable they were most noted 
for incorruptible integrity, industry, and a commendable devo- 
tion to the best interests of the community in general, and of 
the immediate neighbours in particular. 

There were many, especially at a later period, who were re- 
markable for their sociality, and fondness for company and en- 
tertainments. Some delighted in a game at cards, others in a 
fox or deer-hunt. And the jovial parson complained not, if 
indeed he was not sometimes among the foremost in the chase ! 
Charles II., the reigning sovereign fifty or sixty years after the 
settlement of this immediate section of Virginia, "was a man of 
easy and lively manners, and his courtiers aff"ected the same 
character. They were chiefly men of the world ;" and the people 
here were, no doubt, influenced to a considerable extent by the 
manners and customs of the old English nobility of those days. 

Very many possessed a degree of fondness for hilarity and 
sport not often observed among their present descendants. They 
were a pleasure-loving, care-despising class ; an occasional frolic 
they would have, and that sometimes upon a pretty large scale. 
Like some of old, they were fond of "music and dancing," 
They sung songs and made merry, while the social glass, too, 
passed freely around the convivial board. But they drank liquors 



42 HISTORICAL AND 

of superior quality ; not the adulterated poisons so frequently 
used at the present period. They would have (those who could 
aiFord it) none but the best. Some, alas ! were sadly injured 
from their effects, and suffered severely in health, business, and 
property, while others were ruined outright ; although the suc- 
ceeding generations have suffered much more, as is readily ac- 
knowledged by all. They were industrious and active in attend- 
ing to the various duties of the farm, the store, or the office, and 
would have justly spurned some of the customs prevalent at the 
present time. They did not burn the midnight taper, nor con- 
sume the lamp of life in poring over injurious light reading ; a 
custom too much in vogue at the present time. 

With regard to the morality and religion of those days, there 
was, no doubt, more of principle than profession. There were 
many worthy men, who felt more than they seemed to feel on 
this subject. There was, doubtless, not enough of true piety ; 
yet there was, certainly, a considerable regard for genuine Chris- 
tianity. There Avere few churches and church members — few 
bigotted professors, but little empty show and ceremony : and yet 
there were examples of consistent, devoted, heartfelt godliness, 
whose genial influence has not been lost amid the changes and 
innovations that have been made with the lapse of years, and 
which still follow on in the track of time. 

Here, as in other parts of the Old Dominion, there was, as 
before intimated, quite enough of aristocracy. This, however, 
could very readily be thrown aside by some, on particular occa- 
sions, and was very generally dispensed with on election days. 

The ladies were then, as they are now, noted for their per- 
sonal attractions ; and many, in the higher walks of life, for 
great dignity of character, modesty, and politeness of behaviour, 
as well as for their activity and frugality in the management of 
their household affairs. These commendable qualities left their 
impress and beneficial influence upon succeeding generations. 
But many of the respected females who figured in the earlier 
period of our history, were very different, in some respects, from 
the accomplished and esteemed fair ones of the city at this day. 
They were generally more robust, and capable of enduring much 
greater fatigue. The roseate tints upon the full cheek of health 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. ' 43 

Avere more frequently to be seen, nor so soon gave place to the 
paler hues of debility, disease, and premature death. They 
^Yalked early around the fields of waving grain, and gathered the 
variegated wild-flowers that exhaled their fragrance on the air, 
while yet the crystal dew-drops sparkled on their delicate petals. 
They mounted the spirited horse and cantered merrily and cheerily 
away, ere Aurora had bedecked with gold the eastern sky, or 
the cheerful lark had concluded her matin song ; availing them- 
selves of the benefit of exercise and the invigorating vital fluid. 
Some spun at the wheel or wove at the hand-loom ! and cultivated 
kitchen and flower gardens. They studied the Bible, and other 
books of sound moral and religious instruction ; instilled correct, 
honourable, virtuous, and patriotic principles into the minds of 
their children, and presided with dignity and grace at the social 
entertainment or the convivial evening gathering. Of many it 
might then have been said, using the words of King Solomon, "She 
openeth her mouth with wisdom, and in her tongue is the law of 
kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and 
eateth not the bread of idleness. Her children arise up and call 
her blessed ; her husband also, and he praiseth her." 

*' When the difliculty between the mother country and the co- 
lonies began, they immediately gave up their tea, and by their 
example and exhortations encouraged the men to resist her en- 
croachments. When the cry ' to arms' rang through the land, 
with eager haste they prepared their husbands and sons for the 
contest. They knit hose, made knapsacks, and even moulded 
balls of their dishes and plates, while the males were drilling. 
Then when the hour of parting came, mothers blessed their sons, 
and bade them go forth in the vigour of youth. Wives and 
maidens blessed their husbands and lovers, and, smiling through 
tears, urged them to struggle manfully for their country and 
their God." 

The descendants of some of those excellent old families, whose 
lofty bearing and sterling worth assisted in giving an enviable 
and enduring fame to the State, are now numbered among the 
inhabitants of our growing city and vicinity. Many have gone 
to other parts of our highly-favoured land of freedom, while the 
mortal remains of numbers more, quietly repose in the deep, un- 
broken stillness of the tomb. 



44 HISTORICAL AND 



CHAPTER III. 

1650—1736. 

Remarks relative to the name of the City, &c. — Colonel Thorogood — Original 
Limits of Norfolk County — Upper and Lower Norfolk — Divisions and Subdivi- 
sions — Parishes, Churches, and Laws — Nansemond and Princess Anne Coun- 
ties — The Princess of Denmark — Seat of Justice in Princess Anne County — 
Court-house and Jail of Norfolk County, and the Borough — Early Owners of 
the Site of Norfolk — Act of Assembly — Cobham — Singular Provisions — The 
Land Purchased by Trustees — Original Limits of the Town — Old Deed — The 
Walke Family — Norfolk established a Town — Increasing Commerce and Popu- 
lation — Prospect of Advancement — Statement of Colonel Byrd — The Bo- 
rough Charter — Samuel Boush and other Officers of the Corporation — 
Boundaries — City Limits — Tanner's Creek — Town Bridge — Extract from 
the Virginia Gazette — First Council, Recorder, &c. — The first Mayor — 
Other Charter-men and their Descendants. 

We next oflfer some observations, which, it is hoped, will not 
prove uninteresting to the reader, relative to the origin of the 
name of this City and County, and to the original limits and 
subsequent divisions and subdivisions of the latter. 

Norfolk — correctly pronounced Norfohe — is a Saxon word, 
compounded of North and folic, and may, with some propriety, 
be rendered No7'th ])eople. In the early records of the county 
and of the State, '■^ Norff." represents the name Norfolk, as an 
abbreviation. It was also written Norfolhe. By persons residing 
in the city and vicinity, the sound of the I is omitted in the 
pronunciation; but it is often improperly sounded by persons 
residing abroad. 

This name was given to this section of the State by Colonel Tho- 
rogood, one of the earliest settlers, in honour of his native county 
in England (celebrated for its woollen goods, sheep, turnips, 
turkeys, fish, &c.), from which he emigrated at an early period, 
to Elizabeth City County, which he afterwards represented in 
the General Assembly, and whence he removed across the Avater 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 45 

and settled on the Bay shore. To the town was afterwards given 
the okl English name of the county.* 

Norfolk County originally included, in addition to its present 
limits, Princess Anne and Nansemond — formerly called Nandzi- 
mum and Nansimum ; Captain Smith wrote it Nandsamund. This 
part of the territory of Virginia, shortly after being explored and 
named by Colonel Thorogood, was designated as Upper and Lower 
Norfolk. The portion now known as the county of Nansemond, was 
called Upper Norfolk (formerly written thus — Vpper Norff.), and 
the rest, now included in the two counties of Norfolk and Princess 
Anne, was called Lower Norfolk. It Avas also laid off m. parishes ; 
and there was the parish of Saint Brides, of Lynnhaven, &c. 
In these subdivisions, churches were soon erected and provided 
with pastors. The inhabitants were then required, under a 
penalty of the law, to attend church, and the ministers were 
amenable to heavy fines for failing to be regularly at their post ! 
The limits of the parishes were generally comprised between two 
water-courses, commencing at two principal points on the main 
stream, and embracing all the territory between the river branches, 
to an indefinite distance up into the country. 

Prior to 1761, however, Elizabeth River Parish comprised a 
large region of country on both sides of the river; and con- 
sequently causing inconvenience to the inhabitants, they pe- 
titioned the General Assembly to have it divided into three dis- 
tinct parishes. It was accordingly enacted, " that from and 
after the first day of May, 1761, the parish should be divided 

* Norfolk is a populous maritime county in Massachusetts. Norfolk is the 
name of a township in Connecticut. Norfolk Island is situated in the Pacific 
Ocean ; it is noted for pine trees, high hills, and beautiful birds — and Norfolk 
Sound is in Ion. 135° 36' W., lat. 57° 3' N. 

Of the Dukes of Norfolk, much is recorded in English history. About the 
year 1390, the Duke of Norfolk was sentenced to perpetual exile for attempting 
to fight a duel ; and a nobleman of this title, greatly distinguished as a warrior 
and statesman, flourished during a considerable part of the 16th century. 
About 1570, he was considered "the most powerful subject in England."' He 
was, however, convicted of being concerned, with Mary, Queen of Scots, in a 
conspiracy, and was executed. "A jury of twenty-five Peers passed sentence 
upon him, and the fatal warrant was signed by Queen Elizabeth with much 
hesitation and reluctance." 



46 HISTORICAL AND 

into three, to be called Elizabeth River, St. Brides, and Ports- 
mouth Parishes," which was accordingly done, and Elizabeth 
River Parish comprised the land on the northward and eastward 
of the river, and of its eastern branch (Lynnhaven Parish, it ap- 
pears, was afterwards formed from this). The limits of St. Brides 
Parish were between the eastern and southern branches, extend- 
ing to a mill on Mill Creek, thence southwardly into the Dismal 
Swamp, as far as the Carolina line, and Portsmouth Parish com- 
prised the remaining part of the former Elizabeth River Parish, 
extending up into the country, on the south of the river, and on 
the west of its southern branch. 

The name of Upper Norfolk was changed to Nansemond ; and 
in 1691, at the instance of the inhabitants in the eastern and 
northeastern part of Lower Norfolk, including Lynnhaven Parish, 
another subdivision took place, by act of Assembly, and Princess 
Anne County was formed from Lower Norfolk. This was warmly 
opposed by the people in the Parishes of St. Brides, &c., princi- 
pally on account of the consequent increase in the poll-tax. 

The name, Princess Anne, was, of course, adopted in honour 
of Anne, the amiable Princess of Denmark (daughter of James 
IL), who ascended the throne in 1702, in the 38th year of her 
age, and whose loyal subjects gave her the title of " the good 
Queen Anne." 

The first court-house in that county was built upon a branch 
of the " River of Chesapeake," — now known as Lynnhaven River 
— at the " Ferry landing," on the farm now owned by Lieutenant 
Charles Mcintosh, U. S. N. The old building was taken down about 
twelve years ago ; it had been used as one of the outhouses of 
the farm. The seat of justice was removed from that place to New 
town, on the eastern branch of the Elizabeth, thence it was re- 
moved to the land of Mr. Kempc, at the head of that stream, now 
the village of Kempsville. In the early part of the present cen- 
tury another change was made, and the present central location 
was adopted, which is ten miles below Kempsville, and twenty 
from the city. 

Until 1752, the Court-house of Norfolk County was located in 
the borough, and was used by the citizens thereof, as well as by 
those of the county. At this date, however, an act of Assembly 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 47 

was passed authorizing the building of a court-house for Norfolk 
Borough, This was, of course, consumed in the conflagration 
of '76. 

In 1662, two hundred acres of the land now occupied by the 
City of Norfolk was owned by one Lewis Vandermull, who, in 
the same year, sold it to Nicholas Wise, sen., a shipwright. 

1680. On the 8th of June of this year, one hundred and 
eighty-eight years after the discovery of America, and seventy- 
three after the first permanent settlement in Virginia (at James- 
toAvn, in 1607), an act of Assembly was passed, directing the 
purchase of fifty acres of land for the Town op Norfolk. 

This was called an ^''Act for cohabitation and encouragement 
of trade and manufactiire." It was very desirable to establish 
towns for the purpose of concentrating trade, and of increasing 
the price and facilitating the exportation of tobacco, &c. Fifty 
acres of land were accordingly purchased by feoffees of several 
counties then formed, including fifty in " Lower Norfolk County, 
on Nicholas Wise, his land on eastern branch of Elizabeth River, 
at the entrance of the branch." 

The act states " that the price to be paid by each county for 
each respective ffifty acres of land nominated as aforesaid, shalbe 
tenn thousand pounds of tobacco and caske, which summe the 
owner or owners thereof shalbe and are hereby constrained to 
accept, take, and receive, as full and valueable price for the said 
land for ever." 

This singular and somewhat amusing act further provided that 
all persons who would build a dwelling and warehouse upon the 
land so appropriated, should have assigned them half an acre of 
said land in fee simple, on paying to the county one hundred 
pounds of tobacco and cask — the buildings to be commenced within 
three months after the assignment. 

Tobacco and other produce Avere required by the act to be brought 
to said locations and there stored, sold, shipped, &c. The penalty 
for failing to comply with this provision of the act was the for- 
feiture of all goods that were not so disposed of. It was further 
provided, that "All goods, wares, English servants, negroes, and 
other slaves and merchandise whatsoever that shalbe imported into 
this colony from and after the twenty-ninth day of September, 



48 HISTORICAL AND 

which shalbe in the yeare 1681, shalbe landed on shore, bought, 
and sould at such appointed places aforesaid, and at noe other 
place whatsoever, under like penalty and forfeiture thereof." 

The tobacco sent to the said settlements was free from all execu- 
tions, attachments, &c. It was further provided that all lawyers, 
bricklayers, &c., that Avould "cohabitt, dwell, and exercise their 
trades within the said appointed place," should be freed from 
arrest of their persons or seizure of their estates for debts formerly 
contracted, for five years after the publication of the act. Other 
persons were free from "publique levyes," during the same term, 
showing the great and commendable anxiety to establish towns, 
attract emigration, and increase trade.* 

In 1682, August 16, the land was purchased by trustees from 
Nicholas Wise, a house carpenter of Elizabeth River Parish, in 
the County of Lower Norfolk. He was a son of the individual of 
that name above mentioned. The grant was made " for and in con- 
sideration of the sum of ten thousand pounds of good merchant- 
able tobacco and caske, to Captain Wm. Robinson and Lieutenant 
Colonel Anthony Lawson, feoffees in trust for the said county." 
The grant embraced all the land on the river, from the eastern 
to the western end of the present Main Street, bounded on the 
north by Back Creek, which, at that time, flowed from the river 
eastwardly nearly to Church Street. Granby and Bank Streets 
cross this creek, and where the City Hall now stands, was then 
navigable for small craft and lighters. The greater portion of 
the land south of Main Street has since been added by filling up 
the river. 
'^ ■■ The old deed from Wise to the trustees is quite a curiosity as 
a legal contract, commencing, " To all Christian people to ivliom 
these presents shall come.'" A portion of the conveyance, after 
naming the price, &c., reads thus : " I hold myself well satisfied, 
contented, and paid, and for divers other considerations, me there- 
fore moving, having given, granted, bargained, sold, alienated, 
enfeoffed, and conformed, by these presents, for myself, my heirs, 

* Prior to the establishment of other trading-points, considerable trade and 
shipping were carried on at a landing called Cobham, opposite Jamestown, on 
James River. More business was done there at one time than at all other places 
in the State combined. 



DESCKIPTIVE SKETCHES. 49 

exor's, and adm'rs, do give, grant, bargain, sell, alienate, enfeoff, 
and confirm," &c. The location, boundary, &c., are thus de- 
fined : " Situate and lying in Elizabeth River Parish, north side 
of Elizabeth River, bounded Avith Elizabeth River to south and 
west, to the north with a creek, and to the east with several 
stacks, running partly across an old field, and partly through 
some points of woodland, it being a small nick of cleared ground 
and woodland," &c. 

The deed thus concludes : "In the year of the reign of our 
sovereign lord. King Charles the Second, over England, Scotland, 
France, and Ireland, defender of the faith," &c. 

This land was part of the tract of 200 acres which Mr. Wise 
inherited from his father. The remaining tract of 150 acres, 
afterwards included in the limits of the town, was purchased by 
Charles Wilder, wdio sold it to William Porten, Clerk of the 
County Court, from whom it was purchased by Anthony Walke, 
some of whose descendants are now highly respectable residents 
of the City, and of the County of Princess Anne. That part of 
this tract extending from Bermuda Street to Plume's Cove, in- 
cluding Fenchurch Street and the whole of Briggs' Point, re- 
mained in the Walke family for more than a century ; and some 
of the heirs are, at the present time (1853), proprietors of a por- 
tion of this old family estate. 

1705. At this period a considerable population had been at- 
tracted to the place by its f'^ vourable situation for trade and 
commerce, and in October of this year, Norfolk was, by act of 
Assembly, regularly established a town. 

1728. The business of the place had now greatly increased, 
and a very considerable number added to the population. Its 
situation presented all the requisite advantages for commerce, 
navigation, and a profitable investment of capital. A brisk 
trade was carried on with the West Indies, whither large quan- 
tities of flour, lumber, beef, pork, &c., were exported ; in return 
for which were imported, abundant supplies of sugar, molasses, 
rum, and fruits. Twenty or thirty brigs and smaller vessels 
constantly rode at the wharves ; the merchants and mechanics 
all appeared to be actively engaged, and prospering ; a number 
of stores and dwellings were erected, real estate advanced in 

4 



50 HISTORICAL AND 

price, and there was no good reason for doubting that Norfolk 
■would, ere the present day, be a very large and flourishing city, 
if not the greatest upon the whole coast. 

" The two cardinal virtues," wrote Colonel Byrd, at this 
period, " that make a place thrive — industry and frugality — are 
seen here in perfection ; and so long as they can banish luxury 
and idleness, the town will remain in a happy and flourishing 
condition." And so it did, for many years ; indeed, the town 
appears to have continued in a "flourishing condition" (with 
some intermissions), until the memorable 1st of January, 1776. 

1736, September 15th. This is the date of the Royal Charter 
of Norfolk Borough, of which the following is an extract : 

"Whereas, a healthful and pleasant place, commodious for 
trade and navigation, by an act of the General Assembly of our 
Colony and Dominion of Virginia, hath been appointed and laid 
out for a town, called by the name of Norfolk ; which place of 
late years, especially during the administration of our trusty and 
well-beloved William Gooch, Esq., our Lieutenant-Governor of 
our said Colony, hath been very greatly increased in the number 
of its inhabitants and buildings, in so much that the said town, 
not being capable of containing all such persons as have resorted 
thereto, divers of our loving subjects have seated themselves 
upon the adjoining land, so far as to a place called the Town 
Bridge. Know ye, that we being willing to encourage all our 
good and faithful subjects, as well at present residing and inha- 
biting, as shall or may hereafter reside and inhabit within the 
said town of Norfolk, and the places thereunto adjoining, so far 
as the Town Bridge, at the instance and petition of divers of our 
dutiful and loyal subjects, inhabitants of the said town and places 
adjacent, of our royal grace, good will, certain knowledge, and 
mere motion, with the advice of our Council of our said Colony, 
have constituted and erected, and by these our Letters Patent, 
do constitute and erect the said town of Norfolk and the said 
parts thereunto adjoining, so far as said bridge, a borough, by 
the name of the Borough of Norfolk ; and for us, our heirs, and 
successors, do, by these presents, grant to the inhabitants of the 
said borough, and of the parts adjacent, that the said borough 
and the parts adjacent, shall be a borough incorporate, 
consisting of a mayor, one person learned in the law, styled 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 51 

and bearinff the office of recorder of the said boroush, ei(Tht 
aldermen, and sixteen other persons to be common-councilmen 
of the said borough." 

The Charter points out the duties of the mayor, aklormen, &c. 
Samuel Boush, Esq., was appointed to be Mayor ; Sir John 
Randolph (Knight), Recorder ; and George Newton, Samuel 
Boush, the younger, John Hutchings, Robert Tucker, John 
Taylor, Samuel Smith, the younger, James Ivey, and Alexander 
Campbell, were appointed Aldermen. Provision was also made 
in the charter for the election of councilmen and the different 
officers of the corporation, the holding of the courts, elections, 
fnarkets, public fairs, &c. 

This Charter was granted, and the letters patent witnessed by 
William Gooch, Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-chief 
of the Colony and Dominion of Virginia, at Williamsburg, " in 
the tenth year of our reign." 

"It will be seen that the northern boundary of the town, when 
it was incorporated, was defined by a line running from the head 
of the cove at Town Bridge, in a westerly direction to the river, 
embracing the whole of the two hundred acre tract of Mr. Wise." 
" In 1761, the limits were enlarged, by Act of Assembly, so as 
to take in all the land south of a line running from the head of 
Newton's Creek to the head of Smith's Creek." "In 1807, a 
new survey of the northern boundary was ordered by Act of 
Assembly ; and the line between the heads of the two creeks 
designated by stone landmarks. The jurisdiction of the city 
now extends over a space of about eight hundred acres."* 

* With regard to extending the city limits, the Herald thus remarks (1850) : 
" The purpose of petitioning the Legislature for the extension of the boun- 
daries of the city to include all the land west of a line from the head of Plume's 
Creek (now the eastern boundary of the city) to Tanner's Creek, however 
visionary it may seem at a first glance, will, on a closer inspection, be found at 
least worthy of consideration. Our city limits now embrace a space equivalent, 
we believe, to a square of one mile and a quarter. The contemplated exten- 
sion would make it equal to a square of three miles. It would take in all the 
farms on the south side of Tanner's Creek, down to the old " Quarantine House," 
and all from that point to Lambert's Point, and thence to Smith's Point, the 
present western terminus of the city ; and it would then be a great deal 
smaller than one-half of the site of the city of New York. A ditch or canal 
• from Plume's to Tanner's Creek, about a mile, would completely insulate the 



52 HISTORICAL AND 

As early as the period at which the borough charter was ob- 
tained, the town had spread far beyond the limits of the fifty 
acres first purchased from Wise, and extended from the river 
"out into the country" to the cove above mentioned. This cove 
extended from Newton's Creek west to the spot where Church 
and Charlotte Streets now intersect each other, at which place 
there was for a long time, a bridge, which gave the name of 
Town Bridge to that immediate portion of the town, and which 
it still retains, although there has been no bridge, nor any neces- 
sity for one for many years. During the Revolutionary struggle, 

city, while it would afford a ready means of transportation for wood and mar- 
keting for all the country on the north side of Tanner's Creek to the lower end 
of the city. 

" It is not at all improbable, we think, that if our city were thus extended it would 
infuse a spirit of energy and enterprise into the people of the new municipality, 
which they must remain utterly insensible to while their noses are kept to the 
grindstone by the powers to which they owe allegiance, and they are not per- 
mitted to have the full benefit of the taxes they are called upon to pay : they 
would feel and estimate their independence, and the value of their city con- 
nexion ; they would bestir themselves to make their farms more valuable, and 
find out the secret of cultivating more on a few acres, than they have heretofore 
done on many, and thus enable them to sell as much land as they can conve- 
niently do without. But we would caution them not to be in too great haste 
to part with their lands, nor to part with any more than they can do without ; 
for in fifty years from now the whole will be compactly built up and become a 
part of the flourishing city of Norfolk. We cannot live to see it ; but there are 
those of adult age who will." 

The following additional remarks on this subject, are from the Herald of a 
more recent date : 

"Our city authorities should be looking about them for more land for a 
further extension of the city limits ; and while they are about it, why not take 
in the whole extent of the boundaries so clearly indicated by nature ? com- 
mencing at the head of Newton's (or Plume's) Creek and running across the 
narrow strip of territory (three-quarters of a mile in width) between the head 
of that Creek and Tanner's Creek, and following that water-course to its junc- 
tion with Elizabeth River, and thence to the present limit of our southern water 
front. It is not generally known that Tanner's Creek, the northern boundary 
of the city as it then would be, is a bold stream all the way up to the point 
where it is proposed to intersect it by a canal from the head of Newton's 
Creek ; and that for more than a mile from its mouth it has a sufficient depth 
of water for ships of large tonnage. There were formerly several ship-yards 
on Tanner's Creek, where vessels of large draught were constructed. The last of 
which we have any recollection was the brig George Loyall, built by the late 
Isaac Talbot, Esq." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 53 

an entrenchment was thrown up from this place across the town 
to Smith's Point. It has been stated by a person now living 
(1852), that boats of considerable size were frequently to be seen 
at Town Bridge, at as late a period as 1780. Many years since, 
Fenchurch Street was extended across this ravine, and Charlotte 
Street has been continued through from Church to Fenchurch, 
(and will be lengthened to Chapel), covering what was formerly 
the centre of the cove ; and on each side of which, buildings 
are now erected. 

The following remai-ks are copied from the Virginia Gazette 
of November 26, 1736. 

•" The inhabitants of Norfolk Town, in this Colony, having for 
several Years past, flourished in Trade, by their sending Vessels 
to Sea, loaded with the Commodities of this Country, which re- 
turned with those of other Countries, by which several of the 
Merchants are become very considerable, and the Number of 
their inhabitants increasing, they lately petitioned the Governor 
for a Charter to incorporate them, which was accordingly granted: 
and an Act of Assembly passed the last Session, to confirm and 
strengthen the said Charter, by which they are incorporated by 
the name of the Borough of Norfolk, and are to consist of a 
Mayor, Recorder, and 8 Alderman ; who have power to hold a 
Court of Hustings, &c., and to choose 16 Common Council Men ; 
with several Privileges, Immunities, &c., granted by the said 
Charter ; in which the following Gentlemen are nominated, viz., 
Samuel Boush, Gent., Mayor, Sir John Randolph, Knt., Re- 
corder, &c. The first Mayor dying soon after the Grant of the 
said Charter, he is succeeded by Gr. Netvton, Gent. 

" Sir John Randolph being so appointed Recorder of the said 
Borough, made a Visit to them, and was on Thursday, the 18th 
instant, sworn into that Office accordingly : And he being em- 
powered to appoint a Deputy, to act in his absence, did appoint 
David Oshcall, General Deputy Recorder of the said Borough, 
who was accordingly qualified. 

" On this Occasion of Sir John's Visit, the Gentlemen of the 
said Town and Neighbourhood, shew'd him all-imaginable Re- 
spect, by displaying the Colours, and firing the Guns of the 
Vessels lying there, and entertained him at their Houses, in the 



54 HISTORICAL AND 

most elegant Manner, for several clays ; amply signalizing their 
great Respect, on this joyful Occasion." 

The first Council meeting was held November 18th. This 
was the only meeting attended by Sir John Randolph. Two 
days thereafter, he appointed a deputy. 

" Mr. Henry Tazewell, of James City, the father of Governor 
Tazewell, was the next Recorder, and qualified and took his seat 
on the bench, the 19th August, 1782, and continued as such 
until his appointment as a Judge of the General Court. He was 
succeeded by Edmund Randolph, on the 22d February, 1786 ; 
but it does not appear that he ever qualified. After this, by the 
Act of 1787, the Court and Council being separated, the Re- 
corder was always one of our own citizens, and the appointment 
vesting in the Court, no notice of course appears on the journal 
of the Council." 

Samuel Boush, Esq., the first mayor of the borough of Nor- 
folk, three years after his appointment, presented to the parish 
the grounds occupied by St. Paul's Church, including the old 
grave-yard. The initials of his name may be seen in large 
capitals, in the brickwork of the south end of the church, with 
the date, 1739. In that sacred old cemetery his remains have 
reposed in stillness and security for long years that have 
past and gone, with the multitudes of the sleeping dead around ; 
alas ! how unconscious of the varied scenes and misfortunes, the 
noise, bustle, commotions, alterations, and improvements, that 
have been going on in the place in which he had the honour 
of presiding as its first chief magistrate ! 

" The third name mentioned in the old charter is that of Creorge 
Neivton. In 1706, he married Aphie Wilson, and had nine 
children. His son Thomas married Amy, daughter of John 
Hutchings, whose name also appears in the charter. They had 
five children, all of whom died in infancy, except a son, also 
named Thomas, who married Martha Tucker, a daughter of 
another of the charter men. The last-named Thomas was the 
father of the late respected and intelligent citizens, Thomas and 
George Newton." 

No man was better known in Norfolk and the District than 
the Hon. Thomas Newton, one of the brothers just mentioned. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 65 

As a citizen, lie was kind, polite, and unostentatious ; as a poli- 
tician, ardent and faithful ; possessing the advantage of great 
experience. 

" In the early stage of his life he pursued the profession of law, 
from which, in 1801, he was called by the voice of his fellow- 
citizens, whose political sentiments he reflected, and whose con- 
fidence he possessed, to represent them in Congress. 

" Mr. Newton commenced his political career soon after the 
elevation of Mr. Jefferson to the Presidency, and was regularly 
returned from the Norfolk District for thirty years. His man- 
ners were plain ; indeed they could not have been farther re- 
moved from arrogance or repulsiveness than they really were. 
Such was the good feeling which his republican simplicity and 
long services created in his favour, that no hostile power could 
easily shake him in the estimation of the majority of his consti- 
tuents." He died August 5th, 1847, at the advanced age of 79. 
George Newton, Esq., the brother of Thomas, was a very 
wealthy gentleman. He, also, merited and enjoyed the esteem 
and confidence of his fellow-citizens, having filled important 
public offices. They had several estimable sisters, who married 
in highly respectable families. Two of them are now living. 

Some of the individuals comprising the present descendants of 
the family are now members of this community, while others of 
them have removed elsewhere. Cincinnatus AV., one of the sons 
of Thomas, has represented the city in the Legislature of the 
State ; and Dr. Thos. Newton, son of George, an accomplished 
physician, is an efficient alderman of the city. 

'• The next name in the charter, after Newton, is Samuel 
Boush, Jr. He was the first clerk of the Borough Court, when 
its powers were enlarged, and in the year 1766 was one of the 
committee of correspondence appointed by the Sons of Liberty ; 
an association formed by many of our most respectable citizens, 
to concert measures of defence against the operations of the 
Stamp Act. He, too, was buried in St. Paul's Churchyard. 

'' The next name is John Ilutchings, who also opposed the 
Stamp Act, and was one of the committee appointed by the Sons 
of Liberty. His earthly remains also lie in the yard of old St. 
Paul's, near the south gate. A daughter of his married Dr. 



56 HISTORICAL AND 

John Ramsay, a native of Scotland, a vfarm and fearless patriot, 
and a Son of Liberty." He was an eminent physician, and a 
gentleman greatly respected for his intelligence and public spirit. 
His name will appear in another part of this work, in connexion 
with some further allusions to the Sons of Liberty. 

" The next name is that of Robert Tucker, one of the corre- 
sponding committee of the ' Sons.' He at one time had twenty- 
one children living ! but now no male descendant bears his re- 
spected name. He and most of his numerous family were interred 
in the lot connected with the Exchange Bank. 

" John Taylor's name comes next. He was born in 1691 and 
died in 1744. He was buried in the lot of St. Paul's, and the 
spot is marked by a massive tablet. His descendants are among 
the Avorthiest members of the community. 

" Samuel Smith is the next name. From him the creek that 
bounds the city on the north side and Smith's Point took their 
name. He was buried on the left hand, as you enter the northern 
gate of the old churchyard. 

" James Ivey appears next. He was the ancestor of the 
Iveys, who formerly lived in Norfolk County. He died and was 
buried at his country seat, on Tanner's Creek." 

Alexander Campbell is the last name in the charter. We have 
not been able to gather any further definite information respect- 
ing this gentleman, than the fact, that from him Campbell's 
Wharf took its name. 



CHAPTER IV. 

1736—1739. 

Distinct Classes of Society — Effect of War — Political Agitation — Changes — 
Slow Movements — Style of Architecture — Flourishing Commerce — Sports — 
Fairs — Greased Pole — Pig Chase — Sack Races — Empty Hogshead Affair 
—Hot Mush— Bull-bait— Old St. Paul's— The Grounds Improved— Church 
Street — Diabolical Plot — The Old Graveyard, and its Silent Occupants. 

The inhabitants of the borough of Norfolk, anterior to the 
Revolutionary War, were divided into three distinct classes ; and 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 57 

the lines of demarcation -were more plainly. designated than at 
the present time. " The first included the clergy, the medical 
faculty, lawyers, merchants, and those who lived on their in- 
come. The second was composed of mechanics, who were greatly 
respected in their class; and the Hay-rag and hoh-taiV consti- 
tuted the third." 

But when the roar of the Revolution was heard, as it were, 
booming in the distance — when the commotions and soul-trying 
events of war were realized, society Avas shaken to its centre ; 
the different classes were, of necessity, less plainly identified ; 
and while it must be acknowledged that there were some who, 
from the want of firmness or a lack of principle — from motives 
of self-preservation, or from considerations entirely of a pecu- 
niary nature, gave their efforts and influence against the op- 
pressed, or withdrew entirely from the scene of contention, still, 
to a great extent, all parties and classes united against the com- 
mon foe. And after the din of battle had been hushed by the 
triumph of an unconquered and unconquerable people ; when the 
sad calamities of war were over ; after the smoke from the ruins 
of Virginia's principal town had passed away, and Norfolk began 
to rise from its ashes, the different grades and classes here were 
more united in their efforts, and there was a perceptible, though 
gradual, abandonment of the old aristocratic views. 

But an allusion to the Revolutionary scenes and events that 
took place here, will not be omitted in its appropriate place ; 
and it is proper now to confine the reader's attention to Norfolk 
as it was, prior to that memorable period — the infancy of a na- 
tion, which now stands majestically forth in its own power and 
glory, for the eager gaze of an admiring, though jealous world. 
And yet, not without occasional indications of troublesome 
and tumultuous events. May they prove to be only as the 
thunder of the distant storm-cloud, or merely the rumbling and 
gentle vibratory motions of the far-off earthquake ; and not a 
fell and fearful visitation, by which the whole mighty Union, 
and perhaps the great nations of the earth, shall be convulsed 
and shaken, while thousands and tens of thousands shall be in- 
volved in the common desolation and ruin.* 

* These remarks were written -wlieii the public mind was greatly agitated on 
the Slavery question, and prior to the passing of the Compromise measures. 



58 HISTORICAL AND 

During the lapse of more than a hundred years, numerous 
changes have, as a matter of course, taken place here as well as 
elsewhere. Many have, doubtless, been judicious and advanta- 
geous, while some have been of doubtful utility. It will not be 
insisted that Norfolk has, during the last fifty years, kept pace 
with very many other places in the country. No, indeed ; for it 
is quite too certain that the people here have been wont to jog 
along in the march of improvement slowly, very ; at least, in 
some respects. Improvements have, however, been made ; and 
very important and beneficial innovations have marked the his- 
tory of the place from time to time. 

The style of building, for instance, in Norfolk and vicinity, as 
well as elsewhere, has been wonderfully improved. In the early 
days of the history of this section, the mode of constructing 
dwellings was quite singular. They were often built with a 
Dutch roof, a chimney at each end, or in the middle, with very 
spacious fire-places, furnished generally with figured cast-iron 
back-pieces. The walls were, in many cases, built of imported 
bricks, and were very thick. There were two rooms and a pas- 
sage on the first floor (which was often within two or three feet 
of the ground), and several small chambers above. Some pre- 
ferred a very sharp or acute-angled roof, but the prevailing taste 
gave the preference to the unsightly plan first mentioned. The 
mantel-pieces were five or six feet high, and the walls on the in- 
side were wainscotted, or covered with a casing of panel-work. 
The carpentry was much more heavy and clumsy than at the 
present day. Some of the buildings of the more wealthy por- 
tion of the community were large and tolerably commodious ; 
having, sometimes, one very spacious room for company, balls, 
social parties, &c., in one end ; a dining and sleeping-room in 
the other, and a wide passage through the middle ; and the inte- 
rior work was often of oak, walnut, &c. But the houses were, 
many of them, of contracted dimensions, badly ventilated, and 
very uncomfortable, especially in summer ; having small, low- 
ceiled rooms, with a few diminutive windows, scarcely half the 
size of those in the light, commodious, and airy mansions of our 
time. The kitchen was frequently placed at a considerable dis- 
tance from the dwelling, sometimes as much as fifty paces or 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 59 

more, and often exhibited many of the architectural peculiarities 
of the principal house. 

There are many of these old, ante-revolutionary family resi- 
dences in the counties of Norfolk and Princess Anne. We shall 
speak especially of one in the immediate vicinity of Kempsville, 
about ten miles from this city, and belonging to the descendants 
of Anthony Walke, Esq., one of the early settlers, to whom Ave 
have alluded on another page. This Dutch-roof relic of an- 
tiquity is probably two hundred years old, resisting still the 
effects of time. The walls are more than four feet thick, for 
some distance above the ground. The interior walls and ceiling 
are heavily wainscotted with black walnut, the passage is ex- 
ceedingly spacious ; and there are other architectural curiosities 
about it which form a striking contrast to the present style of 
building. 

The old borough is said to have been " a rare place," before 
the disasters of the Revolution. The harbour was almost filled 
with vessels, many of which were very large. Commerce was 
exceedingly flourishing ; money was plentiful. There Avas but 
little grumbling about " hard times." The sluggish, lazy, intem- 
perate, or the constitutional grumblers, only, complained ; and 
fortunes were made much more rapidly than at present. Indeed, 
this port almost monopolized the heavy trade of the West In- 
dies. All were busy ; a prosperous state of affairs was plainly 
exhibited on every hand, and no one doubted the future great- 
ness of the place. And yet, it appears that many found time 
for amusement and pastime. 

The sports and diversions of those days, though principally of 
English and Scotch origin, Avere ludicrous enough. Sometimes 
the most laughable scenes Avere presented. It was customary 
and lawful to hold fairs'^ in the Market Place ; and, on such 
occasions, the middle of the Square was appropriated to such 
amusements as the young and mirth-loving portion of the croAvd 
chose to engage in. No objection was made to the noise and 

"- Fairs and markets were first instituted in England, by Egbert, in 829. In 
early days, markets Avere held in Norfolk on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and 
the fairs were held annually on the 3d of October, and the four following days, 
Sundays excepted. 



60 HISTORICAL AND 

uproar which accompanied the sport. They hiughed and shouted 
aloud, without hindrance or molestation. Sometimes a pole, well 
greased and soaped, with a gilt-laced hat on the top, was erected 
in the middle of the Market Space ; and the unavailing efforts to 
take the tempting prize that was freely offered to the smartest 
man, was a source of great merriment to the lookers-on. Young 
men, and, occasionally, some of the dainseU, too, ran races. 
Pigs were turned loose amid the crowd, for those who could catch 
and hold them hy their tails, which had been previously well- 
shaved and greased. 

There were, also, '•'■sack races.'" A purse was made up, and 
two candidates selected, who were separately enclosed, all but 
the head, in a bag, the mouth of which was drawn closely around 
the neck. Then, the unavailing attempts to run, the shuffling, 
tumbling, and, finally, the rolling, of the ambitious contenders 
for the prize, afforded great enjoyment to the noisy crowd. 

Three or four fellows would undertake to run a race thi'oua'h 
several sugar-hogsheads, with both heads out, and placed end to 
end. The empty hogsheads commenced rolling to and fro, both 
to the dispersion and diversion of the excited multitude. Of 
course, this contrary hogshead affair ended in "noise and confu- 
sion," and the company waited impatiently for another source 
of hilarity ; when, lo and behold ! a wag would appear with a 
pot of hot mush, for the hungry fellow who would "gobble it 
up" faster than the rest; and the wry faces, distorted counte- 
nances, and tearful eyes, of the hungry eaters gave joy enough 
to all others present. 

Sometimes a hull-hait was introduced, for which the sudden 
disappearance of the women and the "small fry" made ample 
room. 

In 1739_ — one hundred and thirteen years ago, — St. Paul's 
Church was erected, on the west side of " the road leading out 
of town." Historians have stated that this venerable old edifice 
was almost the only building that escaped destruction from the 
conflagration of '76. All the combustible part of this church 
was consumed : the walls, however, remained as they arc now, 
alike uninjured by the destructive hand of Time, the raging of 
the devouring element, or the balls from Dunmore's. ordnance, — 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 61 

excepting tlie mark made by a cannon-shot, near one of the 
corners, and on the side facing the river, — another fit and 
lasting monument of British folly and oppression. The effect 
of this ball, by the way, was somewhat singular. It struck with 
very considerable force, about three feet below the eaves of the 
building, and about one foot from the southeastern corner of the 
eastern end, ranging with the easternmost wall, starting a por- 
tion of the masonry from its position, and leaving a perpendicular 
fissure of about two feet in length, at each end of which, as well 
as around the principal indentation, pieces of the bricks were 
displaced by the concussion. If the ball had struck only a few 
inches farther from the corner, of course it would not have ranged 
with the eastern wall, and it would, therefore, have gone entirely 
through. The portion of the masonry removed from its original 
place, and forming a part of the angle, looks as if a slight pres- 
sure would detach it entirely, and cause it to fall to the ground. 
Thus it has stood during the long interval of seventy-seven years, 
and so it will remain, it is probable, to be examined by the curious 
of coming generations. 

Formerly, it was thought that, when the ball struck; it had 
lodged in the wall, and was removed by some mischievous person 
shortly after the general conflagration, or had been displaced by 
the heating of the walls when the house was on fire and the interior 
destroyed. Several years ago, it occurred to Captain Seabury, an 
esteemed member of the vestry of the church, that it might be 
buried in the ground below the spot where it took effect. He accor- 
dingly set a man to work with a spade, and after a very short search 
a ball was found, corresponding in size with the concavity, and 
which is supposed to be the identical shot that struck the church. 
It weighs tAventy pounds and a half, and measures in diameter 
about five and a half inches ; but, as its size has been much 
diminished by corrosion, it is reasonable to suppose that it was 
a twenty-four pound shot, and about six inches in diameter. 

The venerable gentleman who brought this old revolutionary 
relic to light, developes the antiquarian propensities in his cha- 
racter by a commendable intention to have it permanently re- 
placed in its appropriate bed in the wall ; and he generally exe- 
cutes his plans. Nous verroiis. 



62 HISTORICAL AND 

The ground-plan of the buikling is in the shape of a Roman 
cross, — which it was intended by the designers to represent, — 
the four ends, pointing severally to the north, south, east, 
and west, — the easternmost wall, forming an angle with the 
enclosure and the western line of the street, presenting to the 
eye of the beholder an irregular and unsatisfying appearance. 
The roof is right-angled, and has now the third, or possibly the 
fourth, covering of shingles. The windows and doors are arched ; 
and there is a large circular Avindow above the entrance in the 
northern end, and also in the southern. The walls of this time- 
honoured structure, as well as of the enclosure of the burial- 
place attached, were built of very durable materials, and in the 
most substantial manner, — about every alternate brick in the 
building having the bluish, glazed appearance caused by extra 
heat in the kiln. 

Since this faithful old sentinel of other days and of other 
years, that have winged their rapid flight away, took its present 
position, three generations have passed ; and, unless it should be 
taken down to give place to a more modern structure, it will, in 
all probability, continue for ages yet to come. Like the sturdy 
old oak of the mountain, that defies the fury of the levelling 
tornado, and which has escaped the heavy strokes of the wood- 
man's axe, as well as the scathing thunderbolts of the God of 
Nature, or like the aged pilgrim, who has long survived all the 
rest of his generation, and who lingers, almost as a stranger, 
amid the changes and desolation around him, this ancient 
temple stands among the silent dead, — the mouldering remains 
of those who formerly assembled to worship within its conse- 
crated walls and make their vows at its altar; and it points 
gloomily, though significantly, to the men and the events of 
years that have gone by. 

" On it Time his mark has hung ; 
On it hostile balls have rung ; 
On it green old moss has clung ; 
On it winds their dirge have sung : 
Let us still adorn thy walls, 
Sacred temple, Old St. Paul's !" 

A few years subsequent to the Revolution, the interior of St. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 63 

Paul's Cburcli was rebuilt, and put in order for public worship. 
About twenty years ago, it was again repaired and improved ; 
and ten years since, under the direction of the Rev. Mr. Miller, 
then the resident pastor, and some of the members of his charge, 
the church was again improved ; a neat lecture-room was erected 
within the enclosure, and the grounds beautified with ornamental 
shade-trees, flowers, evergreens, gravel-walks, &c. It has more 
recently undergone thorough repairs ; and the interior now pre- 
sents a very neat and comfortable appearance. A new square 
belfry has also been erected in the northeastern angle. 

The Rev. Mr. Jackson is the present minister of this church. 
He is a most excellent preacher, a faithful pastor, and an esti- 
mable and devoted Christian gentleman, to whom the numerous 
members of his charge are greatly endeared.* 

St. Paul's having been built upon the principal avenue leading 
out into the country, gave to it the name of Church Street. 

Some have insisted that this old ante-revolutionary building 
should give place to another, more in keeping with the style of 
the age, and the improvements of the city : this change has been 
warmly opposed. Situated as it is, in immediate proximity to 
the business part of the city, it has also been whispered that the 
grounds connected with the church should be converted into a 
public square. This plan, how objectionable soever it might be 
to many, would not be without a precedent in other cities. The 
authorities very properly prohibited interments in the lot, many 
years ago. 

There are some circumstances connected with the history of 
this old sanctuary, which would prove interesting to the reader ; 
but having already continued the description farther than was 
intended, we shall pass them by for the present, not without 
alluding, however, to a diabolical plot, many years ago, to destroy 

* This church, and also Trinity, in Portsmouth, are strictly under the super- 
vision of the bishop, and are governed according to the old canonical la-ffs of 
the Protestant Episcopal Church of Virginia. For instance, the minister, after 
being once elected, remains during good behaviour, and he cannot be ejected 
unless he should be guilty of some gross violation of his clerical vows. 

Christ Church is an independent church, and is governed according to its 
own peculiar constitution ; nevertheless, in every other respect, it is regulated 
by the canons of the Episcopal Church. The minister and oiEcers are elected 
annually by the pew-holders, on the first Friday in November. 



64 HISTORICAL AND 

it, and involve the assembled congregation in ruin. The scheme 
was actually commenced, but fortunately discovered in time to 
prevent its consummation. 

A walk, or even a look within the walls of the grave-yard 
attached to this old church, is calculated to produce a train of 
solemn, if not painful reflections — to inspire the heart of the 
thoughtful man with melancholy feelings, — 

" The tombs 
And monumental caves of death look cold, 
And shoot a chillness to my trembling heart." 

The remains of many, very many, of those whom Time mowed 
down in the borough and vicinity, repose in that old " city of 
the dead," and there they have long and quietly slumbered, re- 
gardless of the anxious throngs that press by. There, in that 
densely stored repository of death, lie the tiny crumbling re- 
mains of the infant of a day, the once agile form of the stripling 
youth, the " sordid dust" of the strong man of middle age, and of 
those of threescore years and ten. Here sleep on profoundly, 

" The ancient venerable dead, 
Sages who wrote and warriors who bled." 

Concealed beneath the uneven sod are the earthly relics of 
many whose familiar voices were heard, and whose active forms 
were seen in the places now occupied by their living, thinking, 
dying descendants — not to be disturbed, it may be, but by the 
Archangel's loud trumpet blast. 

" Here friends and foes 
Lie close, iinmindful of their former feuds. 
The lawn-robed prelate, and plain presbyter, 
Erewhile that stood aloof, as shy to meet, 
Familiar mingle here, like sister streams 
That some rude, interposing rock had split. 

* * -;t * -x- 

Here are the prude severe, and gay coquette. 
The sober widow, and young green virgin. 
Cropped like a rose before 'tis fully blown, 
Or half its worth disclosed. Strange medley here ! 
Here garrulous old age winds up his tale ; 
And jovial youth, of lightsome vacant heart. 
Whose evei'y day was made of melody, 
Hears not the voice of mirth." 



DESCmPTIVE SKETCHES. 65 



CHAPTER V. 

1746—1765. 

Celebration of the Defeat of the Pretender— Privileges of the Borough enlarged 

Court-house and Prison — Actof Assembly relative to Ferries — Talbot Street 

—Captain Talbot's Property — Foot-bridge— Grave-yard— Human Bones — 
Reflections. 

1746, July 23d. The inhabitants on this day manifested their 
loyalty by celebrating the defeat of the Pretender, by his Royal 
Highness, the Duke of Cumberland, at the battle of Culloden, 
fought April 6th of this year. 

They had an eflfigy of the Pretender, seated in an armed chair, 
Avhich was placed in a cart. A procession was then formed in the 
following order : — Three drummers, a piper, three violinists, six 
men Avith rods, sashes, and significant mottoes ; a nurse, carry- 
ing a warming pan with a child peeping out of it ; the Pretender 
in the cart ; six men with drawn cutlasses ; and a vast crowd of 
people of the town and country. 

After the procession had marched through the principal streets, 
the efEgy was hung, and liquor was provided in plentiful quantities. 
Salutes were fired, at night the town was illuminated, the effigy 
burnt, the ladies were entertained with a ball, " and the evening 
concluded with innocent mirth and unaifected joy, becoming a 
people loyal to their king, and zealous for their country's good." 

In 1752 the privileges of the Borough were enlarged by Act 
of Assembly. Provision Avas also made for the raising of money 
to build a court-house and prison. 

Extract of an Act of the Assembly of Virginia, passed in 17-57. 

" Section 1. Whereas it hath been represented to this General 
Assembly by the inhabitants of the County and Borough of Nor- 



66 HISTORICAL AND 

folk, tliat on the branches of Elizabeth River and Tanner's 
Creek in the said county, there are five public ferries, over one 
of which most of the inhabitants are obliged to pass in order to 
get to church, court, and general muster, and that by expenses 
of ferriages, many poor j^Qople are prevented from bringing their 
small wares and commodities to the market of the said Borough. 
Be it therefore enacted, &c., that the Justices of the Court of 
the County of Norfolk for the time being, be, and they are hereby 
empowered, and required, to appoint, contract, and agree with 
proper persons to keep the said ferries, and to levy the expense 
thereof upon the tithable inhabitants of the said county annually 
at the laying of the county levy. 

" Section 2. — That every person appointed to keep the said 
ferries shall constantly keep such boats and hands as the said 
court shall from time to time order and direct, to be kept at the 
said ferries respectively, and shall give immediate passage over 
the said ferries to all the inhabitants of the said county without 
any fee or reward. 

" Section 3. — That such ferry-keepers shall and may demand 
and receive from persons not being inhabitants of the said county 
of Norfolk, the following rates, that is to say, for a man, four 
pence ; for a horse, the same ; on every coach, chariot, or wagon 
and the driver thereof, the same as for six horses ; for every cart 
or four-wheel chaise, and the driver thereof, as for four horses ; 
for every two-wheel chair, or chaise, the same as two horses ; for 
every hogshead of tobacco, the same as one horse," &c. 

In 1765, Talbot Street (twenty-six feet wide, and which now 
extends north from Main, near Market Square, to William's Street, 
at the City Hall Square), was opened by Captain Talbot, the 
proprietor of the land, one of the most respectable and opulent 
citizens, from whom it took its name, and whose heirs are still 
the owners of a large portion of the property thereon. This 
street soon became and continued for some time the most fashion- 
able thoroughfare in the town. Captain T. built upon it large and 
commodious houses ; it was the first street paved in the borough ; 
and, being one of the principal avenues to the Market Place 
(Bank and Granby Streets were not opened for many years after 
this), a number of the most respectable and fashionable citizens 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 67 

resided on it.* At its northern terminus, there was a foot-bridge, 
which extended across the cove, to tlic land between Cove Street 
and Williamson's Lane, and east of Avon Street. At the corner 
of Main and Talbot Streets was situated Captian Talbot's store ; 
in the rear of which, and extending back to the marsh, he had a 
warehouse. 

Many years before Talbot Street was opened, a portion of the 
land over which it extends, and on the east side, near its north 
end (part of which is now enclosed, and included in the City 
Hall Square), reaching as far as the site of the City Prison, and 
formerly that of Avon Theatre, was a grave-yard ; sufficient evi- 
dences of which were exhibited while making the public improve- 
ments at that location. Portions of the slowly mouldering 
remains of the unknown dead, that have lain there for ages undis- 
turbed, — human skulls and other bones of different sizes — have 
been dug up from their concealment, and exposed to the thoughtful 
gaze of the inquisitive denizens of the present day. The old 
enclosure gradually decayed, and piece by piece fell down and 
disappeared, or was torn off and removed by sacrilegious hands. 
The vernal tides came up and blasted the green grass and gentle 
flowers that were wont to adorn those graves. The tombstones 
sank down beneath the slow, but heavy tread of Time. These 
too, were removed, and the " monumental caves of death" filled 
up. The footprints of the careless passenger were seen there. 
Names, and titles, and deeds, good and bad, are forgotten. At 
least one old grave-stone should have been spared, to serve as a 
silent monitor to succeeding generations of the vanity of all 
earthly things ; and under its old inscription should have been 
deeply engraved, " s«c transit gloria mundi.'' But 

" The time draws on 
When not a single spot of burial earth, 
Whether on land or on the spacious sea, 
But must give back its long-committed dust 
Inviolate : and faithfully shall these 
Make up the full account ! not the least atom 

* The property on the west side of this street, and extending from Main to 
Williams Street, remains in the Talbot family ; and the enterprising and respected 
heirs have had it improved in handsome style, by the erection of a long row of 
beautiful buildings. 



68 HISTORICAL AND 

Embezzled or mislaid of the whole tale. 
Each soul shall have a body ready furnished; 
And each shall have his own. 

* «• -x- * * 

When the dread trump shall sound, the slumbering dust. 
Not unattentive to the call, shall wake ; 
And every joint possess its proper place, 
With a new elegance of form, unknown 
To its first state." 



CHAPTER VI. 

1766—1768. 

Protest of the People against the Stamp Act— The Sons of Liberty, and their 
Patriotic Proceedings— ^lembers' Names— Descendants— Imports of Virginia 
— A Curiosity — The Revolution and its Calamities. 

The people of Norfolk and its vicinity were among the first 
and the boldest to protest against the Stamp Act, and to assert 
on the broadest grounds the rights of the Colony. Accordingly, 
on March 31, 1766, a number of the inhabitants of the town and 
county of Norfolk assembled at the Court-house, and an associa- 
tion called " The Sons of Liberty," was duly organized. 

The patriotic object of this society was, to oppose, by all 
suitable means, that detestable Act, and to unite with others in 
the country, in a dignified and determined efibrt to prevent the 
operation of a measure so manifestly unconstitutional and oppres- 
sive. 

The Rev. Thomas Davis was chosen moderator, and James 
Holt and Wm. Roscoe Curie, secretaries. The following preamble 
and resolutions were adopted, and fifty-seven individuals, of pure 
and unsullied patriotism, in order to show to that and to future 
generations their faithful devotion to the cause of liberty, signed 
the manly protest. These proceedings of the Sons of Liberty 
have been carefully preserved among the archives of Norfolk as 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 69 

a " monument of their patriotic spirit and love to their country." 
The following is a copy : 

" Having taken into Considerations the evident Tendency of 
that oppressive and unconstitutional Act of Parliament, com- 
monly called the Stamp Act, and being desirous that our senti- 
ments should be known to Posterity ; and recollecting that we 
are a Part of that Colony who first in General Assembly openly 
expressed their Detestation to the said Act (which is pregnant 
with Ruin, and productive of the most pernicious Consequences), 
and unwilling to rivet the Shackles of Slavery and Oppression 
on ourselves and Millions yet unborn, have unanimously come to 
the following Resolutions : 

" 1. Resolved, That we acknowledge our Lord and Sovereign, 
King George the Third, to be our rightful and lawful King, and 
that we will, at all ti^es, to the utmost of our Power and Ability, 
support and defend his most sacred Person, Crown, and Dignity ; 
and shall be always ready, when constitutionally called upon, to 
assist his said Majesty, with our Lives and fortunes ; and to de- 
fend all his Just Rights and Prerogatives. 

" 2. Resolved, That we will by all lawful Ways and Means 
which Divine Providence has put into our hands, defend ourselves 
in the full enjoyment of, and preserve inviolate to Posterity, 
those inestimable Privileges of all freeborn British Subjects of 
being taxed only by Representatives of their own Choosing ; and 
of being tryed by none but a Jury of their peers. And that if we 
quietly submit to the Execution of the said Stamp Act, all our 
Claims to civil Liberty will be lost, and we and our Posterity 
become absolute Slaves. For, by that Act, British Subjects in 
America are deprived of the invaluable Privileges aforemen- 
tioned. 

" 3. Resolved, That a committee be appointed, who shall in 
such manner as they shall think most proper, go upon necessary 
Business and make public the above Resolutions, and that they 
correspond as they shall see Occasion with the Associated Sons 
of, and Friends to. Liberty, in the other British Colonies in 
America. 

Ja. Holt, Henry Tucker, 

Thos. Davis, Maxln. Calvert, 



70 



HISTOEICAL AND 



Robt. Tucker, 
Jas. Parker, 
Robt. Tucker, Jun., 
Jno. Hutchings, 
Lewis Hansford, 
Jno. Hutchings, Jun., 
Paul Loyall, 
Will. Roscoe Curie, 
Antby. Lawson, 
Jos. Hutchings, 
Thos. Newton, Sen., 
Jno. Phripp, Jun., 
John Ramsay, 
John Gilchrist, 
Matthew Godfrey, 
Matthew Phripp, 
Thos. Newton, Jr., 
Saml. Boush, 
Richd. Knight, 
James Campbell, 
John Lawrence, 
Joshua Nickolson, 
Nicholas "Wonycott, 
Matthw. Rothery, 
Jacob Ellegood, 
Cornelius Calvert, 
Edward Archer, 



Edward Voss, 
Eras. Peart, 
Samuel Calvert, 
Ja. Gibson, 
Nicholas Winterton^ 
Griffin Peart, 
Jno. Wilson, 
Wm. Skinker, 
Thos. Butt, 
Wm. Gray, 
Hudson Brown, 
John Taylor, 
Alexander Moseley, 
Jno. Taylor, Jr., 
William Calvert, 
Willm. Aitcheson, 
Edward Hack. Moseley, Jr., 
Wm. Hancock, 
Robt. Brett, 
Stephen Tankard, 
Thos. Willoughby, 
James Dunn, 
John Cramond, 
Alexr. Kincaid, 
George Muter, 
Chrisr. Calvert." 



There were other resolutions, unanimously passed, in which 
the most spirited and patriotic sentiments were embodied. The 
Stamp Act, the result of a strange freak of a misguided though 
powerful nation — that precipitate measure, which, from its gross 
injustice, proved worse than a failure, but which thereby gave 
a wonderful and most desirable turn to the affairs of the world — 
that miserable and mistaken policy of Great Britain, was de- 
nounced in terms of merited severity. And the noble-souled Sons 
of Liberty, in their firm determination to assist in preventing it 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 71 

from going into operation, agreed, if necessary, to " sacrifice 
their lives and their fortunes.'' 

With regard to the members of this patriotic association, a 
learned gentleman, formerly of this city, remarks as follows : 

" The two immediate descendants of Paul Loyall and Thomas 
Newton represented the Norfolk District in Congress for thirty- 
seven consecutive years ; the same gentlemen, and another de- 
scendant of Thomas Newton, represented the borough of Norfolk 
in the General Assembly twelve oV more years. The name of 
Calvert is no longer known as a surname ; but his blood runs in 
a numerous and reputable posterity, some of whom are among 
the most active business men and public-spirited citizens. James 
Parker was the ancestor of the mayor of the town in 1806, I be- 
lieve, and -with him, I presume, the present family of Parkers, 
formerly of Isle of Wight, are connected collaterally. If Colonel 
Josiah Parker of Isle of Wight is the son of James Parker, 
the fact would appear that three of the descendants of the Sons 
of Liberty represented your District in Congress for almost the 
first consecutive half century after the adoption of the Federal 
Constitution. The surname of Ramsay no longer exists in Norfolk ; 
but the Steeds, among others, are of his race. A former dele- 
gate to the Assembly from Norfolk, but who, to the great regret 
of all, died before taking his seat, was named John Ramsay 
Steed. The surname of Joseph Hutchings is extinct ; but the 
most efficient Register of your city bears not only the whole name 
and the blood of his ancestor, but reflects credit upon them.* A 
descendant of LaAvson I have not seen for some years ; there 
are no doubt some of the race now living in Princess Anne. 
The Boush family is known to all. The Phripps I have never 
known ; I hope, hoAvever, the name exists within the four coun- 
ties, as it was borne by two patriots at a portentous period. 
Gilchrist and Lawrence are names not now known ; some of 
our elder citizens may be able to trace the stock. I con- 
fess it is with pain that I cannot point to a male descendant 
of Lewis Hansford. The late Dr. Hansford, a practising phy- 

* Joseph H. Robertson, Esq., attorney at law, a most ready, forcible, and 
attractive speaker, and for a number of years the faithful and systematic in- 
cumbent of the responsible office mentioned. 



72 HISTORICAL AND 

sician and an accomiolislied gentleman, was the last of the name 
in active life. He died in middle age, about the year 1822, 
leaving two sons, one of whom, Casey, a promising youth, died 
before he reached maturity, a midshipman in the navy ; the other 
resides in Philadelphia. 

" One of the representatives in the late Convention, Tazewell 
Taylor,* represents the Taylors and the Tuckers ; and, if the 
late General Taylor be sprung from those of his name in the 
proceedings, the genealogy of the Sons of Liberty will receive 
one of its most splendid illustrations. When we regard the 
number and character of the posterity of the Sons of Liberty, it 
might Avell happen, that, if a great crisis in affairs were imminent, 
and a chairman of a public meeting were called upon to appoint 
a committee of citizens for the emergency, he would be apt to 
select some of the descendants of the Sons of Liberty to fill the 
important trust committed to their fathers. 

" Hence it will appear that the posterity of the old inhabitants, 
in spite of the invitations to go abroad, Avhich federal legislation 
for fifty years past has held out, still cling to the home of their 
ancestry. Some have gone abroad, and founded families ; but 
the old patriarch would tell his children of his early and distant 
home. 

" Et dulces nioriens reminiscitur Argos." 

1768. "A Curiosity. — The following is a copy of a bill 
recently found among the papers of one of our old citizens. 
The charges for tailoring eighty years ago contrast strangely 
with the prices now charged. $2 75 for making a coat and 
vest ! and $1 67 per yard for cloth ! — but it did not pay duty 
then, and was probably equal to what is charged $4 00 for now. 
But the trimmings, — $1: 54 ! Didn't the tailors in those days 

* Tazewell Taylor, Esq., attorney at law, of this city, has long since acquired 
judicial distinction. His knowledge of the science of law is extensive and 
thorough. From an early period, he has devoted himself with great assiduity 
to the study and practice of his profession, which, with the advantage of an 
active and vigorous mind, and a ready delivery, have combined to render him 
deservedly successful and popular as an advocate; while his experience in 
jurisprudence is considered inferior to that of but few in the State. 



/ 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 



73 



know how to charge for them ? More than one-third the cost 
of cloth and making !" — Herald. 



Mr. John Batns To Young 

To 3 yards Brown Cloth, at 10s., 
To 3J yards Shalloon, at 2s. M., 
To 3^ yards Lining, at Is. Grf., . 
To 14 yards Binding, at 3t7., 
To Buckram, Silk, and Twist, . 
To Thread, Buttons, and Oznaburgs, 
To making Coat and Jacket, 





September 3(1, 1708 


& Smith, 


£ s. 


Du. 

d. 




1 10 







9 


4 




5 


g 




3 


6 




4 







.5 


2 




16 


G 



3 13 9 



Norfolk Borough, sc. : 
The above account of three pounds, thirteen shillings, and nine pence, 
proved by the oath of John Smith. 



Geo. Abyvon. 



September 24tb, 1770. 



1769. Imports of Virginia, principally of the port of Nor- 
folk, ^851,000. 

We now approach an eventful era in the history of Norfolk 
and vicinity, as well as that of the entire country,— the trying 
yet glorious period of the great conflict with the power of 
Britain ; — years that were dark and gloomy indeed, and still not 
causing despair. 

As before intimated, our town was thriving and prosperous 
enough until the commencement of this important and unequal 
contest. And how sudden was the change ! how soon were a 
thousand hopes disappointed, and the brightest prospects blasted ! 
— one day presenting the appearance of wealth and prosperity, 
and inspiring the most confident hopes of future greatness, and, 
ere the dawn of the next, a heap of smouldering ruins ! 



■/ 



74 HISTOllICALAND 

CHAPTER VII. 

1775—1776. 

Lord Dunmore — Preparations for War — The Battle of the Great Bridge — 
Gloi'ious Victory — Heroism and Generosity of the Virginians — Miss Polly 
Miller — Officers, &c., who were in the Battle at the Bridge. 

1775. Lord Dunmore, on hearing of the -warlike prepara- 
tions that had been made in this part of the State, directed 
special attention to Norfolk. He erected batteries, threw up 
entrenchments, furnished the blacks and tories with arms and 
ammunition, concentrated a considerable military force here, 
and ordered the farmers to send in provisions. 

" The government of Virginia despatched, with all speed, 
a detachment of minute-men, under the command of Colonel 
Woodford, into the county." Dunmore, with but little delay, 
took a strong position at the Great Bridge, then a thriving vil- 
lage, situated about ten miles from the town, and which took its 
name from the brido;e over the southern branch of the Elizabeth. 
" This point was upon the direct route of the provincial troops. 
Here he threw up works on the Norfolk side, and furnished them 
with a numerous artillery. The entrenchments were surrounded 
on every part with water and marshes, and were only accessible 
by a long dike. . . . The Virginians took post over against the 
English, at cannon-shot distance. Before them they had a long, 
narrow dike, the extremity of which they also fortified. In this 
state the two parties remained for several days, without making 
any movement." 

"Lord Dunmore," says the Virginia Gazette, " had erected 
his fort in such a manner that his cannon commanded the cause- 
way on his own side, and the bridges between him and us, with 
the marshes around him." The causeway to our camp was also 
commanded by the enemy's cannon. 

" The causeway on our side, in length, was about one hundred 
and sixty yards, and on the hither extremity our breastwork was 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 75 

thrown up. From the breastwork ran a street, gradually* ascend- 
in o-, about the length of four hundred yards, to a church, where 
our main body was encamped." 

It appears that Dunraore had been induced to believe, by 
stratagem, that there were only about three hundred shirt-men 
(as the Virginians, who wore a kind of hunting-shirt, were often 
called); and he despatched to the bridge about two hundred 
regular soldiers and three or four hundred blacks and tories. 
Meanwhile, the news of these Avarlike preparations spread in 
every direction ; and a number of patriotic individuals hastened 
to the battle-ground, carrying such arms and ammunition as 
they could procure with the least possible delay. From different 
sections of Norfolk, Princess Anne, and Nansemond Counties, 
active and heroic young men, middle-aged and old men, even of 
threescore years and more, shouldered their muskets, rifles, or 
fowling-pieces, hurried on to the scene of danger, and rallied 
nobly around the standard of liberty. 

" On Saturday, the 9th of December, the enemy crossed the 
bridge, fired the remaining houses, and attacked our guard in 
the breastwork. Our men returned the fire, and threw them 
into some confusion ; but they were instantly rallied by Captain 
Fordyce, and advanced along the causeway with great resolution, 
keeping up a constant and heavy fire as they approached. Two 
field-pieces, whicK had been brought across the bridge and placed 
on the edge of the island, played briskly at the same time upon 
us. Lieutenant Travis, who commanded in the breastwork, 
ordered his men to reserve their fire until the enemy came 
within fifty yards, and then they gave it to them with terrible 
execution. The brave Fordyce exerted himself to keep up their 
spirits, reminded them of their ancient glory, and, waving his 
hat over his head encouragingly, told them the day ivas their 
own. Thus pressing forward, he fell, within fifteen steps of the 
breastwork. His wounds were many ; and his death would have 
been that of a hero, had he met it in a better cause. The pro- 
gress of the enemy was now at an end. They retreated over 
the causeway with precipitation, and were dreadfully galled in 
the rear. 

" Hitherto, on our side, only the guard, consisting of twenty- 



76 HISTOKICALAND 

five, and some others, — in the whole, not amounting to more 
than ninety, — had been engaged. Only the regulars of the 
I4th regiment, in number one hundred and twenty, had ad- 
vanced upon the causeway ; and about two hundred and thirty 
negroes and tories had, after crossing the bridge, continued 
upon the island. The regulars, after retreating along the cause- 
way, were again rallied by Captain Leslie, and the two field- 
pieces continued playing upon our men. It was at this time 
that Colonel Woodford was advancing down the street, to the 
breastwork, with the main body, and against him was now 
directed the whole fire of the enemy. Never were cannon 
better served ; yet, in the face of them and the musketry, which 
kept up a continual blaze, our men marched on with the utmost 
intrepidity. Colonel Stevens, of the Culpeper battalion, was 
sent round to the left to flank the enemy, which was done with 
so much spirit and activity that a rout immediately ensued. 
The enemy fled into their fort, leaving behind them the two 
field-pieces, which, however, they took care to spike. 

" Many were killed and wounded in the flight ; but Colonel 
Woodford very prudently restrained his troops from pursuing 
the enemy too far. From the beginning of the attack till the 
repulse at the breastwork might be fourteen or fifteen minutes ; 
till the total defeat, upwards of half an hour. It is said that 
some of the enemy preferred death to captivity, from fear of 
being scalped, which Lord Dunmore cruelly told them would be 
their fate, should they be taken alive. Thirty-one, killed and 
wounded, fell into our hands ; and the number borne off was 
much greater. Through the whole engagement, every officer 
and soldier behaved with the greatest calmness and courage. 
The conduct of our sentinels I cannot pass over in silence. 
Before they quitted their stations, they fired at least three 
rounds as the enemy were crossing the bridge ; and one of 
them, posted behind some shingles, kept his ground till he had 
fired eight times, and, after he had received the fire of a whole 
platoon, made his escape across the causeway to our breastwork. 
The scene was concluded with as much humanity as it was con- 
ducted with bravery. The work of death being over, every 
one's attention was directed to the succour of the unhappy 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 77 

I 

sufferers ; and it is an undoubted fact that Captain Leslie "svas 
so affected -with the attention of our troops to those capable of 
assistance, that he gave signs from the fort of his thankfulness. 
What is not paralleled in history, and will scarcely be credible, 
except to such as acknowledge a Providence over human affairs, 
— this victory was gained at the expense of no more than a 
slight wound in a soldier s hand; and one circumstance that 
renders it still more amazing is that the field-pieces raked the 
whole length of the street, and absolutely threw double-headed 
shot as far as the church, and afterwards, as our troops ap- 
proached, cannonaded them heavily with grape-shot. 
****** 
" Several of our soldiers ran through a hot fire, to lift up and 
bring in some that were bleeding, and who they feared would 
die, if not speedily assisted by the surgeon. The prisoners ex- 
pected to be scalped, and cried out, ' For God sake, do not mur- 
der us !' One of them, unable to walk, cried out in this manner 
to one of our men, and was answered by him, ' Put your arm 
around my neck, and I will show you what I intend to do.' Then 
taking him, with his arm over his neck, he walked slowly on, 
bearing him along with great tenderness to the breastwork. 
Captain Leslie, seeing two of our soldiers tenderly moving a 
wounded regular from the bridge, stepped upon the platform of 
the fort, and bowing with great respect, thanked them for their 
kindness. These are instances of a noble disposition of soul. 
Men who can act thus must be invincible." 

Truly, indeed, and most justly, may it be said of the conduct 
of the Virginians on that occasion, that they manifested a "noble 
disposition of soul ;" added unfading honour to our arms, and 
undying glory to the State and to the Union. And most true 
it is, also, that men who can act thus cannot be conquered ; for, 
as in other cases during that struggle for freedom, an unseen 
power and an influence from above, more powerful than all the 
dread engines of death, were present, to protect and " save to 
the uttermost" the heroes who fought and conquered in Liberty's 
holy cause. 

There resided at the Great Bridge, in Revolutionary days, an 
active, energetic, and patriotic female, who was long known 



78 HISTORICAL AND , 

as 3Hss Polly Millet' ; and who, notwithstanding some eccentri- 
cities that marked her life, is well entitled to notice, for her kind 
and diligent attention to our men. 

"It would be the very acme of injustice," said one who knew 
her, " to consign the memory of this heroine to dull forgetful- 
ness, without a scratch of the pen to perpetuate her name, and 
record her extraordinary merit and good qualities. 

>K ^ ;}; >^ >f; * ^ 

" Her services in behalf of her country, during the struggle 
for independence, deserve the highest strains of eulogy ; for 
having naturally a love of freedom, she took a decided stand on 
the side of her country. The bustle of war having penetrated 
as far as the Great Bridge, she had often an opportunity of mi- 
nistering to the wants of her countrymen in arms, and affording 
them aid and comfort whenever an exigency required. The de- 
feat of the British, who were sent to dislodge the Americans 
from their post at the Great Bridge, and the fall of their leader, 
the gallant Captain Fordyce, are circumstances well known. On 
this occasion our heroine was not inactive ; she ordered refresh- 
ments for the soldiers after the battle, and took charge of the 
wounded men, whose wounds she dressed and attended to until 
they were cured. Indeed, it is asserted that she saved the lives 
of more than half a dozen. Her generosity and patriotism ac- 
quired her great celebrity, so that her house soon became the 
resort of all who travelled that way." She lived to rejoice at 
the success of our arms at the celebrated battle of Craney Island, 
nearly forty years after the victory at the Bridge, and died Feb. 
1st, 1814, aged 73. 

In addition to the officers named, who were at this battle, 
were Major John Marshall, Lieutenant Travis, and others, from 
the counties of Orange, Culpeper, Fauquier, &c. There were 
also Captain Thomas Nash, some of whose respected descendants 
now reside in the city, and who was highly spoken of as an un- 
flinching patriot and accomplished gentleman. There were also 
William Porter and John Brannam (the latter was afterwards at 
the battle of the Cowpens), John Brooks (who is still living), and 
others of Portsmouth and vicinity. There were there, also, from 
the counties of Norfolk and Princess Anne, Jonathan Denby, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 79 

Billy Flora (the man that fired eight times from the pile of 
shingles, and made his escape so wonderfully), the Butts, INIillers, 
Talbots, Etherages, Wattses, Ilodgeses, Culpepcrs, Sykoses, 
Taylors, Tatcms, Owenses, Grimeses, Lukes, Woodhouses, White- 
hursts, Drewreys, Foremans, Moorcs, Wrights, Wilsons, Her- 
berts, Wilkinses, &e. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

1776. 

Sufferings of Captain Nash and other ReYolutionary Patriots — Lord Dimmoreon 
Shipboard — Colonel Woodford — Dunmore's Rage, Arrogance, and Threats — 
Tories and Slaves — Their Miserable Condition — Norfolk Cannonaded — Mis- 
statements Corrected— Cornstalk, the Sharpshooter — The Town Burned by 
the Citizens and Soldiers— Woodford Fires upon the British Fleet— Awful 
Conflagration — Patriotism— Battles— A Sad Contrast — Loss and Distress — 
The Site of Norfolk Abandoned, and the Silence of Gloomy Depopulation 
Eeigns. 

Some of the noble souls who fought and acted a brave and in- 
dependent part in the cause of liberty, during these trying revo- 
lutionary days, were subjected to the greatest hardships and 
privations ; their suiTerings indeed, in some cases, were intole- 
rable, and justly called forth the severest denunciations from the 
inhabitants. That fearless patriot and gentlemanly soldier, 
Captain Nash, and six or eight of his fellow-soldiers, were con- 
fined for months in the old sugar-house on the Portsmouth side, 
and compelled to endure the cruelties and oppression which some 
of the British officers delighted to inflict upon the Americans. 
Their food was of the coarsest and most common kind, while the 
place of confinement Avas exceedingly loathsome and disagree- 
able. They were removed from the old sugar-house to Corn- 
wallis's prison-ship, at York, and confined in the hold among a 
number of men of the meanest and most degraded character. 
Their fare, companions, and all the circumstances attending their 
confinement were most revolting. When they were liberated 



80 HISTORICAL AND 

from the old floating dungeon, their condition was in the highest 
degree pitiable and humiliating. When Captain N. made his 
appearance on deck, the only remaining portion of his shirt was 
the ruffles at the wrist ; and, in addition to being almost suffo- 
cated with foul air, and horrified at the fiendish propensities of 
some of the prisoners, he was tormented with vermin, and half 
dead from the want of wholesome food and water. Think of 
these things, ye favoured sons and daughters of freed and re- 
publican America ! Ponder on them in these bright and pfos- 
perous and peaceful days ! 

At an early period of the Revolution, Dunmore had fled to the 
British fleet, which was for some time in Norfolk harbour. A few 
days after the enemy had been so signally routed in the battle 
of the Great Bridge, the Virginians, commanded by Colonel 
Woodford, arrived at Norfolk. They ridiculed and vexed the 
remaining loyalists ; fired upon the vessels, from the houses on 
the wharves, and endeavoured to prevent the British troops from 
landing for sport and recreation, and for the purpose of foraging 
in the country. Dunmore raved like a madman. He swore he 
would hang the boy that brought the news of the defeat at the 
Bridge ! He informed the soldiers that they must cease firing, 
and the citizens that they must furnish him with provisions, or 
he would bombard the town ; but his arrogant menaces were dis- 
regarded. Meanwhile his troops, with the tories and slaves who 
had sought his protection, were starving for provisions. His 
lordship at length determined to drive out the patriotic inhabi- 
tants with artillery, and, therefore, directed the women and chil- 
dren to leave. 

1776, Jan. 1st. Between the hours of three and four o'clock 
in the afternoon, a heavy cannonade was commenced upon the 
town. It has been published by historians and others, that the 
British, "under cover of their guns," on this day "burned the 
town;" and some have also declared, that the place was set on 
fire by the tories. It has been said, likewise, that the enemy 
commenced the work of wholesale destruction, and the citizens, 
to prevent them from enjoying the pleasure of burning their fro- 
ferty, put the torch thereto themselves ; Avhile there are many 
who assert that the place was burned by the inhabitants, to pre- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 81 

vent tlie British from quartering here. These statements of this 
important affair, it will be seen, are contradictory, if not unrea- 
sonable. Dunmore and his troops were without provisions. 
They were suffering from the want of bread to eat, and fresh air 
to breathe. His object was to quarter his troops in the town, 
and feed them upon the substance of the people. How could 
this be accomplished by burning all the houses and the goods 
they contained ? Besides, a portion of the property was owned 
by English and Scotch factors or agents, some of whom were 
tories, who had fled to the fleet for safety. Their influence was, 
doubtless, exerted against any design to fire the place. The 
tories remaining in the town did not set fire to their property, 
because they desired the place to afford shelter and accommoda- 
tion to the enemy; and, in fact, the most of them had joined 
Dunmore's troops on board the ships. And, it is by no means 
probable that the inhabitants could, as a general plan, have acted 
so strangely as to put the torch to their dwellings and stores, 
merely to prevent the British from having the pleasure of it. 
His lordship threatened more than he ever executed, or intended 
to execute. He may have declared, as has been stated by some, 
that he would bombard and burn Norfolk ; but a careful inquiry, 
relative to the facts of the affair, does not justify the belief that 
he did either ; nor is it probable that he intended either. That 
" a heavy cannonade from the frigate Liverpool, two sloops of 
war, and the ship Dunmore, opened against the town," is not 
doubted ; living witnesses testify to that, and old St. Paul's is a 
witness that cannot be set aside ; bearing substantial, though 
silent evidence, that balls were thrown, and with very conside- 
rable force; but it is very evident they were not bombs.* 

The tories, moreover, had too much property here to be wil- 
lingly sacrificed, and neither they, nor their regal governor, 
wished it destroyed or injured. But, it may be asked, why then 
was the town fired during the cannonade ? and what ground is 
there for the statement that the British put the incendiary's 
torch to the houses ? The circumstances attending the occasion 
were singular ; and, it is believed, by no means satisfactory to 

* The author is aware that it is doubted that St. Paul's Church was struck 
on this occasion. 

6 



82 HISTORICAL AND 

the enemy, wlio probably supposed that, as soon as the guns 
opened upon the place, the inhabitants would leave it, and all it 
contained, to their mercy and for their benefit. 

It is quite evident that at, or more probably just before, the 
commencement of the firing from the ships, a small company 
was sent on shore to burn some stores on the wharf nearest the 
fleet, in order to deprive the patriots of a shelter from which to 
fire upon the ships ; for Dunmore had been greatly annoyed by 
the sharpshooting of our men from both sides of the river, and 
he was obliged, for fear of getting aground, to keep his crowded 
ships in the channel of the river. By the way, there was a tall, 
fierce-looking rifleman, who was exceedingly fond of shooting at 
the "red-coats" on board the vessels. He aimed with extraor- 
dinary precision, and seldom missed his mark. This was his 
employment and amusement by day, and sometimes by night. 
He was called Cortistalk, the name of an Indian warrior of the 
Shawanee tribe, also celebrated for being a superior marksman. 
Cornstalk would take his station on the shore, and remain con- 
cealed, until some unfortunate fellow would appear upon the 
poop deck, or in some position where he could be plainly seen. 
Then, the sharp sound of the rifle would be quickly succeeded 
by a scream, or a groan, and then a tumble, and a few convul- 
sive struggles, and, with the victim, all of this life was over. 
This was, of course, a very vexatious business to Dunmore, and 
all others concerned with him. 

It has been stated, too, that the fire was communicated from 
the buildings on the wharf to those of the town, by reason 
of a strong wind that blew. This is not probable, for the pre- 
vailing winds in winter are not from a southerly direction, al- 
though the flames might have spread from the stores farther 
than the British expected. But it is true that, as soon as the 
firing commenced from the guns of the ships, or immediately 
thereafter, flames " were seen to shoot up in several parts of the 
town." 

Another statement was, that Norfolk was burnt by direction 
of the Virginia Committee of Safety ; this is also doubted. The 
Safety Committee gravely proposed to desolate the borough of 
Norfolk, the town of Portsmouth, and the entire counties of Nor- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 83 

folk and Princess Anne, and thus effectually starve the British 
out. This plan, necessary as it may have seemed, met with 
considerable opposition on the part of the citizens, the tories 
especially, and it was abandoned. We have been informed also 
that Congress had directed the property to be valued and burned, 
to prevent the enemy from finding shelter and accommodation 
here ; and that the court met, and properly arranged the whole 
affair. This appears, also, to be without foundation. 

The A^irginians, commanded by Colonel Woodford, who had 
come to Norfolk by order of General Howe, were of course spi- 
rited, if not enthusiastic, after the famous victory at the Bridge. 
Woodford determined to fire upon the fleet, formidable as it was ; 
but, from the favourable position occupied by the vessels for 
raking the streets and lanes — the town being only a few feet 
above the level of the river — it was necessary for the Virginians 
to take a position at some distance from the wharf. Therefore, 
to remove the obstructions to the view, and to the execution of 
the balls from our cannon, and in order also, to deprive the 
enemy of quarters and provisions, many of the buildings were 
fired by the soldiers and patriotic citizens ; and the flames spread- 
ing in every direction, the destruction was, at once, awful, rapid, 
and complete. 

The following remarks are the most recent we have seen rela- 
tive to this subject : — 

" Lord Dunmore, to shelter his shipping from the deadly aim 
of the A%ginia riflemen, who ensconced themselves behind the 
houses on the wharves, set fire to and destroyed that part of the 
town, which enabled their people to land, and possess themselves 
of comfortable quarters in the upper part. Seeing this, the com- 
mander of the Virginia troops resolved to dispossess them, and 
accordingly set fire to and destroyed the remainder of the town. 
It is true that the State paid the owners for their property, but 
with depreciated paper money, which was equivalent to a total 
loss ; and compensation is still due for the calamity which she 
had brought upon her citizens — if not to those who had long ago 
gone to their account, it is due to their successors, and could not 
be more gracefully and appropriately recognised by the State, 



84 HISTORICAL AND 

than by ministering to their prosperity by acts of wholesome 
legislation." 

Many of the inhabitants occupied and owned costly, elegantly- 
furnished, and commodious residences, with fine gardens, and 
every convenience that wealth could procure. Among these 
were Dr. Ramsay, and other devoted old patriots, some of whose 
names are connected with the proceedings of the Sons of Liberty. 
The fire was a great, though necessary, calamity ; yet it was 
borne Avith astonishing fortitude by a large portion of the citizens. 
There was a brave and unflinching patriot — an uncompromis- 
ing enemy to the British, and whose hatred for a tory was rather 
more inveterate than for any other living animal — who was play- 
ing at billiards in a house which stood near "West's Corner" 
(now opposite the National Hotel), when the firing from Dun- 
more's ships commenced. He hurried home, quickly put the 
torch to his own buildings ; and, having confined a quantity of 
hogs in the cellar of one of his houses, to prevent the British 
from eating them, he cheerfully went to work, with the rest of 
the citizens after the conflagration, to procure shelter and pro- 
visions for himself and family as best he could. 

Dunmore and his troops were sadly disappointed, no doubt, 
at such rebellious and unexpected proceedings. " The old 
borough was too republican for them," says a fearless patriot, 
now living. The last building destroyed was situated on the 
north side of Bermuda, near East Street, on the spot in front 
of the recent residence of "the oldest inhabitant." It was the 
property of the Ingram family. There was only one house left 
within the immediate limits of the borough, and that was a dairy, 
with a pigeon-house on the top, belonging to a Mr. Bacon, and 
situated on what was then called Bacon's Lane. This lane ex- 
tended from Main Street, a few doors east of Market Square, 
through to the water, now Union Street. Its location was pro- 
bably where Loyall or Marsden's Lane now is. 

During the frightful progress of the flames, the cannon from 
the shipping and Woodford's battery continued their thundering 
roar. Hostile parties frequently encountered each other amid 
the smoking ruins near the shore ; and, in every action, the 
British were driven off with loss, and in the greatest confusion. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 85 

There was a daring and intrepid party under Colonel Stevens, 
^Yho " rushed witli the rapidity of lightning to the water-side, 
struck a large party of the British who had landed there, and 
compelled them to retire, Avith slaughter and dismay, to the pro- 
tection of their wooden walls. In general, during the whole of 
this afflicting scene, hoth officers and men evinced a spirit worthy 
of veterans. 

" Such was the melancholy event, which laid prostrate the 
most flourishing and richest town in the colony. Its happy site, 
combining all the natural advantages which invite and promote 
navigation and commerce, had been actively seconded by the 
industry and enterprise of the inhabitants. Before the existing 
troubles, an influx of wealth was pouring into its lap. In the 
two years, from 1773 to 1775, the rents of the houses increased 
from X8000 to <£10,000 a year. Its resident population exceeded 
six thousand citizens, many of whom possessed affluent fortunes. 
The whole actual loss on this lamentable occasion has been com- 
puted at more than three hundred thousand pounds sterling; 
and the mass of distress attendant on the event is beyond all 
calculation. 

"After the conflagration, occasional skirmishes took place 
between the Virginians and the enemy, in which the latter 
suff'ered most severely. On the 6th of February, Colonel 
Robert Howe, who was now commander of the American troops, 
abandoned Norfolk, or rather the site on which it had stood ; for 
scarcely any vestige of that ill-fated town was to be seen. 

"After the removal of the inhabitants, the few remaining 
edifices (in the suburbs), had been destroyed ; and the mournful 
silence of gloomy depopulation now reigned where the gay, 
animating bustle of an active, emulous crowd had so lately pre- 
vailed." 



86 HISTORICAL AND 

CHAPTER IX. 

1776—1777. 

British Fleet and Soldiers — Pastimes and Depredations — Dunmore's Departure 
— Eemoval of the Citizens before the Conflagration — Their Spirit and Forti- 
tude — Tories — Coloured Persons — Small-pox — Dreadful Suffering and Mor- 
tality — Money Buried — Mr. Goodchild's Trunk of Specie, &c. — First House 
Erected after the Conflagration — Return of the Inhabitants — Privations of 
the People — Dunmore. 

Previously to the memorable battle of Great Bridge, the 
enemy had for some time remained without very serious difficulty 
in the vicinity of Norfolk ; indeed, the fleet to which Dunmore 
fled rode at anchor in the deep and tranquil waters of our har- 
bour. The officers and troops occasionally came on shore for 
recreation. There was a large vacant lot on the south side of 
Main Street, extending down to the sandy shore of the river. 
It comprised the greater part of the lots between Boush and 
Loyall's Lanes, fronting on Main Street, and on which now 
stand the jNIechanics' Hall and other valuable buildings. Here, 
as we have been informed by an aged inhabitant, they assembled 
and held their pastimes. The forces were formidable enough, 
even excluding the armed vessels, and the inhabitants were well 
aware that the town was then at the mercy of the British ; re- 
sistance, therefore, on the part of the citizens, would have been 
in vain, how much soever they may have disliked the intrusion 
of the unwelcome foe. On the spot alluded to, the soldiers 
assembled. Upon a carpet of Nature's own green, their tables 
were spread, at which they ate, drank, and frolicked, little 
dreaming of the sad reverses that were soon to happen, especially 
on the arrival of Woodford, Stevens, and their fearless compa- 
triots. They had remained too long in confident security, plun- 
dering the town, and impoverishing the farmers in the neighbour- 
hood, by enticing away their servants and taking ofi" their stock. 
It was to be endured no longer ; Dunmore's time to leave soon 
came, and, very much against his will, he was deprived of the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 87 

privilege of coming on shore cagain. He is said to have embarked 
for the last time from Norfolk at the site of the south end of 
Dunmore Street, which for that reason, it is said, bears his name. 
It crosses Freemason Street near Smith's Point. The depreda- 
tions of his soldiers could not be longer allowed, and he there- 
fore determined to cannonade the place ; and finally carried out 
his iniquitous object ; which, however, had but little injurious 
effect upon a town depopulated and on fire. 

After he had made known his intention to cannonade the town, 
great efforts were of course made to get the women and children 
out of the way ; it was reported also that the whole town would 
be burned. Consequently every description of conveyance was 
in requisition. Horses, carriages, wagons, gigs, carts, drays, 
boats, &c., were purchased and hired ; and a general removal 
took place ; indeed, almost the entire population took their de- 
parture from the place now to be freely sacrificed on the altar of 
Liberty. Numbers were seen wending their way in different 
directions ; many fled to Portsmouth, some to Princess Anne 
and Norfolk Counties ; very many to Suffolk and other parts of 
Nansemond ; and some to North Carolina. Such house furniture 
as could be removed, as beds, chairs, tables, &c., and also, 
clothing, provisions, and cooking utensils, were hastily conveyed 
out of the reach of the enemy. Many a neat and beautiful 
dwelling, associated with which there were a thousand pleasing 
recollections — the home of childhood and youth, the scene of 
many a liappy, joyous day, was left to feed the flames, and never 
to be entered or seen again. 

Yet there was but little complaining. Many, very many, 
preferred this course to the disgrace of yielding any advantage 
to the impudent and imperious demands of a hostile force, arrayed 
against the imperishable principles of justice, and the undying 
love of liberty, that warmed the hearts of the inhabitants, and 
nerved them for the privations and sufferings of that unhappy 
crisis. And although as they journeyed on from their homes, 
made still more dear by dangers now threatening, and while the 
booming of the great guns in the distance but too plainly an- 
nounced the sad fate of their once flourishing, active, bustling, 
native town, they brooded not over their misfortunes. The big 



88 HISTORICAL AND 

tear of grief that rose and gushed forth, was as quickly brushed 
away. They sung, engaged in amusements, and kept their 
spirits up. Some of the more lively even joined in an occasional 
dance at the house of some old patriot, on their retreat from the 
depredations of a misguided and revengeful foe. 

The regal governor had offered protection and other induce- 
ments to all tories and coloured persons Avho chose to embark on 
board the vessels in the harbour, and act with the British against 
the Virginians. A few disaffected citizens and very many of 
the slaves of the town and surrounding counties, accordingly, 
repaired on board the shipping. Some of the farmers lost large 
numbers of their servants in this way ; and great cause had the 
deluded fugitives to repent of their course ; for, instead of 
realizing the benefits and blessings which Dunmore had pro- 
mised, they could not even get enough to eat, drink, or wear. 
And besides, to increase the horrors of their situation, the small- 
pox broke out among them, and the mortality Avas appalling. 
Many of the slaves were glad enough to find their way to the 
shore again ; and, failing in their attempts to reach their homes 
of plenty, or even to find a place of shelter from the inclemency 
of the weather, after having been attacked with the symptoms of 
the dreadful scourge, they died on the roadside and in the woods ; 
their loathsome bodies became a prey to the vultures and beasts, 
and impregnated the ambient air with the hateful pestilential 
stench. 

Many of the citizens, apprehending that the town would be 
burned, buried their specie, plate, jewelry, and such other va- 
luable articles as could not be readily and safely removed ; and 
it is 'quite probable many such articles remain in their places of 
concealment to the present day. Among those who resorted to 
this plan was 3Ir. William (xoodcMld. In order to secure a 
considerable amount in Spanish dollars, he secretly lifted several 
planks in the lower floor of his house, made a small excavation, 
and deposited a trunk containing the money. The trunk was 
covered with earth, and the planks replaced. Two weeks after 
this, the house contributed its share to the "sea of fire" that 
deluged and swept away the town. Being compelled to retire 
to the country, he occasionally returned to the site of the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 89 

borough, without an opportunity, however, of exhuming the 
"needful," although he felt keenly the want of a very small 
sum. He would stand and gaze wishfully at the rubbish that 
hid the well-remembered spot from view. He succeeded, how- 
ever, at an early day after the fire, to regain his buried treasure, 
without the loss of a single particle of the shining dust ; and was 
the first to erect a house within the borough limits, after the 
conflagration. Mr. Goodchild purchased a large lot on the 
north side of Main Street, where now stands the City Hotel, and 
other large buildings, on the west of that establishment. This 
lot extended for several hundred feet northwardly to a cove 
(now Cove Street), and cost him only the small sum of .£45. 
His house was erected at the west corner of Main Street and 
Mitchell's Lane, at which place there is now a lofty brick build- 
ing. Mr. G.'s tenement was of wood, and of rather small dimen- 
sions. He, nevertheless, kept a public house, and acted a pro- 
minent part during the Phoenix-likc struggles of the borough to 
rise from its ashes. Prospering in business, he added another 
tenement in the rear, considerably higher than the one first 
erected ; and continuing to flourish, he put up another, and yet 
a third, fourth, fifth, &c., the whole row towering upwards, as it 
extended back from the street, until the regular succession of 
roofs, one reaching above another, had the appearance of an im- 
mense stairway. This gentleman, after a few years of success, 
built a house in the fields, and retired from business. The 
building is still standing, on the north side of Moseley, a few 
rods east of Church Street. It was used for some time as a 
house of reception for persons attacked with contagious diseases, 
which gave it the name of the pest-house. 

The peculiar advantages of position gradually attracted the 
attention of fortune-hunters, capitalists, and enterprising men 
to the scene of ruin. A few stores and dwellings were erected, 
and commercial operations were resumed to a limited extent. 
Some of the former residents returned with their families, and 
built small tenements, which they occupied until it was conve- 
nient to erect larger and more commodious dwellings, and the 
smaller ones were then used as kitchens. 

The privations of the people, on the occasion of the fire, were 



90 HISTORICAL AND 

great ; and the sufferings of tlie women and children, especially, 
very severe. The name of Dunmore was, for many years after 
this calamitous time, and is even to this day, associated with 
many a daring adventure, many a scene of distress i and calls to 
recollection circumstances of the most trying nature, on the part 
of those whom he Avas instrumental in depriving of their homes 
and property. Indeed, it was held in contempt by all classes 
and parties — the rich and the poor, the old and the young, male 
and female, and even the detested tories themselves, upon whom 
he had been the cause of bringing so much scorn and contempt, 
as well as by the true sons of liberty. But he has passed 
away. Doubtless he saw and felt, if he did not acknowledge, 
his errors. We shall recall to memory no more of his deeds ; all 
of which will be scrutinized and tried at a high and just tribunal. 



CHAPTER X. 

1779—1785. 

Extraordinary Winter — The Two Schooners from the West Indies —Harbour 
Closed — Immense Profits — Destitution of the Citizens — Trying Times — 
Borough Charter Amended — Mild Winter — Norfolk Improving — llev. Philip 
Bruce — Vei'y High Tide — Extraordinai'y Drought — Terrific Thunder and 
Lightning — Scarcity of Water — Animals and Vegetation Sufiering — Alarm- 
ing Day — Terrific Explosion — Negro Men Killed — Providential Escapes — • 
The Merchant's Clerk, the Countryman, and the Gimlet — Money Raised by 
Lottery for Building a Church. 

The winter of 1779-80* was one of extraordinary severity. 
The harbour was frozen entirely across to Portsmouth, admit- 

* " The most unseasonable weather I have ever heai'd of (in Virginia) was a 
snow nearly a foot deep, in the month of June, 1774. Cherries and other 
fruits of the season were ripe. The coldest morning ever known in Virginia, 
since its first settlement by the English, was January 14th, 1780. The mer- 
cury sunk into the bulbs of thermometers. The ice upon our rivers was three 
feet two inches thick. James River was frozen over at Burwell's Bay, so that 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 91 

tino- a free and uninterrupted communication between the two 
towns, on the ice, for several weeks. The Athmtic Ocean was 
frozen as far out from the shore as the depth of forty fathoms. 
Chesapeake Bay was so thickly frozen that teams crossed for 
some time from shore to shore, as far down as the Capes. The 
ice was piled up along our coast, at some places, twenty feet 
high, large quantities of which remained as late as the middle of 
May. Of course, the harbour could not be entered ; — a truly 
remarkable circumstance for this latitude, and which, as far as 
we have learned, has not taken place since. 

Two small schooners, returning to Norfolk from the West ''^ 
Indies, in the latter part of February, were compelled to land 
their cargoes several miles south of Cape Henry, which were 
conveyed to the town in carts, in which return cargoes were 
also sent down, — a temporary harbour having been made by the 
melting and removal of the ice in some places between the shore 
and the icebergs. 

There was of course but little foreign trade during the Revo- 
lution ; but that little, although it was attended with great diffi- 
culty and danger, was exceedingly profitable. 

"Tobacco that was bought in Petersburg at from three- 
quarters to one dollar per hundredweight was readily sold at 
St. Eustatia for twenty dollars; and the returns, which were 
generally powder, rum, sugar, and coarse cloths, were equally 
profitable here. 

* >Jc ^ * * * * 

" But few there are now amongst us that could be induced to 
believe how important the safe arrival of those vessels was 
to the comfort of a considerable community. Tea, coffee, choco- 
late, and sugar, were rarities ; clothes, but of the poorest descrip- 
tion, had nearly disappeared ; and if the spinning-wheel had not 
been resorted to with a degree of patience and industry seldom 

the heaviest wagons passed it upon the ice. Chesapeake Bay was frozen quite 
over, and hundreds of persons walked across it, from Annapolis to Kent Island, 
and other places. On the 9th of March, 1780, Colonel Charles Dabney's regi- 
ment of Virginia Infantry marched from Falmouth to Fredericksburg upon the 
ice in the Rappahannock, which had been formed there the preceding Novem- 
ber." — Richmond Inquirer. 



92 HISTORICAL AND 

equalled, the whole population would have been in as pitiable a 
condition as our first parents were when they discovered the 
necessity that beset them," 

These facts were gathered from the remai'ks of a venerable 
and distinguished citizen,* who died in 1851, an octogena- 
rian, and who also said, "It may not be either unprofitable 
or unpleasant to look a little into the characters that figured in 
the times and contests that required the virtue, patriotism, and 
incessant exertions, of those who should not yet be so much for- 
gotten." 

In 1782, the charter was so amended as to allow the common 
council to be elected by the votes of the people. 

The winter of 1782-3 was exceedingly mild for those days 
and this latitude. 

Up to this time the town had increased but slowly in popula- 
tion and business. But, after the lapse of about seven years 
succeeding the fire, a fresh impulse was given to commerce ; it 
began to improve rapidly; and Norfolk, though not Avhat it 
should be, has become what it is within the space of a little 
more than sixty years. Had the true interests of the place 
been properly regarded, and its advantages judiciously fostered, 
instead of the restraints to which it has been subjected, its pros- 
perity and rapid growth in former days would have been but a 
suitable prelude to the exalted station which it would have occu- 
pied before the present time. 

/ 1784. Rev. Philip Bruce (who died, we believe, in 1850), 
a native of North Carolina, one of the most active pioneers of 
Methodism on the American Continent, was assistant to Bishop 
Asbury this year. In 1786, '87, '96, '97, and in 1807-8, he 
was presiding elder on the Norfolk District. He was one of the 
heroes of the Revolution, and was very zealous in his efi'orts to 
" disperse the tories." 

1785. This year was noted for the highest tide ever before 
known in the borough, completely deluging a large portion of its 
site on the water-side. 

* Commodore James Barron. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 93 

The summer of this year was remarkable and long remembered 
for a most distressing and protracted drought. And what is 
sino-ular, in connexion with this fact, it was equally noted for 
the frequent occurrence of dark and lowering clouds, attended 
with most terrific thunder and lightning. The earth was dry 
and parched to cracking by the scorching rays of the sun in the 
forenoon, which were almost daily followed, during the month of 
June particularly, by a dense collection of dark vapours in the 
air above, but which gave no rain, save only a few scattering 
drops, that occasionally fell, and were almost as quickly evapo- 
rated, — tending only to excite the anxious hopes of the people, 
to be as surely disappointed. 

The springs were almost dried up. The deepest wells only 
yielded a scanty supply; "water, bright water," was in great 
demand, and its inestimable value was very generally appre- 
ciated. 

The beasts of the field drooped and died for want of the cool- 
ing draught. The variegated flowers that had given signs of 
freshness and beauty in the months of spring, withered upon 
their slender stalks, and faded ere their soft petals had ex- 
panded, and their opening charms perfected. Vegetation was 
sadly retarded in its progress ; the most hardy productions of 
the garden were stunted, and, when off"ered for sale, commanded 
very high prices. The young corn changed from the deep hues 
of green to a sickly yellow ; and, except in the lowest lands, it 
almost withered in the fields. The wheat crop could not mature; 
the hopes of the husbandman were sadly blasted ; and the tra- 
veller by land was almost suffocated by the clouds of dust that 
were driven by the Avinds and scattered in every direction. 

There was one day, during the continuance of this extraordi- 
nary weather in the month of June of this year, that was truly 
alarming, and which witnessed an event in the old borough that 
was really terrible and destructive in its effects. 

A brilliant flash in the distance announced the approach of 
the threatening, though tantalizing cloud, with its diurnal and 
frightful display of electric power, and the deafening roar of its 
attendant peals. Longer and louder grew the roaring and hoarse 



94 HISTORICAL AND 

murmuring of the thunder, and quicker and more appalling still, 
"the vivid lightning's glare." 

During the continuance of the threatening storm, a man from 
the country called at the counting-room of one of the principal 
merchants, to purchase pork, a quantity of which was stored, 
with other articles of merchandise, in a large warehouse situated 
near the intersection of Church and Lower Union Streets. One 
of the clei'ks was despatched with the customer, who wished to 
examine the quality of the article, but who remarked, after 
leaving the office, that he could judge of its quality by tasting 
the pickle ; whereupon, the clerk hurried back for a gimlet, and 
the dealer stepped aw^ay to attend to other business requiring 
his attention for a few minutes. 

There was stored in the warehouse a great variety of goods, 
intended principally for the country trade, which was at this 
time rapidly increasing. Besides the pork and a quantity of 
bacon, there were numbers of whip and cross-cut saws, and three 
hundred kegs of gunpowder ! 

The clerk was soon retracing his steps in the direction of the 
warehouse ; meanwhile, the clouds grew darker ; the lightning 
flashed and crashed and hissed, forking, darting, and resembling 
a number of monstrous flying serpents, shooting- their fiery forms 
through the air, from the surcharged, though rainless clouds ; 
which had covered, as with a great sombre shroud, the whole 
face of heaven. The thunder muttered and rumbled angrily over- 
head ; flash upon flash, and peal upon peal, came in rapid suc- 
cession, until there was almost " one continual blaze and deafen- 
ing roar." And still the merchant's clerk passes on, until he 
comes within a few yards of the warehouse, on the steps of which 
he discovers two negro men, carefully counting over some change 
they had received at market. But up to this moment the coun- 
tryman had not made his appearance, since the separation a few 
moments before. The lightning now ceases, perchance for a 
short space of time, and seemingly withholds itself, to gather ad- 
ditional force, and concentrate its irresistible powers, to burst 
forth with still greater terror and sublimity than before ; and 
now comes another " wild electric flash" — an overpowering blaze 
of dazzling light, which is followed by an explosion that almost 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 95 

causes the very Ccartli itself to tremble. Commingling Avitli the 
stunning peals of thunder, it echoed, reverberated, and roared 
for many miles around. The inhabitants were startled as by 
the shock of an earthquake, and felt the most painful apprehen- 
sions of impending danger. 

The youth, though stunned by the violence of the concussion, 
soon recovered; and after waiting a few moments for a dense 
black cloud of smoke, in which he was enveloped, to pass away, 
he looked for the warehouse ; but it was noivhere to he seen ! 
The building, and all it contained, had disappeared ; and also 
the coloured men who were upon the steps. This was exceed- 
ingly surprising to the affrighted clerk, but not more so than his 
own escape. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the lightning 
had struck the building ; having been attracted, perhaps, by the 
ironware that was stored within, and communicated to the gun- 
powder, which exploded, and the report thereof was almost simul- 
taneous with the thunder that followed the lightning; stroke. 
Large timbers and fragments were scattered in every direction. 
Some of the saws were thrown almost to the southeastern ex- 
tremity of the town, and twisted in various singular and inde- 
scribable shapes. One of them, however, was rolled up, as if it 
had been done with great care, after the manner of a piece of 
ribbon or tape. The two negro men were bloAvn many rods from 
the building, "skewered with splinters," and dreadfully mangled. 
They were removed from the fatal spot and laid beneath a large 
sycamore tree, which grew on or near the present site of the 
Presbyterian Church, and neaidy opposite St. Paul's, where an 
inquest was held, and at which place they were seen by an indi- 
vidual now living (1853), who states that they were frightfully 
disfigured, and presented a sight too shocking to behold. 

Very many of the window-panes, especially on the north side 
of Main Street, and fronting in the direction of the explosion, 
were shattered ; and, as far off as the location of Bank Street, 
glassware was raised by the concussion several inches from the 
tables ! 

The merchant and clerk alluded to were very respectable citi- 
zens, and their names could be given. It is not important, how- 
ever ; they have both gone to their account in another state of 



96 HISTORICAL AND 

existence, and their descendants are now numbered amono; the 
inhabitants of Norfolk. A gentleman who was then a youth, 
said that he was crossing over to Portsmouth at the time, and 
had a full view of the explosion, which he represented as having 
been very imposing. Bacon, timbers, &c., he stated were thrown 
very many feet in the air, resembling the rapid upward flight of 
an immense flock of large birds. A large quantity of the bacon 
fell on a vessel lying at the wharf near the ill-fated storehouse. 
A man was standing on the deck at the time, but was not in- 
jured. 

\ The narrow escape of the clerk and the customer, to whom 
he failed on this occasion to effect a sale, was thought to be, as 
it doubtless was, by the special interposition of an overruling 
Providence. The former, who returned for the gimlet, had 
scarcely arrived at the counting-room, before he recollected that 
it had been left at the warehouse, whence he had forgotten to 
take it to the counting-room, where it was generally kept. So, 
it appears that his fo7' get fulness, on two separate occasions, was 
the means of saving both his own life, as well as that of the 
man who started Avith him to examine the quality of the pork. 
He lived many years after the affair, and several of his descen- 
dants are now highly respectable residents of our city. We have 
no further information respecting the country gentleman, who 
also figured on this occasion, and who escaped so narrowly with 
his life, but we will venture the suppositions : that he was not a 
little discomposed when he learned the place and circumstances 
of the explosion ; that he had a wonderful tale to tell, when he 
arrived at his quiet abode in the country ; and that he often 
thought of the pork and the pickle, but more especially of the 
little gimlet. 

In October of this year an Act of Assembly was passed, au- 
thorizing the raising of a sum of money, not exceeding ,£700, 
by way of lottery (!) for rebuilding a church in the parish of Eli- 
zabeth River, in the County of Norfolk. Surely public senti- 
ment, in some quarters at least, has undergone a very considerable 
change with regard to lotteries. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 97 



CHAPTER XL 

1787—1799. 

Dismal Swamp Canal — Importance of its Trade — Judicious Management — 
Average of Tolls — Captain James Cornicle — Location of the Canal — An Emi- 
nent Subscriber to the Stock — Borough Charter Amended — Tardy Legislation 
— Newspaper — Religious Revival — Cape Henry Light-house — Court-house — 
Population — Exports — Norfolk Herald — T. G. Broughton, Esq. — Heavy Ex- 
ports and Tonnage of the Borough — Cold Weather — Extensive Fire. 

1787. Tins year the Dismal Swamp Canal was commenced 
under a joint charter of Virginia and North Carolina. It is truly 
an important and valuable work, being the medium of an im- j 
mense amount of business. It is navigated by sloops and 
schooners, some of which are of considerable size. Norfolk has, 
for a long time, received a large portion of her support from the 
canal trade. 

"Few, except those engaged in it, are aware of its magnitude 
and importance. It makes no noise, no show. The little ves- 
sels arrive, and deliver their cargoes at the wharves ; take in 
return freights, and depart for the waters of our sister State,/ 
without attracting the least notice from ' the public at large.' ' 
The newspapers do, indeed, keep a record of the arrivals, but 
that is only for the information of the parties interested, and 
the mass of their readers seldom look at it. Still ' the wonder 
grows' that Norfolk is increasing in improvements and in popu- 
lation, without any visible way of accounting for it." 

We publish the following passage relating to the judicious 
management of the Dismal Swamp Canal, by the present efficient 
Directory, from the late Report of the Board of Public Works 
(1851) :— 

" The annual report of the Dismal Swamp Canal Company 
(page 181) presents a favourable view of its present condition 
and finances. In regard to the former, personal inspection, made 
by the President and other members of the Board, impressed 

7 



98 HISTORICAL AND 

them with a very high opinion of the great value of this work 
for general public purposes. Notwithstanding the unexpected 
interruption of the trade for a short period, by the giving way 
of the lock at Gilmerton, and other serious casualties, the trans- 
portation appears to have been greater during the past year, 
than it has ever yet been. The annual average of tolls for the 
eight preceding years, was $32,906 06; the amount collected in 
that year was $39,748 23. A dividend of 4 J per cent, was 
declared out of the nett profits, leaving a balance of available 
funds of $13,065 73. The Board deems it but an act of justice 
to say, that instances of a more systematic, judicious, and suc- 
cessful management of works, of a similar character, are rarely 
to be met with." 

Captain James Cornick, a descendant of one of the oldest and 
most respectable settlers of this part of our State, and formerly 
a most skilful and successful shipmaster, has, for a number of 
years, been the efficient president of the Company. 

It is stated that this Company, with a view of extending the 
canal, intend to renew their application to the next Congress for 
an appropriation of the amount of dividends which accrue to the 
United States, upon the $200,000 capital stock owned by the 
Government. 

"The route, which has already been surveyed for the improve- 
ment, makes the distance from the end of the canal to the Shingle 
Landing, the point at which they intend to bring the new cut 
into the river again, three and a half miles. From this point, 
by the present route, to the South Lock, the distance is seven 
miles, and that of the most difficult navigation ; the river being 
narrow, deep, and exceedingly crooked ; and, during the winter 
season, when the swamp is full of water, a strong current sets 
down, which renders it very difficult for vessels to get up ; — they 
frequently occupy one, two, and sometimes four days to get from 
this point to the canal. If this improvement were made, the dis- 
tance to the lock could be accomplished in two hours, and, fre- 
quently, boats would reach Norfolk in less time than they now 
consume in working up this miserable piece of navigation to the 
South Lock, besides saving much labour and trouble to this im- 
portant branch of our commerce. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 99 

"But a greater improvement might still be made, at a compa- 
ratively small expense. The distance from the proposed ter- 
minus of the new cut to the mouth of the Narrows, is not more 
than one and a half miles. If an extension were made to this 
point, no difficulty would be met in reaching the canal, as the 
river is sufficiently broad and deep to enable vessels to work up 
even against a head wind ; and the trip from Elizabeth City to 
Norfolk, which now requires often four and five days, could be 
easily performed in two, and often in one." 

By means of this canal, a communication is opened between 
the sounds and principal rivers of North Carolina and the waters 
of the Elizabeth, Chesapeake Bay, and the ocean. The north 
end of the canal empties into Deep Creek, a branch of our river, 
and the south end into a branch of the Pasquotank. The canal 
passes for about twenty miles through the Dismal Swamp, from 
which, of course, it takes its name. It has been pronounced by 
travellers to be one of the best in the Union. The name of the 
great Patrich Henry appears among the first subscribers to the 
stock, having been placed upon the books at Williamsburg, in 
1791. 

December 7. "An Act to amend the charter of the borough 
of Norfolk," was passed by the General Assembly. It related, 
principally, to the election of the councilmen by the people, 
triennially, on June 24th; vesting also in them the election of 
mayor, and directing a uniform rate of taxes. It appears that 
the Legislature was as slow in former days, in correcting uncon- 
stitutional usages in the borough, as it now is in allowing privi- 
leges which are not only reasonable, but absolutely necessary to 
the prosperity of the city. 

1788. The first newspaper published in the borough, after 
the Revolution, appeared this year.* It was the " Norfolk and 
Portsmouth Ohronicle,'" issued weekly, by J. & A. McLean, from 

* The First Newspaper in Virginia. — Palmer's Kegister states that the first 
press in this State was imported by the city of AVilliamsbiirg in 1780. The 
prices of advertising and subscriptions of those times are thus stated in the 
following extract from the terms of the paper, contained in the first issue : 

"All persons maybe supplied with this paper d^i fifty dollars a year, and 

L.ofC. 



100 HISTORICAL AND 

New York. Its existence was of short duration, on account of 
the death of one of the editors. 

This year an extraordinary revival of religion commenced in 
this section of the State. Great multitudes inquired the way to 
be saved, and thousands professed to have experienced a change 
of heart. "Vast numbers," said a gentleman writing from 
Portsmouth to an eminent minister in England, "are flocking 
into the fold of Christ, from every quarter. In many places, as 
soon as the preacher begins to speak, the power of God appears 
to be present, which is attended with trembling among the 
people. ***>!:* Q-reat is the joy, great is the glory. 
Surely America will become the mart of nations for piety." 

1789, November 13. Act of Assembly passed, authorizing 
the Governor to convey certain land to the United States, in the 
County of Princess Anne, at a place commonly called the head- 
land of Cape Henry, for the purpose of buikling a light-house. 

1700. Court-house built on Main Street, east of Church. The 
population of the borough had reached this year to within 50 of 
3,000 souls. 

1791. Value of exports from Virginia, and principally from 
this port, $3,130,8G5. 

August 13, 1794. On this day, the first number of the Nor- 
folk Herald was published, by Mr. Charles Willet. It was 
printed on a small sheet, about eighteen by twenty-four inches, 
and was issued on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Price per an- 
num, twenty shillings. The Herald has since changed hands 
several times, and has been greatly enlarged and improved ; 
having been altered many years ago to a tri-weekly, and since 
to a daily and tri-weekly publication. It requires only a short 
allusion here ; for, under the judicious auspices of Thomas G. 

have advei'tisements (of a Bioderate leugth) inserted for ten dollars the first week, 
and seven dollars for each week after." 

It should be recollected, too, that this was a weekly paper, making the cost 
to subscribers about ninety-six cents a number. 

The Norfolk Herald says : " the year is evidently misprinted 1780 instead of 
1680. We onc« possessed a file of the Virginia Gazette printed in Williams- 
burg iu 1744-5; and there was a press in Norfolk in 1775, which Gov. Dun- 
more unceremoniously caused to be removed on board the Fowey man-of-war, 
previous to the conflagration of the town." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 101 

Broughton, Esq., it has, for a long time, faithfully told its own 
history to a very large number of patrons and friends in Nor- 
folk and the neighbouring towns, villages, and counties in Vir- 
ginia and North Carolina, by whom it is justly regarded as a 
faithful journal of current events, and a valuable medium for the 
dissemination of useful information. The Norfolk and Ports- 
mouth Herald has long advocated and supported, in an able 
manner, the principles and doctrines of the Whig party. 

Thomas G. Broughton, Sr., Esq., the oldest editor of our 
city, and who has been for so many years the able and success- 
ful conductor of the Herald, is a native of Princess Anne County. 
There is, perhaps, no person who has more general information 
than Mr. B., concerning the men who have lived, and the events 
that have transpired, in Norfolk and its vicinity, during the last 
forty years. 

It is very certain, that for some of our most judicious local 
improvements, the citizens are mainly indebted to suggestions 
that first appeared in the columns of his paper. Mr. B. is justly 
considered an excellent writer. His style is generally pointed, 
smooth, and perspicuous. His descriptive articles, especially, 
are "easy, pleasant, and properly adorned." As was said of 
Roger North, "he is excellent at a narrative." 

Mr. Broughton having, several years since, associated with 
himself one of his sons (Richard, a gentleman of literary taste 
and talent),' the paper is now edited and published by T. Cr. 
Broughton ^ Son.* 

"In the year 1T95, a period of twelve years after the war, the 
exports, consisting chiefly of tobacco, flour, wheat, Indian corn 
and meal, salt beef, pork, fish, tar, turpentine, flaxseed, iron, 
lead, timber of every kind, reached the sum of $1,934,827. In 
1804, nine years later, the exports for the last two quarters of 
the year, reached $2,230,855, and in three quarters of the same 

* The late Dr. Charles II. Broughton, U. S. N., a young gentleman of supe- 
rior talents and fine literary attainments, as well as a devoted Christian, was 
a son of Mr. B. of the Herald. His religious influence had already been felt, 
and promised to be most salutary and extensive, when he was unexpectedly 
summoned to his reward. " On the 22d of December, 1843, he breathed his 
last, calmly reclining on the bosom of God his Saviour." See tract. No. 486, 
Am. Tract Society. 



102 HISTORICAL AND 

year, the foreign articles re-exported were $210,679. In 1805, 
a period of t^yenty-t]lree years after the peace, the exports in 
domestic produce were $3,880,347, and in foreign articles 
$507,907; making the exports of a single year nearly four mil- 
lions AND A HALF DOLLARS. The tonnage owned in the borough 
was about 31,292 tons. These facts stand almost without a 
parallel in the history of American commerce. When peace 
was fairly restored, the town began to rise with wonderful ra- 
pidity. In 1796, the number of houses Avas between eight and 
nine hundred." 

The winter of 1798-99 was unusually cold. In '99 there was 
an extensive and a most distressing fire, which destroyed a large 
amount of property in the commercial part of the town. 



CHAPTER XII. 

1800—1803. / 

/ 

Severe Winter — Act of Assembly — Funeral Solemnities of AVashington — Ora- 
tion — Monotly — Minute Guns, &c. — Population — Officers of the Corporation 
— Exports — Population Rapidly Increasing — Norfolk Advancing — Influx of 
Foreigners — Brisk Business — Shipping — Buildings on Main Street, &c. — 
Mud and Water — Dust, Frogs, and Musquitoes — Church Street — Ship-yards 
—Rev. Mr. Bland and Old St. Paul's— Rev. J. Whitehead— Different Chris- 
tian Denominations, and their Houses of Worship — Cumberland Street Bap- 
tist Church — Number of Buildings — Simmons's Directory — Chamber of Com- 
merce — Members' Names — Norfolk Junior Volunteers — The Council — 
Amendment of the Charter. 

1800. This year was also remarkable for the severity of the 
weather, during the winter months. 

January 25. Act of Assembly passed, authorizing the Go- 
vernor to convey to the United States the property called Gos- 
port, for the purpose of establishing a navy yard. 

February 22. On this day took place, in the borough, the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 103 

funeral solemnities on the occasion of the death of Washington, 
the " Father of his country, the first and greatest of the Presi- 
dents," and, may we not truly add, the greatest of men? 

The following account is taken from the Herald of February 
25th :— ^ 

" On Saturday last, the 22d inst., agreeably to the notifica- 
tion of Major Ford, the different troops stationed at the Forts 
and Navy Yard, paraded in this borough, in order to form a pro- 
cession to pay funeral honours to the memory of George Wash- 
ington. At twelve o'clock, they were joined by the different 
volunteer corps, in full uniform. In the Main Street, the whole 
formed in battalion, and received the word of command from the 
Major. The bier passed them, attended by the principal gen- 
tlemen of the town as chief mourners ; then followed the Lodges 
of the Masons in their orders; then the officers of the Navy; the 
different artificers from the Navy Yard, and the citizens of Nor- 
folk and Portsmouth in general. The troops then reversed their 
arms and marched, the drums being mufiled, and the music play- 
ing the dead march, until they arrived at the church w%all, when 
the ranks faced to each other, and resting on their arms reversed; 
the bier, &c., passed between them into the church, the troops 
following ; but the church not being sufficiently spacious, a great 
portion of the citizens were prevented from seeing that part of 
the ceremony. 

" After prayers Avere given by the Rev. James Whitehead, Dr. 
Read, Mayor of the town, pronounced a handsome oration, well 
adapted to the occasion, and was followed by Mr. Blanchard, 
who delivered a beautiful monody, such as, to quote his own 
words, made 

" 'AH nerves tremble, and all eyes weep.' 

" Mr. Hiort then rose, as one of Captain Myers's Company, 
and addressed the audience as follows : 

" [It is unnecessary for us to transcribe the address, which 
fills more than a column ; but its quality may be guessed by the 
peroration, which was as follows] : 

" ' When memory traces back the anniversary of this day, and 
thinks on the ecstasy that for years hath pervaded every citizen ; 



104 HISTORICAL AND 

imagining tlioy could not celebrate with too much joy and fes- 
tivity the day that gave their Washington birth ; and, when we 
compare it with the mournful procession of the present, the 
chords of the human heart are ready to burst with agonizing 
comparison. 

" ' But the scene is closed ! 

" 'As we have been unanimous to pay tribute to his memory, 
let us be unanimous in imitating his patriotism ; and, may our 
unanimity be lasting as the sun that rules the day.' 

" After Mr. Hiort had finished, a band of music performed a 
solemn dirge ; the bier was carried to a grave, where the troops 
fired three volleys over it. The procession then moved to the 
Market Place, the music playing the President's march, where, 
after having formed in column, they were disbanded. (Queer 
way of dismissing troops that — in column ! Doubtless a mistake 
of the reporter.) 

"A greater concourse of people was never before seen in Nor- 
folk. The attention of Major Ford to the accommodation of 
every description of citizens was alike, and the whole was con- 
ducted with great regularity and order." 

A gentleman who was present, wrote as follows : 

" Saturday last, February 22d (a day kept sacred to the 
name of our Washington — a day which convened in their several 
districts the inhabitants through the whole extent of the United 
States — a day mourned by a collection of near eight millions of 
sorrowing citizens), the funeral honours of our departed chief 
were performed here with a solemnity, order, and decorum, that 
do credit to those who conducted the procession, and to civilized 
society. 

" Nothing could exceed the order, discipline, and precision of 
the troops under Major Ford, who conducted the mourning duties 
of the day ; the steadiness of their movements, and their recline, 
when the bier passed, was not an unaffecting circumstance in the 
ceremony. The procession, consisting of the inhabitants, the 
orders of Masons, and the military, proceeded at half-past twelve, 
from Main Street to the church, where the service was begun 
by prayers from the Rev. Mr. Whitehead, and a very handsome 
oration by Dr. Read, Mayor of the Borough, followed by Mr. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 105 

Blanchard, who rehearsed the beautiful poem on General Washing- 
ton's death* (first published in the Herald of the 2d of January), 
and concluded by an address from INIr. Iliort, of Captain Myers's 
Company, and the blessings of the church. 

" The day was so remarkably bright that Heaven seemed to 
smile on our endeavours to do honour to the deceased and to de- 
parted merit; the spirit of emulation was abroad; each Avished to 
contribute his mite. The concourse of people was such as we 
have never witnessed before in the borough. But not a single act 
of confusion blotted the scene; and the solemn and masterly 
strains of music, added to the preceding circumstances, seemed 
to send us to our homes, resolved to imitate in all his imitable 
virtues, the man for whom we mourned." 

The Herald of August 1st, 1850, adds the following : 

"At an early hour the old revolutionary drummer, George 
Fritz (who had lost an eye in his country's service), took the 
round with his ' spirit-stirring drum,' to remind the volunteers of 
the parade. A piece of artillery, worked by a detachment of 
Captain Lugg's Company, was posted at the foot of Market 
Square, and fired the minute guns, commencing at nine o'clock, 
and continuing till the procession was dismissed. The volun- 
teers in the procession consisted of the Norfolk Cavalry, Cap- 
tain John Nivison; the Norfolk Volunteers, Captain Moses 
Myers ; the Light Infantry, Captain Samuel Smith ; Norfolk 
Artillery, Captain P. Lugg ; and the Ancient Artillery, Captain 
W. P. Pollard. 

"The whole arrangement and direction of the ceremonies was 
deputed to Major Ford, of the U. S. Army, who commanded the 
troops on this station, having his head-quarters at Fort Nelson 
(where now stands the U. S. Naval Hospital). 

"The Major, with the gallantry of the soldier, placed sentries 
at the doors of the church (old St. Paul's), for the exclusive ad- 
mission of the ladies, till the arrival of the procession. 

" The flags of the shipping were half-masted during the day ; 
and on the front wall of the Exchange Coffee House, then re- 
cently opened by Mr. John Rourke (of eccentric memory), there 
was hung up a large transparency, representing the apotheosis 

■^ A portion of this poem will be found on another page. 



106 HISTOKICAL AND 

of Washington, with this inscription, ' Washington in Glory — 
The World in Tears.' It attracted the special observation of 
large crowds of admiring spectators." 

The resident population of the borough, in 1800, according to 
the census, was 6,926 ; showing an increase in ten years of 3,976. 
The oflScers of the Borough Corporation elected this year (not 
one of whom now lives), were as follows : — 

Mayor.— Seth Foster. 

Recorder. — Thos. Newton, Sr. 

Aldermen. — Cornelius Calvert, Baylor Hill, Samuel Moseley, 
John K. Read, William Vaughan, John Cowper, and John 
Stratton. 

Councilmen. — Robert Boush, President ; Thomas Newton, Jr., 
Thomas Blanchard, John Brown, John Nivison, Luke Wheeler, 
Robert Taylor, Robert B. Taylor, Harrison Allmand, Richard 
L. Green, John Bramble, James Bennett, George Wilson, James 
Woodward, James Tucker, John G. Marsden. 
-.. Register. — William Sharp. 

State's Attorney for the Borough. — James Nimmo. 

Clerk of Hustinsis' Court and Common Council. — William 
Sharp. 

Sergeant. — James Boyce. 

Deputy Sergeant. — Jonathan Williamson. 

Chamberlain. — Hance Baker. 

Overseer of the Poor. — John Calvert. 

Physician. — William O'Grady. 

Commissioner of Revenue Tax. — Paul Proby. 

Commissioner of the Streets. — Edward Widgeon. 

Clerk of the Market. — John Warrington. 

Wood Measurer. — Robert Demster. 

Harbour Master. — Paul Proby. 

Inspectors of Lumber. — John Barret, Frederick Hennicke, 
and Henry Prescott. 

Inspector of Flour. — John Dudgeon. 

The value of exports this year from Virginia, and of course 
principally from this port, was $4,430,689. 

Norfolk was a busy, bustling place at this period. The popula- 
tion had nearly reached the respectable number of 8,000, includ- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 107 

ing the transient and floating part of the community, mih the 
permanent residents. There were very many foreigners, prin- 
cipally from England and Scotland, and quite a large number 
from France, Ireland, &c. Scores of vessels were at the 
Avharves, taking in and discharging cargoes, and " the streets 
and lanes, from Main Street to the river, ^Yere thronged with a 
heterogeneous mass of human beings." The houses were prin- 
cipally of wood ; the greater part of which have since disap- 
peared, and given place to substantial brick buildings. There is 
scarcely a house on Market Square that stood in 1800 ; only about 
twenty on the north side of Main Street, and not so many on the 
south side. None of the streets were paved ; and plentiful sup- 
plies of mud and water in winter, and of dust, frogs, and mos- 
quitoes in summer, there must have been. Church Street was 
the only avenue by which the town could be entered by vehicles; 
and a noisy, brisk thoroughfare it was. There were on this 
street a large number of stores, and a very considerable retail 
trade was transacted with the country people. The three brick 
buildings, now standing on the east side of this street, near the 
Princess Anne Road, were built this year by " Monsieur Delisle, 
a Frenchman from the West Indies, who went largely into the 
brick-making business." 

" There were four ship-yards in Norfolk, and two in Ports- 
mouth ; all of them just as busy as they could be. There wasi'^ 
no higgling about prices ; the only question was, ' How soon 
can the work be done ?' " 

The Rev. Mr. Bland, an Episcopal minister, was, at this time, 
" the regularly-installed pastor of St. Paul's Church, though not 
the choice of the congregation." He was quite an eccentric gen- 
tleman, and besought his small assemblage of hearers " to do as 
he told them ; not as he did." 

Many persons congregated at the town-hall to attend the 
ministrations of the Rev. J. Whitehead, also an Episcopalian 
clergyman. The Methodists assembled in an old building on 
Fenchurch Street, below Holt. The Baptists occupied a house 
opposite their present church on Cumberland Street. The 
Catholics worshipped in a small wooden chapel on Chapel Street, 
on the site of the building which, a few years since, was sue- 



108 HISTORICAL AND 

ceecled by their fine house on Holt Street. The Presbyterians 
were this year organized into a church, and soon after built the 
house at the corner of Catharine and Charlotte Streets ; and, 
within the next twelve months, the Protestant Episcopalians and 
the Methodists, also, had commodious and comfortable houses of 
worship erected ; the former on the site of the present Presby- 
terian Church, on Church Street, and the latter where their 
building now stands, on Cumberland near Cove Street. The 
Cumberland Street Baptist Church was erected in 1816. This 
was a neat, plain, and commodious brick building. It has been 
enlarged and greatly improved, and now presents a very chaste 
and handsome front. The interior has recently been put in good 
order, and is, perhaps, as beautifully finished as any house of 
worship in the city. Rev. Reuben Jones is the present pastor. 

1801. Up to this time, twenty-five years after the great con- 
flagration, one thousand houses had been erected in the borough, 
averaging forty a year. 

A Directory of Norfolk was published this year by Charles 
H. Simmons, Esq. It was continued for several years, and 
proved a profitable undertaking ; but the town having suffered 
severely by fires, and the difficulties which attended the com- 
mercial affairs of the United States and Great Britain, having 
resulted unfavourably for the prospects of Norfolk, this and 
other enterprises were necessarily abandoned. 

On the 2d of May, of this year, " Articles of Association and 
Rules of the Norfolk Chamber of Commerce" were agreed to at 
the Exchange Coffee House. The officers were a president, vice- 
president, secretary, and treasurer. The meetings were held on 
the first Monday in every month. 

We copy the following agreement of the Chamber, with the 
subscribers' names : — 

" Articles of Association and Rules of the Norfolk Chamber 
of Commerce, agreed on at a meeting of the Chamber, held at 
the Exchange Coffee House, on Tuesday the 2d of May, 1801. 

" We, whose names are hereunto subscribed, do hereby agree 
to associate together, under the title of 'Members of the Chamber 
of Norfolk,' for the purpose of aiding trade, the adjustment of 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 



109 



mercantile differences, and the carrying into effect such rules 
and regulations as may, from time to time, be established." 



llobert Taylor, 
—William Pennock, 
Robert Gibson, 
Alexander Wilson, 
Christopher Fry, 
James Taylor, Jr., 
William Plume, 
James Young, 
Soulage, 
~ John Cowper, 
Luke Wheeler, 
Thomas Newton, 
-- John Cranberry, 
Alexander Maclure, 
Louis E. Durant, 
John Brown, 
Francis S. Taylor, 
Phinehas Dana, 
Nathan Macgill, 
James Herron, 
-Moses Myers, 
Thomas Higinbotham, 
James Bennett, 
Robert Dickson, 



Henry Benbridge, 
William Vaughan, 
James Mackinder, 
Edward Johnston, 
Francis Smith, 
Harrison Allmand, --- 
Thomas Willock, — 
Wright Southgate, 
James Thorburn, >_ 
John Proudfit, . 
Martin Fisk, 
James Tucker, 
Thomas Hamilton, 
Warren Ashley, 
James Douglas, 
Alexander Cowan, 
William Raincock, 
William Hartshorne, Jr. 
Samuel Kerr, 
Daniel Stone, 
William Cuthbert, 
Edward Archer, 
Theodoric Armistead. 



In 1802, that excellent and well-disciplined volunteer corps, 
the Norfolk Junior Volunteers, now commanded by Captain F. 
F. Ferguson, was founded. 

Until this year the Council was elected triennially, when, by 
act of Assembly, the term of service was reduced from three 
years to one year — the election, as heretofore, to take place on 
the 24th of June. 

January 27, 1803. Charter of the borough again amended, 
so as to allow an alteration in the mode of electing councilmen. 
The town was accordingly divided into eight wards, each elect- 
ing, within its own bounds, two Common Councilmen. 



110 HISTORICAL AND 

CHAPTER XIII. 

1803—1812. 

William Wirt — Letters, &c. — Norfolk Academy Incorporated, Trustees — An- 
nual Exports and Imports — Prosperous Condition of the Borough — Com- 
mercial Advantages — Agriculture — Extensive Fire — Heavy Losses — Distress 
and Deaths — Market-House — Eiver-side — Parade Ground — Taxes, &c. — 
Expenditures of the Corporation — Large Bill for Gunpowder — The Poet 
Moore — Shocking Tragedy — Comparative Statement — Norfolk People — Fo- 
reign Trade — Merchants — Commerce — Streets and Houses Labelled —Act of 
Assembly relative to Paving the Streets — The Harbour filled with Vessels 
— Immense Business — Transient People — Brilliant Prospects — Norfolk Mer- 
chants — Pennock and Myers — Norfolk Bar — Chesapeake Affair — Embargo — 
Ruinous Effects upon Commerce — Embargo Law Repealed — Mechanical Be- 
nevolent Society — Places of Amusement — Public Gardens, Parks, and Groves 
— Back Creek — Street Lamps — Solemn Funeral Procession — Burning of the 
Theatre at Richmond — Soldier Sentenced to be Shot. 

In the winter of 1803-4, William Wirt, Esq., then a distin- 
guished lawyer and writer, and afterwards Attorney-General of 
the United States, removed to Norfolk, where he remained till 
July, 1806. " From this date," says Kennedy, "we may compute 
Wirt's rapid advancement to eminence in his profession. While 
here, he wrote many valuable and interesting letters, which have 
been published ; and his practice was very extensive and lucra- 
tive." He remarks in one of his letters, " In the Borough of 
Norfolk every drone feels the pressure of business ;" and in 
another, " Norfolk, as you guess, is very expensive. I keep, for 
instance, a pair of horses here, which cost me eight pounds per 
month. Wood is four to eight dollars per cord ; Indian meal, 
through the winter, is nine shillings per bushel ; this winter it is 
supposed it will be fifteen. Flour, eleven and twelve dollars per 
barrel ; a leg of mutton three dollars ; butter three shillings per 
pound ; eggs two shillings and three pence, and so on. Having 
set out, however, with a view of making a provision for my family, 
in the event of my being called away from them, I live as econo- 
mical as I can, so as to avoid giving my wife any reason for 
regret at the recollection of her father's house and table." 



DEvSCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. Ill 

1804, January 19. Act of Assembly passed, incorporating 
the Trustees of the Norfolk Academy, and the following gentle- 
men were appointed : Thomas Newton, Jr., Jojm Nivison, 
Thomas Blanchard, Theodoric Armistead, Robert Brough, John 
E. Holt, Littleton W. Tazewell, Philip Barbour, Alexander Jor- 
dan, llichard H. Lee, and Arthur Lee. 

The annual exports of the borough, for this and several pre- 
ceding years, and also for 1805, '6, and '7, varied from five to ■ 
seven millions ; and the importations were scarcely commensu- 
rate with the demand. 

" It must be kept in mind that we then had no internal im- 
provements, in the common acceptation of the terra, excepting a 
partial use of the Dismal Swamp Canal, which, when compared 
with the present magnificent work of that name, was as a mole- 
hill to a mountain. A glance at the map Avill show whence our \^ 
exjports_came. Look at the Chesapeake, which has been aptly 
called our Mediterranean Sea. Its head stream, the Susquehanna, 
penetrates far into Pennsylvania. To pass over the tributaries 
from Maryland, which are alone suiEcient to sustain a city, let 
us come to Virginia. There is the Potomac and its tributaries ; 
the Rappahannock and its tributaries ; the Piankitank ; the York 
with its associated streams, the Mattaponi and the Pamunkey : 
the James with its northern and southern tributaries, which are 
competent to support a large city ; and your own Elizabeth and 
its tributaries. Look at the position of your port, which seems to 
be designed to receive the produce of these mighty rivers, and to 
become the mart of their commerce. But numerous as are these 
channels of trade, your port received its tributes from many other 
sources. North Carolina crowded the products of her soil and 
her rich forests of pine and oak, on your wharves. The Dela- 
ware brought you the wealth of the States on its banks. Let me 
ask in passing, whether these sources of trade are exhausted ? 
Do the skies refuse their genial showers to our lands ? Do the 
waters of your streams refuse to run to the sea. No, no ; on the 
contrary, all the sources of your ancient wealth are still open, 
and increased tenfold. New scenes are also open. Facilities of 
intercommunication, not dreamed of half a century ago, now 
exist. A late Richmond paper announces the wonderful intelli- 



112 HISTORICAL AND 

gence that a heavily laden canal packet may now pass to Bu- 
chanan, a settlement that is nestled among the Alleghanies. 
Railroads, constructed at great cost, are multiplied and multiply- 
ing over our own State and the neighbouring States. Nor is 
this all. The capacity of production is greater now than ever. 
We have more people, more cultivated land, and more money. 
There is hardly an acre of timber standing on the low grounds 
which were of old given up in despair, but which modern skill 
has made available for all the choicest productions of agricul- 
ture. Not a stream is closed against us ; not an acre of land but 
but may be made to yield the full produce of the virgin soil." 

This year, also, the commercial part of the town suffered 
severely by fires. Many of the houses being built of wood, the 
progress of the flames was very rapid, and they were subdued 
with great difficulty. The loss in goods of every description was 
immense, and the distress occasioned was very great. A respec- 
table old gentleman, seeing his goods consuming, committed him- 
self in desperation to the furious flames, in his own store, from 
the ruins of which his remains were taken, — a charred mass ; 
and another leaped from the wharf, in a fit of excitement, and 
was drowned. 

The market-house was pulled down to save more valuable pro- 
perty. This was situated in the upper part of the Market Space, 
on a line with Main Street, — the ends being east and west ; and 
the north side being nearly on a line with the south side of Main 
Street, east from the square. From the market-house there was 
a gradual descent to the river-side, — a part of which was near 
the spot now occupied by Barry's extensive China establishment, 
corner of Union Street, long known as the Steamboat Hotel. 
West from this location, the shore extended further south ; per- 
haps as far as Water Street. The parade ground was on the 
declivity in the rear of the market-house. 

Total amount of taxes, and other funds, received by the Corporation 

this year, ........ $17,263 72 

Moneys paid, as per the Chamberlain's Account, . . . 8,653 72 



Balance due the Corporation, January 1st, 1806, . . , $8,610 00 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 113 

Of the above amount, for expenditures, the sum of $246 was 
paid for ijoioder to blow up houses. 

This year, Thomas Moore, Esq., the poet, who was on a visit 
to the United States, came to Norfolk, and while here, composed 
a song, which he called " The Lake of the Dismal Swamp." 
This affecting poetic effusion will be found in another part of 
this work, in connexion with a description of that silent and 
secluded collection of water. Moore was born in Ireland, and 
educated at Trinity College, Dublin. "His prejudices did not 
allow him to form a favourable opinion of this country." Some 
of his poems are justly censured for their licentious character, 
while others are much admired for their surpassing beauty, 
pathos, and religious sentiment. He returned to his native land 
in 1806, and soon after published, " The Two-Penny Post-Bag ;" 
"The Fudge Family in Paris;" "The Loves of the Angels;" and 
"Lalla Rookh ;" an Oriental romance, " which unites the purest 
and softest tenderness, with the loftiest dignity, and in every 
page glows with all the fervour of poetry." 

1806. This year, a shocking tragedy occurred in a building 
on the north side of Little Water Street, two doors east of Com- 
merce. " Two gamblers, brothers, of the name of Davis, rented 
the third story for the purpose of keeping a pharo table. One 
night an Italian, whose name we believe was Colmini [Coalmi- 
ner, as he was commonly called), visited this establishment, and 
meeting with an extraordinary run of luck, finally broke the 
bank. The Davises and another of their fraternity charged him 
with cheating ; he protested his innocence, but it was to no pur- 
pose. They attempted to seize him, but he broke from them and 
fled down the narrow dark stairway, all three in close pursuit. 
On the second landing he stepped aside, unperceived, and as 
each passed him on the right, in the dark, he gave him a fatal 
stab with a stiletto in the left side, and a push down the next 
flight. The two Davises were mortally wounded and died within 
twenty-four hours ; their companion lingered several weeks and 
died also. The Italian escaped." 

For the following statement, prepared from Siramons's Direc- 



114 HISTORICAL AND 

tory for this year, -we are indebted to the kindness of an intelli- 
gent citizen. 

Corpo7-ation. — Mayor, recorder, aldermen, and officers of the 
court in 1806, fifteen ; survivors in 1852, none. Common 
Council, nineteen ; survivor, John Southgate. Constables and 
watchmen, thirteen ; survivors, none. Overseers of the poor, 
inspectors, measurers, fire wardens, and others, fifty-eight ; sur- 
vivors, none. 

Institutions. — Trustees and teachers of the Norfolk Academy, 
fourteen ; survivor, L. W. Tazewell, trustee. Directors and 
visitors of the Female Orphan Asylum, sixteen ; survivors, Mrs. 
Taylor, Mrs. Chandler, and Mrs. Woodward. President and 
directors of the Dismal Swamp Canal Company, seven ; survivor, 
F. Whittle. President and directors of the Norfolk Drawbridge 
Company, six ; survivor, C. Fry. Officers and members of the 
Marine Society, sixty-two ; survivors, none. Officers and mem- 
bers of the Chamber of Commerce, thirty-five ; survivors, John 
Southgate and George M'Intosh. President, directors, and 
secretary of the Marine Insurance Company, eighteen ; survivors, 
John Southgate, and F. Whittle. President, directors, and 
officers of the United States Bank, twenty-one ; survivor, A. 
Maclure. Virginia Bank, twenty ; survivor, John Southgate. 

Masonic Lodges. — Royal Arch, fourteen ; No. 1, eighteen ; 
No. 51, ten ; no survivors. 

Militia.' — 54th Regiment, colonel and staff, majors, and adju- 
tants, eight ; survivors, none. Effective rank and file, eight 
hundred and thirty-five ; survivors, unknown. First battalion, 
twenty-two ; survivor, William Maxwell. Second battalion, 
eighteen ; no survivor. 

Lawyers and notaries, ten ; survivor, L. W. Tazewell. Custom 
House officers, twenty-one ; no survivors. Marine Hospital, 
three ; survivors, none. Post-office, four ; survivors, none. Navy 
Agency, three ; survivors, none. Of course, but few remain, 
after the lapse of nearly half a century. Death could not spare, 
till the present time, many of those who had come to mature 
age at the period here alluded to. 

Mr. Simmons says of Norfolk, in 1806 : '' At present, not- 
withstanding the great fires of 1799 and 1804, which consumed 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 115 

the most extensive commercial part of the town, there are ahout 
twelve hundred houses — the suburbs have nearly two hundred 
dwellings. The number of inhabitants may be computed at 
nearly ten thousand, and they are characterized by travellers as 
generally polite, obliging, and hospitable. 

" It carries on a brisk trade to Europe, the West Indies, and 
the States, in tobacco, provisions, naval stores, and lumber, which, 
in the last two quarters of this year, amounted to $1,852,883. 
In 1805, the amount in domestic produce was $3,880,347, and in 
foreign articles to $507,907. 

" The number of vessels from foreign ports entered at Norfolk 
in 1800, were three hundred and fifty-six ; in 1801, three hun- 
dred and sixty-nine ; in 1802, four hundred and fifty-three ; in 
1804, four hundred and eighty-four ; in 1805, three hundred 
and sixty-eight ; in 1806, three hundred and thirteen." 

About this time the streets were labelled and the houses num- 
bered. 

January 3d, 1807. An Act of Assembly was passed empower- 
ing the court of Norfolk Borough to cause the streets to be 
paved, on certain conditions. 

" Your harbour," says an observant visiter, alluding to this 
period, " capacious as it is, was filled with ships from foreign 
ports. The coasting trade, which distributed your imports, em- 
ployed hundreds of vessels, whose streamers, mingling on a gala 
day with the flags of the foreign ships, presented a cheering 
spectacle. A gentleman, recently deceased, who had come out 
of the war in the South with a shattered constitution, and who 
sought to recover his health by a sea trip to the North, informed 
me that it was difiicult even in 1787 to cross in a ferry boat from 
Norfolk to Portsmouth, on account of the great number of vessels 
in the harbour. Your warehouses were full of foreign and 
domestic products. Besides your stated population, there was 
always a body of transient people, respectable in point of num- 
bers, and demanding house-room and board. The houses ex- 
tended from the western end of INIain and Broad Water to their 
eastern extremity. Church Street was lined with tenements 
from Main Street to the borough limits. The people lived freely. 



116 HISTORICAL AND 

and indulged in those expenses which contribute to fill the trea- 
sury of a city. Horses, carriages, phaetons, chairs, carts, and 
drays, almost beyond number, abounded. Your market stalls 
alone at that day would have afforded a fine subject of taxation; 
for the demand for provisions for your stated and floating popu- 
lation was so great and so long continued, as to render every 
acre of ground, and every beast of the field, and every fowl of the 
air, within sixty or eighty miles around you, subsidiary to your 
market." 

" The rapidity with which the borough rose from utter ruin in 
1783 to the flourishing condition above described, attracted 
unusual attention, and the conviction was general that, as it had 
become so great from so poor a beginning in so short a time, it 
would continue to be one of the greatest (if not the greatest) 
commercial towns in the Union." 

" Without yielding to the spirit of a laudator temporis acti," 
said a gentleman, alluding to some of the Norfolk people of those 
days, " and willing to accord to the existing generation all that 
its merits deserve, I must declare that I have rarely met, either 
at home or abroad, Avith their equals. They possessed in an 
eminent degree what may be called the chivalry of the commer- 
cial character, and displayed in their bearing a dignity and grace 
which looked infinitely beyond an ignoble rivalry and the tricks 
of trade. One may look long even now in the Northern cities 
to find the counterpart of the counting-rooms of Pennock and 
Myers, in the meridian of your commercial renown. I have often 
regretted that the great merchants of your great epoch, crushed 
by political events which no human foresight could have antici- 
pated, bequeathed to their descendants no remnant of the wealth 
which flowed in upon them with every wind and from every shore. 
But they lived at a period of great political trial. We can, how- 
ever, emulate their worth, their enterprise, their magnanimous 
demeanour, and their comprehensive charity. 

" It is also delightful to contemplate the characters of the 
mothers and daughters of that day." 
} These were days "when," to use the forcible language of 
' another, " one might walk from Norfolk to Portsmouth on the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 117 

decks of the vessels at anchor in the harbour — -when the rich 
products of the Indies were piled on our wharves, and stored in 
our warehouses — when our merchants bought cargoes of cotton, 
corn, and tobacco, and shipped on private account — when Rich- 
mond and Petersburg were tributary to Norfolk, and their raer- - 
chants flocked periodically hither to purchase their supplies — 
when the business of Norfolk was comparatively larger than that 
of New York, and really larger than that of Baltimore — when 
Norfolk, as proud then of her citizens, and as rich in intellect as 
she was affluent and progressive in trade, boasted a triumvirate 
at the bar as brilliant as ever entranced a jury, or expounded 
constitutional law; when our majestic Tazewell adorned the 
Senate — when the gifted Taylor and Wirt wrestled in the Forum, 
and surpassed the models of antiquity in elegance of diction, 
power of eloquence, and splendour of forensic triumph. 

* * * * --;: ;;: * 

" The intellectual triumvirate is broken, not demolished ; 
Taylor, the laborious student, in after years the able and inde- 
fatigable lawyer ; Wirt, the splendid jurist, the captivating orator 
of the school of Cicero, whose magic eloquence aforetime gave a 
still deeper tint of loveliness to the shades of Blennerhassett — 
these sleep well. One polished shaft is still standing to tell of 
bygone days, venerable with the ivy of age and eloquent of 
almost classic memories : Tazewell, the astute statesman and 
retired citizen, yet lingers in our midst." 

In the summer of 1807 occurred the wanton attack of the 
British frigate Leopard upon the Chesapeake, and the seizure 
and imprisonment of several of her crew upon the allegation that 
they were British subjects. 

The Embargo Act of December 22d, 1807, having become the 
law of the land, the ports were of course closed ; exportation . 
nearly ceased, and business in the towns on the coast was sud- j 
denly and sadly interrupted. " In a moment, the commerce of 
the American Republic, from being in point of extent the second 
in the world, was reduced to a coasting trade between the indivi- 
dual States." 

1809. The embargo law was repealed, and " a ray of pros-/ 
perity burst through the general gloom." 



118 HISTOmCAL AND 

The Mechanical Benevolent Society was organized this year. 
In addition to the benevolent objects of this association, there is 
a provision by which the amount paid in by a member, is re- 
turned two-fold to his family after his death. The annual in- 
come at this time amounts to about $3000. It was incorpo- 
rated by Act of Assembly, January 19th, 1811. 

The following is the list of the places of amusement and re- 
creation in Norfolk and vicinity at this date, many of which 
continued for years after : — A theatre, the AVigwam Gardens, 
Vauxhall Gardens and Baths, Rosainville's Bower, Lindsay's 
Eetreat, Museum Natural, and Botanical Gardens. 

These were all pretty well attended and sustained. The gar- 
dens were frequented on Sundays, and on the evenings of the 
other days of the week ; and they were crowded on public occa- 
sions. Not one of these places now remains. This may be some 
evidence of the improvement in the morals of the community, to 
whom it is hoped the churches, the family circle,, the social even- 
ing party, and interesting books, present sufficient attraction to 
supersede the necessity of any of the above-named places of 
amusement ; although it is not denied that well-conducted gar- 
dens, aflFording the means of innocent recreation, and a pleasant 
retreat from the noise and bustle of the city, without furnishing 
the means of, and presenting temptations to, intemperance and 
dissipation, and encouraging the profanation of the Lord's day, 
would be a valuable acquisition to the city, and meet with the 
countenance and support of the public. 

The places above alluded to, probably received their principal 
support from visiters, and from foreigners and other persons 
connected with the shipping. But our citizens, old and young, 
the fair daughters of Norfolk especially, feel the want of some 
agreeable and pleasant place of resort as a promenade. We 
have no pleasant and inviting parks* or groves here, in which 
to take an evening ramble, and enjoy the balmy breezes in 
spring, summer, and autumn times ; with cheering strains of 

* The public parks of New York City are 10 in number, and embrace a 
space of more than 170 acres. The public parks in Philadelphia are 11 in 
number, and cover a large space of ground. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 119 

music to calm the troubled, agitated soul after tlio turmoil of 
the day; or, at "morning's earliest hour," to listen with delight 
to the cheerful notes of the feathered songsters of the grove.* 

The expediency of condemning the property west of Bank 
Street, opposite the City Hall, and of filling up the water-lots 
and Back Creek, between Bank and Granby Streets, for a 
public square, has been favourably considered by the councils. 
This Avoukl be an improvement of very great utility to the city, 
and, doubtless, increase the healthfulness, as well as the good 
appearance of the place. 

"The accomplishment of such a work has long been considered 
a desideratum to the improvement of the city, and, independent 
of the removal of such an unsightly spectacle from the very 
heart of the town, it will contribute in other respects to its sub- 
stantial advancement. We hope that the matter will be taken 
up in earnest by the two councils, and pressed with energy to 
its successful completion." 

January 11, 1811. Act of Assembly passed, authorizing the 
corporation to erect lamps for the purpose of lighting the streets. 

January 5, 1812. This day Avas set apart by the Mayor for 
an expression, on the part of the citizens, of condolence on ac- 
count of an awful calamity, that had fallen upon the city of 
Richmond — the burning of the theatre on the night of the 26th 
December of the preceding year, by which more than seventy 
lives were lost. Governor Smith, and other distinguished indi- 
viduals, were among the victims ; — a most heart-rending scene, 
one of those sudden and dreadful visitations that baffles all at- 
tempts at description. t The inhabitants of the borough of Nor- 

* In the flourishing city of Memphis, on the Mississippi, in Tennessee, there 
are large natural groves; and, but recently, the wild birds were warbling 
there, and sporting among the dense green foliage of the tall forest trees. 

f The theatre at Capo d'Istria, in Italy, fell, and crushed the performers and 
audience to death, February 6th, 1794. 

The theatre at Mentz was destroyed by fire during the performance, and, on 
the falling in of which, many were crushed to death, and above seventy burnt, 
August, 179G. 

The first play-house ever erected was that of Bacchus, at Athens, by Philos, 
B. C. 420. The ruins still exist. 



120 HISTORICAL AND 

folk, with those of other places, exhibited suitable evidences of 
their profound sorrow for the mournful event. 

The civil authorities, officers of the Army and Navy, the volun- 
teer companies, and an immense cuncourse of citizens, slowly 
marched, with solemn music, through the streets. An urn was 
carried in the procession ; the bells tolled a funeral knell, and 
an appropriate discourse was delivered. The Herald states, 
that " a more solemn and impressive scene was never witnessed 
in the borough." 

September 5, 1812. A private in Lieutenant Swift's corps 
of marines, stationed at the Navy Yard, having been sentenced 
to be shot, for deserting his post while on guard, this was the 
day appointed for his execution. " The awful moment was 
announced by the solemn roll of the drum ; the delinquent was 
conducted from the prison, with the usual ceremonies custo- 
mary on such occasions, and led to the fatal spot where he was 
to suffer. The whole detachment were under arms, twelve of 
whom were selected to execute the sentence. When the proces- 
sion halted, the lieutenant delivered an address, of which the fol- 
lowing is an extract : — 

" ' Soldiers ! — An awful scene is now presented for your con- 
templation. You behold before you one of your comrades, about 
to pay the forfeit of that crime, which it has been my constant 
duty to warn you against ; he enlisted to serve his country — and 
deserted. In peace, this is a crime of the first magnitude, and 

Theatres were first introduced into England in 156G ; opposed by the Puri- 
tans in 1633 ; revived by Cliarles II., 1G60. 

"Plays are unbecoming and pernicious pastimes." — Socrates. 

"They raise tlie passions, and pervert the use of them; and are, conse- 
quently, dangerous to morality." — Plato. 

"They are lascivious vanities and contagious evils." — Plutarch. 

" Plays are pernicious, and corrupt youth." — Sir Matthew Hale. 

"One play-house ruins more souls than fifty churches can save." — Judge 
Bulstrade. 

" Mr. Macready, the eminent tragedian, now resides at Sherborne, in the 
bosom of a most interesting family of twelve children. Among many excellent 
rules for the government of his family, is one from which, it is said, he has 
never deviated. It is that no one of his children should ever, on any pretence, 
enter a theatre, or have any visiting connexion with actors or actresses." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 121 

its penalty death ; how enormous then is the transgression of this 
man, who has deserted his country in her hour of peril. 

;}: ^: * * :'= * 

" ' The benefit of the service requires that he suffer death, and, 
in a few moments, he will be launched into eternity ! I beseech 
you, soldiers, to take warning from his fate ; fulfil the solemn 
obligations enjoined upon you, and refrain from the guilty path 
into which he has Avandered to his own destruction.' 

"At the conclusion of the speech a solemn pause ensued ; — a 
signal Avas given, and immediately the engines of death were 
aimed at the devoted Aactim ; — another pause, and the arm of 
death Avas arrested. An officer rushed through the crowd, hold- 
ing a paper in his hand. It was a reprieve .^" 



CHAPTER XIV. 
1813. 

War Declared — Warlike Preparations — Battle of Craney Island— Enemy's 
Fleet and Troops — Dreadful Execution of our Guns — Shameful Depredations 
of the British — Incidents of the Battle — Letter from General R. B. Taylor — 
Extracts from the Herald. 

Congress having declared Avar against Great Britain, Norfolk 
was, of course, from its position, expected to be a prominent point 
of attack ; therefore, a large force was concentrated here, and 
preparations were made to give the enemy a warm reception, 
whenever he might find it convenient to pay a visit to the hos- 
pitable old borough. 

June 22, 1813. On this memorable day Craney Island was 
attacked by the British, and defended in a manner that reflected 
lasting honour upon the noble band of heroes who took part in 
that important battle, as well as upon the State and country at 



122 HISTORICAL AND 

large. It was indeed a brilliant affair. The cool deliberation 
and mature judgment ; the bravery and enthusiasm which were 
so strikingly manifested on the occasion by our comparatively 
small force, and the complete success of the day, all united to 
render this battle one of the most decisive and victorious that 
occurred during the war. 

Craney Island lies about five miles from Norfolk, commanding 
the inward approach from Hampton Roads ; and on its defence 
depended the safety of the borough, as well as of Portsmouth 
and the surrounding country. The splendid repulse of the 
enemy there, doubtless, prevented a more severe and bloody 
conflict, if not an exhibition of inhumanity and barbarity similar 
to that Avhich took place at Hampton, shortly after this engage- 
ment. 

The fortifications of this small island were ordered by Major 
General "VVade Hampton, during his command of this district, 
and the works were executed under the direction of Colonel 
Armistead. 

The enemy's fleet had come up to Newport's News on the 
21st, and were soon in readiness to cover the intended attack of 
the boats on the following day. The British presented a very 
formidable and imposing array. There were about twenty ves- 
sels, consisting of seventy-fours, frigates, and transports, and an 
armed force of about 4000 men. 

A small battery was erected by the Virginians on the island, 
mounting one eighteen-pounder, two twenty-four, and four six- 
pounders. Our force consisted, principally, of about 400 militia- 
men, one company of riflemen, and two companies of light 
artillery, one of which was commanded by Captain Arthur Emer- 
son, of Portsmouth. General Robert B. Taylor, the command- 
ing ofiicer of the District at this time, increased this small force 
by a detachment of 30 men from Fort Norfolk,* commanded by 

* This is a circular brick fort, on tlie north side of the river, and about a 
mile from the western limits of the city. It has been long neglected, and is 
fast falling into ruins. Fort Norfolk is situated nearly opposite the U. S. Naval 
Hospital, the site of old Fort Nelson. These forts were, of course, intended 
to guard the entrance to the inner harbour. During the war, an immense 
chain was extended across the river from these two points. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 123 

Captain Pollard, of the U. S. Army. Lieutenant Johnson, of 
Culpcper, and Ensign A. Atkinson, of Captain Hamilton 
Shields's Company of Riflemen, from Isle of Wight, with about 
30 volunteers, were also added, by order of the chief officer. 
Lieutenants Neale, Shubrick, and Saunders, with about 150 sea- 
men, also joined our force, by the direction of Captain Tarbell, 
of the U. S. Ship Constellation, then at the naval anchorage, 
and they acted a brave and noble part in the battle. Captain 
Emmerson and Lieutenant Thomas Godwin, each commanded a 
twenty-four-pounder, and the eighteen-pounder was commanded 
by Captain Rooke, who was at this time master of a merchant- 
sliip_tlie Manhattan, of New York— then at anchor in our har- 
bour. These three pieces of ordnance were served by men from 
the Constellation. Lieutenant Howie, Sergeants Young and 
Livingston, and Corporal Moffatt, separately commanded the 
six-pounders, at which was stationed the artillery company of 
Portsmouth. The whole force concentrated at the Island was in 
command of Colonel Beatty, assisted by Majors Wagner and 
Faulkner. 

" A long pole was got, to which the ' star-spangled banner' 
was nailed, the pole planted in the breastwork, and the stars and 
stripes floated in the breeze." 

About 2600 of the British troops landed at a distance of two 
miles below the Island, and the action was commenced by that 
division of the enemy's force. Congreve rockets were thrown 
upon the Island, from a house on the mainland, within cannon- 
shot of our battery, and owned by Captain George Wise. Cap- 
tain Rooke, who was nearest this point, was ordered to fire into 
the house, the view of which was partially obstructed by a thick 
growth of trees. A brisk fire of grape and canister-shot was 
immediately opened upon it ; and such was the precision with 
which the guns were served, that the British were completely 
routed, with a loss of many killed and wounded; among the 
former, two of the officers. The eighteen-pounder, served as it 
was with extraordinary rapidity, and aimed with unerring pre- 
cision, dealt death and destruction at every fire.* Meanwhile, 

* Captain Rooke had been a member of one of the companies in service, but 
-was discharged at his own request, and took command of the ship Manhattan, 



124 HISTORICAL AND 

the enemy was approaching the island with fifty large barges, 
filled with soldiers, to the number of about 1500, advancing in 
regular column-order, led on by the Admiral's boat of twenty- 
four oars, and fifty-two feet long, with a brass three-pounder in 
her bow. When Captain Emmerson supposed that they were 
near enough to be reached by his twenty-four- pounder, he cried 
out, in a loud, stern voice, "Now, boys, are you ready?" and 
the quick response was, " We are ready.'' "Fire !" rejoined 
the brave and enthusiastic Captain ; and the battery fortliAvith 
opened upon them a dreadful fire of grape and canister. The 
foremost boats advanced, however, until they grounded, "when 
so quick and galling was the fire, that they were thrown into the 
greatest confusion, and forthwith commenced a hasty retreat. 
Four or five of the boats were sunk, one of them the Admiral's 
barge ; and many others were so shattered that it was with diffi- 
culty they were kept afloat." 

An eventful moment had come and passed ; and exceedingly 
important interests were involved in the result of this engage- 

of New York, wliich was at that time bound from Norfolk to Europe, with a 
load of lumber. He was requested by Captain Emmerson to aid in the contest, 
and consented. While the enemy was approaching the island, it was found, to 
the dismay of our men, that the ordnance were not in a suitable position, and 
would prove useless unless removed ; and yet it was thought impossible to 
make the alteration in time. At this crisis, Captain R. asked for a certain 
number of men, and the work was soon accomplished; the guns were qiiickly 
ready for the work of death. 

Rooke was a man of astonishing energy and spirit ; of unwavering perseve- 
rance and dauntless bravery. Some thought, after the fight, that to his effi- 
cient services we were principally indebted for the decisive result in our favour. 
He discovered, on the occasion, a British soldier, probably an officer, up in a 
tree, making observations, whereupon he immediately took aim, and the un- 
erring shot carried away one of the man's legs. 

Captain R. died suddenly, at Key West, Fa., in June, 1834, aged 45. His 
estimable widow resides in Philadelphia. They had nine children, four sons 
and five daughters, all of whom are now living, and all, except one, have been 
married. Five of them reside in Philadelphia, one in Norfolk, one in Ports- 
mouth, one in South Carolina, and one in Texas. 

No legal claim can be made upon the Government by his heirs, as he had 
been dischai-ged when the battle took place. A special appropriation by Con- 
gress, would, under the circumstances, meet with the approbation of a grateful 
people. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 125 

ment. The enemy's force was large and formidable ; ours, com- 
paratively, as to numbers, inconsiderable. When the firing of 
the guns announced the commencement of the action, hundreds 
of our citizens, both male and female, young and old, hastened 
to the shores on the northwestern part of the town ; and as, with 
straining eyes, they gazed upon the approaching enemy, and 
witnessed the quick and vivid flashes from the engines of death, 
their hearts beat with emotion ; for there were fathers, and sons, 
and brothers there. And then, the day might not have been 
gained, the victory might not have been won, by that gallant 
band of heroes ; and who could tell their fate, and the sad con- 
sequences that might have followed a defeat ; the distress and 
suffering that might have fallen with crushing weight upon the 
inhabitants of the two towns, should the enemy have succeeded 
in gaining possession of them ? But there were brave and 
powerful men there ; and the zeal, activity, and furi/ of the Vir- 
ginians on this occasion, have seldom, if ever, been surpassed. 
The execution of the guns was terrible. From the commence- 
ment of the firing, till the boats had retreated beyond the reach 
of the balls, there was almost a constant blaze and one continual 
roar ; while the mathematical precision with which the faithful 
guns were served, from first to last, was truly wonderful. Every 
fire appeared to deal death and havoc among the enemy's troops, 
a number of whom were killed and many were wounded ; some 
were drowned, while others clung to the sinking boats, and cried 
piteously for help. 

A ball from Captain Emmerson's gun is said to have almost cut 
in twain and sunk the Admiral's barge ; some, however, gave the 
credit to Lieutenant Howie ; while others thought that Sergeant 
William P. Young, with his six-pounder, did the business. It 
was, doubtless, very difficult to tell which gun did the most fear- 
ful execution ; although it is very generally conceded, that to 
Captain E. a large share of the honour of the day was justly due. 

The loss of the enemy in killed, wounded, and prisoners was 
two hundred. The Virginians did not lose a single man.* 

* Before the enemy's forces liad left the main land, the remaining supply of 
po-wder on the island blew up, from some unknown cause, and the sentinel 
that guarded it was killed. Fortunately, the British troops did not discover 
the accident. 



126 HISTORICAL AND 

Here, as in 1775, at the battle of the Great Bridge, fifteen 
miles distant, not one of the sons of freedom fell — no hero, over 
whose mortal remains to erect a monument. It is believed, that 
if a single life had been lost from the ranks of the Virginians, a 
suitable and enduring memorial would have been speedily raised 
to his memory. 

During the action, Captain Shields's riflemen waded out for 
some distance, hoping to get within reach of the enemy, but did 
not generally succeed. Some of our men brought the Admiral's 
boat, the Centij^ede, to the shore, with a number of guns, pistols, 
and cutlasses. On board of this barge, one of the enemy's men 
was found with both legs shot off. Our men carefully wrapped 
him in the sails of the boat, and took him to the shore, where 
death soon put an end to his sufferings. The twenty-four pounder, 
commanded by Lieutenant Godwin, and one of the six-pounders, 
were disabled by the breaking of the carriages, in consequence 
of the heavy charges and rapid firing.* 

That portion of the British troops that had landed, returned 
to the shipping in the afternoon, after having committed most 
shameful depredations, such as " shooting hogs, sheep, &c., 
breaking furniture, cutting open beds, &c., in the dwelling-houses 
near which they landed." 

The following is an extract of a letter from General Taylor to 
the Secretary of War, dated July 4th, 1813. 

" The courage and constancy with which this inferior force, in 
the face of a formidable naval armament, not only sustained a 
position in which nothing was complete, but repelled the enemy 
with considerable loss, cannot fail to command the approbation 
of their government, and the applause of their country. It has 
infused in the residue of the army, a general spirit of competi- 

* The descriptions that have been published of this battle have generally 
been very incorrect. Great injustice has been done to the chief actors. The 
reader will scarcely believe that such a statement as the following could have 
been made by one who had the means of furnishing all the particulars. This 
is an extract from one of the several erroneous accounts. 

" Major Faulkner and Captain Emerson, with the brave volunteers and 
militia, were on the island, ready, no doubt, and anxious to take part in the 
fight ; but the enemy did not come within range of musket-shot, and the battle 
was fought with three eighteen-pounders, worked by the seamen, and directed 
by the officers, from the frigate Constellation."(!!) 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 127 

tion, the beneficial effects of which will, I trust, be displayed in 
our future combats. 

" I cannot withhold my grateful acknowledgments to Commo- 
dore Cassin, Captain Tarbell, and the other officers and crews of 
the Constellation and gun-boats, ayIio have, in every instance, 
aided our operations with a cordiality, zeal, and ability, not to 
be surpassed." 

The following extract relative to the battle is from the Herald : 
" Such a band of heroes as lately united their efforts to fortify 
and defend the town of Norfolk, deserve the plaudits of their 
country. It was very fortunate that Governor Barbour and 
General Taylor were in office at a period so extremely critical ; 
for no men could have exerted themselves more for the salvation 
of the State. Aid was sent from all parts of Virginia. At 
every alarm the whole people were in arms. The old and the 
young were seen at their posts, and each seemed to rival his 
neighbour in alacrity and zeal. The defenders of Craney Island 
are entitled to the warmest thanks of every true patriot. The 
invading enemy was astonished, when he saAV his attempts so 
ably repulsed, and so soon rendered abortive. Thus the great 
Ruler of the universe frequently permits the valour of a few to 
defeat the wicked projects of the ambitious."* 



CHAPTER XV. 
1813. 

Anxiety of the Citizens— General Taylor — Fortifications— Forts Tar and Bar- 
bour — 54th Regiment — Lieutenant Broughton — Orders to March to Slaugh- 
ter's Field — Excitement — False Alarm — Spirited Remarks of the Herald — 
Excitement Increased — Mr. Broughton's Statement — The Independents — 
54th Regiment — Juniors — Artillery — Admiral Cochrane — Militia — Effect of 
the Repulse at the Island. 

Great anxiety continued to be felt for the safety of Norfolk, 
Portsmouth, and the surrounding country, and it was indeed a 

" The anniversary of the battle of Craney Island should be celebrated, at 
least by the gallant volunteers of Norfolk and Portsmouth. 



128 IIISTOmCAL AND 

fortunate circumstance that officers so efficient and energetic 
were in command here at the time. The enemy desired to 
gain possession of the two towns, and had intended to make 
a great effort to obtain them. Had success crowned the attack 
of the British, the consequences would, doubtless, have been 
lamentable ; and the towns once gained, it would have required 
tremendous exertions, if not a second general conflagration, to 
dispossess them. Consequently, the soldiers and citizens were 
required by the officers to be exceedingly vigilant. It was feared 
that they might land at some point on the bay shore, and pro- 
ceed by land to the town ; in view of which, a redoubt was thrown 
up, south of Armistead's Bridge, called Fort Tar ; after which, 
other fortifications were erected, with great labour and despatch, 
near the northeastern extremity of the town, and called Fort 
Barbour,* the remains of which are still to be seen on the east 
of Church Street, and south of Princess Anne Road. 

We are indebted to the Herald for the following editorial 
remarks : 

" On the day of the attack on Craney Island (June 22, 1813), 
the 54th regiment, Norfolk Borough, was called out, en masse, 
and the Avriter of this article (then a Lieutenant of the 54th) was 
assigned the command of a draft of forty men, to escort the 
prisoners and deserters from the British (about the same num- 
ber) to Richmond, to be delivered to the United States Marshal. 
The militia of the regiment were kept under arms on that occa- 
sion some ten or fifteen days, — during Avhich time they were 
turned out, one bright Sabbath morning, upon an alarm brought 
to town by a vidette of the guard stationed at Sewell's Point, 
that the enemy were binding on the shore between them and the 
mouth of Tanner's Creek. The intelligence came so direct, and 
was related with so much circumstantiality, that no one pre- 
tended to doubt that the enemy had landed in good earnest, and 
would be upon us in two or three hours at the utmost. 

" Their orders were to march with all haste to Slaughter's Old 
Field (ominous name !), about three miles from the city, on the 

* A brick-kiln, just ready for burning, being on the line of this work, dirt 
was thrown over it, and it assisted in forming the fortification. The remains 
of the kiln were discovered in 1850. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 129 

Princess Anne Road, and there wait the enemy's coming (which, 
no one doubted, woukl he in less than an hour), and amuse him, 
while the different regiments around the city Avcre takino- up 
their most advantageous positions for defence. The excitement 
was great among the women and children in town, and the feel- 
ings of their natural protectors, thus compelled to leave them to 
the fate of war, were none of the pleasantest. They put a good 
face on it, however, and with a dogged determination to do their 
dut}'-, they took the dangerous post assigned them. But it proved 
to be a false alarm." 

An officer rode impetuously through the ranks, announcing 
that the enemy had really landed, and was preparing to enter 
the town. The drums beat to arms, the greatest enthusiasm was 
exhibited by many, and the most active preparations were made 
to receive the hostile army. It was either on this or a subse- 
quent occasion, as we have learned, that the alarm given was 
intentionally false, to test the readiness on the part of our troops 
for an attack, and which proved quite satisfactory. 

On April 5th, 1814, the following stirring, patriotic, and belli- 
gerent editorial appeared in the columns of the Norfolk Herald, 
and tended to increase the anxiety and excitement, which were 
already great, among both citizens and soldiers : 

" The long talked of expedition Avhich the enemy has been 
preparing at Bermuda and elsewhere, to come against the Southern 
ports of the United States is now, we may reasonably suppose, 
on its way hither. Report says, that the armament composing 
this expedition consists of a large number of ships of the line 
and frigates ; also gun-boats, bomb-ketches, rocket vessels, &c., 
with all the various engines of death and destruction ; and a 
land force of five or six thousand marines and riflemen ! In a 
few days, perhaps to-morrow, Ave may hear of their arrival in the 
Chesapeake, or in Hampton Roads, for Norfolk Avill certainly be 
the first point of attack. It would be mere idle boastino; in us 
to say, that the enemy, with a force which he has taken ample 
time to prepare, and has, no doubt, adapted to the natural ob- 
stacles he will have to contend against, will come into our waters 
merely to threaten and alarm us, and return without attempting 
anything : such an idea would be absurd. They will assuredly 



130 HISTORICAL AND 

make a desperate attempt to get possession of Norfolk and Ports- 
mouth, but whether they will succeed is by no means so certain. 
Indeed, let every man, whether citizen or soldier, go resolutely 
to work, resolved to contend as long as life lasts, to repel the 
invader or die in the attempt, and it will be morally impossible 
for the town to be taken. The geographical situation of Norfolk 
is such that it cannot be taken with its present defences, without 
the enemy should meet with simultaneous success, from a simul- 
taneous attack by land and water. For let them land and gain 
possession of the town, unless they have the harbour free for 
their shipping to come up, they cannot keep it, and to retreat, 
they would be cut to pieces. And where could they lard their 
six thousand men for the attack, that a complement of two thou- 
sand would not cut them up before they reached the town ? 
The nearest point at which they could land would be thirteen 
miles off, and their road (let them choose Avhich they please), 
would be principally through almost impenetrable thickets of 
pine and myrtle, whose thick foliage would afford excellent am- 
buscades for our riflemen and light infantry. Besides this, we 
could throw such obstructions in the way of the enemy's march 
as would, with the co-operation of judicious ambuscades, throw 
them into disorder and render their capture or destruction in- 
evitable. Upon the known courage and skill of our gallant tars, 
and the garrisons in the different forts, we may rely with confi- 
dence for the defence of the town in fhe event of an attack by 
water. 

" Again we say, let every man who can carry a musket, or any 
other weapon that will destroy the enemy, fly to meet him at the 
water s edge, and dispute every inch of ground to the thresh- 
old of his own dwelling ; and there protect his property and fire- 
side while a drop of blood flows in his veins. Let us fulfil our 
duty to our country/, and those dear dependents on our protection, 
our wives and children, and Heaven will smile upon and prosper 
our efforts. But if we basely fly, or avoid the struggle, contempt 
and infamy will pursue us to an ignominious grave. Who that 
feels the honest glow of national pride, but instinctively feels 
the blush of shame suffuse his cheek at the bare thought of an 
important and flourishing town, situated in the heart of our 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 131 

country, and at the threshold of the capitol, falling into the 
hands of an invader ? Norfolk once taken by the enemy could 
be held until given up by negotiation, or an act of grace. But 
we have said enough. It were treason to doubt that the brave 
sons of Virginia would not defend their soil and justify the highest 
expectations of their country." 

The folloAving particulars are given by T. G. Broughton, Esq., 
of the Herald : 

" In June, 1812, a new volunteer company was recruited from 
the line of the 54th, called the ' Independents.' It was officered 
by Captain Julian Magagnos, and Lieutenants George Lindsay 
and John Capron. There was no further call upon the 54th 
regiment, that the writer remembers, after the expiration of the 
first six months' tour, which was in August, 1813, until the fol- 
lowing year, when, probably about the month of March, 1814, 
the army having been greatly reduced in number, by discharges 
on expiration of terms of service, our volunteers were again called 
into service, with the addition of the new corps of Independents, 
until new drafts could arrive from the upper country. They 
served a tour of three months." 

^ ^- '^f^ ^ if ■'.' 

" The army at this station (one regiment of U. S. Infantry in 
the field, and one battalion of Artillery in the forts excepted) 
was composed of volunteers and drafted militia, from all parts 
of the State, and, towards the close of the war, from North Ca- 
rolina. The 54th regiment, Norfolk Borough, was frequently 
called out, en masse, for brief periods, during the war ; but the 
volunteers served for specified terms. The Juniors, Captain G. 
W. Camp ; the Cavalry, Captain Thomas McCandlish, and the 
Light Artillery, Captain George Ott, volunteered their services 
at the commeiicement of the war, but were not mustered into the 
United States service till the February after, when the enemy 
having invaded our Avaters with his ships of war, for the first 
time, on the 3d of that month, the Governor of Virginia (the 
late James Barbour), issued his proclamation calling out a mili- 
tary force from the neighbouring and upper country, which con- 
tinued to arrive by companies, until, towards the close of the 
month, there had assembled some three or four thousand men. 



132 HISTORICAL AND 

As fast as possible they were organized into regiments ; and 
although the 54th regiment was exempted from the requisition, 
with a view to hold them in reserve, with good drilling, as minute 
men, the volunteer companies before named applied for, and 
obtained permission to join the regiment which was about being 
organized. 

" In August, 1814, when the expedition under Admiral Coch- 
rane went up the bay to attack Washington and Baltimore, a 
draft Avas made on the different militia regiments on the south 
side of James River, below tide water, for a reinforcement of 
one regiment. A company of one hundred men was drafted 
from the 54th regiment, as its quota towards the new regiment ; 
which, when complete, was commanded by Colonel Bernard 
Magnien, of the 7th regiment, Norfolk County. But the news 
of the blow having been struck on Washington being received 
soon after, the whole of the volunteers and militia of Norfolk 
Borough, Norfolk County, and Princess Anne were called out, 
en masse, and remained in service until about the 23d of Oc- 
tober, when the enemy's force having quit the Chesapeake, to 
prepare for the expedition against New Orleans, they were dis- 
charged. Those who served in Magnien's regiment were (as the 
writer believes) in service some two months and thirteen days ; 
those subsequently called out in the 54th, C7i masse, served about 
two months. The Juniors, Cavalry, and Artillery, served three 
tours ; the Independents two. The precise period for which the 
regiment performed service on sundry brief emergencies, have 
escaped the recollection of the writer." 

The quick and decisive repulse at the Island, had taught the 
enemy a lesson not easily to be forgotten. The castigation, 
though very severe, they knew to be only a trifle, in comparison 
with what Avas to be expected from another and- more general 
engagement ; and the brave soldiers at this station had but little 
further trouble with the chagrined and numerous forces of the 
enemy. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 133 

CHAPTER XVI. 

1813—1814. 

General Taylor— Officers, &c., of the Army— Colonel Sharp— Major Camp- 
Lieutenant Ferguson — Captain Capron — Major Maurice, Colonel McConico, 
Captain Shields, &c. — Parade Grounds — Lieutenant Ball Assassinated — 
Arrest — Trial and Conviction of a Sentinel — Schooner Tartar — Princess 
Anne Militia — British Squadron — General Parkei- — Midshipman Hall Killed. 

General Robert B. Taylor, for some time the chief officer of 
the District, was an eminent orator and Lawyer, as Avell as a dis- 
tinguished commander. He was justly regarded as one of the 
most talented citizens of Norfolk, where he resided, and, in fact, 
of the State of Virginia, which was " proud to consider him one 
of her worthiest sons." His polished manners and rare attain- 
ments were highly appreciated by his fellow-citizens of the town 
and adjacent counties.* Having retired from the comrnand of 
the army at this place, it was transferred to General Parker, on 
Friday, February 4th, 1814. 

The following editorials and communications appeared in the 
Herald on the ensuing Tuesday : 

"We cannot look back upon the term of General Taylor's 
continuance in office, without adding our mite to the applause, 
which he has so amply merited and universally received. Ap- 
pointed to an arduous command, involving the most serious re- 
sponsibility, at a period truly critical, and without the aid of expe- 
rience to direct him, he has triumphed over every obstacle ; and 
by his zeal, perseverance, and vigilance, acquired that capability 
in his new station, which, to a mind less active and intelligent, 
would have been a Avork of years. Conscious, however, that the 
worth and services of General Taylor do not require any eulo- 
gium of ours to illustrate them, or impress them more firmly and 
deeply in the minds of his fellow-citizens, we prefer presenting 
to our readers the subjoined correspondencies, which we have 
selected from among many others that have fallen into our hands. 
Such honourable testimonials of his patriotism and public worth, 

* See further description of General T., in another part of this work. 



134 HISTORICAL AND 

will better illustrate the high estimation in which he was held by 
those whom he commanded, and their deep regret at his retire- 
ment from office : 

" 'Extract from Adjutant-General's Office. 

"'Norfolk, Feb. 6, 1814. 

'"general orders. 
" ' The Commanding General has been much pleased with the 
condition of Forts Nelson and Norfolk ; and the Brigade of State 
Troops has surpassed his expectations in its acquirement of the 
knowledge of field exercises, and has, in the exercises of the 4th 
and oth inst., done honour to itself, and the Brigadier General 
commanding it. 

" ' By command, 

(Signed) " ' James Bankhead, 

" 'Adjutant General.' 

" ' The citizens of Norfolk and Portsmouth, desirous of offer- 
ing to General Taylor, upon his retiring from the army, some 
evidence of the great respect they entertain for him — of the very 
high consideration in which they hold the patriotic zeal that in- 
duced him originally to accept his late important command at 
this place, and to add theirs to the general and ample testimony 
already furnished of the activity and skill he has at all times 
displayed, as well as of the just and proper regard he has conti- 
nually paid to the civil rights of his fellows-citizens, during his 
whole period of service here, beg the favour of him to meet them 
at a public dinner, which they have caused to be prepared at 
Ducoing's Long Room, on Wednesday next, at three o'clock. 

" ' LiTT. W. Tazewell, 
Moses Myers, 
Richard Blow, 
J. H. Fawn, 
FraisJcis S. Taylor, 
P. Barraud, 
Walter Herron, 
R. E. Steed, 
W. T. NivisoN, 
Wm. Cammack, 

" ' Committee. 
"'NoEFOLK, Feb. 5, 1814.' 



descriptive sketches. 135 

" ' Gentlemen : — 

" ' Next to the approval of his own conscience, the most pre- 
cious reward which a public officer can receive, is the confidence 
of his countrymen. Judge, then, how deeply my heart is pene- 
trated by the testimony of approbation Avhich the citizens of 
Norfolk and Portsmouth, the constant witnesses of all my mili- 
tary acts, have condescended to offer me. I dare not appro- 
priate them to myself; it is rather the offspring of their generous 
regard for good intention than of actual merit. But in this 
very proportion that my services have been overrated by their 
generosity, will be my future gratitude to justify the partiality. 

" ' I accept the invitation, 

" ' And have the honour to be, 
" ' Very respectfully, 

" 'Your obedient servant, 
(Signed) " ' Robert B. Taylor. 

"' To L. W. Tazewell, &c. 

" 'A Committee on behalf of the Citizens.' 



" 'Cavalry Quarters, 6th Feb., 1814. 

" ' General Taylor : — 

" ' Sir, — Language cannot describe the feelings of the Officers 
of the Cavalry, in parting from you, as a commander in whose 
favour they feel so strongly prepossessed. Although their ac- 
quaintance is short, and however incapable they may be of judg- 
ing, they feel an irresistible conviction, that you are eminently 
qualified to conduct an army to victory, and shed on the Ameri- 
can arms that lustre which the freemen of Columbia are en- 
titled to. 

" ' We feel confidently assured, notwithstanding you have re- 
tired from the army, you will not remain an idle spectator in the 
hour of invasion and danger, but will inspire all around you with 
confidence and courage. The die seems to be cast — we are com- 
pelled to part — may your worth and services be always duly ap- 
preciated ; you carry with you our warmest feelings and most 



136 HISTORICAL AND 

sincere wishes for your future welfare and happiness, whether in 
retirement, or in the service of your country. 

" ' Thos. Hunton, 

" ' Major Commandant of Cavalry. 

" ' Wm. R. Smith, Capt. 
Joseph Sandford, Capt. 
Nicholas Os^urn, Lt. 
E. HuNTON, Adj. 
Mesheck Laury, 1st Lt. 
Joshua Osburn, 2d Lt. 
John Brown, 2d Lt. 
Benj. Manable, 1st Lt. 
Saml. Weaver, Cornet. 
David Lovett, Cornet.' 

" ' Norfolk, Jan. 7, 1814. 

" ' Gentlemen : — 

" ' Accept my gratitude — 'tis the offering of a heart too much 
enamoured of a soldier's life, to he indifferent to a soldier's 
praise — your generosity has indeed greatly outstripped my de- 
serts. * * * * * * * 
In every circumstance of my future life, it will be a precious sa- 
tisfaction to me that you have deigned to mingle your regrets 
with those which I experience in retiring from the army. 

" ' We separate. — My best wishes go with you. As soldiers, 
may your standard be always glorious and triumphant. — As citi- 
zens, may you be honoured and happy. 
" ' I have the honour to be, 

" ' Very respectfully, 
" ' Your most obedient servant, 

" ' Robert B. Taylor. 
" ' To Major Hunton, Commandant, 
" ' The Officers of the Cavalry, 

" ' In the U. S. service at Norfolk.' " 

Among the officers and private soldiers assembled and in ser- 
vice at Norfolk during the last war with England, there were, 
in addition to those mentioned, many men who were ornaments 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 137 

to society, and whose great ^vorth of character reflected, honour 
and dignity upon the stations which they were called to fill. 

The 9th Regiment was commanded by Colonel Wm. Sharp, 
"who," said an officer that served under him during the cam- 
paign, at Norfolk, "was a gentleman, a patriot, and a chival- 
rous officer. He was tall ; as straight as the barrel of a rifle ; 
and sharp, indeed, was the look from his dark eye. I loved him 
truly, as did the whole of our regiment. He was careful of the 
health of his troops, and vigilant in all things becoming a good 
officer and soldier." Colonel S. was highly complimented by 
Wade Hampton, a distinguished general officer, and the move- 
ments of his regiment spoken of in terms of great commenda- 
tion.* 

Major George W. Camp, who acted as brigade inspector, was 
greatly esteemed by citizens and soldiers as an efficient officer 
and accomplished gentleman. The rigid and impartial, yet mild, 
manner in which he required a compliance with the rules, com- 
manded the most profound respect of the soldiery ; while his 
intelligence, polite attentions, and great urbanity of manners, 
endeared him to his numerous friends and acquaintances, with 
the strongest ties of affectionate regard. f 

Lieutenant Peter Ferguson (now of St. Louis, Missouri), who 
performed the important duties of adjutant, was a very active 
and excellent officer. Said a cotemporary, "he could get a 
regiment ready for the commandant sooner than any man I have 
ever seen attempt it."t 

* Colonel S. was the father of Wm. W. Sharp, Esq., of this city, well and ex- 
tensively known as a lawyer of much experience and ability. As a talented 
and successful forensic pleader, he ranks deservedly high among the members 
of his profession, and the inhabitants of Norfolk and vicinity. Mr. S. has been 
for a number of years, the efficient president of the board of directors of the 
Exchange Bank; having been first elected to fill the vacancy occasioned by the 
death of Swepson Whitehead, Esq., who was also a lawyer of considerable dis- 
tinction, as well as a gentleman of great worth of character. 

f Father of George AV. Camp, Esq., of this city, formerly attorney at law, 
whose legal knowledge is extensive, and which he communicates with a clear- 
ness and readiness, indicative of a strong, well-balanced, and highly cultivated 
mind. 

X Brother of F. F. Ferguson, Esq., of this city, assessor and commissioner of 
revenue. 



138 HISTORICAL AND 

Captain John Capron also acted as adjutant after Lieutenant 
Ferguson. " He was prompt in his arrangements, and as quick 
as a flash." 

Among the officers, were Colonel Manning, Colonel A. J. 
M'Conico, Majors Maurice and Richie, Captain Hamilton 
Shields* (whose activity, efficiency, and usefulness in directing 
and supervising the several public works of defence, and whose 
intelligence and gentlemanly bearing as an officer, rendered him 
justly conspicuous in the army, and gained for him many friends, 
and the esteem of the citizens of the borough generally) ; Captain 
Taylor, of the Richmond Riflemen; Captain Arthur Cooper,t of 
the cavalry ; Alexander Taylor, of the Petersburg Blues ; Court- 
ney, of King and Queen ; Magagnoes, of the Norfolk Independents ; 
Marshall, of the Riflemen, from Powhatan ; M'Candlish, Jarvis, 
George Ott, Thomson, Foster, and Graves ; Dixon and Smith, 
Washington County ; Poindexter, from Louisa ; Woodson, from 
Prince Edward ; Sale, from Amherst ; M'Mullion and Dickson, 
from Rockbridge ; Baily, from Shenandoah ; Richardson and 
Cromer, from Frederick ; Rowland from Botetourt, Gregory, 
from Berkeley ; Davenport, from Jeff'erson ; Cackley, from Bath ; 
Sergeants Buchanan and Jennings ; Lieutenants Newton, King, 
Powell, &c. 

There were also, Colonels Chilton, M'Donald, Coleman, and 
Parker ; Majors Washington, and Hunter ; Captains Baker, 
Quarles, Nimmo, Clark, Gilbert ; Adjutants Vincent and Ball ; 
Lieutenants Campbell, Rogers, &c.J 

The first place selected for a parade-ground and encampment 
was on Briggs' Point, comprising the space bounded by Plume's 
Cove on the north, Newton's Creek on the east, Marion Street 
on the south, and Fenchurch on the west. This piece of land 
was then a spacious and beautiful green. Here the tents were 

* Subsequently founder and editor of the American Beacon. 

•j- For nearly twenty years city inspector. 

J In these statements, the reader may find that the names of individuals are 
omitted who acted a prominent part in the military affairs of this period. 
If the name of any officer, however, who was justly distinguished is not in- 
cluded, the omission may be regarded as purely accidental. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 139 

erected ; and the busy, bustling, and noisy, though monotonous 
scenes of the camp, were experienced and exhibited for several 
months. There was another parade-ground in a field near the 
old Presbyterian Church, corner of Charlotte and Catharine 
Streets, and there was one on the north of the lot now embraced 
in the Cedar Grove Cemetery. It included the present Aims- 
House grounds. The second regiment encamped and paraded 
on a lot near Armistead's Bridge, and opposite a rope-walk and 
tannery, then in operation on the west side of the road leading 
to the bridge.* 

During the exciting times, when the soldiery were congregated 
at this place and vicinity, many interesting events transpired, — 
quite enough to fill a large volume. But we must pass on with- 
out attempting to present them to the reader. There was one 
circumstance, however, which claims a passing notice. 

Adjutant Ball, of the 4th Regiment, and attached to a Rifle 
Company from Winchester, Frederick County, was a young 
gentleman of great respectability, and extraordinary promise. 
He was highly distinguished for his genius, which had been cul- 
tivated by an excellent education. He manifested such remark- 
able talents as an artist, especially in the line of engraving, 
etching, &c., that he had already attracted the attention of men 
of long-established reputation in these important and useful de- 
partments of artistic skill. 

He was on his way with orders from Fort Nelson to Norfolk, 
in May, 1813, and when about passing the post of one of the 
sentinels, he was accosted, and accordingly answered as usual. 
The sentinel, not being satisfied, apparently, with his answer, 
called him, and he started towards him ; whereupon the sentinel 
fired ; and the ball passing through a vital part, he fell, — a 
victim to an unaccountable intent to murder him thus voluntarily 
and barbarously. The excitement was tremendous ; for he was 
a favourite with all who knew him ; his attainments and gentle- 
manly deportment had rendered him conspicuously known in the 
community. The law, however, after some difficulty, was allowed 

* An account of the sickness among the troops -will be found in another part 
of the work. 



140 HISTORICAL AND 

to have its course with the guilty, murderous man. An immense 
concourse of persons attended the funeral, and there was every 
manifestation of sorrow and sympathy for the deceased, whose 
remains were buried in the cemetery at Portsmouth, Avhere a 
suitable monument was erected to his memory by his fellow- 
soldiers. 

The assassin was tried, and found guilty of murder ; but the 
lawyers obtained a new trial for him, and he escaped with liis life 
to the penitentiary, where he remained for a long term, suffering 
a punishment which only partially atoned for the dreadful crime 
he had committed. The death of Adjutant Ball was not only 
considered a loss to the army, and to his native town, but to the 
State and the country, to which, it was thought by those who 
knew him, that his mental ability promised highly important 
services. 

On the night of the 20th of December, 1813, the privateer 
schooner Tartar grounded on Cape Henry, and bilged. The 
weather being severely cold, and the wind high, the sufferings of 
the crew were exceedingly severe. Six of the men froze to 
death, and many others were frost-bitten. 

Towards the close of the following day, the British, after con- 
siderable trouble, succeeded in burning the vessel, together with 
her cargo, consisting of nearly a thousand barrels of flour. A 
small company of Princess Anne Militiamen kept them off for 
some time with muskets, although the enemy returned a constant 
and heavy fire of cannon at the shore. The British squadron at 
that time occupied Lynnhaven Bay. 

1814. " Brigadier General Parker, lately slppointed to the 
command of the army at this place," said a judicious writer of 
this period, " has resigned, in consequence, we understand, of 
the promotion over him of younger officers. This step must add 
to the good opinion already so universally entertained of General 
Parker ; for what officer, who could claim distinction in his pro- 
fession, would continue to serve under circumstances so degrading 
and palpably unjust ? General Parker, as an old, experienced, 
and meritorious officer, of courage and talents highly approved, 
wanted not the splendour of an accidental achievement to light 
him on to promotion ; and if favouritism has conferred that on 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 141 

another which belongs exclusively to him, he had no honourable 
alternative but to resign. There is no one, we believe, who is 
any way interested in the safety of this place, but must regret 
the circumstance of General Parker's resignation, though every 
candid and honourable mind must accord in the sentiment, that 
he could not do otherwise, consistently with the dictates of ho- 
nour. Until a new appointment takes place, the command will 
devolve upon Lientenant-Colonel Freeman." 

March 9th. The following melancholy accident occurred on 
board the Constellation : Midshipman Hall, being in the mizzen- 
top for the purpose of seeing the top-gallant yards sent down, 
accidentally fell from thence upon the deck (a distance of a hun- 
dred feet), and alighting on his head, was instantly killed. 



CHAPTER XVII. 
1814—1815. 

Market-house, &c., Destroyed by Fire — Carelessness — Inefficiency of Means in 
Extinguishing Fires — Want of System, Energy, and Engines — Prices Current 
— Dr. Slaughter's AVill — Legacies — Colonel Nivison — Philip R. Thomson, Esq. 
— His Honourable and Generous Conduct — The Slaughter Fund — American 
Beacon — Its Founders and Editors — Destruction of the Office by Fire — Con- 
test for the Re-issue, &c. 

March 25. A fire broke out in the market-house, which, with 
fourteen tenements on the square, was consumed. The fire was 
communicated by accident, in an apartment in the market-house 
occupied by the watchmen of the town. 

The means of extinguishing fires at that time certainly exhibit 
a very striking contrast to the large and efiicient companies, 
splendid engines, and orderly arrangements, of our fire depart- 
ment, for stopping the progress of the devouring element at the 



142 HISTORICAL AND 

present day. The following account of the fire appeared at the 
time : — 

" It seems almost incredible that a fire should break out in 
a market-house. Such an event we believe never occurred 
before ; and, in the present instance, can alone be ascribed to 
the unhappy circumstance of having an apartment in it for the 
accommodation of the watchmen, through whose cruel neglect 
the dreadful calamity has been brought upon our town.* It 
appears that some of the watchmen, previous to retiring from 
the watch-room, took the ashes out of the stove, and deposited 
them in a barrel ; and, some live embers being among the ashes, 
they set fire to the barrel, which communicated to the casings 
of the room. How" many accidents of this kind have been pro- 
duced by this dangerous practice ! and still we see there is no- 
thing more common. 

;;< * :1-- * * * * 

" It has often been our painful duty to notice the want of 
means and method at all the fires that happen in our town ; but, 
on this occasion, there appeared to be an uncommon degree of 
apathy in the crowd, wdio had assembled rather, it would seem, 
to gaze at the sight than to render service. But if every one 
present had shown the best disposition to exert himself, his good 
intentions Avould have been unavailing, for the want of means as 
well as system and regularity. There was no one to direct, and 
no one to command. The fire-wardens were not recognised, in 
the general bustle, as possessing any authority, and if they gave 
orders or directions, they were utterly disregarded. There was 
one small engine, out of order, and that was private property ; 
about a dozen buckets, and not a single axe or fire hook. Such, 
in spite of all remonstrance, continues to be the state of things 
whenever we have a fire ; and Avill still continue, we suppose, 
until the town is fairly burnt down piecemeal." 

The Norfolk Bible Society was organized this year. 

October 28. "Prices, Norfolk Market. — Pork, $10 per 
cwt. ; beef, $10 per cwt. ; mutton, 12|- cents per pound ; veal, 
12| cents per pound ; butter, 62-^- cents per pound ; salt (home- 
made), $4 50 per bushel." 

* The present watch-house is in the south end of the market-house. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 143 

November 23. This is the date of the will of Dr. Auo-ustine 
Slaughter, -who died shortly thereafter. He "was a citizen of 
Norfolk, and a physician of distinction. There arc facts con- 
nected Avith the bequest of property in this instance, with regard 
to the testator, the legacies, and some of the heirs, that are well 
worthy of a record upon these pages. Dr. S., after having pro- 
vided for the emancipation and support of his slaves, and making 
other provisions in his will, appropriated the interest of $3,000 
as a perpetual fund for the education of several poor boys in 
reading, writing, navigation, &c. ; said boys to be properly 
equipped, and bound to the commander of a vessel of war, or 
some discreet master of a merchant vessel ; and their places at 
school, as soon as vacant, to be filled by others from time to 
time. This the Doctor intended as his " mite towards fostering 
our infant navy." The fund was faithfully applied according to 
his will and desire. 

Among several other bequests, he bequeathed to Colonel John 
Nivison $1,000, as a " small mark of his gratitude for a service 
he did him, when he was first struck with the palsy, although 
his ample fortune luckily placed him far above regarding such 
trifles." 

Philip Roots Thomson, Esq., of Culpeper County, was one 
of the heirs ; and to whom he also gave a considerable sum. A 
few years ago, this gentleman, being in our city, called at the 
ofiice of an eminent legal gentleman ; and, alluding to the parti- 
culars of Dr. Slaughter's will, inquired if there was not a tech- 
nical defect, which entirely annulled the bequest for the educa- 
tion of the poor boys, and which gave Mm a legal title to the 
sum of $3,000, set aside for that purpose. He was answered in 
the affirmative ; and the lawyer, of course, supposed that his ob- 
ject was to secure the money, and thus, sadly and eftectually, to 
frustrate the laudable and benevolent design of his deceased re- 
lative. But, instead of this, the attorney was soon surprised to 
find that such was not his intention, and he had the pleasure of 
witnessing an instance of generosity, which, though no more 
than right, is rarely to be met with. He was requested to draw 
up an instrument, confirming and establishing the devise beyond 
cavil ; thus securing from future diflSculty, the execution of the 



144 HISTORICAL AND 

original and benevolent design of the legator, as evinced in his 
last will and testament. The instrument of writing was, of 
course, prepared promptly and faithfully, and duly signed, 
sealed, delivered, and recorded. 

But this is not all of that gratifying specimen of strict inte- 
grity and honourable regard for the desires of the dead, as well 
as the rights of the living. He asked his counsel to state the 
amount of his fee, and was told in reply that, under such cir- 
cumstances, there was no charge, and more especially as only 
a few lines were required to accomplish the object desired ; 
whereupon his client threw down several pieces of gold upon his 
table, which, notwithstanding the repeated refusals of the lawyer 
to receive it, he would not take back. Having thus consummated 
his business, he left the ofBce. 

Now, this is a case of true and genuine honesty and whole- 
souled liberality, which it is really refreshing to contemplate in 
these days of covetousness, when the great and never-ceasing 
struggle is for mammon, and "the selfishness of the purse" is 
one of the prevailing sins of the age. There is no incident which 
we have felt more pleasure in placing upon these pages ; and we 
have chosen to write Mr. Thomson's name in full, that it may be 
fairly and fully exhibited in connexion with his praiseworthy act, 
in these local chronicles of the events of the past and the pre- 
sent, as an example worthy of imitation, and which will reflect 
honour upon him ; although, as to the confirmation of the legacy, 
it was no more than he should have done under the circum- 
stances. But, how many there are whose inordinate love of 
money, and utter disregard for anything more than strict legal 
right, would have induced them to grasp with unholy eagerness 
and haste, as a precious treasure, the generous man's dying gift, 
and the poor boys' fund ! 

The " Slaughter Fund," as it is called, is still regularly and 
judiciously applied, according to the will of the generous indivi- 
dual whose name it appropriately bears. There are now among 
the students of the Norfolk Academy ten boys, who are receiving 
a gratuitous education ; and this fund constitutes a large por- 
tion of the sum required to entitle them to so inestimable a privi- 
lege ; and which is rendered more valuable by the fact that we 



DESCllIPTIVE SKETCHES. 145 

have yet no free schools of a high grade. Let the fund be in- 
creased by the bounty of others, who have " enough, and to 
spare." 

April Tth, 1815. At this date, the American Beacon com- 
menced its useful career, under the auspices of Captain Hamilton 
Shields and Samuel Shepherd, Esq. At the expiration of about 
twelve months, Mr. Shepherd retired, and William C. Shields, 
Esq., formerly editor of the Daily Courier, and Mr. Charlton, 
were associated with the accomplished gentleman first named. 
In 1834, H. B. Grigsby, Esq., purchased the entire interest, and 
after occupying the editorial chair with decided ability and suc- 
cess for several years, he disposed of the paper to Messrs. Wm. 
E. Cunningham,* H. B. Bagnal, and T. F. Boothby. In No- 
vember, 1847, the office and materials were destroyed by fire ; 
whereupon, the partnership was dissolved, and the two junior 
members of the firm, Messrs. Boothby and Bagnal, determined 
to re-issue the paper with the least possible delay. Having en- 
gaged a gentleman well known as a talented writer to fill the 
editorial chair, Mr. Boothby proceeded to Baltimore, where he 
intended to have the first and several succeeding numbers printed, 
and sent down daily by the steamer, whence they were to be 
taken by carriers and delivered to subscribers. But the senior 
editor of the old firm (Mr. C.) was also anxious to resume the 
publication of the Beacon ; and soon hearing of the intention and 
diligent efforts of the other party, he was exceedingly desirous 
that his paper should have the benefit of the first appearance ; 
which object he accomplished by availing himself of the facilities 
afforded by the Advocatef Office, which were offered by the 
editor of that paper. The Beacon, printed in Norfolk, made its 
appearance again, one day in advance of the paper of the same 
name, issued in Norfolk, but printed, as before stated, in another 
city, to insure the earliest dehut. Mr. Cunningham having 
gained the advantage intimated above, his paper was soon re- 
established, and as extensively circulated and patronised as ever ; 
while the other party relinquished their undertaking, and dis- 
posed of their interest to Mr. C, who shortly after associated 

* Formerly member of the Legislature from Norfolk Borough, 
t Published weekly in 1847-8. See another page. 
10 



146 HISTORICAL AND 

with himself Richard Gatewood, Jun., Esq. On February 9th, 
1852, the Weekly Beacon was issued from the same office. The 
Beacon was neutral in politics till November, 1851, when Mr. 
C. announced himself as sole editor, and stated that Whig men 
and measures would thereafter be supported. This paper is de- 
servedly popular, especially on account of the variety of political, 
commercial, naval, military, local, and general, information which 
it usually contains. 



CHAPTER XVIIL 

1816—1819. 

Female Orphan Asylum — Its Founder and Conductors — Its Utility — Buildings 
— Male Orphan Asylum Wanted — Manual Labour School — Neglected Child- 
hood — First Sabbath School in Norfolk — ■Union School — Separation — The 
Sabbath School Cause — Miss M. Tucker — Council — Marine Society — Ward 
and General Ticket System Compared — Improvements — Stone Bridge — 
Tobacco Warehouse — Mayor Holt— Lancasterian School— Tobacco Inspec- 
tion — Norfolk Provident Society — Its Object, Utility, &c. — Act of Assembly — 
Custom House Lot — The Trip to Baltimore — The Bay Line — Steamer North 
Carolina — Wonder Booker — Longevity. 

January 16th, 1816. Act of Assembly passed, incorporating 
the Female Orphan Asylum. 

This association was first known, it seems, as the "Female 
Charitable Society," and its most commendable object was, "the 
support and education of orphan girls." It appears that as 
early as 1807 there was " an Orphan House for female children, 
on Amelia Street." But we have learned from a reliable source, 
that the first regular meeting of the present association, was 
held in a framed building that formerly stood at the northwest 
corner of Granby and Freemason Streets, and which was owned 
and occupied, for many years, by the late Francis Butt, Sr. 

The society was formed and organized at the instance of the 
venerable and excellent Bishop Asbury, who may, therefore, be 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 147 

justly considered as its founder. It has long been conducted, and 
very properly too, by ladies connected with the several Protestant 
churches, and whose constant and attentive eflForts have been 
instrumental in dispensing many a blessing to the homeless and 
friendless female orphan. " There is one want," says a certain 
author," that none can supply — there is one chord in the heart that 
answers only to the touch of one hand — there is one magic spell 
that hangs around the heart in all after life, that none, perhaps, 
can know and understand, whose lips have been unused to say, 
motJier. One of the noblest charities of the human heart is that 
which provides an asylum for the little ones bereaved." May 
the smiles of Heaven ever rest upon an institution so necessary, 
in every large town especially, and whose merciful and beneficial 
tendency and influence are so strikingly manifest ! 

The contributions to the society enabled the managers to build 
a handsome house on Holt Street ; which, however, on account of 
its insecure foundation, gave place, in 1847, to a more suitable 
and substantial building ; and the establishment is still in a 
prosperous condition. 

The propriety of establishing in Norfolk a house for male 
orphans has been frequently urged ; and it is sincerely hoped 
that some enterprising and benevolent individuals will, ere long, 
take the matter in hand, and give the citizens an opportunity of 
contributing to the support of such an institution. The indigent 
orphan hoys certainly have a strong claim upon the people ; and 
the good that might be accomplished, and the evil prevented by 
the establishment and proper management of an asylum of this 
kind, would amply repay all the labour, trouble, and expense, 
that might be incurred in placing it upon a firm basis, giving it 
a fair start, and continuing it in its career of usefulness. 

These remarks are not made without some knowledge of the 
number and condition of those who would be the legitimate bene- 
ficiaries of such an asylum. 

" Some such institution," says a judicious writer, " as a 
manual labour school for indigent boys — to support, educate, and 
prepare them for a trade, and make them useful members of 
society — is sadly needed in our community, and presents strong 
claims to the attention and action of our philanthropic citizens. 



148 HISTORICAL AND 

The ' Female Orphan Asylum,' under the auspices of the ladies, 
has been eminently successful, and the means of rescuing hun- 
dreds from starvation, misery, and wretchedness. Let a small 
farm be obtained in the vicinity of the city, and in a short time 
it would be supported and maintained from the labour of the 
inmates of the establishment. A number of subjects are daily 
runnino- wild through our streets, exempt from all control or 
protection, engaging in every kind of misbhief and vice, and 
treading that path which must inevitably lead them to crime and 
infamy. Humanity, as well as a wise policy, demand that they 
should be removed from their abodes of wretchedness, and placed 
in a situation where they might be fitted for a career of useful- 
ness and honour. Feed, clothe, and educate them — teach them 
some useful trade, and instil into their minds the excellence of 
truth and the beauty of holiness. He, who by his labour causes 
a blade of grass to grow where it has never grown before, is 
looked upon as a benefactor of his race ; how much more then, 
should that man be appreciated, who, by deeds of charity, saves 
an intelligent soul from misery in this life, and perdition in that 
which is to come." 

"There is not a plea on earth," says an observant Christian 
writer, " so piteous and touching as that cry of neglected child- 
};iood— saying, ' Take care of us — watch over us — keep and guard 
us from the evils that we know not of, but that tfe know — save 
us from the dark and sorrowful years — teach us betimes what is 
good — teach us obedience, teach us truth and wisdom, lead us 
in the way in which we should go.' Oh ! the hopes of coming 
years — shall they all be crushed down in the mire of city vice 
and vileness ? While all other youth is bright and fair, shall 
this, the youth of man alone — be marred and ruined ? This poor, 
crushed childhood — shall it experience a lifetime of misery, ere 
it blossoms into life ?" 

" The young lambs are sporting on tlie meadows, 
The young bii'ds are chirping in the nest ; 
The young fawns are playing with the shadows, 
The young flowers are blowing towards the west. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 149 

" But the young, yoinvj childrm, my brothers ! 
They are weeping bitterly ; 
They are vreeping in the playtime of the others, 
In the country of the free." 

The first Sabbath School in this place was formed in the spring 
of this year, by the laudable exertions of a few ladies, belonging 
to the several Protestant Churches* (the Episcopalian, Presby- 
terian, Baptist, and Methodist). During the year, three schools 
were organized, and the union thus agreed to " did not interfere 
with the regulations or direction of any school connected with it, 
but was only intended to concentrate the efforts of the friends of 
the good Avork, and to provide means to enable them to carry 
the design into fuller effect." 

The report of the Union Schools, in giving an account of their 
condition, says : 

"Two of our teachers have professed religion since they 
joined, and eight of the scholars. We feel assured that the in- 
fluence of the schools has been of incalculable advantage both to 
the children and their parents. Many have been led to the 
house of God, who have never been there before. We have seen 
the good effects of our instructions, particularly in the life and 
death of one pupil. In her last moments, she blessed the Sab- 
bath School as the means of bringing her to a knowledge of sal- 
vation, and felt that she could 'read her title clear' to glory." 

It was not long after this period that the "Union" was dis- 
solved by mutual consent, and the different denominations esta- 
blished and conducted separate schools, under the management of 
officers and teachers connected with their respective churches. 
The cause continued to prosper under the fostering care of those 
upon whom the management devolved, and it now presents an 
interesting field of labour for the Christian philanthropist. 
Hundreds and thousands of the rising race and hope of the coun- 

* " It is stated in An Historical Sketch of Sunday Schools in the United 
States, published by the American Sunday School Union, that 'The first per- 
manent Sunday School organization of which we have any authentic record, 
was The First Day or Sunday School Society. It was established in Philadel- 
phia, January 11, 1791.' A Sabbath School was taught in the house of 
Thomas Crenshaw, of Hanover County, Va., in the year 1786; and, in the fol- 
lowing year, the Rev. John Charleston was converted in that school." 



150 HISTORICAL AND 

try, are weekly gatliered together, for the noble purpose of re- 
ceiving instruction in- those sacred truths, which alone tend to 
true greatness in this Avorld, and a blessed immortality in the 
regions of bliss above. No pen can portray, no mind conceive, 
the benefits resulting to the human race from the benign influ- 
ence of Sunday Schools. 

The Sabbath School cause in this city, in its incipiency, gra- 
dual progress, and ultimate usefulness, may be justly considered 
as being indebted, in a great measure, to the diligent, prayerful, 
and well-directed efforts of Miss Margaret Tucker, a lady of 
much intelligence, and of devoted piety, who, with other excel- 
lent Christian ladies of Norfolk, in days that have passed, " went 
about doing good." Indeed, her zealous and self-sacrificing de- 
votion, sound judgment, and generosity, were manifested in her 
exertions to advance the interests of several other benevolent 
enterprises ; among Avhich we may mention, the Dorcas Society, 
and the Female Orphan Society. She was emphatically a friend 
to the widoAV and the orphan, the poor and the needy, the suf- 
fering and the sorrowful ; was highly gifted in prayer and ex- 
hortation ; possessed very considerable knowledge of human 
nature, and was respected and beloved for her consistent piety 
and usefulness by all classes of the community. Her works of 
love are done ; her useful career is ended. She has entered the 
rest above, and enjoys the reward of the faithful.''' 

On the 27th of January, 181G, an act was passed changing 
the mode of electing the Council, and adding one to the number. 
On the 24th of June of every year " seventeen fit and able men, 
being freeholders," were, under this act, to be elected by ballot 
or general ticket. From this it would seem that the change con- 
sisted in the election by general ticket, as that mode is here for 
the first time prescribed. 

February 7th, 1817. Act of Assembly passed, incorporating 
the Norfolk Marine Society. 

About this time some alterations were made in the government 
of the town, and a very commendable spirit of improvement ap- 

* "And I lieai'J a voice from Heaven, saying unto me, Write, Blessed are the 
dead which die in the Lord from henceforth : Yea, saith the Spirit, that they 
may rest from their labours ; and their works do follow them." — Rev. xiv. 13. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 151 

pearcd to be abroad in the community. The following extract 
from one of the city papers, of a recent date, will prove interest- 
ing to the reader : 

"Until the year 1817, the 'Borough' was divided into eight 
wards, each electing within its own bounds two Common Council- 
men. But about that time it was believed by everybody that it 
would be a decided improvement to adopt the general ticket 
system. Experience has shown that some of the wards must 
often send members to the Council who had no weight or influ- 
ence, or go unrepresented, — and finally that important branch 
of the Corporation had begun to be looked upon as little better 
than the fifth wheel of a coach. It had but little power then, 
and that little seems to have been exerted very sparingly for the 
improvement of the town. After the peace of 1815, the citizens 
began to feel a lively interest in the subject of improvemerft, and 
the first step towards action was to change the ward for the 
general ticket system in the election of Common Councilmen. 
The first Council, under this new state of things, was remarkable 
for the number of men of talents and influence who composed it ; 
and they soon commenced the work of improvement by ordering 
the construction of a stone bridge in Granby Street ; the erection 
of a tobacco w\arehouse on Town Point ; the purchase of a lot 
(S7,000) adjoining the Court House lot, on which to erect a 
depot for the produce of the Roanoke, at a future day ; the dig- 
ging of a mammoth well in the centre of Main Street, and fixing 
a pair of pumps in it, &c. And besides all this, they eff"ected 
some salutary changes in the general police of the borough. In- 
deed, to this day the city is indebted to the first Councils elected 
under the general ticket system, assisted by that intelligent and 
indefatigable ofiicer, Mayor Holt, for most of the ordinances by 
which it is now governed." 

In 1852, the ward system was again adopted; the city having 
been divided into only four wards. 

January 22, 1818. Act of Assembly passed, incorporating the 
Trustees of the Lancasterian School. 

January 31st. An act for establishing inspection and storage 
of tobacco in Norfolk was passed this day. 

May 15th. Ordinance passed in Council authorizing a loan 



152 HISTORICAL AND 

for the erection of a stone bridge over Back Creek, at Granby 
Street. 

1819. Norfolk Provident Society organized. This Associa- 
tion was incorporated by Act of Assembly, passed January 27, 
1820. It has proved to be one of the most useful institutions 
ever established in the town. After a trial of more than thirty 
years, during which time its beneficial tendency has been felt in 
very many instances by the widow and the orphan, it is believed 
to be in a safe and prosperous condition. 

The following brief history of the association, furnished by one 
of its oldest members, will no doubt be interesting to all who are 
anxious to make a j)ost obit provision for their families, beyond 
the reach of the ordinary vicissitudes of life : 

" In the year 1819, the idea of a society for the purpose of 
providing a fund for the benefit of the families of the deceased 
members thereof, was suggested by an individual, on a plan pro- 
posed by him. On this suggestion a subscription paper was cir- 
culated, which was subscribed to by twenty-two members, who 
met together in the month of April of that year, formed a Con- 
stitution and By-laws for its future government, and obtained a 
Charter from the Legislature. 

"By the terms of their Constitution each member is required 
to pay $10 at the time of subscribi?ag, under prescribed rules, 
and to contribute monthly thereafter the sum of 07ic dollar at 
regular stated meetings; for which payments their families onl// 
should be entitled to receive at their death, after one year's 
membership, and within three years of their admission, twice the 
amount of their regular payments ; and at any time a member 
might die after three years' membership, three times the amount 
so paid in. If the death of a member should occur within the 
term of one year, the amount paid by him to be forfeited to the 
Society ; but under no circumstances can any member withdraw 
his contributions, and on a failure of twelve months payment, he 
ceases to be a member, and all his previous payments are for- 
feited to the Society. 

" It will thus be seen that twenty-two individuals associated 
and established this society, with a capital of $220 in the month 
of April, 1819, — now nearly thirty-four years, and it appears by 



DERCIIIPTIVE SKETCHES. 153 

the records that in this time it has contributed to the relief of 
the families of seventy-five of its deceased members the sum of 
$31,168 75, and by an accumulation of its members, with semi- 
annual interest on its investments, it now has a fund of $30,300 
invested in G per cent. State and City Stocks, together with a 
balance exceeding $300 to its credit in bank. 

" The benefits of such an association must be obvious in a 
community where the relief it has afforded to many distressed 
families, in time of their utmost need, is notorious, and this, too, 
so far differing from ordinary societies for such purposes, as to 
authorize a legal demand, in lieu of a dependence for a charitable 
donation." 

The following is a summary of the principal Acts of Assembly 
relating to Norfolk in its early history, and prior to this period : 

1680. Act concerning settlements, &c. 

1T05. Titles to lands, establishment of the town, &c. 

1736. Charter and its confirmation. 

1752. Charter explained, and privileges enlarged. 

1757. Power enlarged, ferries, &c. 

1762. Privileges, and limits. 

1763. Taxes, watch, and lamps. 

1764. Vestry, ministers, &c., E. River Parish. 
1766. Trustees, limits, &c. 

1769. Confirmation of "An agreement made by Thomas Tal- 
butt." 

1772. Taxes. 

1783. Powers enlarged, 

1787. Charter amended. 

1788. Rights, courts, &c. 

1789. Seat of Justice removed. 

1790. Privileges. 
1796. Lotteries. 

1798. Provision for the poor. 

1801. Docks and wharves. 

1802. Charter amended. 

1802. Donation of Mr. Godfrey to the poor of Norfolk County. 

1803. Charter. 

1804. Extension of Church Street. 



154- HISTORICAL AND 

1804. Norfolk Academy. 

1806. Militia. 

1806. Flood-gates across Back Creek. 

1806. Surveyor. 

1806. Hustings Court. 

1807. Paving of streets. 

1807. iSTortliern boundary. 

1808. Hustings Court. 

1809. Jurisdiction of County and Corporation Courts. 

1810. Ferry to Hampton. 

1811. Lamps. 
1811. Port Wardens. 

1811. Mechanics' Benevolent Society. 

1811. Concord Street. 

1812. Pilots. 

1812. Extension of Bermuda Street. 

1813. Removal of obstructions in Bute Street. 
1816. Suppression of Small-pox. 

1816. Incorporation of Library Company. 

1816. Female Orphan Society. 

1816. Salary to Mayor. 

1816. Election of Councilmen. 

1816. Extension of Granby Street. 

1816. Commissioner of Revenue. 

1817. Extension of Catharine Street. 
1817. Norfolk Marine Society. 

February 1, 181'J. Act of Assembly passed, authorizing the 
Governor to cede to the United States the jurisdiction over a cer- 
tain lot of land, in the borough of Norfolk, for the purpose of build- 
ing a custom-house thereon. The act required a custom-house to 
be erected on this lot, within the space of five years after the ses- 
sion at Avhich the act was passed; and that "if, at any time 
thereafter, the said custom-house and public stores shall be suf- 
fered to fall into decay, or be rendered useless as to the purposes 
aforesaid, and so continued for the space of five years, then, and 
in those cases, the jurisdiction over such territory shall revert to 
the Commonwealth."* 

* At a very early period in the commercial history of this section, applica- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 155 

At this period, the trip by steamboat, from tins place to Bal- 
timore, Avas performed in about tAverity-four hours ; and this was 
considered a very short time for so long a distance. The 
steamers that run hence to New York by sea, require less than 
this length of time to perform the trip ; and one of the boats on 
the Bay Line, now runs the distance, from this city to Balti- 
more, in a little over eleven hours. 

We may remark here, that this line is so well and ably con- 
ducted, that accidents seldom or never happen. The boats are 
very superior, kept in the finest order, and are in charge of offi- 
cers of long experience, and well-tried skill and judgment. The 
North Carolina, a very large and splendid new boat, has recently 
been placed upon this line ; and, under the able management of 
Captain Bussell, presents unusual attractions to the traveller, 
who desires to go north by the pleasant and delightful bay 
route. 

Died, this year, in Princess Anne County, Wonder Booker, a 
coloured man, aged 126 years. He was remarkable for the 
strength of his physical constitution, and worked in his master's 
garden at the age of nearly 120 years. When he was born, his 
mother was nearly threescore ! It is stated, as an undeniable 
fact, that she had arrived at the good old age of 58 years, when 
she gave birth to a son who was so remarkable for his longevity 
and vigour of body. She gave him a very appropriate name ; 
and we have thought fit to hook the wonder. 

The writer has also been informed of other extraordinary cases 
of longevity in Princess Anne. The age of one old lady, at her 
death, was just 99 years, 11 months, and 30 days, requiring 
only one day to complete her hundredth year. She left a female 
servant, who is said to have attained the age of 120 years. 

tion was made for a custom-house by both Norfolk and Portsmouth, as consi- 
derable business was done on both sides of the river. Norfolk was finally 
selected as the location. The custom-house was long situated on Town Point, 
prior to the erection of the present building on Wide Water Street. 



15G HISTORICAL AND 

CHAPTER XIX. 

1820—1821. 

Navigation Act— Trade of the West Indies— Commercial Distress — United 
States Bank— Colonization Society— Brutal Murder of Lagaudette— Startling 
Discovery— Arrest, Trial, Conviction, and Execution of the Murderers — 
Exciting Scene at the Gallows— Bungling AVoVk— The Murderers and their 

Victim Thieves— Highway Robbery— Awful Thunder Storm — A Gloomy 

Year— Sickness — Terrific Hurricane— The Great September Gale— High 
Tide— Effects of the Storm— Booth— Day of Humiliation and Prayer— Public 
Meeting— Navigation Law— Trade of the West Indies Declining. 

May 15, 1820. On this day the Navigation Laio was passed ; 
which restricted vessels from bringing the produce of the British 
colonies to our ports ; and from taking in return that of the 
States. The eifects of this law were of course injurious to the 
commerce of Norfolk. Notwithstanding which, the exportations 
to the West Indies alone, amounted to $118,000, and the importa- 
tions in sugar, molasses, fruit, rum, &c., were considerable ; but 
.. ! the succeeding year the amount was much less. Norfolk was 
' about the only port at that time on our coast, at which assorted 
carfToes of produce could be conveniently obtained. Tobacco, 
grain, flour, meal, lard, fish, and many other articles, required 
by the West Indies trade, were furnished here at fair prices. 

For many years previous to this, Norfolk showed manifest 
signs of advancement in appearance and in commerce ; but a 
sad reverse in the commercial affairs of the place occurred about 
this time. Some of the principal merchants were compelled to 
suspend payment, others failed for large amounts, while some of 
the small traders were reduced to poverty. There was very 
considerable interruption to the West Indies trade, and the gene- 
ral business of the place suffered greatly. One cause of the 
embarrassment and pressure was the liberal accommodations that 
had been aflbrded by the branch of the United States bank, 
/ which had been established here ; very large sums were borrowed, 
and a heavy business was done. But suddenly and unexpectedly, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 157 

a reaction was experienced, and the consequences were ruinous, 
especially to the mercantile portion of the community. 

December 26. Colonization Society of Norfolk organized. 

March 20, 1821. On this day there was perpetrated in the 
borough, one of the most inhuman and diabolical murders ever 
placed upon the dark catalogue of crime. A small and unsightly 

frame building,* on street, was occupied by three men, two 

of whom were Spaniards, named Castilano and Garcia, and the 
other, a Frenchman, whose name was Peter Lagaudette. Their 
appearance was rather strange, and calculated to excite suspicion ; 
although it seems they had attracted no special notice prior to 
this occasion. 

It was said, that a lass who was passing the house on her way 
to school, hearing loud screams, succeeded in getting a view of 
the interior through a back window, just in time to witness the 
bloody affair; and her statement was in substance, that one of the 
Spaniards, with the violence and desperation of a fiend incarnate, 
was levelling poAverful and deadly blows at the Frenchman, who 
imploringly begged for mercy, and tried in vain to escape from 
the murderous hand of the bloodthirsty Spaniard ; that he ran 
up the stairs, shrieking for help, but the 

" Staunch murderer, steady to liis purpose, 
Pursued him close." 

And that both coming quickly down again, the wretch dealt his 
victim another dreadful deathblow with an axe, and accomplished 
his fiendish purpose ! Be this as it may, before the house was 
entered, Castilano and Garcia had both made their escape, and 
fled beyond the limits of the town. With extraordinary haste 
and precision, the body of the murdered man was dissected at 
the neck, shoulders, and knees, and, excepting the head, depo- 
sited in a trunk and secreted in the house. The head was not 
found, and is supposed to have been burned ; which supposition 
was strengthened by a most unpleasant smell about the time at 
which the murder was committed. They intended, it was said, 
to preserve the mutilated remains by salting them, and then re- 

* The house is still standing (1853). 



158 HISTOEICAL AND 

move them. The excitement and indignation of the citizens on 
account of the shocking disclosures were very great. 

Proper efforts were made as early as possible to apprehend 
and bring to justice the murderers ; and they Avere arrested at 
Lambert's Point, about five miles from the city, on the second 
day after the discovery of the remains, and imprisoned in the 
county jail at Portsmouth. After an examination, they were 
duly remanded for trial, at which they were found guilty of ' 
"murder in the first degree." They were sentenced by Judge 
Parker to be hung, and were executed on Friday June 1st. 

Castilano, the elder of the two, who was a physician, and who 
doubtless had 

*' O'er the subject hung, 
And impolitely hewed his 'way through bones 
Aud muscles of the sacred human form ; 
Exposing barbarously to wanton gaze 
The mysteries of nature," 

was sullen and indifferent on the dreadful occasion, and appeared 
quite undaunted to the last. But Garcia, who was quite a young 
man, energetically protested against the proceedings, and ear- 
nestly declared that he was innocent of the crime for which he 
was to suffer. 

An immense concourse of people from Norfolk, Portsmouth, 
and the neighbouring counties, witnessed the executions ; and 
the scene at the gallows was painful and exciting in a high de- 
gree. Captain Emmerson, the sheriff, one of the noble heroes 
of Craney Island, and who quailed not at the approach of a 
powerful, hostile army, is said to have manifested considerable 
mental agitation, and the executioner was greatly alarmed. 
Garcia was first executed ; and when the hangman was placing 
the fatal rope about his neck, Castilano told him that he was 
doing it improperly, and instructed him how to place the noose. 
His directions were, however, not followed by the affrighted 
novice of an executioner, and the culprit was slowly choked to 
death ! Castilano, who witnessed, with the crowd, this bungling 
work, and participated in the general feeling of dissatisfaction 
that was manifested, requested the privilege of adjusting the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 159 

rope about his own neck, -wliich Avas readily granted ; and when 
the platform fell, his death was sudden, — a few convulsive strug- 
gles only, and his spirit, too, departed from earth to a solemn 
tribunal above. 

Lagaudettc is said to have been a very handsome man, of 
agreeable, fascinating manners. Castilano, as before stated, 
was a physician, and, indeed, an experienced surgeon ; for the 
body of the victim was most skilfully dissected. He was a 
larger, as well as an older man than Garcia, his companion in 
crime and infamy. 

It appears that they were a trio of desperadoes, thieves, and 
highway robbers ; perhaps a portion of a gang who perpetrated 
other dark deeds in those days. But a short time previously to 
the murder, the passengers in a stage-coach had been robbed in 
the vicinity, the lives of the travellers having been saved by the 
presence of mind and good management of a lady ; and these 
men, it was supposed, committed the act. They had quarrelled 
over their booty, on the Sunday preceding the murder ; and it 
appears that the two Spaniards concluded to settle the difficulty 
by killing the Frenchman, and taking each a half, instead of a 
third, of their ill-gotten spoils. 

At the time the discovery was made, large quantities of 
jewelry, plate, &c., were found concealed in the house, a portion 
of which was recognised as the property of individuals from whom 
it had been stolen. 

On the 27th of June, an extraordinary and awful thunder- 
storm was witnessed by the citizens of Norfolk and vicinity. The 
flashes of lightning were almost incessant for nearly an hour ; 
several houses were struck ; the thunder was exceedingly loud ; 
the wind high, and the rain fell almost in torrents. 

1821 was a gloomy year. Business was dull ; the West India 
trade declining, and funds growing scarce. There was conside- 
rable malignant sickness in one part of the town, during the 
month of August (in consequence, as there was good reason to 
believe, of the arrival of a vessel at Woodside's Wharf, from a 
foreign and infected port), and on September 3d, occurred a 
most destructive and terrific hurricane. 

The great September gale of 1821 is well recollected by many 



160 HISTORICAL AXD 

now living. The wind blew with fearful violence ; and the storm 
of that year has scarcely ever had its equal, in the recollection 
of " the oldest inhabitant." Many houses in Norfolk and Ports- 
mouth were damaged. Some unroofed, and others entirely de- 
molished. Chimneys, trees, and fences were blown down, and 
several lives were lost. The power of the storm is said to have 
been truly frightful and astonishing — 

" The winds 
Held oft a momentary pause, 
As spent with their own fury ; but they came 
Again with added power — with shriek and cry, 
Almost unearthly ; as if on their wings 
Passed by the spirit of the storm." 

The tide rose to a great height ; the Norfolk Drawbridge was 
swept away, and the damage to the shipping was immense. 

In the summer of this year. Booth, the celebrated tragedian, 
who had but a short time before, left London, arrived in Norfolk 
from the island of Madeira. From this place he went to Rich- 
mond, and astonished the citizens by his wonderful genius. His 
appearance, on his arrival there, is said to have been somewhat 
singular. He was nearly twenty-five, but looked seven years 
younger, and " wore an old straw hat, and a linen roundabout ; 
and, without the least shadow of pretension, he sauntered along, 
gazing at everything he saw." He died in the fall of 1852. 

Thursday, September 15, was set apart in the borough as a 
day of humiliation and prayer. 

The commerce of the place and the general interests of the 
community, suffered so greatly from the effects of the Naviga- 
tion Law, that a public meeting was held on the 21st of Decem- 
ber, for the purpose of adopting suitable measures to have it 
repealed as soon as possible. 

The exportations to the West Indies for this year amounted 
to only $94,384, being $23,616 less than the preceding year. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 161 

CHAPTER XX. 
1821—1824. 

Team Ferry Boat — Steamboats — Reduction of Ferriage — Privileges — Acts of 
Assembly — Receipts — Competition Needed— Improper Restrictions — Draw- 
bridge — Strange and Alarming Light — Painful Event — Loss of Life — Death 
of Rev. E. IM. Lowe — Arrival via Dismal Swamp Canal — Lamented Deaths — 
City Inspector. 

Jan. 19, 1822. A slowly moving teamboat, wliich had been 
built to convey passengers across the river, was tried, and found 
to answer the purpose. The poor blind horses that were used, 
were transferred, after some eight or ten years, to a more appro- 
priate position on the mud-machine, and steam ferry-boats were 
introduced, which, after paying all expenses, yield a very con- 
siderable revenue to the county. 

It is believed that if the ferriage were reduced to two or 
three-fifths of the present sum (which is five cents), the receipts 
would be as much as they are now, and perhaps more. There 
would be more passing across the river between the two towns, 
which would have a good tendency. The citizens would thereby 
become better known to one another ; and a more social feeling 
and friendly spirit, calculated to advance the mutual interests of 
both sides, might be the pleasing result. But this remains to be 
tested by experience.* 

" All ferry privileges are intended to promote the public con- 
venience. There is no vested right conferred by the grant, and 
it is, at all times, subject to such change and modification as the 
legislature may, in its wisdom, deem expedient and proper. The 
convenience and accommodation, not of the inhabitants of a par- 
ticular district of country alone are concerned, but of a large 
portion of the travelling public. 

* After the above had been put in type, the writer learned that the court of 
Norfolk County passed an order to reduce the price of ferriage, after the first 
of January, 1853, to three cents. The court also decided, to run one of their 
boats from the railroad depot, to transport freight and passengers to Norfolk. 

11 



162 •. HISTORICAL AND 

" The first act passed on the subject was in 1748. According to 
the Act of 1757,* the ferry-keepers were required ' to give imme- 
diate passage over the said ferries to all inhabitants of the said 
county, without any fee or reward.' In November, 1766, it was 
enacted, ' that the justices of the said county of Norfolk be, and 
they are hereby empowered and required to contract and agree 
with proper persons, who will give most for the privilege of 
keeping the said ferries, and to apply the money arising there- 
from towards lessening the county levy.' There was another 
act in 1792 ; and, by the act of 30th January, 1817, the county 
court of Norfolk County was authorized to rent or lease it for a 
term of years. They generally receive $3,000 for it per annum. 
" It will be seen that it was contemplated by the act of 1757, 
to keep up the ferries by a levy upon the tithahle inhaUtants of 
Norfolk County. Now, the people of Norfolk, of Princess Anne, 
of Nansemond, and the travelling world, are taxed, one hundred 
years after its establishment, to sustain a ferry transportation, 
in order that a portion of Norfolk County, principally interested, 
may be exempted from all taxation. 

"The receipts of the present ferry have been estimated at from 
$16,000 to $20,000 per annum. The boats are run just so long 
after dark, as the superintendent of the ferry pleases, and take 
their own time in communicating between the two towns in the 
day-time. Passengers and freight are delayed, too, by the stop- 
pages at Washington Point. Competition alone can secure the 
public convenience. 

" On March 24th, 1838, a ferry privilege was granted to the 
city of Norfolk, but with restrictions. If these restrictions 
are proper, the new ferry ought not to have been authorized. 
If the city of Norfolk had an equal right to the privilege, pro- 
vided the public convenience is promoted, as all must concede it 
has, the restriction is unjust. If the county ferry has a right 
to claim from the legislature a protection against fair competi- 
tion, it has the same right to monopolize the privilege altogether. 
All such principles have been repudiated by the legislature of 
this, as well as of other States, long since. They are the avowed 
foes of all chartered companies, which do not study to promote, 

* See page 65. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES, 163 

and actually do promote, tlie public convenience and accommo- 
dation." 

July 22, 1822. The new draw-bridge was completed. 

On the night of the 16th of September, the citizens were 
greatly surprised by a strange and very luminous light, that ap- 
peared in a northwesterly direction, differing in appearance both , 
from the aurora borealis and an artificia,l light. Very serious ;' 
apprehensions, about the destruction of the world, were felt by 
the credulous. 

Exportations this year to the West Indies only $74,303 — less 
than the preceding year $20,081. 

1823. On the night of February 2d, a destructive fire took 
place on the west side of Market Square, during the progress of 
which a most distressing event occurred. Mr. B. W. Talbot, an 
estimable gentleman, a native of Baltimore County, Maryland, 
and, at that time, one of the firm of Allyn & Talbot, merchants 
of Norfolk, lodged in an upper room of one of the buildings 
destroyed. Having, as was supposed, retired to bed, every effort 
to rescue him failed of success, and he perished in the flames. 
A feeling of horror appeared to thrill every one present, and 
profound sympathy was manifested throughout the community. 
Some remains of the body were found, and carefully deposited 
in an urn ; and the most impressive funeral ceremonies were ob- 
served on the occasion. 

A Mr. Barret, from the county, was killed, and several young 
men were seriously injured, by the falling of the walls. 

February 26. Departed this life. Rev. Enoch M. Lowe, the 
beloved pastor of Christ Church, in the thirty-third year of his 
age. 

April 28. The commercial portion of the denizens were much 
gratified by the arrival, via Albemarle Sound and the Dismal 
Swamp Canal, of the schooner Rebecca Edwards, Captain Bur- 
gess, of Halifax, North Carolina, with a cargo of cotton, flour, 
tobacco, hogs, &c., &c., to Messrs. J. and P. E. Tabb, and J. and 
W. Southgate. This, it appears, was the first vessel that passed 
through the canal, with freight for Norfolk ; and so advantageous 
a means of communication with the adjoining State of North 
Carolina soon proved to be of great benefit to the town. The 



164 HISTORICAL AND 

arrival was, therefore, very appropriately hailed with joy by 
the citizens generally. 

September 7th. Departed this life. Major George W. Camp. 
On December Tth, just three months later. Colonel William 
Sharp, a near relative of the former, was also numbered with the 
dead ; and in their deaths, the community felt the loss of two of 
its most respected, intelligent, and useful members. 

June 21, 1824. An ordinance was passed by the Council, pro- 
viding for the appointment of an inspector of the corporation — 
salary to be $400 ; bond and security required in the sum of 
$1000. 



CHAPTER XXL 
1824. 

Illustrious Guest— Lafayette's Visit to the Borough— The News Circulated— 
People from the Country, &c. — Excitement — Anxiety to see the Old Hero — 
Patriotism — Suri^rise of the Simple-minded— The Reception — Entertainment 
— Illumination — Portsmouth — Bonfires — Grand Banquet — Ball in Portsmouth 
— Ball in Norfolk— Congress — The Nation's Gratitude and Joy— His Charac- 
ter — His Errand — Services in Liberty's Cause — Subsequent Visit. 

Friday, October 22d. This was a great day in the old borough ; 
one of the most memorable in its history. Lafayette, the 
venerable friend of America and of Washington — he who, during 
the darkest hours of our great struggle for freedom, had been 
the nation's friend indeed, and then its honoured and honourable 
guest in its bright and prospering career of glory — having ac- 
cepted an invitation from the authorities to visit the borough, 
accordingly arrived on the above day, and we record with great 
pleasure that his welcome was most " cordial, respectful, and 
gratifying !" 

The news of the visit soon spread from the town to the country, 
and the neighbouring towns and villages, whose population con- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 165 

vero-ed with astonishing rapidity to Norfolk, the centre of attrac- 
tion. Very many who had been to the great State Festival at 
Yorktown, followed the hero hither. Boats, in miniature fleets, 
descended every river and creek that winds its circuitous way to 
our broad estuary, and were moored fast by the great attracting 
point. Nearly every road and by-path leading to the town was 
thronged with the multitudes who were eager to look upon the man 
whom the nation loved to honour. The old, the young, the 
grave and the gay ; the learned, the ignorant, the white and the 
coloured — both sexes, each party, every sect — all who could, 
went forth to see him. The pale invalid, scarcely convalescent, 
but partaking of the general excitement, and reanimated by the 
common sentiment of patriotism that moved the hearts of thou- 
sands, arose from his couch, and tottered out to take a look ; 
and the halt and the crippled hobbled out too, to catch a glimpse 
at the long-tried and inflexible old friend of liberty, and enemy 
to tyranny and despotism. 

Some of the simple-minded, not exactly comprehending the 
cause of the wonderful excitement and stir, were somewhat sur- 
prised to see nothing more than a fine specimen of nature's 
noblemen, in the person of the venerated French warrior and 
philanthropist. But to the reception. 

Two pieces of artillery, commanded by Captain George Ott, 
were stationed, in due time, at the Ferry Wharf; and as the 
steamboat Petersburg rounded Town Point and appeared in sight, 
the roar of the great guns answered the double purpose of 
saluting, in a suitable manner, the far-famed chieftain, and of 
announcing to the citizens the near approach of their distinguished 
guest. For some time previously to the salutation, a large con- 
course of citizens had assembled on the wharf and on Market 
Square, anxiously and impatiently waiting to witness the arrival 
of the patriot. 

The two volunteer companies, viz., the Independents, Captain 
Capron, and Juniors, Captain Gibbons, and the two Portsmouth 
companies, the Rifle Corps, Captain Young, and the Grays, 
Captain Langhorne, were in readiness at the place of landing. 

Captain (late Commodore) Warrington, George Newton, and 
William Maxwell, Esqrs., composed the committee deputed to 



166 HISTORICAL AND 

receive him. Tliey embarked in an elegant barge to the boat, 
which lay in the stream, some distance from the densely crowded 
shore. Accompanied by his suite and his son, George Washing- 
ton, and amid the long, loud shouts of the enthusiastic multitude, 
and the louder thundering of the ordnance, the brave old General 
was landed. 

He was received at the wharf by the excellent Mayor of the 
borough, John E. Holt, Esq., after which, a procession Avas 
formed, composed of the authorities, the volunteer companies, 
the corporate societies, clergy, schools, and the citizens gene- 
rally. The General was assigned an appropriate position in the 
ranks, and the procession moved slowly up the Square ; while 
the huzzas of the excited throng made the welkin ring again. 

A magnificent civic arch, with a graceful curve, stretched 
across Main Street from the corner (now Newton's), and pre- 
sented a truly imposing appearance. It was tastefully hung 
with evergreens and flowers, and beautified with well-wrought 
designs, and the words "Welcome, Lafayette," stood out in 
full relief. 

The children of the different schools were neatly dressed and 
prepared for the joyful occasion ; many of them carrying baskets 
of flowers, with which they thickly strewed the pathway of the 
noble-hearted visitor, of whose generous, heroic deeds they had 
heard and read, and which they had been taught by their parents 
and teachers to hold in grateful remembrance. This is said to 
have been a "most interesting and Ilc art-touching scene," at 
which the General was much affected, and he expressed himself 
in terms of high gratification. 

An appropriate address was delivered by the Mayor, standing 
under the arch, which was responded to in a suitable style by 
the venerable chief. There was another spectacle of intense 
interest attending the visit and triumphal march of the honoured 
and victorious chieftain through the densely crowded avenues of 
our town. The doors, windows, and piazzas of the houses, were 
thronged with ladies, "Avho," says the Herald, "although not 
equalling in number those who, in similar situations, greeted 
the arrival of the nation's guest in the larger cities, might, we 
think, justly claim the palm of h&auty" 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 167 

They waved their handkerchiefs, and the benignant smiles 
from thousands of blooming faces, appeared to thrill again the 
old hero's heart with emotions of delight, and combined to add 
another chapter of glory to the interesting and romantic history 
of his eventful career, and his memorable journey on the happy 
shores of the great country, in whose behalf he had freely given 
some of the best years of his useful life ; to whose suffering sol- 
diers he had freely opened his purse ; in whose battles, near 
fifty years before, he had bravely fought, and conquered, and 
spilt his blood. 

He was escorted to Mrs. Hansford's boarding-house, a fine 
building then, but recently erected by Captain Robert E. Steed, 
at the west corner of East Main and East Streets, subsequently 
owned and occupied by Purser Fitzgerald, U. S. N., and now 
by H. B. Grigsby, Esq. With the entertainments and accom- 
modations there, the venerable visiter was highly pleased. At 
night, the town was most brilliantly illuminated. The citizens 
of Portsmouth were busy, too, in showing, on the interesting oc- 
casion, "honour to whom honour" was due, and that town also 
exhibited " a blaze of joy." The shores and river, in front of 
the town, w^ere lighted up with forty-two bonfires, producing a 
splendid effect. 

On the following day (Saturday), the General received crowds 
of visiters } among whom were, of course, our most prominent 
and respectable inhabitants. A grand banquet was held in the 
afternoon, at which there was soul-cheering music, as well as a 
plentiful supply of the delicacies of the season. The most cour- 
teous and respectful attentions were paid him there also by the 
citizens, and at night Portsmouth gave him a grand ball. 

After he had rested (on Sunday) from the fatigue of his jour- 
ney and reciprocal courtesies, the citizens of Norfolk were ready 
again, on Monday, to manifest in a most cordial and hospitable 
manner, the evidences of the lively sentiments of gratitude which 
swelled their hearts, for the valuable services of the brave and 
magnanimous Frenchman. At night a splendid ball was given 
him in the spacious rooms of the new Custom-House (there not 
being a more suitable place), which were elegantly arranged 



168 HISTORICAL AND 

and beautified for the occasion ; and a very large and fashionable 
assemblage here, again, paid their respects to him and those who 
accompanied him. 

The reception and entertainment of Lafayette were highly 
creditable to om' citizens, and those of the contiguous town. 
Norfolk, Portsmouth, and the surrounding country, joined 
heartily in the " spontaneous burst of acclamation and rejoicing" 
that rung through the length and breadth of the land. 

It is gratifying, by the way, to reflect upon the manner in 
which Lafayette was received, when he visited the happy land 
which he had so generously aided in becoming free and indepen- 
dent. 

As some evidence of the nation's gratitude. Congress very ap- 
propriately voted him $200,000, and a township of land, for his 
ample means had now been greatly reduced by reverses of for- 
tune ; and from north to south, from east to west, on a line of 
travel reaching near 5,000 miles, in city and town, and village 
and country seat, he was greeted with joy and delight, and ar- 
dent wishes for long life, health, and happiness, on account of 
the benefits he had conferred personally, and by his instrumen- 
tality, directly and indirectly. These important services had 
justly endeared him and his countrymen to the hearts of our 
people with the strongest ties of afi"ectionate regard. When he 
left his home and friends, and came to expose himself to the 
hardships of war for the benefit of an oppressed people, he was 
no mercenary in search of money and self-aggrandizement. 
" He was no nameless man, staking life for reputation ; he 
ranked among nobles, and looked unawed upon kings. He was 
no friendless outcast, seeking for a grave to hide his cold heart ; 
he was girdled by the companions of his childhood ; his kinsmen 
were about him ; his wife was before him. 

" Yet from all these he turned away, and came. Like a lofty 
tree that shakes down its green glories, to battle with the win- 
ter's storm, he flung aside the trappings of place and pride, to 
crusade for Freedom in Freedom's holy land. He came, — but 
not in the day of successful rebellion — not when the new-risen 
sun of Independence had burst the cloud of time, and careered 
to its place in the heavens. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 169 

" He came when darkness curtained the hills, and the tempest 
was abroad in its anger; when the plough stood still in the. field 
of promise, and briars cumbered the garden of beauty ; when 
fathers were dying, and mothers were weeping over them ; when 
the wife was binding up the gashed bosom of her husband, and 
the maiden was wiping the death-damp from the brow of her 
lover. He came when the brave began to fear the power of man, 
and the pious to doubt the favour of God. It was then that this 
ONE joined the ranks of a revolted people. Freedom's little 
phalanx bade him a grateful Avelcome. With them, he courted 
the battle's rage ; with theirs, his arm was uplifted ; with theirs, 
his blood was shed. 

;Jc ^ >|; ^ >1< * 

" After nearly fifty years, that one has come again. Can 
mortal man tell, can mortal heart feel, the sublimity of that 
coming? Exulting millions rejoice in it; and their long, loud, 
transporting shout, like the mingling of many winds, rolls on, 
undying, to freedom's farthest mountains. A congregated na- 
tion comes around him. Old men bless him, and children reve- 
rence him. The lovely come out to look upon him ; the learned 
deck their halls to greet him ; the rulers of the land rise up to 
do him homage. How his full heart labours. He views the 
rusting trophies of departed days ; he treads upon the high 
places where his brethren moulder ; he bends before the tomb of 
his FATHER ; — his words are tears — the speech of sad remem- 
brance. But he looks round upon a ransomed land and a joyous 
race ; he beholds the blessings, those trophies secured, for which 
those brethren died, for which that father lived ; and again his 
words are tears — the eloquence of gratitude and joy." 



170 HISTORICAL AND 

CHAPTER XXII. 

1824—1827. 

Lieutenant G. — Shipwreck — His Wife and Cliild— Affecting Scene— Sudden and 
Singular Deatli — Mrs. G.— Fire — Court-House and Jail Destroyed — Mr. 
Taylor and Dr. Slaughter — Court-House — Storm — High Tide — Destruction 
of Property — New Burying-Ground — Legacy of Elizabeth Crommeline — Ex- 
ports — Non-intercourse Laws — Mr. Tazewell — General Smith — Trade De- 
clining — Destructive Fire — Christ Church, &c., Burned — Loss and Distress — 
Countryman Frightened — Reports the Town on Fire — Ordinance concerning 
the Erection of Wooden Buildings — Lyceum — Its Name — Aristotle's School 
—Odd Fellows' Hall — Lancasterian School-Room — Interments in St. Paul's 
Graveyard Prohibited — Mild and Unseasonable Weather. 

" In the winter of 1824, Lieutenant G , of the United 

States Navy, with his beautiful wife and infant child, embarked 
in a packet at Norfolk, bound to Charleston, South Carolina. 
For the first da.y and night after their departure, the wind con- 
tinued fair and the weather clear ; but, on the evening of the 
second day, a severe gale sprung up, and towards midnight, the 
Captain, judging himself much farther from the land than he 
really was, and dreading the Gulf Stream, hauled in for the 
coast ; but with the intention, it is presumed, of lying-to when 
he supposed himself clear of the Gulf. Lieutenant G. did not 
approve of the Captain's determination, and the result proved 
that his fears were well founded ; for towards morning, the vessel 
grounded. 

"Vain would it be to attempt a description of the horror 
Avhich was depicted on every countenance, when the awful shock, 
occasioned by the striking of the vessel's bottom, was first ex- 
perienced. The terror of such a situation can be known only to 
those who have themselves been shipwrecked. No others can 
have a tolerable idea of Avhat passed in the minds of the wretched 
crew, as they gazed with vacant horror on the thundering ele- 
ments, and felt that their frail bark must soon, perhaps the next 
thump, be dashed to pieces, and they left at the mercy of the 
billows, with not even a plank between them and eternity. First 
comes the thumping of the vessel ; next, the dashing of the surge 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 171 

over her sides ; then, the careening of the vessel, on her beam 
ends, as the waves for an instant recede ; and lastly, the crashing 
of the spars and timbers at each returning wave ; the whole form- 
ing a scene of confusion and horror which no language can 
describe. 

"But awful as is the shipwrecked sailor's prospect, what are 
his feelings compared to the agony of a fond husband and father, 
who clasps in a last embrace his little world, — his beloved wife 
and child. The land was in sight ; but to approach it was 
scarcely less dangerous than to remain in the raging sea around 
them. Lieutenant G. was a seaman, and a brave one, accus- 
tomed to danger, and quick in seizing upon every means of 
rescuing the unfortunate. But 7iotv, ivho were the unfortunate 
that called on him for rescue ? Who were they, whose screams 
were heard, louder than the roaring elements, imploring that aid 
which no human power could afford them ? His ivife and child! 
0, heart-rending agony ! 

" But why attempt to describe what few can imagine ! In a 
word, the only boat which could be got was manned by two gal- 
lo,nt tars. Mrs. G. and her child and its nurse were lifted into 
it ; it was the thought of desperation ! The freight was already 
too much. Mr. G. saw this, and knew that the addition of him- 
self would diminish the chances of the boat's reaching the shore 
in safety ; and horrible as was the alternative, he himself gave 
the order, — ' Push off, and make for the land, my brave lads !' 
— the last words that ever passed his lips. The order was obeyed ; 
but ere the little boat had proceeded fifty yards (about half the 
distance to the beach), it was struck by a wave, capsized, and 
boat, passengers and all, enveloped in the angry surge. The 
wretched husband saw but too distinctly the destruction of all 
that he held dear. But here, alas ! and for ever, were shut out 
from him all sublunary prospects. He fell upon the decli, foiver- 
less, senseless, a corpse, — the victim of a sublime sensibility.* 

* It has been stated tliat the words, " Push off, and make for the land," &c., 
were not the last that were spoken by the devoted Lieutenant G. ; and that the 
giving of further orders, when the boat upset, together with the powerful ad- 
ditional mental excitement which it occasioned, in all probability caused the 
rupture of a blood-vessel, or some sudden and fatal derangement of the heart. 



172 HISTORICAL AND 

" But what became of the unhappy wife and chikl ? The an- 
swer shall be brief. Mrs. G. was borne through the breakers to 
the shore by one of the brave sailors ; the nurse was thrown upon 
the beach, with the drowned infant in her arms. Mrs. G. was 
taken to a hut senseless, continued delirious many days, but 
finally recovered her senses, and with them a consciousness of 
the awful catastrophe which, in a moment, made her a childless 
widow." 

February. A fire occurred on Main Street, which destroyed 
the old court-house and jail buildings, which stood at the head 
of Market Square. They had been, some years before, converted 
into stores, which were occupied mostly by persons now living. 
The site of the large block of buildings at the head of Market 
Square, now owned by the heirs of General Robert B. Taylor, 
was occupied by this old hall of justice. This property belonged 
jointly to Robert Taylor, Esq., the father of General R. B. 
Taylor, and Dr. A. Slaughter. Dr. S., as before stated, died 
in 1814, since which time the lots alluded to have been the pro- 
perty of the heirs of Mr. T. The old jail buildings were 
located between the court-house and Talbot Street-, on the 
site on which now stand the houses belonging to the heirs of 
Thomas Talbot and Tildsley Graham, Esq. ; including the large 
dry-goods buildings occupied by Messrs. Stewart and Jones, and 
belonging to the respected heirs of Mr. Talbot. 

The contracted and incommodious court-house, that was situ- 
ated on East Main Street (but recently taken down and removed), 
was built in 1790. 

In 1825, there was a violent storm, accompanied with an as- 
tonishingly high tide, which almost entirely inundated the lower 
portion of the town, materially damaging many articles of mer- 
chandise, such as sugar, salt, tobacco, &c., and floating away 
quantities of lumber and fire-wood. 

January 8. Act of Assembly passed, authorizing the Common 
Council to appropriate a piece of land as a new burying-ground. 
March 31, 1826. Ordinance passed providing for the esta- 
blishment of a new cemetery. 

July 11. An ordinance passed, providing for the disposition 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 173 

of legacies, left by Elizabeth Crommelinc to Christ Church, and 
the poor of the borough. 

She bequeathed, by will, one thousand dollars for the use of 
the poor, to be vested in stock, or placed at interest ; and the 
same amount for the benefit of Christ Church. 

For the year ending oOtli September, the exportations from 
this port amounted to $219,912, being $19,412 more than those 
from Baltimore for the same year. The exports from Norfolk 
were, with a few exceptions, in American vessels. From Balti- 
timore, produce to the amount of $43,174, included in the above 
calculation, was taken away in British vessels. 

This year the effect of the Non-intercourse Laws and commercial 
restrictive system, existing between the United States and Great 
Britain, with regard to the trade of the West Indies and the 
British Colonies, were very seriously felt by Norfolk ; indeed, it 
was highly detrimental to the trading interests of the southern 
ports generally. The commerce of our town now began very 
perceptibly to decline ; disastrous consequences ensued, as pre- 
dicted by Mr. Tazewell, of Norfolk, and General Smith, of Bal- 
timore ; whose able debates and efforts, with regard to this inte- 
resting and important, though complicated, subject, are well 
remembered by many at the present day. 

1827. On the morning of March 9, between one and tAvo o'clock, 
a fire broke out in a frame workshop, at the southeast corner of 
Main and Church Streets, Avhere now stands the National Hotel. 
The shop was occupied by a most industrious and estimable me- 
chanic, a coachmaker and wheelwright, now living. 

The wind blew a gale from about south by west. The work- 
shop was very soon destroyed, together with several adjacent 
buildings on Main Street. But the sparks and even the burning 
embers, were blown to a considerable distance up Church Street, 
on which, and on the western part of Mariner Street, the loss was 
very great. The Protestant Episcopal Church, which stood 
Avhere the Presbyterian Church noAv stands, was consumed. It 
was a large and lofty building. The block of buildings known 
as Murray's Row, Avas also destroyed. At this place. Mariner, 
between Church and Fenchurch Streets, the fire raged Avith fear- 
ful violence. 



174 HISTORICAL AND 

" It was a fearful night; 

The strong flame sped 
From street to street, from house to house, 

And on their treasures fed." 

The flames from the houses on either side of the street, united in 
one vast column, which towered above the highest houses, strew- 
ing the fiery missiles for many rods. The entire northeastern 
section of the town was menaced by the flames, and it was saved 
only by the most active exertions of the firemen and citizens. 
The large and handsome framed mansion, erected by Mr. Plume, 
and at that time occupied by Walter Horron, Esq., corner of 
Church and "Wood Streets, was set on fire by embers from the 
church, at a distance of half a mile below, and was also con- 
sumed. 

Every part of the town was most brightly illumined, and, 
indeed, the light of the conflagration was visible for many miles 
around. About sixty houses were burned. The flames, gather- 
ing strength and power from the strong wind that blew, filled 
the citizens on Church and Fenchurch Streets with great con- 
sternation and alarm. Many families were deprived of a shelter, 
and the loss of property was very considerable. It was stated 
that an individual from the country, on his way to market, on 
seeing the rapid spreading flames, and the showers of burning 
embers, concluded that the whole town was on fire ; whereupon he 
turned his horse, made the best of his way home again, and re- 
ported accordingly ! 

March 10th. Ordinance passed in Council, prohibiting the 
erection of wooden buildings of more than ten feet square and 
one story high, " on any lot or piece of land lying on Mason 
Street, as extended from Newton's Creek on the east, to Eliza- 
beth River on the west; or on any lot or piece of land lying 
southwardly or Avestwardly of said street." 

The immediate cause of the passing of this necessary prohibi- 
tion, was, doubtless, the destruction of property on the preceding 
day. The ordinance has been frequently violated, although the 
penalty is quite severe, viz., $20 for each off'ence, and $5 for 
every week thereafter, until the building is removed or taken 
down. By a recent ordinance, the prohibition extends to all 
lots south of Bute Street. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 175 

Marcli 23d. The Lyceum was opened. This was a neat, one- 
story buikling of brick, situated on the north side of Wolfe 
Street, and intended by the proprietor, Wm. Maxwell, Esq., for 
public lectures, the meeting of literary associations, &c. The 
name is the same as that of the place in which Aristotle instructed 
his pupils in philosophy. By adhering to his relative, Calis- 
thenes, this philosopher lost the favour of his pupil Alexander, 
and, therefore, removed from Mytilene to Athens, " where he 
set up his new school. The magistrates received him kindly, 
and gave him the Lyceum.^ so famous afterwards for the con- 
course of his disciples." 

The Norfolk Lyceum was purchased, in 1839, by the Odd 
Fellows, and greatly enlarged and improved, a second story 
having been added, for the purposes of that useful and respec- 
table Order. There are three commodious rooms on the first 
floor, Avhich are occupied by schools and debating societies. 

August 7th. Ordinance passed, providing for the building of a 
new Lancasterian school-room. 

Ordinance passed, prohibiting the burial of persons in the old 
church-yard of St. Paul's, whose near relations had not already 
been interred there. 

There was no frost in Norfolk or vicinity during the month of 
October, and in December following there was neither frost nor 
ice. 



CHAPTER XXIIL 

1828. 

Dry Dock at Gosport — Summer Days in IMidwinter — Vegetables, Flowers, and 
Birds — Melancholy Accident and Loss of Life — Three Midshipmen Drowned 
— Mr. Hunter's Fortitude, &c. — Snow — Ordinance concerning Fire-wood — 
Suggestion — Prices — Christ Church — Ministrations — Present Pastor — The 
Clock — Original Plan — Present Condition — Bell. 

January 1st, 1828. On this day was commenced that exten- 
sive and splendid piece of masonry, the Dry Dock, at the Navy 



176 HISTOmCAL AND 

Yard, Gosport. This clay was remarkably warm, and on the 5th 
of the month, the inhabitants found it most agreeable to dispense 
with fires, except those who could not consent to depart so far 
from the fashion of the season. Summer clothing was most 
comfortable ; blankets could not be endured at night, the doors 
and windows were thrown open, many sat in their porches, and 
enjoyed the evening's balmy air, while numbers of ladies and 
gentlemen promenaded the principal thoroughfares. Asparagus 
and other spring vegetables of mature growth were offered for 
sale in the market. The trees and shrubs budded. The blue- 
bird, the wren, and others of the sparrow kind, returned and 
resumed their matin songs. The sweet-scented hyacinth, and 
the lovely violet, with other gentle spring flowers, bloomed and 
perfumed the ambient air. The seasons, which 

" Gave ■warning of the lapse of time, that else 
Had stolen unheeded by," 

appeared almost to have changed their wonted course ; for in 
the month of January, instead of the usual supply of ice and 
snow, and the chilling breath of Boreas, the air was mild and 
pleasant, the south and southwestern zephyrs blcAV, and all na- 
ture began to assume the pleasing and enlivening aspect of the 
vernal time. 

On Saturday, April 5th of this year, a most melancholy oc- 
currence took place in the harbour. Midshipmen William J. 
Slidele, Frederick Rogers, Robert M. Harrison, and Bushrod 
W. Hunter, were out on a short pleasure excursion, in a sail- 
boat, which unfortunately capsized, and the three first-named 
gentlemen were drowned. They were all young men of fine 
promise, and very respectably connected ; and their sad, sudden, 
and unexpected fate Avas greatly lamented. The bodies were 
recovered, and those of Harrison and Slidele were among the 
first committed to the silent tomb in the new cemetery ; whither 
they were conveyed under very solemn and impressive circum- 
stances, and with every mark of respect for their worth, and 
sympathy for their untimely death. 

Mr. Hunter was rescued from his perilous situation, when life 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 177 

was nearly extinct. He luid endeavoured, -with uncommon for- 
titude and presence of mind, to cliccr his drowning companions, 
and encouraged them to continue their efforts to save themselves. 
He still lives, an ornament to our gallant Navy, to the church, 
and to society. 

On the 7th of April, it snowed considerably ; an interval of 
two years having elapsed since any had fallen in the borough or 
its neighbourhood. 

On June 20th, was passed "An Ordinance to amend and re- 
duce into one, the several ordinances concerning fire-wood." 
Among the requirements of this law, there is one which provides 
" that the cord of Avood shall measure eight feet in breadth, four 
feet in length, and four feet in height ; and that each and every 
piece or log of wood shall be sound, straight, free from project- 
ing knots, and of full length." 

It has been suggested, and perhaps very properly, that the 
measurer of wood, for house-keepers, should keep a correct daily 
record of all sales, purchasers' names, prices, &c. 

The price of hard wood, per cord, in the Norfolk market, 
varies, in the spring and summer months, from $2 00 to ^2 50 ; 
and of pine, from $1 75 to $2 25. In the fall and winter sea- 
sons, the price seldom exceeds $3 50 for hard, and $3 for pine; 
although, in very severe Aveather, the price has risen to $6, $7, 
and even $8. 

This year Christ Church (Protestant Episcopal) was erected. 
That beautiful building exhibits, as yet, but little of the usual effects 
of time. It was built with great care, and was truly a handsome 
ofiering to Him whose exalted name it bears. May it long re- 
main, as it noAV is, a monument of the liberality of the numerous 
and highly-respected congregation that assembles within its 
sacred walls ; and of the faithfulness, taste, and skill of its chief 
builder, Mr. L. Swain. The situation was well chosen ; being 
central, airy, and affording a good view of the edifice from several 
points. 

Its solid walls of brick are well stuccoed ; the windows are 
arched ; two massive columns stand at the front of the main 
entrance and partly support the gable and steeple. On each 
side of the entry is an ascent to the gallery. This neat edifice 

12 



178 HISTORICAL AND 

stands at the northwest corner of Cumberland and Freemason 
Streets, and fronts on the latter, being the oldest of three 
houses of worship, prominently situated, but a short distance 
from each other, on the west side of the last named street, and 
which combine to add greatly to the good appearance of the 
central part of our improving city. 

The excellent condition in which this sanctuary is kept, the 
good order always preserved during service, the devout elo- 
quence of its ministrations, and the sacred and soul-thrilling 
strains of its choir, accompanied by the solemn, soft, and deep- 
toned music of a very large and superior organ, combine to ren- 
der it a peculiarly attractive place of Divine worship. 

The clock attached to this building — that large and faithful 
time-piece, whose long-swinging pendulum has, for a quarter of 
a century, measured off the fleeting moments — contributes much 
to the convenience of the citizens, with regard to that which is 
but seldom, if ever, properly appreciated — 

" 'Tis folly's blank, and wisdom's highest prize." 

Christ Church, for some reason deemed sufficient by the build- 
ing committee, was not built exactly in accordance with the ori- 
ginal plan ; of which the steeple was better proportioned than 
that of the present building, which, it is thought, would have a 
finer efi"ect, if considerably higher. Both the interior and exte- 
rior of the house have been recently painted, and the former im- 
proved and supplied with the means of being brilliantly illumi- 
nated with gas. The bell of this church is very large and 
sonorous, having a rich, bold, and musical tone, which is some- 
times heard for more than ten miles. 

The present devoted and popular pastor of this church, Rev. 
Geo. D. Cummins, is a gentleman of great ability as a theologian 
and pulpit orator. IMany of his discourses are characterized by 
peculiar dignity and beauty of style, and energy of delivery. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 179 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

1828. 

Religious Revival— Lieutenant in the U. S. Army enters the Ministry— Talents 
— Preaches in Uniform — The People go in Crowds to Hear Him— Descrip- 
tion of a Camp Meeting Scene — The Young Preacher — Solemn and Impres- 
sive Devotions — Extraordinary Sermon— The Preacher's Style, Subject, &c. 
—Thrilling Interest and Wonderful Effect— Exciting Scene— The Preacher 
Overcome — Revivals — Melancholy Statement — Pastor of St. Paul's, New 
York— Other Preachers— Panny Baker— His Success and Usefulness— Affect- 
ing Scene — His Death — Presidents — Professors, Editors, &c. — Appropriate 
Work of Methodist Ministers — Methodism — Principles of Truth do not Change 
— Men Change — Reformation. 

About this period (1827-8), there was an extensive revival of 
religion in several of the churches of the town, and many others 
in the neighbouring counties, and, we believe, in various sections 
of the country. Many of our citizens date their permanent reli- 
gious impressions and the commencement of a life of piety, from 
this time. 

Some time during this or the preceding year, commenced, in 
this vicinity, the clerical career of a young gentleman of prepos- 
sessing manners, who exhibited commanding talents as an orator, 
and whose pulpit eiforts soon placed him prominently before the 
public as a successful revivalist, and an able minister of the 
gospel of Christ, while his fruits were sufficiently manifest, and 
his trophies sufficiently numerous, to attract the favourable 
notice and excite the fondest hopes of the church with which he, 
about that time, united. He was an officer in the United States 
Army, a lieutenant, we believe, and was then attached to a body 
of soldiers connected with that branch of the national defence, 
and garrisoned at Fortress Monroe. He was educated at West 
Point, where, at an early age, he had received strong religious 
impressions under the pious ministrations of Bishop Mcllvaine, 
of the Protestant Episcopal Church. At a revival of religion, 
which he attended in the Methodist Episcopal Church in Hamp- 
ton, about this period, he was a seeker after a deeper work of 



180 HISTORICAL AND 

grace and higher religious attainments ; and he was among the 
happy number who there partook largely of the divine influences ; 
shortly after which, he joined the Methodist Church. Manifesting 
very considerable religious zeal, and, as intimated above, decided 
ability as a speaker ; and, moreover, professing to be " moved 
by the Holy Ghost to preach," he became a member of the Me- 
thodist ministry, and promptly engaged in the awfully responsible 
work of proclaiming the " unsearchable riches of Christ." His 
preaching soon attracted great attention ; for it " was not with 
enticing words of man's wisdom, but in demonstration of the 
Spirit and of power." In Norfolk, Portsmouth, Hampton, and 
elsewhere, even his early efforts were highly commended. His 
style was pleasing, his delivery fluent, and his language chaste ; 
his voice agreeable and musical, his gestures graceful, and his 
whole manner in the pulpit exceedingly animated and impres- 
sive.* There was not observable, it is true, in the young orator, 
extraordinary acuteness of reasoning, nor was there any great at- 
tempt at deep and learned theological investigation ; these were not 
yet expected. But his illustrations were apt and striking ; and 
his thoughts upon the subjects chosen were expressed in a clear, 
winning, and graphic manner. Before he finally resigned his 
commission in the army, he occasionally spoke in undress uni- 
form, and, as may be supposed, he drew very large audiences to 
hear him. 

In 1828, he officiated at a camp meeting, held by the Metho- 
dists at " Nimmo's," a place famous, especially in those days, 
for striking exhibitions of Divine power, in the conversion of 
sinners, and for the copious outpouring of the spirit of the living 
God. The location is in the good old county of Princess Anne, 
about twenty-one miles from the city, and two miles below the 
court-house, in a section in which the Methodists have long pre- 
dominated. 



-X- t* 



' Let the rising ministry take warning ! Awkwardness in the pulj^it is a 
sin ; monotony a sin ; dulncss a sin ; and all of them sins against the welfare 
of immortal souls. 

"It is as easy to be graceful in gesture and natural in tone, as to be gram. 
matical." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 181 

A discourse, which he delivered at that time and place, is re- 
membered by many living at the present day. It was a quiet, 
bright, and beautiful Sabbath morning in August. The rudely 
and hastily constructed board tents, on the " camp-ground," were 
arranged in rows, forming three sides of a spacious square, amid 
a magnificent natural grove of oaks and beech, of gigantic growth, 
whose wide-spreading branches cast a dense shade, which an- 
swered well for the protection of the numbers who congregated 
beneath them, from the rays of the sun.* 

These lines of the poet, doubtless, express the feelings expe- 
rienced by many a devoted servant of God, at that place and on 
that occasion : — 

" God! thy greatness here I feel, 
Heeds my heart thy love's appeal, 
At thy forest shrine I kneel ; 
All my sins confessing ! 

"Here, with strength, my soul imbue, 
Light thy altar-fires anew. 
Aid me to be pure and true. 

Father! with thy blessing!" 

The voice of prayer and praise arose, and resounded far down 
in the deep green woods, where, too, the singing-birds sported 
and carolled merrily, as if rejoicing in their existence. The 
winds, as they came in gently from the sea, that rolled along in 
its might and majesty but a few miles distant, made melancholy 
music among the thick foliage above ; and, at intervals, the mur- 
muring sound of the breaking waves of " old Ocean," that 

" Played low upon the beach, 
Their constant music," 

mingled harmoniously, though solemnly, with the " moaning 
echoes of the wind." 

The young officer, who had been but recently transferred from 
the service of his country to the army of the "Lord of hosts" 

* That beautiful and extensive grove has long since disappeared. The 
"woodman" should have spared those trees. 



182 HISTOKICAL AND 

and tlie " God of battles," and who bad united with the " Sol- 
diers of the Cross," to fight in the bloodless warfare against the 
enemies of his Heavenly King, drew, as may be imagined, a 
large crowd to hear him on this occasion : a great concourse of 
people from the town, and from different sections of the sur- 
rounding country, were rapidly collecting together. 

At an early hour, he seemed in deep meditation, upon the 
works of God it may have been, as they were there manifested 
in the charming beauties of Nature, as well as upon the solemn 
message that he was about to deliver. 

At the hour specified for the sermon, a horn was blown ; and 
the seats beneath a capacious shelter, formed by the thick green 
branches of trees thrown upon a framework of poles, were all 
quickly filled with people of both sexes, old and young ; the fe- 
males being seated on the right, and the males on the left of the 
principal aisle, which divided the rows of benches ; while multi- 
tudes stood around. 

The coloured people, who were rapidly gathering too, from all 
directions, in their shady location a few rods distant, had not 
yet commenced their loud shouts, nor were they yet sufiiciently 
excited to engage in their frantic dance of joy, while, hand in 
hand, they formed a ring around the converts ; and their melo- 
dious, though simple notes of praise, were not yet too distinctly 
heard to break in upon the impressiveness of the scene; the 
whole vast assemblage anxiously awaited the appearance of the 
young preacher, and the commencement of his discourse. 

He soon walked from "the preacher's tent," accompanied by 
several other clerical brethren, and, with a light and graceful 
step, he ascended the "stand," or pulpit, which was built of 
rough boards, beneath the dense, umbrageous foliage of one of 
those tall old sons of the forest, 

" Whose deep-dug roots are twisted around the stout ribs of the globe, 
That mocketh at the fury of the storm, and rejoiceth in summer sunshine." 

An appropriate hymn was sung in a solemn tune ; and again 
those " wild old woods" resounded with the voice of praise. The 
music made there, by thousands of the most charming of all in- 
struments, that of the human voice, mingled and arose in one 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 183 

(Treat volume of melody, swelling out in loud, full, clear tones, 
while the concordant reverberations were heard around, appa- 
rently inspiring the hearts of all with solemnity ; calming down, 
perhaps, the agitated feelings of even the most hoary-headed 
sinner present, and impressing the mind of the gay and thought- 
less with the importance of eternal matters. A fervent prayer 
was oftcred at the throne of grace ; after which another hymn 
was sung, and then the preacher arose. 

"He glances at the assembly; but, although that glance is 
momentary, yet it speaks volumes, which those who mark can 
easily understand. His hearers feel that their best interests are 
dear to him. They sympathize with the travail of his soul. He 
opens the sacred volume, and all listen as if God himself were 
speaking. He announces the subject of discourse, in which all 
must feel interested. 

" In commencing he is deeply serious, although far from being 
loud and boisterous. The thoughts and feelings which have been 
confined in his breast at first escape in gentle accents. 

" He addresses .the understanding of his audience, knowing 
that they require to be informed before they can be excited ; that 
the way to the heart is through the understanding. His descrip- 
tions are clear. His pictures are vivid. His aim is direct. His 
hearers cannot mistake him. They feel the tendency of his 
thoughts, and they eagerly anticipate the object at which he is 
aiming. There is no dry detail ; no eccentric starting from the 
line which his peculiar and solemn circumstances have marked 
out for him." 

The great necessity of a speedy repentance and regeneration 
was urged ; the danger of delaying a prompt, decisive, and entire 
consecration of the heart to the Great Author of life, and the 
" Giver of every good and perfect gift ;" the wretchedness atten- 
dant upon, and surely following a life of impenitence ; the merits 
of a crucified Redeemer — the only hope, yet all-sufiBcient source 
of safety and deliverance from the impending dangers to which 
the deathless spirit of man is exposed ; the final doom of the 
lost ; the never-ending glory of the redeemed — 

" Time gone, the righteous saved, the wicked damned, 
And God's eternal government approved." 



184 HISTORICAL AND 

These, we believe, were some of the most prominent points in 
the sermon. 

" The only effectual method," says Blair, "to become pathetic, 
is to be moved yourselves. There are a thousand interesting 
circumstances suggested by real passion, which no art can 
imitate, and no refinement can supply. There is obviously a 
contagion among the passions.* And Cicero said, that the in- 
stances in which he was most successful, were those in which he 
abandoned himself to the impulses of feeling." Thus it was now 
with the speaker, very shortly after he announced the text. He 
appeared to feel, and doubtless did feel deeply, the importance 
of his subject ; he spoke fearlessly, forcibly, and convincingly, 
the overflowing sentiments of his heart, and the effect was most 
powerful, solemn, and extraordinary. 

His language was well chosen and appropriate ; but the tone 
of his voice, his looks and gestures, interpreted the emotions of 
his full heart. " For a while, an almost breathless anxiety pre- 
vailed, deeply impressive and solemnizing from its singular intense- 
ness." But this did not continue long, for it was soon broken 
by the audible and increasing responses from the other preachers 
and the more devotional part of the auditory ; and he had not 
spoken longer, perhaps, than half an hour, before a scene, such 
as has been rarely witnessed, began to manifest itself in the 
assembly. 

" As he proceeds along, he seems to gather a mysterious 
energy, arising not from wiredrawn theory or splendid creations 

* The following brief extract will serve to prove the truth of this statement 
of Mr. Blair, and to convey an idea of the style and manner of a successful 
preacher of an earlier period in the history of the church. 

" Lord save the sinner — save him .'" he cried, in the highest pitch of his voice. 
"Death is upon him, and hell follows. See, the bony arm is raised! The 
fatal dart is poised ! 0, my God ! save him— save him ! for if death strikes 
him, he falls, hell receives him ; and, as he falls, he shrieks, 'Lost! lost!! 
Lost ! ! ! Time lost ! Sabbaths lost ! Means lost ! Heaven lost ! All lost ! ! 
071(1 lost for ever!' 

"The effect was so overwhelming that two of the congregation fainted, and 
it required all the preacher's tact and self-command to ride through the storm 
which his own vivid imagination and powerful appeal had roused." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 185 

of fancy, but from tlie dear plain sentiments of truth.'^ The 
light which he at first scattered now begins to diffuse heat. lie 
soon becomes an altered man. 

" The powers of the world to come seem to take possession of 
his spirit. He draws the curtain which conceals the invisible. 
Earth and all its busy scenes vanish. Heaven and hell are re- 
vealed! Every countenance reveals the light of the one or the 
gloom of the other. There is not a careless or inattentive man 
in the place; all are compelled to look in the direction in which 
he points. He now feels that he has got access to the immortal 
souls with whom he is surrounded, and he does not fail to im- 
prove the precious moment. He urges with divine energy the 
things which belong to their eternal peace. He presses with re- 
sistless eagerness the inquiry, ' What shall I do to he saved !' 
He appeals to the conscience in a tone which it dares not refuse 
to answer. The aff"ections and passions are raised at his com- 
mand. Love, and fear, and hope, start from their slumbers, and 
the whole moral being becomes intensely awake." 

Tears were seen coursing down the cheeks of many of the 
listeners, while others turned pale, and trembled, as though their 
eternal doom had been sealed, and they stood upon the verge of 
destruction. Men and women shouted aloud ; but the speaker's 
voice, rising almost to its highest pitch, was yet distinctly heard 
by many whose eyes were intently fixed upon him, and who ex- 
hibited evidences of the deepest emotion, which continued until 
some fell suddenly upon the ground. This, indeed, was a fre- 
quent occurrence before he concluded. 

It was soon evident that the speaker's emotion was also gain- 
ing the mastery ; and his energy, excitement, and pious exulta- 
tion, still rapidly increasing, ho was completely overwhelmed by 
the intensity of his feelings ; and he suddenly fell prostrate upon 
the floor of the pulpit or stand, from which he was removed to 
one of the tents. 

An enclosed space in front of the pulpit, thickly covered with 
clean stalks of wheat, and furnished with benches, was crowded 

* The foundation of all that can be called eloquent, is good sense and solid 
thought. — Blair. 



186 HISTORICAL AND 

with kneeling penitents, while others lay at full length upon the 
straw, and many were to be seen under great excitement, and in 
attitudes of prayer, in different parts of the congregation. Seve- 
ral were so much affected, appeared so happy, so transported by 
the divine influence, that the body appeared to be scarcely 
capable of retaining the spirit ; and such rejoicing and cries for 
mercy, and general manifestations of mental agitation and ex- 
citement as took place on that occasion, especially after the 
speaker himself had fallen, have rarely, if ever, been witnessed 
since ; and it is a well-known fact, too, that this meeting was 
remarkable for deep, powerful, and genuine religious convictions, 
and for the large number of hopeful and unwavering converts. 

The scene resembled those which were often witnessed during 
the extraordinary pulpit efforts of the celebrated Whitefield; 
when, to use his own words, " the whole congregation was 
alarmed; crying, weeping, and wailing, were to be heard in 
every direction ; many were seen falling into the arms of their 
friends ; and my own soul was carried out till I could scarce 
speak any more." 

May we not appropriately put the question, Why are not such 
manifestations of God's convicting, converting, and sanctifying 
power, witnessed more frequently at the present day? Divine 
power is undiminished; grace as freely bestowed ; "Jesus Christ, 
the same yesterday, and to-day, and for ever." 

It may be said of this, as of other kindred religious revivals, 
that it was all the result of sympathy, or mere " animal excite- 
ment," — a sudden and transient ebullition of feeling, soon to 
evaporate, — 

"A bi'iglitly flashing, glowing fire, 
That burns, — but only to expire." 

To some extent, or with some individuals, doubtless, the excitement 
was transitory ; evanishing too soon, alas ! and leaving no trace 
of any real good effect. But, that truly religious impressions, and, 
in many cases, a most gratifying change from sinfulness to deep, 
permanent piety, and extensive usefulness, were the happy re- 
sults, cannot be reasonably doubted, — to the truth of which, 
the closing hours of life, ay, and many a death-bed scene, have 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 187 

testified plainly and uncquivocallj. How often, indeed, has the 
dying Christian joyfully pointed back to a season of religious 
excitement, resembling, in many respects, that described above, 
as the commencement of the life of devotion, -which enabled him 
to launch out fearlessly upon the death-stream, triumphing in 
the blissful hope of entering safely the bright and peaceful haven 
of eternal repose ; leaving a comforting assurance for the conso- 
lation of surviving friends, and exclaiming, -with his last expiring 
breath, " All is well, all is well." 

The indulgent reader must excuse another allusion to this sub- 
ject. The writer has heard an individual, a man of intelligence, 
who heard the discourse described above, and who concealed and 
stifled his convictions, declare that his refusal to yield then and 
there, to the powerful influences of the Spirit of God, and to 
accept the ofters of pardoning mercy upon the juat and simple 
terms of the gospel, was the most unhappy incident of his whole 
history, — a circumstance which has embittered his life for a 
quarter of a century. 

Rev. Martin P. Parks, now of Saint Paul's, Broadway, New 
York, formerly Professor at Randolph Macon College, Chaplain 
at West Point, &c., is the esteemed clergyman whose pulpit minis- 
trations, long years ago, are still so well recollected. His devout, 
though much less impassioned eloquence, has often been heard in 
Christ Church in this city. 

There were several other excellent preachers present on the oc- 
casion alluded to ; among them were Rev. Bennet T. Blake, Rev. 
Dr. Daniel Hall, and Rev. John P. Baker, or, as he was familiarly 
called, "Panny Baker." They were then members of the Vir- 
ginia Conference, and Avere generally esteemed for their useful- 
ness, and abundant success as ministers of the gospel. We ofier 
some remarks relative to one of the three whose names we have 
given. 

Rev. Panny Baker, who is well remembered by persons in this 
city, but especially by many of the good people of that section 
of Princess Anne County to which we have alluded, was, in some 
respects, an extraordinary man. Illiterate, homely in person, 
of an indifferent physical constitution, he was, nevertheless, a 
man of wonderful faith, — powerful in the place of prayer, or at 



188 HISTORICAL AND 

the seeker's bencli ; and it is very probable that his labours were 
more successful, and more signally blessed, than those of any 
minister who has succeeded him upon that " circuit." His health 
was early sacrificed to the cause in which he laboured. " Con- 
sumption, that sly and deceitful destroyer," fastened its deadly 
fangs upon his vitals. Pale, emaciated, broken down, perhaps 
by over-exertion, but "rejoicing in hope," and patient in suffer- 
ing, he appeared upon the camp-ground; hundreds flocked around 
the carriage in which he reclined ; and as he reached forth his 
trembling hand, and looked upon the people with an expression 
of deepest tenderness and concern, assuring them that he should 
see them no more in this world, and entreating them to meet him 
in Heaven, whither he was hastening, tears flowed most copiously 
down many a cheek, and from eyes unused to weeping ; while 
stout hearts, which, perhaps, he had failed to move before, were 
now made to feel. It has been stated that not one among the 
hundreds who took leave of him, on that occasion, failed to shed 
tears freely, and to feel most deeply. 

A few weeks thereafter, at the residence of Rev. Dr. Webb, 
he breathed his last breath, and his pure and happy spirit tri- 
umphantly ascended to Him, whom he had so faithfully endea- 
voured to serve on earth. 

We will observe, and, we trust, without incurring censure for 
indulging in what may be considered an unprofitable digression 
here, that it has been a source of controversy and regret among 
some of the members of the Methodist Church, in this and other 
sections of our State, and elsewhere, that several of its ablest 
ministers have heeded and accepted a call, to retire from the 
regular duties of the itinerancy, to act as presidents and profes- 
sors of colleges, editors, &c. 

It is thought, by many judicious persons, to be an unwise 
policy to deprive the church of the immediate influence of their 
personal ministrations upon the people — of their ministerial 
efi"orts in the " travelling connexion," inasmuch as their present 
places, as it is declared, might be supplied by local preachers or 
laymen. It is afiirmed that the work of Methodist ministers 
is to travel and preach ; " to go," using the words of the founder 
of Methodism, " not only to those who want them, but to those 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 189 

who leant them most ; to spend and be spent in the work." The 
pulpits and altars of the churches, the meetings for prayer and 
pi'aisc, the family circle, the couch of the sick and dying, the 
damp hovels of the wretched, the prison-houses, the cottages 
of the poor, and the palaces of the rich, too — these, it is thought, 
constitute the legitimate fields of labour for Methodist ministers ; 
not merely in some particular and favoured locations, but (in its 
regular turn) in every part of the territory embraced in the juris- 
diction of the Conferences to which they belong. But strong and 
convincing arguments have been adduced in justification of the 
course pursued by the church, and alluded to above. 

There are some persons, who, on taking a glance at the church- 
going portion of the community, are wont to exclaim, " Metho- 
dism has changed." But doctrines and principles, if properly 
based upon the infallible Word, alter not in their nature. The 
rise and fall of empires ; the heavy, onward tread of hostile 
armies, sated with the blood, and hardened by the fearful and 
unavailing shrieks of injured innocence ; earth's deep heavings 
and convulsions; the "crush of worlds;" the ample sweep of 
unmeasured and immeasurable eternity, all combined, will not 
suffice, it is well enough known, to produce a change in a single 
well-established principle of divine truth. It is man, unstable man, 
that changes, and wanders into error. The delusive efi"ects of 
sin and satanic agency upon his heart, seduce him into forbidden 
paths, away from the once adopted and immovable standards of 
Christian faith. There are many, however, both in this and the 
other branches of the church militant, " who hold fast the pro- 
fession of their faith without wavering." 

The impatient reader will say we have travelled quite far 
enough from our proper course ; and so, perhaps, we have. But 
who will declare, after taking a look at the " signs of the times," 
that some great reformer, with a big, unfaltering heart like 
Luther's, — firm, resolute, steady to his purpose ; urged onward 
by the all-powerful principle of love to God, and the souls of 
men, — would not find work to do in orthodox churches of every 
persuasion, in pointing professors back to the holy standards of 
faith and practice, which, at the present day, are in too many 
cases, sadly neglected ? 



190 HISTORICAL AND 

CHAPTER XXV. 

1828—1832. 

Dismal Swamp Canal — iMethoclist Protestant Churcli — Naval Hospital — Snow- 
storm— Population — Dr. M'Alpine — Cold Weather — Anniversary Celebra- 
tion — Procession — Interesting Disjjlay — Oration, &c. — Strange Solar Ap- 
pearance — Insurrection in Southampton — Its Effect — Increasing Commerce 
—Mayor— Singular Weather— The Cholera— Death of the Mayor— Death of 
John Tunis, Esq. — His Enterprise, &c. — Philanthropic Remark— Benevolent 
Idea — Reflections— Riches— Dr. Johnson — Utility of Poverty— Old Methodist 
Church Taken Down— New Building Dedicated— Dr. William A. Smith. 

On Wednesday, December 31st, the Dismal Swamp Canal was 
completed, and opened for the uninterrupted passage of vessels: 

The Methodist Protestant Church was organized this year 
(1828). The theatre that stood on Fenchurch Street was pur- 
chased by that denomination, and converted into a house of wor- 
ship. This having been burnt a few years after, the present 
neat building, on Church, near Freemason Street, was bought, 
and the members still worship there. Rev. John Whitefield is 
the present able and esteemed pastor. 

1829. The Naval Hospital, near the site of Old Fort Nelson, 
was commenced this year. It is a very large and exceedingly 
commodious and handsome stone building, finely adapted to the 
important purpose for which it is intended. The location was 
well chosen, being healthful, retired, and convenient. This mas- 
sive structure is a splendid ornament to the harbour, and pre- 
sents its beautiful and lofty front for the admiration of the 
beholder on coming up the river, or from the Norfolk side. The 
strictest order and discipline are observed at the establishment, 
and its utility at this great naval depot is obvious. 

March 19, 21. Great snow-storm. 

1830. Population of Norfolk, 9,860. 

Died, this year, in Kempsville, Princess Anne County, Doctor 
James M'Alpine, a physician of great popularity, and remarkable 
for his skill and success in the treatment of disease, as well as for 
the deep interest which he manifested in his patients of every 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 191 

class. His death was sudden and unexpected, and the sad news 
spread with astonishing rapidity through the length and breadth 
of the county. Old and young, white and coloured, were startled, 
and greatly distressed by the intelligence ; and, indeed, a death 
has seldom, if ever occasioned more general sorrow in Princess 
Anne County. A large concourse of persons attended the 
funeral, and very many gave unmistakeable evidence of their 
sincere grief for the great loss which the county had sustained. 

1831. During the month of January, the weather was exceed- 
ingly cold. The usual trips of the old steamboat Hampton, 
Captain S. Selden, were prevented, on one or more occasions, by 
the ice, which was of considerable thickness in the harbour ; and 
on the 18th, a severe snow-storm commenced. 

The anniversary of American Independence was celebrated 
this year in a style that far surpassed all other occasions of the 
kind in Norfolk. The recollection of such an evidence of de- 
voted patriotism on the part of our citizens twenty years ago, is 
pleasing, especially to those who Avitnessed the splendid display 
which marked the return of the fifty-fifth birthday of the nation. 

The rising of the sun, on that bright morning, was greeted by 
heavy discharges of artillery, and, at an early hour, a procession 
was formed, comprising the diiferent volunteer companies, and a 
long train of large cars, or carriaqjes, which consisted of plank 
platforms on wheels. On these, the different trades were repre- 
sented, and as they passed along, drawn by fine horses, it was 
truly animating to behold the different mechanical operations, by 
a judicious and ingenious arrangement, all busily and systemati- 
cally going on, — the carpenter at his bench, amid the shavings 
that curled rapidly from his jack-plane; the brick-mason, amid 
his bricks and mortar, causing the shrill sound of his trowel to 
resound far and wide ; the blacksmith, with his dingy face and 
brawny arms, his roajing bellows and heavy sledge, causing the 
sparks to fly, like a "fiery shower," from the gloAving bar, and 
"fall like golden rain around him;" the painter, the hatter, the 
cordwainer, &c., &c., each in his respective car, was to be seen 
engaged at his useful and indispensable avocation. 

The procession, after marching through the principal streets, 
halted on Freemason Street, at about eleven o'clock; at which 



192 HISTORICAL AND 

hour, H. B. Grigsby, Esq., formerly editor of the Norfolk Beacon, 
delivered, in Christ Church, an oration, which was characterized 
by well-chosen subjects, as well as great strength and beauty of 
language, combined with superior rhetorical skill, and a graceful 
delivery. After the conclusion of the address, the procession 
again took up the line of march. Salutes were fired ; fine bands 
of music cheered the hearts of the multitudes ; the government 
and merchant ships were handsomely dressed with maritime flags; 
the streets were thronged with visiters from the neighbouring 
towns and counties, and never in any place of the same size was 
there a more charming exhibition of female beauty than on that 
exciting and interesting occasion. But, alas ! there were some 
who mingled in the gay and cheerful crowd that day, that were 
marked as victims of the dreadful scourge of the succeeding year, 
then already on its mysterious and rapid course to the western 
continent. True it was, that some of those, whose hearts beat 
with the liveliest emotions of pleasure then, 

"Ere tlie twelve months made tlieir round again," 

were reposing in deep sepulchral stillness. 

The citizens were much surprised, on the morning of August 
13th, by the very strange appearance of the sun. Owing to some 
change or derangement of the atmosphere of that great central 
luminary of our system, a very singular phenomenon was exhi- 
bited. The sun's disk seemed, on rising, to have changed from 
the usual brilliant golden colour to a pale, greenish tint, which 
soon gave place to cerulean blue, and this, also, to a silvery 
white. In the afternoon, he appeared like an immense circular 
plane of polished silver ; and to the naked eye there was exhi- 
bited, on his surface, an appearance that was termed a " black 
spot." The sun shone with a dull, gloomy light, and the atmo- 
sphere was moist and hazy. These phenomena excited much 
wonder and astonishment among the people. The credulous 
were induced to believe that some awful calamity was about to 
happen ; and among the various speculations of the more intelli- 
gent part of the citizens, none appeared to be satisfactory. It 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 193 

was evident, however, that some were waiting in considerable 
suspense to witness what would come next. 

During this month, came the startling intelligence of the 
bloody affair in Southampton County. Mounted forces, well 
armed and equipped for battle, proceeded from Norfolk, Ports- 
mouth, and elsewhere, to assist in quelling the insurrection, and 
in arresting the deluded and inhuman -wretches. The diabolical 
plans of Nat Turner, and his wicked and misguided followers, 
were soon effectually defeated, and the ringleaders brought to 
justice and condign punishment. We refrain from a statement 
of the particulars of this affair, in which some estimable residents 
of a neighbouring county came to a violent death, and by which 
the voice of mourning was caused to be heard in several highly 
respected families of this city. 

The excitement on this occasion was, of course, immense ; and 
no little alarm and mistrust was induced, especially among the 
female portion of the community, which the lapse of more than 
twenty years has scarcely sufficed to eradicate from the minds 
of all. The immediate effect of this insurrection was to tighten 
the reins of servitude, to cause a more entire subordination to 
be insisted upon by masters, and to excite a greater degree of 
vigilance over the movements of servants. 

1832. This year, gloomy as are the recollections of it, in some 
respects, was noted as the beginning of a brighter period in the 
mercantile history of the town of Norfolk. Commerce began to 
flourish; the number of vessels, both large and small, arriving 
in our port, rapidly increased. Although against wind and tide, 
the old borough now began to move slowly and surely onward in 
her career of prosperity. To the lumber trade, for which Nor- 
folk has long been noted, a fresh impulse was given ; and, in- 
deed, in all the different branches of business a reaction was ob- 
servable, notwithstanding the sad and fatal pestilential visitation 
of that year. 

Jan. 20. Act of Assembly passed, vesting in the freeholders 
and qualified voters the privilege of electing the Mayor of the 
borough. 

The weather, during the month of May of this year, in this 
section of the country, was remarkable for the season. Gentle 

13 



194 HISTORICAL AND 

easterly winds prevailed ; and nearly the whole montli was 
humid, cloudy, and dreary. The atmosphere was light and en- 
feebling, and exhalations floated near the surface of the earth. 
f These circumstances combined to prepare the physical system 
/ for the ravages of the approaching destroyer, of whose presence, 
a few weeks after, the dying and the dead gave painful and un- 
mistakable evidence. 

Among the victims of the cholera, during its first visit to the 
town, there were some valuable citizens, whose sudden departure 
\ cast a deep gloom over the community ; yet, it must be admit- 
''ted, that a large majority of those who fell a prey to the dire 
and mysterious disease, were generally persons of enfeebled con- 
stitution, whose health had been impaired by age, protracted 
disease, or intemperance ; or whose habits of life were irregular 
and uncleanly. Those enjoying a good state of health, who 
yielded to the effects of the scourge, had prepared the system 
for it by imprudence in diet ; and many of such cases might 
have been cured, had the nature of the disease been better under- 
stood by the physicians. It was a melancholy time, indeed; all 
appeared sad, many were greatly alarmed, a number of the citi- 
zens left the place, and some of the stores were closed. 

During the summer of this year, the celebrated Indian war- 
rior, Black Hawk, passed through the town. 

October 13th, departed this life, John E. Holt, Esq., who 
had been for twenty years Mayor of the borough. He was an 
intelligent and efficient officer, and manifested a lively interest 
in the welfare of the town. 

On the 8th of December, Norfolk lost another valuable citizen, 
John Tunis, Esq., who was distinguished for his public spirit 
and usefulness in advancing the local interests of the borough. 
As an opulent merchant, he was noted for his liberality, inte- 
grity, and general information. His plans for future operations, 
and schemes for the advancement of the town, were extensive 
and judicious; some of which had already commenced. But, 
alas ! he was called away from the busy scenes of this life, ere 
he could realize the consummation of his arrangements. 

This enterprising gentleman remarked,'but a short time before 
his death, that if his plans should succeed, and he was not often 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 195 

mistaken in his calculations, there would not in a few years be 
a man or woman in the borough necessarily without employment. 
"If my abilities were equal to my wishes," said the brilliant 
Addison, " there should be neither pain nor poverty in the 
universe." Here was a grand and benevolent idea, but, at the 
same time, a still more grand impossibility, far beyond the reach 
of the limited powers of man or angel ; and an implied desire of 
doubtful propriety, even though it could be carried out ; for God, 
in his wisdom, sees fit to inflict pain and poverty on many a noble 
sojourner here ; and the most unmixed, unalloyed happiness, is 
frequently to be found in the humble walks of life, and even 
beneath the roof of extreme poverty. Listen, as you pass, at the 
silent twilight hour, the humble and quiet abode of some devoted, 
though indigent, old "mother in Israel;" and you hear her 
chaunting the praises of God. The lonely pious widow, or the 
devout poor man, far retired from the busy world, amid great 
earthly privations, is often to be found in the enjoyment of real 
happiness ; as " cheerful as an angel of love on an errand of 
mercy," and rejoicing in the anticipation of the " rest that re- 
maineth for the people of God." Poverty is sometimes of great 
utility; "necessity is the mother of invention." Nevertheless, 
riches are very desirable, and are often the means of usefulness 
and happiness. Besides, as said the " colossus of English litera- 
ture,"* who had suffered the inconvenience of indigence, and who 
had been sorely pressed by circumstances of absolute want — 
scarcely able to procure the common necessaries of life : 

" This mournful touth is everywhere confessed : 
Slow rises worth, by poverty distressed." 

It is this, however, that sometimes lights up the latent or 
smouldering fires of genius. Poverty and distress often excite the 
mind of man to action, and nerve him to the performance of what 
he would not dream of undertaking in prosperous circumstances. 
And as the strength of the old oak, standing alone upon the moun- 
tain side, is often greatly increased by exposure to the fury of the 
roaring tempest, taking deeper root when rudely rocked by the 

* Dr. Johnson. 



196 HISTORICAL AND 

howling storm-god ; so misfortune and distress often combine to 
render the strong man still stronger. 

But the object determined upon by the individual, the date of 
whose death we record, was considered by him to be quite within 
the range of possibility, and not beyond the reach of perseve- 
rance, and extensive, well-directed personal effort ; and a suitable 
appropriation of ample facilities and large capital, the great 
essential elements of all vast enterprises. And although the 
wish implied was limited in comparison with that of the " Chris- 
tian philosopher," yet it was an evidence of generous impulses 
and a noble soul, that felt deeply for the welfare of others. 
Hence the record of his remark here. 

The old Methodist church on Cumberland Street was taken 
down this year, and a very large and commodious house erected, 
which, in March, 1833, was dedicated to the service of God by 
the Rev. Wm. A. Smith, through whose instrumentality it was 
built. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

1833—1836. 

Public Square — Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad Company — Extensive Fire — 
New Buildings — Meteoric Phenomenon — Citizens alarmed — Railroad Stock 
— Roanoke Navigation Company — City Debt — Railroad Bill passed — Demon- 
strations of Joy — Sabbath Desecration — Commercial Prosperity — Great Guns 
and Fireworks — Failure of the Road — Rebuilding of the Road, and its Pros- 
pects — Death of General R. B. Taylor — City Inspector — Earthquake — Back 
Creek — Shipping — Cold Weather — St. Paul's Cemetery — Religious Revival — 
Almshouse — Another Railroad Subscription. 

1833. February 27th. Act of Assembly passed, authorizing 
the filling up of that portion of Back Creek, on the east of Bank 
Street, to establish a public square. 

April 3. Ordinance passed, authorizing a subscription for 
stock in the Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad Company, to the 
amount of $60,000 — twelve hundred shares. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 197 

On the night of November 4th, an extensive fire occurred on 

the south side of Main Street, which consumed some eighteen or 
twenty okl wooden buildings, extending from a few doors east of 
Market Square to Marsden's Lane. This fire was considered a 
public benefit. That important portion of the city, including 
Newton's Row, and the Mechanics' Ilall in particular, presents 
a striking contrast to the unsightly, hip-roofed, sharp top, and 
rickety hovels that fed the flames on that occasion. 

On Wednesday morning, November 15th, the well-remem- 
bered meteoric phenomenon was exhibited to the view of those 
of the citizens who were so fortunate (?) as to be early aroused 
from their slumbers, and great was the consternation and asto- 
nishment of the beholders of the great starry shower. Some 
fell on their knees and cried for mercy, as if at the eleventh 
hour, tremblingly expecting the near approach of the end of all 
earthly things ; Avhile others rejoiced in anticipation of the coming 
of the " mighty angel from heaven, clothed with a cloud, and a 
rainbow upon his head, and his face, as it were, the sun, and his 
feet pillars of fire," to swear "that there should be time no longer." 
A few calmly viewed the strange and sublime appearance, and 
with profound awe, wonder, and humiliation, adored nature's 
great Author, patiently awaiting the result. 

December 4. The council agreed to a farther subscription to 
the Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad stock, of $40,000, being 
800 additional shares. 

" The city had previously subscribed $20,000 to the old Roa- 
noke Navigation Company, to prolong its existence. The whole 
of that appropriation was sunk, together with $80,000 more, 
subscribed by public-spirited individuals, anxious to secure that 
valuable trade, without stopping to calculate the chances of 
profit or loss from the investment j)er se. But did the corpora- 
tion lose its $20,000 ? No, not a dollar of it. In the place of 
the defunct Roanoke Company, there sprung up a spirited and 
thrifty trade with the Roanoke, and other rivers in North Caro- 
lina, on individual account, to which the expenditure of the 
capital of that company had pioneered the way, and the in- 
crease of business in the city, and of the revenue therefrom to 



198 HISTORICAL AND 

the coflFers of the corporation, sufficed to cover its loss of $20,000 
in three or four years, as may be seen by reference to the com- 
missioner's books of that period. 

" The increase of the city debt, about this period (1833-4), con- 
sisted : 1st, in the subscription of $100,000 to the Portsmouth and 
Roanoke Raih-oad Company, authorized by the almost unani- 
mous vote of the citizens ; 2dly, an expenditure of nearly 
$40,000 in getting up a separate ferry ; and 3dly, an appro- 
priation, by the Common Council, of $13,000 to prop up the 
railroad when it Avas on its last legs. Total, $153,000 — out of 
which there remains, as property, about the sum of $10,000, in 
a wharf in Portsmouth, and improvements to the corporation 
ferry wharf in Norfolk. The balance, $143,000, was virtually a 
total loss, though, in reality, it was offsetted by no inconsider- 
able increase of revenue from the trade on the railroad, during 
the seven years of its existence ; and the estimated amount of 
ferry stock ($10,000) has been, for a number of years, produc- 
ing an income of $1,000 per annum." 

1834. On the evening of the 19th of January, came the intel- 
ligence that the Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad Bill had 
passed. It was unfortunate that the news was received on Sun- 
day ; for the Divine injunction, the serenity and calmness of the 
Sabbath evening hour, and all the hallowed associations insepa- 
rably connected with the sacred day of rest, were insufficient to 
induce a large portion of the citizens of both towns to repress 
their feelings of rejoicing. It was a close vote, but the bill was 
: now a law of the State; the battle had been fought, and the vic- 
tory just barely won ; and the inhabitants of Norfolk and Ports- 
mouth looked eagerly out, as it Avere, upon the brightening 
future, with cheering anticipations of prosperity, w^ealth, and 
commercial greatness. So the bells rung a merry peal ; great 
guns announced the glad news for thirty miles around. Several 
field-pieces had been placed at suitable distances on the road to 
Suffolk, to which place the information w'as carried, by succes- 
sive firing, in a few moments after it was known here. The 
evening being cloudy, and the air favourable for the communi- 
cation of sound, the effect of the rapid and consecutive firing 
was somewhat singular. For many seconds, there was a loud, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 199 

irregular, continuous roar, very much resembling successive and 
heavy peals of thunder. Bonfires blazed on the wharves, and 
in some of the principal streets ; — Church Street was brilliantly 
illumined. Kegs of powder were moistened, and fired along the 
shores; hundreds of rockets shot forth over the river; and, "for 
more than two hours, the town rang with notes of rejoicing." 

After a succession of insurmountable difficulties, this road 
became useless, and was abandoned ; the hopes of those who had 
been most sanguine of its success, and of its inestimable advan- 
tages to Norfolk and Portsmouth, were blasted ; and the evi- 
dences of disappointment and gloom then exhibited, are too well 
remembered to need a record here.* May not the unjustifiable 
desecration of the Sabbath, on the reception of the news of the 
success of the bill in the legislature of the State, have been one 
cause of its rapid downfall ? But it has risen again under cir- 
cumstances calculated to inspire the most confident hopes o 
complete success, and it will doubtless prove highly beneficial to 
this community. 

April 13. Departed this life. Judge Robert B. Taylor, an 
eminent jurist, to whom allusion has been, and will hereafter be, 
made in these sketches. 

July 1. Ordinance passed, increasing the salary of the City 
Inspector to $800. 

August 27. Tuesday — between the hours of 6 and 7 a.m., the 
shock of an earthquake was very sensibly felt in Norfolk and 
vicinity. 

November 25. Ordinance passed, providing for the filling up 
of Back Creek, above Bank Street Bridge, for a public square. 

1835. In the month of January, there wore more square- 
rigged vessels in our harbour than there had been, at any one 
time, since 1820. Among them were a number of British brigs 
from the West Indies. 

February 10. Exceedingly cold ; mercury in thermometer 26° 
below zero ; river frozen over. 

■" The failure of the Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad was caused by bad 
management, over which Norfolk had no control, and which she was powerless 
to remedy. 



200 HISTORICAL AND 

February 29. All interments in the old burying-ground (St. 
Paul's), prohibited from this date. 

During this year, there was an extensive religious revival in 
the several Protestant churches in Norfolk and vicinity. 

June 8th, 1836. Ordinance passed, providing for the payment 
of the contract with VVm. McLain, for the erection of the new 
Almshouse. 

An ordinance was also passed at this date, authorizing a sub- 
scription of $50,000, for stock in a proposed railroad from Eden- 
ton to Norfolk. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

1836. 

Centenary of the Borough Charter — Reflections — Centennial Celebration — 
Procession — Mace — Oration by Wm. Maxwell, Esq. — Hymn — Aquatic Ex- 
cursion — Fireworks — Serenade — Eeflections. 

September 15th. A century had now elapsed since the 
Royal Charter was granted, and this was a day of very conside- 
rable interest in the history of the borough ; a day both of re- 
joicing and serious meditation. The man of reflection could not 
but go back upon the swift wing of thought, and linger awhile 
"in solemn contemplation," amid the varied scenes of that long 
interval, pregnant as it had been with changes, revolutions, and 
commotions, political and religious, at home and in distant 
lands ; affecting not only the welfare of our town and its resi- 
dents, but also that of the State and the country at large — in- 
volving the highest interests of the vast AYestern Continent and 
of the whole world. Kings and crowns had fallen ; great con- 
querors had arisen — had run their course of glory, and returned 
to the peacefulness of retirement, or ended their days in the 
dreariness of exile. A check had been put upon the power of 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 201 

despotism. Rivers of human blood had been shed ; but anarchy 
and oppression had given way to the reign of justice ; and the 
darkness of superstition had been succeeded by the brilliant 
light of truth divine. The edicts of injustice and cruelty had 
come over the wide and heaving bosom of the ocean ; but a man- 
ful resistance had been offered ; a noble and a glorious compact 
had been signed ; eloquent voices from the Old Dominion and 
elsewhere had rung out long and loud, and an oppressed people 
had heard and heeded the spirit-stirring and truthful appeals. 
A great though unequal contest had commenced, progressed, and 
ended gloriously for the sons of freedom, in " Freedom's Holy 
Land." Hard blows had been aimed by the sacrilegious hand of 
fanaticism at the sacred ties that bind the different members of 
this great confederation ; but thus far the Union had remained 
"one of many," firm as the Andes in their rocky foundations, 
and was still dispensing the untold blessings of its example, and 
the bright light of its influence upon the present happiness and 
eternal destiny of earth's babbling millions. 

A hundred long years had sped on their course, and were lost 
in the deep oblivious ocean of the past. During their rapid 
flight, how many of those who had acted their part in life's short 
drama, had retired, at its conclusion, behind the impenetrable 
curtain which Death drops between time and eternity ! Of 
the inhabitants even of the town of Norfolk and its vicinity, 
what numbers had been laid Ioav in their cold and narrow beds, 
and had long been sleeping the deep, undisturbed sleep of death, 
awaiting the loud blast of the trumpet that "shall sound!" 
Two generations had ascended the stage of life, had pressed 
quickly by, and gone down to the gloomy regions of silence and 
forgetfulness ; and a third was then departing and following on 
in the beaten track. The old and the young ; the most honoured 
citizen and the least regarded mendicant ; the tender babe, the 
joyous youth, and the strong man in his prime — all, all had been 
arrested by Death, and forced to submit to the sad penalty to 
which Adam's sin rendered man amenable. The bright eye of 
beauty had closed ; the cheek of roseate hue had grown pale in 
death ; cheerful voices had long been hushed and forgotten, and 
forms that had mingled in many a social scene and contributed 



202 HISTORICAL AND 

to its joy, had fallen under Death's cold, palsying touch ; all lay 
concealed beneath earth's teeming surface ; and, in accordance 
with the Divine declaration, were strangely commingling with its 
dust. 

War, pestilence, storm, flood, and fire had done their work. of 
desolation. Norfolk had shared largely in the calamities of 
the Revolution. Once in ruins, she had, by a noble exertion, 
arisen again, and with increasing strength and beauty, had 
already taken a respectable stand among the towns of the At- 
lantic coast. Many a severe blow had been levelled at the 
prosperity of the old borough ; but all seemed willing, on this 
auspicious centennial day, to acknowledge that she had right 
bravely and successfully contended with every difficulty, and, 
agreeably to the views and declarations of Jefferson and others, 
was now surely, though slowly, rising in the scale of commercial 
importance. 

These and other considerations were duly regarded, and the 
authorities and citizens, generally, very appropriately determined 
that the hundredth anniversary should not pass without a suit- 
able celebration, and the necessary arrangements were accord- 
ingly made for the occasion. 

At sunrise, there was a salute of twenty-six guns, and the bells 
rang for service in the churches ; whither many of the inhabi- 
tants repaired, and most properly commenced the day with the 
exercises of prayer, thanksgiving, and praise. At half-past 
eight o'clock, in front of the old Town Hall, a grand civic pro- 
cession was formed, in which were the mayor, aldermen, and 
other officers of the corporation ; the clergy, the different com- 
panies and associations ; the schools, and a very large number 
of the citizens. There was a military parade at the same hour; 
and the volunteer companies joined the general gathering at the 
Court-House. The procession was a very large one for the size 
of the town. Captain John Capron was chosen as marshal, and 
he manifested very commendable activity and spirit on the occa- 
sion. By the assistance of his aids, he succeeded in preserving 
excellent order. William Maxwell, Esq.,* a distinguished lawyer, 
had been judiciously chosen as the orator of the day. 
* Now residing in Richmond, and editor of the Virginia Historical Register. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES., 203 

The procession marclicd through the principal streets ; martial 
music cheered the hearts of the moving, animated mass ; the 
stores were closed; very many visiters to the town united with 
the procession and thronged the streets ; the sun shone brightly 
and the air was balmy ; " children and sires," people of all ages 
and classes, were gathered in large groups, and on every thorough- 
fare through which the procession passed, in the doors, windows, 
and piazzas, sparkling eyes, and bright and cheerful smiles, and 
looks of beauty and words of love, added an irresistible charm to 
the occasion. 

The venerable Thomas Newton, Recorder, acted as standard- 
bearer : on one side of whom walked Wm. W. Lamb, Esq., De- 
puty-Sergeant, bearing the "beautiful and bright," though 
ancient, silver ??mce* of the corporation, and on the other, John 
Williams, Esq., Clerk of the Court, carried the original charter, 
with its ancient signet. The procession, after quite a long march, 
halted at the new Presbyterian Church, then nearly completed, 
which was soon most densely crowded ; hundreds, of course, 
failing to obtain seats or even an entrance within the walls of 
the building. An appropriate and fervent prayer was offered ; 
after which, the talented and eloquent orator arose, and, in his 
peculiarly happy style, delivered an address, which was acknow- 
ledged to be exceedingly appropriate to the occasion. 

His manner was calm and dignified. He had, it is believed, 
no notes to refer to ; his memory required no help, no prompt- 
ing. There were but few studied periods, and not the least 
affected attempt at display. Indeed, the speaker was a man of 
too much experience, taste, and judgment, to essay to edify his 
hearers with a mere flourish of words at such a time. His 
address appeared to reach the hearts of his auditors ; and while 
there was not a manifestation even of the mental effort that some 
had expected, yet, all appeared to be greatly pleased. The 
orator proceeded with a deliberation and self-possession that 

* The viace was presented to the corporation of Norfolk by Robert Dinwiddle, 
Esq., Lieutenant-Governor of Virginia in 1753. It weighs several pounds, and 
is a beautiful piece of work. It was formerly carried before the mayor on 
going to court, and in all public processions. 



204 HISTORICAL AND 

relieved, at the outset, tlie minds of his auditors of all unpleasant 
suspense as to the result. 

" lie touched eloquently upon the old inhabitants of the 
borough, whose descendants had come up that day to commemo- 
rate their work, while their own worth was such as to entitle 
them to the grateful remembrance of those who will succeed 
them on the stage of life. 

" What added peculiar interest to this part of his address was 
the circumstance, that the grave-yard, where nearly all the 
charter-men and our early inhabitants were buried, was in front 
of the building and of the orator Avhile speaking. He dwelt 
with great effect upon the Stamp Act, and upon the proceedings 
of the Norfolk Sons of Liberty, who protested against that mea- 
sure ; and he took occasion to pay a glowing tribute to the 
memory of Patrick Henry, for his exertions in the House of 
Burgesses on that occasion. 

" He discoursed most happily upon the American Revolution ; 
and when he came to the acknowledgment of the guardian care 
of the Deity for so many years over our fathers and ourselves — 
he was superlatively grand."'^ 

* A talented writer, in a description of Mr. Maxwell, written in 1827, remarks 
as follows: "The principal characteristic of his eloquence is imagination, 
chaste, sparkling, and luxuriant. It fills the mind with kindling delight and 
increasing rapture ; and the impressions left with the hearer are those which 
Longinus describes as the criterion of true eloquence ; a general and vivid 
feeling of delight ; and an absolute inability to point out the immediate parts 
of the oration which produced it. In conducting a cause, he often reasons with 
great ability, but his reasoning is not a chain of dry sophisms and lifeless logic ; 
every step of the demonstration is lightened by flashes of fancy so bright and 
beautiful, as to show in the strongest colours, and in the fullest light, the 
forms they were designed to illumine. On some occasions his whole heart 
seems to liqucsce, and be poured forth in the streams of eloquence that flow un- 
ceasingly from his lips ; while his hearers catch the feeling with the rapidity 
of the electric fluid, and believe, as they retire, that they have felt almost all 
that eloquence can make men feel. This feeling he hath wrought alike on the 
learned and illiterate, the nobly great and meanly low, the enemy and the 

friend. 

* -x- * % * -x- 

" He is a master magician over certain classes of feeling. He pleases and 
enraptures, but never astonishes his audience. I have seen a numerous audi- 
tory now held in silent rapture by his eloquence, and I have seen it again 
thrown into a universal titter by his resistless ridicule." 



DESCllIPTIVE SKETCHES. 205 

The folloAving stanzas, -which were composed for the occasion, 
were sunfi- with fine effect at the conclusion of the exercises in 
the church : 

*' God of our fathers, hear us now, 
As in thine earthly courts we bow ; 
Accept our thanks for mercies past, 
And blessings brightening to the last. 

" Of old, beneath these smiling skies, 
Thou bad'st our beauteous borough rise ; 
And, fostered by thy guardian care, 
The scion grew and flourished fair. 

"0, be it Lord, thy gracious will. 
And it shall flourish fairer still ; 
And children's children in their days. 
As we do now, shall sing thy praise." 

In the afternoon, there was a grand aquatic excursion, com- 
manded by Captain Jacob Vickery, aided by Captains James 
Connick and Thomas Ivey. They procured a number of beau- 
tiful barges, &c., of different shapes and sizes — 

" The long boat, the jolly boat. 
The pinnace, and the yawl ; 
The skifl", and the sailing-boat. 
The fishing-boat and all." 

These were soon filled with ladies and gentlemen, sweethearts 
and beaux, boys and girls, the gay and the beautiful, the loved 
and the loving, — all as cheerful as they could be made by agree- 
able company, handsome scenery, and a bright sun, whose golden 
rays were reflected by the "breeze-ridden ripples" that danced 
merrily along to the shore, while the soul-thrilling music from 
the majestic war-vessels in the harbour floated upon the balmy 
air of that 

" Eve of Autumn's holiest mood." 

This long line of crowded boats, as they proceeded down the 
river, presented an exceedingly novel and imposing scene, and, 
commanded by those gallant men of the sea, who had often suc- 
cessfully crossed the agitated bosom of old Ocean, they returned 



206 HISTORICAL AND 

•with their invaluable freight without loss or accident to mar the 
festivity of the interesting occasion. 

At eight o'clock, a hundred rockets soared and exploded over 
the lively old borough ; the closing hour of whose first centesi- 
mal anniversary was cheered by a delightful instrumental sere- 
nade. 

Long will the pleasing occurrences of that day be remembered 
by many now living. But who, of those that witnessed the first, 
will be here to mingle in the moving crowd, and mark the in- 
teresting circumstances that may attend the second centenary of 
the charter ? All, who lived then, Avill probably be gone to their 
eternal destiny, and others will have risen up to fill their places, 
and perform the complicated task of life ; other forms, other 
faces, and other minds, will be here ; and they will think of the 
few whose memory time will fail to obliterate ; but all, of 
"every nation, every tongue," will be gathered, recognised, and 
identified, at the last great day of accounts. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

1836—1840. 

Presbyterian Church — New Organization — Ministers — Services — Membership — 
Prices Current— Fire — Distinguished Visiter from France — Pleasing Incident 
— French's Hotel — Important Commercial Era — Unwise Legislation — Lieu- 
tenant Maury's Statement — Ocean Steam Navigation — What Norfolk might 
have Done — Real Estate — Exploring Squadron — Commercial Convention — 
Common Council — Destructive Fire — Explosion — Fire in Portsmouth — Loss 
of Life — Nuisance Remoyed — Public Square — Buildings — Avon Theatre — 
City Prison— Norfolk Academy — C. Hall, Esq. — Academy Square — Character 
of the Institution — The Norfolk and Portsmouth Herald. 

October. The New Presbyterian Church was completed this 
month. That large and commodious house of worship is situated 
nearly opposite St. Paul's Church, being on the east side of 
Church Street, a few feet south of the western terminus of Holt. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 207 

Street. A tall and handsome cupola, or dome, with a gilt ball of 
several feet in diameter placed over the apex, was subsequently 
added to the building, greatly improving its external appearance. 

On Saturday afternoon, November 19th, the church was organ- 
ized, and the members registered ; and on the following day — 
Sunday, the 20th — the house was dedicated, by Rev. Dr. Wm. 
S. Plumer. The membership is numerous, highly respectable, 
and devout. This church has been for several years past, blessed 
with zealous and eloquent ministers, among whom were Rev. 
Messrs. Cassells and Anderson. Rev. George D. Armstrong, 
an able and zealous minister, was elected, in the spring of 1851, 
to fill the vacancy occasioned by the removal of JMr. Anderson 
to St. Louis. 

The good order in which the house is kept, the respectful atten- 
tion to the accustomed ordinances of worship, the singing, the music 
of a fine-toned organ — these, with the impressive appeals from the 
pulpit, have long rendered this church an attractive place of re- 
sort for religious worship, especially on the holy Sabbath. These 
remarks are only in strict accordance with the public sentiment. 
Another observable feature in this collective body of Christians 
may not be inappropriately alluded to here. The Presbyterians 
of Norfolk are remarkably united as a church ; the members 
appearing truly endeared to one another ; and while there is 
also manifested a liberality of feeling and sentiment with regard 
to other Christians, each member appears to take a special in- 
terest in the welfare of his brother or sister in Christ. This is 
surely a commendable trait in any religious association. But it 
is no more nor less than a Christian duty, enjoined, not only by 
the sacred obligations of brotherhood, but by the holy oracles of 
Divine truth. Nor are these remarks intended as the least pos- 
sible reflection upon any of the other esteemed associations of 
Christians, whose piety and prayers have doubtless assisted in 
securing the blessings of Providence upon the place, and per- 
haps averted many a calamity, or tended to lessen the force and 
severity of the misfortunes with which the town has occasionally 
been visited. 

The following are some of the prices current in the Norfolk 



208 HISTORICAL AND 

market at this period : pork, hog round, 10 to 12 cents per lb. ; 
beef, 10 cents; mutton and veal, 10 to 12 cents; bacon hams, 
20 cents ; turkeys, in demand, ^1 to $1 25 ; meal, $1 ; fire- 
wood, $3 to $5. 

March, 1837. A fire broke out at night on the east side of 
Market Square, near Main Street, and six or eight large brick 
buildings were consumed, including a fine lofty edifice at the 
corner, then known as Reilly's. The weather being very cold, 
the engines were worked with difficulty, and great efforts were 
required to arrest the progress of the flames. The vacuum 
caused by this destructive fire, by which several persons sus- 
tained considerable loss in goods, furniture, &c., is now filled by 
Newton's beautiful row, extending south from the east corner of 
Main Street and Market Square. 

On the 19th of April, Norfolk was visited by a distinguished 
stranger, who has since made no little noise in the world, as 
the head of the great nation over which he now presides with an 
ability that even his friends hardly expected. Le Prince Napoleon, 
Louis Bonaparte, then an unfortunate exile ; now Louis Napoleon 
Bonaparte, Emperor of France, arrived with his suite on this day, 
in the French frigate L'Andromede, which was accompanied by 
the Sirene. The Prince was well entertained, during his short 
stay in the borough, and very appropriately and politely mani- 
fested and expressed his grateful sense of the attentions which he 
received. He was a fine-looking man ; erect, dignified, and manly 
in his person, without possessing, however, as much resemblance, 
in his features, of his illustrious uncle, as some of his relatives ; 
but in the shape of his head, his shoulders, and his chest, bear- 
ing, as is asserted by those who saw and noticed him well, and 
who were capable of judging, a striking likeness of the great and 
powerful Emperor Napoleon. 

There was one incident of interest, and worthy of note, which 
took place on the eve of his departure hence in the steamer 
Kentucky for Baltimore. He noticed a small ornament of gold, 
a striking resemblance of the great French conqueror, in a 
standing attitude, which was worn by a young relative of one of 
our most respected merchants, who accompanied the noble 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 209 

Frenchman to Portsmouth. lie was much pleased, and ex- 
pressed his satisfaction Avith considerable energy, on finding that 
the memory of his world-renowned relative was thus honoured 
across the waters, and on being informed that there Avcre many 
here who showed, in a similar way, their regard for the illus- 
trious dead, and who cherished the recollection of the extraordi- 
nary and wonderful deeds of the eventful life of him whom God 
raised up to " break down despotic governments, and humble the 
pride of kings." 

The day on which the Prince arrived, French's Hotel, now the 
National, was opened ; and it is remarkable that this distin- 
guished person and suite were the first guests received and en- 
tertained in that large and commodious establishment. 

The National Hotel is the largest in the place, and is well 
adapted to the accommodation of travellers, or permanent board- 
ers. The building covers an area of 7,065 square feet, fronting 
152 feet 9 inches on Church Street, and 54 feet on Main Street, 
standing at the southeast corner of those two thoroughfares. 
It is five stories high, being the highest house in the city, and 
contains 84 rooms, including 13 sitting rooms and parlours. 
There are several spacious passages, and seventy-five fireplaces. 
At the principal entrance, on Main Street, there is a plain 
Ionic portico, supported by two columns 15|^ feet high. The 
principal dining-room is 68 feet long, and 27 feet wide. The 
cistern connected Avitli the building contains 12,500 gallons. 
The exterior walls are well stuccoed, and painted a dark brown, 
darker even than the dull, frowning Quincy granite colour first 
adopted. A coat or two of white, or of some light colour, 
would have a much more pleasing effect. 

A hotel, upon a more extensive plan, is greatly needed in this 
city, and the erection of one is now under consideration. 

This was certainly a most important, or, perhaps, we should 
say unfortunate, era in the commercial history of our city, and, 
in fact, of our State. The reader will see, by the following 
statement, how much Norfolk has lost by injudicious legislation, 
in one instance alone. Do not all who feel an interest in the 
welfare of the State, and especially of Norfolk, deprecate, with 

14 



210 HISTORICAL AND 

feelings of mortification and regret, the unwise policy pursued 
by our law-makers in former years ? 

" In 1837, commenced the era of Ocean Steam Navigation, 
though, twenty years before, the South had sent out an avant 
courier from Georgia. The South, however, rested content Avith 
the honour of being the first to stride across the Atlantic under 
steam. For though, at that very time, various conventions were 
held at the South, binding the merchants of the South, like the 
A^\ oath Neptune administers to sailors crossing the line, 'never to 
' kiss the maid when they can kiss the mistress, unless they like 
the maid best,' the South stood still ; while Great Britain, by 
means of the ' Sirius,' the ' Liverpool,' and the ' Great Western,' 
actually and practically demonstrated the great problem of Ocean 
Steam Navigation. 

" Still another opportunity was presented to the South, of en- 
terino- upon the great race for commercial supremacy and inde- 
pendence, but only to be neglected. France was looking for a 
port in the United States, from which to establish an opposition 
line ; and it was proposed that the South should take stock, if 
France would select Norfolk as the terminus of the line. Ap- 
4_ plication was made to the legislature of Virginia to grant only a 
charter for that purpose, but they refused to grant it ; and, so it 
was established at New York, but it was soon abandoned. If 
the charter had been granted, Norfolk would, at this day, have 
been the centre of steam navigation for the United States. The 
lines to the Isthmus would have belonged to Norfolk, and pro- 
bably, the lines to Havre and Bremen. But Boston got the line 
of steamers, sent its ships to Liverpool, and recovered all the 
trade, and more, too, than it had when the steamers first began 
to ply. 

" New York, for ten years, looked quietly on, feeling the way 
with English capital, as Norfolk might have done with France, 
until she got the federal government committed for many mil- 
lions of her steam-ship enterprise ; and then she launched her 
ocean steamers, and now she leads the world in that navigation." 
1838. Value of the houses in the city at this time, $2,188,625 ; 
and, $2,704,430. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 211 

August 18. The Exploring Squadron, in command of Lieute- 
nant Wilkes, sailed from this port. 

November 12. On this day a commercial convention was held 
in Norfolk. There was a large attendance of able and talented 
delegates, from different sections of our State and of North 
Carolina. The meetings were held in tKe Methodist Church, 
and the session continued for four days. Governor, now ex- 
President, Tyler, presided with much dignity. Resolutions were 
passed concerning Direct Trade, Agriculture, and Internal Im- 
provements. Able reports were presented on these and other 
interesting subjects. The debates were animated and entertain- 
ing, and called together a large assemblage of both ladies and 
gentlemen. The speakers on the occasion were, Messrs. Tyler, 
Venable, Hubard, James, Segar, Millson, French, Cunningham, 
Tabb, Southgate, Hayne, M'Farlaine, Soutter, Woodis, Allyn, &c. 

1839. " On the 14th of February of this year, an act was 
passed, increasing (nominally only) the number of councilmen 
to twenty-six, but requiring them still to be 'fit and able men,' 
and to be elected in pursuance of the act of 181G. These 
twenty-six, at their first meeting on the 28th of June, were to 
elect, from their own body, a recorder and eight aldermen, for 
one year ; that being done, the remaining seventeen persons con- 
stituted the Common Council." 

March 14. A destructive fire occurred on Newton's Wharf. 
It broke out in the auction store of Messrs. Nash & Co., which, 
with several other warehouses, and a large amount of merchan- 
dise, was consumed ; one or two kegs of powder exploded, causing 
much fright and scampering, but destroying no lives. 

April 3. Fire in Portsmouth, on High Street, nearly opposite 
the court-house. Several buildings destroyed, including a book 
store, tin factory, and the printing ofiice of the " Portsmouth 
Times," John T. Hill, editor. Mr. Godwin, a cabinet-maker, 
was killed by the falling of a wall. 

This year, the cove, which extended east from Bank Street 
nearly to the southern terminus of Cumberland Street, was filled 
up, enclosed, ornamented with shade trees, and denominated the 
"Public Square." 

This cove was, for many years, an eyesore to the inhabitants, 



212 HISTORICAL AND 

and was justly deemed a public nuisance. The malaria that 
arose therefrom, on a hot summer's day, at low tide, was not at 
all pleasant. View the spot now. That noble structure, the 
City Hall, standing upon its firm foundation, in the centre of the 
lot, which rises gradually from Bank, Williams, Cove, and Avon 
Streets, until it reaches an elevation of several feet above the 
level of those streets, and immediately over what Avas formerly 
the middle of the cove. The green turf, paved Avalks, substan- 
tial and ornamental railing, &c., all tend to form a very striking 
contrast to the unsightly bog of former days, and present an 
excellent example of the improving taste of the "city fathers." 
The Clerk's and Register's Offices, two neat (though rather 
small) fire-proof buildings, are located nearly in the rear of the 
City Hall. The site and foundation of Avon Theatre, which 
was erected this year (1839), and destroyed by fire in 1850, is 
on the east, or in the rear of the above public buildings. The 
lot was purchased by the Corporation as the site of the new City 
Prison, which was completed in 1852. " The exterior dimen- 
sions of this edifice are sixty-one by ninety-one feet; the main 
front wall is thirty-three feet high, including battlements ; but 
is surmounted by buttresses at each corner ; and in the centre 
by a tower forty feet high, in which the great city bell is to be 
hung. The style is the Gothic of the time of Queen Elizabeth, 
and shows ofi" the building as if it were of far higher dignity than 
that of a jail." The cells and other interior arrangements, are 
well calculated for the purposes intended. The thick granite 
walls, and heavy iron bars, hinges, bolts, &c., present an appear- 
ance of great strength, solidity, and security. Architect, Mr. 
John H. Sale. 

May 25, 1840. The corner stone of the Norfolk Military 
Academy was laid on this day with appropriate ceremonies. 
This is thought by many to be the handsomest building in the 
city. Those capable of judging, pronounce it to be " a perfect 
specimen of architectural beauty." It is of the Grecian Doric 
order, the model having been copied from the temple of Theseus 
at Athens. The length of the building is ninety-one feet, breadth 
forty-seven. There is a handsome portico at each end, with six 
symmetrical columns, fronting west on Catharine, and east on 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 213 

Cumberland Street. The walls are stuccoed in a very durable 
style. The plan was drawn by Mr. Walter, a celebrated archi- 
tect of Philadelphia, and the building was erected under the 
supervision of C. Hall, Esq., an intelligent and opulent book- 
seller of this city, which is indebted to his taste and enterprise 
for some of its finest improvements. The situation is most 
favourable. It stands in its pride in the centre of a beautiful 
green of about four hundred feet square, bounded west by 
Catharine, north by Charlotte, and east by Cumberland Street, 
and on the south by a line extending from the first to the last- 
named street. The ground rises regularly from the boundaries 
of the lot to the building, which adds considerably to its imposing 
appearance. This large and beautiful lot of land, the improve- 
ment of which has augmented the value of property in its vicinity, 
was set apart some years before the Revolution as a church 
glebe, and was intended for the parsonage of the clergyman who 
officiated in St. Paul's ; but after the Revolution it was assigned 
to the trustees of the Norfolk Academy. 

This institution of learning is well conducted, and stands de- 
servedly high in the estimation of the community, the best evi- 
dence of which is the liberal patronage which it enjoys. "A 
cheering demonstration -has been afforded by the annual exami- 
nations at the Academy of the efficient manner in which this 
institution continues to be conducted by its present able and 
indefatigable professors. The proficiency shown by the pupils 
under examination, in the several branches of Mathematics, 
Greek, Latin, French, English, Geography, Astronomy, and 
Chemistry, evinced their close application to study, and the judi- 
cious and skilful course of tuition pursued by their instructors. 
The specimens of composition are of a high order of merit. 
Under such successful auspices, we may confidently anticipate 
that this cherished institution will continue to prosper." 

August 13th. The Norfolk and Portsmouth Herald was, on 
this day, just forty-six years after the commencement of its pros- 
perous career, changed from a tri-weekly to a daily and tri-weekly 
publication, and we record with pleasure the fact, that the judi- 
cious proprietor found the experiment a successful one. 



214 HISTORICAL AND 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

1840—1844. 

Commercial Depression — Politics — Prices Current — Population — High Tides — 
Festivities — General Harrison — Fire — Hailstorm — Walters's Hotel — Judi- 
cious Management — Fire, and Loss of Life — Roman Catholic Church — Bap- 
tist Church in Portsmouth — Death of one of the Heroes of Craney Island — 
Death of an Old Citizen — Mayor Delany — Artesian Well, alias Market Square 
Pump — Cisterns — C. Bonsall, Esq. — Supply of Water from Deep Creek — 
Arrival of Henry Clay — Procession — Festivities — Speeches— Colonel Garnett 
— The Ladies — Joseph H. Robertson, Esq. — Governor Tazewell — Mr. Clay's 
Visit to Portsmouth— The Courier— Caterpillars. 

Business, at this period, was in a very depressed state ; and 
while politics was the all-absorbing topic of the day, the condition 
of the commerce of the place Avas but little better than it was 
during the embargo of 1808. Norfolk suifered, as she had 
before, and has since, from the deleterious eflfects of legislative 
restriction to the shipping interests. There were very few 
vessels in port. Produce was low : flour, ^4 25 ; corn, 35 cts. ; 
bacon, 8 cts.; firewood, $1 75; and staves, "below zero." 
Population of the borough, according to the census, 10,920 ; 
population of the county, whites, 11,280, slaves, 7,845, free 
coloured, 1,967 ; total, 21,092. 

During the month of November, the tides were unusually 
and unaccountably high ; the wind, at no time during their con- 
tinuance, blowing above a moderate breeze. 

Thursday night, November 19th. There was a brilliant illumi- 
nation, and a great festivity, on account of the Whig victory 
which had been gained in the election of the now lamented 
President Harrison. 

December 9th. Drummond's rope-walk destroyed by fire. 

December 17 th. Hail, from 3| to 4 J inches in circumference, 
fell in the afternoon of this day ; great destruction, of course, to 
window-glass, &c. 

January 1st, 1841. Walters's Hotel, now the " City Hotel," 



DESCllIPTIVE SKETCHES. 215 

■was this day opened by Bray B. Walters, Esr^. The judicious 
arrano-ements and active exertions of the gentlemanly and liberal- 
hearted proprietor have been crowned with success. This esta- 
blishment is, and well deserves to be, decidedly popular, with 
both residents and travellers. Tlie tables are well supplied 
with the various productions with which the Norfolk markets 
abound, while the numerous apartments and rooms of the house 
are kept in very neat and comfortable order. 

1842, June 2d. Twenty-five tenements destroyed by fire, on 
Little Water Street, Holt's and Woodside's Lanes ; boy killed 
by the falling of a wall. 

July 10th. The new Roman Catholic church was dedicated. 
It is a very handsome building, ninety-six feet long by fifty 
wide, of the Grecian order. The entrance is by three ascents 
of granite steps. There is a mitred recess for the altar ; and, 
in the basement, a commodious Sunday-school room. William 
Callis, architect and carpenter. The Rev. A. L. Hitselberger, 
a distinguished and very eloquent divine, is its pastor. 

July 17th. This is the date of the dedication of the new 
Baptist church in Portsmouth. It is a neat, handsome struc- 
ture, of seventy by fifty-five feet ; cost, $16,000. Rev. Thomas 
Hume is the able minister in charge. 

June 7th. Departed this life, Captain Arthur Emmerson, of 
Portsmouth, one of the noble heroes who engaged so unequally, 
and yet so successfully and triumphantly, with the British at 
Craney Island, in 1813. He was greatly respected and loved 
by all who knew his worth of character. His loss was deeply 
felt and sincerely deplored by his friends and fellow-citizens. 
He was for a number of years Clerk of the County Court, 
which ofiicc is now filled by his worthy son, Arthur Emmerson, 
Junior. 

July 24. Died on this day, Robert Soutter, Esq., merchant. 
He was a native of Scotland, but had resided in Norfolk for 
many years, having long been an extensive and prosperous dealer 
in foreign and domestic produce. This gentleman was greatly 
esteemed by a large portion of his fellow-citizens, for his devoted 
piety, his modest and unpretending demeanour, and incorruptible 
integrity, which great essential elements of character he had 



216 HISTORICAL AND 

borne throughout his career. A massive and truly beautiful 
granite monument, standing in the centre of a neatly enclosed 
lot in the new burial ground, marks his "resting-place." It is 
the largest and tallest within the limits of that solemn repository. 
On one side of the base is carved, the word Soutter, and on the 
opposite, '■'' Resurgimus.'" 

1843. March. Twelve buildings burned on Little Water 
Street. 

June 24. Wm. D. Delany, Esq., was on this day elected 
mayor of the borough, and received annually, until 1851, a large 
majority of the suflfragcs of the qualified voters. Of his faithful- 
ness as an officer during the lapse of eight years, the decided 
vote with which he was regularly honoured, even when opposed 
by gentlemen of acknowledged ability and merit, should be con- 
sidered the best evidence. 

During this month there was issued in Norfolk by the writer 
and G. W. Shields, Esq., one of the former editors of the Courier, 
a specimen number of a monthly publication, in pamphlet form, 
entitled the " Religious Visitor,'' which was to be devoted to 
moral, religious, and literary information. The number published, 
the object and plan of the work, were severally commended by 
the press, but the subscription list did not fully justify its con- 
tinuance. 

This year the pipes of the Artesian well in Market Square 
were sunk. 

It affords a supply, as far as it goes, of tolerably good water, 
although the name " Artesian well" is very improperly applied. 
Market Square Pump being much more appropriate. " An 
Artesian. well," says Dr. Buckland, " is a well that is always 
ove7~flowing, either from its natural source, or from an artificial 
tube ; and when the overflowing ceases, it is no longer an 
Artesian well." This pump has nevertheless proved to be a 
most useful and necessary addition to the means of obtaining 
water. Much the larger portion of the regular supply is now 
obtained from cisterns. These are brick reservoirs built below 
the surface of the earth, and supplied by means of pipes leading 
from the gutters at the eaves of the houses. The cisterns con- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 217 

tain from one or two thousand to fifty thousand gallons, and the 
water is generally pleasant to the taste, cool, and healthful. 

The late C. Bonsai, Esq., is said to have had the first cistern 
sunk in Norfolk. It was on his lot on Main Street, head of 
Market Square. 

" Several plans to furnish the city with a plentiful supply of 
water, have been suggested. One contemplates the erection of 
a tower near the basin of Deep Creek, from which the water 
would be conveyed by means of iron pipes, passing the southern 
branch of Elizabeth River above the mouth of Deep Creek, thence 
in direct line to the Eastern Branch bridge, under which they 
would pass to a distributing reservoir to be located on some con- 
venient site in Norfolk. 

" Another plan is to have an iron steam water boat, capable of 
carrying fifteen hundred barrels of water, which might be forced 
by means of steam pumps from the vessel into the distributing 
reservoir. United States vessels, the Navy Yard, and the com- 
mercial marine could also be supplied by this means." 

1844, April 24. On this day, Hon. Henry Clay arrived in the 
city ; and on the following day he was received in due form, as 
the guest of the citizens of all parties. 

A procession was formed on Main Street (at the head of Mar- 
ket Square), in the following order: 

Music. 
Military. 

Consisting of the Light Artillery Blues, Captain R. W. Bow- 
den ; Junior Volunteers, Captain F. F. Ferguson ; Norfolk 
Riflemen, Captain Dunstan ; and Virginia Guards, Captain Lloyd 
W. Williams. 

Corporate Authorities. 

Committee of Reception. 

Citizens and Strangers generally. 

The whole forming a long extended line. 

The procession moved up Catharine Street to the residence of 
Colonel Myers (western intersection of Catharine and Free- 
mason Streets), where Mr. Clay was received in an elegant 
barouche, and brought into the line of the procession, which pro- 
ceeded along Freemason to Granby Street, down that street to 



218 HISTORICAL AND 

Main, and through Main till it came to Church Street, and turn- 
ing up Church Street passed through Cove, Cumberland, Wolfe, 
and Catharine Streets, till it came again into Main Street, and 
thence passed up Talbot Street to Ashland Hall, where it halted 
amid the roar of a salute of twenty-six guns from the field-pieces 
of the Norfolk Light Artillery Blues. 

At the site on the north side of Ashland Hall (now occupied 
by an engine house, and the Clerk's and Register's offices, and 
a portion of the City Hall Square), a spacious arbour was erected, 
and a collation spread, at the upper end of which a platform was 
raised for Mr. Clay, from which he addressed the assembled mul- 
titude. 

" The arbour occupied a space of seventy by one hundred and 
forty feet, and was formed of a covering of sails supported by 
three rows of pillars. Five rows of tables, nearly the entire 
length of the arbour, were set, each table adapted to accommo- 
date two hundred persons in single file ; and upon the social 
system of fire and fall back, thrice that number were enabled 
to partake of the viands, which were abundantly provided for on 
the occasion. The interior of the arbour was decorated with 
national flags, evergreens, and flowers fresh from the forest, in a 
style highly creditable to the taste and industry of those who 
had the arrangement of this part of the fete, and attracted the 
admiration of all. At the upper end of the arbour, and imme- 
diately under two of the windows of the Hall, was the platform, 
upon which Mr. Clay was to receive his welcome from the Pre- 
sident of the day, Colonel Wm. Garnett. The Hall was also 
handsomely decorated, and the letters, Welcome, Henry 
Clay, two feet in length, were braided against the walls in 
leaves of laurel ; and the spacious room (forty by eighty feet) 
was devoted exclusively to the accommodation of the ladies, of 
whom there were at least one thousand within its walls. They 
were enabled to see and hear Mr. Clay through the windows 
near which he spoke, the sashes of which had been taken out for 
that purpose. 

Mr. C. was welcomed by Colonel Wm. Garnett, in behalf of 
the people, in a concise and beautiful address. Mr. Clay's re- 
ply was most graceful and powerful, " enchaining and enchant- 
ing the minds of his audience by a flow of forensic eloquence 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 219 

and irresistible argument. The speech, as it was delivered, 
awakened a lively feeling of interest and pleasure, which was 
manifested by frequent and enthusiastic plaudits from the audi- 
ence. 

" At the conclusion, Mr. Clay, playfully, and in an under tone, 
observed to those who stood near the platform — 'Now I will 
leave you Philistines, and pay my more willing respects to the 
ladies.' So saying, he turned and entered the Hall. 

" At two O'clock he returned to the arbour, attended by the 
committee of reception, and the whole company, numbering some 
three or four thousand, took their places at the tables. 

" Among the toasts, the folloAving was prepared by a spirited 
and beautiful tribute to the illustrious individual who was the 
subject of it, in a short address delivered by Joseph H. Robert- 
son, Esq., in his own graceful and eloquent manner, during 
which the sage, it is said, shed tears : 

"'Our distinguished guest, Henry Clay; his services in de- 
fence of our national honour, in the vindication of the rights of 
man, and his patriotic efforts during the most alarming domestic 
dissensions, entitle him to the gratitude of the American people.' 

" To which Mr. Clay made a feeling and happy response. 

"At three o'clock Mr. Clay retired from the arbour, and in the 
interval of the time appointed for the call of the Portsmouth 
Committee (five o'clock), visited Governor Tazewell, who had 
made him a friendly call on the day of his arrival. It is grati- 
fying to notice this circumstance, as showing that great and 
liberal minds are incapable of being influenced by party spirit to 
stifle the kinder suggestions of social feeling. 

" At five o'clock, Mr. Clay was waited on by a committee from 
Portsmouth, by whom he was escorted to the residence of Cap- 
tain Samuel Watts, and during the evening he was introduced to 
a large number of ladies, for whose reception the hospitable 
mansion of Captain Watts was thrown open for that purpose."* 

Many joyous and spirit-stirring incidents marked his recep- 
tion by the citizens of the sister town. 

* Captain Watts, of Portsmouth, has very ably represented Norfolk County 
in the Legislature. He was the Whig candidate for the office of Lieutenant 
Governor, in 1850. He is justly regarded as a strong man by his party, and 
stands deservedly high in the estimation of the community as an orator and 



220 HISTORICAL AND 

The Evening Courier, a spirited penny paper, commenced its 
course this year, William C. Shields, Esq. (formerly of the Bea- 
con), editor and proprietor. The Courier was subsequently pub- 
lished by Messrs. G. W. & J. E. Shields, sons of the former 
editor. On the 13th of January, 1851, the name was changed 
to the "Daily Evening Courier." This useful paper was ori- 
ginally neutral in politics, but for several years advocated, with 
considerable ability and spirit. Whig men and measures. 

It was announced in December, 1852, that from the first of 
January following, this paper would resume its neutrality in 
politics ; be printed by Mr. James H. Finch, and edited by Mr. 
R. J. Keeling. 

The summer of this year was noted for immense numbers of 
caterpillars, which destroyed the foliage of the shade and fruit 
trees, and the vegetables. In many parts of the town and 
vicinity, these insects were unusually abundant and exceedingly 
annoying. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

1845—1847. 

Norfolk becomes a City — Objections — Improvement — Effect of a Name — Con- 
gratulations of the Petersburg Intelligencer — Lynnhaven Oysters — Concho- 
logy, Iclithyology, &c. — Richmond Times and Compiler — Kind Remarks — 
Sources of Trosperity — Amendments to the Charter — Evidences of Advance- 
ment — Court-IIouse in Portsmouth — Methodist Protestant Church Burned 
— Animal Magnetism— Professor De Bonneville — Severe Storm — Extraordi- 
nary Tide — Destruction of Property — Exciting Scene — Loss of Property on 
the Coast— Lame Boy, Dog, and Cat— Loss of Life — Distressing Scene — 
Sabbath-School Celebration— Interesting Sight— The Ladies — Addresses- 
Temperance Reformation— John B. Gough— Remarks — Mexican AVar — 
Volunteers— Captain John P. Young — Captain 0. E. Edwards. 

1845, February 13th. At this date, Norfolk, by Act of As- 
sembly, became a City, and various alterations were made in the 

enlightened politician. His speeches are generally characterized by sound 
argument, superior oratorical skill and energy, and the evidences of extensive 
reading, careful investigation, and uncommon mental capacity. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 221 

charter. The change, though strangely and strenuously objected 
to by some of the citizens, was certainly a judicious one. It ap- 
peared to have a good effect upon the people and the affairs of 
the place generally. 

Mr. Jefferson predicted, it is said, that Norfolk would com- 
mence a career of prosperity and importance about this period of 
its history, and quite sure it is that the business of the place and 
the general aspect of affairs all seemed to improve ; and what- 
ever other causes may be assigned for the improvement, unex- 
pected as it was by many, it was believed that the change in the 
appellation of the place had no inconsiderable effect both at home 
and abroad. 

" Some have said, What is in a Name ? — most potent plastic influence : 
A name is a word of character, and repetition stablishetli the fact. 
* * * * -:s- -;:- * * * 

And greatest is the power of a name, when its power is least suspected." 

The following pleasant remarks appeared in the Herald, shortly 
after the passing of the legislative act above mentioned : 

" We recognise the obeisance of our friend of the Petersburg 
Intelligencer on the occasion of our promotion to a higher rate 
(as he deems it), by the legislative act which has made us the 
' citizen of a city ;' and if he behaves himself, we promise him 
the first lieutenancy of our ship. It is strange that this incorri- 
gible wag can never turn his thoughts towards Norfolk without 
letting them run upon oysters. From congratulations and good 
wishes on the event of our said promotion, he whisks off to talk 
to us about oysters : — 

" *• By the by. Commodore (quoth he), speaking of turtles — 
were those 'Lynnhaven pets,' that were sent to Dix at Baltimore, 
really seven inches long? We cannot believe in such oysters 
until we see them, — and we have no small curiosity about the 
matter. Not that Ave care to eat them. Our curiosity is en- 
tirely scientific, for we have lately been studying a treatise on 
Concliology and Ichthyology, with which Colonel Swan furnished 
us. If we had a bushel or two, we should deliver a highly 
popular lecture on them.' 

" ' Not that we care to eat them.' — Oh no ! The cause of science 



222 HISTORICAL AND 

is much more to the taste of our philosophic friend of the Intel- 
ligencer than a Lynnhaven oyster, of course ! Really he has 
such a persuasive way with him, that (as we have before had 
occasion to remark), like Goldsmith's author, he can ' wheedle 
milk from a mouse ;' but we very much doubt whether he can 
tickle us into opening oysters for him of the length he speaks of ! 
Such rarities never cross our path ; though we are told they are 
sometimes to be met with ; and ' mine host' Mr. Walters, who 
knows whom to speak to for the best of everything in the eating 
line, is the only man who could command such ' spirits from the 
vasty deep,' where these seven-inchers are said to inhabit. 

" We are glad to see the jocularity of the Intelligencer taken 
up and treated in the amiable vein, and with a judicious disposi- 
tion to harmonise all rival feelings between the three principal 
towns of the State, by its neighbour, the Richmond Times and 
Compiler, in the following article : 

" ' The old Borough of Norfolk has been declared by legisla- 
tive act to be a ' city,' and our neighbour of the Petersburg In- 
telligencer seizes the opportunity to doft' his beaver to the worthy 
editor of the Herald, and tender him his best wishes upon this 
accession of new honours. This is all right and neighbourly, 
and we join our neighbour in making a most respectful bow to 
our friends of the Norfolk press and their fellow-citizens, and 
tender them our most sincere good wishes for their prosperity, 
individually and collectively. May the city of Norfolk grow 
rapidly, and become a great, a very great city. 

" ' But let us say, in passing, to our friends down there, that 
the policy of Virginia must be stimulated considerably to make 
their city what it ought to be, and they ought to help to impart 
this added energy. They must co-operate with us in effecting a 
communication with western and southwestern Virginia. Nor- 
folk now has command of the Dismal Swamp Canal and the 
Roanoke River ; and the only remaining source from which she 
can hope for prosperity, is from the trade to be attracted to 
James River by this communication with the West. When that 
communication is effected, and the connexion between the canal 
and tidewater here made, she Avill participate with this city in 
the advantages of the trade thereby acquired. We feel warmly 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 223 

for her welfare. We ardently desire to see Norfolk one of the 
greatest maritime cities of the Union. Whether this gratifica- 
tion is in store for us, we know not. But this we do know, that 
if she does not become what we desire to see her through the 
trade to be conveyed to her wharves from the James River, she 
cannot by that from other sources. Let her, therefore, join with 
us in advancing the common interest of Virginia, and of Nor- 
folk and Richmond. Let her discard her misgivings, and let her 
energies be found in co-operation to efiect the grand object which 
all the people of Virginia should have so much at heart.' " 

The following are among the provisions in the amendments to 
the Charter : 

The rights, privileges, &c., formerly vested in the Common 
Council, to " be vested in two bodies, to wit : the Select Council 
and the Common Council." 

Thirty-seven freeholders to be elected triennially for the Coun- 
cils, the Recorder, and Aldermen. 

The officers of the city to be elected annually In general meet- 
ing of the two Councils. 

The Recorder and eight Aldermen to be chosen triennially 
from the thirty-seven persons elected, and with the Mayor, to 
constitute the Court. 

In the intervening years, twenty-eight citizens to be elected 
for Councilmen. 

The twenty-eight Councilmen to elect by ballot, annually, 
eleven of their number for the Select Council ; the remaining 
seventeen to constitute the Common Council. 

Each body to have a president, vice-president, and clerk. 

All ordinances to originate in the Common Council; and, 
having passed that body, to be sent to the Select Council for 
concurrence or amendment. Amendments to be reported to the 
former, and, in case of disagreement, the two bodies to assemble 
together, elect a president pro tern., and the proposed measure to 
be decided by two-thirds of the members composing the united 
bodies. 

A majority of the members of each body to constitute a quorum, 
whether acting separately or in general meeting. 



224 HISTORICAL AND 

The court to appoint only the clerk of the court, the prose- 
cuting attorney, and the constables. 

The power over the public property of the corporation, such 
as lands, tenements, streets, wharves, &c., transferred from the 
court to the councils. 

Sergeant to be elected triennially, on the 24th June, by a 
plurality of the qualified voters. 

The act passed February 13th, 1845, was amended March 
20th, 1850, and among other provisions is one, making it lawful 
for the councils to establish, at their discretion, free schools 
within the city, and for that purpose build school- houses, and 
annually assess and levy upon the property and inhabitants of 
the city to pay for the same. 

Of the advancement of the " city" from this time, the increase 
in real estate to the amount of $122,048, for the year ending 
1st February, 1846, is conclusive evidence, as also the increase 
of tonnage entered and cleared at the custom-house of more than 
100 per cent. 

The new court-house for Norfolk County, located in Ports- 
mouth, Avas commenced in 1845. 

The site chosen for it is the lot on which the old clerk's oiEce 
andjail formerly stood. The building presents a front of seventy- 
eight feet on High Street, and fifty-seven on Court Street ; a 
conspicuous situation, in which it is almost compelled to meet 
the eye of every stranger who visits Portsmouth. The exterior 
plan, which was designed by Mr. William R. Singleton, of St. 
Louis, Mo. (but a native of Portsmouth), is in fine proportion 
and classic taste. The front on High Street has a projecting 
portico, elevated fourteen feet from the ground, of four Doric 
columns, three feet in diameter at the base ; after the model of 
the temple of Jupiter Stator. The Court Street front presents 
a recess portico entablature, supported by two columns, similar to 
the portico on High Street. The roof is surmounted by a hand- 
some cupola, supported by eight columns of the Ionic order.* 

For the interior, the committee adopted the plan of Mr. Wil- 
loughby G. Butler, of Portsmouth. The main floor is elevated 

* This has been removed. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 225 

fourteen feet above the ground, tlic basement beneath being 
divided into rooms for elections, on the right of the entrance 
from High Street, and for clerk's offices on the left — the latter 
being entirely fire-proof. The principal floor contains the court 
room, fifty-seven by fifty-four feet; height of the ceiling twenty 
feet. In the rear of the court-room are two jury-rooms, each 
nine by twenty-four feet ; and two in front, one on each side of 
the vestibule, nine by seventeen feet. 

" The plan of the jail is exclusively Mr. Singleton's, and shows 
quite an ornamental front on High Street, while its interior 
arrangements arc designed to be all that could be devised for 
the security of the prisoners, and the health and cleanliness of 
their apartments. 

" The court-house of Norfolk County was at one time in the 
Borough; and from thence the seat of justice was removed to 
the town of Washington (called Ferry, or Washington Point). 
By an Act of the General Assembly, passed January 20, 1801, 
it was again removed and located in Portsmouth. The lot and 
buildings on Washington Point were vested in Wm. Wilson, 
Robert Thompson, Samuel Hatton, AVm. Godfrey, and Enos 
M'Coy, Esqs., as Commissioners, who were empowered to sell 
the same and apply the money arising therefrom to the building 
of the new court-house, which was finished in 1806, and was just 
forty years old when the present building took its place. 

1845. March 6th. On the evening of this day, the Methodist 
Protestant Church, on Fenchurch Street, formerly a theatre, 
took fire, and was destroyed. 

June. During this month, a very considerable excitement was 
produced among the inhabitants by Professor Debonneville, a 
celebrated lecturer on animal magnetism. His lectures and ex- 
periments drew great crowds, and were for several days the prin- 
cipal subject of conversation among many of the citizens, both 
male and female. 

Friday, February 27th, 1846. A snow-storm of almost unpre- 
cedented severity commenced on this day, the wind blowing a 
gale from the northeast. 

Saturday, 28th. The snow was several inches deep, and rain 
began to fall during the day, which continued until noon on 

15 



226 HISTORICAL AND 

Monday, March 2d, when the rain gave phice to hail, which 
fell rapidly, the wind continuing with unabated violence till 
midnight, when it increased to a terrific hurricane, which tore 
off the roofs of buildings, uprooted trees, and demolished fences. 
The tide soon rose to an extraordinary height. Never since 
1825 had it risen so high. Wide Water Street, and the streets, 
lanes, and wharves below, were completely inundated, and very 
large quantities of merchandise, such as sugar, salt, lime, &c., 
were destroyed. The loss of the merchants was estimated at 
$100,000. West Wide Water Street resembled a narrow river, 
with high perpendicular banks ; and the number of boats pass- 
ing through this and Commerce Street, Roanoke Square, &c., the 
bustle among the merchants, and the merry, free, and care-little 
laugh of the sable boatmen, now and then increased to a loud 
and joyful ha I ha! as some hapless passenger chanced to tumble 
overboard, in the cool and briny water; the howling of the storm, 
and the breaking of the waves against the walls, all united to 
present a scene of great novelty, activity, and confusion. The 
shipping in port sufiered considerably. Large piles of firewood 
and lumber Avere floated away. Drummond's Bridge was swept 
off, and also a large steam-mill in Portsmouth. 

From Cape Henry to Whale's Head, on the coast, the fences, 
and many of the out-houses, w^ere floated away. Nearly all 
the cattle and sheep, and immense numbers of hogs, and even 
some horses, were drowned, numbering in all, according to esti- 
mate, about 10,000 head, besides poultry in great quantities. 
Vessels were driven ashore, and farm-houses were unroofed and 
blown to pieces. One small tenement, which had been deserted 
by all its inmates, except a lame boy, a faithful dog, and a cat, 
having been removed by the tide, the roof and other portions 
were scattered upon the rolling surges, while the remainder of 
the building, with its affrighted occupants, who were fortunately 
provided with a ham of bacon, was driven furiously about by the 
wind. The hopeless trio nestled closely in a bed, exposed for 
twelve long hours to the violence of the pitiless storm ; but the 
frail ark of safety was snugly moored among the trees of the 
forest, many rods above the usual high-water mark, whence the 
wet and shivering creatures were taken, and properly cared for. 



DESCmPTIVE SKETCHES. 227 

On Nott's Island, in the neighbouring county of Currituck, 
the loss and damage were exceedingly severe. It was reported, 
and announced in some of the papers, that several families were 
swept away, besides immense numbers of cattle. 

On Tuesday, the wind ceased, and the swollen waters sub- 
sided, when it was truly distressing to behold the scenes of 
destruction caused by that memorable storm. 

July 4th. In addition to the usual exhibition of patriotic 
regard for the birthday of American liberty, there was a most 
interesting display made by the different Sabbath-schools of the 
city. 

xVt seven o'clock, the bells reminded the scholars and teachers 
that the hour was approaching at which they were to repair to 
their usual places of meeting. Thence, at about eight o'clock, 
the several schools — eight in number — under the direction of their 
respective superintendents, proceeded in regular order to the 
Academy lawn. Having met and united in one general gather- 
ing, the procession marched through some of the principal streets. 
At the head of each school there was carried a beautifully- 
painted banner, with an appropriate motto. 

It was a charming sight ; and the pleasing emotions which it 
excited were plainly betrayed in the countenances of the crowds 
of all ages who gazed upon it. The sun appeared occasion- 
ally from behind the fleecy clouds that obstructed his rays, 
(rendering the day unusually pleasant), and looked forth Avith 
peculiar brightness, as if well pleased with the holy and joyful 
scene. The children connected with the Orphan Asylum walked 
in front. 

In that large procession, numbering about one thousand chil- 
dren, of almost every age, from four to sixteen, what a diversity 
of talent and disposition ! The ladies connected with the schools 
were present, and walked in the procession, thus evincing their 
devotion to so noble an institution. It was an occasion calcu- 
lated to encourage the highest hopes of the Christian and philan- 
thropist for the well-being of the rising generation. Might not 
a great company of ministering angels have hovered in gladness 
over the cheering scene ? 

The schools having assembled in the Presbyterian Church, 



228 HISTORICAL AND 

appropriate addresses were delivered by Rev. Mr. Wadsworth, 
of the Methodist Church, to the children, and hj Rev. Mr. 
Caldwell, of the Episcopal Church, to the officers and teachers. 
The remarks of the reverend gentlemen were highly appropriate, 
and well calculated to inspire all present with an increased de- 
votion to, and interest in, a cause, upon which rest in a great 
measure the hopes of the country — a cause which has been so 
abundantly blessed by Heaven, and whose influences, for time 
and eternity, arc far beyond the limited stretch of the imagina- 
tion of man. 

During this and the following years, and, in fact, for several 
years antecedent to 184G, considerable excitement was produced 
in the minds of quite a large portion of the community by the 
Temperance Reformation. The reformed inebriate and talented 
lecturer, John B. Gough, and others, visited the city, and deli- 
vered addresses to large assemblages ; very many persons took 
the pledge of total abstinence from all intoxicating drinks as a 
beverage, and numbers of inebriates were apparently reformed. 

This, it must be admitted, is a useful and a good cause, and its 
tendency has, to a great extent, been advantageous and benefi- 
cial to the community. And yet it cannot be reasonably doubted, 
that some have exhibited too much fanaticism in their efforts, 
while much less real good has been accomplished in some in- 
stances than Avas expected. The seemingly reformed have, 
in many instances, returned to their cups ; and hundreds have 
paid too little regard to the obligations under which they have 
been placed by the pledge. The effect of the movement, how- 
ever, upon the rising generation, is considered highly beneficial 
and quite salutary. One unpleasant feature in the progress of 
this reformation is, that some apparently pious men, have been 
led by their devotion to its objects, to neglect their religious ob- 
ligations — to lessen their attention to the ordinances of the 
church and^ the means of grace. The true Christian will, gene- 
rally, be virtually all that any association, secondary to his 
church, can require of him ; and if he cannot attend to the less 
important, without neglecting the greater, it is decidedly unwise 
and improper to engage in the former ; hence, it is the opinion 
of some great and good men, who entertain the highest regard 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 229 

for this reformation, that it should be conducted entirely by 
non-professors. ^Ye venture not, as yet, however, to embrace 
this view of the subject. Time will be required by many to test 
its soundness, and we cannot fully agree with the supporters of 
the theory. 

On the IGth of December, 1846, a meeting was held in Ash- 
land Hall, at which patriotic speeches were made relative to the 
Mexican War. A company of volunteers was soon raised, being 
composed of, young men of the city and county of Norfolk, and 
of Princess Anne. On the 26th, an election of oiBcers took 
place, and 0. E. Edwards was chosen captain. 

January 1, 1847. A company having also been raised in 
Portsmouth, John P. Young was elected captain. On the 12th, 
this company went to Richmond, and was suitably received and 
disposed of by Governor Smith. The company proceeded to 
Mexico, but was not favoured with an opportunity of engaging 
with the enemy. 

Captain Edwards's company was also offered to the Governor 
for his disposal, but not being received, the offer was made to the 
Governor of North Carolina ; being again refused, proposals were 
then made to the United States Government, and promptly ac- 
cepted. Captain E. having received a commission as captain, 
in a regiment of voltigeurs, embarked, on March 27th, for Fort 
M'Henry, near Baltimore ; after which, the company proceeded 
to Mexico, where Captain E. was assigned to the command of 
the howitzer battery attached to the regiment. During the en- 
gagement at the National Bridge, and elsewhere. Captain E. 
and his company fought with great gallantry. After his return 
to the city, he was presented, by some of the citizens, with an 
elegant sword, as an evidence of their appreciation of his brave 
conduct and distinguished efforts in the service of his country. 
He has since died in California, leaving a wife and several chil- 
dren, who reside in this city. 



230 HISTORICAL AND 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

1847. 

Destructive Five— Fi-iglitful Accident — B03-S Burnt — Suffering and Death — 
Rev. Mr. Beall — Marble Tablet — Virginia Temperance Advocate — Grain 
Business — High Prices — Unseasonable Weather — Fish — Moonlight Excur- 
sions — Prices of Grain — Picv. Mr. Anderson — Indian Corn — Demand from 
Ireland — Shipments — ^Sabbath-school Celebration — Rev. Mr. Cummins — 
U. S. Ship Pennsylvania — Grain and Corn — Death of Colonel Nevyton — Death 
of Dr. Moseley — City Hall — Corner Stone — Ceremonies — Oration — Rev. Mr. 
Hitselberger — New Orphan Asylum — View of the Old Church at Jamestown 
— Gift of the Norfolk Ladies — Public Buildings — Streets Paved — Spirit of 
Improvement — Beacon Office Destroyed — Snow and Thunder. 

January 16, 1847. At au early hour, a destructive fire broke 
out on the south side of Main Street, two or three doors east 
from the corner of Market Square, which consumed several very 
valuable buildings, and a large quantity of goods. Newton's 
beautiful block on Market Square, and the property on the 
north side of Main Street, were seriously menaced by the flames ; 
but for the very active exertions of the several fire companies 
of this city, and of Portsmouth, on this as on other occasions, 
the destruction would have been very great. The loss was esti- 
mated at $60,000. 

A frightful accident, attended with loss of life under very 
painful circumstances, occurred after the fire had been subdued. 
Several boys, among whom were Robert Brown and Barlow 
Daniel, were endeavouring to extricate, from among the smoul- 
dering ruins, a large tin can, containing a quantity of spirits of 
turpentine, camphine, or other explosive liquid, which had been 
kept in the cellar of one of the stores destroyed. Just as they 
succeeded in pulling it out from a pile of hot bricks, it ignited 
and exploded, scattering the combustible substance in every 
direction, and simultaneously saturating, and setting on fire, the 
clothes of the unfortunate boys above named. It was, to them, 
an awful moment, of the intensest agony and horror. The poor 
boys were, in an instant, completely enveloped in a thick sheet 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. '281 

of fflarino- wbite flame, which arose several feet above their 
heads. No martyr at the stake, nor any act of savage cruelty, 
had, probably, ever presented an instance of more excruciating 
bodily torture, so completely enwrapped were they in the fierce, 
flashing, devouring element, fed as it was by the fiery fluid ; — a 
lamentable condition, truly, for human beings to be placed in. 
Daniel, who was a sprightly and intelligent youth, ran screaming 
to the so-called Artesian well, which was within a few rods of the 
ruins, while Brown, a stout, active boy, of about fourteen, made 
the best of his way over the piles of rubbish, inhaling the white 
flame as he proceeded. Happening in the daytime, a number of 
persons hastened immediately to witness the frightful scene, 
Avhich words are scarcely adequate to describe. Terror was 
strikingly depicted in the countenance of every man present. 
The beholders stood, for a few moments, aghast, with uplifted 
hands, and uttering exclamations of horror. At first it seemed 
difficult, and even hazardous, to render assistance. A gentleman, 
however, had suSicient presence of mind to throw his cloak over 
Daniel, in his rapid, fiery flight ; but he disengaged himself, and, 
with almost superhuman efibrt, hurried on to the pump, where 
copious streams of cold water were quickly thrown upon him. 
The stores near the ruins were soon emptied of their occupants. 
Some came with water, others with blankets ; one of which was 
thrown over Brown, the flames extinguished, and the remaining 
fragments of half-burnt garments removed, after he had fallen 
upon a heap of rubbish. 

Too much pain has already been inflicted upon the feelings of 
the reader, and perhaps this narrative should end here ; but 
having commenced it, the sad conclusion may be expected. Be- 
sides, it may not be improper to show the extent of physical 
suff"ering to which the unfortunate creatures of earth are some- 
tiaies subjected. 

The half-stifled screams of " Put me out ! put me out !" thrilled 
the hearts of those present with indescribable pain, and the dis- 
torted and blistered condition of poor Brown's body, and that of 
his helpless companion in misery, was too shocking to behold, 
and the reader would sicken at a further detail. The unfortu- 
nate youths both received the most prompt and skilful medical 
and maternal attention ; but death relieved them of their suff'er- 



232 HISTOEICAL AND 

ings on the following day. They both had widowed mothers, 
whose emotions of deep, heartfelt, agonizing sorrow must be 
imagined. 

March 10th, 1847. Departed this life, Rev, Upton Beall, for- 
merly of Frederick, Maryland, the esteemed pastor of Christ 
Church. The members of his charge caused a handsome mar- 
ble tablet, with an appropriate inscription, to be prepared and 
placed in the church, on the west wall, near the northwest cor- 
ner ; and they also had erected to his memory, in Cedar Grove 
Cemetery, a beautiful monument, with an epitaph and significant 
emblems. 

May 15th. On this day was issued the first number of the 
Virginia Temperance Advocate, a weekly paper, edited by the 
author. of these sketches, and devoted to temperance, morality, 
literature, health, (fee. It was favourably noticed by the press, 
and well received by the community ; the subscription-list in- 
cluded the names of many of the most intelligent citizens in 
town and country. It was subsequently edited by W. W. 
Davis, Esq. 

A very heavy and extensive grain business was done in the 
spring of this year ; the principal cause of the demand being the 
scarcity of food in Ireland. A large number of English and 
American vessels were freighted with corn, flour, meal, pork, &c., 
&c., and a scene of great activity was exhibited in the commercial 
portion of the city. Some of the enterprising and more expe- 
rienced merchants were greatly enriched, while the injudicious 
and incautious sustained heavy losses. There were some who 
might have adopted the following lines : 

" Of all the days since I was born, 
I hate the day I dealt in com ; 
And long shall I lament the hour, 
"When I resolved to trade in flour. 
And, -what is worse, I've had no ease, 
Since buying up the beans and peas. 
Alas ! how wretched do I feel, 
Whene'er I'm told the price of meal. 
Oh ! had I dealt in pork and lard, 
I would not say the times were hard. 
But curse upon all speculation. 
Which ruined me, if not the nation." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCUES. 233 

May 21st. Corn was this day quoted at $1 05 ; fine flour, $10 ; 
superfine, $11; family, $12. 

Durin<T the month of May, the weather was remarkahly cool 
for the season. Fires were comfortable, and overcoats were 
worn. 

So plentiful was the supply of fresh fish in the market, during 
the latter part of this month, that half a dozen fine large gray 
trout sold for only six and a quarter cents. 

Moonlight excursions down the river in steamboats, to Hamp- 
ton Roads and the Capes, with music and dancing, became very 
popular among the pleasure-loving, and the "loved and loving" 
in particular. 

June 11th. Price of corn, $1 15; oats, 55 cents. 

Sunday, June 13th. Rev. S. J. P. Anderson was this day in- 
stalled pastor of the Presbyterian Church. 

June 21th. For the quarter ending this day, 750,830 bushels 
of Indian corn were reported as having been inspected in the 
city, and all the returns had not been made. 

This article of food was now becoming somewhat scarce, even 
in this land of plenty and of inexhaustible resources. The long, 
loud cry which came booming, as it were, over the broad bosom 
of the Atlantic for bread, and which had been so nobly and 
generously heeded and responded to, had almost imperceptibly 
reduced the supplies, even in this great corn region, below the 
mark which prudence might have dictated. Vessel after vessel, 
laden Avith this invaluable fruit of the soil, had descended the 
various rivers, which drain the fertile valleys in our vicinity. 
The warehouses groaned and cracked beneath the immense pres- 
sure of the nutritious substance, and it was transferred in vast 
quantities to the ample holds of the vessels, which bore it rapidly 
away before the ocean breezes to the shores of unhappy Ireland, 
for the relief of the famishing inhabitants of that oppressed 
island ; where the cries of the starving thousands of all ages, 
first loud and clamouring, then growing weaker and fainter, were 
still unheeded by many, till they were hushed in death, and the 
trembling tenements fell in ruins as the spirits ascended to their 
God. 

July 4th. On this day, in addition to the usual display of the 



234 HISTORICAL AND 

tnilitary, there was another large Sabbath-school procession, 
numbering about one thousand children, besides the teachers ; 
all of whom were under the general supervision of Walter H. 
Taylor, Esq., assisted by Wm. H. Hunter, and Harrison Robert- 
son, Esqrs., whose vigilant attention was instrumental in pre- 
ventinsr the occurrence of a sinfrle accident to cast a shade of 
unpleasantness upon the splendid picture. Who that witnessed 
that scene did not entertain the wish that the numbers of young 
hearts then beating with life, and love, and joyfulness, might 
ever be preserved from the contaminating influences and ruinous 
consequences of sin ? Able and eloquent addresses were deli- 
vered by Rev. Mr. Hendrickson, of the Baptist Church, and 
Rev. Mr. xinderson, of the Presbyterian Church. 

On Sabbath, July 10th, Rev. George D. Cummins, who had 
been duly elected Rector of Christ Church, to supply the vacancy 
occasioned by the death of Rev. Mr. Beall, preached his intro- 
ductory sermon to a densely-crowded audience. The discourse 
was very interesting and appropriate, evincing a high order of 
rhetorical talent, as well as an exalted sense of the dignity and 
responsibilities of his sacred ofBce, and of his new and important 
charge. 

July 24th. The U. S. ship Pennsylvania— that giant among 
vessels — moved majestically down from the mouth of the Southern 
Branch, opposite the navy-yard, to the anchorage off Smith's 
Point. As an evidence of the great depth of water in the har- 
bour, although the tide was unusually low when the ship was 
removed, she met with no interruption whatever, but passed 
steadily along, in silent grandeur, to be a magnificent ornament 
to our capacious haven. Her dimensions are as follows : — 220 
feet, lower deck ; 217 feet, length aloft ; 190 feet, length of keel 
for tonnage ; 56 feet, 9 inches, moulded breadth of beam for 
tonnage ; 59 feet, moulded breadth of beam outside of wales ; 
23 feet, depth of hold ; 51 feet, extreme depth amidships ; 
3,306 23-95, tonnage; guns, 140; 18,341 yards duck, one set 
of sails ; 14,624 yards duck, bags, hammocks, boat-sails, awnings, 
&c. ; total, 32,965 yards ; 11 inches, shrouds ; 10 inches, main- 
stay ; 278 feet, mainmast ; 110 feet, mainyard ; 82 feet, topsail 



DESCRirTIVE SKETCHES. 235 

yard ; 52 feet, topgallant yard ; oO feet, royal yard ; 10,000 lbs. 
sheet anchor ; 1,521 yards main-topsail. 

This ship, which cost the nation $800,000, -was built at Phila- 
delphia, and is now lying at the Gosport Navy-Yard. She is the 
largest ship in the American Navy, and the most costly. The 
only voyage she ever made was from Philadelphia to Norfolk. 

July 23d. Corn at this date was quoted at 65 cts., and flour 
at $6 50, exhibiting a very considerable fall in price Avithin a 
few weeks. 

August 5th. Departed this life, aged 70 years, Hon. Thomas 
Newton.* 

Saturday, August 14th. Dr. Moseley, an eminent medical 
gentleman of Norfolk, died suddenly, of apoplexy, in his office. 

Monday, 23d. The corner-stone of the large and beautiful 
City Hall was laid this day. The volunteer companies, Free- 
masons, Odd-Fellows, Sons of Temperance, Rechabites, Druids, 
city authorities, officers of the Navy, the clergy, and the citizens 
generally, accompanied by a fine band of music, moved in pro- 
cession through some of the streets, and then assembled at the 
northeast corner of the foundation of the intended hall of justice. 

A box, containing coins, papers, and other memorials, was 
placed in a square cavity, hewn out of a large piece of granite, 
upon which was placed another piece, and on this the thick and 
solid foundation-stones were laid, there to remain, perhaps, for 
ages, undisturbed, and concealed from the view of the busy 
crowds by which it will often be surrounded. An able Masonic 
address was delivered by Mr. J. C. M'Cabe, after which the Rev. 
A. L. Hitsclberger, of St. Patrick's Church, who was selected as 
the orator for the occasion, delivered an address, which was cha- 
racterized by elegance of style, combined with highly appropriate 
and classical allusions, and patriotic sentiments. " It was, in- 
deed," says the Herald, "one of the most masterly efforts of 
eloquence which we have ever listened to, and in which the gifted 
speaker exhibited extensive learning and familiarity with the 
history and jurisprudence of ancient times." 

September 8th. The corner-stone of the new Orphan Asylum 
was laid, under the supervision of the lady managers of the insti- 
* See pages 54, 55, 71, &c. 



\ 



236 HISTORICAL and 

tution, assisted by John Tunis, Esq., and several other gentle- 
men. No oration was pronounced, on account of the ilhiess of 
the person selected to perform that duty. 

October. A beautiful token of attachment to the home of 
their nativity was shown by two Norfolk ladies, then residents 
of another city, who had lithographed, at their own expense, an 
accurate view of the ancient church at Jamestown (the first built 
in A'^irgiiiia), intended especially, as expressed on the plate, for 
the Norfolk Female Orphan Asylum. " 

During this year, several public buildings were commenced, 
Freemason and other streets were paved, new streets were opened, 
and a spirit of improvement, such as had not been manifested in 
the place before, began to diffuse itself. 

Saturday evening, November 27th. Beacon ofSce and reading- 
room destroyed by fire. 

Dec. 21. At an early hour it commenced snowing, with a 
strong wind from northeast. The ground was soon covered to 
the depth of two or three inches. At three o'clock, in the midst 
of the violence of the storm, the inhabitants were startled by 
several peals of thunder, the heavy, dull, and yet loud sound of 
Avhich, echoed and rolled along beneath the lowering clouds for 
many seconds after each explosion. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

1848—1849. 

Southern Argus— Its Peculiarities— Remarks of Bulwer— Methodist Church 
Destroyed — Destructive Conflagration — Suffering — Insurance — Bethel 
Church, &c. — Philharmonic Association — Youthful Heroism — Narrow Es- 
cape from Drowning — Captain Hamilton L. Shields, U. S. A. — Captain Ed- 
ward II. Fitzgerald, U. S. A.— New Baptist Church— California— Reflections 
— Visiters — Internal Improvements — Cumberland Street Methodist Epis- 
copal Church— Unsuitable Location— General ]Millson— The Cholera— Nor- 
folk Female Institute— Dr. Selden — Gas-Works — New Buildings— City Reve- 
nue — Death of M. King, Esq. 

January 8th, 1848. On this day the first number of the 
Southern Argus was issued, by S. T. Sawyer, Esq., editor and pro- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 237 

prietor. This paper is very ably conducted, and zealously advocates 
the principles and tenets of the Democratic party, a liberal sys- 
tem of internal improvements, the interest of the merchants, 
&c. It also presents, daily, an interesting variety of useful se- 
lections, which have rendered it popular as a family paper, as 
well as a valuable commercial and political journal. There is 
one peculiarity about the Argus, which is observable by its 
readers : it seldom notices or copies the particulars of the 
frightful accidents of so frequent occurrence in various sections 
of the country, and generally omits those extreme cases of in- 
humanity, suffering, or cruelty, Avhich occupy so large a place in 
the columns of some papers. Perhaps this may be the wiser 
course, in view of the effect which the reading of ,such accounts 
has upon the minds of some persons. 

"It may be observed," says Bulwer, "that there are certain 
years in which, in a civilized country, some particular crime 
comes into vogue. It flares its season, and then burns out. 
Thus, at one time, we have burking, at another, swingism — now 
suicide is in vogue ; now poisoning trades-people in apple-dump- 
lings ; now little boys cut each other with penknives ; now com- 
mon soldiers shoot at their sergeants. Almost every year there 
is one crime peculiar to it ; a sort of annual, which overruns the 
country, but does not bloom again. Unquestionably, the press 
has a great deal to do ivith these epidemics. Let a newspaper 
give an account of some out-of-the-way atrocity, that has the 
charm of being novel, and certain depraved minds fasten to it, 
like leeches. They brood over and resolve it ; the idea grows 
up a horrid phantasmalian monomania ; and all of a sudden, in 
a hundred different places, the one seed sown by the leaden 
types, springs up into foul flowering. But if the first reported 
aboriginal crime has been attended with impunity, how much 
more does the imitative faculty cling to it. Ill-judged mercy falls, 
not like dew, but like a great heap of manure, on the rank deed." 

March 2. The Methodist Episcopal Church, situated on Cum- 
berland, near Cove Street, was destroyed by fire. It was a large, 
handsome, and commodious building, erected in 1832-3 ; dedi- 
cated March, 1833 ; cost about $18,000 ; insurance nearly 
$14,000. 



238 HISTORICAL AND 

June 14. A fire broke out in the lumber-yard of Messrs. Fer- 
guson and Milhado, the contents of which, and of an adjoining 
one, belonging to Mr. John Tunis, each containing a very large 
quantity of plank, scantling, shingles, &c., &c., were consumed, 
together with hundreds of barrels of pitch, tar, and turpentine, 
and several very large warehouses filled with foreign and do- 
mestic produce. The fire spread with fearful rapidity, sweeping 
both sides of Woodside's Lane, every building on the south side 
of Wide Water, from this lane to Fayette Street, and a long row 
on the opposite side of Water Street. The Mariners' Bethel, a 
new and handsome Gothic structure, shared the same fate. The 
flames bursting from the windows and steeple of this building, 
presented a grand and imposing scene. Many valuable build- 
ings on Fayette and Kelly Streets, including Harris's extensive 
bakery, were also destroyed. The unsparing element soon 
reached West Main Street, on which a number of valuable family 
residences were also laid in ruins. More than sixty buildings, 
exclusive of kitchens, stables, &c., Avere destroyed. Great quan- 
tities of produce were burnt, including thousands of bushels of 
corn, a very large amount of sugar, molasses, coffee, cotton, 
naval stores, several horses, &c., &c. The loss was estimated at 
$200,000. 

Many families were left in a most destitute condition, and ex- 
cited the profound sympathy of the community. The councils 
met on the Thursday following ; promptly voted an appropria- 
tion of $500 for the relief of the suff"erers, and appointed a com- 
mittee to solicit aid in their behalf. Many of the buildings, and 
a considerable portion of the produce, were insured, although 
many of the merchants were heavy losers. The Bethel Church 
was insured for $5,000. Among numerous painful instances of 
suffering and destitution, we record one only, — that of a mother, 
with an infant in her arms, and three or four small children 
gathering closely around her for protection. They had fled from 
the fury of the flames, having saved only a few pieces of furni- 
ture. 

On Thursday, the 22d, the Philharmonic Association gave a 
concert at the National Hotel, for the benefit of the indigent 
sufferers by this calamitous fire, and the musical entertainment 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 239 

proved to be one of a liiglily interesting character. The hirge 
saloon of the National was crowded by a fashionable audience, 
who appeared much delighted with the " concord of sweet 
sounds." A number of ariosoes, rondeaus, duetts, &c., were 
most admirably sung, manifesting a highly cultivated musical 
taste and talent, and producing a thrilling efi'ect upon the audi- 
ence. 

This Association is composed of young gentlemen whose native 
musical genius has been carefully cultivated. Their voices being 
happily harmonized, the various intonations are clear, full, and 
distinct ; and whether in solo, duett, quartette, or " in full chorus 
joined," the music swells out a tempo giusto, and in strong, deep- 
toned, and thrilling melody — rising or falling with singular har- 
mony and calm cadence — some of the closing strains resembling 
those produced by a well-trained instrumental band. 

On Tuesday afternoon, July 18th, a son of E. S. Pegram, 
Esq., merchant, while bathing in the river, was swept off by the 
current, and in imminent danger of being lost ; whereupon, 
Bryant Ward, aged ten years, a son of Wm. Ward, Esq., immc- 
diatel}^ swam out and succeeded in reaching his companion, but 
not having sufficient strength to rescue him, botli were soon ex- 
hausted, and would have perished, but for the timely arrival of 
a boat sent to their aid. The little hero remained insensible for 
some time, and when questioned as to his temerity, replied: " I 
could not bear to see him drown." A noble example of youthful 
heroism, well deserving of a record here. He was suitably re- 
warded by the father of the lad for whom he had freely hazarded 
his life, and the generous act was deservedly commended by all 
who were made acquainted with the circumstances attending it. 

On Thursday, 20th, an elegant and costly sword was pre- 
sented to Captain Hamilton L. Shields, of 3d Artillery, U. S. A., 
a native of this city, as a testimony from his fellow-citizens of 
their appreciation of his gallant services in the war with Mexico. 
Captain S. entered the army from West Point, and took part in 
the siege and capture of Vera Cruz ; after which, he was in very 
nearly every engagement from that place to the city of Mexico, 
and greatly distinguished himself by his bravery and soldier-like 
conduct. 



240 HISTORICAL AND 

Captain Shields received, in 1850^ the honourable and import- 
ant appointment of Judge Advocate of the Eastern Division of 
the United States Armj. 

Subsequently to the above presentation, a splendid sword was 
tendered by the citizens to Captain Edward H. Fitzgerald, U. 
S. A., of Norfolk, in testimony of their approbation of his gal- 
lantry and noble conduct in several engagements with the enemy 
on the ensanguined fields of Mexico. 

August 15. The corner-stone of the Freemason Street Baptist 
Church was laid in the afternoon of this day. The situation of 
this beautiful building was most judiciously chosen, being on the 
north side of Freemason, and east side of Catharine Streets, and 
at the northeast corner formed by their intersection, which is 
very near the centre of the city, affording a fine view of the 
structure from four or more different points. 

During a portion of this and the succeeding year, considerable 
excitement was manifested in the city on account of the extraor- 
dinary mineral developments in California ; and some enterprising 
young men and a few of the middle-aged, proceeded hence with 
all possible despatch to the land of promise — the land of glitter- 
ing gold ; and doubtless they were cheered on their devious, 
weary way by the bright anticipation of future wealth, honours, 
and happiness, when in the enjoyment of the great object of their 
toilsome journey. Some, it is gratifying to record, have suc- 
ceeded quite well in their expectations ; while others, who were 
unused to the hardships and perils of a long and tedious route, 
and the privations of a new, unsettled, uncultivated country, 
became sadly discouraged, and after many a day of disappoint- 
ment, sickness, and sorrow, returned to the cherished home of 
their childhood and youth — glad enough, indeed, to see again the 
familiar faces of relatives and friends, and to enjoy the pleasures 
and comforts of life. Some, alas, sickened, and lingered in pain 
awhile ; then closed their eyes in death, far, far away from the 
embrace of friends and the kindly attentions peculiar only to 
"home, sweet home." 

" The spades and mattocks with which they hoped to exhume 
the buried treasure, have been used for a mournful purpose, and 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 241 

thousands are sleeping their last sleep, entombed among the glit- 
tering dust that has lured them from home and family. 

" The misery and suspense of the friends and relatives of the 
emigrants, at home, are scarcely less painful to contemplate than 
the sufferings of the gold-hunters themselves. The fate of many 
of the latter will never be known to those they left behind. 
Among the lists of deaths, the words ' stranger' and ' un- 
known' frequently occur, and hundreds have died and will die 
in that far-off" land, of whose decease not even these anonymous 
memoranda will be made. The story of the overland emigration 
has not been half told. Thousands are yet struggling through 
the grassless and unwatered plains between the Council Bluff's 
and California, as the first crusaders struggled through the 
marshes of Hungary, and their line of march like that of the 
crosses, will hereafter be known by the graves and bleaching 
skeletons in their track." 

" Gold many hunted, sweat and bled for gold; 
Waked all the night, and laboured all the day ; 
And what was this allui-ement, dost thou ask ? 
A dust dug from the bowels of the earth, 
Which, being cast into the fire, came out 
A shining thing that fools admired, and called 
A god ; and in devout and humble plight 
Before it kneeled, the greater to the less. 
And on its altar, sacrificed ease, peace, 
Truth, faith, integrity, good conscience, friends, 
Love, charity, benevolence, and all 
The sweet and tender sympathies of life." 

During the last week in December, several members of the 
Legislature paid a visit to Norfolk and Portsmouth, among whom 
were Messrs. Burwell of Bedford, Boyd of Wythe, and M'Cue 
of Augusta. They addressed the people of the two towns on the 
subject of internal improvements. The principal object of their 
visit was to direct attention to the Lynchburg and Tennessee 
Railroad, and the extension of the Louisa Road to the Ohio. 
They aroused a very fine feeling, apparently, in behalf of those 
great measures. 

Sunday, Jan. 8th, 1849. The new Methodist Church, on Cum- 
berland Street, was this day dedicated by the Rev. J. E. Edwards, 

16 



242 HISTORICAL AND 

the minister in charge, whose discourse on the occasion was elo- 
quent and appropriate. This edifice occupies the site of that 
■which fell a prey to the devouring element on the night of 2d 
March, 1847. 

" The building is of the Grecian Doric order, designed by its 
architect and constructor, Mr. William Callis, of this city. It is 
sixty-four feet front, eighty-four feet deep, with an elevation of 
thirty-nine feet from the level of the street to the apex of the 
roof. 

" The front presents an open vestibule, supported by two 
handsome columns, of about three and a half feet in diameter, 
and four bold antoes or pilasters, all supporting a neat entabla- 
ture, and pediment, in plain Grecian Doric taste. The sides are 
also ornamented with antses, and a continuation of the entabla- 
ture from the front. 

" The entrance to the chapel is by two flights of commodious 
granite steps, fronting the street, — seven on either side, landing 
on a platform of eight feet square ; and six more turning right 
and left, land on a platform of ten by thirty feet, the front of 
which is enclosed with a very neat, cast-iron railing, finishing to 
two ornamented lamp-posts of cast-iron. Three doors in the 
vestibule open into the chapel, and two lead to the galleries. 

" The basement, Avhich is of nine feet pitch, and neatly 
finished, is divided into a lecture-room, sixty by fifty-seven feet ; 
four class-rooms of fourteen by twenty-four feet (unnecessarily 
large); and one of ten by fourteen, including the minister's 
study. There are, also, a wide passage, and the necessary fuel 
and sexton's rooms. 

" The church proper, or chapel story, is about twenty-six feet 
pitch in the clear. On the lower floor are three aisles and one 
hundred and twenty-eight seats, which will accommodate seven 
hundred and fifty persons ; the galleries, which are commodious, 
will accommodate four hundred more, on the sides, beside the 
front, occupied by the Choir, which will accommodate about one 
hundred and fifty." 

This large and commodious house of worship has been pro- 
nounced, by competent judges, to be, both externally and inter- 
nally, one of the neatest, and most symmetrical buildings in the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 243 

State ; but while it answers well all the purposes of the nume- 
rous membership and congregation, for Avhose accommodation it 
Avas erected (excepting the Sunday-school room, which is rather 
small, owing to the unusually large size of the class-rooms), it 
must be admitted that, on account of its unfavourable location, 
it is comparatively concealed from view. Situated on a narrow 
street, which abruptly terminates at a row of buildings, a few 
rods below, and on the south ; being immediately opposite an- 
other lofty block, and between buildings, which project, on 
either hand, several feet farther towards the line of the street 
than its beautiful front, it can only be seen to advantage by 
standing off, at a very short distance, on the opposite side of the 
street on which it stands. The burning of the other church 
afforded an excellent opportunity for obtaining a more suitable 
site, which was greatly desired, and even insisted upon by some 
of the members ; but there were others w^ho had worshipped for 
nearly half a century just there^ who naturally felt a strong at- 
tachment to that particular spot, and who, perhaps, deemed a 
change of location very unwise, if not almost sacrilegious. But, 
in addition to this, it was found very difficult to obtain a more 
suitable lot, at a fair price; consequently the present structure 
(like the former) though in a central situation, is comparatively 
but little ornament to the city.* 

Rev. Mr. Edwards, who served this church the first two years 
after its erection, was succeeded by Rev. Robert Michaels ; and 
Rev. Nelson Head was appointed for the conference year, com- 
mencing Nov. 1, 1852. 

April. On the fourth Thursday of this month, General John 
S. Millson, attorney at law, a native and resident of this city, 
was elected, by the Democratic party, a member of the House 
of Representatives from the First Congressional District of Vir- 
ginia. He was re-elected in October, 1851. 

General M. ranks high, among his political friends, as an 
efficient, firm, and faithful representative. By his talents, close 
mental application, and diligent attention to his professional 

* The writer has been informed that a proviso in the original deed of the 
ground to the trustees, is to the eflFect that no other building than a church 
shall be erected thereon ; otherwise the lot will be forfeited. 



244 HISTORICAL AND 

duties, he rose rapidly in the estimation of his fellow-citizens, as 
a lawyer, while his urbanity of manners, fidelity, exalted moral 
and social qualities, and unostentatious dignity of character, 
command the respect of his constituents. His style of oratory 
is energetic, forcible, and attractive, yet calm and deliberative, 
although he sometimes indulges quite freely in a dramatic or 
theatrical order of declamation. He is justly regarded as an 
eloquent and able advocate and defender of the leading principles 
and doctrines of the Democratic party. 

An intelligent Avriter thus alludes to one of his addresses, de- 
livered in October, 1852: 

"We have heard many and effective speeches during the pre- 
sent canvass ; numerous points urged with vigour and argument 
deserving the highest approval; but General Millson adds to 
these usual ingredients of Democratic addresses, a novelty which 
attracts and absorbs the attention of his hearers." 

The qualities which we have mentioned are such as, it is be- 
lieved, will continue to elevate the General in the scale of popu- 
lary, at least with his party ; and, as he is yet, comparatively, 
but a young man (about 45), he will probably receive more im- 
portant honours, than those that have been hitherto conferred 
upon him by his fellow-citizens. 

May 17, 1849. On this day, that fearful disease, the Asiatic 
cholera, again visited the town, after an interval of sixteen sum- 
mers. Its attacks were generally much less fatal than in 1832. 
The alarm was, nevertheless, great among many of the inhabi- 
tants ; and this, in some instances, doubtless prepared the system 
for its ravages. The progress of the disease was, in many cases, 
very readily arrested by the physician, when called in before the 
patient had begun to sink too rapidly, to yield to the effects of 
medicine. Some cases terminated fatally, in a few hours after 
the first symptoms ; others lingered a day or two. A few reco- 
vered quickly, and others gradually; requiring, in some in- 
stances, the lapse of months for the restoration of the system. 
It proved, as in '32, to be truly a mysterious malady; quite 
manageable in some cases, in others baffling the highest profes- 
sional skill ; defying the most searching investigation as to its 
real cause ; now, seemingly overcome by some simple and newly- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 245 

discovered antidote, and anon, pursuing its destructive course, 
despite all remedies, all attention. 

Some persons insisted that it was contagious ; others, to the 
contrary. It appears that there is yet much to be learned about 
it, by those whose profession may again bring them in close con- 
tact with its unseen power. We close now this digression, and 
leave the subject, serious indeed as it is, for the consideration 
and study of that invaluable class of citizens above alluded to, 
among the number of whom, in this region, one, at least, fell be- 
neath its irresistible strokes. 

July. The "■ Norfolk Female Ijistltute' vfus established this 
month. The principals are Rev. Aristides S. Smith, A.M., and 
Rev. Leonidas L. South, A.M., gentlemen who have proved them- 
selves to be qualified for their duties ; and we state with pleasure 
that success has crowned their efforts, and the prospects of the 
Institute are pleasing and favourable. This establishment is 
justly deemed a useful acquisition to the city, being " designed 
to furnish to parents and guardians in the South, a school in 
which they can secure as thorough a classical, English, and po- 
lite education as can be obtained in any of the seminaries of the 
North." 

" The buildings are spacious and elegant, and admirably suited 
for a boarding school for young ladies. They are located in a 
retired part of the city, on the most elevated spot of ground 
Avithin its limits. The grounds attached to them are beautifully 
laid out, and ornamented with a profusion of trees and shrub- 
bery. Embracing, too, more than an entire square, they furnish 
ample room for both amusement and exercise." 

Died, this month. Doctor Wm. Selden, aged 77, a physician 
who acquired an enviable distinction, and who was greatly es- 
teemed during a long life, sedulously devoted to his profession in 
this city. 

October 1st. The Gas Works, having been established by a 
company composed of enterprising and wealthy citizens, the 
first exhibition of the lights in the streets and buildings of the 
city took place on this day. 

The works first erected are situated on Briggs' Point, near the 
eastern extremity of the city, at the southwest corner of Mariner 



246 HISTORICAL AND 

and Third Cross Streets. The retort-house is forty-five by twenty- 
five feet, built of the best Baltimore bricks, and presents quite a 
handsome and ornamental front. From the centre of the build- 
ing an immense chimney springs up, nearly eighty feet high. 
There are two wings, fifteen by twenty-three feet ; one on the 
east and the other on the west of the main building. Connected 
with the establishment are two large cisterns, each holding 
50,000 gallons. These buildings will be abandoned, another 
location having been selected on James Street, near Armistead's 
Bridge, and buildings erected on a much more extensive scale. 
The works at the new location will go into operation early in 
1853, when important improvements will be introduced in the 
manner of generating the gas, &c. 

" When the storm howls, and the tempest shakes our dwelling- 
place at midnight, it is pleasant to look out upon the city below, 
all mantled with a silvery light. Here and there, on this side 
and that, as far as the eye can reach, the friendly lamps are 
seen, like so many faithful sentinels at their post, keeping watch, 
while the storm-king threatens destruction on every hand. These 
lights are like the bright stars that gleam out upon the mariner, 
when rocked by the billow on the bosom of ocean, amid the 
shout of the tempest. They cheer many bleeding hearts. Light 
is pleasant to eyes that are accustomed to weep, and never more 
pleasant than of a stormy night. Our gas lights confer this 
blessing upon many who have not the means, otherwise, to com- 
mand it. Let them burn on quietly and beautifully. We would 
not have them extinguished to be lighted no more, for any con- 
sideration."* 

Surplus of revenue over expenditures of city this year, 
$8,757 50. 

December 8. Died on this day. Miles King, Esq., a gentle- 
man who possessed great worth of character, having filled in 
Norfolk several offices of public trust and confidence. He was 
some time Captain of the Norfolk Light Artillery Blues, and 
afterwards filled the office of Navy Agent in this place ; he re- 
presented the borough in the Legislature of the State ; after 

* The use of gas for liglitiug streets was introduced in London in 1814. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 247 

which, he was, for years, reguhirly elected Mayor. In 1843, 
his health began to decline, and he retired from public life. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

1850. 

Internal Improvement Meeting — Delegation from Clarksville— David Shelton, 
Esq.— Doctor AVilson— Extracts from Interesting Letters— Unseasonable 
Weather— Launch of the Powhatan— Engines— The Gosport Iron AVorks— 
Norfolk Iron Works— Mechanics' Hall— Its Utility, &c.— Avon Theatre De- 
stroyed—Fire in Portsmouth — Cadets of the Virginia Military Institute — 
Their Visit to Norfolk, &c.— Acknowledgments — Snow-Storm— General Scott 
—Fire in Gosport— Fruit, Vegetables, &c.— Farms— New City Hall— Loca- 
tion— Architecture — Dimensions — View — New Baptist Church — Description 
— Ashland Hall — Drought and Warm Weather. 

FriDx\y evening, January 11th, 1850, a very large meeting of 
the citizens of Norfolk was held at Ashland Hall, for the pur- 
pose of conferring with a delegation of the citizens of Clarks- 
ville, Mecklenburg County, Va., on the subject of a raih-oad 
connexion from that town with the Seaboard and Roanoke Rail- 
road, at a point at or near Gaston, North Carolina. 

" David Shelton, Esq., one of the delegation, explained in a 
lucid and forcible speech, the increasing interest which was felt 
in the Roanoke country in the great subject of internal improve- 
ments. The delay and difficulties in the navigation of the 
Roanoke River, owing to the bad management of the Roanoke 
Navigation Company, were pointed out, and the speaker an- 
nounced the determination of those he represented to have a 
railroad connexion with Noi^folk and Portsmouth. ' The port of 
Norfolk was their natural market, and here they meant to come.' 
Mr. S. stated the cost of freights to Petersburg and Richmond, 
and the great tax upon the planters of the Roanoke." 

Dr. Wilson, of Clarksville, followed Mr. Shelton in some very 
appropriate remarks. 



248 HISTORICAL AND 

An account of the further action of the city, with regard to 
this and other roads, will be found in another part of this work. 

The following is an extract of a letter from Dr. Wm. A. Smith, 
addressed to the delegates above mentioned, on the object of 
their mission. 

" The road to Clarksville should be the commencement of one, 
in due course of time, to Memphis, Tenn., to connect with the 
prospective Government road, through the territories, to San 
Francisco, in California. The use of steam from thence to 
China, must result in the introduction of imports from China 
(tea, in particular) into this country. These must find a ship- 
ping port on the Atlantic coast. What point offers the advan- 
tages of the port of Norfolk ? None ; emphatically, none. The 
best port on the coast, it lies on nearly the same parallel of 
latitude with Clarksville, Memphis, and Francisco. To talk, 
then, of allowing that vast portion of this trade that would reach 
Memphis from Francisco, seeking the Atlantic coast, to wind 
around by way of Lynchburg and down to Richmond and Peters- 
burg, and thence to sea, when it can be brought in a straight 
line, varying only three-fourths of a degree from Francisco to 
Norfolk, is idle in the extreme."* 

* Rev. William A. Smith, D.D., President of Randolph Macon College, from 
■whom the above letter was received, is distinguished not only for his extensive 
acquirements as a theologian, and for his talents as a pulpit orator, but also 
for his general knowledge and usually correct views of those measures which 
affect the great commercial and political interests of our State and the country 
at large. This letter is somewhat characteristic of the man ; and it is believed 
that his judgment in the premises may be relied on. 

Dr. Smith is well known in Norfolk, having served the Church here for six 
or eight years, since his first appointment to this station, which was about the 
year 1831. About two yeai's subsequently, he met with the sad accident (a 
fall from his carriage) which rendered him a cripple for life. 

In the great religious revival here in 1834-'35, his labours, notwithstanding 
his lameness, Avere arduous, unceasing, and abundantly blessed. 

He has a mind of great strength and inherent power, and which, when 
brought to bear upon a subject, especially in a debate, throws upon it a degree 
of light which generally carries conviction irresistibly home to the minds of 
his hearers. He is considered a very able logician. His style of rhetoric is 
original and commanding, his enunciation full and clear, his manner and gesti- 
culation dignified and impressive ; and all combine to produce the desired effect 
upon large and promiscuous assemblages. He is remarkably ready and origi- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 249 

" Dr. S. has subsequently pvesented the matter in a captivating 
point of view, so far as the city of Norfolk is concerned. With 
a prophetic finger, he pointed away to California, and told us 
that the day would come when a long train of cars Avould roll 
on, freighted with the rich products of that distant region, 
for the Norfolk market. The teas and silks of China, even, he 
thought, would eventually traverse this portion of the North 
American Continent, seeking a shipping-point on the Atlantic 
coast, for their final destination in Europe." 

We add, also, an extract of a letter to the citizens of Norfolk, 
from a committee appointed by the citizens of Clarksville : 

" A glance at the map of the Roanoke country will satisfy the 
most sceptical of the importance to Norfolk and Portsmouth of 
securing the trade of this extensive and immensely fertile region. 
Ours is a point of extraordinary concentration. Here the Dan 
and Staunton come together, both navigable for many miles for 
batteaux ; and, Avithin ten or twelve miles, the rivers Banister 
and Hyco (one running through one of the most fertile regions 
of Virginia, and the other through the best part of North Caro- 
lina), empty their waters into the Dan ; both of them being also 
navigable for many miles. Your Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad, 
when completed, will run within forty miles of our town. Yours 
is our natural market ; but the supineness of our people, as well as 
yours, has left us, up to this time, no alternative but to send our 

native. Some of his extemporaneous eiforts on particular occasions, with but 
little or no time for preparation, have been marked by extraordinary strength 
and concentration of thought and oratorical skill. He is a most fearless and 
spirited debater, discovering and exhibiting, with much adroitness, the weak 
points in the arguments of his opponent, and possessing the enviable tact of 
bringing the strongest points of his own argument to bear with great force 
upon the question at issue. Yet it must be admitted that it requires a deeply 
interesting subject, or a powerful opponent, to light up fully the fires upon the 
altar of his vigorous mind. His information, theological, legal, political, and 
general, is such as to render him peculiarly fit for the responsible duties of 
his present office, and even to induce the belief that he could, at very short 
notice, plead with ability a desperate case at the bar, or deliver a learned and 
eloquent address on any of the great questions that agitate the public mind at 
the present day. These remarks are in accordance with the views of persons 
of good judgment, correct taste, and different religious sentiments, who have 
had sufficient opportunity to form an opinion. 



250 HISTORICAL AND 

produce to Petersburg or Richmond. Should the road contem- 
plated be constructed, and we be enabled to send our produce 
directly to Norfolk and Portsmouth, we shall be saved the ex- 
pense of a tedious and circuitous transportation, and your cities 
will be flooded with the productions of our hills and our valleys, 
until you will not have a place to hold them. Besides, should 
foreign invasion ever again threaten you, our hardy and brave 
sons will be able to roll down like a mighty flood to overwhelm 
your enemies. This latter consideration is particularly worthy 
of your notice." 

The greater part of this month (January), was remarkably 
warm for the season. Some of the fruit and shade trees germi- 
nated, flowers bloomed, and nature bore, thus early, much of the 
appearance of the early spring-time. 

February 14th. St. Valentine's day. — The splendid new war 
steamer, Powhatan, was this day launched at the Navy Yard, in 
fine style. That vessel is one of the most beautiful pieces of 
naval architecture ever sent forth from this or any other esta- 
blishment. 

" The launch of the Powhatan was efi'ected at the precise time 
appointed — in the morning, forty-five minutes past ten — when she 
glided from her ways into the watery element, with the grace of 
a swan and the truth of a rifle — without varying a hair's breadth 
from a straight line. As she measured her length in the water, 
she kicked ofi" her trammels and took a plunge for the opposite 
shore, which was vainly essayed to be checked by two twenty- 
two inch cables, which she snapped asunder like pipe stems. 

" It was decidedly one of the best ordered and the most beau- 
tiful launches Avhich has ever been witnessed. Commodore Sloat 
and his ofiicers. Captain Farragut and Lieutenant Glisson, threw 
open their houses on the occasion, and displayed a generous and 
whole-souled hospitality — each having provided a profuse and 
elegant collation, worthy of an occasion which had redounded so 
much to their credit and proved to them a source of so much 
real self-congratulation. 

" The Powhatan's keel was laid in July, 1847, and she was 
constructed under the superintendence of S. T. Hartt, Esq., the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 251 

Constructor of the Yard (by the way, he is esteemed one of the 
brightest jewels in Uncle Sam's casket) according to draughts 
furnished by Francis Grice, Esq." 

The engines of this large government steamer were constructed 
at the Gosport Iron "Works, a private establishment of great 
capacity and powerful facilities for extensive operations, and which 
was wisely located in Gosport a few years since by A. Mahaffey, 
Esq., a liberal, wealthy, and enterprising gentleman from Penn- 
sylvania. The boilers alone weigh about 250,000 pounds — cost, 
nearly Si 20,000 ; cost of the copper alone, $90,000.* 

On the evening of the 14th, the Mechanics' Hall was first 
opened and lighted for the reception of visiters, and hundreds, 
of all ages, male and female, comprising many of the gay and 
beautiful, congregated in the main hall, which is truly a most 
desirable acquisition to the city. The situation of this building 
was well chosen with regard both to convenience and ornament ; 
being on the south side of Main Street, the principal thorough- 
fare, and only a few doors east of Market Square. 

The front is of the Tudor Gothic order, presenting a bold and 
highly ornamental exterior, which is stuccoed and laid off in the 
most beautiful and durable style ; indeed, the finish of the entire 
building is very creditable to all the workmen, and especially to 
Mr. John II. Sale, the architect, and (aided by Mr. Samuel 
Butt), the chief builder. The entire building covers an area of 
5670 square feet, being ninety feet long, by sixty-three wide; 
height, fifty-four feet to the coping of the battlement. The 
great hall, which is one of the largest in the State, measures fifty- 
four by ninety feet ; pitch, eighteen feet. There are ten rooms 
on the third floor, and on the first floor there are three large 
and elegant stores and one ofiice. 

The erection of this handsome structure, affording as it does, 

* The Norfolk Iron Works, on Wide Water Street, Mr. N. Cory proprietor, 
are prepared for extensive operations in making and repairing machinery. 
The ingenious and enterprising gentleman at the head of this establishment 
has recently enlarged his buildings, and made arrangements which enable him 
in many respects to compete successfully with other works. His castings and 
polished work in iron, steel, brass, &c., sometimes very ponderous and compli- 
cated, give great satisfaction. 



252 HISTOEICAL AND 

what the people of Norfolk have long felt the want of, a large, 
well-finished room, conveniently located, for public exhibitions, 
concerts, fairs, lectures, &c., proves, no doubt, a profitable in- 
vestment to the large and useful association, whose property it 
is (The Mechanical Society), and for whose benefit it was erected. 
The hall has already witnessed many occasions of great interest 
and animation. Melodious and charming streams of music resound 
within its walls, the eloquence of the orator has echoed there ; 
many of the fair and lovely have congregated there too. In the 
brilliant light afforded by the " invisible and combustible fluid," 
for the burning of which it is well supplied with beautiful chande- 
liers, there is presented many a lively and deeply interesting 
scene. 

On the morning of the loth, between the hours of one and 
two, Avon Theatre was discovered to be on fire. All efforts to 
save the large and commodious building proved entirely futile, 
and with the furniture, paintings, drapery, &c., it Avas in a few 
minutes, a shapeless heap of ruins.* 

Wednesday evening, 20th. A destructive fire occurred on 
High Street, Portsmouth. 

23d. The cadets of the Virginia Military Institute being in 
Richmond, on the occasion of the laying of the corner stone of 
the Washington Monument, accepted an invitation to visit our 
city, and arrived in the Richmond boat in the afternoon of this 
day, and remained for several days ; during which time, they 
partook of its hospitalities and sociabilities. This large and 
well-disciplined corps of young men, with its accomplished offi- 
cers, by their gentlemanly deportment and soldier-like move- 
ments, made a most favourable impression upon the citizens, who 
were highly pleased with the exhibitions of their extraordinary 
skill as tacticians, upon the parade ground ; while the gallant 
young soldiers from the mountains expressed themselves, in 
terras of great satisfaction and gratification, with regard to the 
circumstances attending their visit to the salt-water region of 
the State, and relative to their reception and stay in the city of 

* There was formerly a theatre on the east side of Fenchurch near Main 
Street. It was a neat, stuccoed building, of moderate size. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 253 

Norfolk. " For four consecutive days and nights tliere was one 
perfect scene of entertainment and merry making." 

The following is an extract of an eloquent and beautiful 
letter, addressed by the Cadets to Richmond, Norfolk, &c., after 
their return to Lexington : — 

" Lavish as we have been of our thanks, in what vocabulary 
shall we find words sufficiently warm, glowing, and sincere, to 
express to you, citizens of Norfolk, our heartfelt gratitude for 
your hospitalities ? Elsewhere, we were received as friends — 
you received us as brothers. Domesticated in your 'houses, in- 
troduced as old acquaintances to your families, surrounded with 
every attention that fancy could conceive, or friendship execute, 
we felt that, among you, we were really and truly at home. 
Ties were formed, which time, destroyer as he is, will smilingly 
pass by, and leave to brighten in eternal youth ; friendships 
there linked together, which the lapse of years can only render 
stronger. We know not, ladies of Norfolk, in what language to 
speak of you. We know not how to requite the gentle affability, 
the kindness which uniformly marked your demeanour towards 
us. To the volunteers of Portsmouth, as to those of Norfolk, 
and to Commodore Sloat, and the gallant officers under his 
command, we must pay our meed of thanks." 

April 17. On this day there was a considerable snow-storm. 
It commenced snowing rapidly, and in large flakes, at 9 o'clock, 
and continued for several hours. It froze at night, destroying 
much of the fruit, such as peaches, apricots, cherries, the first 
growth of figs, &c. 

April 24. The city was this day visited by the hero of 
Lundy's Lane, Vera Cruz, &c. General Scott attracted a 
crowd of eager spectators, who were naturally anxious to look 
upon one of the most renowned and successful chieftains the 
world ever knew. A salute was fired, on his arrival, by the 
Artillery Blues ; and, with his suite, he was escorted, by the 
volunteer companies, to the National Hotel. 

May 1. Destructive fire in Gosport — thirty houses burned. 
For the purpose of conveying some idea of the business done 
here, in fruit and vegetables, at this season, we present the 



254 HISTORICAL AND 

following statement : — On the 17tli of this month, six hundred 
bushels of green peas, and five hundred quarts of strawberries, 
were shipped to Baltimore. Four hundred bushels of peas were 
also shipped to Washington. This may be considered a tolerably 
fair business, for so early a day in a very backward season. An 
intelligent writer thinks that, "Since the line of steamers between 
New York and this place have been in operation, the farms, in 
this vicinity, are more profitable than the mines of the modern 
El Dorado." 

In 1852, the shipments of early fruit, vegetables, &c., had 
wonderfully increased ; a very heavy and profitable business was 
done. 

Wednesday, May 29. The Worshipful Court of the city of 
Norfolk convened on this day, for the first time, in the court- 
room of the new City Hall. 

This large and handsome building, to which allusion has al- 
ready been made, occupies a portion of the space formerly in- 
tended as a public square ; bounded by Bank, Cove, Avon, and 
Williams Streets. This site was judiciously selected, in prefer- 
ence to that on which the old court-house stood, being more cen- 
tral, and aifording a fine view of the building from the harbour. 
The erection of this beautiful structure, is said to have been " a 
triumph of mechanical skill." Its walls rest upon solid rows of 
piles, of sufficient capacity, in the opinion of the most experienced 
architects, " to sustain any weight of superstructure that could 
be raised upon them. In this particular, the most important of 
all, especial care was taken to secure a permanent and immovable 
foundation." 

The length of the building is eighty feet (north and south) by 
sixty in wddth. The portico, fronting west, and seen from Bank 
Street, Granby Street, and the harbour, is supported by six mas- 
sive columns of the Tuscan order ; it is sixty feet long, leaving a 
recess of ten feet at each end. The cupola adds greatly to the 
beauty and the bold and commanding appearance of the building, 
being thirty-two feet in diameter, and fifty-two feet high. A 
passage, thirteen feet wide, extends through from the front to the 
rear entrance. On the north side of the passage is the court-room ; 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 255 

and on tlie south, the mayor and sheriff's offices. On the second 
floor, and north side, is a spacious room, in which the United States' 
Court, for this district, is heW. The council-chambers and jury- 
rooms are also on the second floor. The front wall is faced with 
granite, and the exterior of the others stuccoed in the most 
durable manner, and made to represent the same kind of stone. 
The entrance from the ground is by steps of granite, which ex- 
tend nearly the entire length of the portico. The building also 
presents a handsome view on the eastern side, where there are, 
also, handsome stone steps to the entrance. The foundation 
walls are of granite, and rise from the piles eight feet to the sur- 
face of the ground, and thence of hewn stone five feet above. 
The walls are strengthened, to sustain the piers above, by re- 
versed arches ; and a cylindrical brick arch, of elaborate con- 
struction, supports the platform and pillars of the portico. 

Height of the main building, fifty-eight feet ; entire height to 
the summit of the cupola (from Avhich there is a fine view of the 
harbour and surrounding scenery), one hundred and ten feet, 
above which is erected a tall flag-staff, from which, on public oc- 
casions, a very large ensign, with the stars and stripes, is un- 
furled to the breeze. Attached to the lightning-rod, a few feet 
above the top of the staff, is a gilt vane, five feet long, in the 
shape of an arrow. 

Beneath the principal passage, on the first floor, there is a 
large cistern, holding about forty-five thousand gallons. The 
roof is covered with tin. The original plan of the building was 
drawn by Mr. William R. Singleton, architect, formerly of Ports- 
mouth, and now of St. Louis, Missouri; some alterations were 
suggested by Mr. Walter, of Philadelphia, which were adopted. 
General superintendent of the work, Mr. Thomas Constable ; car- 
penter, Mr. Isaac M. Smith ; stone-mason, Mr. 0. H. Rand ; 
plasterers, Messrs. Holmes and Tarral ; painter, Mr. John W. 
Belote ; tin-worker, Mr. G. L. Crow. Cost of the building, in- 
cluding the clerk's and register's offices, about fifty thousand 
dollars. The piles were driven by the machinery and workmen 
of Mr. N. Nash, ship-builder. The situation affords an excellent 
view of the structure from several different points. It is on a 



256 HISTORICAL AND 

line with that portion of Main Street, east of Church, from which 
the cupola is plainly seen. The view, from the harbour, on the 
west, and approaching the city, is full, and really imposing. It 
is seen, also, for a considerable distance, on the Seaboard and 
Roanoke Railroad. 

" The first eight miles of the road (to Bowers's Hill) is per- 
fectly straight ; and riding on an open platform, the traveller 
has the benefit of an interesting perspective view of it as it re- 
cedes in the long vista of forest trees on each side ; and it is 
quite remarkable, that the dome of the City Hall in Norfolk 
stands precisely in the centre of the vanishing point of vision, 
and continues in full view for four miles, when the projection 
of the trees gradually shut it in. The City Hall was located 
without a thought of its relation to the railroad ; and its position 
presenting it as a prominent land-mark and object of vision 
through a vista of many miles of the latter, is really a curious 
coincidence." 

May 30, Thursday. On the evening of this day, the Freemason 
Street Baptist Church Avas dedicated. An able sermon was 
preached by Rev. Dr. Fuller, an eminent divine of Baltimore. 

This is one of the handsomest, and is unquestionably the most 
ornamental building in the city. It is, indeed, a noble temple of 
worship, — a splendid monument of human art, and of the taste 
and liberality of those who have been instrumental in its erection, 
on so favourable and well-chosen a spot, — the northeast corner 
of Catharine and Freemason Streets. It is truly an ornament 
to the city, and would be to any in the Union. It is justly prized 
and admired by all. That tall spire, shooting up towards heaven, 
far above all surrounding objects, and observed for miles around, 
standing forth in its symmetrical beauty — who does not admire 
it ? May it remain there, in its pride, for ages, witnessing the 
rise of other "tall piles," and the extension of this old town for 
miles to the north, to the east, and to the west. 

"The style of architecture is the florid perpendicular Gothic 
of the fifteenth century, which, from its beauty of outline, the 
variety and boldness of its parts, is one well adapted and most 
appropriate for religious purposes. The design was furnished 
by the well-known architect, Thomas U. Walter, of Philadel- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 257 

phia. The building, measuring from buttress to buttress, fronts 
sixty-five feet on Freemason Street, and its length on Catharine 
Street, including the tower, is one hundred and five feet. The 
buttresses have a massive appearance, indicative of strength and 
stability. The tower is one of the best proportioned and pic- 
turesque we have ever seen of this style, and we have examined 
most of the old Gothic edifices in the north of England and south 
of Scotland. It combines, in a high degree, strength and 
beauty — is both massive and graceful. Its height from the street 
is two hundred feet. 

" The basement comprises a handsome lecture-room, fifty-two 
feet square ; well supplied with commodious seats, and lighted 
with gas. In its rear are two spacious rooms, one of them fur- 
nished with every convenience for the pastor's use as a library 
and study room. The other is designed as a committee-room. 

" The entrance into the main body of the church is made 
through a large vestibule, to which Ave ascend by a series of Con- 
necticut stone steps. On either side of the vestibule are Tudor 
doorways communicating with the side aisles, and a still larger 
one of the same order leading to the centre one ; on entering 
which, the eye is arrested by a beautiful prospect painted on the 
chancel wall, in the rear of the pulpit, forming a recess. ' The 
groined arches, clustered pillars, tessellated pavement, present 
the appearance of reality,' and make the recess seem to be much 
larger than it actually is, until a nearer approach dispels the 
illusion. The chancel is elevated from three to four feet above 
the floor, and the front is chastely ornamented with open-worked 
panels. The baptistery is placed in the centre of the chancel, 
and on either side of the chancel is a dressing-room. On the 
main floor are one hundred and twenty-four handsome pews, 
cushioned, and each capable of seating from five to six persons. 
The galleries contain about forty pews of diff'erent sizes. The 
fronts are ornamented with open-worked figures in the lancet 
form, each separated from the other by a pinnacle shaft. The 
front gallery is furnished with a fine-toned organ, from the ma- 
nufactory of Mr. George Jardine, of New York. The edifice is 
also adorned with well-executed coloured windows. 

" On the whole, this may be justly deemed the finest and most 

17 



258 HISTORICAL AND 

striking Baptist edifice in the State — a credit to the denomina- 
tion and to the enterprising society to whom it owes its erection. 
Their buikling cost, at least, $35,000." 

Rev. Tiberius G. Jones, an eloquent and devoted minister, an 
able writer, and an accomplished scholar, is pastor in charge of 
this beautiful church. 

June. The councils directed the enlargement of Ashland 
Hall, for the accommodation of public meetings. For some 
reason, it was not completed till October, 1852. It is now a 
large and airy building, with two spacious rooms — the lower one 
being the hall proper, for public assemblages, and the upper 
being the head-quarters of the Norfolk Junior Volunteers. The 
location is on Talbot Street, near the City Hall. 

During this month, and a portion of July, there was very little 
rain, and the weather was exceedingly warm, the mercury in the 
thermometer often as high as 96°. So oppressive and protracted 
a drought had not been experienced, perhaps, since 1785. Vege- 
tation sufiered much, the cisterns were empty, and the demand 
for water was great. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

1850. 

Steam-Packet Communication— Foreign Trade— Convention at Old Point- 
Sad Intelligence— Death of the President of the United States— Funeral Ob- 
sequies — Oppressive Weather — Tornado — Hon. Henry A. Wise — Internal 
Improvements — Canal from Norfolk to Albemarle Sound — Surveys — Mrs. 
Mary B. Johnston — Survey of the Harbour — Stone Wall— New Custom 
House — Powder Magazine— Church Street Paved— Its Former Condition — 
Advance in the Price of Property — Dry Weather — Doctor Mallory appointed 
Navy Agent— His Qualifications— George Loyall, Esq. — Colonel Garnett ap- 
pointed Collector of the Port— Conway Whittle, Esq. — Seaboard and Roanoke 
Railroad — Extension to Suffolk — Its Completion to Weldon. 

July 1st. A meeting of the citizens was held at the City 
Hall, for the purpose of appointing delegates to co-operate with 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 259 

those of Richmond, Baltimore, &c., who were to meet in conven- 
tion at Old Point, on the 4th, to consider the plan of establishing 
a steam-packet communication with Europe. 

Eloquent addresses were delivered, appropriate and spirited 
resolutions were passed, and fifty delegates were appointed. 

The convention of delegates assembled, according to appoint- 
ment, in the spacious ball-room of Old Point Hotel (which was 
tendered by John S. French, Esq.), at 5| o'clock, and the sub- 
jects of Direct Trade, and a Steam I^avigation Company, were 
duly considered. H. L. Kent, Esq., of Richmond, presided. 
Able addresses were delivered by Hon. John Y. Mason and 
Robert G. Scott, Esq., of Richmond, and George Blow, Esq., of 
Norfolk. 

July 10th. The sad intelligence was received of the death of 
General Z. Taylor, President of the United States. The flags 
were half-masted, and the bells were rung; and on Saturday, the 
13th, business was suspended from twelve till two o'clock, the 
bells tolled, and a feeling of deep solemnity seemed to rest upon 
the public mind in consequence of the death of the hero. 

July 17th. Stormy ; wind east ; increasing to a gale by mid- 
night, and continuing with great violence till eight o'clock on the 
18th ; prostrating a number of trees and fences, and unroofing 
some houses. The wind changed to the south in the evening, 
and to southwest at an early hour on the 19th, when, to use the 
language of an extravagant modern writer, "the orient beams of 
expanded morning burst asunder the fettering ties of the sombre 
shroud, which had trammelled the earth in its darkening folds." 

In Portsmouth on the 25th, and in Norfolk on the 26th, there 
were suitable and impressive funeral obsequies, in honour of 
the successful and illustrious conqueror, who had been suddenly 
called away from the performance of the duties of the most 
exalted station that earth affords. In each town, a long proces- 
sion, comprising the soldiery and very many of the citizens, 
marched through the principal streets, and an eloquent oration 
was delivered in Portsmouth by Captain S. Watts, and in Norfolk 
by T. C. Tabb, Esq. 

On the 30th, the range of the mercury in the thermometers 



260 HISTORICAL AND 

was ninety-six to ninety-seven, and on the following day it stood 
at ninety-four degrees. 

August 23d. A tornado of surpassing violence passed through 
the southern part of Princess Anne and Norfolk Counties, and 
several others west of those, leaving destruction and ruin in its 
track. Stout oaks and slender saplings were alike torn up by 
the roots, or snapped off at the trunk ; the fences Avere scattered 
like the leaves of the trees ; the corn was levelled, and the fodder 
separated into narrow, worthless shreds ; houses were lifted from 
their foundations, and the timbers scattered in broken fragments, 
by the force of the wind. Horses, cattle, hogs, poultry, &c., 
were driven furiously along ; and several persons lost their lives. 
As an evidence of the extraordinary power of the wind, a plough, 
standing in a field, was taken up and carried by the wind to the 
distance of two hundred yards. Those who were within the 
track of the hurricane, — which was only two or three hundred 
yards wide, — represent the occasion as one well calculated to 
appal the stoutest heart ; for the crashing noise made by the 
falling of houses, timbers, trees, and fences, was completely swal- 
lowed up and lost in the tremendous and furious sound of the 
Avind, which was heard for miles, like the rumbling of the distant 
cataract ; then increasing to an overwhelming continuous roar, 
like the breaking of the swollen surges of the great deep against 
the rocks, or the deafening thunders of Niagara. 

On the evening of September 26, Hon. Henry A. Wise, of Ac- 
comac County, of whom the reader will find some personal remarks 
on other pages, delivered, in Mechanics' Hall, a very able and 
eloquent address on the subject of connecting Norfolk and Ports- 
mouth with the interior, by means of railroads and canals. He 
alluded, in very appropriate terms, to great works of internal 
improvement now in progress, and in contemplation. He spoke 
with startling eloquence, and most convincing power of argument, 
of the reason that Norfolk is not already a great city, and of the 
means by which she may become a great southern emporium. 
The propriety and necessity of the contemplated canal from the 
southern or eastern branch of Elizabeth River to the waters of 
North Carolina, and other important improvements, were urged 
with great energy and clearness. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 261 

" One line of communication alluded to, was to commence at the 
head of the east fork of the south branch of Elizabeth River, a few 
miles above Great Bridge, from which point a canal, six miles in 
length, is required to connect with North River, in Virginia, which 
empties into Currituck Sound, and a canal, only three or three 
and a half miles in length, will continue the navigation from the 
lower end of Currituck Sound to North River, in North Carolina, 
which empties into Albemarle Sound a few miles below. The 
river and sound navigation, all the way from Norfolk to Albe- 
marle Sound, is never less than six feet in depth ; and if the 
canalling is made sixty feet wide, as is contemplated, the whole 
route will be the same as river navigation, with the exception of 
one lock only in the Great Bridge Canal." 

The following is an extract of a letter from G. P. Worcester, 
of New York, who surveyed the route of the proposed improvement. 

" By a reference to the maps of my survey, it will be seen 
that the line of water communication commences at the harbour 
of Norfolk, and continues up the Elizabeth River to Great 
Bridge, crosses the swamp by means of canal into North River, 
continues down the North River into Currituck Sound, through 
the Sound into a small bay, and crosses a belt of highland 
by means of a canal, into Doctor's Creek, opening thereby an 
easy and useful navigation with Albemarle Sound, and its tribu- 
tary streams. And, it is to be presumed, that after this line of 
water communication shall be completed, and a line of steam 
tow-boats in readiness, that boats, carrying the produce from 
the interior, and the coast of North Carolina, would daily tra- 
verse the entire distance from Albemarle Sound to the harbour 
of Norfolk, with a saving of labour and expense, and without 
any direct rivalry. And if any conclusion can be drawn from 
the amount of transportation which must necessarily follow, it 
must be admitted that this canal, when completed, will not only 
sustain itself, but make a handsome return for the capital ex- 
pended in its construction, besides enriching the counties through 
which it passes, by the reduced cost of transportation Avhich it 
will effect, compared with any facilities now in existence for that 
object. From the foregoing data as a basis, I think a canal of 



262 HISTORICAL AND 

fifty feet surface and seven feet depth, with the improvements 
of the navigation, may be estimated for the following sum." 

The estimate specifies the several amounts necessary for 
dredging, excavating, bridges, locks, &c., all of which amount 
only to the comparatively small sum of $131,386. 

A survey was made by Colonel Crozet, in 1840, of a canal 
route from Whitehurst's Landing, on the Eastern Branch near 
Kempsville, to the head of North River. The detailed estimate 
of the work of cutting the canal amounted, in the aggregate, to 
$380,000, including excavation, dredging, bridges, superinten- 
dence, &c., &c. The following is an extract of Colonel C.'s 
report : — 

" The appearance of the country is very deceiving. It was 
supposed to be much lower, and the work expected to be much 
less, than an actual measurement has disclosed. I fear that the 
estimate here exhibited will disappoint the expectations of some 
of the friends of the scheme ; but it is certainly preferable that 
they should have a full view of the difficulty before them, than 
to be taken unawares after having embarked in the enterprise. 
The difference of the tide in North River and Elizabeth River, 
the tide in the latter being that of the ocean, and the other re- 
gulated by the winds only, will be so small as to produce but an 
ordinary current on either direction, and, consequently, no locks 
will be required at the ends of the canal. But a bar may be 
expected to be formed at the opening into each river, by the os- 
cillations of the waters lifting up the sand into the canal ; this is 
an unavoidable evil in all such canals, and occasional dredging 
must be expected. 

" As regards the object of the canal, it would take a great 
deal of timber to market to Norfolk, from the extensive swamps 
of Currituck, Back Bay, and in North Carolina, as well as the 
common produce of the country, the cultivation of which it would 
promote and secure. Steamboats, and other crafts, M'ould pass 
this short route to Currituck, Albemarle, and Pamlico Sound ; 
and this would greatly benefit the commerce of the lower part 
of North Carolina, bordering on the Sound, and produce to that 
section of country, a short, safe, and easier way to market than 
by any other route, and particularly that by Ocracoke Inlet, the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 263 

only opening now remaining betAveen Pamlico Sound and the 
Atlantic, and which is not likely to have the fate of the former 
Currituck Inlet — a probability which favours the project under 
consideration. It will then be readily seen, that a very exten- 
sive country is included in this scheme ; but as regards the exact 
revenue and benefits to be derived from it, I do not think that 
any person is now qualified to make a statement to be relied 
upon. 

" The extent of the subscription, by the persons immediately 
interested, will be, I conceive, the surest and most decisive cri- 
terion to judge by." 

September 27. Departed this life at Lebanon, on Tanner's 
Creek, the seat of her late husband, Mrs. Mary B. Johnston, aged 
eighty-six, a native of Philadelphia. She had been a member of 
the Methodist Church for sixty years, and died in great peace. 
Her father fell in one of the battles of the Revolution ; after 
which she visited Norfolk ; but the only indications of a town 
to be seen, were immense heaps of ruins, and three new build- 
infTs. She came to attend to some business connected with a 
claim upon the Government, groAving out of her father's services, 
and meeting with Captain John Johnston, formerly well known 
in Norfolk, they were shortly after married. She witnessed the 
rise and progress of the town, from its ruins to its present limits 
and prosperous condition. She was one of the first resident 
Methodists in this section of the country, having had a distinct 
recollection of Bishop Asbury, and the first preachers who visited 
Virginia. A long and capacious room, in which her aged and 
cofiined remains were placed for the performance of the funeral 
solemnities, was built with a view to the accommodation of the 
small flock that gathered there in the early days of Methodism ; 
which has since increased from scores to hundreds and thousands. 
Verily, great works have been wrought, both temporally and 
spiritually, within the limits of one eventful lifetime. 

October 1. The Councils passed a resolution, requiring the 
appointment of a joint committee to inquire into the propriety of 
a survey of the harbour, with reference to an application to Con- 
gress for the purpose of running a stone wall from Town Point 
to Fort Norfolk. This was in contemplation many years ago. 



2G4 HISTORICAL AND 

Should the work ultimately be accomplished, it will prove a great 
and striking, though costly improvement to the harbour and to 
the city. 

The General Appropriation Bill passed at the recent session 
of Congress, very properly made provision for fifty thousand 
dollars for a new custom-house at Norfolk, — a building greatly 
needed here, in consequence of the dilapidated condition of the 
old one, and the anticipated increase in the commerce of the port. 

In 1852, the appropriation was increased to $100,000. The 
site chosen for the building is on the south side of Main, nearly 
opposite Granby Street. 

"The design is by A. B. Young, Esq., Government Architect. 
The building will front on Main, running back one hundred and 
thirty-five feet to Broad Water Street, and will be three stories 
high. The front basement is to be used for a post-office, the 
entrance to which will be on each side of the main entrance to 
the first story, which, together with the rest of the building, will 
be used for a custom-house. A porch extending the whole width 
of the building and supported by six columns will ornament the 
front, in the centre of which the main entrance will be. On 
each side of this entrance, there will be an entrance to the post- 
office. The structure is to be of granite and is to be finished in 
a plain and substantial manner, but when completed according 
to the plan will be one of the most imposing and showy buildings 
in the city." 

An extensive powder magazine is also to be erected by the 
U. S. Government, at the site of old Fort Norfolk. 

October 9th. On this day the centre stone-laying and curbing 
of Church Street, north of Town Bridge was completed by Mr. 
R. Dalrymple the contractor — distance, 11661 yards. The 
improvement was exceedingly necessary and important. This is 
the principal thoroughfare out of the city to Princess Anne, 
and a portion of Norfolk County, and yet in wet weather the 
traveling had been through mud, mire, and water, and in dry 
seasons, through the dust, Avhich rose in clouds, and was scat- 
tered by the winds, to the great annoyance of both travellers 
and residents. It is now a long and handsome though crooked 
street, and "aff'ords a wide field for the spirit of progress to 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 265 

pursue the onward work of improvement in. ' To it, then, 
my masters !' and let us see in the next ten years, the whole 
of the newly paved division of the street built up with handsome 
houses, and another application to the City Councils for autho- 
rity to pave the extended part of Church Street (or Centre Street 
at it should then be called), from its present terminus to Lind- 
say's Gardens. 

" The appreciation of lots on Upper Church Street goes ahead 
of everything we have heard of. We might safely say that it 
averages one hundred per cent. ; for in not a few instances, to 
our knowledge, it exceeds that rate. And yet this is not the 
result of a spirit of speculation ; for those who offer to buy do so 
with a view to build." 

The months of September and October were exceedingly dry 
for the season. To this date (15th October), there had been no 
rain for four or five weeks. 

November 1. Dr. Francis Mallory, of Elizabeth City County, 
formerly member of Congress, entered this day upon his duties 
as Navy Agent at this station, to which he was appointed as 
successor to George Loyall, Esq. This new appointment ap- 
peared to give very general satisfaction, inasmuch as the Doctor 
is not only well qualified for the discharge of the responsible 
duties of the office ; but he is also a gentleman of great 
urbanity of manners, whose private character is marked by a 
happy combination of agreeable social and moral qualities. 
He is, moreover, an able and zealous advocate of some of those 
measures which are believed to be well calculated to advance the 
prosperity of the city. 

An intelligent writer thus appropriately alludes to the appoint- 
ment : 

" I am pleased that the office has been bestowed upon the 
Doctor, than whom Virginia does not possess a purer and more 
courteous gentleman. Besides, his qualifications for its duties 
must be of a high order, from his practical knowledge of the 
Navy, and the interest he evinced in its extension and usefulness 
while a member of Congress. When removals are made, the 
intelligent friends of the removed cannot otherwise than feel 
gratified when the mantle falls on those equally deserving and 



266 HISTORICAL AND 

' patriotic — and not on the shoulders of professional office-seekers, 
and impertinent demagogues." 

Mr. Loyall had held the office for thirteen years, during which 
time he disbursed more than $14,000,000 of the public money 
without the loss of a cent to the treasury.* 

Colonel Wm, Garnett was, during the past year, appointed 
Collector of this Port, in place of Conway Whittle, Esq. Mr. 
W. had been in office for a number of years, and was also a most 
correct and faithful public officer. The present esteemed incum- 
bent, is considered well fitted for the discharge of the responsible 
duties of the office. 

Saturday, Nov. 9th. On this day the Seaboard and Roanoke 
Railroad (which takes the course of the old Portsmouth and 
Roanoke road) was completed to Suffolk ; and, by invitation of 
the obliging President of the Company, some five or six hundred 
of the citizens of Norfolk and Portsmouth made a trip in the 
cars to the above-named pleasant little town. The track is laid 
with the best imported T iron, and the road, thus far, is said by 
those well entitled to an opinion, to be one of the most level and 
best constructed in the country. This important work was com- 
pleted, in 1851, to the rich and fertile valley of the Roanoke. 

•^'' Mr. Loyall is a gentleman of no ordinary talents. The following remarks 
respecting his style as an orator, are from the pen of one who had listened to a 
political speech which he delivered more than twenty years ago. 

-;;- * * " His manner was pleasing and impressive; and his action evidently 
reflected that polish which true oratorical taste and long experience only can 
impart. His voice is full and its tones are remarkably distinct. 
* * * -if * 

" He advances openly and honestly in the demonstration of his subject. The 
main object of the investigation is perpetually exhibited to the eye of the un- 
derstanding, and the hearer follows the orator in the clear and luminous track 
of his argument, without being confounded by subtile wanderings, or bewil- 
dered by needless intricacies. His course is onward ; he is seldom fascinated 
by the golden glitter of an ornament, or begiiiled by the fading beauty of a 
flower ; his occasional illustrations do not appear to have been previously culled 
and collected, and are almost as well adapted for one subject as another; but 
they spring directly from the one under consideration. Hence, he invariably 
leaves a distinct and lasting impression on the mind of the hearer." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 2G7 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

1850. 

New Methodist Episcopal Church — Description of the Building — Workmen — 
Pew System — Seating of a Congregation — Pews and Free Seats — Dedication 
— Rev. J. E. Edwards — Membership — Dr. Doggett — Quarterly Review — La- 
belling the Streets and Houses — Census. 

In November, another liouse of worship was completed in the 
city, — the new Methodist Church, situated at the northeast cor- 
Her of Granbj and Freemason Streets, fronting on the latter. 
It is a very neat structure, of the Ionic order, fifty-five by 
seventy-five feet, covering an area of four thousand one liundred 
and twenty-five square feet, and measuring forty-five feet from 
the ground to the apex of the roof, and thence to the top of the 
cupola, sixty-six feet, making the entire height one hundred and 
eleven feet. The front is ornamented by a beautiful and hand- 
somely finished portico, with four large fluted pillars. The ex- 
ternal appearance of the church is singular and striking, although 
improvements could be made in the plan of this as well as other 
public buildings in the city. There is considerable raised and 
indented square work on the outside of the walls, which are well 
stuccoed, showing several diff'erent colours. The entrance is by 
two ascents of granite steps, which rise to a platform paved with 
hexagonal bricks. 

The seats, Avhich are in strict accordance with the "pew sys- 
tem," as it is generally called, have the appearance of rows of 
mahogany sofas ; being beautifully finished, and cushioned with 
fine black hair-cloth. They form a curve, from wall to wall, of 
an eio-hth of a circle. Two massive fluted columns rise from the 
floor of the pulpit, which is in a recess built in the rear. The 
pulpit-desk is a neat piece of joinery ; and the railing of the 
altar being handsome figured work, assists in giving beauty and 
appropriateness to the whole interior. On the first or basement 



268 HISTORICAL AND 

floor, is a commodious Sabbath school-room, besides four class- 
rooms, a passage, and a stairway. 

Architect, J. J. Husband ; Chief Carpenter, William Callis ; 
Bricklayer, H. E. Herbert ; Painter, B. W. Gatch ; Stone- 
mason, R. Dalrymple ; Plasterers, Hall and Brooks. 

Without intending our remarks to apply particularly to this 
edifice, we will observe, that although the pew-seat system has 
among its advocates some of the most worthy friends and pious 
members of the M. E. Church in Norfolk, it does not generally 
meet with the approval of the Methodists here ; being considered 
by some as an innovation of doubtful utility, if not an unwise 
departure from an established custom. But the objections to 
appropriated seats, although their introduction appears contrary 
to the economy of Methodism, as set forth in the Discipline, as 
Avell as to the advice of its sage founder, are surmountable here, 
as well as in England, and in diflerent parts of this country. 

The seating of a worshipping congregation is regarded by 
many persons, even among those connected with the Methodist 
denomination, as a matter wdiich may, with considerable pro- 
priety, be left to the choice of those Avho are most interested. 
There should certainly be large and commodious churches in 
every city, where all may enter and worship, the stranger as 
well as the citizen, of every grade, in one common, indiscrimi- 
nate mass ; and it will be conceded, perhaps, by all, that the 
free-seat system has long supplied this want. Yet it appears 
equally essential that there should be provision made for those 
who, being permanent residents, and settled in their religious 
views and feelings, desire particular seats, which they can claim 
as their own property, for the especial accommodation of them- 
selves, their families, and friends ; to which they can go without 
the embarrassment that often attends the search for a seat in a 
free church, especially when a strange and "popular" preacher 
officiates ; or on a bright and pleasant Sabbath morning ; where 
they may quietly sit, and in which they may be free from the 
annoyance during service of crowding, whispering, the fumes, 
stains, and odious sight of tobacco juice, and from a super- 
abundance of carbonic acid gas ; and free from the trouble, after 
dismission, of a search (sometimes fruitless) for the scattered 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 269 

members of the household, or for the man -with the wrong cloak, 
hat, cane, or umbrella. 

But even these difficulties and inconveniences might be pre- 
vented, it is thought, at least in a great measure, by abolishing 
the unnecessary and unreasonable custom of seating the males 
and females separately ; and there are many who are opposed to 
renting and selling pews, who would not object to the appropria- 
tion of particular seats for the accommodation of such families 
as prefer to sit and worship together. This method is adopted 
in some places, and works well. 

We allude to this question merely as a legitimate subject of 
local history, and yet without intending our remarks to apply 
particularly to this city ; for it is well enough known that pews 
have been introduced by the Methodists in their churches in 
many other places. We will add, that the wisest policy of all 
religious associations is to carry out those principles in their 
government Avhich eitect the greatest good to the greatest num- 
ber ; which aftord Gospel privileges to all classes ; which extend 
the genial influences of the Christian religion alike to the rich 
and the poor, the high and the low. 

We may state, in this connexion, that among the churches in 
this city that are furnished with pews, or appropriated seats, 
there are two, in which, although there are some vacant seats, 
there is seldom a pew for sale or rent. At the present date — 
December, 1852 — all are taken, all appropriated. 

It seems necessary that, in every house of worship, at least a 
small portion of the seats should be free, and their location well 
designated, even by the words "Free Seats," over the doorway 
leading thereto. A plan of this kind appears requisite, in view 
of the accommodation of strangers and others, who may not 
be able to rent or buy permanent seats. Nor can this plan 
always be superseded by the attention of the doorkeeper (if 
there be one) or the sparseness of the congregation. The free- 
ness of the Gospel, the sensitiveness of some persons, the general 
interests of the Church, and its great and benevolent mission in 
behalf of immortal souls, may all be mentioned in support of 
such an arrangement. 

The edifice to which we have alluded above was dedicated on 



270 HISTORICAL AND 

Sabbath morning, December 8th, of this year. An appropriate 
discourse was delivered on the occasion by Rev. John E. Edwards, 
the appointed minister for the first two years after its completion, 
and who was much esteemed by the members of his charge, as a 
fluent and attractive preacher. During his pastoral charge of 
the Cumberland Street station for two years preceding the erec- 
tion of the second church, more than three hundred additional 
members were received. 

A portion of the pews of the " Granby Street Church" were 
rented December 12th, at which time the membership numbered 
more than a hundred ; to which there has since been a conside- 
rable addition. 

Rev. David S. Doggett, D.D., an able divine, distinguished 
for his talents as a preacher, as well as for his superior literary 
attainments, was appointed to this station for the Conference 
year, beginning November 1st, 1852. Dr. D. served the church 
here in 1836-'37. He is now editor of the Quarterly Review 
of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, which he conducts 
Avith acknowledged ability, and which has greatly increased in 
popularity, circulation, and usefulness, since his appointment by 
the General Conference to so important and responsible an office. 

During the summer of this year, by direction of the Councils, 
signs of cast-iron, with the names of the streets, were put up at 
the corners and intersections, shortly after which, the houses 
were all numbered. 

The following table shows the aggregates of the three classes 
of population in the City, according to the census of this year, 
as taken by Deputy Marshall Wing, to which are annexed the 
aggregate of the same classes according to the census of 1840 : 



Whites, 

Free Coloured, 

Slaves, 


ISuO. 
9,068 
957 
4,295 


Dec. 


1840. 
6,185 
1,026 
3,709 


Increase 
2,883 

586 


1840, 


14,320 
10,920 


10,920 

of free coloured. 


3,469 
69 


Increase in 10 years, 


3,400 


3,400 



The above figures exhibit the remarkable result, that while 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 271 

our Avliitc population has increased in the last ten years at the 
rate of 46f per cent., the slave population has only increased 
in the ratio of 15f per cent. ; and there has actually been a de- 
crease of 6J per cent, in the free coloured population. The 
aggregate increase of the city population within the ten years, 
is 31^ per cent. 

The census-taker for Norfolk, in 1840, included the officers 
and seamen on board the Pennsylvania, and other U. S. vessels 
in port ; but in taking the last census, the Deputy Marshal was 
instructed to pursue a different course ; and therefore the actual 
increase in ten years, of the population, was nearly one thousand 
more than it appears to have been, according to the above state- 
ment. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 
1851. 

The Daily News — The Weather — Deaths — Caleb Bonsai, Esq. — Commodore 
Barron — The Chesapeake Affair — Decatur — Correspondence — Commodore 
Bainbridge — Capt. Elliot — The Duel — Barron severely Wounded — Decatur 
Killed — Commodore B.'s Social and Official Character — Death of a Venerable 
Lady — Simon S. Stubs, Esq., elected Mayor — Description of his Honour — Visit 
of President Fillmore — Gale — The Norfolk Directory and Statistical Register 
— Its Kind Reception — Acknowledgments — Encouragements — Its Utility — 
Opinions Respecting Norfolk— Erroneous Impressions Corrected — Notice of 
the AVork — Death of an Old Citizen — Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad — 
Severely Cold Weather — Fire-wood — Skating — Mineral Springs. 

January 1st, 1851. On this day was issued the first regular 
number of "The Daily News," T. F. Boothby & C. H. Beale, 
editors and proprietors. Terms, daily paper, $5 per annum, or 
10 cents a week, payable to the carrier. Country or Tri-weekly, 
$3 per annum, payable in advance. 

The character of its editorials, and the judgment manifested 
in its selections, as well as its typographical execution, give good 
evidence of the suitableness of its conductors to the important 



/ 



272 HISTORICAL AND 

duties whicli their responsible station enjoins upon them. The 
"News" is considered a valuable addition to the list of dailies in 
the city. 

"We desire," said the editors, in their first number, "to issue 
a truly independent paper, and this desire will be sedulously 
kept in view ; unbiassed by favour or affection, undisturbed by 
party prejudice, we wish to observe calmly the busy scenes and 
fierce turmoils of partisan warfare; and, if possible, by a word 
fitly spoken to soften the bitterness hitherto existing between 
the opposing ranks. At this era in the history of our country, 
momentous and big with important results, especially do we 
deem this course demanded by every sentiment of patriotism, 
by every obligation of duty." 

Since October, 1851, this paper has advocated with much 
ability the measures and doctrines of the Democratic party. 

The weather, during the month of January was unusually 
mild and pleasant for the season, until Wednesday, 29th, when 
the wind shifted to northwest, causing a very great and sudden 
change in the temperature, which increased until Sunday morn- 
ing, following. The weather for three days was exceedingly 
cold. Ridley's Pond, at the Springfield farm, Avas frozen suffi- 
ciently hard to afford good skating, and the coves of the river 
were also frozen over. 

April 21st. Departed this life, on this day, two of the oldest 
and most respected citizens of Norfolk, Commodore James Bar- 
ron, aged eighty-three, and Caleb Bonsai, Esq., bookseller, aged 
seventy-six. 

Commodore Barron was buried on the morning of the 23d, with 
distinguished military, naval, and civic honours, and Mr. Bonsai 
in the afternoon of the same day, with the marked evidences 
of respect, so justly due from those in whose midst he had lived, 
and whose esteem and affection he had enjoyed for so many years. 

Mr. B. was a native of the city of Wilmington, Delaware, 
and became a resident of Norfolk (pursuing the business of a 
bookseller and stationer) nearly fifty years ago. Possessing not 
only the requisite qualifications for business, but, in a high de- 
gree, those embellishments of mind and manners which are alone 
attainable by intellectual culture and refined associations, his 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 273 

career to wealth and eminence was onward and rapid. Other 
ties than those of business in due time bound his destiny to the 
community in which he had cast his lot ; and in the relations of 
domestic life he was distinguished by the most exemplary quali- 
ties of husband and father. In subsecpent years, he filled many 
places of public trust, and amply justified the confidence of his 
fellow-citizens by his fidelity to their interest. In all his trans- 
actions he was liberal and just; in his conversation he was 
characteristically sprightly and amusing, — often entertaining and 
instructive ; and all his impulses and instincts were in beautiful 
harmony with a kind and benevolent nature," 

" James Barron, the younger,* was too young to take part in 
the revolutionary struggle. He did not enter the service until 
1798 ; but by close attention to his duties, and a careful study 
of his profession, it was not many years before he reached the 
rank of Captain. In 1807, he commanded the ill-fated Chesa- 
peake. Every school-boy is familiar with the circumstances of 
her encounter with a British ship of the line, before whose su- 
perior metal she was compelled to strike her colours. It is well 
known that Captain Barron's surrender, after a brief contest, 
inflicted a severe blow upon our national pride, and under the 
smarting sense of Avhat was regarded as a disgrace, his character 
was assailed with accusations, which, of all others, are most de- 
grading to an officer in the navy. The public, ever prone to 
condemn unjustly, attributed his conduct on that occasion to 
cowardice ; and a court-martial, influenced undoubtedly by the 
prevailing prejudice, suspended him from his rank for a consider- 
able length of time. For this reason, he had no opportunity, 
during the late war, of erasing, by gallant deeds, this reproach 
from his name. All are familiar with the causes which led to 
the duel, in 1820, between him and the gallant Decatur, which 
terminated so fatally for the latter. We believe it is a well-au- 
thenticated fact, that on his deathbed, Decatur recanted all 
imputations upon Commodore Barron's courage, and acknow- 
ledged that he had taken up a wrong impression with regard to 

* He was a midshipman and aid to his father, who was Commodore of the 
Virginia State Navy of the war of the Revolution. 

18 



274 HISTORICAL AND 

his conduct in the affair of the Chesapeake. Certain it is, that 
an impartial posterity has since done him justice. lie has gone 
down to his grave, leaving behind him an irreproachable name, 
and the esteem and respect of a wide circle of friends." 

The following particulars of the duel may not be inappropri- 
ately inserted here. 

" On the 12th of June, 1810, Barron commenced the corre- 
spondence with Decatur, by addressing him as follows : 

" ' I have been informed in Norfolk, that you have said you 
could insult me with impunity, or words to that effect. If you 
have said so, you will no doubt avow it ; and I shall expect to 
hear from you.' 

" Decatur replied, on the 17th of the same month, disavowing 
the offensive expression attributed to him. Two other letters 
followed, explanatory of the first ; the correspondence ended for 
the time, and Decatur considered it at an end. Nearly four 
months afterwards, on the 23d of October, Barron again wrote 
Decatur, complaining of his attempts to injure him with his 
friends, and considering him as having expressed a willingness to 
meet him in the field, Avhich he regarded as an invitation to fight, 
he informed him that he accepted it. Decatur replied in an 
elaborate and insulting letter ; but disclaiming all personal 
enmity. Finally, after some further correspondence, Decatur 
left the sole adjustment of the terms of meeting with his friend, 
Commodore Bainbridge. On the 8th of March, 1820, Commo- 
dore Bainbridge was visited on board the Columbus, seventy-four 
(then lying in the Potomac, preparing for sea), by Captain Elliot, 
as the friend of Commodore Barron, for the purpose of making 
final arrangements for the meeting. 

" The duel took place at Bladensburg, near Washington City, 
on the 22d of March, 1820, and was fought with pistols, at the 
distance of eight paces, or yards, the shortest that is customary. 
This was done by the seconds to accommodate Commodore Bar- 
ron, wdiose vision was defective. On taking their stands. Com- 
modore Bainbridge informed them that he would give the word 
quickly, — 'Present! one, two, three;' and they were not to fire 
before the word 'one,' nor after the word 'three.' Commodore 
Barron observed to Commodore Decatur, ' that he hoped, on 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 275 

meeting in another world, they woiihl be better friends than they 
had been in this.' Commodore Decatur replied : ' I have never 
been your enemy, sir.' No proposal for reconciliation was sug- 
gested. The concerted words were pronounced by Commodore 
Bainbridge. At the word ' two,' both fired so exactly together 
that only one report was heard. Commodore Barron fell, 
wounded in the right hip, according to the announced intention 
of Decatur, who declared that he would hit Barron in that part 
of his body. Decatur stood for a moment erect, but was observed 
to press his hand on his right side. lie then fell, the ball having 
passed through the abdomen. He remarked : ' I am mortally 
wounded, — at least, I believe so ; and I wish that I had fallen in 
defence of my country.' He was raised, and supported a short 
distance, where he sank down exhausted, near to where Commo- 
dore Barron lay. The latter ' declared that everything had been 
conducted in the most honourable manner ;' and told Commodore 
Decatur ' that he forgave him from the bottom of his heart.' 

" Commodore Decatur was borne from the field to the home of 
his afflicted family, in the carriage which had conveyed him to 
the ground. He lingered in great agony until half-past ten the 
same night, when he ceased to breathe. 

" Commodore Barron slowly recovered from the effects of his 
wound, and was soon afterwards placed by the Navy Department 
on shore service. 

" In social life, as in his ofiicial station. Commodore Barron 
was governed by a high sense of honour, and bore himself with a 
dignity, courtesy, and aifability, which gave a charm to his 
society. And although of a temperament not to brook the 
slightest indignity, there was in his nature all the milk of human 
kindness and benevolence, and the promptings of ardent friend- 
ships and enduring attachments, which, when once formed, were 
held sacred to his latest hour. 

" In his family circle he Avas cherished with unspeakable fond- 
ness and affection ; and this Avhole community, in which he was 
for so large a portion of his life beloved and esteemed, will ever 
honour and revere his memory." 

April 24th. Died, this day, Mrs. Sarah Ingram, aged about 
ninety-two. 



276 HISTORICAL AND 

" This venerable lady was descended from the family of Cal- 
verts, who were among the early settlers of Norfolk. Her father 
moving to Philadelphia, married there, and there she was born, 
on the 22d of August, 1760. In 1773, he returned to Norfolk, 
and the subject of this notice, a few years after, married Colonel 
Thorogood, of Princess Anne County. 

"The Revolution had then commenced, and the British were 
overrunning this section of the State. Her husband being ac- 
tively engaged in the cause of liberty, she was left to provide as 
she could for her own safety ; and she chose to stand her ground 
at home, her residence then being near the site of the old Plea- 
sure House, at the 'Bay side.' As might be expected, she was 
not overlooked by the vigilant enemy, who made her house their 
head-quarters, much to her annoyance, though it gave her no 
alarm ; for she was a sturdy Whig, and resolute in her adherence 
to her country's cause. Being importuned by the officer in com- 
mand to write to her husband to take a parole of honour ' not to 
molest the British troops, on condition that he might go at large 
unmolested by them,' her reply was worthy of a heroine of the 
Revolution: '■ I ivould rather see Mm dead.' Her firmness and 
decision of character were suited to the times ; but the milder 
virtues of her sex shone conspicuous, and adorned the society in 
which she moved. Kind and affectionate in her family circle, she 
was not less devoted to the duties of charity and benevolence, 
and her greatest pleasure was in doing good by conferring bene- 
fits on the poor and needy." 

June 24th. On this day, Simon S. Stubbs, Esq., attorney-at- 
law, — a graduate of old William and Mary College, and formerly 
member of the General Assembly from this city, — was elected 
Mayor. 

Of course, Mr. Stubbs is not universally popular as an officer. 
His Honour does not give entire satisfaction to all. This should 
never be expected from any person holding such a station. As 
to the discharge of his duties in his official capacity, it has been 
said that he is too lenient with the accused and convicted, and in 
some of his decisions in the Mayor's Court, to incline sometimes 
to the side of mercy, when the demands of justice are thereby 
improperly withheld. xVnd yet, in such cases, when the trouble 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 277 

has been taken by impartial persons to ascertain the particulars, 
his course has been fully justified. 

Self-interest, passion, and prejudice, often blind the mental 
eye, even of the intelligent, when engaged in litigation or legal 
difficulties before a municipal ofiicer ; and then, a nice and just 
discrimination cannot be made by them between truth and error, 
or between innocence and guilt; and justice may seem to be 
wronged by withholding the severest penalties of the law in 
its strictest construction. Intelligence, thus blindfolded, leads 
and influences the ignorant, the thoughtless, and the loqua- 
cious. Then, the complaint, if not the outcry, is heard against 
the decisions of the calm, dispassionate, and impartial ofiicer, 
whose responsible duty it is to sit in judgment upon the conduct 
of his fellows. Besides, it is a humiliating fact, by no means 
creditable to human nature, that some persons delight in the 
punishment of others, and even manifest disappointment if the 
extreme penalty of the law be not inflicted upon the unfortunate 
and the guilty. To such persons Mercy ever pleads her cause 
in vain. 

These remarks apply, in some measure, to the administration 
of the present incumbent of the Mayoralty in Norfolk. His 
policy is not at all tyrannical. He does not inflict severe punish- 
ment when he believes a milder course will have the desired efi"ect 
upon the accused ; when this can be lawfully and safely adopted, 
and that, legally dispensed with. And, of course, he sometimes 
errs in judgment, as all others do. Competent as he is allowed 
to be as a judge of the law, and firm as he has often proved him- 
self to be when he has formed an opinion which he believes to be 
correct, still, he is probably in a situation that is uncongenial to 
his feelings and the general turn of his mind. Ever ready to 
sympathize with the unfortunate, retiring, unobtrusive as he is 
in his manners, and feelings, too, we should think he would pro- 
bably prefer to withdraw from the scenes of contention, crime, 
wretchedness, and human frailty, with which he is frequently 
and of necessity brought in contact, and with which it is his 
sworn duty to deal impartially. Yet, without adulation, we may 
say that he is deemed, by those who know him best, to be a dis- 
creet and attentive ofiicer, who is ready to give his decisions 



278 HISTORICAL AND 

promptly, after duly weighing the evidence and all the attending 
circumstances, in every case of importance that comes before 
him. 

Mr. Stubbs is one of the most unostentatious men in the city, 
possessing little or no aristocracy; and as to mere pride of office, 
if he has any, it is in too small a measure to be observable. 

Though but little on the shady side of forty, he is a man of 
much experience in the diversified affairs of life. His sound, 
discriminating, practical knowledge of a great variety of subjects 
is, perhaps, inferior to few in the city. This is, of course, much 
to his advantage as a municipal officer. 

As an orator, he could, if he desired it, soon acquire conside- 
rable distinction ; although, as an extempore or off-hand speaker, 
we do not admit that he greatly excels. He appears, on some occa- 
sions, to lack fire, and a sufficiency of those energetic, quickening 
impulses, so essential in a public speaker, and which, at a moment's 
notice, sometimes, thrill the heart, animate the spirit, and excite 
the popular mind to action. Nevertheless, he certainly has the 
ability to be very happy in his oratorical efforts ; of the truth of 
which we could, if necessary, adduce very satisfactory evidence. 

Finally, as a writer, he is clear and perspicuous. The pro- 
ductions of his pen give evidence of a mind accustomed to close, 
patient, and careful investigation, with the capacity to grapple 
with error in defence of the claims of truth, morality, and sound 
principles. 

Mr. S. is a native of Gloucester County, Virginia. 

On this day, Millard Fillmore, the President of the United 
States, who had been for several days sojourning at Old Point, 
visited Norfolk and Portsmouth. " The steamer Engineer, with 
the President and his suite on board, reached the wharf at Nor- 
folk at three o'clock, when he was received by the Mayor, 
Recorder, Aldermen, and City Councils, and under a military 
escort of the Artillery Blues, Junior Volunteers, and Academy 
Cadets, proceeded to the National Hotel, where his Excellency 
and the Secretary of the Interior were introduced to as many of 
the citizens as could find admittance through the dense crowds 
which filled every avenue to the audience-chamber. A generous 
flow of feeling to honour a President of the United States, who, in 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 279 

a trying crisis, had maintained the peace of the country hy his 
steady devotion to the Constitution, regardless of sectional in- 
fluences, seemed to pervade all classes and all parties ; and, in- 
deed, it may be said, at least for this occasion, that the ' monster, 
Party,' was strangled." 

August 25th. Severe storm from the southeast. 
A Directory and Statistical Register of the city, edited and 
published by the writer of these sketches, made its appearance this 
month. It was very favourably received, quite liberally patro- 
nised, and generally circulated. It contains the names, profes- 
sions, places of business, and residences, of the merchants, traders, 
manufacturers, mechanics, heads of families, &c., in the city of 
Norfolk ; a list of the public buildings, with their relative posi- 
tion ; the names and situations of the streets ; a register of the 
public officers, companies, associations, and institutions of learn- 
ing, in Norfolk and Portsmouth ; an account of the situation, 
improvements, natural advantages, and commercial resources, of 
the two towns; officers of the Navy Yard; the steam-packet, 
railroad, and stage lines and routes ; distances to other places ; 
rates of commission, storage, wharfage, and postage ; rates and 
rules of interest and discount ; directions about notes ; the rivers, 
bays, mountains, railroads, colleges, resources, and obligations of 
Virginia ; the courts, census returns, public appropriations, quali- 
fications of voters, and law of taxation ; officers of the Federal 
and State Governments ; and a variety of other statistical and 
miscellaneous information, carefully collected from authentic 
sources. 

The very kind reception of this work, the generous disposition 
manifested by an enlightened community to encourage and sus- 
tain it, and the patronage which was readily and ungrudgingly 
bestowed, placed its author under many obligations, while it 
proved that no inconsiderable number of the people of Norfolk 
are ready to foster an object that may appear in some measure 
worthy of their regard, and which frankly and fairly asserts its 
claims to their support. 

To the respected and intelligent gentlemen at the head of the 
Press, in Norfolk, Portsmouth, Richmond, &c., for the very 
polite and complimentary manner in which they were pjeascd to 



280 ' HISTORICAL AND 

notice his work — for the strong and significant terms employed 
in recommending it to the favour and patronage of the commu- 
nity, he tenders his sincerest thanks. Commendations of so 
pleasing a nature, so beneficial and so efiicacious, from those 
whose sagacity and experience justly entitle them to an opinion, 
were scarcely expected. Nor should he fail to embrace the pre- 
sent occasion to express himself in terms of respectful acknow- 
ledgment, for the many assurances of approbation, and testimo- 
nials of commendation, received from other sources, of great 
respectability and intelligence. He does not choose to affect a 
stoical indifference to those kind evidences of approval. They 
are gratifying, and are duly appreciated. Such expressions of 
approbation are not unfrequently of real value, and often exert 
a salutary influence upon the efforts of man. Falling upon the 
ear like the soft and soothing melody of music, they sometimes 
reach down deep into the heart, and rouse into exertion the 
slumbering faculties of the drooping soul ; while the chilling 
breath of discouragement often withers, and effectually blights 
in the bud, the humble effort to benefit society, or even, in some 
degree, to increase individual happiness. True generosity of 
soul forms a striking contrast, especially in relation to new en- 
terprises, to the calculating, contracted, and discontented spirit, 
sometimes manifested amid the diversity of human character, 
which not only withholds support and encouragement, but seeks 
to disparage the works of others, and even repines under some 
circumstances, at their success ; a frailty, by the way, which is 
generally betrayed by its possessor, who rarely succeeds in his 
efforts to conceal its existence, or to hide his moral deformity 
from the eye of scrutiny. 

It has afforded the writer much pleasure to learn, from many 
patrons of the Directory, that it has been found useful, especially 
to men of business, and to strangers visiting the city. It is 
gratifying also to be apprised of the fact, that it has proved 
beneficial, interesting, and instructive, to persons unacquainted 
with Norfolk — its size, government, commercial facilities, &c. 
Indeed, it was not supposed, until after the experiment, which 
to some appeared of doubtful utility, had been tried, that it 
would cr,eate an agreeable surprise in the minds of intelligent 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 281 

citizens, even of Virginia, with regard to the seaport of the 
State. 

There are many thinking, practical, and intelligent men, Avho 
believe that Norfolk, at some not very distant period in the his- 
tory of the world, will be a great city. Every person, who 
thinks upon the subject at all, knows well enough that the place 
is not what it ought long since to have been. But there are 
some also who have thought, or who have, at least, appeared to 
think, that it is far inferior to what it really is, in extent, im- 
provements, business means and sources of wealth, and facilities 
for extensive commercial transactions. The writer has long 
been aware of this fact ; and, as the circulation of the work is 
not confined to Norfolk, nor even to the State, it appears that 
it has tended, in some measure at least, to remove prejudice, 
correct false impressions, elicit favour, and inspire confidence; 
and he regards this as not the smallest item in the compensation 
which he has received, for the labour and pains bestowed upon 
an undertaking, which, although it has found favour with many, 
has also been regarded with apparent indifference by, at least, a 
few, who, it was thought, would be most anxious, for several rea- 
sons, to afford their encouragement and patronage. 

The following, from a Norfolk paper, is one of the complimen- 
tary notices of the work by the Press : — 

" It is truly a valuable, and to everybody throughout Virginia, 
who feels a proper concern in the affairs of one of its chief com- 
mercial marts, a manual of much interest and convenience. It 
is not more desirable from its accurate record of our population, 
their pursuits and locations, and its judicious arrangement 
throughout, than as a valuable compendium of the statistics of 
our city, exhibiting its business concerns, its commercial facili- 
ties, public and private edifices, institutions, mechanical skill and 
enterprise, in their best attractions, and furnishing so truthful a 
view of the rapid progress and improvements of our beautiful 
little city, as cannot fail to enlist an interest in its welfare, at- 
tract new residents, and inspire all with a conviction that our 
destiny, as a commercial city, is upward as well as onward. 

" Finally, its typographical execution is in the best style of 
that invaluable art ; and the entire work commends itself to the 



282 HISTORICAL AND 

patronage of all our citizens, not only by its intrinsic utility, 
but as a stimulant to enterprise, industry, and good taste." 

Tuesday, November 4. "Died, at his residence in this city, Mr. 
John M'Phail, in the seventy-eighth year of his age. Born in 
Glasgow, Scotland, he came, in early life, to this country, and, 
for more than half a century, had been a resident of this city. 
Mr. M'Phail took an active part in the formation of the First 
Presbyterian Church in Norfolk, and, for many years, filled the 
office of a ruling elder in that church." 

Thursday, November 27. The Seaboard and Roanoke Rail- 
road was this day completed to Weldon, N. C. 

" The cars left Portsmouth at half-past eight o'clock in the 
morning, crowded to excess with passengers, and reached Weldon 
in three hours and a half, running time — distance eighty miles. 
The train from Wilmington had already arrived with a large 
number of passengers, from that city and its neighbourhood, 
who, mingling with their friends from Virginia, a cordial welcome 
was reciprocated and felicitations were mutually passed on the 
joyous occasion of opening this new commercial and social 
medium of communication between their two States." 

December. The weather, for a portion of this month, was 
severely cold, and Wednesday the 17th was the coldest day, so 
early in the season, within the last seven years, according to 
those who pay attention to the seasons. 

The winter of 1851-52, was the coldest that has occurred 
here for fifteen years or more. Fire-wood at one period sold as 
high as $8 per cord. Whitehead's Pond frequently presented a 
most interesting and exciting scene ; hundreds of men and boys 
being engaged in the delightful exercise of skating, while large 
numbers of the fair sex gathered upon the shores of the pond, 
and upon the thick ice, to witness the sport. 

Some time during this year (1851), "the congregation of the 
Methodist Episcopal Church worshipping in the small frame 
edifice known as ' Zion's Meeting-house,' two miles from the city, 
on the Lambert's Point Road, caused a well to be dug on their 
lot. The work was undertaken by Mr. Whitehurst, whose land 
adjoins the lot a few feet from the spot selected for the well. 
When he had dug to the depth of about fifteen or eighteen feet, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 283 

he struck a spring from -wliicli issued water very strongly im- 
pregnated with alum — so much so as to render it utterly unfit 
for ordinary use, and it proved to be in reality a bona fide aluvi 
spring. Such a discovery almost anywhere else would have pro- 
duced quite a sensation in the neighbourhood, and led to imme- 
diate steps to bring it into notice and turn it to account. But 
here, for the period of nearly a year, it seems to have been re- 
garded almost with indifference, and it was not until the curative 
efficacy of the water had been tested in some obstinate cases of 
disease that it begun to attract the attention due to its import- 
ance." 

" The ' Alum Spring,' as it is called, bids fair to be a place of 
general resort. All who have drank of its waters — and their 
name is legion — testify to their wholesome properties, and it is 
thought by many that the spring will prove a source of great 
benefit to our city, by attracting persons to spend the summer 
months here for their health, instead of seeking for that sine qua 
non in the mountains or on the sea-shore. The water contains 
alum and iron in large quantities — heavy deposits of both are 
precipitated by letting it stand for a short time, or by heating 
it ; and physicians have pronounced it very valuable as a tonic 
and remedy in a great many complaints. The spring being 
on church property, the public are at liberty to go there and 
drink to their heart's content. The ride is one of the most plea- 
sant in the neighbourhood — or the distance may be walked with 
ease over a shady road." 

A valuable mineral spring was also discovered, in 1851, on the 
Magnolia Farm, owned by David Jordan, Esq., of Nansemond 
County. Magnolia is fourteen miles from Norfolk, and about 
three from Suffolk ; and the Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad 
runs directly past the residence of Mr. Jordan, a circumstance 
greatly in its favour. 

" Professor Stewart, of Baltimore, to whom the test was con- 
fided, has pronounced it to be probably one of the most efficient 
and valuable medicinal waters in the world. It combines the 
properties of the Saratoga with that of the White Sulphur waters ; 
and may be said to represent perfectly the water of the far-famed 
Harrowgate Springs. Professor Stewart in his report says: 'I 



284 HISTORICAL AND 

have never met with any mineral water that appeared so highly 
charged with sulphuretted hydrogen ; and Avhen you have a 
copious spring so easy of access, in our own country, that possesses 
the qualities of the celehrated Harrowgate Springs of England, 
I should think it hardly possible that you should fail in obtain- 
ins: for it the commendation of our most eminent medical men.' " 



CHxVPTER XXXVII. 

1852. 

Ordinance — Virginia Bank in Portsmouth Robbed — Conviction and Sentence of 
one of the Robbers — Cokl Weather — River Frozen Over — Remarkable Hail- 
storm — Destructive Effects — Work on Internal Improvements, cfec. — Judge 
Baker — Clerk of Court — Commissioner of Revenue — Commonwealth's Attor- 
ney — Wm. T. Hendren, Esq. — Internal Improvement Meeting — Norfolk and 
Petersburg Road — Able Discussion — Mayoralty — Candidates — Election of 
Officers — Objectionable Feature in the Law — City Officers — Councils — Me- 
lancholy Intelligence — Death of Henry Clay — Funeral Obsequies — Proces- 
sion — Oration — The Weather — Death of the Oldest White Inhabitant — New 
Catholic Church in Portsmouth — Patrick Piobinson's Bequest — Death of 
Billy Ingram, the Oldest Coloured Inhabitant — Incidents in His Life — His 
Great Physical Strength — Coincidence — Corporation Scrip, in Sums of §100, 
f50, and $1— Intelligence of the Death of AVebster— Wm. B. Lamb, Esq.— 
Doctor Cowdery — Illumination, &c. — Agi'icultural Fair — Commendable Dis- 
play of Agricultural Productions — Premiums — Princess Anne County — Bri- 
tish Consul — Line of Packets to New York — Railroad Subscription. 

1852, January 1st. On this day, an ordinance called "the 
Cow Law" went into operation. Cows, wdiich had been allowed 
to go at large in every part of the city, and get into all kinds of 
mischief, to the great annoyance of the citizens, generally, and 
to the women and children, particularly, are now kept in enclo- 
sures, or driven without the city limits. It is manifestly a wise 
and necessary law ; in support of which several very good rea- 
sons could be mentioned. There are, nevertheless, many per- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 285 

sons ■who pronounce it unnecessary and unjust. The wonder is 
that it was not passed fifty years ago. The propriety of passing 
the law was urged in a communication from Mayor Stubbs to the 
Councils. 

Jan. 18. On the morning of this day, it was discovered that 
the Branch Bank of Virginia, in Portsmouth, had been robbed of 
a large amount. The entrance was made by means of crowbars, 
drills, &c., through a window in the rear of the building, and 
through the doors and bars of the vault to the money, of which 
the thieves took, in gold, silver, and notes, about $66,000. In 
September, a man named Rand, of Boston, Avas convicted of 
being concerned in the robbery, and sentenced to ten years' im- 
prisonment in the penitentiary. Other persons were arrested, 
but Rand was the only person convicted. On account of some 
informality in the proceedings, he was granted a new trial ; but 
he got out of prison and made his escape, as also did one Jack 
Stevens, who had been confined in the same jail, some months 
before, on the same charge. At the date of this writing (Decem- 
ber, 1852), the money has not been recovered. This, however, 
does not injure the credit of the bank, which is in a sound and 
prosperous condition. 

On the 23d of this month (January), the Elizabeth River was 
frozen over from shore to shore, for the first time in a number of 
years. The ice was not sufficiently thick, however, to obstruct 
navigation. 

April 8th, Thursday. About five o'clock on the afternoon of 
this day, a very dark and heavy cloud arose rapidly from the 
west, and soon the inhabitants of Norfolk and vicinity witnessed 
one of the most remarkable and destructive hail-storms with 
which this section was ever visited. The frozen balls, as large 
as marbles, fell in great quantities — the wind blowing from the 
west. The storm was attended with wind, flashes of lightning, 
and heavy peals of thunder. Much damage was done to vege- 
tables and fruit ; and window-glass to the amount of thousands of 
dollars was demolished. 

May. About the first of this month was issued in the city, by 
the writer, a work of about one hundred pages octavo, with the 
following title : 

" Norfolk and the Interior ; or, Railroads extending from the 



i^ 



286 HISTORICAL AND 

Seaboard through Virginia, North Carolina, Tennessee, &c., to 
the Great Valleys of the West : being a Compendium of Facts 
and Statistics, showing the Prospective Benefits of Internal Im- 
provements to the Seaport of Virginia ; together with State- 
ments relative to the Commerce and Commercial Facilities of 
the City of Norfolk : to which arc added, the Business Cards of 
Merchants, Manufacturers, &c." 

. An edition of about one thousand copies was taken by the 
merchants. The following remarks comprise a portion of a no- 
tice of the Avork by the American Beacon : 

" It contains many interesting facts relative to the commercial 
advantages of our city in connexion with the various railroads 
that are built, and are to be built, connecting us with the great 
West and South. All who feel an interest in the prosperity of 
Norfolk, will find this work exceedingly interesting and instruc- 
tive, and will be well compensated for the time by reading it." 

May 27th. On this day Richard II. Baker, Esq., a gentle- 
man of great worth of character, and high legal distinction, was 
re-elected Judge of the Circuit Court, an office wdiich he has filled 
with ability for a number of years. John Williams, Esq., an old 
and faithful incumbent, was re-elected Clerk of the Circuit 
Court, and Finlay F. Ferguson, a most efficient officer, was re- 
elected to the office of Commissioner of Revenue.* 

On this day, also, Wm. T. Hendren, Esq., was elected by the 
people Commonwealth's Attorney for the Circuit Court. He holds 
the same relation to the Hustings Court of the city, having been 
elected thereto under the new constitution, June 24th, 1852. 

His fellow-citizens have evidently manifested great confidence 
in his talents, legal intelligence and good judgment, by appoint- 
ing him to so responsible an office, especially in view of the fact, 
that he is quite a young man ; and it is believed there will be no 
reason to think that their confidence is misplaced. We may 
appropriately say, that Mr. Hendren possesses a sufficient 
amount of talent and experience to sustain the character and 
dignity of the office. His mind is active, vigorous, and well 

* The late William B. Lamb, Esq., a venerable and most estimable' citizen, 
formerly Mayor, long held the ofiice of Sergeant of the city, and his son, Wm. 
AV. Lamb, Esq., has been for years the esteemed and faithful Deputy Sergeant. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCIIES. 287 

cultivated. His educational advantages, and his early oppor- 
tunities as a lawyer, Avere sucli as to bring out and dcvelope the 
strength of his intellectual faculties, at an early age ; and his 
friends have not yet been disappointed in their expectations with 
regard to him. Yet, it may be admitted that his mind, like that 
of many others, who have nevertheless come to judicial distinc- 
tion, is rather too much after the fanciful, poetic order, to find the 
most congenial and successful field for mental effort, in deep and 
profound legal investigation and research. 

It is gratifying to observe, that when changes are made in 
offices of responsibility, which have been long held by able, and 
faithful persons, young men are chosen, who may justly and 
fairly assert their claims upon the confidence of all classes of the 
community. 

jNIay 12th. Internal Improvement Meeting, held on "Wednes- 
day night, in Mechanics' Hall, in relation to the proposed rail- 
road from Norfolk to Petersburg. It was numerously attended, 
and its proceedings were highly interesting and satisfactory. 
The magnitude and importance of the subject under considera- 
tion were presented, and the resolutions before the meeting were 
discussed, with marked ability and sound judgment, by Messrs. 
Harrison, Robertson,* A. F. Leonard, R. E. Taylor, and others. 
Mr. L. "delivered an admirable speech, which went largely into 
the merits of the subject, and demonstrated by incontrovertible 
facts the certain success and countless advantages which vrould 
result to our city from the proposed railroad." 

June 24th. Simon S. Stubbs, Esq., re-elected Mayor. The 
other candidates were Colonel Simon Stone, Major Samuel T, 
Sawyer, and Captain Wm. D» Delany. On this day the principal 
officers of the corporation, were, according to Act of Assembly, 
elected by the votes of the people, instead of being appointed by 
the Councils, as heretofore. f Owing to a singular and unneces- 

'" Mr. Robertson ■was, in October, 1851, elected to represent the city in the 
General Assembly. He is a young gentleman of strong and active mind, im- 
proved by a liberal education. His high moral worth of character, together 
with his talents and legal qualifications, combined to make him the choice of a 
majority of the voters of the city, for the above station. 

J The votes of the citizens were taken on the adoption or rejection of this 
law, the majority being in favour of adopting it. 



288 HISTORICAL AND 

sary provision of the act, requiring the name of each voter to be 
announced by the Sheriff, "with that of the candidate, and then 
recorded ; it was found impossible to receive all the votes. Very 
many persons were therefore compelled to forego the privilege 
of voting. This disfranchisement, as may be supposed, gave 
great dissatisfaction. The objectionable feature in the law will 
be repealed. 

The following arc the principal officers chosen by the voters, 
according to the new law regulating the city elections : 

Register, Jos. H. Robertson ; Attorney of the Hustings Court, 
Wm. T. Hendren ; City Attorney, Hunter Woodis ; Clerk of the 
Court, John Williams ; Assessor, Finlay F. Ferguson ; City Col- 
lector, Wm. H. Hunter ; City Inspector, Gary Fentress ; Sur- 
veyor, John Williston ; Gauger of Liquors, &c., James M. Steed ; 
Keeper of Almshouse, Wm. Hawkins ; Physician to Almshouse, 
Dr. Geo. W. Cowdery ; Clerk of the Market, Eli Cuthriell ; 
Wood-measurers, John R. Wyatt and F. A. Johnston ; Keeper 
of Magazine, Chas. W. Constable ; Hay-weigher, H. F. Hard- 
ing ; Sealer of Weights and Measures, Thos. R. Lee ; Captain 
of the City Watch, E. Guy. 

The following appointments were, according to law, made by 
the Governor : Inspector of Salted Provisions, Alexander A. 
Martin ; Inspector of Flour, James M. Steed ; of Lime, William 
Loyall ; of Naval Stores, Alexander M. Cunningham. 

The following are some of the appointments made by the 
Councils : 

Wright Southgate, Chr. Hall, H. B. Reardon, T. G. Brough- 
ton, Sr., and Wm. Selden, Board of Health ; F. F. Ferguson, 
Chief Engineer, Fire Department; Jas. M.. Steed and D. W. 
Glass, Assistant Engineers ; Jas. Cornick, Jacob Vickery, and 
Horatio Moore, Port Wardens ; Jas. L. Hipkins, J. S. Fatherly, 
Wm. Drew Roberts, Harbour Masters. 

The following gentlemen were on this day elected to compose 
the Common and Select Councils, according to the Ward system 
of voting : 

First Ward.— J. B. Whitehead, John Williams, F. W. South- 
gate, R. W. Silvester, W. T. Harrison, N. C. King, G. W. 
Camp, E. C. Robinson, Josiah Wills. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 289 

Second Ward.— Wm. Denby, Sr., G. W. Bluford, W. F. Meal- 
lory, Wm. Ward. 

Third Ward.— H. B. Rcardon, C. Hall, R. Capps, John Dick- 
son, T. G. Broughton, Sr., A. L. Hill, W. D. Roberts, Jr., 
S. March. 

Fourth Ward.— J. G. H. Hatton, Francis Mallory, C. F. Stone, 
R. II. Chamberlaine, J. R. Spratley, T. J. D. Reilly, W. Phil- 
lips. 

Wm. D. Roberts, Jr., Esq., was chosen President of the Select 
Council, and John Williams, Esq., President of the Common 
Council. 

June 29th. On this day was received in the city a telegraphic 
despatch, announcing the sad intelligence of the death of the 
great statesman, Henry Clay. The bells were tolled, the flags 
of the shipping were half-masted, and a general feeling of gloom 
and profound sorrow was manifested. 

July 1st. This being the day appointed for the funeral of 
Hon. Henry Clay at Washington, business was suspended, and 
the bells were tolled from twelve till three o'clock. 

July 21st. This day having been set apart, at a public meet- 
ing, for the city to pay a suitable tribute to the memory of Mr. 
Clay, the funeral obsequies accordingly took place ; and they 
were of a most solemn and impressive character. The pageant 
was truly grand ; and all parties united in showing their respect 
for the lamented and illustrious dead. Business was again sus- 
pended. The authorities, societies, companies, naval and military 
officers, &c., with a very large concourse of citizens, including 
very many from Portsmouth, Hampton, &c., as well as from the 
counties of Norfolk and Princess Anne, formed a long procession, 
which, after marching through the principal streets, assembled 
in the Methodist Episcopal Church on Cumberland Street, where 
a very able, impressive, and appropriate oration was delivered by 
Dr. F. Mallory. 

There had been but light rains, with long seasons of dry 
weather, for several years, until about the middle of this month, 
from which time, for many weeks, it rained heavily ; and " more 
rain fell than during the entire two years previous." 

August 19. Died, this day, Mrs. Elizabeth Martin, aged 96. 

19 



290 HISTORICAL AND . 

She was the elder sister of Mrs. Ingram, whose death is men- 
tioned April 24, 1851. Mrs. M. was, in all probability, the 
"oldest (white) inhabitant." Her sight was much impaired, but 
she conversed sensibly, and walked unsupported about her house, 
only a short time before she died. From Mrs. M., we obtained 
some interesting revolutionary details, which, in all probability, 
would never have been recorded, but for the timely conversations 
which we sought opportunity to have with this ancient and vene- 
rable descendant of one of the oldest and most respectable fami- 
lies of the borough. 

A new Catholic Church was commenced in 1851, in Ports- 
mouth, which, at the close of the following year, was rapidly 
approaching its completion. It is situated on the north side of 
High Street, on the site of the old building. The style is 
purely Gothic ; and it is, indeed, a beautiful structure. The 
steeple, which is very handsome and well-proportioned, and a 
considerable portion of the main building, are plainly seen 
from the harbour and the Norfolk side, forming a very striking 
ornament to our sister town. The size of this edifice is 57 by 
84 feet; cost $17,000. 

In 1809, Mr. Patrick Robinson, an Irishman, bequeathed an 
estate to the pastor of the old church, which has been recently 
sold for $7,750, and vested in the new church. 

Friday, October 15th. Billy, a servant of the late Mrs. 
Sarah Ingram, died in this city on this day, at the age of one 
hundred and seventeen years. " He was a native of Hanover 
County, Virginia, born in the service of Peter Garland, Esq. ; 
was at Norfolk when it was burnt in 1776, and was pressed into 
his Majesty's service by Governor Dunmore. He was at the battle 
of Great Bridge, and remembered all about the siege of York- 
town. Billy was strong, hale, and heart}*-, even to the day of his 
death. He was employed as a drayman until he was seventy- 
five years old, and at the age of sixty-eight could roll a hogshead 
of sugar weighing fifteen hundred pounds, on his dray without 
assistance. He was always good-humoured, well-disposed, and 
scrupulously honest. It is a remarkable coincidence, that for 
the last sixty years he lived in a family, three of the inmates of 
which, have died within the last two years, two at the ages of 
ninety-two and ninety-six, and one at the age of seventy-six." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 291 

Saturday, October 16tli. The Select Council on this day called 
up and passed the bill from the Common Council (which had 
passed that body on the 18th of February last, and been laid on 
the table in the Select Council), making provision for the issue 
of corporation scrip to the amount of $20,000, in sums of $50 
and $100, bearing six per cent, interest ; and $10,000 in sums 
of one dollar, bearing an interest of one half of one per cent, per 
annum.* 

October 25. On this day, was received in the city, intelligence 
of the death of Daniel Webster. There was a very general ex- 
pression of sorrow on account of the loss the Union had sustained 
in the death of its greatest statesman and diplomatist. The 
flags of the shipping, &c., were half-masted ; and on the 26th, 
minute guns were fired in commemoration of the illustrious dead. 
How great, how learned, how Avise a man had fallen ! But his 
fame is world-renowned, and he needs no eulogy here. Truly, 
the writer did not imagine that the demise of both Clay and 
Webster would be alluded to on these pages, and in one and the 
same chapter. 

November 14. Died, this day, Wm. B. Lamb, Esq., aged 
eighty-nine, " one of the few remaining patriarchs, whose founda- 
tions of future usefulness and distinction, as members of our 
community, were laid in the last century." He was an alderman 
of the Borough from 1803 till 1810 ; and mayor from 1810 till 
1815. " Well does the writer remember," says a respected 
citizen, " with what fidelity and at what sacrifice of time and 
personal comfort, he discharged the duties of that ofiice (then 
without emolument), during the period of war, from 1812 to 
1815, when the preservation of public order within the town 
often called him from his family at all hours of the night, and 
not unfrequently during the entire night. His judicious and 
energetic course on such occasions was always effective, and his 
services were duly appreciated by his fellow-citizens. 

"In 1815 he was elected President of the Virginia Bank, and 
continued in that ofiice till his resignation in 1827, when he 
accepted the ofiice of Sergeant, conferred on him by the Hustings 

* At a subsequent meeting of the Common Council, the Committee on Ordi- 
nances were directed to bring in a bill to repeal this ordinance, and an amend- 
ment thereto, passed November 9. 



292 HISTORICAL AND 

Court of Norfolk, and -which he held at the period of his death 
— the greater part of the time by the suffrages of his fellow- 
citizens." 

November 20. Died, this day, aged eighty-five. Doctor Jona- 
than Oowdery, the oldest surgeon, and the -oldest officer "in the 
United States Navy. He chose Norfolk as his home and the 
residence of his family, nearly fifty years ago. 

" In all the relations of life, he was a most exemplary gentle- 
man, and will long be remembered and venerated by the citizens 
of this city, to whom he has been so familiarly and kindly known, 

" He was a native of Massachusetts, and after graduating in 
one of the medical colleges of that State, he entered the navy 
more than half a century ago, and has faithfully and uninter- 
ruptedly served in his useful department, in peace and in war. 

" He was one of the medical officers of the frigate Philadelphia 
in 1803, when that ship, under the command of Commodore 
Bainbridge, and whilst in pursuit of the Tripolitan corsairs, ran 
upon a reef and fell into the hands of the enemy. Along with 
Porter, Jacob Jones, Renshaw, Biddle, Patterson, and other young 
heroes, who afterwards so signally illustrated the naval history of 
our country, he was thrown into the prison of Tripoli, and whilst 
there it was the good fortune of Dr. Cowdery to render impor- 
tant professional service to the Bashaw, during a severe illness ; 
which had also the happy effect of mitigating the rigours of the 
confinement of his fellow-prisoners. It was an event of much 
note at the time, and added greatly to the professional reputa- 
tion of the young surgeon, especially as the medical attendants 
of the royal Mussulman were wholly unable to relieve their 
patient. In the war of 1813-'14, and since that time, at home 
and abroad, his services have been efficient." 

November 22d. On the evening of this day, during a heavy 
fall of rain, the Democrats celebrated their late victory, by il- 
luminating their houses, by fireworks, marching through the 
streets, &c. 

" The houses of the Democracy, were generally illuminated, 
many with great taste and display of wreaths, flags, and trans- 
parencies. Nothing occurred to mar the enjoyment of the occa- 
sion, except the heavy fall of rain, and that was not sufficient to 
dampen the zeal of those who participated in the demonstration." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 293 

On the 23d and 24tli of this month, the first Fair of the Prin- 
cess Anne Agricultural Society was held, at the beautiful village 
of Kempsville. The enterprising farmers of that county deserve 
much praise for the extensive display which was made on the 
occasion, of stock, grain, fruit, vegetables, poultry, kc, kc. ; and 
too much cannot be said in commendation of the exhibition of 
articles of domestic manufacture — the handiwork of the indus- 
trious matrons and fair maidens of the county. 

" On Tuesday, the first day of the Fair, the committee of ar- 
rangements having, by ten o'clock, classified and marked the 
various deposits intended for exhibition, the judges proceeded to 
discharge their duties of examining, reporting, &c. 

"At twelve o'clock," continues the report of the committee, 
" the gates were opened for the admission of spectators, and in a 
short time the whole enclosure presented a very interesting and 
animated appearance. 

" The cattle, both of blooded and of native stock, were very 
fine ; and among those of the blooded stock, were a large num- 
ber which would do credit to any fair in the country. Praise is 
richly due to our own citizens, and especially to many farmers 
of the surrounding counties, who, with much trouble and ex- 
pense, exhibited largely on the occasion, and contributed much 
in giving interest and variety to the Fair." 

" A large shed, forty feet long, was filled with various samples 
of the choicest and finest market vegetables, some of enormous 
size ; and it may well be doubted, whether any of the northern 
agricultural fairs could have competed with us in this branch. 
The large and fine collection of agricultural implements and ma- 
chines exhibited by Messrs. March and Borum, of the neigh- 
bouring city of Norfolk, deservedly attracted universal attention. 

"A house about sixty feet in length was appropriated to ar- 
ticles belonging to the dairy, and the various branches of do- 
mestic economy ; and the delicacy of the arrangements, and the 
beauty of the display in this department, excited general admi- 
ration, and showed at a glance, without any mention of the fact, 
that it was under the management and supervision of the ladies. 

" This Fair, which, before its occurrence, was regarded by 
some as a doubtful experiment, has far exceeded public expecta- 



294 HISTORICAL AND 

tion ; and its triumplijint success should be a subject of rejoicing 
to the members of our infant society, and to the friends of agri- 
culture in this section of our State. It proves beyond all con- 
troversy, that the farmers of the extreme eastern portion of Vir- 
ginia, have the spirit and the means to present an agricultural 
fair "which can equal, in variety and interest, local exhibitions of 
the same kind in any part of the country. 

" On Wednesday, the second day of the Fair, a ploughing 
match took place, the address was delivered, and the premiums 
awarded. The ploughing match, an exciting and well-conducted 
contest, took place in a neighbouring field, the spectators mani- 
festing milch interest in the result. 

" The largo concourse of spectators having returned to the 
grounds, the Hon. F. Mallory, himself a practical farmer, who 
had politely consented, on invitation of the society, to be the 
orator of the occasion, having been presented to the audience by 
E. H. Herbert, Esq., the President of the Association, delivered 
a practical, interesting, and instructive address of about an hour's 
length, on the subject of agriculture. 

" The address being concluded, the President of the Society 
proceeded to read the award of premiums made by the several 
committees of judges. 

A long list of premiums has been published. We record, with 
pleasure, that one was awarded to Mr. Edgar Burroughs, of 
Princess Anne, for an essay on worn-out lands ; and another to 
Doctor Wm. Tatem for an essay on draining. It was found that 
the best-conducted farms were those of Captain James Cornick, 
and Messrs. Thomas Ballentine, Wm. S. Wright, Wm. Godfrey, 
and E. H. Herbert. 

The committee on agricultural productions reported that there 
were four competitors for the best acre of corn, to wit : J. N. 
Baxter, D. M. Walke, Jonathan Hunter, and Thomas Ballen- 
tine ; that the product of the first was 87 bushels, the second 72 
bushels, the third 68fj bushels, and the fourth GQ bushels, and 
awarded the premium for the best acre to J. N. Baxter; for the 
best acre of wheat to Edgar Burroughs ; for the best quarter 
acre of rutabagas, to James R. Walke, the product being 71| 
bushels of roots, weighing 58 pounds to the bushel. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 295 

This is said to be the first fair of the kind ever held in Vir- 
ginia, and the " eminent success which attended the cft'ort, will 
inspirit the farmers of Princess Anne and of other counties in 
this district to repeat it. They have set the ball in motion, and 
shall it stop here ? No ! Let it roll onward through every dis- 
trict and county in the State." 

" The county of Princess Anne is destined in a few years to 
become the garden spot of the State. (The same may be said 
of a large portion of Norfolk County.) Independent of its 
proximity to navigation and its inexhaustible piscatorial re- 
sources, it contains, to the extent of its territory, a larger body 
of valuable and productive land than any other county in Vir- 
ginia. In 1852, one of its enterprising farmers realized from 
eight acres near eleven hundred dollars ; and pitched on the 
same land a second crop, which probably brought him five or six 
hundred dollars more. Such a profitable yield from the same 
area of cultivation is hard to beat in any part of the United 
States. A judicious system of agriculture is now being intro- 
duced in the tillage of the soil of this county, and its public- 
spirited farmers are making every effort to promote improve- 
ments in this noble pursuit." 

G. P. R. James, Esq., the celebrated English novelist, having 

been appointed British Consul for Virginia, to fill the vacancy 

occasioned by the death of Mr. Waring, the former incumbent, 

arrived in Norfolk this month, and entered upon the duties of 

'office. 

Mr. James is "rather below the general stature; stout in per- 
son, with a somewhat measured, theatrical walk. He is exceed- 
ingly prepossessing in appearance, has a fine, large, expressive 
eye, commanding forehead, regular features, and is, apparently, 
about fifty-two years of age." 

December. About the first of this mouth, a new line of packets 
between Norfolk and New York, was established by some of the 
merchants of the former place. 

On the 10th of this month, the councils, in accordance with 
the wishes of a majority of the voters of the city, appointed a 
committee to subscribe $200,000 to the capital stock of the Nor- 
folk and Petersburg Railroad Company, with certain provisions, 



296 HISTORICAL AND 

one of which is, that, if the road is built, there shall be a satis- 
factory connexion with the Southside Road, at or near its ter- 
minus in Petersburg. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

Opinions respecting Norfolk — Mr. Jeiferson's Prediction — Views of Mr. Madison 
— Unwise Legislation — Internal Improvement — James River and Kanawha 
Canal — Products of the West — The Norfolk Market — Productions of the 
Forest — Coal — Railway to the Pacific — Norfolk the Commercial Centre of a 
large Extent of Country — Coasting Business — The Harbour — The Norfolk 
and Petersburg Piailroad — Its advantages — Surveyor's Report — Convention 
at Union — New Orleans and Memphis Pioad — Norfolk the Atlantic Terminus 
— China and East India Trade — The Consequences — Weldon and Gaston, 
and Clarksville and Ridgway Roads — Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad — 
Subscriptions by the City — Arrangements of the Company with the City — 
Ferry and Bridge Connexion — Trade — City Subscription — Baltimore Steam 
Packet Company — ^Wilmington and Manchester Road — North Carolina Road — 
Charlotte and Columbia Road, &c. — Continuous Lines from Norfolk — Enter- 
prising Men Wanted — Enterprise and Progress — Supineness, Neglect, and 
the Downward Tendency. 

In this chapter we present a few remarks, from our pamphlet 
on the means, resources, and prospects of Norfolk, and which 
were originally intended for this work. 

Many judicious and reflecting men have entertained the 
opinion that Norfolk would, at some future day, rival the 
greatest cities of America. They who felt a deep interest in 
the welfare and prosperity of our State, long ago expressed their 
convictions in significant terms on this subject. The views of 
the gifted Jefferson, whose powerful mind seemed to penetrate 
deeper in the uncertain future than that of most other men of 
his day, are familiar to the intelligent reader. The author of 
the Declaration of Independence, examined the different loca- 
tions and resources of various sections of this great country, and 
especially those of his own loved Virginia ; and when he de- 
clared that Norfolk would be the "great Emporium of the Chesa- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 297 

peake," his opinion had been formed from a knowledo-c of the 
advantages of commerce possessed bv this particular site. Its 
deep, capacious, and land-locked harbour, its central position on 
the Atlantic coast, its mild climate, and its exhaustless regions 
of back country, south, west, and northwest — these had been 
duly noticed by the sage of Monticello, and his inference was, 
that they must, if properly appreciated and improved, render 
this port the pride of the State, the chief exporting and import- 
ing city of Virginia, and of the South. 

There was another master mind that turned hitherwards — 
another distinguished son of the Old Dominion — whom she and 
the Union delighted to honour — who freely expressed himself 
with regard to this location. The accomplished Madison con- 
curred with Jefferson in his views about the facilities of this port 
for extensive commercial transactions. He declared it to be '■Hhe 
true interest of Virgmia to foster the j^rosperity of Norfolk, as 
among the jjrime objects of her 2')olicy.'' But sad to say, Virginia, 
or rather, her misguided legislators, did not heed these words of 
wisdom.* They lost sight of the "true interest" of the good old 
commonwealth, and while other states "fostered the prosperity" 
of their chief seaports, our law-makers wasted the resources of 
the State on wild and unproductive schemes, and discoursed most 
eloquently indeed, upon "abstractquestionsof political economy," 
until the chief avenue to wealth and greatness was well-nigh closed, 
our resources became comparatively dormant, and our treasures 
passed oif to enrich other states. Hence the declination of 
Virginia from the first to the fourth state in the Union, and 
from "one-fifth to one-fifteenth of the political power of the con- 
federacy, "f 

We now give the views of several individuals of experience 
and sound judgment relative to works of internal improvement 
and other matters in which Norfolk is deeply interested. 

* " The State lias expended §20,000,000, principally intended for the improve- 
ment of Richmond ; and the trifling sum of $190,000 for the benefit of Norfolk, 
all of which latter sum has been repaid up to this date to §2,357, including the 
$9,500 they received from the last Dismal Swamp Canal dividend." 

f These, and some other remarks of ours on this subject, were copied from 
a certain work, and erroneously published as the production of another. 



298 HISTORICAL AND 

> » I' The James River and Kanawha Canal," says a writer of 
much ability, and of close observation, " will afford a Southern 
water line of transportation for the heavy products of the West, 
which must be, for a long period of the year, without a compe- 
titor, owing to the ice in the waters north of it. Such articles 
of commerce as would pass upon a canal in preference to a rail- 
road, would prefer this, for the reason that it would lead to the 
nearest Atlantic harbour, and consequently the cost upon it 
would be the least for internal or domestic transportation. A 
canal boat at Columbus, Ohio, laden with pork, hemp, tobacco 
- or iron, would greatly jyrefer going to Norfolk upon this canal, 
to passing through the lakes and the Erie Canal, to New York, 
if the market was as good at the one place, as the other, for the 
simple reason that the distance would be greatly shorter and the 
navigation much safer from interruption by ice and from the 
dangers of the lakell The market uwtild be as good at Norfolk 
as Neiv York, because the trade would be intended for foreign 
nations, and of course the foreign price would regulate that at 
the port at which it would be purchased for transportation. A 
common standard would regulate the price at both ports, and 
would of course render it uniform. It is plain, therefore, that 
such trade as would prefer water carriage, and as now reaches 
New York from the heart of Ohio, would find its Avay to the 
ocean through Virginia, by means of her canal. But the trade 
of Ohio, and the West, is not by any means the only inducement 
offered for the completion of this work. I will hazard the 
opinion, that the timber of our forests bordering upon the line 
of the canal, and accessible to it by Avay of the Upper Kanawha, 
or New River and its tributaries, Avill in a few years produce to 
Virginia a larger sum of money than the whole amount required 
for completing the canal. I doubt if in America there are to be 
found such forests for ship-builders as those growing in the sec- 
tion of country referred to. The completion of this Avork will 
also open a thoroughfare for the transportation of coal from the 
prolific mines of Kanawha, Coal, and Guyandotte Rivers to Nor- 
folk, which would make that city the depot whence the whole 
steam-marine of the Atlantic would be supplied with fuel. The 
discovery of cannel coal in that quarter of the State, in large 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 299 

quantities, and of the most superior quality, establishes beyond 
doubt the fact that, with a cheap mode of transportation, the 
best fuel in the world for steam would bo supplied at Norfolk 
cheaper than any accessible point on the Atlantic border. The 
coal and timber trade from the western part of our State, would 
alone make the stock in this canal productive. 

''^ single glance at the map will present Norfolk as the At- 
lantic terminus of the contemplated railway to the Pacific, and 
also as the best point of departure from the United States to 
Europe and the Mediterraneali. She will also become, next to 
New York, a commercial centre of importation for the West, and 
southwest portions of the Union, being geographically the com- 
mercial centre of a larger extent of country than any other At- 
lantic city. /Her position is pre-eminently advantageous to the 
wdiole coasting business of the United States, being in fact the 
only good harbour on the Atlantic coast south of Nev/ York, and 
more favourably situated than any other port to distribute the 
agricultural products of the interior along the whole seaboard of 
the Union. 

" The Norfolk and Petersburg Railroad, when viewed in its 
proper light, and its important bearing upon the railway economy, 
not only of our own State but of the whole country, cannot but 
strike the reflecting mind as one of the most essential lines of 
intercommunication w^hich are now either in contemplation,' or 
under actual construction, ' to unlock those rich treasures so much 
needed to invigorate the commercial enterprise,' not only of our 
seaboard towns, and our own back country, but of the whole 
South and West, from Memphis on the Mississippi, to Cincinnati 
on the Ohio. It is the last, but by no means least, link in the 
grandest scheme of internal improvement ever projected in the 
United States, forming, as it were, the trunk of a gigantic tree, 
deriving soil for its nourishment at Hampton Roads, and ramify- 
ing with its immensely long branches. Western Virginia, Ohio, 
Indiana, Illinois, and even Missouri ; Southwestern Virginia, 
Tennessee, Kentucky, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, 
and Arkansas ; and it may, at no very distant day, thrust one of 
its topmost leading limbs, even to the Pacific Ocean, while its 



300 HISTOKICAL AND 

tap root is insinuating its minute fibres into every European 
port; 

" This road (the contemplated line from Norfolk to Mem- 
phis, via Petersburg), -will be one thousand and thirty miles 
long, — of the same gauge throughout, -without break — and Avith 
I only two regular termini ; one of them being Memphis and the 
other Norfolk. 

" This one thousand and thirty miles of road will be but a 
BASE LINE, or trunk, with which twenty or thirty other tributary 
railroads will unite, and in which they will merge themselves. 
Most of the tributaries will be of the same gauge ; others will be 
of a different gauge. That I am within the mark, you will at 
once see when I can mention seven in Virginia alone, that Avill 
mingle with the main line. And for all these roads (within 
certain limits) Norfolk will be the most convenient outlet." 

We condense from the Surveyor's Report, the following in- 
teresting particulars : 

" The survey commences at the intersection of Main and Wide 
Water Streets (at the Draw-bridge), crossing the Eastern Branch 
and the County Road in a southerly direction. Three miles from 
Norfolk, it takes a southwesterly course, and crosses the Southern 
Branch and the Dismal Swamp Canal, at a distance of six miles 
from the starting-point ; thence a more westerly course to Suf- 
folk, making the entire distance from Norfolk nearly twenty-one 
miles, which, compared with the distance from Suffolk to Norfolk, 
via Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad, of eighteen and a quarter 
miles, is a loss of two and three-quarter miles, which loss is but 
a secondary thought, taking into consideration the peculiar situ- 
ation of Norfolk, and the advantages which it is believed will 
accrue to that city, by this direct communication of her wharves 
and warehouses with the avenues to the Western trade. 

;!; ;<: >]: ;J; >!; >i< ^ 

" At Suffolk, the line crossing the Seaboard and Roanoke 
Railroad near the depot, takes a northwesterly direction toward 
Petersburg, and from this point will compare favourably with any 
other road in the country in point of directness." 

The following remarks are from the report of the delegates 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 301 

from Norfolk to an Internal Improvement Convention, held in 
Union, in this State, in September, 1852 : 

" The undersigned, from a careful investigation and consider- 
ation of statistics and other information relating to this important 
subject, express their belief that, upon the perfection of the great * 
Western line of improvement, from Norfolk to the valley of the 
Mississippi and of the Ohio, an important trade and travel must 
ensue, which will not only contribute largely to the treasury of 
the Commonwealth, but must necessarily inure to the prosperity 
and great advantage of Norfolk, presuming always that the pro- 
per energy exists here to avail itself of the vast resources which 
will thereby be rendered tributary to our city. 

" In concluding their report, the undersigned cannot omit a 
reference to the solicitude for the advancement of Norfolk, which 
was very generally evinced by the members of the Convention. 
The most of them seemed to anticipate with commendable pride, 
a speedy and permanent connexion with our city, — and were san- 
guine that the recommendations of the Convention, if entertained 
by the Legislature, must not only greatly conduce to the develop- 
ment of the vast and wonderful resources of the State, but that, 
by the same means, Norfolk would be enabled to assume that 
position as a commercial mart to which her admirable advantages 
justly entitle her." 

" ' The New Orleans and Memphis Road, if ever built,' says 
an intelligent correspondent of the Daily News, ' must terminate 
on the Mississippi, at Memphis. San Diego or Monterey will be 
its Pacific terminus, and in the event of the road from Norfolk to 
Petersburg being built, Norfolk will be its Atlantic terminus. The 
China and East India trade generally, must pass over the road. 
What then, I ask, will the consequences be to Norfolk, if some 
eighty or one hundred steamships (this may seem extravagant to 
some, but not to you, for you are one of the progressives) ply to 
and from her wharves, — hundreds of thousands of people passing 
through her yearly,'" &c. 

The city of Norfolk subscribed, in accordance with the vote of 
the citizens, the sum of $200,000 to the Weldon and Gaston, to 
the Clarksville and Ridgway, and to the Seaboard and Roanoke 
Railroads ; $75,000 being the amount appropriated to the latter. 



302 HISTORICAL AND 

" In consideration of tliis subscription, the President and Di- 
rectors of the Company oftered to the city all the facilities neces- 
sary to an efficient connexion by ferry with their road, and for 
the transportation over it of freight and passengers, to or from 
Norfolk, on terms of fairness and equality." 

" If, after a trial of five years, commencing ^yith the subscrip- 
tion by the city of §200,000 to the roads above mentioned, or 
from the completion of the Seaboard Road to Weldon, the ferry 
transportation should, in the opinion of the Councils, be found 
unsatisfactory, the Seaboard Road guarantees to the city of 
Norfolk a connexion with said road by means of a branch rail- 
road, commencing at the engine shop or outer depot of said road, 
near the outer limits of the town of Portsmouth, and connecting 
by means of bridges Avith the city of Norfolk by the nearest 
practicable route over the southern branch of the Elizabeth 
River which may be sanctioned by the Legislature of Virginia. 

" To this compact, has been obtained by the Railroad Com- 
pany, the assent of the Trustees of the town of Portsmouth, as 
will be seen by reference to their resolutions enclosed to the 
Committee by the President of the road — thus avoiding future 
difficulty here or elsewhere, that might possibly grow out of this 
arrangement between the City and the Seaboard Company. 

"By the employment of $200,000 of the credit of the city in 
the shape of a subscription to these works, our trade and busi- 
ness will reap the same advantages as if Norfolk had expended 
$1,500,000 on her own account. Others, including states and 
individuals, have provided six-sevenths of the amount expended, or 
required to complete the line of improvements from Norfolk to 
Raleigh and Clarksvillc, and we are called on to supply the re- 
mainder. This the people have directed to be done, provided, 
in the judgment of the Councils, a suitable arrangement could be 
made with the Seaboard Road and other interests." 

Some time before this arrangement was effected, Norfolk pro- 
posed to subscribe $200,000 to the capital stock of the Seaboard 
Company, as embraced in the estimate of cost, between Ports- 
mouth and the intersection of the Raleigh and Gaston Railroad ; 
and also to subscribe the further sum of $100,000 (or more, if 
the cost should exceed this sum), to construct a lateral road, ac- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 803 

cording to the report of Mr. Williston, by Avhicli tliis city should 
connect ■with the main stem : in consideration that the Raih'oad 
Company would keep the lateral road in repair, and transport 
passengers and freight as cheaply to Norfolk as to Portsmouth, 
&c., &:c. 

The polls were opened for the votes of the people to he taken 
upon this subject, and a considerable majority were in favour of 
the subscription, with the understanding that the southern and 
eastern branches of the river should be bridged, and a train of 
cars should arrive at a depot in the city. The authority to con- 
struct the bridges was, however, not allowed by the Legislature 
— a most determined opposition having been made by Ports- 
mouth — and the subscription was accordingly declined. An 
arrangement has since been effected with the Baltimore Steam 
Packet Company, by which the two lines are connected ; the 
Baltimore Company having taken the remaining stock unsub- 
scribed for on certain conditions agreed to by the Railroad 
Company. 

The ^Ycllington and Manchester Railroad is rapidly progress- 
ing. This, with the Seaboard and Roanoke, &c., will make a 
continuous line of eight hundred and sixty-eight miles from Nor- 
folk to Montgomery, Alabama. 

The North Carolina Road, from Raleigh to Salisbury, with t 
the Charlotte and Columbia Road, will make a continuous line 
from Norfolk in that direction. 

The Virginia and Tennessee Road, the Nashville and Chatta- 
nooga Road, the Memphis Road, with the Norfolk and Peters- 
burg Road (should it be built), or with a connexion between the ' 
Virginia and Tennessee and the Clarksville and Ridgway Roads, 
will form a continuous line from our city to Memphis on the 
Mississippi. 

"The an-frreo-ate of lines now made or being made, to concen- 
trate upon Norfolk, amounts to more than two thousand miles of ! " 
railway," extending through, perhaps, the richest and most pro- 
ductive section of the Union." 

But more men of active enterprise, enlightened, liberal, com- 
mercial enterprise and zeal, there must be, to make the best of 
these immense prospective sources of greatness and wealth ; let 



304 HISTORICAL AND 

there be a larger number of these ; put down sectional jealousies 
and narrow-hearted prejudices ; and let us have wise, impartial, 
and prompt legislative action and concurrence, and Virginians will 
ere long be proud of their commerce, of their exports, and of the 
splendour of their cities. But without these great essential ele- 
ments of progress, in these days of activity and effort in all other 
sections, they may dream, and hope, and speculate, philosophise, 
and elucidate, but all will be in vain ; and the commercial ten- 
dency of this noble old State, of matchless natural advantages, 
will be comparatively downward and backward continually. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Commercial Position — Why Norfolk has not advanced more rapidly — Other 
Cities — Norfolk and Boston — Virginia and Massachusetts — Formerly Flou- 
rishing Commerce of Virginia — Norfolk AVaking Up — Internal Improvements 
— Obstructions must be removed — Produce must find an Outlet at this Port 
— Means of Access — Products of Virginia, North Carolina, &c. — Improvement 
apparent in Norfolk — Back Counti'y — Land in the Vicinity — Centralizing 
Action — Western Trade — Railroads, Steam-Packet Lines, &c. — Effect upon 
the Commerce of the State — Erroneous Impressions relative to the Storage 
of Tobacco — Adaptation of the Climate to its Preservation proved — Testi- 
mony of the Merchants — The Climate of Norfolk — Warehouses — Inspectors 
— Merchants — Flour, Wheat, &c. — Means of Access. 

It is not surprising that the observant traveller looks around 
and expresses astonishment at what he beholds here, or that the 
enterprising and reflecting men of the present days of progress, 
improvement, and wonderful prosperity, in almost every other 
direction, should be amazed on taking a contemplative view at 
what is very generally acknowledged to be, with scarcely an 
exception, the best commercial position to be found upon the 
shores of the "whole boundless continent."* 

* The contents of this and a portion of the succeeding pages of this chapter, 
were inserted in the Norfolk Directory, having been taken from the manuscript 
of this work. 



DESCKIPTIVE SKETCHES. 305 

It is an unpleasant and undeniable fact in the history of this" 
noble seaport, that its vast advantages have neither been properly 
estimated nor developed. In consequence of the formerly unkind 
spirit and unfriendly policy of Great Britain with regard to our 
navigation, and the necessarily restrictive measures of Congress 
in relation to the trade of the West India Islands and elsewhere, 
as well as the strange and injudicious course of the Legislature 
of the State, in refusing the necessary encouragement and assist- 
ance to, and even placing restrictions and checks upon, commerce ; 
and owing, it must also be acknowledged, to the want of a suffi- 
ciently strong and vigorous spirit of enterprise on the part of 
many of the inhabitants, the prosperity of our port is sadly diffe- 
rent from what it should be ; its manifest facilities for greatness j 
have been disregarded and neglected, and many enterprising men 
have been reluctantly compelled to look elsewhere for a profitable ^ 
investment of their funds, while others have toiled here long Avith- \ 
out realizing an advancement commensurate with so favourable a 
position. 

Some have laboured entirely in vain; but many able, ener-l 
getic, and persevering individuals, becoming weary and impatient 
on account of the indifference in regard to the most important 
interests, and of the tardiness of the law-making powers in 
cherishing and appropriating the inestimable gifts of Nature, 
have gone north, south, and west, in search of a more promising 
and profitable field of labour. Nor have they sought in vain ; 
for, while there has long been but little regard paid here to the , 
improvement of great advantages and abundant means of wealth, 
others have failed not to appreciate those which were compara- 
tively inconsiderable. While the people of this section of the 
Old Dominion have appeared to be satisfied with a slow and 
gradual progress, and have seemed quite willing to wait and 
calmly submit to the sad result of delay, towns and cities pos- 
sessing no advantages over this in regard to location, and, in 
many cases, greatly inferior natural facilities, have arisen, pros- 
pered, and, by a commendable union of industrious personal 
effort, have long since taken a dignified stand in the nation. It 
is needless to direct the reader's attention to New Orleans, Boston, 
Philadelphia, Baltimore, Cincinnati, St. Louis, &c. It is morti- 



806 HISTORICAL AND 

fjing even to allude to the startling disparity between our city 
and New York, the great commercial emporium, of the North, the 
South, and the West. But observe, for instance, the contrast, 
humiliating though it is, presented by the ports of Norfolk and 
Boston ; a contrast owing, in a great measure, to the astonishing- 
difference in the commercial policy pursued by the governments 
of two States, which admit, by the way, in some other respects, 
at least, of an agreeable comparison. With the wonder-working 
power of the eloquence and patriotism of their sons, and the in- 
vincibility of their arms, these two old colonies stood conspicu- 
ously together in the trying days of the Revolution ; and their 
instrumentality assisted greatly in raising high the undulating 
waves of public sentiment, until they broke in resistless fury 
against the strong towers of British tyranny and oppression. 
Though divided by space, and vastly unequal in size, they battled 
furiously and fiercely together in behalf of liberty, amid peril, 
and blood, and death. The one gave to the world John Adams, 
and other noble spirits of the Revolution ; the other produced 
her Henry, and other fearless men of that eventful period ; and 
they united in calling out America's greatest son to be the chief 
actor in that long and bloody contest for justice and freedom. 
May the rude, wicked, and silly attempts of blind fanaticism never 
prove sufficient to tear asunder the ties of sympathetic regard, 
made strong by mutual efforts, long past, though well remem- 
bered, to cement and build up for time this great national fabric ! 

Before the commencement of the struggles of the Revolution, 
Norfolk, as is well known, was an exceedingly prosperous commer- 
cial town ; and since those " days that tried men's souls," Virginia 
has justly boasted of her flourishing commerce, her many great 
ships and wealthy merchants, and rejoiced in the bright antici- 
pations of the future. Behold how far the old Bay State has 
stridden ahead of the Old Dominion in this respect. How vast 
the difference now ! and how manifest the cause of the almost 
incalculable advantage which she presents to the world ! It is 
needless to particularize with regard to facts so familiar even to 
the schoolboy. 

But what, we ask, has Nature done for Boston in point of 
commercial facilities, more than for this identical position ? Able 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 307 

statesmen and skilful merchants have answered the question, and 
the reply is, emphatically, notldng — that could not have been 
readily overbalanced by artificial means, properly employed, and 
sustained by systematic, judicious, patient effort, and enterprise. 
But a glance at a map of the country is only requisite to esta- 
blish the truth of this statement. 

Let it be remembered, however, that all of the intelligent and 
respected citizens of Norfolk and Portsmouth have not remained; 
quiet and passive spectators of the race in which the two adja- 
cent towns have been so sadly distanced. Some have spoken' 
plainly, written clearly and forcibly, and acted a noble part. 
The result of their efforts has been gradually, though surely 
manifesting itself; it is already apparent, and it must, ere 
long, be more plainly seen and more readily acknowledged 
by all. The scales have at length fallen from the eyes of many 
who were long and strangely blind to their own interest, as well 
as to that of the community at large. Renewed vigour and a 
more enterprising spirit, harmonizing somewhat with the enlight- 
ened and progressive movements of the age, are evinced ; and 
although there are some whose years and intelligence entitle 
them to respect, who still appear to be firmly fixed in their op- 
position to nearly every innovation, and who are as hard to move 
as the rocks in their deep-laid foundations amid the heavy break- 
ing surges of the sea, yet the determined and unyielding spirit 
of improvement is rapidly pervading the community. A few 
will, of course, object and grumble on to the end of life's short 
day ; but they cannot retard its progress or materially injure its 
vivifying and cheering influences. A vein of feeling upon the 
subject is gradually extending through almost every portion of 
society, and it is hoped it will swell with the life-giving principle 
of enterprise, until the pulsations shall become stronger and 
more regular than ever before, and indicate clearly a more 
healthful state of affairs ; and until the very heart of the body 
politic shall beat with emotion, and rejoice at the bright pros- 
pect of blessings and advantages which must inevitably result 
from the application of the great and never-failing remedies, 
namely : individual enterprise, combined with a sound, judi- 
cious, and liberal system of internal improvements — well-esta- 



308 HISTORICAL AND 

blislied lines of communication southward and westward, con- 
centrating at the seaport of Virginia, as at Boston, New York, 
Philadelphia, Baltimore, New Orleans, and other cities already 
named as the great commercial marts of their respective States. 

The decree has gone forth, uttered in strong and impressive 
tones, by the sovereign voice of at least a majority of the people 
in this region, that Norfolk and Portsmouth must arise and press 
more rapidly on towards the station they are destined by nature 
to occupy, with those cities of the world which have come to 
greatness only by a proper development of their resources for 
commerce. 

Water seeks its level. The course of the aerolite, or other 
descending body, is towards the centre of the earth. These and 
other established and well-known laws of nature, cannot be 
altered; they will remain, doubtless, until old Time himself 
shall be arrested in his rapid flight, and all earthly materialities 
shall be changed. But these principles arc scarcely more cer- 
tain and undeniable than the identical and self-evident proposi- 
tion, that the produce of a country will pass through the cheapest, 
nearest, and most convenient channels and outlets to the great 
commercial marts of the world ; and that trade will concentrate 
at those depots which require the least delay and expense, and 
which offer the best prices and largest profits. Then let all un- 
necessary obstructions be removed, and open the way for easy, 
free, and extensive internal communication and transportation. 
Let the T iron be laid, and the commodious cars roll on through 
those sections of country which abound with the great staple 
articles that form so large a portion of the nation's wealth ; make 
the canals almost as free as the waters of our noble rivers ; and 
then, as has been clearly demonstrated in many sections of this 
great country, with regard to other towns and cities, the long- 
expected advancement of Norfolk, and every town and village in 
its vicinity, under the approving smiles of gracious Heaven, will 
be sure and permanent ; and it will be so, notwithstanding the 
evil forebodings and melancholy predictions of the "croakers" 
to the contrary. 

But where is the city whose commerce is extensive and flou- 
rishing, only because it is open to the sea, without suitable means 



DESCllIPTIVE SKETCHES. 309 

of access for purchasers, producers, and their commodities from 
the interior? The granaries and storehouses in the rich val- 
leys of Virginia, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky,- &c., 
though less productive than they soon Avill be, are groaning with 
corn, wheat, tobacco, cotton, bacon, and other valuable produc- 
tions. The " fat cattle" that roam and graze " upon a thousand 
hills," are ready for the markets; salt in immense quantities is 
furnished at the exhaustless salines ; the mines are filled with 
coal, gypsum, copper, lead, iron, &c., all seeking vent, as it 
were, from their confinement ; and for the want of a suitable |- 
outlet in this direction, a large quantity takes a tedious, tortuous, *'^- 
and circuitous course, in opposition to the design of nature, and ' 
goes to enrich the merchants and build up the cities of other 
States, that have done well, 'tis true, to open a communication 
afibrding such means of advancement. Fortunately, however, 
ao-es of industrious and enterprising toil, will not exhaust the in- 
calculable treasures that lie dormant and undisturbed. Heavy, 
thick, and extensive forests there are to yield their supplies of 
timber, and their rich lands for cultivation ; immense fields of 
grain, and pastures with countless herds, afi"ord their annual 
abundance ; the hills, the valleys, the mountains, all invite the 
efforts of enterprise, and offer their stores of wealth. 

On taking a view of the city as it now is, it may truly be said 
— and it is exceedingly gratifying to remark — that a considerable 
improvement is presented in its appearance, and which has been 
going on rapidly during the last eight or ten years. Since the 
alteration in the title and charter, in 1845, 'the place has made 
very perceptible steps onward and upward — a creditable pro- 
gress in its career of prosperity. Many beautiful public build- 
ings, elegant family residences, large and splendid stores, well- 
paved streets, and a thriving and healthful population of about 
sixteen thousand, already suffice to render Norfolk quite a larger' 
and handsome city. With a just appreciation and judicious im- 
provement of the natural advantages and favourable position of 
the port for the most extensive mercantile operations, who can 
foretell its future greatness, as it would at no distant period be 
inscribed upon the truthful page of history ? 

The erroneous, though oft-repeated assertion, that "Norfolk 



310 HISTORICAL AND 

has no back country,"(!) should never again 'be uttered. It is 
but the feeble cry of dull despondency ; the language of the 
short-sighted, uttered in almost unpardonable ignorance, and 
which might have been applied, with about as much appropriate- 
ness, to Tyre of old, before its calamitous overthrow, or that 
might as well be used now in reference to the densely crowded 
seaport of the Empire State, the Modern Athens or the Crescent 
City, the Monumental City or the City of Brotherly Love. That 
large, quiet, and truly beautiful collection of salt water, bounding 
the city on the south, — deep, blue, and clear, from the great 
ocean just below, although it rolls along upon its ample bed, be- 
tween our city and the interior, is no obstruction to trade, not 
the least obstacle in the way of the commercial prosperity of the 
place. It is, of course, as it has been, and as it is believed it 
will, ere long, prove more plainly to be, the chief source of the 
wealth and advancement of Norfolk, as well as of the adjacent 
counties of the southeastern section of the State. 

The narrow, level slip of land on the east and southeast, assists 
greatly in supplying the markets with fruit, vegetables, mutton, 
poultry, grain, &c. ; the beautiful bays, rivers, and deep mean- 
dering streams, serving well to furnish ample quantities of the 
finest fish, wild fowl, and "fat oysters" of the largest size, and 
the dense forests abounding with oak, pine, ash, hickory, walnut, 
cedar, beech, gum, sycamore, persimmon, and other useful trees, 
which afford firewood in abundance, besides the best of timber 
for the purpose of shipbuilding, &c. 

But, as before intimated, it is to the wide domain of the 
south, southwest, west, and northwest, to the great valleys and 
plains, the mountains and "hill country" of those immense, ex- 
haustless regions, that the people, at this great natural outlet to 
the eastern world, must look for the invaluable treasures which 
a kind Providence has placed at the disposal of the busy millions 
of the interior. 

"Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Charleston, 
Savannah, Mobile, and New Orleans, have been alone looked to 
by the States in which they lie as the termini of all the works of 
improvement in which they have embarked ; while Virginia forms 
an exception to all other communities, ancient or modern, in the 



J 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 311 

struo-o-le for the empire of commerce. We have felt the central- 
izino- action of the Federal Government in favour of New York, 
and it has tended much to strip us of our foreign trade, since we 
derived no aid, but rather opposition, from our own State. The 
seaport of every Atlantic State is more rapidly improving than : ^ 
that of Virginia ; and the reason is obvious : they have commenced ■, 
their lines on the sea-coast, we, at the head of tidewater. They 
commence at one end and work through steadily to the other ; 
while we begin among the hills above the bars of our rivers, and 
stop at the mountains." 

Let the communication be opened from Norfolk westwardly ; 
tap the great internal thoroughfares, and the produce of the 
country will flow eastwardly in vast quantities, to benefit the 
merchants and tradesmen of this, as well as other sections of the 
State. Cut through the dark and thick old forest wilds, and the 
towering mountain barriers, too, if need be ; let in the bright 
light of day, bridge the rivers, unite the water-courses, spread 
out the iron track, to bind, as with a ponderous cable-chain, the 
East and the West together, and let the unwearied metallic horse 
be attached to the capacious cars, and strengthened and sustained 
by the fierce fires of the glowing furnace, throwing off upon the 
winds that lag behind him the surplus of his resistless power, let 
him speed on to and fro in his rapid course, — up from these level 
lowlands, and down again from the rich and splendid undulating 
country. Send out the conveyances to the Blue Ridge and Alle- 
ghany regions, and away down through the magnificent lands of 
West Tennessee, even to the turbid waters of the old Mississippi, 
flowing on and foaming still in unabated strength and fury. 
Send on, with the richly freighted cars, the messages from the 
seaboard, and the long whizzing trains will return to these shores 
overburdened with the rich and varied products of the vast and 
inexhaustible western and northwestern sections of our almost 
boundless expanse of territory. Here, " where we can stand at 
our doors and almost hear the voice of the eternal sea, as it 
thunders upon the beach at hand," let them be exchanged; and 
hence let them be shipped and forwarded north and east ; and by 
the contemplated Southern Steam Packet Lines from this port 



312 HISTORICAL AND 

to Liverpool, Antwerp, and other extensive marts of the old 
world, beyond the deep and troubled waters of the ocean. 
And, as a necessary consequence, capitalists will be attracted 
hither, manufactories will spring up, labour will be in demand, 
the limits of the towns will be rapidly extended, and a bright day 
of prosperity will be witnessed. The influence of Norfolk, in 
common with other cities, will then be felt and acknowledged, 
and she will act the part in the commercial, political, and literary 
world, that will reasonably be expected of the seaport city of Vir- 
ginia, and be the great central mart of the eastern coast of the 
Union. The port of Norfolk and Portsmouth will then be a great 
centre of attraction, — the converging point of trade. All South- 
eastern Virginia will feel the brightening influence, and share 
largely in the general benefits to be dispensed. An. impulse will 
be given, not only to commerce, but to the mechanic arts, and 
other attendants on a prospering community, which, in our happy 
country, especiall}^, tend to dignify society, and give importance 
to the name of a people. Then will it no longer be said, to the 
shame of the good citizens of this old commonwealth, that " Vir- 
ginia, Avith a vast domain, whose climate is the sunniest of the 
sunny ; whose valleys the richest of the rich ; whose every moun- 
tain-side embosoms a store of wealth which the wants and the 
industry of man can never exhaust ; Vvliose thousand streams 
furnish the water-power for a score of Birminghams and Lowells ; 
wdiich boasts the noblest seaport from the Passamaquoddy to the 
Rio Grande, and a roadstead that would shelter the shipping of 
the world ; that Virginia, with all these matchless advantages, — 
with the elements of commercial greatness that might make her 
the rival of New England, and old England too, has no commerce 
that can be dignified with the name, and the little she has left is 
flitting from her grasp, like the vapoury mists of the morning 
before the chasing beams of the risen sun." 

It is quite certain that an impression prevails, in some parts 
of the interior of Virginia and North Carolina, that the climate 
of Norfolk is unfavourable for the storage of tobacco, grain, &c. 
It is said that tobacco will undergo here "the sweating process," 
as is the case in New Orleans, and other low, damp situations ; 
and that it is consequently hazardous to send it, whether manu- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 313 

facturecl or in the leaf, to this place. Without a knowledge of 
the origin of so strange an impression, we sa}^, emphatically, 
that it is ivithout foundation. The statement, by whomso- 
ever made, must have been put forth either through mistake, or 
with malicious intent ; for it is well known that the climate of , 
this identical location is admirably adapted to the storage of 
this important article of commerce. The observation and expe- 
rience of years prove, most conclusively, that any assertion to 
the contrary, is absolutely fallacious. Facts, which cannot be 
set aside, and living testimony, which cannot be questioned, con- 
firm and establish the truthfulness of what we have stated. 

There are merchants, now residing in this city and elsewhere, 
who have dealt largely in tobacco here, and their testimony is 
in direct opposition to the idea that this location is not, in every 
way, suitable to its preservation in a sound and merchantable 
state. A number of satisfactory statements could be given, but 
the following will surely suffice to satisfy every unprejudiced 
mind : 

Josiah Wills, Esq., an extensive merchant, and highly-respected 
citizen of Norfolk, has a tobacco manufactory in Danville, from 
which manufactured tobacco is sent to Baltimore, Philadelphia, 
New York, &c., as well as to this city. He has, therefore, every 
facility of testing the adaptation of our climate to its storage, 
and of a comparison between this and other locations. He states 
that tobacco, either in the leaf or manufactured, is preserved in 
as sound a condition here as in any other city on the coast — 
that it remains when stored in our warehouses, especially when 
properly cured and manufactured, without sustaining the least 
injury. 

To illustrate and prove by actual facts, the entire suitableness 
of our climate to the keeping of manufactured tobacco, Mr. W. 
says further, that ^vhen a portion of large lots put up at his 
manufactory in March, has been sent in April to Norfolk, and 
several cities further north, on a careful examination, in the fall, 
of Avhat remained on hand in each place, the packages of the 
article stored in this city were found to be in a perfectly sound 
condition, and fully equal, if not superior, in colour and flavour, 



314 HISTORICAL AND 

to that sent elsewhere, at the same time, and under like circum- 
stances. 

With regard to leaf tobacco, we are authorized, by the same 
gentleman, to mention, that a hogshead of the article remained, 
through some mistake or oversight, in the Tobacco "Warehouse, 
on Town Point, for five years ; and, on being opened and exa- 
mined, the contents were found to have sustained not the least 
injury — being in a fine state of preservation. 

There are, in our city, extensive warehouses, built upon land 
far enough above the level of the waters of our deep and exten- 
sive harbour at the highest tides. The Norfolk Tobacco AYare- 
house, having been built for the purpose, is well adapted to the 
preservation of the great staple. There will be suitable and 
competent inspectors appointed ; and whenever it shall come, in 
quantities, however large, there will be found merchants here, 
able and ready to manage it to the very best advantage for the 
enterprising planters of the interior. 

This climate is also very well suited to the storage of flour, 
wheat, corn, bacon, &c. 

With regard to the means of access, it is, of course, greatly 
to the advantage of every city, that these should be convenient, 
agreeable, and cheap. All suitable efforts should be made to 
increase the number of visiters, as well as by a display of cheap 
and valuable wares, and merchandise of every description, to 
offer tempting inducements to purchasers. The northern cities 
are well aware of this, and their wise policy has long been to 
keep down the price of passage and fare, from every section of 
country likely to be tributary to the centre of attraction. Great 
are the general and special benefits of such a system ; and in 
those cases in which individual capital and enterprise cannot 
sufiice to present cheap and proper conveyances, companies and 
associations are formed, and the benefits to be derived from a 
constant ingress of strangers, of every business and from every 
direction, are secured. The cost of visiting Norfolk, from almost 
every point, is, comparatively high. There are many rich 
and populous regions of country, only a short distance from 
our city, from which our merchants receive a large portion of 
their trade — but means should be taken to increase a hundred 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 315 

fold the number of visiters. It would prove liigWy advantageous 
to all departments of business — to every interest of the city. It 
is well enough known, that almost every person who comes to 
town contributes, in some measure, to its advancement, by an 
exchange of money for its value. The hotels, the grocery stores, 
the dry-goods stores, the hardware, book, clothing, and jewelry 
stores, the fruit, confectionary, and toy stores, &c., are more or 
less patronised by strangers, who visit the place, whether on 
business or as a matter of mere pleasure or curiosity, to spend a 
few days, by way of a change, from the quiet and retirement of 
country life. 

Trade and travel must shortly tend in this direction from the 
interior of the country. " The great heart of the interior begins 
now to palpitate and perform its functions in a natural way. It 
will soon begin to throw off its produce to the great ocean of 
trade by the shortest arteries of communication." But all suit- 
able efforts should be made to attract visiters from the surround- 
ing country, by water as well as by land, and especially from 
the shores of the neighbouring rivers and bays accessible by 
steamers of light draft and light charges ; and the result would 
be pleasing and beneficial, to an extent probably not contem- 
plated even by those who favour the plan. 



CHAPTER XL. 

Lieutenant Maury— Natural Advantages of Norfolk— Back Country— Supine- 
ness of the State— The South— Trade of the Amazon Valley— Line of Steamers 
from Norfolk, &c.— Para— Clipper Ships— The Wharves of Norfolk— Advan- 
tages of the Port— Trade of the West Indies and South America— A. W. 
Thompson's Scheme — Line of Steamers from Norfolk to Antwerp, &c. — Mr. 
Thompson's Propositions — Prospective Benefits — Advantages offered by 
Belgium — Opinions respecting the enterprise — Statements of Mr. Wheeler. 

The following remarks are from a pamphlet, attributed to the 
pen of Lieutenant Maury, U. S. N., of the National Observa- 



316 HISTORICAL AND 

tory, at Washington, avIio has acquired " by his widely useful 
labours, a transatlantic fame not inferior to the enviable reputa- 
tion which he enjoj^s at home." 

" Norfolk is in a position to have commanded the business of 
the Atlantic Seaboard. It is midway the coast. It has a back 
country of great fertility and resources, and as to the approaches 
from the ocean, there is no harbour from the St. Johns to the 
Rio Grande, which has the same facility of ingress and egress, 
at all times and in all weathers. The waters flowing by it into 
the sea separate the producing from the consuming — the agricul- 
tural from the manufacturing States of the Atlantic slope ; and 
they there unite the channels that lead from the famous regions 
in the country for corn, wheat, and tobacco to the marts of com- 
merce. 

"The natural advantages of the position will be obvious to 
any one who will compare the back country of Norfolk with that 
of New York. The country drained by the Hudson is all the 
back country which naturally belongs to New York. But the 
back country of Norfolk is all that which is drained by the 
Chesapeake Bay — embraced by a line drawn along the ridge be- 
tween the Delaware and Chesapeake ; thence northwardly, in- 
cluding all of Pennsylvania that is in the valley of the Susque- 
hanna — all of Maryland this side of the mountains — the valleys 
of the Potomac, Rappahannock, Y^ork, and James Rivers — with 
the valley of the Roanoke and a great part of the State of North 
Carolina, whose only outlet to the sea is by way of Norfolk. 

" Virginia saw those advantages and slept upon them. Nature 
had placed them there, and she did not dream that man could 
take them away. But the enterprise of Nev/ Y^'ork has taken 
them away. The South now wants to regain her direct trade. 
We do not v/ish to discourage the effort, great as the odds against 
Norfolk now are, for we know that there are men in the South 
who have energy, enterprise, and capacity enough for anything 
that energy, enterprise and capacity can effect." 

After showing how the South lost the direct trade, and the 
North secured it, and the immense and boundless productions of 
the Great Amazon valley, the sugar, coffee, tobacco, rice, indigo, 
cocoa, cotton, barks, spices, gums, and sheep ; and some masterly 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 317 

remarks upon "the great king of rivers," the Gulf Stream, the , 
Gulf of Mexico, the Mississippi River, the Carribean Sea, &c. 
Lieutenant Maury thus proceeds : 

" The proposition therefore is, to establish a line of steamers 
from Norfolk, Charleston, or Savannah, to the mouth of the 
Amazon. 

" Para is the city at its mouth. It has now a population of 
15 or 20,000. There is a line of steamers already in operation 
from Rio to Para. 

" From Savannah to Para, the distance is about 2500 miles ; 
from Para, to Rio 2100. The ' Baltic,' Avould perform the 
passage from Rio to the United States, or from the United 
States to Rio, in thirteen days. The time occupied now in going 
and coming by sailing-vessels is ninety days. 

" The effect of such a communication would be to turn the 
whole current of correspondence and travel of the Atlantic Coast 
of South America, through Norfolk or the North American ter- 
minus of the line. No European nation could compete with us 
for it, for their distance from Para is doubly ours. 

" Our present commerce with Brazil and Rio de la Plata is 
more valuable than our commerce with any of the countries of 
Europe, except Britain and France. Para, at this time, affords 
foreign commerce enough to give freight to a fleet of fifty sail. 
But this is nothing to what it will do when stimulated by civili- 1 
zation, agriculture, and commerce. Of more than twice the area ' 
of the Mississippi Valley, that of the Amazon is more bountiful. 
There the labour of one day in seven, is enough to crown the 
board of the husbandman with plenty. And yet the resources 
of the vegetable, mineral, and animal kingdoms there, and of 
man and civilization, still lie almost undeveloped. Commerce, 
with the ocean for its pathway, the winds for its wings, enter- 
prise for its herald, and wealth, civilization, and Christianity for 
its attendants and followers, has not visited its shores. Were it 
but once to spread its wings over the valley of the Amazon, the 
shadow of it would be like the touch of the magician's wand ; its 
immense resources would spring into life and activity. 

" Therefore, let the South look to the South for trade and com- 



318 HISTORICAL AND 

merce ; let her foster by all means in her power liberal commer- 
cial relations with a region which has such vast possessions, such 
countless treasures, such infinite resources to make valuable its 
future commerce." 

Lieutenant M. remarks farther, in a letter on this important 
subject: 

" The clipper ships of America, as the new-modelled ships are 
called, I regard as one of the great advancements of the age. 
The impressions which they are calculated to make upon com- 
merce, and, through commerce, upon the character of the people, 
the institutions of countries, and the fortunes of nations, are not 
less than those of railways and magnetic telegraphs. They are 
second only to those made by the mariner's compass. 

" The average sailing rate of a vessel under canvass, one day 
with another, upon long voyages, has been considered at about 
one hundred miles the day. But what do we see in these ships ? 
We see them outstripping steam, averaging, for twenty-four hours 
together, upwards of eighteen miles the hour, sailing more than 
eleven hundred miles in three consecutive days, and averaging 
daily, on the voyage hence to California — a voyage through seas 
the most boisterous, through regions of the most vexatious calms, 
and a voyage the most tedious — why, we see the clipper ships 
outstripping the wind, and day after day, for ninety or one hun- 
dred days, averaging their two hundred miles. 

" The wharves of Charleston and Savannah are out of the 
reach of these ships. Those of Norfolk are not ; and the con- 
siderations growing out of this circumstance are sufficient to turn 
the scale in favour of Norfolk. 

" Measuring the distance by the only true standard time, and 
taking the mean of the average time under steam, and the mean 
of the average time under canvass, for the commercial distance 
to the Amazon, Norfolk, in consequence of her fine harbour and 
her ability to trade in clipper ships, will be found practically to 
be the nearest port in the United States to the mouth of the 
Amazon. By steam, Charleston has the advantage over Norfolk 
of about ninety miles only ; and for the fetching and carrying 
of that commerce to which this steam enterprise is to give rise, 
the first rate clipper ships which Norfolk can send out, and which 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 319 

Charleston and Savannah cannot, will greatly surpass and far J 
outstrip the second and third rate class of ships to which the 
bars have doomed our more southern cities. 

" Therefore, in my judgment, Norfolk is the place. A con- 
tract for carrying the Brazilian and South American mails would 
also assist to build up and sustain this line." 

"At the present moment," says another writer, "when steam 
is revolutionizing the world, — when our own State has at length 
been aAvakened from her lethargy, and is entering upon a system 
of internal improvements with a spirit and energy which will com- 
mand success and develope her inexhaustible sources of mineral 
and agricultural wealth, — Ave beg to call the attention of the 
citizens of Norfolk, and of all Virginia, to a branch of commerce 
which is peculiarly our own, and in which we may, with all con- 
fidence, defy competition. We allude to the West India and 
South American trade and mail routes, in which we would have " 
no competition with previously-established lines ; or, if they even 
did exist, we will clearly demonstrate how easily we could super- 
sede them by our peculiar local advantages." 

Much has been said and written about the scheme of Ambrose 
W. Thompson, Esq., an enterprising merchant of Philadelphia, to 
establish a line of steamers between Norfolk, Antwerp, &c., and 
of his able memorial to the General Assembly of Virginia. He 
proposes " to establish a line of first-class steamships, of not less 
than two thousand tons register each, between the ports of Nor- 
folk, Virginia, and Antwerp, in Europe, touching, in going or 
returning, at such other ports in England and France as may be 
desirable ; — the said ships to possess great speed and sea quali- 
ties, and to be built in such manner as to fit them for any marine 
or naval purpose. 

" He will contribute two-fifths of the cost of construction and 
equipment of said steamers, and begin their construction imme- 
diately, so as to establish the said line at the earliest possible 
period, provided the State of Virginia shall advance its six per 
cent, bonds with coupons, having ten years to run, for the re- 
maining three-fifths ; the bonds thus advanced to be secured to 
the State by mortgage on the said ships, accompanied by the 
policies of insurance, and a contract that the said steamers shall 



320 HISTORICAL AND 

always run from the waters of Virginia. The interest on the 
said bonds to be paid semi-annually into the Treasury of Vir- 
ginia and the whole amount of bonds thus advanced to be paid 
by him at their maturity ; but he is to have the privilege of pay- 
ing them oft' at any time previous to maturity. 

" The State of Virginia, through its Board of Improvement, 
to have the right at all timss to examine into the accounts of 
disbursements made for the cost of said steamers, and to have 
the continued right of inspecting them during the term of the 
State's bonds, and requiring such repairs and improvements 
made in them as will fully secure the efficiency and value of 
said steamships." 

The Richmond Republican says : " The memorial presents 
clearly and concisely one of the safest and most thoroughly prac- 
tical modes of carrying out a great enterprise that we have yet 
seen ; and we trust that no son of the Old Dominion will fail to 
sustain heartily this eff"ort to give to us a neiv dominion upon the 
ocean. Let this line but go into early operation, and we shall 
see all the tributary waters of the Chesapeake covered with active 
steamboats, developing our internal resources and sustaining the 
Ocean line. Our main stems of railroads will be extended to the 
waters of the Mississippi, and through Virginia will pour the com- 
merce of that great valley of the nation." 

" The government of Belgium has given assurance that it will 
co-operate with Virginia, and lend every aid in its power towards 
the early establishment and permanent support of the line. 

" The people of Belgium respond in an equally prompt and 
promising manner. 

" The manufacturers and merchants are desirous to secure a 
direct import into their country of cotton, tobacco, and other 
southern produce, that they miy in return find markets for the 
products of their industry and mechanical skill." 

This subject is now — January, 1853 — pending in the Legisla- 
ture, having been already favourably considered by the Senate, 
which passed a bill in accordance with the propositions of Mr. 
Thompson. In view of the apparent probability that the enter- 
prise would prove successful, we are inclined to express the hope 
that it may be tried ; although it is the opinion of gentlemen of 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 321 

much intelligence and experience, that ten or fifteen years hence 
would be a more suitable period for the State to advance the sum 
required by the projector ; and that, if undertaken now, the 
whole scheme, fair as it looks on paper, will result in a splendid 
failure. 

The following are some of the reasons adduced in favour of the 
scheme, by Mr. Wheeler, of Portsmouth, in an able speech on this ' 
subject, delivered in the House of Delegates, in December, 1852 : 

"We could get the trade, not of Belgium alone, but that of 
one hundred and three millions of people also, with which Ant- 
werp has immediate communication by railroad, &c. 

"In 1838, the United States, Avith Belgium, had a trade 
amounting to eight millions of dollars. Supposing that it is suc- 
cessful, and that it will sustain itself, as no doubt it will, what 
would be the specific advantages ? I think eight millions of dol- 
lars would be something. This we can monopolize, and Virginia, 
with all her towns and cities, will rejoice in their prosperity. 
Besides the advantage of a better market for our tobacco, flour, 
corn, and wool — of which Belgium consumes so much — we could 
have in return their manufactures, which are the best in Europe. 

" All the cotton trade is at present indirectly freighted from 
New York to Liverpool ; but by a direct commercial line of in- 
tercourse, Virginia would realize all the benefits of this, and 
monopolize the cotton trade ; and Norfolk would be the shipping 
port for all the cotton trade of the United States. 

" When the proposed line is established, it will turn the tide 
of trade from New York to Norfolk ; and thence to Richmond, 
Petersburg, and the different towns and cities of this common- 
wealth. 

" One of the first effects, and an important one too, which this 
line would produce, would be the lucrative benefits arising from 
consignment, by which numbers are making fortunes in New 
York, and these advantages could be had by the people of the 
cities and towns of Virginia." 



21 



322 HISTORICAL AND 



CHAPTER XLL 

Gencrcal Appearance of the City — Buildings — Streets, Gardens, Flowers, &c. — 
New Baptist Church — Pleasing View — Public Buildings, &c. — Relative Po- 
sition — Academy — Christ Church — St. Paul's — Eastern Branch — Herberts- 
■ville — St. Patrick's Church — Presbyterian Church — Baptist Church — Me- 
thodist Episcopal Church — Marine Hospital — Mechanics' Hall — Southern 
Branch — Navy Yard — City Hall — Portsmouth — Naval Hospital — New Metho- 
dist Episcopal Church — Elizabeth River — AVar Steamers — Craney Island — 
African Churches — Almshouse — Cemeteries — Cotton Factory — Background 
— Wooded Lands— Norfolk in 1852 — The Situation — Climate — Atmosphere — 
Norfolk Sunsets — Descriptions — Sunset Scene, by Charles H. Beale, Esq. 
— Appearance of the City and River from the Outer Harbour — Beautiful 
Scenery — Location — Productions of the Water, Forests, Fields, and Gardens 
— The Soil and its Capacity — Grain, Vegetables, Fruit, &c. — Grapes — Land 
— Sites for Farms. 

The City of Norfolk, viewed from some central eminence, 
presents to the eye of the beholder a picture, which, though 
not as exciting as that of some of her sister cities, is one of 
considerable interest and beauty ; producing in the mind very 
pleasurable emotions. An appearance of neatness, cleanliness, 
and thriftiness is very perceptible. The streets are, many of 
them, straight, well paved, nearly level, of convenient width, 
and in good order. When spring has thrown her verdant mantle 
over the earth, the view is delightfully varied by blooming and 
flourishing shade and fruit trees. Flowers of every hue " lift 
up their delicate hands, and expand their sweet corollas," to de- 
light the eye and throw off their fragrance upon the air. 

"There is companionship 
In summer flowers ; they whisper to our 
Hearts sweet lessons of their mission here — 
Of love, and gentleness, and every softer grace. 
And some, like friends well tried, have followed 
Us through every path of life, in this dark 
World of sin and grief, to cheer us with an 
Old familiar look, or thought, when we were 
Strangers in a strange land, or sad in 
Some changed house." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 323 

The yello^y jessamine, the crimson woodbine, the sweet-scented 
honeysuckle, and other vines of luxuriant growth, entwine the 
arbourSj, " mingle their long tendrils, and cling to the white walls 
of the houses, peeping into the windows and even under the 
edges of the doorways, as if they love the faces of those who 
dwell therein," while hundreds of carefully cultivated vegetable 
gardens contribute to the varied and enlivening scene ; and a 
large number of tasteful and lofty family residences, neatly 
painted, airy, and commodious, are to be seen in every direc- 
tion. Many public buildings, too, some of them of great archi- 
tectural beauty, stand out to view, and lend much to the dignity 
and beauty of the scene. 

We are standing at the base of the principal turret of the 
steeple of that splendid new temple of worship, the Freemason 
Street Baptist Church — 

" How reverend is the face of this tall pile ! 

* * ^:- * * 

It strikes aa awe 
And terror on my aching sight." 

But we look out with delight upon the scene above, beneath, 
around. We are gently fanned by the breeze that comes slowly 
in from over the briny waves of the deep blue sea. It is a 
bright morning in June; the "glorious King of Day" has not 
yet reached his meridian height, and his rays are not oppres- 
sive. The streets, lanes, houses, squares, gardens, trees, flowers, 
all are before us in pleasing variety. The thick, green foliage 
rustles to the passing zephyr ; the loud, unrestrained voice of 
the light-hearted school-boy, and the lively, transporting laugh 
from that group of happy girls, rise above the hum of the passing 
crowd, and are heard distinctly by the listening ear — 

" How gay in youth the flattering future seems !" 

Lightly and cheerily they pass on, full of hope and promise ; — 
may their brightest anticipations be realized ! But old Time 
will travel on, with steady and unfaltering tread ; and, ere long, 
some of the gay and joyful here will say of the hope that now 
swells the heart with the gilded visions of the future : 



324 HISTORICAL AND 

'« 'Twas lovely as the splendid bow 
That spans the vault of heaven ! 
'Twas idle as the pageant show 
For infant pastime given. 

•' 'Twas like the moon's ray on the stream, 
Reflected bright and clear ! 
The infant's hand would grasp the beam, 
But there is nothing there !" 

Who can paint the shade and sunshine, or foresee the joy and 
sorrow, that they must experience, on their journey through this 
world of change and disappointment ? 

With compass in hand,* we now turn the eye from this central 
position, and look northeast by east, in which direction we have 
a fine view of the Academy building, and its proportionate 
dimensions, standing in the centre of its handsome square. East 
by south, and only a few rods distant, Christ Church shoots up 
its spire towards the sky. Southeast by east, stands old St. 
Paul's, amid the slumbering dead. In this direction is seen, too, 
the Eastern Branch of the Elizabeth, as it glides under the 
Draw-bridge, and winds along its devious course, greeting Her- 
bertsvillef on the south bank, and passing, on either hand beyond, 
a number of beautiful farms, with their neat farm-houses and 
cottages half concealed among the trees. In this direction, also, 
stands St. Patrick's Church, with its chaste front and significant 

* See Norfolk Directory for relative position of public buildings, &c. 

f Should a free bridge be allowed across the Eastern Branch, and especially 
if the Norfolk and Petersburg Road be built, the value of property at Herberts- 
ville will be greatly enhanced. Its close proximity to the business part of the 
city, may induce persons, at no distant day, to establish manufactories, erect 
buildings, and reside on that side of the river. And as it is a beautiful and 
pleasant location, from which there is a fine view of Norfolk Bay, or the inner 
harbour, and of the Southern Branch of the Elizabeth, as well as of the city, 
it might be a good movement for the proprietors of the property, on this point 
of land, to lay it ofif in streets, squares, &c., for a town. 

It must be admitted, however, that there is room enough yet, within the 
limits of the city, for works of enterprise ; and unless we soon have more pro- 
gressive men, a long time it will certainly be before the population of Norfolk 
will boil over, or '< swarm out," like that of some other prosperous places in 
the world. At the present day, however, much is accomplished in a short 
time ; and a very diflerent state of affairs may be witnessed here, ere many of 
the present generation shall be resting beneath the green sod. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 325 

emblems ; and here, too, are presented the towering cupola of 
the Presbyterian Church, and the neat front of the Cumberland 
Street Baptist Church. Southeast by south, the Cumberland 
Street Methodist Church presents its bold and massive propor- 
tions. Due south, and over the water, at Washington Point, 
stands the Marine Hospital,* a tidy and airy structure, half hid 
amid trees, and surrounded by evergreens and shrubbery. In 
this direction, we see, also, the Mechanics' Hall, with its showy 
front and architectural peculiarities, and other handsome build- 
ings. South by west, the Southern Branch, with Portsmouth, 
Gosport, and the great naval establishment, on its Avest bank, 
winds its serpentine way amongst the dense green foliage, to 
mingle with the juniper-coloured waters of the Dismal Swamp 
Canal. This is also the direction of the City Hall, which the 
beholder sees with admiration, — its massive columns, lofty dome, 
solid walls, and fine proportions, — and awards the meed of praise 
to the " city fathers." On the southwest, we may look upon the 
"sister town," exhibiting no mean display of beautiful public 
buildings and private dwellings. West by south, across the 
water, and fronting Norfolk, we find that splendid national es- 
tablishment, the Naval Hopital, an elegantly constructed pile of 
masonry, — a grand ornament to the harbour, worthy of the noble 
object for which it is intended, and is so well suited. f West- 
northwest, stands the Granby Street Methodist Church, its taste- 
ful columns and towering dome overlooking two of the most 
beautiful streets in the city. Farther on, and in the same direc- 
tion, Elizabeth River spreads out its deep, broad bosom, floating, 
in their majesty and pride, some of the most formidable war- 
steamers, many smaller vessels, and numbers of boats, with their 

* The grounds connected with this establishment, and the principal building 
itself, were gi-eatly improved and beautified by the direction, and under the 
supervision of Dr. E. 0. Balfour, the attendant physician for ten or twelve 
years, prior to 1849. He merited and received the highest commendation for 
his kind and skilful attentions to the sick, the excellent order in which the 
establishment was kept, and the various improvements introduced. His poli- 
tical principles caused his removal, which recently took place, in favour of Dr. 
Schoolfield, of Portsmouth. 

f This is also the direction of the Custom House, and Post Office building 
soon to be erected, and described on another page. 



320 HISTORICAL AND 

white sails inviting the breezes ; and then on, five miles in the 
distance, lies Craney Island, the scene of a memorable victory 
in the last war with England. 

In a northerly and noi'theasterly direction are a number of 
neat buildings, several African churches. Plume and Company's 
Rope and Oakum AYorks, the Gas Works, Cotton Factory, the 
Almshouse, Cedar Grove and Elmwood Cemeteries, steam saw- 
mill, farm-houses, cottages and lawns, with a thick growth of 
pine, oak, and maple in the background, all combining to in- 
crease the gratifying emotions, caused by a look at Norfolk as it 
is in 1852. And it will doubtless be readily admitted, that 
although the city is situated in a low, level tract of country, 
where there are no towering mountains to be seen in the distance, 
nor gently undulating lands and green hills, among which dance 
along upon the pebbly floor the crystal streams, sparkling in the 
sunbeams amid fragrant flowers that stoop to embrace the ripples 
or throw off* their soft petals of every hue upon the glassy sur- 
face, redolent with the perfume prepared by Nature's own right 
hand — no startling exhibitions of nature in her wild state — no 
frowning precipices — no roaring torrents, monotonous murmur- 
ing waterfalls nor spangling fountains ; yet the situation is plea- 
sant and agreeable, and the inhabitants are certainly in the 
enjoyment of many blessings, including a delightful, invigorating, 
and healthful climate. 

This location is seldom visited by violent storms of wind, rain, 
snow, or thunder ; and yet it is almost open to the boundless 
ocean, to which our bold estuary conveys vessels of the largest 
class in two or three hours. 

Perhaps it will not be judged unworthy of remark that the 
atmosphere of this region is generally very clear and transpa- 
rent. The disagreeable semi-transparency of the air, often 
noticeable in some locations, is seldom observable here. We 
have only a fair share of cloudy and foggy weather. The hea- 
venly bodies generally appear Avith a peculiarly brilliant and 
unobstructed lustre, and often give an attractive charm to the 
dawning or declining day. Sunrise, sunset, and even the solemn 
midnight hour, frequently present a cheering and delightful sight. 
Norfolk sunsets have indeed become celebrated, and travellers 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 327 

have left on record some glowing descriptions of their beauty. 
Said one (after having watched " the unwearied sun" at the 
closing moments of the departing day, and in concluding a graphic 
description thereof), " A more gorgeous scene could not be pre- 
sented to a painter's mind." 

The author of these sketches has witnessed many such scenes 
here, and will record one which was exceedingly striking and 
beautiful. The disappearance of the great central orb of our 
system was attended, on that occasion, with a view well calculated 
to awaken the happiest emotions in the minds of those who wit- 
nessed it, and who know how to appreciate the varied attractions 
of nature. Such a scene is thus fitly described by one of the 
poets. 

" It is a beauteous evening, calm and free. 
* * * -x- 

The broad sun 
Is sinking down in its tranquillity ; 
The gentleness of heaven broods o'er the sea." 

The "expansive forehead" of the great source of light and 
heat, sank quietly down behind the verdure of the western hills ; 
and then a fleecy cloud that hung in its beauty a few deo-rees 
above the horizon, reflected the rays of the departing " King of 
Day," presenting to the eye of the beholder, the appearance of 
the brightest and most exquisitely polished gold, changing gra- 
dually as they " melted over the verge of the cloud," to a deeper, 
though less brilliant hue. There was a peculiar transparency in 
the colour of the adjacent clouds, pictured out upon the broad 
canvass and by the magic pencil of Nature, which no painter 
could attempt to imitate with any hope of success. The broad 
surface of our beautiful river " quivering under the pinions of 
the evening breeze," scarcely suflicient to waft the lightest bark 
over its clear waters, reflected, like a great mirror, the hues of 
the gilded vault above. That beautiful and massive structure, 
the Naval Hospital, standing in its pride on the opposite shore, 
gave increasing interest to the view ; while that great leviathian 
of the waters, the Pennsylvania, and other United States vessels 
on the station, formed a deeply interesting feature in the splendid 
picture. And now. 



328 HISTORICAL AND 

"The sun has sunk into his western couch, 
And all the rosy spirits of the eve 
Are gathered round in bright companionship. 
There is a speaking stillness in the calm, 
That breathes of holy purity and peace. 
Above, the clouds, all silent and serene, 
Rest on the waveless azure of the sky 
Like spirit isles of beauty, while the moon, 
Full-orbed and smiling in her gentle light. 
And all the thousand gems whose peaceful sheen 
Spreads through infinitude a silvery ray. 
Speak noiseless quietude. The bay, at rest. 
Mirrors the freighted treasures which it bears ; 
While deeply pictured in the nether vault 
The heavenly one appears. 

-;;- * -K- * 

On the earth. 
All things seem full of breathing Paradise ; 
Hope spreads her radiant pinions on the air. 
Which floats around the realms of joyousness. 
Thought wanders amid flowers of every hue. 
Whose breath is full of fragrance. Beauty seems 
To have arrayed herself in all her smiles, 
To grace the glories of the gladdened eve ; 
And happiness invites the sons of toil 
To share the treasures of her boundless feast." 

We have had the good fortune to witness from the same posi- 
tion, still more striking and beautiful scenery attending the 
closing day, than even that which we have sketched — have 
"watched the clouds in the western sky, as they formed them- 
selves into festoons of gorgeous drapery;" but this, attended as 
it was, by the quiet and stillness of the Sabbath eve, was suffi- 
cient to calm the troubled emotions in man's breast, and direct 
the mind in adoration to Nature's great Author. 

Charles H. Beale, Esq., one of the editors of the "Norfolk 
Daily News," is decidedly good at description; and we present 
the reader with a sketch from his pen of another of our Sabbath 
sunsets : 

" The heavens at sunset, presented one of the most beautiful 
and brilliant spectacles of sky-scenery that we have ever wit- 
nessed. It seemed as if Dan Phoebus had determined to give 
a parting display of his glories, despite the envious clouds that 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 329 

had veiled his brightness during the day, and to sink in triumph, 
though suppressed for a time in gloom. 

" It ^vas not one of those gorgeous sunsets that we so often see, 
when the sky is clear, and the whole expanse lighted up with 
deep and glowing colours of crimson, orange, and gold ; but it 
was more subdued, yet, at the same time, varied, fantastical, pic- 
turesque. During the short space of fifteen minutes, the whole 
aspect of the heavens underwent four changes, all different, but 
equally lovely. The clouds, which had been dark and charged 
with rain during the day, towards night melted away into thin 
vapour-banks, and from the edge of the western horizon to the 
zenith, alternated with glimpses of the deep blue of the firmament 
beyond. As the sun slowly sank in the west, a deep carmine 
suffused the lower space around him, tinging with roseate hues 
the edges of the clouds which were arranged, row by row, far 
above ; a few minutes more, and they assumed the appearance of 
drifting snow-wreaths ; then a flood of golden light was poured 
over the whole heavens, which gradually changed to cream- 
colour, with large spots here and there, like cloud-islands, of 
deep lake, purple, and maroon. The clouds, too, as they slowly 
drifted along before the evening breeze, broke into the most fan- 
tastic forms, and assumed shapes which the delighted eye could 
imagine to be veritable air-castles, built, from base to pinnacle, 
of the most gorgeous but fleeting material. 

" But ' all that's bright must fade.' The sun at length retired 
to greet other lands with his welcome beams, stars peeped out 
from between the misty veils which sought to hide their modest 
glances, and, in a few moments, sober, pensive twilight had given 
place to the dusky mantle of solemn Night, which enveloped 
things terrestrial in its sombre folds." 

We are indebted to the same source for the following correct 
sketch of the appearance of our city and river from the " outer 
harbour :" 

" We hastened to the upper deck, and, taking a seat on the 
leeward side of the boat, feasted our eyes on the beautiful pano- 
rama spread before them. And, indeed, the scene that presents 
itself at the entrance of our harbour is a beautiful one ; and it is 



330 HISTORICAL AND 

only because we are used to its beauty, that it is not so biglily 
appreciated as it deserves. We had just passed old Fort Nor- 
folk when we gained our post of observation, and, looking behind 
us, took in at a glance the whole scene. On the left was the 
city, Avith its successive rows of warehouses and wharves, the new 
City Hall just in front, one corner of it hidden by the new depot 
for naval stores erected by J. Gordon, Esq. ; the spires of the 
Episcopal and Baptist churches, pointing heavenward, with the 
cupolas and turrets of others distinguishable among the confused 
mass of buildings, which, in the distance, seemed to be heaped 
together without order or arrangement ; the town of Portsmouth, 
occupying the other side, with the Navy Yard beyond, while 
Washington Point appeared to block up farther ingress, gave 
to the river the appearance of a small lake surrounded by a city 
and its suburbs." 

The location of Norfolk is also such as to place in reach of 
almost all the citizens nearly every delicacy in the way of fish, 
flesh, or fowl, vegetables, fruit, or grain. The land in the vici- 
nity is capable of producing from fifty to one hundred and fifty 
bushels to the acre, and varies considerably in colour. There 
are black, gray, chocolate, &c., the greater part of which is easy 
to drain and cultivate, being well adapted to the culture of corn, 
peas, oats, clover, potatoes, cabbages, tomatoes, melons, &c. Its 
adaptation to the growth of apples, pears, peaches, cherries, 
plums, and other fruits, has also been fairly and favourably 
tested. Grapes of the finest kinds are also produced, the clus- 
ters weighing from sixteen to twenty-four ounces, and measuring 
ten to twelve inches in length and twelve to sixteen inches in 
circumference. 

There is much uncultivated and unimproved land, which may 
be had at from ten to twenty dollars per acre ; and there are 
many picturesque and handsome sites for farms within a few 
miles from the city, both with and without a water front, on the 
river or one of its several beautiful branches. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 



CHAPTER XLIL 

Healthfulness of Norfolk — The Climate — Erroneous Impressions — Sickness 
during the War — Malignant Fevers — The Army here in 1813 — Causes of 
Sickness and Mortality — Exposure, change of Diet, Climate, &c. — Intempe- 
rance — The Cold Plague — Measles — Dysentery^Bilious — Inexperienced Phy- 
sicians — Venesection — Injudicious and Fatal Treatment — Calomel — Opium — 
Water — Clothing — Attendance — Inexperienced Officers — The Citizens — En- 
dearments of Home — Fever in 1821 and '20 — "British Spy" — Erroneous 
Statements — BufFon's Strange Theory — Norfolk on a high IMountain — Sick- 
ness in 1852 — Injurious Reports — Comparative Statements — Charleston — 
Average Mortality — Healthful Effects of the Climate — Comparative Table — 
Coloured Population — Statement of Diseases and Deaths— The Cholera — 
Longevity — Conclusive Proof. 

With regard to the he alt It fulness of this location, it is a well- 
established fact, that Norfolk will compare very favourably, with 
other cities. The climate, though changeable, is pleasant and 
salubrious. 

The spring and fall seasons are delightfully pleasant, the 
summers not often uncomfortably warm, and the winters, though 
formerly quite severe, have, for many years, been comparatively 
mild and pleasant, if we except that of 1851-2. 

The writer is aware, that for a number of years an opinion has 
prevailed in some sections, that Norfolk is very unhealthy — an 
opinion Avell calculated to affect unfavourably the interests of the 
place. This erroneous impression was caused by the sickness 
and mortality among the troops at this place during the last war 
with England, and some cases of malignant fever in the sum- 
mers of 1821 and '26. Let it be borne in mind that the un- 
healthfulness among the soldiers was caused by circumstances 
which would have had a similar effect in other healthful locations. 
There was quite a large army here, and it was reasonable to ex- 
pect that among so considerable a number there would be many 
sick, and that some would die. This would have been the case 
had they all remained at home. But they were exposed, in sum- 
mer and fall, to the dews and damp air at night, and to the heat of 
the sun during the day ; and in Avinter, to the rains, snows, and 



332 HISTORICAL AND 

frosts. Many of them were from the mountainous regions of the 
State. These were peculiarly subject to the effects of a transition 
to a clamper and heavier atmosphere, at a location only a few 
feet above the level of the sea. The change in diet and water 
was also very detrimental to health ; while there were thousands 
whose general mode of life had been such as to render the novel 
regulations of the camp, particularly injurious and destructive to 
the constitution. Let it be remembered, also, that quantities of 
intoxicating liquors, of bad quality, were used, which tended to 
injure and debilitate the physical system, and to prepare it, ac- 
cording to the opinion of eminent physicians, for the fatal attacks 
of disease. There was much dissipation among the soldiers. 

It is also a well-remembered fact, that the disease which caused 
the greatest mortality among the troops here, was not at all pe- 
culiar to this location. It was the cold plague, an epidemic which 
commenced its ravages at the Canadas, and spread thence, as far 
south as Georgia. Its symptoms and effects were very similar 
to those of an epidemic which prevailed to an alarming extent in 
Northampton County, Va., in 1845, of which three hundred white 
persons alone, died in a short space of time. This singular and 
dreadful distemper attacked the throat and lungs ; more frequently 
the latter. It was not understood by the physicians, and hun- 
dreds of the soldiers were soon prostrated by its violence, who, 
after a few days of suffering, were generally relieved by death. 
The measles and dysentery, which often attack soldiers in camp, 
also broke out among them ; and there were cases of bilious fever 
too, resulting from the distressing exposure of the troops en- 
camped in the suburbs. It is also a lamentable fact, that the 
treatment of the sick by the inexperienced young physicians who 
accompanied the troops hither, was, in a great number of cases, 
most injudicious, unreasonable, and unsuccessful ; and we may add, 
exceedingly destructive to life. The favourite remedy with those 
young surgeons or medical gentlemen, those novices in the heal- 
ing art, was venesection, for almost all diseases ; and a sad time it 
was, indeed, for the suffering soldier, when the doctor approached 
with his lancet — not to his bedside, for beds numbers of them had 
not. The custom was to bleed often, and bleed copiously. Besides, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCUES. 333 

although the hapless patients were required to swallow large and 
frequent doses of calomel, opium, &c., Avhile, 

" The summer evening's balmy air, 
Felt hotter than they well could bear ; 
And tearless was the fiery eye, 
And the hot throat was parched so dry. 
That every drop they dared to sip. 
Seemed lost before it passed the lip," 

they were nevertheless allowed, according to the cruel custom of 
that period, but a scanty supply of the cooling beverage of 
nature. Even water, which the sinking system so much required 
to restore its functions, was denied them ! 

Many unfortunate and distressing circumstances combined 
to ruin the health, undermine the constitution, and destroy the 
lives of the troops that were stationed here. The clothing of 
many of them was utterly unsuited to the climate. Their food 
was mostly coarse and common ; when sick, they were poorly 
attended, and instead of being carefully nursed, were, in many 
cases, sadly neglected. There were no suitable and properly- 
furnished hospitals, where the invalids could receive such treat- 
ment as was necessary to the restoration of health. 

These unfortunate circumstances, so unfavourable to the health 
of the militia-men especially, could not easily be prevented. 
There were large numbers here ; the officers were inexperienced ; 
many of the citizens had left the town, and those that remained 
were unprepared and unable to afford assistance, except to a 
limited extent. Those who could render aid and comfort, offered 
it freely ; they threw open their houses, and did what they could 
to help the sick. But there were numbers who could receive no 
such assistance from the private residents. Added to all this, 
they were far away from the endearing associations of home, 
and deprived of the peculiarly tender care, watchfulness, and 
sympathies, to be received there only. To some of these causes, 
and perhaps, in many cases, to all of them combined, the illness 
and fatality were justly attributable on the occasion alluded to. 

With regard to the cases of malignant fever, which occurred 
in 1821 and '26, it is a well-known fact, that they were confined, 



334 HISTORICAL AND 

almost exclusively, to a small portion of the town, whicli has 
since been greatly improved. Indeed, it was the opinion of able 
physicians, that the disease did not originate here. 

It seems that the remarks of the accomplished author of " The 
Letters of the British Spy," about the " annual visits of the 
yellow fever" to Norfolk, how appropriate soever his observations 
may have been on some other subjects, were erroneous and un- 
just ; and more especially since they appeared in the fifth edition 
of the work, which was published in 1813, "with the last correc- 
tions of the author." The last " visit of the yellow fever," as an 
epidemic, to Norfolk, in the eighteenth century, was in '95 ; and 
the first in the nineteenth was in '21 ; so thinks one of the oldc . 
and most eminent physicians of this city. The remarks of the 
author of the " Spy," on this subject, contain about as much 
truth, though not as much poetry perhaps, as Buffon's strar^ ; 
theory, of which he speaks in the same connexion, including the 
recession of the waters from Hampton Beads and the Chesa- 
peake ; their beds becoming fertile valleys ; and the conversion 
of the "sickly site of Norfolk" "into a high and salubrious 
mountain!" The able Avriter alluded to, may not have intended 
thus to inflict an undeserved injury upon Norfolk, the most im- 
portant and flourishing commercial town in his State, at the 
period at which he wrote ; but his book was extensively circu- 
lated, and extensively read ; it outlived its distinguished author 
— it still exists — is still read and admired, while he lies quietly 
in the stillness of the grave ; and its influence upon the minds of 
its readers, and thus indirectly upon the welfare of our town, 
may have been, and still may be, deleterious to no inconsider- 
able degree. 

Several fatal cases of sickness, resembling yellow fever, occurred 
in the fall of 1852. The summer had been exceedingly wet — 
more rain fell here in July and August, as before mentioned, 
than had fallen for the two whole years preceding. Conside- 
rable sickness was therefore expected in this section. Neverthe- 
less, with the few exceptions named, the general health of the 
city was nearly as good as usual. But the cases of fever in the 
lower part of the town, which assumed a malignant character, 
were attributable to the arrival of vessels from infected ports. 
Cases of the same kind, and owing to the same cause, have 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 335 

occurred in Philadelphia, Boston, and other cities farther north. 
The quarantine laws will probably be enforced hereafter. Some 
of our physicians, if not all, advise this course. It was not 
ascertained, in regard to the cases here at this period, that there 
was any existing local cause. There were about fifteen deaths 
during the months of September and October, said to have been 
caused by the disease called yellow fever. Surely no person 
with common sense, can say that this was any other than very 
small comparative mortality, in a population of about sixteen 
thousand ; and yet, false, silly, and most injurious statements 
were made relative to the e astence of sickness here. It was 
aost industriously spread abroad, that the yellow fever was 
"raging in Norfolk." " It is dangerous to go there," said the 
reporters, " for the inhabitants are dying oft" like sheep with the 
.j.t!" or words to that effect. Meanwhile the cheerful counte- 
nances, the ruddy cheeks, and healthy active forms, and bright 
eyes of the thousands of citizens that thronged the streets, gave 
pleasing evidence of the general healthiness of the place, and 
that the business of the doctors had not increased to the alarming 
extent represented. Let us pursue this subject a little further. 
The writer has been informed, by a medical gentleman, who had 
the opportunity of making a correct calculation, that there were 
about a dozen deaths. From another reliable source, we learn 
that there Avere seven fatal cases in September and eight in 
October. The disease first made its appearance in a family 
living in the vicinity of a wharf, on Town Point, at which there 
was a vessel from a port where the disease existed ; and the 
greater portion of the cases occurred in the same part of the 
town, or its vicinity, while those who were attacked elsewhere, 
had been in what was called the "infected district." Now, in 
this portion of the city there was no sunken lot, no bog, no filthy 
dock, nor decayed vegetable matter, calculated to engender 
disease. Whatever may have been its condition twenty-five or 
thirty years ago, Town Point is now (1853), for the most part 
paved, built up, and kept cleanly, and free from odious exhala- 
tions or malaria ; while as much cannot be said of other portions 
of the city, which were entirely free from the presence of the 
disease. Thus it appears, that if the quarantine laws had been 
enforced in the fall of 1852, we should, in all probability, have 



336 HISTORICAL AND 

heard nothing of another "visit" of the yellow fever, which, 
while we are compelled to admit its existence, spread so slowly, 
and to so limited an extent, that Ave may safely say, the climate 
of Norfolk is utterly unsuited to the dissemination of the disease. 
But compare the mortality in this city with that in Charleston, 
at the same period, where nearly fifty died weekly. We men- 
tion this fact with sincere regret, and entertaining the hope that 
the proverbially beautiful and hospitable seaport city of the 
noble State of South Carolina, may never again be visited with 
the fatal disease to which we have alluded. Although the popu- 
lation of that city, is perhaps, three times as great as that of 
our city, still, the comparison is evidently a favourable one, so 
far as our climate is concerned. Norfolk never was as sickly as 
it has been represented to be ; but whatever causes may have 
tended to induce the idea of its great insalubrity, in former days, 
it is well known and acknowledged, that for more than a quarter 
of a century past, the official statements of the average mortality 
here, confirm the truth of our remarks, with regard to its health- 
someness, beyond all successful contradiction. The inhabitants, 
generally, and more especially, those who take exercise in the 
open air, look well, and enjoy good health ; and a change of 
residence from other places to Norfolk, is well known to have 
resulted, in many instances, in improved health. Old constitu- 
tional diseases and chronic afflictions have frequently disappeared 
after a short residence here. Indeed, the salubrity of the dis- 
trict, for miles around, is said to have greatly improved within 
the lapse of twenty years. 

In regard to the health of the city, a few other facts will now 
be presented bearing upon the subject. Let them speak for 
themselves ; and even the prejudiced, if any there are, must 
admit the truth of the position taken. The following table, 
showing the average annual mortality, is derived from authentic 
sources : 

PER CENT. 

Norfolk, If 

Philadelphia, 2J 

New York, 2| 

Baltimore, 2J 

Boston, 2J 

New Haven, 2J 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 



337 



Here is, certainly, a favourable comparison, and an enviable 
evidence of the healthiness of the place. Our bills of mortality 
also compare favourably with those of the cities of Europe, as 
well as of our own country ; which fact, when it is recollected 
that we have a large coloured population, must be a satisfactory 
proof, not only of the excellent health of the place, but also of 
the good condition of that portion of the inhabitants. 

The number of deaths in Norfolk, from June 1, 1849, to June 
1, 1850, was 364: 



Males, 


. 


174 


Whites 


, 


. m . 


186 


Females, 


• * 


190 
364 


Coloured, 


• • • 


178 
364 


Deaths 


in June, 






85 






" July, 










79 






" August, 










45 






" September, 








31 






" October, 










16 






" November 
" December 


5 
> 








11 

18 






" January, 


1850, 








16 






" February 
" March, 










14 
22 






" April, 
" May, 










11 
16 





364 



The above statement exhibits a number far above the averasre 
mortality for a year ; for, it will be observed, that those months 
are included (June, July, and August) during which the cholera 
prevailed in the city, and of which a large proportion of those 
who died in those months were victims. 

Three of the above number died of the effects of burns ; six 
were drowned ; two died of the effects of drinking cold water 
when over-heated ; seven of intemperance ; of apoplexy, eight ; 
casualty, five ; and of old age or natural decay, five. 

There were four above 90 years of age, seven above 80, seven- 
teen above 70, twenty-seven above 60, twenty-three above 50, 
forty-three above 40, and fifty-nine above 30 ; under two years, 

22 



338 HISTORICAL AND 

88. Non-residents, who died in the city during the year, are 
also included in the number. 

Many of the inhabitants, as is shown by the above statement, 
live to a very old age. There were, a few years since, in one 
family alone, on Bermuda Street, five individuals — three white 
ladies and two coloured servants, one male and one female — 
whose united ages amounted to 403 years, averaging 80 years 
and 7 months each ! They Avere all raised in or near Norfolk, 
and had lived together on the same premises for more than fifty 
years. The oldest was the coloured man, aged 95. In Decem- 
ber, 1840, there were residing in the town eight persons of the 
highest respectability, Avhose aggregate ages made 669 years — 
averaging 83 years 7| months ! There are many persons here 
who have passed the age of three score and ten, and a number of 
octoo-enarians, both in the parlour and the kitchen. There was a 
lady of respectability, who died in 1852, aged 96, who had enjoyed 
almost uninterrupted good health, and whose intellectual facul- 
ties were in a sound state a short time before she died, and who 
did not require the attendance of a physician for more than sixty 

years. 

We add here, merely as a somewhat singular fact, that there 
is in this city a woman of colour, aged 88, who, in 1850, had 
never required the attendance of a physician, having never been 
seriously sick. She had lost only one tooth, which was occa- 
sioned by a cold many years ago ; and her eyesight was as good 
as ever, being able to sew on fine work, and to thread a cambric 
needle ! The duties of her vocation were laborious and constant, 
requiring much walking ; but being very active, faithful, and in- 
dustrious, her labours were cheerfully performed. 

Very many other cases could be added, of extraordinary age 
and protracted good health, and'strength of mind and body, among 
both sexes, white and coloured, including even some centena- 
rians.* But, perhaps, enough has been said on the subject; and 
the facts adduced afford, it is believed, sufficiently decisive proof 
of the salubrity of the location ; and these remarks, of course, 
apply with equal force to Portsmouth and the adjacent country. 

* John Cuffee, a slave, died here in 1836, aged 120, and Billy Ingram in 
1852, aged 117! 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 339 



CHAPTER XLIIL 

Buildings — Sites for Farms — Excursions to Old Point, &c. — The Ladies — Their 
Beauty, &c. — Attachment of the Citizens to the Place — Hospitality — Intelli- 
gence — Morals — Sabbath Schools — Mechanics— Churches — Order — Sunday 
Markets — The Sabbath— Its Violation — Should be kept Holy — The Appoint- 
ment Necessary to Man — Its Enemies — Its Services. 

An intelligent writer of another State, has alluded, in appro- 
priate terms, to the many beautiful public and private buildings 
in the city, to the handsome and picturesque sites for farms and 
villas just without its limits, and on the banks of the river and 
its circuitous branches ; and to the frequent opportunities for 
delightful excursions to Old Point, the Capes, &c. He also pays 
a suitable tribute to the most attractive of all earthly objects. 
"I am pleased," he remarks, "with the social character of the 
place, and the ladies in particular. They are whole-souled Vir- 
ginians. As regards beauty, intelligence, and other necessary 
accomplishments, they are second to none." Herein consists, 
doubtless, the principal and most interesting of all the attractions 
here, as well as elsewhere, — the "beauty, intelligence, and ac- 
complishments" of those on whom the happiness of man and the 
welfare of communities so greatly depend, — whose encouraging 
smiles, and winning charms, whether in the relation of mother, 
wife, sister, daughter, or friend, are always among the chief de- 
lights of life and constitute the imperishable and indestructible 
cement of the sacred family compact, and of society at large. 
What a Northern letter-writer says in relation to the women 
of the South, applies very well to the ladies of this section. 
He states that he was " particularly struck with their beauty of 
form, — their symmetrical and harmonious figures. In this, they 
excel Northern women. Many of them dress with exquisite taste, 
— very richly, but seldom gaudily or with any display of tinsel. 
The proverbial affability and urbanity of the Southern character, 
finds its fullest development in the women. The Southern lady 



340 HISTORICAL AND 

is naturally easy, unembarrassed, and polite. You may go into 
the country where you please, from town, village, and post-office, 
— you may call at the poorest house you can find, provided you 
don't get among ' croakers,' and, whether you accost maid or 
matron, you will always be answered with politeness, and treated 
with spontaneous courtesy." 

"The citizens of Norfolk," says an observant writer, "have 
ever shown great attachment to the place, and rarely departed 
from it to reside elsewhere without reluctance, and, in many 
cases, with the disposition to return. A comparison of the names 
and families for fifty years past, shows this fact very plainly. 
"VVe may go almost a century back, and the truth of the remark 
is still more apparent." 

Like the other towns of the Old Dominion, Norfolk has long 
been proverbial for the obliging and hospitable disposition of its 
inhabitants. There is here, and has long been observable, to 
some extent, a dignified tone of character, combined, in many 
instances, with literary attainments, and commercial, political, 
and general intelligence. 

"No city in the United States," said one who possessed every 
opportunity of judging correctly on the subject, "has better 
morals than Norfolk. There are nine churches opened every 
Sabbath for divine worship, and the citizens very generally ob- 
serve the day religiously. Opportunity is also offered for reli- 
gious instruction in the Sunday Schools, which are well attended, 
and superintended by excellent officers and teachers, and well 
supplied with extensive libraries." 

The same writer also observes : 

" There is no town in the United States that can boast of a 
more orderly, moral, and industrious class of mechanics, and none 
who are better clad and housed, and in the enjoyment of more of 
the comforts of life than, our Norfolk mechanics." 

There are now fourteen instead of nine churches open on the 
Sabbath, and the erection of others is in contemplation. It is, 
indeed, a pleasant sight to witness, on the holy day of rest, the 
multitudes repairing to the different sanctuaries of God, to hear 
the "glad tidings of salvation." 

The inhabitants are an order-loving people. If the place has 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 341 

ever been disgraced by a mob or riot, the fact has not come to 
our knowledge. 

The custom of holdiYig Sunday markets in the city during the 
summer months, to which it may not be inappropriate to allude 
here, is, however, certainly a violation of the Divine injunction 
respecting the sacred and merciful institution of the Sabbath ; 
and the practice is very reasonably objected to by many reflect- 
ing citizens. The alteration of an excellent ordinance, passed 
in 18-1:9 (which prohibited traffic on that day), so as to allow the 
desecration of the Sabbath by the holding of the public market, 
has given very considerable dissatisfaction. It is insisted that 
there is no absolute necessity in the case, and that the custom is 
an infringement of the Divine command. Every person, rich or 
poor, who has a suitable regard for the day, and desires to keep 
it holy, could, with a little management, make all necessary pro- 
vision on Saturday for the following day, especially if Saturday 
evening markets were held, as in Baltimore and some other 
cities, and which was formerly the custom here. Sunday mar- 
keting necessarily leads to bad consequences, and causes much 
unnecessary labour in fishing, killing and preparing beef, poultry, 
&c., gathering fruit and vegetables, and the additional fatigue of 
horses used in conveying articles to market. The violation of 
the fourth commandment by societies and communities, as well 
as by individuals, has always been followed, soon or late, by 
visible evidences of the displeasure of a just and merciful God ; 
and this particular aspect of the subject merits the attention and 
careful consideration of those in whose hands are, to a great 
extent, entrusted the welfare and destiny of the city. 

"Were this to be the last stroke of our pen," said an able 
divine, " and we had reached the last moment of our life, we 
should employ both the one and the other in enforcing on our 
readers the divine injunction, 'Remember the Sabbath-day, to 
keep it holy.' For, if the threatenings of God are to be believed, 
if all history is not a lie, if it be notorious that genteel Sabbath- 
breakers are totally destitute of Christian experience, and if the 
confessions which the profligate have made in our jails and on 
our gibbets cannot be invalidated, then the face of the Lord is 
set against those that turn the Sabbath into a day of pastime or 



342 HISTORICAL AND 

of gainful toll. And, on the other hand, if the promises of God 
are true, if the concurrent voice of sacred and profane history is 
to be received ; if the testimony of righteous kings, just judges, 
godly bishops, and the holiest men in all lands, is entitled to 
credit ; and if the joyous experience, the domestic happiness, the 
sanctified prosperity, and the peaceful and triumphant deaths, of 
myriads of God's people, are to be regarded as evidences of his 
favour, then it is demonstrated that God loves, honours, and 
saves, all those who ' Remember the Sabbath-day, to keep it 
holy.' " 

John Richard Farre, M.D., of London, a physician of great 
eminence, made the following remarks, with others of equal 
force, before a committee of the House of Commons, on the 
observance of the Sabbath : — " Researches in Physiology, by the 
analogy of the working of Providence in nature, will show that 
the Divine commandment is not to be considered as an arbitrary 
enactment, but as an appointment necessary to man. This is 
the position in which I would place it, 'as contradistinguished 
from precept and legislation. I would point out the Sabbatical 
rest as necessary to man, and that the great enemies of the Sab- 
bath, and, consequently, the enemies of man, are all laborious 
exercises of the mind or body, and dissipation, which force the 
circulation on that day on which it should repose ; while relaxa- 
tion from the ordinary cares of life, the enjoyment of repose in 
the bosom of one's family, with the religious studies and duties 
which the day enjoins, — not one of which, if rightly exercised, 
tends to abridge life, — constitute the beneficial and appropriate 
service of the day." Let it be remembered, then, that a suita- 
ble regard for the Sabbath is among the most important requi- 
sites in any community, inasmuch as it tends to strengthen the 
foundation, uphold the pillars, and render more symmetrical and 
attractive the splendid social fabric of enlightened Christian 
society. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 



343 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

Commercial Facilities— The Navigation— The U. S. Ship Pennsylvania— The 
Harbour— Streets, &c.— Wharves — Tublic Buildings— Churches, Banks, 
Schools, Papers, &c.— Companies' and Societies— Packet Lines— Marine 
Railways— Manufactories— Wealth, Usefulness, and Influence— Merchants, 
Warehouses, Capital— Commercial Experience and Ability— Improvement- 
Railroads, Steamships, &c. — Commercial Advancement. 

The facilities for commercial operations in Norfolk, as before 
stated, are very great. The warehouses are large, commodious, 
and well adapted to the storage of produce. The water front is 
spacious, well sheltered from the northern and eastern winds in 
winter, and open to the southerly and southwesterly breezes in 
summer. " The navigation is not obstructed by ice for a single 
day once in half a century. The great ship Pennsylvania, the 
largest vessel in the world, is now riding at her moorings, within 
a stone's throw of the shore, and, if equipped for service abroad, 
could be at sea in a few hours without the aid of steam. Tl^e 
eastern and southern branches of the Elizabeth River, in uniting,')^ 
form the harbour of Norfolk — a basin some four miles in circum- 
ference, with a width of seven-eighths of a mile. The City of 
Norfolk occupies the northern and eastern shore, with a water 
front more than two milesin extent; while Portsmouth, Gosport, 
and the Navy Yard, range along the southern and western 
banks. 

" The outlet is sufficiently capacious, and yet the harbour, in 
sailors' phrase, is so ' land-locked' as to afford entire security 
to vessels of every class, from the small oyster boat to the ship 
of the line. The bottom is composed of stiff mud to hold the 
anchor, and is free from sand bars, rocks, and all other obstruc- 
tions. A fine anchorage extends from the basin down to the 
roads, distant seven miles ; indeed, the harbour of Norfolk may 
be said to terminate only at the point where Hampton Roads is 
merged into the Chesapeake, being composed of an inner and 
outer haven, where the fleets of the world could lie in perfect 



344 HISTORICAL AND 

security in all kinds of wind and weather, ready to embark on 
their ocean voyage, whenever the mariner chooses to lift his 
anchor and spread his sails to the breeze." 

There are in the city about one hundred and thirty-five streets 
and lanes, very many of which are well paved. There are also 
about a dozen squares, courts, &c. The wharves extend from 
Town Point on the west to the Drawbridge on the East, — 
nearly one mile, — are forty in number, and mostly in good order. 

There are about 60 public buildings, including 14 Churches,* 
Mechanics' Hall, Ashland Hall, the City Hall, Norfolk Aca- 
demy, &c. 

The number of Banks is 7 ; Hotels, 5 ; Seminaries and High 
Schools, 9 ; Daily Papers, 5, with which are connected Tri- 
weekly do., 3, Weekly do., 3; News and Reading Rooms, 2. 

There are 5 Fire Companies, 2 Volunteer Companies, a Canal 
Company, Drawbridge Company, Insurance Company, Gas 
Company, Telegraph Company, and Hotel Company ; a Mecha- 
nical Benevolent Society, Seamen's Friend Society, Provident 
Society, Humane Society, Female Orphan Society, Philharmonic 
Society, Concordia Society, and several Debating Societies. 
The secret societies are: The Masons, Odd-Fellows, Sons of 
Temperance, Rechabites, United Mechanics, Druids, and Red 
Men. 

There are regular steam-packet lines from Norfolk to New 
York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Richmond, Hamp- 
ton, Old Point, Eastern Shore, Matthews, &c. ; stage line to 
Edenton, Elizabeth City (N. C), &c. There are three Marine 
Railways and Ship Building establishments, f extensive Iron 

* 2 Protestant Episcopal ; 3 Methodist Episcopal, including 1 coloured ; 1 
Presbyterian; 5 Baptist, including 3 coloured; 1 Catholic; 1 Methodist Pro- 
testant ; 1 Mariners' Bethel. 

f It is especially worthy of note, that the dock-yards of Mr. Nash, Mr. Fe- 
rebee, and the Messrs. Graves, of Norfolk, -with their well-constructed marine 
railways, aiford great facilities for building and repairing vessels of every 
class. And some of our merchants have had in contemplation the construction 
of a dry-dock, of ample dimensions. 

Messrs. Page and Allen, of Portsmouth, are very extensively engaged in 
ship-building, and have acquired celebrity in this important line of mechanical 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 345 

Works, Carriage, Furniture, and Cotton Manufactories ; Cordage 
and Oakum Works, &c., &c., at -which work can be done as well 
and as cheaply as at the establishments of the northern cities. 
The capital invested in Manufactures is about $570,000, and 
the probable annual product $1,140,000. Real Estate about 
$5,000,000. 

There are here, as well as elsewhere, instances in which in- 
dustry, fidelity, and persevering eflFort, amid discouragements, 
with small pecuniary means in the beginning, have been amply 
rewarded with wealth, usefulness, and influence. The popula- 
tion of Norfolk includes individuals whose business capacity and 
commercial information Avill, it is believed, compare favourably 
with those of other cities. A gentleman of intelligence and ob- 
servation, in alluding to the various facilities for trade, — our 
deep river*, extensive wharves, spacious and well-built ware- 
houses (more than enough to store the produce of the Roanoke 
Valley), the large capitalists, rich landholders, &c., — calls at- 
tention to the fact, that by far the greater part of a million 
of money was, within a few weeks, subscribed by the citizens, 
to form part of the capital of an independent bank, before 
the charter was granted. He alludes also to our able profes- 
sional men, as well as to merchants of skill and experience, 
who have been devoted to commercial pursuits from their boy- 
hood, — regularly trained in the school and counting-room for _ 
extensive mercantile operations. And yet " the wonder grows," ' 
that Norfolk should even now begin to advance in wealth and 
importance. Truly, the greater wonder should be, that she has 
not long ago given evidences of a more mature growth ; that her 
progress in the onward march of improvement has not been much 
more rapid. The truth is, there has, for a long time, been too 
much talk and too little action. But, thanks to the energy and 
enterprise of some of the knowing and influential gentlemen of 
this and other communities, we hear now of additional railroads 
and canals, large packet ships and ocean steamers ; and they are 

pursuit. A splendid clipper-built ship of 1,500 tons, the largest vessel ever 
constructed south of New York, will be launched from their yard, and, pro- 
bably, careering on her rapid course upon the ocean waves, before the close of 
the spring of 1853. 



346 HISTORICAL AND 

spoken of in good earnest and witli commendable zeal. Some of 
these enterprises, of great prospective benefit to Norfolk, Ports- 
mouth, and vicinity, have already been commenced ; and, now that 
the public mind has been turned to the subject — now that strong 
men are beginning to shake off the shackles of lethargy, and are 
determined to take hold of and urge forward to completion, these 
means of wealth and advancement, no opposition, from any 
source whatever, will be sufficient, it is believed, to prevent suc- 
cess. And it is hoped the bright day is not very distant, when 
commerce and her attendants will flourish here according to the 
original design of nature. But, there are some who object to all 
schemes of advancement, who grumble at every praiseworthy at- 
tempt to redeem the place from the charge of slow movement 
and supineness, to which it has been amenable. 



CHAPTER XLV. 

Talent and Literary Taste — Light Reading — Cheap Literature — Its Injurious 
Tendency — Evidences of Literary Capacity — Literary Works — Mr. Maxwell's 
Poems — Letters by a South Carolinian — H. B. Grigsby, Esq. — Dr. Alexander 
Whitehead, an Accomplished Teacher and Scholai' — Beautiful Inscription 
— C. A. Rodney — Thomas Blanchard — His Ode on the Death of Washington 
— "Rosehill," by a Virginian — Poems by Quilp — "I Hear thy Voice" — "A 
Child's Burial." 

It is quite reasonable to suppose, that in a city as limited in 
size even, as Norfolk, there should be manifested no small degree 
of talent ; and that in a place where the culture of the intellect 
is generally quite well attended to, and the advantages of a 
liberal education are much appreciated, there should be a con- 
siderable share of literary taste ; although it may be remarked 
here, with regard to the education of youth of both sexes, that 
there is not sufficient efibrt put forth, either by them or their 
parents, in many cases to bring out, cultivate, and mature, a 
taste for solid and useful literary pursuits and acquisitions. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 347 

There is, also, among the young, as well as those of mature age, 
a vast deal too much of light, chaffy reading here, as well as 
elsewhere, at the present day.* Numbers of either sex are 
leaving the schools, and passing out upon the stage of active life, 
with fair promise, and often with striking evidences of mental 
capacity, which, if properly cultivated and encouraged, might 
reflect honour on the place and prove a blessing to the country. 
Sketches, essays, dissertations, &c., in prose and poetry, of solid 
merit, would be frequently written, put in the form of books, 
and sent out to aid in enlightening and evangelizing the world. 
But instead of this, the youthful mind, just ready to bloom forth 
into strength and beauty, is, alas, too frequently diverted from 
the pursuit of useful knowledge and real wisdom, by the injurious 
and debilitating, aye, and demoralizing cheap literature of the 
day, from the presses of the Northern and Eastern cities of our 
own country, as well as from those of England and elsewhere — 
reprinted, "got up" in the cheapest and most saleable style, and 
published (the trashy stuff is) to the world, to satiate the morbid 
appetite of thousands — 

" Oft crammed full 
Of poisonous error, blackening every page ; 
And oftener still of trifling, second-hand 
Remark, and old, diseased, putrid thought ; 
And miserable incident, at war 
With nature, with itself, and truth at war ; 
Yet charming still the greedy reader on, 
'Till done, he tried to recollect his thoughts, 
And nothing found but dreaming emptiness." 

There are many individuals in this City and vicinity who can 
write well, and who do occasionally give abundant evidence of 
their capacity in this respect. Suitable incentives and practice 
only, are required to mature the taste and judgment of many 
who hesitate to give publicity to their productions. The papers 
of our City, and the literary periodicals of other cities, occa- 

* " It produces a feverish imagination, prevents the improvement of the mind, 
unfits it for the pursuits of business, induces a dislike to religious subjects, 
benumbs the conscience, and prompts to deeds of licentiousness." — Dunn. 



348 HISTORICAL AND 

sionallj contain very pleasing testimony of the truth of what we 
have stated. 

But literary works, both in prose and poetry, whose authors 
are, or were formerly citizens of Norfolk, have passed through 
the press. It is not our purpose to notice all of them, but it 
may be considered as coming within our plan to allude briefly to 
several. 

" The Poems of Mr. Maxwell,"* said an intelligent and obser- 
vant writer, in 1827, " have attained higher celebrity abroad 
than at home, and in New England than ' in his own, his native 
land,' He is eminently successful in imitating the nervous 
energy and innocent simplicity of Goldsmith; but though he were 
in all respects nearly his equal, he could not complain of neglect, 
when the modest worth of the son of Erin is disregarded by the 
vitiated taste of the day, and his sympathetic tenderness eclipsed 
by the mock-heroic ' Border Tales' of Scott, and the splendid 
phrensies of Lord Byron. His ' Walcott' and ' Columbian Bards' 
are excellent of their kind ; and I cannot refrain mentioning, for 
the honour of Virginia, that his Poems were highly approved by 
one, whose approbation Byron, in his proudest glory, would have 
been delighted to possess, by Boscoe, himself a fine poet, and the 
author of the Life of Leo X., and Lorenzo de'Medici." 

"Letters by a South Carolinian." Norfolk, published by C. 
Bonsai : Shields and Ashburn, printers, 1827. 

These Letters are well known to have emanated from the pen 
of Hugh B. Grigsby, Esq., of Norfolk. f They were written 
when he was quite a young man, and contain most excellent de- 
scriptions of several distinguished citizens of Norfolk, &c. They 
gave unmistakable evidence of the talents which the author is so 
generally known to possess. 

Mr. G.'s able conduct of the "American Beacon" has already 
been alluded to. His style is bold, lively, and clear — remarkable 
for correctness and perspicuity. It is regretted that he should 
have so early vacated the editorial chair. We find it conve- 

* See pages 203 and 204. 

f Mr. G. is the son of the late Rev. Benjamin Grigsby, a distinguished and 
devout Presbyterian minister of this city. He was an able preacher, a devoted 
pastor, and an accomplished gentleman. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 349 

nient to make some extracts from his very interesting work. 
These will answer very well to convey to the reader's mind an 
idea of his nice, discriminating judgment, as well as the high 
order of his descriptive powers. 

" Of Dr. Alexander Whitehead," remarks the aide Avritcr, to 
whom we have just hriefly alluded, " who has passed from the 
memory of most of the existing generation, one who sat at his 
feet, and who appreciated his great learning, may fitly say some- 
thing. He was a Scotchman by birth, and emigrated in early 
manhood to Norfolk, where he taught the Latin and Greek lan- 
guages with great success. He was no common scholar ; for he 
not only taught elementary and critical parts of the learned 
tongues with the strictest fidelity, but expatiated on the felicitous 
diction, the noble sentiments, and chaste imagining of the higher 
Latin and Greek classics, with a skill and eloquence that James 
Moon and Andrew Dalzel would have heard with admiration. 
The writer of this article has seen him in his old age relish the 
sly jests of Lucian, and smile at the playful conceits of Anacreon, 
and he has seen him weep, as, mindful of the loss of a lovely 
daughter, he read in the first book of Iliad the touching story of 
Brisses. 

" He wrote Latin with great facility and with uncommon ele- 
gance. The beautiful inscription on a silver vase, presented by 
the citizens of Norfolk, thirty years ago, to Ccesar A. Rodney, 
of Delaware, for his magnanimous defence of the late Commodore 
Barron, was from his classic pen. Such a scholar the fashion of 
modern education has not produced, and may never produce. 
He reached the age of seventy, and, although his latter years 
were embittered by the loss of a lovely daughter, and by a tor- 
turing disease, which gave him but a small respite from actual 
agony, he bore his burdens gracefully, and died the death of a 
Christian. Even in such adverse circumstances the love of litera- 
ture never forsook him ; and when a friend would visit him in his 
confinement, and be almost overcome with the sight of his suiFer- 
inss, a casual remark would sometimes lead him into a discus- 
sion of some topic on morals or literature, in which his fine genius 
would display itself in all its original brightness, and his know- 
ledge of the classics appear in all the freshness and buoyancy of 



350 HISTORICAL AND 

his earlier years. When he left Norfolk to attend the University 
of Edinburgh, he was accompanied by his pupil, the late Doctor 
Hodges, and, perhaps, by Dr. Wm. B. Selden ; or, at all events, 
the late Dr. S. and he, were at the University at the same time, 
and were, for many years, associates in the practice of physic." 

Thomas Blanchard, Esq., formerly a citizen of Norfolk, was 
" a ripe scholar, a fine classic writer, and a gifted poet." His 
Ode on the Death of Washington, written January 1st, 1800, 
shortly after that lamented event, and published in the Herald, 
" created quite a sensation at the time ; and such was its popula- 
rity, that the editors found it necessary to publish a second 
edition of it to answer the public demand — which is saying a 
great deal more for the literary taste and patriotic feeling of 
that day than could be claimed for the present, in our com- 
munity." 

We take pleasure in presenting a portion of it to the reader, 
who will appreciate its merits, and award a suitable meed of 
praise for so creditable and able an effort, on a subject at once 
solemn, impressive, and deeply interesting. 



TO THE MEMORY OF GEORGE WASHINGTON. 

GENERAL OF THE ARMIES, AND FIRST PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES 
OF AMERICA. 

" Procul, prooul ! este profani." 

Let no obtrusive, no unhallowed eye, 

On -wliich the rays of virtue dimly beam. 

Let no cold mind, fashioned by common themes, 

No breast, that glows with a patriot zeal, 

Presume to violate the peaceful verse. 

The pious offering to a Hero's shade. 

I dare (since some must dare) to send abroad. 
On every saddened breeze that sweeps the earth. 
The plaintive accents of a general grief. 
Then rising upwards from the vale of tears, 
Essay, with rapid step, to mount on high 
To the raised summit of the hill of praise. 
But e'er the task begins, I lowly bow 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 351 

Not to some storied Muse or fabled God, 

But with raised mind, fixed eye, and eager thought, 

I bend to Him, 

Who from the mountains of omniscient light, 

Drew a strong ray, and lent it to the earth. 

I ask some pitying spirit of the sky. 

To bend in silence o'er the honoured theme, 

To guide the pencil and direct the strain. 

For thee, lost Washington, the new-born Babe 
Wears on its tender form the dress of woe ; 
For thee, the Infant shows its feeble arm. 
Bearing, for thee, the emblem of the tomb ; 
The Child, spurning the sports of early life. 
Weeps, while its mother reads the tale of death ; 
For thee, the Virgin rends her sunny robe. 
And veils from day the radiance of her eye ; 
Pensive along the pebbled beach, the Youth 
Muses in thought profound on deeds of thine ; 
For thee, the ISIatrons pour the piercing strain, 
And tell the stranger, their great Son is dead ; 
For thee, the Warrior piles his useless arms, 
And waits in silence, for the word — Depart ! 
For thee, great Chief, the Fathers of the land 
Suspend their labours, and their minds unstring ; 
And sad Columbia sits, her bow unbent, 
Her darts all scattered, and her quiver broke, 
And sends incessant on the passing winds, 
The sorrowing tidings on to distant worlds. 

* * ^ * * 

Ye blest companions of his early years. 
Who saw the youth fast ripening into man, 
Lend your glad praises to his spotless morn. 
Virgins and youths, if e'er you hope to lay 
Your hearts, high beating, to the breast of love, 
Join in the chorus of my grateful verse. 
Ye veteran bands, brave partners of his toil ! 
Who drove through frost and fire at his command, 
Through all the changes of eventful war, 
Sound the loud clarions to your General's praise, 
The great " conductor" of your lightning arms. 
Ye Sires ! who frame the law, and ye who judge. 
Rise from your seats, and on the Hero's tomb 
Plant with your reverend hands the honoured wreath. 
Rich decked and woven by a Virgin train ; 
And let the land, from all its mountains, send 
A general echo, to the great applause, 
Till the long peal of praise, America, 



352 HISTORICAL AND 

Rolls o'er thy cloud-topped hills — sounds through thy -woods — 
Floats onward with thy streams — surrounds thy shores — 
And, sweeping o'er the wide Atlantic waves, 
Resounds the plaudit through the Eastern World ! 

Whether thy spirit, Washington, sits high 
In the full centre of a dazzling orb. 
Or risen far beyond the roll of stars. 
Rests in the radiance of eternal light ; 
Whether it wanders through celestial space. 
Or sits with seraphs on the hills of heaven. 
Deign, with propitious eye, to view the land 
That bears with reverence every mark of thee, 
And from the " unknown regions of the sky," 
With wonted kindness, shield Columbia's sons. 

" Roseliill," by a Virginian, wbicL. was published about twenty 
years ago, was generally ascribed to the pen of Thomas C. Tabb, 
Esq., a talented lawyer of this city, and at this time a member of 
the Senate of Virginia. This work attracted considerable notice, 
and was read with a very good degree of interest. It is a 
pleasant, smoothly written tale, of a moral tendency. A vein of 
piety runs through its pages, and it contains many beautiful 
passages. It was favourably noticed by some of the leading 
reviewers of the time at which it appeared. 

" The Bridal Ballad and other Poems, by Quilp," appeared in 
1846. Quilp is the fictitious name adopted by Richard Halstead, 
Esq., of our city. The collection contains evidences of very re- 
spectable poetic talent ; although some of the stanzas will not 
bear the test of criticism. The following are among the pieces, 
and they are taken without very particular care in the selection. 
There are others of equal, if not superior merit.* 

* The design in this feature of this work was principally to notice talent or in- 
stances of intellectual capacity, and to furnish specimens as evidence thereof, 
with but little regard to other considerations. This part of the task, though 
not unpleasant, was not found to be the least difficult, and it is hoped the in- 
telligent reader will not find it the least interesting department of the work. 



DESCllIPTIVE SKETCHES. 35i 

I HEAR THY VOICE. 

BY QUILP. 

I hear thy voice burst from the whispering grove : 

In every star, thy image pure I see ; 
The warbling birds that wake their lays of love, 
Bring thoughts of thee. 

It matters not, where'er my pathway lies, 

On the green earth, or o'er the surging sea — 
Where'er I wander, my sick, longing eyes 
Are full of thee. 

The music tone of trembling tenderness, 

That wraps the soul in voiceless ecstasy ; 
The sighs that soothe the bursting heart's distress, 
I breathe for thee ! 

When twilight fancies fill the shadowy aii*, 
And memory holds her pensive revery ; 
When eyes are moist in pity and in prayer — 
Remember me. 

A CHILD'S BURIAL. 

BY QUILP. 

Pale and lifeless, pale and lifeless, 

On her lowly bier she lies ; 
Form all faded — darkness shaded, 

Where were erst her beaming eyes. 
Where's the beauty once flung round her ? 

Where's the heart we loved so well ? 
Hark ! a spirit-voice is answering 

Sweetly — though insensible : 

" Brother, weep not; sister, sigh not; 
Father, mother, dry your tears ; 
Bend not o'er my bier, I lie not 
Where this mortal part appears. 

" Let it perish ! 'tis but ashes. 
Falling on the parent bed — 
Look aloft and bless thy Saviour, 
That thy little child is dead. 
23 



354 HISTORICAL AND 

"Days of sickness, nights of anguish, 
These -were mine from early birth ; 
Would ye have me longer languish 
On the pitiless cold earth ? 

"Ponder ! think upon my spirit. 
Where it sits enthroned above — 
Ponder ! souls like mine inherit 
Hapi^iness, and life, and love ! 

"Then, sweet brother, dearest mother, 
Father, sister, have no fears — 
They who die to live in heaven, 
0, remember not with tears I" 

Pale and lifeless, pale and lifeless. 

On they bear her to the tomb; 
Hearts that wring with keenest anguish, 

Shudder o'er the cold grave's gloom. 
Sods are shovelled o'er her coffin — 

Will their sound be soon forgot ? 
Strangers pass, but they, her kindred — 

How they linger round the spot ? 
Cold and lifeless, cold and lifeless. 

With old mother earth she lies ; 
But a bright, new star is added 

To the pure celestial skies. 



CHAPTER XLVL 

Ladies of Talent — Contributions to the Press — The Female Mind and Poetry — 
"Dreaming," by Fanny Fielding — Extracts from the writings of another — 
Nature's Teachings — The Phantom. 

Among the talented and educated ladies of Norfolk and 
vicinity, there are several whose productions have been exten- 
sively read and admired. Some excellent pieces have recently 
appeared in the papers of the city. The lines that next follow 
are certainly not without merit. They contain much of true 
poetic feeling and spirit, — breathing, as it were, lofty and en- 
nobling sentiments. The intelligent reader requires no further 



DESCIIIPTIVE SKETCUES. 355 

comment from us. They will be read with interest by those who 
appreciate refined literary taste and genius, glowing with pure 
and pious thought, and containing evidences of the deep and 
pleasurable emotions of the fair author's heart. 

"The fondness of the female mind for poetry," says an able 
contributor to the gems of literature and the beauties of senti- 
ment, "renders it important that we should have female poets. 
A greater misfortune could hardly befall it, than to be compelled 
to gratify its love for the tasteful and sublime at the shrine of many 
poets of our sex. Thankful are we that they have gone abroad 
and gathered their own poetry amid the affluence of nature. 
The birds of golden plumage have sung with them, and the fra- 
grant flowers have breathed perfume upon their censers. If they 
have spoken in a still, small voice, that voice has been heard, 
where the earthquake and the storm would have been disre- 
garded." 

The name appended to the following is fictitious. 

DREAMING. 

BY FANNY FIELDING. 

I am a dreamer, yet I would not give 

One fair creation of the mystic spell 

Which Fancy, in her sweet philanthropy, 

Weaves for the recreation of her child, 

For all the more substantial toys that please 

The craving spirits of the world at large. 

I would not thus exult, yet would persuade. 

My fellow-man to trample under foot 

The money-loving spirit of the age, — 

To break his bonds, and wash from oif his hands. 

The dust of ledgers, which, mayhap, in time 

Will form a barrier around his heart, 

Unyielding still, though all good influence 

Be brought in might to bear upon the foe. 

I am a dreamer. Let me not exult, 

But rather thankful be that the great book 

Of Nature, with its rich embellishments, 

Lies e'en within my reach, and let the thought 

Lead my glad heart from thence to Nature's God, 

In grateful praise for all the beauteous things 

Which people this fair earth ; and more than this, 



356 HISTORICAL AND 

That in each dew-gemmed flower that scents the air, — 

Each bird that carols gaily in the morn, 

Each star that gems the azure vault of heaven, 

Each rustling leaf that whispers me to sleep, 

He has made mc a friend, and sweet converse 

We ofttimes hold together. Beaviteous world! 

Still changing, yet lovely in its change. 

I am a dreamer, and the soft Springtime 

Is fraught with many a sunny phantasy, 

And beautiful creation to dispel 

Clouds which might cast their shadows roimd my heart. 

Iris-hued Spring ! thy fragrant breath awakes 

Sweet visions of bright promise and delight, 

Promise that though the winter of the grave 

Enwrap each fragile flower of human mould, 

A brighter Springtime cometh, when each bud 

Untimely blasted shall revive again, 

And bloom immortal in sweet Paradise. 

I am a dreamer. Stars of Summer night, 

I owe ye much that in the quiet spell 

With which your gaze has charmed my very soul, 

I learned to dream of heaven wherein ye dwell. 

And I have fancied that each fleecy cloud, 

Flitting across the midnight quiet sky. 

Has borne upon its frail and shadowy form 

The image of some dear departed one. 

I am a dreamer. 0, ye Autumn winds. 

What tales of mystery ye tell to me. 

Of Time and Death, I hear ye whispering 

In every leaf that rustles 'neath my feet. 

But they are beautiful, these Autumn leaves, 

And oft when gazing on their brilliant hues 

I have bethought me of the Christian's end, 

Who, having well performed his mission here. 

Grows beai\tiful in death, as the halo 

Of that bright land to which he hastens on 

Kindles new lustre in the fading eye, 

And sheds a glow celestial on his brow. 

And Winter nights, shall I foi'get ye now, 
While thus recounting all the kindly things 
To which I owe my debt of gratitude ? 
Shall I forget ye, with your howling winds 
Lulling the soul to dreamy slumberings ? 
These, and Earth's snowy winding-sheet without, 
Within, the ruddy glow of social hearth, 
Rivalling smiles and glances not less bright. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 3'57 

And wlien deej) midnight sobei'ed all the scene, 
Closing bright eyes in slumber's sweet repose, 
By the dim ember-light I've sat me down, 
Among the cushions of some antique chair. 
And watched the shadows flickering on the wall. 
These have I oft invested with the forms 
Of angel visitants, and fancied me 
That their sweet mission was to guard the sleep 
Of youth and innocence, and to bestow 
The gift of peace upon our household band. 

Who would not be a dreamer? God of Heaven 1 
If loving all the lovely things of earth, — 
Adoring the good, praising the beautiful, 
And hearing Thee in all things, be to dream, 
Grant, in thy mercy, that the spell remain, 
Until I may my reverie exchange 
For all the blest realities of Heaven. 

The following extracts evidently show that the writer is en- 
dowed with mental qualities which give promise of literary dis- 
tinction. Her contributions are readily published in some of 
the most ably conducted and widely circulated magazines of the 
country. Her writings, in both prose and poetry, are various, 
and, in some cases, voluminous. There is real beauty in the 
stanzas that follow ; and, we may add, that they have been highly 
commended by critics of celebrity. The writer exhibited, at an 
early age, a talent for poetic composition, which has been/dili- 
gently cultivated. She graduated at the Patapsco Female In- 
stitute, Maryland, in 1850 ; since which time, she has been stu- 
diously engaged in those commendable literary pursuits, that 
are calculated to improve, invigorate, and mature, those facul- 
ties of mind to which some of her writings have already borne 
testimony. 

» NATURE'S TEACHINGS. 

BY M. H. B. 

Go, gaze upon creation, man. 
Her every form and feature scan ; 

* * * * 

Each stream, each flower, each little bird, 
Whose sonnet sweet so oft is heard, 



358 HISTORICAL AND 

As borne upon the evening breeze, 
That softly murmurs through the trees ; 
List to the voice of evening star, 
Which shines in heaven's dome afar. 
Its scintillations soft, though bright, 
Upon the sombre shades of night; 
Its lustre beams in form so mild. 
It e'en delights the little child. 

Go, then, at morning's rosy dawn, 
And walk upon the verdant lawn, 
While moistened yet with mists of night, 
And gaze upon the beauteous sight, — 
Each spire of grace with dew-drops clear, 
All trembling in the morning air, 
A thousand crystal pearls display. 
More brilliant than the diamond's ray. 
List to the birdling's artless song 
As on light wing it soars along. 
Rejoicing in the light of day, 
And blithely skimming on its way. 
See how the clouds of rosy morn 
Do smile in beauty at its dawn ; 
And mark the rising sun, how bright 
He, in his glory, sheds his light 
On opening flower and dancing stream! 
See how his rays do brightly beam 
Upon the earth. The seas, the lakes — 
All nature, of the boon partakes. 

Go then at sunset's holy hour. 
When Solus doth so gently lower 
His face beyond the western hills, 
And busy hum of mortals stills — 
Tinges the clouds with crimson hue. 
Presenting to the ravished view 
A sight sublime, to fill the mind 
With wonder and delight combined. 
Go where the mountain waves roll high, 
And lift their snow-caps to the sky ; 
Oh! can a sight more beauteous be 
Than the wide, boundless, deep blue sea, 
With waves all fringed with silver bright, 
While bathing in the moon's pale light? 
The sea! it is the siren's home, 
Who oft from coral cave doth come. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 359 

With silvery harp, attuucJ to sing 
A lay to make the ocean ring ; 
The glad waves break in surges bright, 
And sea-nymphs dance in -wild delight. 

Look at the pearly summer showers, 

AVhich give new life to with'ring flowers ; 

Look Nature through— earth, sea, and skies — 

And thus the voice of Nature cries : — 

'Twas God, who made the earth so fair, 

And decked it with such beauties rare ; 

His wisdom over all presides, 

His providence for all provides ; 

The meanest worm that creeps the land, 

Protected is by His own hand ; 

The smallest bird that skims along, 

And warbles forth an artless song, 

Hath one to guide its little wing. 

And tune its artless tongue to sing. 



He treads upon the boisterous deep, 

And lulls the raging waves to sleep. 

Upholds creation by His power, 

And on the wings of every hour, 

Sends forth some token of his love ; 

In Him we live, we breathe, we move. 

Should we not then that God obey, 

And seek to do His \n\\ each day ? 

He is to us a father kind, 

To Him be all our powers resigned, 

Love, mind, and strength — all, all be given 

To Him who reigns o'er earth and heaven ! 



THE PHANTOM. 

BT M. n. B. 

'Twas midnight's calm and holy hour ; 
The night wind fanned the tender flowei'. 
And earth in quiet slumber lay. 
Until the blush of dawning day 
Was seen amid morn's roseate hues ; 
When flowers laden with the dews. 
Enamelled mountains, fields, and dales. 
Shed their sweet perfume o'er the vales. 



360 HISTORICAL AND 

Our ravished senses to regale — 
How sweet such fragrance to inhale ! 
■;<■*** -x- 

A youthful one, in slumber deep — 
Her very soul did seem to sleep ; 
She was alone — yet not alone — 
For God beheld her from his throne ; 
He watched her while she gently slept, 
And angels 'round her vigils kept. 
But list! she hears a gentle sound, 
Which echoes through the air around ; 
She opes her eyes, beholds a sight, 
And lo ! it is an angel bright ! 

Behold ! a Spirit clad in white ! 

And robes of heaven's purest light 

Fall gently down in graceful folds ; 

And, in its pure white fingers, holds 

A casket of the finest gold, 

With gems whose worth can ne'er be told. 

And soon a golden key revealed 

The gems wiiich this bright case concealed : 

The Spirit now the casket fair 
Unlocked, and showed her jewels rare; 
She gazed upon them with delight, 
Those costly gems so pure, so bright. 
While radiant smiles lit up her face. 
All full of Nature's charm and grace. 
And then the kindly spirit said. 
Of heaven thou art a favoured maid ; 
These gems, tho' bright, are not so rare, 
As thine own native jewels are. 

•:(- 7:- -X- -X- 

Unwavering and unerring truth. 
Hath e'er attended all thy youth; 
Oh ! may this gem be never sold 
For beds of pearls, nor mines of gold! 
Remember that this gem is worth 
Far more than every gem of earth. 
Yes ! Truth in all its purity. 
Is virtue's best security ; 
This tegis of sincerity. 
From vice can ever keep thee free. 

-A- * * * 

The Spirit closed the case of gold. 
When she her secret thus had told : 



DESCIIIPTIVE SKETCHES. 361 

But midnight's past! 'tis blusliing clay! 
And fields are clad all bright and gay ! 
The maiden now shall see no more 
The Spirit ivhich she saw before ; 
'Twas but a dream! a phantom bright! 
A fancy picture of the night; 
But truth this vision will impart 
To every understanding heart. 



CHAPTER XLVIL 

Poetic Pieces, by A. F. Leonard — Song of the Emigrants— Ode to Solitude 
—Byron Walthall— The Stag Hunter— R. James Keeling — Song to the 
Sea Wave— Old Settlers' Church at Jamestown— W. W. Davis— Lucubrations 
—The Hopes of Love— S. S. Dawes— Tribute to Mr. Clay— An Hour among 
the Flowers. 

The pieces which we shall next present, are from the ready 
pen of Abram F. Leonard, Esq. Possessing a mind naturally 
strong and vigorous, with a liberal share of poetic talent, as well 
as a decided literary predilection, and having enjoyed superior 
advantages in his early mental training, and subsequent intellec- 
tual development and scholastic culture, it is not surprising that 
he should have devoted a portion of his leisure hours to poesy, 
and that he has been a valued contributor to some of the lead- 
ing literary journals of the day. He has written ably on a great 
variety of subjects. The space which we allot to these specimens 
will admit, however, of but the two annexed articles, which, though 
they may be unfair criteria, are nevertheless sufficiently beautiful, 
smooth, and forcible in expression and sentiment, to afford grati- 
fying evidence of the author's prolific fancy and pleasing style of 
composition. 

SONG OF THE EMIGRANTS. 

BY A. F. L. 

[written for a dutch air.] 

Swift flies the bark o'er the bounding sea, 
Columbia's shores are seen on the lee, 
And the emigrant's song is a song of glee, 
To the land of the brave and free ! 



362 HISTORICAL AND 

They stand in a group on the open deck ; 
Nor have they a fear of tempest or wreck, 
Though the distant shore is yet but a speck — 
The land of the brave and free ! 

And these are the notes of the cheerful choir, 
Of the smiling boy, and the manly sire, 
Of the mother's voice, and the maiden's lyre, 
And the lover brave and free : 

" We have left the vales of our native home ; 
Far from our altars and hearth we roam, 
And we sail through the ocean's wreathing foam 
For the land of the brave and free ! 

" 'Twas sad to quit our forefather's land. 
To bid adieu to the sorrowing band ; 
Eut hope waved on its beckoning hand 

Towards the land of the brave and free ! 

" Oh ! long have we tossed on the restless deep ! 
And our watching eyes would often weej^ ; 
But we'd dream in the silent hours of sleep 
Of the land of the brave and free ! 

" Of the land where peace and plenty reign, 
AVhere no despot binds with his iron chain. 
And freedom dwells in each holy fane 

In the land of the brave and free ! 

"Welcome the spot where our wishes lie; 
Bright beams the face of her azure sky ; 
Here will we live, and here we'll die, 

In the land of the brave and free !" 



ODE TO SOLITUDE. 

BY A. F. L. 

Where dwell'st thou. Solitude ? 

Upon the desert waste ? 
Where scorching sands around are spread, 
And not a leaf uplifts its head ; 
Is thine abode there placed ? 
Dost there thou brood. 
In silent mood. 
And scan the bustling world— strange mass of ill and good? 

Or dost thou sit, entranced, 
♦ Upon the lonely main, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 

Gazing into the teeming wave ; 
The traceless and unsculptured grave, 
Where, sought on earth in vain, 
The sailor sleeps 
On pearly heaps ; 
And, far above, the air .Eolian vigil keeps ? 

Or dost thou love to dwell 

Beneath the prairie's slcy ; 
To listen to the zephyr's notes 
As slowly o'er the grass it floats, 
And moves in music by? 
Where thou canst view 
Each varied hue 
That tints the painted flowers, and seems thy glance to woo. 

Or is thy presence found 

Within the hermit's cell ? 
Dost hover o'er his mossy bed. 
And glide where'er his steps are led ? 
Dost, guardian-like, impel 
His thoughts to prayer 
And holy care, 
That may his striving soul for happiness prepare ? 

No ! these are not thy seats. 

Though thou dost sometimes rest 
Upon the lone, unchanging plain, 
Or on "old ocean's" vast domain, 
An unattended guest ; 
Far, far from these 
Thy mansion is ; 
To dark and drearer seats thy pensive spirit flees. 

I gaze upon the stars 

When night, calm, solemn lowers: 
When silence spreads her gloomy wing, 
And casts a shade o'er everything. 
Yet feel not then thy powers ; 
Each twinkling ray 
Bears me away 
In flight of busy thought, far from thy shadowy sway. 

But when within the breast 

There is a painful void, 
Which some dear object gone has left, 
Some enterprise of hope bereft. 

Or long hours unemployed — 



363 



364 HISTORICAL AND 

Then yields the soul 
To thy control ; 
And sadly quaifs the gall of grief's o'erflowing bowl. 

And when from home I rove, 

Amid the bustling crowd, 
Though animation lights each face. 
Though joy inspirits every pace, 
And laughter's voice is loud ; 
I cannot see 
One smile for me ; 
Unknowing and unknown, I am a thrall to thee. 

I do not love thy rule. 

The hart loves not to feel 
The huntsman's shaft impierce his side, 
And deep within his vitals hide 
Its searching, pointed steel ; 
To pine away 
With slow decay, 
In unseen agony, to death a wretched prey. 

Then farewell, Solitude ! 

Thou procreant of woe ! 
I would not have my peace dispelled ; 
Nor more beneath thy sway be held ; 
Gladly I bid thee go ! 
Farewell to pain 
With thy sad reign ; 
With joy I hail my loved Galeta once again! 

The stanzas which next follow, are by the late Byron Walthall, 
of this city, a young gentleman who possessed no moderate 
share of talent as a writer of both prose and poetry. It is be- 
lieved that if his life had been spared, he would have acquired 
an enviable literary fame. His early death was greatly la- 
mented, especially by those who knew his worth, and the readi- 
ness with which he composed pieces that have been extensively 
read and much admired for their strength and force of style, and 
for their correctness and beauty of description. But he has gone, 
we trust, to attune a golden harp to nobler strains above. The 
verses which follow, are not equal in merit to many of his pro- 
ductions, but they present a tolerably good example of his ener- 
getic style. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCUES. 365 



THE STAG HUNTER. 

Bound away, my gray steed, -vrith tlio silver-white mane. 
Like a cloud in the gale, we will fly o'er the plain ; 
Tho' the steeds of luy comrades be fleet as the wind, 
Or the stag that we chase, we will leave them behind. 

There's a wall, which is raised on yon rocky hillside. 
There's a ditch in yon field, it is slimy and wide ; 
But we pause not for these, we have leapt them before. 
And one spring from thy light feet will bear us safe o'er. 

Yonder cliff we must mount, tho' as white as the snow, 
The bones of a charger are there scattered below ; 
'Tis the spot where Guy Lambert was thrown in the chase. 
And 'tis there that they dug him his last resting-place. 

Tho' the bones of that charger look ghastly and white, 
And the pale ghost of Lambert is seen there at night. 
They will not appal us, we'll scale the steep crag. 
And we'll bound from its crest like the strong-footed stag. 

Thy broad breast is heaving, but thou dost not yet tire, 
And thy bright eyes dilating, shoot forth a wild fire. 
While the foam that is cast from thy sides as we pass. 
Falls like snow-flakes around on the dew-covered grass. 

Bound away, bound away, my gray steed, we have thrown 
Every huntsman far out, and we now ride alone ; 
How thy iron-clad hoofs, as they strike the hard ground, 
"Wake the echoes that sleep in the valleys around. 

* * -x- * * * 

I will win his proud antlers, and then I will come. 
As a victor with trophies, to bear to my home : 
But I'll pause in the vale, where the buds are most fair. 
And I'll cull a wild wreath for my love's raven hair. 

The author of the following lines evidently possesses genius as 
a poetic writer. His pieces, generally, give evidence of origina- 
lity, good taste, and excellent descriptive capacity, and they con- 
sequently obtain admission in some of the best conducted peri- 
odicals. 

Southey remarked of the author of the hymn called " Wrest- 
ling Jacob," that he would have been sufficiently celebrated as 
a poet, without the trouble of composing another line, after that 



366 HISTORICAL AND 

production ; and Professor Longfellow said, that those touching 
stanzas, by Duganne, entitled " The Lament of the Widowed 
Inebriate," commencing, 

"I'm thinkiug on thy smile, ^lary, 
Thy bright and trusting smile," 

were enough of themselves to "immortalize any poet." And 
remarks to the same effect have been made by other critics, rela- 
tive to particular productions of certain other writers. Now the 
reader need not suppose that we are very strongly tempted to 
use such terms of praise relative to any pieces introduced here, 
from whatever source they may have come. If they merit simi- 
lar commendation, let it proceed from others. We are willing, 
however, to hazard the opinion, that if the following lines were 
the result of the author's first and only attempt, they would be 
quite sufficient to produce a favourable impression. And the 
same remark will apply to several pieces upon the preceding, 
as well as the following pages. The rhyme in the seventh 
stanza, it will be observed, is faulty and objectionable ; but the 
general sentiment and merit of the lines, nearly, if not quite, 
atone for this defect. The second and the last divisions of the 
piece, especially, contain much of the true spirit of poetry. The 
metaphor of the wave " rousing up the sea-boy to die, while 
dreaming of his cottage home," is certainly very striking, though 
not more so than that of " a shroud of foam gathering on the 
brow" of the breaking wave, soon to be "no more." These lines 
have creditably passed the scrutinizing eye of those whose lite- 
rary taste and judgment are extensively known and acknow- 
ledged. 

SONG TO THE SEA-WAVE. 

BY B. JAMES KEELING, OF KORFOLK. 

Wave of the ocean waste! canst speak to me? 
The -n-inds are sinking to their caverned rest ; 
The day's last beam hath faded o'er the sea, 
And glorious stars are mirrored on its breast ! 
Wave of the deep blue sea, let's talk awhile. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCUES. 367 

We know that thou hcast hcaril the fearful raoau 
Rise upward M'ith the drowning sea-boy's cry ; 
And e'en while dreaming of his cottage home, 
Far, far away beneath a golden sky, 
Thy careless voice hath roused him up to die. 

We know, too, thou hast dashed, in fearful glee. 
O'er the proud argosies that crossed thy way ; 
Hast felt the winds in revel wild and free, 
Sweep round thy form, and curl thee into spray — 
And yet thou wandcrest here, child of the sea. 

But tell us of the ocean dead, thou wave — 
Say, do they sleep in calm and quiet now ? 
Do thy wild brothers hold their restless rave 
Around each form, and o'er each marble brow ? 
Or do they sleep the slumber of the grave ? 

In the dim palaces of ocean's caves, 
Where the sea maiden weaves her coral wreath, 
Are there no sighing winds and moonlit waves ? 
No flashing stars that tremble far beneath, 
Lighting the sea-tomb with a quenchless ray ? 

Methinks thou'rt murmuring now, — Beneath the seas 
There is a scene more beautiful than ours ; 
Whose gorgeous palaces and coral trees. 
Imbedded 'mid rich gems and pearly flowers, 
Smile like the visioned Paradise of God. 

And there, amid that strange and gorgeous home, 
Roam the freed spirits of the ocean dead ; 
Far from the strife of earth, alone, alone ; 
AVith a green canopy around, o'erhead, 
'Mid the wild music of the sea they dwell. 

Stray child of ocean, art thou weary now ? 
Cease thy wild moan, thy life will soon be o'er ; 
A shroud of foam has gathered on thy brow — 
There, thou art breaking on the silent shore — 
Wave of the deep blue sea, thou art no more ! 

The following lines will perhaps be thought, by some readers, 
superior, in several respects, to the above ; though we should 
decide otherwise. 



368 HISTORICAL AND 



LINES 

SUGGESTED BV GAZING UPON IHE RUINS OF THE OLD SETTLERS' CHURCH AT JAMESTOWN, , AND 

DECAYED TOMBS IN THE IMMEDIATE TICINITY. 

BY K. JAMES KEELING. 

Old monument of ages past, lone champion hoar and gray. 
Thy aged walls are falling fast to ruin and decay ; 
A stranger gazes on thee now with eyes bedewed with tears, 
And marks, upon thy aged brow, the work of bygone years. 

Thou standest not as thou hast stood in days long past and gone, 
Ere yet the storms of passing years had swept above thy form ; 
Ere yet the ivy vine had learned to bind thy shattered crest. 
Or swallow-bird to build on thee her frail and lonely nest. 

Long years have rolled above thee since, amid the wildwood glen. 
Thy ancient form was reared, in times that tried the souls of men ; 
And sire, and son, and savage foe, since then have passed away : — 
But thou, though ruined, standest now, majestic in decay. 

And where are now the few who reared thy form in other days, 
And made thy humble aisles to ring with pealing notes of praise ? 
I ask, ye woods and hills around, I ask ye, where are they ? 
And wood and hill give back the sound, "All, all have passed away. 

And thou, old temple of the Cross, art standing all forlorn, 
Here, in thy deathlike solitude, with none thy fall to mourn ; 
The noble James is rolling by, the music of whose surge. 
When blended with the night-bird's cry, must be thy funeral dirge. 

Farewell, old timeworn sentinel, lone watcher of the dead, 
And you, ye blooming wild-flowers, that wave above each head ; 
Farewell ! ye all may live to breast the storms of many a day, 
Yet know "^hat, with the things of earth, ye too must pass away. 



The following stanzas, by William Wallace Davis, Esq., attor- 
ney-at-law, of this city, were taken almost at random from a 
collection of poems of which he is the author. They are suflfi- 
cient, however, to confirm the favourable opinion entertained by 
many, with regard to his contributions to some of the periodicals 
of the day. His poetic attempts embrace a variety of subjects, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 369 

measure, and style ; and the rapidity Avitli Avhich he composes is 
remarkable. 



LUCUBRATIONS. 

BY W. W. D. 

Thoughts of the Past, the happy Past, 

Are crowding on me now ; 
Shadows around by moonlight cast. 

Shadows by Luna's radiance cast, 
Like Stygian spectres hurry past; 

To Somnus' rule I bow. 
The night, the night is waning fast : 

I'm thoughtful, thoughtful, now. 

The hopeful days, the happy days, 

Long past, are present now ; 
On lovely forms once more I gaze, 

On forms beloved I fondly gaze ; 
My lips are moved in silent praise. 

To beauty's shrine I bow ; 
Hope sheds its brightest, lightest rays : 

I'm happy, hopeful, now. 

The vision flies, the vision flies ; 

The real is present now. 
The moon deserts the starry skies, 

Diana leaves the starry skies ; 
Darker, ghastlier shadows rise. 

Dew-damps are on my brow ; 
A hopeless lot before me lies : 

I'm joyless, joyless, now. 

A gleam of day, a gleam of day. 

Paints the horizon now ; 
Night's sable pall must pass away. 

Night to Aurora must give way ; 
But shadows round my heart will stay, 

Clouds rest upon my brow. 
Hope sheds for me no dawning ray : 

I'm cheerless, cheerless, now. 



24 



370 HISTORICAL AND 



THE HOPES OF LOVE. 

BY W. W. D. 

Go, call the stars from the azure zone, 
Call Ocean's treasures all thy own ; 
And if the stars submit to thee, — 
If treasures come forth from the sea, — 
Then, and not till then, believe, 
The hopes of love will not deceive. 

Go, bid the mountain and the hill 
To crumble, and the valley fill ; 
And if no chasms wide are seen 
The frowning monuments between. 
Then, and not till then, believe, 
The hopes of love will not deceive. 

Beneath Niagara place thy bark; 

It's watery wall, its power, mark ; 

And if the ship ascend the fall, 

Or if no power's in that wall. 

Then, and not till then, believe. 
The hopes of love will not deceive. 

Go, bid the river stay its course ; 

Go, bid the tempest stay its force ; 

And if the river heed thy will. 

Or if the tempest thou canst still. 
Then, and not till then, believe, 
The hopes of love will not deceive. 



We shall introduce next in turn, some specimens from the pen 
of another resident of our city, who, though he has for years 
heen a valued contributor to the papers, and has embraced in his 
very creditable poetic efforts many interesting subjects, is only 
known to a very limited extent as a writer for the press. These 
pieces show well enough that he might, with considerable pro- 
priety, have been less modest with regard to his contributions. 
Every one who has literary taste, Avill find occasional inter- 
vals for its indulgence. Often, while attending to the peculiar 
duties of his vocation, the man of business, who has the mind for 



DESCllIPTIVE SKETCHES. 371 

the more exalted pursuits of literature, forms his plans, ar- 
ranges his thoughts, and then embraces the first opportunity to 
retire a while from his merchandise, his books, his customers, 
and his dollars and cents, to commit them to paper. These 
casual and hastj attempts sometimes possess real merit, and 
please more than the studied periods, and careful rhyming, of 
one with less genius, who devotes whole days and nights to ar- 
ranging, altering, and transcribing his empty effusions. 

AN HUMBLE TRIBUTE TO THE "CHAMPION OF THE FREE."* 

BY S. S. DAWES. 

Fell Death a sad and guilty deed has done, 
That fills Columbia's grateful heart with woe, 

For now, alas ! he's doomed her favoured son 
To seek repose, the silent sod below. 

With lightning's bound, the gloomy tidings run, 
And e'en the winds with mournful cadence low, 

Doth seem to murmur as they loiter near, 

" For him that's gone, bestow one tribute tear." 

He loved his country, dearly as his child. 

And ne'er withheld his fond parental aid; 
For oft when dangers raved like whirlwinds wild. 

And dire alarms and strife each heart dismayed — 
'Twas but for him to chide with wisdom mild, 

And, lo ! their restless fury quick was stayed : — 
When Peace for flight prepared and all looked drear. 
None lured like him, the gentle maiden here. 

Illustrious Clay — the good — the wise — the just — 
Through evil and through good report the same — 

Tho' now thy form be nought but mould'ring dust, 
Through time will live thy great immortal name , — 

Secure from ling'ring years' avenging rust, 
A star thou'lt shine on glory's scroll of fame, 

And be remembered as some sage or seer. 

Whose like on earth will ne'er again appear. 



* If we mistake not, the brave sons of Gi-eece and of Bolivia, during their 
late struggle for liberty, awarded to Henry Clay the title which stands at the 
head of these verses. 



372 HISTORICAL AND 



AN HOUR AMONG THE FLOWERS. 



One balmy morn we -wandered forth, with spirits blithe and gay, 
To list each warbling chorister attune his matin lay: — 
To see upon the fragrant mead the rose and lily fair, 
And Flora's congregated hosts that had assembled there. 

The harebell with the violet, in sweet profusion grew, 
And with them bloomed the buttercup, who quaffed his fill of dew. 
In close commune the hollyhock — the hedge-row's gaudy pride — 
Seemed to the poppy whispering love, that languished at his side. 

The sun arose in majesty, and cast his light afar, 

And ev'ry flower that caught a ray held on its leaves a star. 

His dancing beams shone bright upon the winding stream and lawn, 

And kissed the reverend trees which seemed to welcome in the morn. 

The variegated lilac, — the hawthorn, and the yew — 
Each strove to catch his kindly glance, and render homage due : — 
The crocus and the marigold which spangled o'er the glade — 
And, too, the gentle mignonette, its meek obeisance paid. 

Uniting with sweet songs were heard the melody of rills, 

And startled echoes from each grove resounded from the hills. 

Diffusing odours on the air the Zephyrs gently blew. 

And slumbering mists which lingered still with one accord withdrew. 

The browsing lambs were seen to frisk delighted on the green, 
And mazy rings which fairies formed revealed where they had been. 
All prankt in nature's varied hues, the landscape and the sward, 
Unto the yearning eye appeared as if just formed by God. 

Aside we turned, perchance to muse and moralize on man, 
AVhose earthly object seems to be, to form, create, and plan: — 
Tho' fraught with vain ambitious skill, his art can ne'er portray 
The vermeil tints which tinge the rose, nor Heaven's burnished ray. 



DESCIIIPTIVE SKETCHES. 373 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

other Specimens— Original IMSS. — Literary Taste in Norfoll^, &c. — Composi- 
tion by a Lady — Interesting Subject — Beautiful Sketch — Seminole War — 
Burial of the Soldiers — Funeral Solemnities — Beautiful Specimens of Pen- 
manship — The Author — The Burial of the Gallant Dead — Solemn Occasion — 
The Indians, and their "Flowery Home" — Exhumation of the Dead in the 
Wilderness — Procession — The March in the Wilderness — Dade's Massacre — 
Indian Warfare, and their Deadly Hate — The Soldier's melancholy Fate 
— Impressive Funeral Obsequies — Military and Civic Honours — Burial 
Place — Reminiscences — The Soldier's Rest — Prayer of a Presbyterian Mi- 
nister — Eloquent Eulogy of a Catholic Priest — Reinterment and Solemn 
Closing Scene — Music among the Tombs at Midnight. 

Many additional literary specimens could be presented, which 
are creditable alike to the head and the heart ; and we might 
gratify the curiosity, and interest the mind of the reader, by in- 
serting a number of others from the original MSS. at our dis- 
posal. But it is, perhaps, already well enough known, that 
there are in Norfolk, Portsmouth, and vicinity, persons of both 
sexes, possessing a good degree of literary taste, with cultivated, 
penetrating, and well-balanced minds, and ripe judgment ; and 
who, when occasion requires, wield their pens with considerable 
ability. We shall, however, enrich and increase the interest of 
this department of our work, by adding thereto one more selec- 
tion, which is from the pen of a young lady, a native of our city 
(and daughter of a venerable, highly respected, and intelligent 
native citizen), who composed this and many other prose and 
poetic articles of decided merit, while finishing her education at 
Mount Holyoke Seminary, where the facts in the following sketch 
were communicated to her by letter. 

The subject of this beautiful piece of descriptive composition, 
is one of considerable importance. Indeed, it constitutes a 
gloomy chapter in the history of our glorious Union, which will 
be read with melancholy interest, by all who appreciate the 
varied military and political events of the past. The mind of 
the reader — as he peruses this beautiful sketch, containing, as it 



374 HISTOKICALAND 

does, lofty sentiment, touching pathos, and other evidences of 
talent and good taste in the art of composition — will be thrown 
back a few years to the troublesome and vexatious Seminole War, 
and its attending circumstances of peril, hardship, privation, and 
death to many a brave soldier, in the swamps and everglades of 
the "flowery land." But the subject is the burial of the soldiers, 
who had honourably, though prematurely, fallen in that singular 
and perilous contest with the warlike red men of the " sunny 
South." Their withered, mutilated remains were carefully ga- 
thered up, and conveyed to St. Augustine for interment. A long 
row of wagons, heavily laden with the crumbling dead, and drawn 
each by six horses, came forth from the swamps and florid val- 
leys ; and, Avith funeral ceremonies well befitting the solemn oc- 
casion, they were consigned to their last quiet resting-place. 
But we should withhold the description from the reader no 
longer. We must add, however, that the manuscript of the young 
and esteemed author, is remarkable for the neatness and beauty 
of the penmanship. More admirable specimens, in this as well 
as some other respects, have seldom been seen by the writer, 
than those from Avhich this selection is made. But, alas ! she, 
too, is numbered among the dead, the early dead. The fair 
hand that traced these lines lies motionless, cold, and still in the 
damp, dark confines of the grave ; she, too, using her own im- 
pressive words, " is now mute and passive in the stirless slumber 
of death." Her earthly career is ended, her race is run — and 

"What though short thy date? 
Virtue, not rolling suns, the mind matures. 
That life is long -which answers life's great end." 



"THE BURIAL OF THE GALLANT DEAD. 

" It was the morning of the 15th of August, 1842, in the city 
of St. Augustine. The bells of the churches were resounding 
with slow, deep-toned funeral peals, and a solemn silence rested 
on the crowds which thronged the streets. That day was a day 
of solemnities. The six years' conflict with the savages within 
their own borders, was ended. The flowery home the red man 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 375 

loved so ■well, and fought for till his last hiding-place had been 
sought out, he had at last yielded, and turned his steps toward 
the setting sun. And now the dead — the gallant men who had 
gone forth to meet the foe, and had fallen beneath their arrows 
— were being returned to a more honoured burial. The wilder- 
ness had been explored ; and, amid the lone swamps and ever- 
glades, the grassy hillocks, marked by inscriptions in the bark 
of the forest trees which shaded them, had been opened, and the 
dust of those who had been laid there brought forth. 

" The dead had come by sea and land ; on the bosom of the 
placid river, across the sandy plain, and through the tangled 
paths of the wilderness the freight of death had been transmitted 
by the corps of sorrowing comrades. Pilatka, the outpost, on 
the banks of the St. John's, which had heard the last farewell 
note of the bugle as they marched out into the heart of the 
forest, was the rendezvous for their return. Day after day had 
the slow-moving wagons brought in the voiceless dust until all 
who had gone out had been returned — the death-roll w-as com- 
pleted. On this day they were to be committed to the grave 
within the walls of St. Augustine, with the solemnities due to 
brave men. They had gone out with the sound of stirring music 
in their ears, and their country's glory waking up brave purposes 
in their souls, and quelling the gentle rising of affection which 
lingered around the hearth-stones and the scenes they left behind 
them. They went out, too, with flags gaily fluttering in the 
blue air, with burnished arms and tinselled trappings glittering in 
the sunlight, with plumes nodding to the summer breeze ; and 
they had plunged into the forest depths with unfaltering steps. 
But there alas, they had met death in almost every form. Some- 
times as unconscious of danger, they were treading its mazy 
paths, the bullet whizzed in their ears, the dark shades became 
instinct with life, and from behind the trunk of each majestic 
tree, death came and ushered many an immortal spirit into the 
presence of its God. Or when they had halted on their weary 
way at evening, had made their quiet encampment for the night 
beneath the magnolia's shade, while the evening star was looking 
down upon them in its beauty, and gentle breezes brought the 
breath of flowers to their senses ; while the soothing music of the 



376 HISTORICAL AND 

nightingale, the hum of insects, and the slight rustling of forest 
boughs alone fell on their ears and lulled them to quiet sleep ; 
and while cheering visions of home were around them, and per- 
chance the voice of the wife or the welcome of the child was 
whispering in their ear ; then the startling war-whoop aroused 
them to die ; and before each strong arm could grasp its 
ready weapon, the arrow of the savage had reached their 
hearts. And when the morning came, it found those strong 
men that, with the setting sun did bow themselves so proudly in 
the might of strength, mocking at fear and danger, now mute 
and passive, in the stirless slumber of death ; the reeking blood 
from their mutilated brows whence the savages had severed the 
flowing locks, bathing the turf which they had made their last 
pillow.* The cheerful hum of voices which had sounded there 
in the evening's shade was still, and the deep quiet which 
reigned there was undisturbed. The destroyer had left no mark 
behind him ; the crushed blossom or the parted bough gave no 
sign of his retreating footsteps. The golden chain glittered on 
the manly breast, and the low tick of the watch amid the still- 
ness of death, told that deadly hate, such as the red man only 
can cherish, had done the deed.f Thus had they met their fate; 
and for days perhaps, the scorching sun shone on them in its 
unpitying glare ; and the dews of evening fell on their mangled 
forms, until at last from a distant post a band of comrades had 
found them, and opened for them a hasty grave, and committed 
them in sorrow to earth's cold bosom. And at the posts in the 
wilderness, some fell under diseases engendered by the burning 
suns and humid swamps. Or perchance, when death overtook 
them, they were directing their steps across the deceitful ever- 
glades with their thoughts on the trembling earth beneath their 
feet, and knew not that the wily light-footed savage was around 
their path, singling out his prey. And when their steps grew 
weary, the sure bullet, or no less certain arrow, did its work. 
The death-mists settled over their eyes, and the weary ones sunk 
down to repose, which should remain unbroken. 

* ;i: * * * 

* Dade's massacre. 

f The wily foe did not disturb the watches and other personal eflfects of 
those whom they slew. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 377 

" And now, on tins bright morning, they were returning whence 
they had gone out. And there were waving plumes and glitter- 
ing armour, and music too. But, ah, how diflferent the notes 
which hailed their return ! The wailing bugle, the muillcd drum, 
and the shrill fife, blended in mournful cadence the solemn dead 
march ; while the slow-tolling bells of the cathedrals struck sadly 
on the still summer air. The crowd that thronged the streets 
looked on in deep and solemn silence. Mournful and imposing, 
indeed, wa-s that great funeral train. The long array of soldiers, 
the escort of the dead, moved on with slow and measured step ; 
their arms reversed, in keeping with the plaintive wailing of those 
mournful strains. Sorrow marked their brows, as if thought 
dwelt wearily on their fallen comrades. Then came that long 
train of Avagons, laden with the dead, covered with flags, — our 
country's stars and stripes, — which had come down from the blue 
air to enfold the victims of her strife. A poor reward this, for 
the light of life, and the hope of immortal spirits. 

" The scene, to those who looked beyond the pomp of gaudy 
trappings, and steeled their reason against the influence of sense, 
spoke of death and eternity. But there were those on whom 
worldly associations had power, whose souls were steeped in the 
magic charms of glory; who regarded more the glistening of 
worldly honour than the pure glory of celestial things. But to 
every heart it spoke. The soldiers moved Avith restrained step ; 
the pall-bearers, — men of noble mien, clad in military uniform, 
— passed along with measured tread, and downcast eyes. They 
had held companionship Avith the fallen in the flush of life. 
Thought dwelt sadly on their fate. The men of God, too, Avere 
there. The Catholic priest, Avith floAving robe and the holy cross 
on his breast, — perchance he murmured the mass that should be 
said for the souls of the departed. The erect form of the simply- 
clad and devoted pastor of the Presbyterians Avas there. Epis- 
copalians, too, men of prayer and faith, who, in soul, contrasted 
the peace-giving doctrines of the gospel with man's strife-breath- 
ing policy. 

"They moved through the city, and passing doAvn to the 
banks of the river, they halted where the dead were to find their 
last resting-place. It Avas a pleasant place for the soldier to 



378 HISTORICAL AND 

sleep. The bending cypress waved over the bed of many a fallen 
comrade ; and the blossoming turf, and touching inscription on 
the marble that rose over them, showed that stranger hands and 
hearts had not performed these last kind deeds. On the right 
Avas an orange grove, and here the morning sunbeams sparkled 
on the green foliage, with their perfume-breathing blossoms and 
golden fruit, in all their dew-bathed freshness. Just beyond 
were the barracks, the military home of our country's sons. 
This spot, now occupied by the barracks, is linked with many a 
romantic legend of the days when the Spaniards held possession 
of the walls of the city. A convent once marked the place ; the 
vesper-bell had once chimed out over these sweet waters at even- 
ing ; and the fresh breezes had kissed the pale brow of the 
devoted nun. Within its dark and damp dungeons, the impious 
heretic had dragged out the days of a wretched life, consigned 
there by judges, whose council-place is the secrecy of barred 
doors, and midnight darkness ; and whose decisions fiends have 
whispered in their ears. The fame of this sacred spot reached 
across the waters ; and a thrilling story is told of a com- 
pany of nuns who left the walls of their convent, in the 
pleasant island of Minorca, to provide a residence here. The 
voyage was readily accomplished, and the ship had approached 
near the borders of Sandy Isle. The perfumed breath of the 
soft air had reached the senses of the wearied ones as they 
came on deck, and looked forth on these walls, where they were 
to find a home. The tolling bell came on the silence of the 
evening air, bringing hallowed associations of their island-home 
in the Mediterranean. The morning came, and saw that ship, 
instead of being safely moored in the harbour, fixed in the hidden 
sand-bank ; her masts bending abjectly to the waves, which swept 
mercilessly over her. The midnight hour had heard the last 
wail of those pure-hearted, though misguided creatures. But 
the old convent, like all things earthly, had numbered its days ; 
and these barracks upreared themselves in its place, — a home 
for the defenders of the soil. And gallant men now walked in 
these fragrant shades, and breathed in the refreshing breezes 
that came from the leaping sea ; while at evening, instead of the 
vesper-bell, the martial bugle and life-stirring drum resounded in 



DESCllIPTIVE SKETCHES. '379 

those quiet shades. And where the sombre dress of the veiled- 
face nun alone met the eye, were the gay uniforms ; and the 
star-spangled banner floated over the roof in place of the stern, 
naked cross. 

"Where, then, would the soldier love so well to sleep, when felled 
by death, afar from his childhood's home, as by the side of that 
orange grove where he had so often wandered ; where the familiar 
notes of the bugle and drum should come on the evening air ; and 
the stone which marked his grave should awaken daily remem- 
brance in the heart of his comrade. For too often the soldier 
thinks little of his other rest than that which earth can afford. 
He cares little how or when he meets his end, so that dishonour 
rests not on his name, and he finds an honoured burial. 

The long procession entered the burial-place, and wound along 
the smooth path, among the stony monuments and simple slabs, 
which told that the green turf they marked covered brave hearts. 
Touching and pleasant was the evidence of those deep and strong 
ties which unite hearts that know not the stronger bonds of 
Christian love. No changing friendship was that which bound 
those manly hearts ; but enduring as the bands of honour, and 
sweet to the eyes of friends from distant homes was the sight of 
that smooth turf, and these blossoming shrubs and waving trees. 
Many a time had the funeral train entered this quiet spot, and 
often had the peal of musketry resounded amid the shades ; but 
never had it witnessed a scene like this. 

" They halted beneath a grove of cypress, where the martial 
host, after their last march, were to rest. Three pyramidal 
monuments, on the polished marble of which the chisel's touch 
seemed fresh, pointed out the deep, dark vaults which were to 
receive the dust. Those heavy boxes, enveloped in their banner- 
palls, were removed, and placed reverentially on the green turf 
beside the vault. Near them was the little band of kindred, 
who had gathered from distant portions of the Union to witness 
the interment of their loved and lamented ones. By the dead 
were the pall-bearers, with their brows uncovered. On one side 
was the dense phalanx of the military ; on the other clustered 
the great multitude which St. Augustine and the land around 
had poured out. 



380 HISTOKICAL AND 

" As the eye rested on that great tlirong, thought dwelt on 
the resurrection morn, when, at the trumpet's sound, the dead 
shall spring to life, thick peopling earth's surface. 

" The notes of bugle and drum had ceased ; and there was 
deep stillness, such as could better be felt than described. Then 
the Presbyterian minister advanced, and lifted up his hands to 
pray. The dead, a great company, were at his feet ; around 
was breathing life ; and his voice went out clear and distinct in 
the solemn silence. The slight waving of the boughs — God's 
breath alone — mingled Avith man's in that moment. He prayed 
for the living, that man might learn a lesson of his own mortality ; 
that he might remember that, like the breathing harp, his voice 
should sink in silence ; that, as the summer leaf, so his glory 
should fade. He prayed for the mourners, that were near, and 
those afar in their desolate homes, whose eyes should never fall on 
these withered forms at his feet, whose ears were never again to 
be greeted by their familiar household voices. He prayed for 
the land ; that the clarion of war might no more sound within 
her borders ; that the dove of peace might rest on her banner. 
He prayed for the dark Indian, who had gone to the setting sun ; 
that the gentle influences of the Gospel, in its harmonizing power, 
might come to his savage heart. He prayed for that fair land, 
the red man's former home, that it might become the heritage of 
a people who should delight to know God. He prayed that, as 
a people, we might be humbled in the dust for our sins ; that love 
to our neighbour might unite the hearts of this people together 
for ever. 

" Then a Catholic priest, a man of eagle eye, and with a 
tongue of stirring eloquence, pronounced the eulogy of the gal- 
lant dead. He told how, in all ages, the fire of patriotism had 
glowed in noble hearts ; how the sacred shrine of liberty had 
been honoured by offerings of earth's noblest sons ; how the 
mountain's side and the depths of the valleys had drunk their 
blood in every region of this wide earth. He told how, in that 
dark mountain-gorge of Thessaly, the devoted few of the strength 
of Greece had dared death ; he told how the Romans, with un- 
quailing eye, had met the hosts which, like clouds on the wing 
of the tempest, came down upon them ; and he told how the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 381 

standard of liberty liad been reared in our fair land by our 
fathers' undying bravery. And, pointing to the ashes of the un- 
buried dead, he said, the immortal spirits had now fled from 
earth ; he told how these men had gone out and met the savage, 
and had given up their lives ; and how nations brought destruction 
on themselves ; how their graspings were quelled by the hand of 
destruction ; and well might ho have pointed at the difference 
between the policy of men Avho defended their dearest rights 
of liberty, and that which is to gain, let it cost what it 
may. But his full tones were subdued to a gentle strain, as he 
spoke of their last groan in the wilderness, — of death unseen by 
pitying eye. The burial service was then read by him who had 
often with them committed their comrades to the grave; and 
those touching words never sounded more solemn : — ' Dust to 
dust, and ashes to ashes !' Their full voices had often responded ; 
but there they were — dust! 

" Again the voice of the Presbyterian minister was heard in 
solemn prayer, committing that great multitude to the God of 
the living. The last ' Amen ' Avas spoken ; and then did the 
dark earth receive her dead out of sight. They had made their 
last remove. When the last one had been quietly deposited, the 
roll of death was called ; one name after another was spoken, 
but no response came up from the voiceless dust. They had all 
resigned their posts ; they were free. No more, at morning or 
evening, should they answer to their names. Then the last act 
only remained. The volley of musketry was discharged. The 
smoke-wreaths curled up slowly among the boughs, and the last 
echoes of the solemn peal died slowly in the distance ; but it 
could awaken no thrill in the hearts of the sleepers. They can 
hear no sound, till the peal of the last trump shall awaken the 
myriads in earth's bosom. 

* * :;-- * # 

" It was midnight. Unbroken stillness reigned in that burial- 
place. The multitude that a few hours since had thronged its 
portals, had all passed away. The moonbeams fell softly be- 
neath the still dewy scene. The holy stars looked gently down 
on that hallowed spot. No leaf whispered. But low, sweet, un- 
earthly strains of melody suddenly sounded out around the vaults 



382 HISTORICAL AND 

on the soft air ; then rose to a wild, thrilling strain, and died 
away in plaintive harmony. Like the voice of angel-harps, it 
rapt the soul, raising it high above this world. It was the sol- 
dier's last, long farewell. They were ' left alone in their 
glory.' "* 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

Conductors of the Press in the City — The Editor's Task a Difficult One — Re- 
sponsibility and Usefulness — Editorial Character — Editors of the Daily 
Papers of Norfolk and Portsmouth — Francis H. Smith — Captain Thomas H. 
Williamson — The Different Professions — Ex-Governor Tazewell — Form and 
Motion — Countenance — Ilis Mind — Oratory — Astonishing Power of His Elo- 
quence — His Manner — Indifference to Forensic Fame — His Political Princi- 
ples — Compared with Pinkney — Pinkney's Violent Style — His Mind — Exalted 
Talents of these Two Distinguished Men — Mr. Tazewell at the Present Day 
— Intellectual Faculties Unimpaired — General Information, and Readiness 
to Communicate — Intellectual Superiority — -Able Original Papers — Varied 
Intelligence. 

We have already taken occasion to allude, severally, to the 
conductors of the press in our city ; some further remarks, how- 
ever, in a general way, may not be inappropriate here. We, 
therefore, venture the assertion, without any inclination to in- 
dulge in blandishment or fulsome adulation, that the average 
ability of the respected gentlemen, who hold an editorial relation 
to the several papers of this city and Portsmouth, will compare 
favourably with that of the same number in other cities. How 
much soever we may be disposed to particularize, it would, per- 
haps, be somewhat imprudent to do so. Place each member of 
the editorial corps here, under like circumstances ; give to all 
the same facilities, the same experience, and then a particular 
and separate description might be attempted Avith some certainty 
of justness and correctness. An editor has a most difficult and 

* One of the United States bands of music that accompanied the procession 
repaired to the vaults at midnight, and played a number of solemn and melan- 
choly airs around the remains of the dead, as a last sad tribute to departed 
friends and fellow-soldiers. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 383 

responsible task to fill. An able, impartial, and consistent con- 
ductor of a public journal, may Avell and fairly assert his claims 
to the respect of all parties and every class ; for such a one is, 
indeed, a great advantage to society at large, and a greater 
blessing, especially, to the community in which his paper circu- 
lates, than he is always supposed or allowed to be. 

"An editor," said one capable of judging, "should be per- 
fectly independent of all cliques, factions, and influences, poli- 
tical and ecclesiastical. He should have moral courage to speak 
the truth, at all times and under all circumstances." As to the 
question, How near the editors and publishers of the daily papers 
of Norfolk and of Portsmouth approach this high standard, we 
shall leave it with an intelligent and impartial public to answer. 

We may appropriately mention, in this part of our work, 
Francis H. Smith, A.M., the able Superintendent and, also, 
Professor of Mathematics of the Virginia Military Institute ; late 
Professor of Mathematics in Hampden Sidney College, and for- 
merly Assistant Professor in the U. S. Military Academy at 
West Point ; author of the American Statistical Arithmetic, &c., 
was born and reared in Norfolk. 

Captain Thomas H. Williamson, a mathematician and a pro- 
fessor of distinguished ability, also, at the above Institute, is a 
native of this city ; and we could mention the names of others of 
acknowledged merit, but we pass on. 

It is quite Avell known that there are residing in the city, in 
Portsmouth and vicinity, gentlemen of ability in the different 
professions — some of long-established reputation, and others 
whose career of eminence has but recently commenced. No 
special reference may be expected from our pen, and to particu- 
larize mifrht be invidious. But there is here a distinguished, 
venerable man, to whom a definite and somewhat extended allu- 
sion may be reasonably expected — one of the renowned sons of 
old Virginia, who, in days that have passed, attracted and en- 
chained the attention of thousands by his eloquence — the powers 
of whose mind were splendidly exhibited at the bar of justice, 
and whose voice has often resounded in the national halls. Sx- 
Grovernor Littleton W. Tazeivell is, of course, the eminent indi- 
vidual to whom we refer. 



384 HISTORICAL AND 

" Whoever regards his tall, spare form, and the unusual, yet 
dignified, motion of his limbs, his expressive countenance, his 
elevated forehead partially shaded by light grayish hair, curling 
negligently down his neck, his eyebrows (when he is speaking) 
arched, as if the blue eyes beneath Avere gazing at a distant 
prospect, his cheeks furrowed by long-continued and abstract 
meditation, his lips remarkably thin and Avell-formed— whoever 
reo-ards his entire countenance — placid, yet firm ; agreeable, yet 
not jovial — will intuitively conclude that he is a man of no ordi- 
nary cast. 

;;; ^: * * * * * 

"What is the principal feature in the mind of Mr. Tazewell? 
I answer, argument — strong, convincing, overwhelming argu- 
ment. He selects his premises with exquisite ingenuity, and 
with such honest caution, that the hearer is so gradually and 
imperceptibly seduced, as almost to decide against the concurrent 
testimony of experience. When speaking, a smile occasionally 
lightens his countenance, which, while it pleases the audience, is 
the unerring death-sign of the argument of his opponent. 

" He is, figuratively, a monarch in the empire of mind. Fancy, 
with her beauteous train, is the neatly-attired handmaid, not the 
ruling mistress of his intellect. Her power is secondary ; reason 
in its pride is the ascendant. When he enters the lists in the defence 
of truth, the specious guises of error are torn aside, each secret 
subterfuge is exploded, and truth appears in fascinating colours. 
His ingenuity, however, in making ' the worse appear the better 
reason,' is indeed wonderful. In one moment, he can, by the 
strength of his genius, raise a diminutive molehill into a towering 
mountain, and, in another, reduce it to its original nothingness, 
as occasion may require. But there is no arrogant supremacy 
in his manner; no unfair garbling of another's argument in his 
reasonings ; no insulting superiority in his triumph. He is mild 
and persuasive ; he concedes the fullest force to the arguments 
of his opponents ; and he then proves, with a coolness which no 
provocation can aifect, and with a dexterity peculiar to himself, 
that, in the present case, they have no power whatever ; and 
when fortune has smiled upon him, when the laurels of victory 
are thick around him, he dashes them from his brow with an in- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 385 

difference, equalled only by the zeal with which other aspirants 
after forensic fame would collect and preserve them. 

* :^; * * * * * 

" His whole political life has shown a strong and untiring zeal 
in defence of State Rights. He regards the General Govern- 
ment as the creature^ and not the sovereign ci-eator of the States; 
and believes that its efficacy is injured, whenever it transcends 
the limits expressed. He has uniformly opposed the commercial 
restrictive system ; and, in the colonial question, denied the in- 
fallibility of the ruling passion of the President, and firmly ad- 
vised him to meet the act of the British Parliament by a corre- 
sponding one of our own. 

;Jc ;|c ^c >^ y^ yf- JjC 

" It has been fashionable, ever since the days of Plutarch, to 
draw parallels of those who have excelled in the sphere of ac- 
tion. The names of Pinkney and Tazewell have been often en- 
rolled together. The manner of Pinkney was fierce and violent. 
He often threw himself into the wildest tempest of feeling — the 
sweat rolling from his brow, and passion burning on his cheek — 
but it was the undisguised action of his art, not the divine im- 
pulse of the soul. The manner of Tazewell is natural, easy, and 
dignified ; kindling in warmth, and rising into action, with a 
judgment true to nature. The mind of Pinkney sometimes ap- 
peared darkened, by the mass of embellishments with which the 
fecundity of his genius supplied him, and whose false glare fre- 
quently seduced him from the strict path of logical accuracy. 
The ornaments Avith which Tazewell occasionally decorates his 
orations, are woven into their general texture ; not hung in 
separate clusters about the web. The mind of the former often 
resembles the mid-day firmament, when partially obscured by 
bright and beautiful clouds ; the mind of the latter is more like 
the clear, cloudless azure of the upper sky. In reasoning, both 
excelled in a comprehensive and irresistible grasp of intellect, 
and in that mathematical precision, with which the minutest and 
most remote ramifications of an argument are traced to their 
legitimate source. Both were frequently engaged in the inves- 
tigation of subjects which demanded the severest exercise of 
human genius, and each showed himself equal to the occasion. 

25 



886 HISTORICAL AND 

Let the public voice, the surest arbiter of eloquence, decide 
whose triumph has been more glorious, more complete." 

The above is an extract of a description of Governor Tazewell, 
which was written twenty-five years ago, when he rejoiced in 
the full strength of his mental and physical powers. His 
dignified form trembles now with the weight of years, but his 
intellectual faculties appear to have suffered but little from 
the effects of age. His opinion is now (1853), as formerly, 
sought and obtained on important and intricate subjects, not 
only by legal gentlemen of his own City and State, but from 
abroad. His information on a great variety of subjects is most 
surprising. He converses as freely, familiarly, and with as much 
apparent interest upon the various scientific, mercantile, and me- 
chanical avocations, as upon a complicated law case, or some 
grave question in political economy. 

We have embraced opportunities to consult this eminent 
man with regard to several subjects connected with the history 
and commercial interests of Norfolk ; and on which we had 
sought in vain to obtain satisfactory information elsewhere. We 
shall not soon forget our surprise at the readiness, minuteness, 
and promptness, with which the required information was com- 
municated, nor the pleasure we felt on account of the urbanity of 
manner, the pleasing, though dignified politeness, which he ex- 
hibited during the short interviews. We went prepared to pro- 
pound several queries, respecting entirely different subjects, 
and widely different and distant occasions. His answers were 
all given in a full, clear, remarkably distinct, and definite style ; 
there was no mere supposition, no half-conceived ideas — the cir- 
cumstances in all their various bearings, direct and indirect, 
were perfectly well recollected and understood. His mind is, as 
it were, a great storehouse of the political and historical events 
of the past ; an immense and well-filled intellectual repository, 
whence intelligence, varied, rich, and valuable, may be drawn at 
pleasure, or as occasion may require. In the course of his re- 
marks, he casually alluded to some original articles that appeared 
in the columns of the Norfolk Herald more than twenty-five 
years ago, on subjects then deeply interesting, and on which the 
public mind was greatly agitated. They are doubtless among 



DESCIIIPTIVE SKETCHES. 387 

the ablest communications of the kind that ever appeared in that 
or any other paper, being remarkable for strength of argument, 
profound reasoning, and the evidences of extensive political know- 
ledge. He was the author, and " Senex" (if we mistake not), is 
the anonymous signature over which he chose at the time to ex- 
press his sentiments, and give the public his comments and ex- 
planations — clear, just, and satisfactory as they were to many, 
and perfectly true, as time proved them to be, upon matters which 
had puzzled other great statesmen on both sides of the Atlantic. 

" The lineaments of his mind are no less striking than the fea- 
tures of his face. If a stranger should happen to hear him 
descanting on commercial topics, he would naturally conclude 
that his whole life had been devoted to mercantile pursuits. He 
is an evident illustration of the maxim of Horace, that a wise man 
is of all trades and professions ; '"homo sapiens est sutorJ' " 

John N. Tazewell, Esq., Governor Tazewell's only surviving 
son, is a gentleman of talent, of varied and extensive literary 
acquisitions, with a knowledge of political matters inferior to 
but few if any, in this section. 



CHAPTER L. 

General R. B. Taylor— Eloquence and Success as a Jurist — Extraordinary 
Powers of Oratory— Graphic Description by a Norfolk Writer — Address to 
Lafayette at Yorktown— Choice of Virginia — Deportment, Manners, Elo- 
quence, and Military Feeling— Graces of Oratory— Effect upon a Jury- 
Passion — His Excursions in the Regions of the Beautiful — Indefatigable and 
Studious Devotion to his Professions— Example— Productions of his Pen— 
Politics— Chosen to Command the Troops at Norfolk— A Credit to Old Vir- 
ginia — Diligent Improvement of Talent — Relatives. 

The reader has doubtless heard much of the late Judge Robert 
B. Taylor, of Norfolk, or, as he was more familiarly called, Gene- 
ral Taylor. As a polished gentleman and a soldier, and more 
especially as an orator, he was very favourably and extensively 



388 HISTORICAL AND 

known. Very much has been said of his extraordinary eloquence 
and success as a jurist and counsellor at law. Allusion has 
already been made to the part he took in military matters here 
during the last war with Great Britain ; and the date of his 
death is recorded on a preceding page. Much might be said 
of the singular and astonishing effect of his efforts as an advo- 
cate at the bar in Norfolk borough, the town of Portsmouth, 
Princess Anne and other neighbouring counties, in behalf of the 
unfortunate and often guilty prisoner, and of the influence ex- 
erted by his speeches upon his audience ; of his enviable power 
to sway his hearers at will, judge, jury, and all ; to convulse them 
with laughter, or to make them shed copious tears of commisera- 
tion for the accused ; to thrill the heart with joy or horror, and 
anon to fasten the conviction of innocence irresistibly upon the 
minds of the jury, notwithstanding the most energetic efforts of his 
opponent, and the strongest evidences of guilt. The following ex- 
tracts are from a description of this distinguished individual, writ- 
ten when he was in the full strength of joyous manhood, by one 
who was competent to judge impartially of his merits, as well as 
to present them in a clear and graphic style.* 

" General Taylor is about the middle size, slightly inclined to 
corpulency. His countenance is lighted up with the liveliest 
and most expressive blue eyes, which reflect the high and chival- 
rous impulses of the soul within. His head is on the ancient 
Roman model ; and according to Gall, indicative of great powers 
of eloquence. Nor are these indications false. If the guardian 
genius of Columbia had selected from the scroll on which the 
names of her brightest sons are recorded, some favourite cham- 
pion to address the veteran apostle of Liberty on the mouldering 
battlements of Yorktown, I do not think that I exceed mode- 
ration in affirming that the choice of Virginia would have been 
confirmed. t His elegant deportment, fascinating manners, and, 
withal, those brilliant powers of eloquence, heightened by high- 

* H. B. Grigsby, Esq. 

■}• General T. was cbosen as the orator on the occasion of the great festival 
at Yorktown, in honour of Lafayette, during his visit to this country. " Gene- 
rations may roll away, and empires be erased ; old Time himself may become 
gray ; and the bright sun be shorn of his glory, ere he again look down on such 
a festival." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCEES. 389 

toned military feeling, eminently qualified him for performing 
the ceremony with corresponding eclat. 

"I have mentioned that he possessed the light graces of ora- 
tory; the alarming start, the ominous look, the significant gesture 
— all are his ; but all these are the mere ministers of eloquence, 
that stirring inspiration, which, as it were, from heaven, bids them 
whither and when to move, with resistless magic and overwhelm- 
ing energy. That his eloquence has often robed the forms of 
sordid guilt in the rich attire of innocence and beauty, and then 
bade the tear of commiseration flow over imaginary wrongs ; 
that it has almost swayed some of his audience secretly to indulge 
the wish that the knife of the assassin, arraigned at the bar, were 
plunged into the bosom of those who would be so cruel as to con- 
demn him ; and that it has anon aroused the undulating wave of 
the multitude, — there are those of his townsmen who bear eager 
testimony. 

5l: ***** * 

" Most orators are rendered eloquent by passion ; and, rising 
in the majesty of genius, march gloriously on. Not so the Ge- 
neral. While the passion prevails, his mind appears like a dread- 
ful volcano, vomiting its streams of sulphurous lava in every di- 
rection, and which, when the eruption ceases, continues evolving 
dense columns of smoke, — and finally, all is still. 

* * * * * * * 

" To listen to the General, in some parts of his speech, is de- 
lightful. When his course is unrufiled by passion, his excursions 
into the regions of the beautiful are numerous and striking. 
******* 
"As a lawyer, he is indefatigable. Rising early and retiring 
late, his whole time is incessantly devoted to his profession ; he 
leaves no document unexamined, no stone unturned, not the most 
trivial precaution neglected, nor the slightest advantage disre- 
garded, in order to advance the interest of his clients. Few men 
are more assiduous, none more successful in their profession ; 
herein aifording an eloquent lesson to the young lawyers in Vir- 
ginia." 

With regard to the productions of his pen, the same observant 



390 HISTORICAL AND 

writer remarks, in allusion to a report wliicli he composed, as 
Chairman of the Committee of Schools and Colleges, during a 
session of the Virginia Legislature, of which he was a member, 
that it " may vie in elegance of illustration and purity of diction, 
with any state paper which has for a long time emanated from 
a legislative assembly." 

" Belonging to the old Federal party," says Mr. Pleasants, in 
his Sketches of the Virginia Convention of 1829, " he had been 
warmly, and upon principle, opposed to the war of 1812. Yet 
no sooner Avas the die cast than his opposition ceased at once. 
From that moment he only thought of the mode in which he 
could render his country the greatest amount of service. He 
had been chosen to command the troops at Norfolk, and during 
the whole of his service in that capacity, he manifested the zeal, 
the intelligence, and the activity that distinguish the able com- 
mander. 

***** ^: ^ 

" We can say that he was, in every respect, a noble specimen 
of old Virginia. In person, in manner, and in intellect, he would 
have been an honour to her in her brightest and palmiest days. 
In honour, in courage, and in humanity, he was a credit, not 
only to her, but to the human species. Alas ! that so few are 
left like the men of that golden period of Virginia's greatness." 

It must appear quite evident from some of the preceding ob- 
servations upon General T., that it was not the mere possession 
of splendid talents that rendered him a great man ; not because 
nature had lavished her choicest gifts upon this favourite child of 
hers (she has many similarly favoured beneficiaries of her liberal 
hand) ; but it was the diligent inaprovement of them, and the 
effort to do ivcll, Avhatever duty he undertook, whether as an 
orator or a writer, a statesman, a soldier, or a counsellor-at-law. 

The esteemed widow, and two highly respected and intelligent 
sons of the General, Robert E. and William E., are residents of 
Norfolk. Robert E. Taylor, Esq., is a talented lawyer and an 
eloquent speaker, and has ably represented the City in the State 
Legislature. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 391 



CHAPTER LI. 

Henry A. Wise, of Accomac— Interest in the Welfare of Norfolk— Efforts 
in Behalf of Internal Improvement Schemes— Intellect— Native Genius- 
Rhetorical Eiforts— Style— Power of his Eloquence— Independence— Change 
of Opinions— Description by an Opponent in Politics— His Voice— Generosity 
—Social Excellence— His Person— Countenance— Extract from the Southern 
Literary Messenger— Graphic Description— Style of Speaking— Gestures, 
&c.— Speech in the Virginia Convention— Convincing Power— John C. Wise, 
of Princess Anne County— Political Character of the City— AVhigs and Demo- 
crats—Party Strife and Excitement— Peaceable and Forbearing Character 
of the Citizens. 

Hon. Henp.y A. Wise, though not a resident of Norfolk, or its 
immediate vicinity, may, with propriety, be alluded to in these 
sketches. His name has been mentioned on some of the preced- 
ing pages ; as he has manifested a commendable interest in the 
commercial prosperity and general welfare of the seaport of his 
native state. His powerful voice has been heard, and the effect 
of his eloquent appeals has been felt in behalf of those important 
schemes of improvement, which, if carried out, some of them at 
least must result in great benefit to Norfolk. 

He is so well and extensively known, that any account of him 
here is almost unnecessary. Let some partial description, how- 
ever, be left upon these pages, of another distinguished son of the 
Old Dominion ; a man, strong and vigorous in intellect, often 
splendid in his rhetorical efforts, and possessing genius, which " has 
the power of lighting its own fires." His style of oratory is exceed- 
ingly energetic. He is frequently fiery and impetuous, though 
often very deliberate ; yet always at once engaging and enchain- 
in o- the attention of his hearers, who are now thrilled with the 
force of his reasoning, the aptness of his illustrations, the variety 
of his gestures, the clearness and fulness of his enunciation ; and 
anon, they are made to weep by his impressive appeals, or well- 
nigh convulsed with laughter, by his ready wit, or his extraordi- 
nary facetiousness in relating an anecdote. 

Many extracts could be presented, to convey to those unac- 
quainted with him an idea of his peculiarities as a statesman, 



392 HISTORICAL AND 

an orator, and a barrister. The following remarks concerning 
him may be appropriately quoted : 

" Henry A. Wise, of Virginia, is one of the most original and 
independent thinking politicians in the Union. From early 
boyhood he has always been remarkable for his fearless and 
courageous self-dependence. No party shackles ever hold him, 
no ancient usages or prejudices could ever influence his opinions 
and judgment. It is true he is a progressive and honest man, 
and must, therefore, frequently have reason to change his 
opinions ; but this he does in an open, honest, frank way, which 
shows that it is the result of conviction." 

" He is," observes another Avriter, "one of the most nervous 
and impassioned men in the world, with a voice that rings out, 
in moments of excitement, like a trumpet call to battle, and a 
face which blazes in every lineament with fervid feeling. With 
Mr. Wise, as a politician, we have no sympathy. As a man, he 
has our profound respect. We have heard from the best autho- 
rity, anecdotes illustrating the unbounded generosity and self- 
sacrifice of his nature, such as would read gloriously in a ro- 
mance, except that they might appear too improbable even for 
fiction. We have no acquaintance with him, not the slightest, 
and have never seen him but once, but have reason to believe 
that, in the scale of social excellence, he has no superior." 

But, as it has been truly said, he must be heard to be pro- 
perly understood and appreciated, and he must be heard, too, 
when prepared and fully interested in his subject. 

Mr: Wise is rather above the medium stature, thin in person, 
and of slender frame. His countenance is very expressive, and 
strongly marked, indicating great intellectual power ; his mouth 
very large, and his blue eyes glare out fiercely from their 
sockets ; sometimes, when excited in speaking, they assume an 
expression of vindictive ferocity. " His face is full of flexibility, 
and, by the easy play of its muscles, expresses every emotion 
and passion of the mind. In fact, the whole face speaks, in 
every muscle and fibre of it." 

As he passes along the street, often with the quick, active 
step of the man of business, he is readily recognised as a person 
of no ordinary cast ; but his general appearance is certainly not 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 393 

such as to produce a correct impression on the mind of a stranger, 
with regard to his abilities as an orator, or a writer, or of his 
peculiar social qualities. 

There is, in the eighteenth volume of that invaluable and most 
ably conducted periodical, the Southern Literary Messenger, 
strict, unsparing, and well-written descriptions of some of the 
talented men of Virginia, and who were members of the State 
Convention of 1851. Among the rest, the name of Wise promi- 
nently appears. As the reader may refer to the number for 
June of that year, we shall present only a few brief extracts : 

" Face, figure, feature, gesture, flexibility of muscle, limb, 
voice, and intellect," says the writer, "were called into full play; 
earnestness of manner, keenness of wit, biting sarcasm, denunci- 
ation, unsparing ridicule, anecdote, positive assertion, his own 
past history and his future hopes, whatever was known and what- 
ever was conjectured, as bearing upon the subject, were all 
brought out, and flung, wild-cat fashion, in the contest. His 
style of speaking is a chronic passion ; it is always at the height 
of expression, that voice, feature, and gesture can give. In his 
impassioned moments, when the force of his words is thus per- 
fectly aided by voice and manner, his arms flung aloft in every 
variety of unnatural gesture, his face twisting, his voice almost 
a scream, and his eye glaring with excitement, — at these times 
his words seem like bullets, dashed and flung with frantic vehe- 
mence in the face of his opponents ; he speaks concentrated 
bitterness, — bitter in language, sense, expression, and action. 

^ ^ :{: ;^ic * * * 

" The eff'ect of his speech on the Basis Question was strikingly 
evident ; and if the true test of an orator is his power to con- 
vince a mixed audience of the truth of his opinions, and to carry 
with him their attention and their opinions, then Henry A. Wise 
is one of the most eloquent men in Virginia." 

He has a brother, John C. Wise, Esq., of Princess Anne 
County, who, though not as polished a speaker, is evidently a 
man of lofty spirit, uncommon talent, and excellent judgment. 

This chapter will conclude with some remarks relative to the 
political character of Norfolk, &c. ; and we may state, in the first 



394 HISTORICAL AND 

place, that there are in our community but few politicians, 
or, perhaps, we should say political aspirants, certainly not 
many vainly ambitious ones ; although it is admitted that there 
is a respectable share of legislative intelligence and sagacity. 
An observable trait in the character of the most prominent 
men here of both parties, is a modest, quiet demeanour. But 
Avhen they are called by their fellow-citizens to act their part 
in the" political arena, they generally acquit themselves with 
becoming ability and efficiency. The political sentiments of the 
majority of the voters of Norfolk have long been in accordance 
with the principles of the Whig party, and, consequently, there 
have been, for many years, with one or two exceptions. Whig 
representatives in the State Legislature. At the last Presiden- 
tial election, however, there was a Democratic majority of 
twenty-four. And there was, accordingly, great rejoicing on 
account of the apparent political change in the city ; and, proba- 
bly, there was sufficient reason for the innocent exultation on the 
joyful occasion. But candour requires us to state that a large 
number of Whigs did not vote. Whether the same may be said 
of the members of the other party or not, we are not quite pre- 
pared to say. A^ery certain it is, hoAvever, that there was a 
greater effort made by the Democrats, to swell the number of 
voters, than by the Whigs. The most casual observer could not 
fail to notice that there was extraordinary and effective vigilance 
in the Democratic ranks in obtaining votes. The Democratic 
party has the ascendancy in Portsmouth, and in the Con- 
gressional district. 

There is not much of the bickering and strife of mere party ; 
views and principles are firmly maintained ; but the clamorous 
noise, and rabid denunciations of political factions have never 
prevailed in Norfolk to an extraordinary extent. It is admitted, 
however, that there has been quite enough of bitter newspaper 
controversy ; and on some special occasions, considerable excite- 
ment and a fair show of spirit and animation in political assem- 
blages and processions. Martial music, spirited songs, and 
enthusiastic cheers, sometimes enliven the occasion, and ring out 
loud and strong on the evening breeze. But the "sovereigns" 
always disperse quietly, and depart peacefully, appearing quite 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 395 

"willing that each one should enjoy the fullest liberty to express 
and entertain his favourite opinions and views. On occasions of 
excitement, reason generally reigns and holds its sway, in oppo- 
sition to discord and confusion ; and a patient submission, a quiet 
forbearance, have often been observed here, even when demon- 
strations of violence and bloodshed were seriously apprehended. 



CHAPTER LIL 

Native Genius — J. H. Whitehurst, of Norfolk, the Virginia Daguerreotypist — 
Extensive Business — Pictures — Energy of Cliaracter — Opinions of Others 
— Morteotype — Sketch of His Parentage, Talents, Progress, &c. — His Pic- 
tures at the Fairs of the Maryland Institute — Premium — His Pictures at the 
World's Fair — His Mind — Inventive Capacity, &c. — Alexander Gait, Jr., of 
this City, the Virginia Sculptor — Descriptive Letter from Florence — Tri- 
umphs of American Artists — Powers — Gait — Greek Beauty— Correspondence 
— Bust of Psyche — Bust of Virginia — Promise of the Young Artist — The 
Bust received in Norfolk — Splendid Specimen — Extract from the Piichmond 
Whig — Evidences of Genius in Boyhood — First Effort — Enquirer — Tribute of 
T. C. Tabb, Esq.— Particulars of Gait's Genius — Works, &c. — Other Ta- 
lented Individuals. 

We record with peculiar pleasure that this immediate section 
of Virginia has produced its due proportion of individuals pos- 
sessing extraordinary native genius as artists; and whose energy 
of character, close application, and unyielding perseverance in 
their profession, have already gained for them very considerable 
distinction, and will ultimately cause their names to be enrolled 
among those of the masters of the age. 

Jesse H. Whitehurst, the celebrated Daguerreotypist, enjoys 
an enviable reputation, and merits a special notice here. He 
ranks at the head of the list of artists in his profession ; and 
his celebrity and popularity have already secured for him an 
extensive and lucrative business, in several of the principal 
cities of the Union. His pictures are very remarkable for 
their exquisite finish, surpassing accuracy, and striking resem- 



396 niSTOKicAL and 

blance to life. The finest and most delicate touches, — the work 
of a master hand, — are singularly manifest in all his likenesses. 

His life has, thus far, exhibited one of those instances of 
energy and persevering effort, and consequent success, which it 
is pleasing to contemplate — an interesting example of that 
spirited devotion to the chosen sphere of action, which marked 
the career of some of those worthy men of science whose names 
have "descended along down the track of time," never to be ef- 
faced from the historic page ; and the remembrance of whose 
works will pass on, and on, from age to age. 

There is much that could be appropriately said here of Mr. 
W. as an artist ; nor can the foregoing remarks be thought too 
highly coloured, inasmuch as observant, scrutinizing, impartial 
men, of other sections of the country, have spoken concerning 
him in terms not less strong. 

" Morteotype is a new and beautiful application of Daguerreo- 
type, and is destined to create quite a sensation among the 
living, if not among the dead. The idea is chaste and novel — 
the dead are made to live in form, feature, and expression — the 
tomb-stone gives to the breathing world more than the mere 
name of the departed — more than can be told by the poet or ex- 
pressed by the sculptor ; a semblance of the mouldering dust that 
sleeps beneath, when the ghastly remnant of humanity was 
clothed in flesh, and 'the young blood ran riot in the veins.' 
The stranger, wandering through our cemeteries, will no longer 
dwell upon the epitaph of the silent sleeper — but contemplate 
the features of the one, who once breathed and had volition like 
himself. The young and lovely will seem to defy the consuming 
finger of decay, and smile as they were wont in the days of life. 
The parent can again look upon the features of his beloved child, 
and forget that it reposes in the silent embraces of the tomb ; 
while the lover can contemplate the features that longest won his 
heart, and say, ' such was she — but what is she now ?' ' Morteo- 
type' is a recent invention of Mr. J. H. Whitehurst, a gentle- 
man who has devoted a great portion of his life to improvements 
in the art of Daguerreotyping ; a young man of extraordinary 
genius and enterpi-ise. It is the embedding of the sun-created 
likeness into the stone, and making it impervious to the ravages 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 397 

of time by the use of the peculiar kind of cement, which makes 
the picture as durable as marble itself. 

" If we have been informed aright, Jesse H. Wbitehurst is the 
son of Captain Charles Whitehurst, one of the gallant heroes of 
Craney Island, and was born in Princess Anne County, Virgi- 
nia. He is still young, of prepossessing appearance, and urbane 
manners. At an early age, he evinced great mechanical and 
artistical talent, coupled with enterprise and ambition. In 1843, 
the art of Daguerreotyping might have been considered in its 
infancy ; he had foresight enough to see that there was a wide 
field opened before him. He accordingly visited New York — 
gleaned what information he could, and, through books and 
study, obtained knowledge enough of the art to commence for 
himself — which he did successfully in Charleston, S. C. In the 
fall of 1843, he opened a gallery in Norfolk, and such was his 
success that, with his usual ' go-ahead-ativeness,' in January of 
1844, he established his celebrated gallery in Richmond. Good 
fortune still smiled upon his exertions ; and such was his triumph 
over all competition, that he successively opened his branch es- 
tablishments in Lynchburg, Petersburg, Baltimore, and New 
York. In 1844, he discovered the rotatory background, an im- 
provement which gives an airy, life-like appearance to the pic- 
ture. In 1845, he constructed the first perfect skylight in Rich- 
mond ; this improvement diffuses pleasant and equal light over 
the countenance of the sitter, and consequently greatly improves 
the picture. In 1846, he applied galvanism to Daguerreotypes, 
and by a series of successful experiments proved its utility, when 
all others failed in its application. To give the reader some 
idea of the amount of business done by this enterprising young 
artist, something over 60,000 pictures were sent out from 
his establishment during the six years that transpired after he 
first commenced business, giving employment to twenty-three 
assistants. 

" He seldom, if ever, gives dissatisfaction, and never allows a 
defective picture to leave his gallery. This is the main secret 
of great success ; for every one being pleased, recommendations 
must come from every quarter. His success in Baltimore has 
been unprecedented — benefitting him, while, at the same time, it 



398 HISTORICAL AND 

throws business into the hands of his competitors, who are nume- 
rous, and some of them extremely skilful. The high finish and 
rich tones of his pictures, have put everybody in mind of having 
their likeness taken ; and this newly-created desire does not con- 
fine the patronage of the public to him alone, but distributes it 
amono; those who have real merit." 

At one of the fairs of the Maryland Institute, held in Balti- 
more, he was awarded the first premium for the superiority of 
his pictures. 

" The English journals, particularly the ' Illustrated London 
News,' were enthusiastic in their praise of Whitehurst's daguer- 
reotype views of Niagara Falls, exhibited in the Crystal Palace. 
These views are perfect gems of art, and conveyed a more correct 
idea of this great natural wonder of the world than our trans- 
atlantic friends have ever had before." 

The mind of Whitehurst is one of rare and varied inventive 
capacity ; and it would be difiicult to conjecture in what direc- 
tion his genius may hereafter tend, or what further results may 
be developed by his skill in his favourite art. 

Alexander Gait, Jr., of this city, is a young gentleman whose 
genius, combined Avith a persevering, studious, and unwavering 
devotion to his difficult profession, has already placed him pro- 
minently before the country, as an artist of great merit and 
extraordinary attainments. The following letter from Florence 
shows the favourable auspices under which he is prosecuting his 
studies : 

"I reverence Art, wherever found, as the longing after a 
better principle ; but above all, do I look with pride upon any of 
its triumphs which belong to America. After lingering in amaze- 
ment over the glorious achievements of a Raphael or an Angelo, 
a Canova or Thorwaldsen, it was indeed a gratification to find 
the genius of our own land so zealously striving to follow in the 
way thus marshalled. It was, therefore, with peculiar pleasure 
that I wandered through the studio of Hiram Powers, and gazed 
upon those marbles, alive, as it were, from his magic chisel. 
But it is not of him that I would here speak ; to swell his fame 
— of whom the great Thorwaldsen declared, in his astonishment, 
that, in his fort of busts, there were none superior to him, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 399 

ancient or modern — would be to paint the lily, or perfume the 
rose. There are younger men, with promise even as great, but 
■who 'bide the turn of Fortune's wheeh' Many such crossed my 
path, whom I would love to mention, and, if it miglit be, bring a 
thrill of joy to their lone hearts ; but occasion and power both 
would fail me. I must, however, record the name of one of 
Virginia's most talented children, who, in a future not far dis- 
tant, will 'link it to a glorious fame.' Need I recall to you 
young Alexander Gait ? He has been at Florence for the past 
three years, ardently pursuing his noble art. It was my pleasure 
to make his acquaintance ; and I could but admire, from the 
very first, the manly modesty which pervaded his whole manner. 
Upon an invitation to visit him, I repaired to his studio in Via 
Babuino, and passed a delightful hour with the artist and his 
work. He has boldly entered on that great course which Powers 
has so triumphantly run, and, if I may judge from the specimens 
shown, he is destined to rank even beside that famed master. I 
may be permitted, however, before noticing particularly his mor- 
ceau, to premise that no part of the human figure is more difficult 
of conception and execution than the one in question. The 
human countenance, with all its infinite flexibility of feature and 
ever-varying shade of expression, presents an obstacle apparently 
insurmountable. Add to this the vision he must form in his mind 
of the ideal, so trying a test of his sense of the beauties, without 
which all Art is dead and inanimate, and you have some faint 
notion of the extent of his task. In this it was that Powers con- 
tended so successfully with the Italian School. Their leading 
thought was developed in the general outlines, while those deli- 
cate traces of the mind, which more often lurk in the smallest 
line or curve of the face, were left untouched, or committed to 
chance. The effect, I need not tell you, was flat and insipid. 
But when a young American presented himgelf in the Galleries 
of Florence, and showed them a head so superbly finished that 
vitality itself seemed to glow in its ^ features, the palm was 
yielded at once to the stranger. 

" It is in this path, then, that young Gait has made his debut, 
and shown himself capable of the highest researches of Sculp- 
ture. As I looked upon that bust, redolent as it was with the 



400 HISTORICAL AND 

mildest Greek beauty, it gradually grew upon me, till the appre- 
ciation was perfect. Then did I see how youth, sustained only 
by 'the promised joys of life's unmeasured way,' could pour out 
for months its Avhole resources of genius upon this scanty block 
of marble. The sweetly-knotted hair, the straight and finely- 
moulded nose and exquisite curve of the short upper lip, so dis- 
tinctive of the Greek, — the eloquent mouth, the eyes upturned in 
rapture, the gentle arch of the brow, and the lovely oval of the 
face, — all announced the true poetry of Sculpture. This is all 
chiselled with the rarest nicety, and yet nowhere is there visible 
the smallest hardness or stiffness. And this 'jewelled crown of 
the body' is set on its basis as lightly and becomingly as grace 
itself. The swelling bend of the neck, and the rich contour of 
the shoulders, would do honour to the fairest ideal of a Niobe." 

A correspondent of the National Intelligencer, writing from 
Florence, says : 

"His bust of 'Virginia' is much admired; but his 'Psyche' 
exhibits a decided improvement, and will add greatly to his 
reputation. There is a pensive sweetness in the expression, a 
quiet gracefulness in the position, and a true appreciation of the 
best artistical standard of the Beautiful in the profile and general 
outline, which cannot fail to win for this work the approbation of 
every lover of Art. Young as the artist is, he has already made 
himself known as one of Virginia's most promising sons ; and I 
venture to predict that, with the experience and advantages of 
study afi'orded by a few years' residence in Florence, he will be 
welcomed by the citizens of his native State, as one of whose 
reputation they may well be proud, and whose kindness of heart 
and unpretending manners are equal to his talents." 

This bust was received and exhibited in Norfolk. It came 
fully up to the high expectations of the artist's friends. It is 
indeed a splendid specimen of Art, beautiful to behold — charming 
to look upon. Norfolk may justly be proud of a son giving such 
rich promise of future eminence. 

A writer in the Richmond Wbig speaks as follows of this pro- 
duction and the artist : 

" I have just returned from a visit to Gait's ' Psyche,' now on 
exhibition at the room of the Historical Society in the Athenaeum. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 401 

" To say that I was pleased would but faintly express my feel- 
ings. I was more than gratified ; I was charmed ; and the more 
closely and earnestly I studied it, the more powerfully were the 
magic touches of the chisel exhibited. One by one, beauties 
before unseen became developed, till at last the wonderful whole 
burst upon me, and I felt that here indeed is a master-piece of 
Art, here truly is the embodiment of soul. 

" The works of man are never perfect ; but, claiming to pos- 
sess some taste in matters of this kind, I say with truth, I have 
never seen a piece of statuary to surpass it. The faultless fea- 
tures, the heavenly expression, the folds of the drapery, that in- 
imitable little ear, itself a study for an hour, have established, 
beyond cavil, the reputation of the artist. 

" But who is Mr. Gait ? This question will not be asked 
twelve months hence. Mr. Gait is a Virginia boy, born in 
Norfolk. From earliest boyhood he exhibited remarkable talent 
for sculpture. Amongst the miscellaneous collection usually 
found in a schoolboy's pocket, is a piece of chalk, for chalking 
his taw. This was the capital stock on which young Gait com- 
menced business. His penknife was his -graver; and many a 
pretty little figure did he rough-hew out of this coarse material. 
His next effort was in alabaster. Here genius began to develope 
itself, till, finally, he aspired to the more elevated art of cutting 
cameos from the conch-shell ; and many a fair bosom amongst 
his particular friends is at this time decked with the efforts of 
his youthful labour. Four years ago, he went to Italy, where 
he is now enthusiastically pursuing his profession. His first 
effort in marble was a bust of 'Virginia,' which was purchased 
by the Art Union in New York, and is now on exhibition there, 
and greatly admired. 

" ' Psyche ' is the second piece, and belongs to a company of 
gentlemen in Norfolk. He is now engaged on a Bacchante and 
a Columbus, for gentlemen of Philadelphia and Virginia. His 
Bacchante was exhibited at the late annual meeting of the 
Society of Arts in Florence, and Hart and others proclaimed it 
the best piece at the exhibition." 

"It is," says the Richmond Inquirer, "one of the most exquisite 
pieces of sculpture we have ever seen. The features — very much 

26 



402 HISTORICAL AND 

like those of one of our city belles — are most delicately chiselled, 
and beautiful, the neck and shoulders perfectly rounded off, the 
drapery elegant and skilful. Indeed, there is about the bust a 
beauty, sweetness, and repose, charming to the gaze of every 
observer. As Virginians, we feel proud of this great triumph 
in Art of a young native and citizen of our State." 

The following beautiful, appropriate, and well-deserved tribute 
was paid, in November, 1852, to the talents of Mr. Gait, by T. 
C. Tabb, Esq., of this city, during the session of the Legisla- 
ture. 

A motion had been made by Mr. Tabb to take up and con- 
sider the bill authorizing the erection of a statue to Thomas 
Jefferson, at the University of Virginia. 

He said : "Mr. President, — my object in asking the attention 
of senators for a few moments, is to bring to their notice and 
consideration a highly-gifted son of Virginia, as the artist of 
the work proposed by this bill. 

"Alexander Gait has been abroad for several years past, dili- 
gently prosecuting an artistical education. He has given abun- 
dant and unmistakeable evidence of poetic genius and masterly 
talent, in the lofty and sublime art to which he has devoted his 
life. 

" He was born in the city of Norfolk, and his family are 
among the most elevated and esteemed of the inhabitants of that 
place. He gave very early indications of remarkable genius ; 
and such was the moral purity, the attractive modesty, and un- 
obtrusiveness, which distinguished his character and deportment 
at this period of his life, that he enjoyed, in a singular degree, 
the confidence and esteem of the community in which he lived. 

" While yet a mere boy, his extraordinary genius was displayed 
in such faithful representations of the human form, and other 
objects, in the simplest material, and with the simplest instru- 
ments, as to excite the surprise and admiration of all around him. 
With no model for imitation, no master to guide his youthful 
efforts, he discovered an artistic skill and executed with a deli- 
cacy of finish which favourably compared with the works of 
masters. 

" It was soon manifest that young Gait was a genius, — born, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 403 

not made ; and liis father took early measures to afford liim the 
opportunity of prosecuting his noble studies in the classic fields 
of Italy. 

"During his residence in Florence — now four or five years — he 
has sufficiently distinguished himself to satisfy the expectations 
of his friends, and has secured the confidence of those who know 
him best, that, like the eagle, he only wants an atmosphere to 
fly in ; that, upon a work of magnitude and of the greatest 
importance, he would make the brightest exhibition of high 
genius, and classic taste and skill. 

"At a recent public exhibition of works of Art in the city of 
Florence, — the usual exhibition, I believe, perhaps the regular 
annual one, — the palm of excellence and superior merit was ac- 
corded to a Bacchante and a Columbus, both from the chisel of 
Gait ; — a compliment that artists alone know how to value, and 
are willing to strain their genius to deserve. 

" Several of his works have been sent to this country, and 
have been greatly admired. One of his studies, now in this 
city, has attracted much attention from connoisseurs and ama- 
teurs, and is pronounced a work of great artistic excellence and 
poetic beauty. As the artist of the statue of Jefferson; there is 
no doubt he will furnish to Virginia a chef-d' ceuvre of his divine 
art, and win for himself undying fame. 

" I move, sir, that the name occurring in the second line of 
the bill be stricken out, and the name of Alexander Gait be in- 
serted in its stead." 

Mr. Saunders seconded the proposition, and bore testimony to 
Mr. Gait's desert as a man, and accomplishments as an artist. 

The amendment was unanimously agreed to, and the bill 
ordered to be engrossed. 

There are other ingenious, talented, and meritorious individuals 
in our city and vicinage, to whom it would be appropriate and 
gratifying to allude here. But our rapidly-accumulating pages 
now admonish us of the necessity of hastening on to the con- 
sideration of other subjects claiming our attention. 



404 HISTORICAL AND 



CHAPTER LIIL 

Why Norfolk has not Advanced more Rapidly — Internal Communication — 
Sending to the North — Home Manufactures — Direct Trade — Importers — Le- 
gislation — Supineness — Prospects Improving — Signs of the Times — New 
Sources of Wealth and Enterprise — A Sleeping Giant — The Old Common- 
wealth Arising — Energy — Lethargy — Commercial Position — Climate, &c. — 
California Gold, &c. — Mexicans and Indians — Eastern Splendour — Conse- 
quences of Inactivity — Norfolk Improving — Buildings — Streets— Banking 
Capital — Authorities — Citizens — Public Buildings. 

Although several pages have been appropriated to the con- 
sideration of the commercial resources and prospects of Norfolk, 
the reader's attention will again be directed to some additional 
reasons why the place has not advanced more steadily, and in- 
creased more rapidly in wealth, population, and mercantile im- 
portance. The want of suitable lines of communication with the 
interior has already been alluded to. The practice of sending 
to the North for almost every description of goods, is highly 
objectionable, and sadly injurious. Nor can it be avoided under 
existing circumstances. We are compelled, from necessity now, 
to get our supplies from the North. And surely our northern 
brethren deserve great credit for their energy and perseverance. 
We want more of their indomitable spirit of enterprise and in- 
dustry here. But it is strange, indeed, that at this advanced 
period in the history of our State, and of the Union, capitalists 
have not long since established extensive manufactories here. 
With regard to direct trade, the reader's attention has already 
been called to that subject. Norfolk, for a considerable time, 
enjoyed a high and enviable reputation in this respect. But 
things have sadly changed. Our merchants possess the means, 
the facilities, and the knowledge requisite to prosecute an exten- 
sive direct trade communication Avith the cities of Europe, &c. 
But now, instead of importing foreign commodities by direct 
lines, they are procured in great quantities from other ports 
of the United States, notwithstanding the necessary charges 
for extra commissions, double insurance, and for additional 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 405 

loss in breakage, leakage, &c., &c. Of course it is known 
that there are here some importing merchants ; but there should 
be many. Here, we have the water deep and wide enough, — the 
money, and the men of mercantile experience. 

x\nother period of prosperity appears, however, to have dawned. 
The minds of the people seem, at last, to be directed to the im- 
portance of this subject. But a cloud still obscures our commer- 
cial prospects. This town, with its unequalled harbour, has 
contended long with legislative neglect, and with the apathy 
and supineness of its own citizens. This cloud, it is believed, 
will soon be dispelled by the rising sun of prosperity. The 
morning will ere long dawn, and light up this part of the 
Southern horizon. Some of the old and knowing prognosti- 
cators cautiously, but confidently, foretell a long day of bright- 
ness and success. 

" New sources of wealth and enterprise are of daily develop- 
ment, and the old charge of Virginia indolence is fast passing 
away. A giant may sleep, and a giant may awake, and, seeing 
desolation and decay around, by shaking off his lethargy may 
become a greater giant than ever." 

And in view of the protracted supineness of this section in 
some respects, it may be admitted that a great giant has indeed 
slept long and profoundly ; but it is encouraging, at length, to 
behold him, as it were, huge, gigantic, and powerful, slowly 
though certainly rising, shaking off the heavy chains of drowsi- 
ness, buckling on the armour burnished and bright, and preparing 
to enter the arena and engage in the great contest for commer- 
cial renown. Let it now be known far and near, that this vene- 
rable old Commonwealth will slumber on no longer, amid the 
noise and bustle of the onward march of others to greatness ; the 
rise and progress of cities and states, and in the glaring light of 
science and art, with their astounding developments and results. 

All real and permanent advancement in the prosperity of a 
town, is the legitimate offspring of energy of character, and an 
active spirit of enterprise, sustained by wise and judicious legis- 
lative assistance : these are the great prolific parents of success 
in every important undertaking, and of all great accomplish- 
ments. While there are, and have long been, some very striking 



406 HISTORICAL AND 

and creditable exceptions, to the old charge of supineness and a 
lack of energy here, it cannot be denied that there has, for many 
years, been a very great want of that indomitable and uncom- 
promising spirit of enterprise, which has invented plans, formed 
schemes, and wrought wonders elsewhere. A favourable com- 
mercial position, internal communication, good climate, rich 
lands, &c., are not the only requisites to insure the prosperity 
of a place. Men may starve, if they will, amid the rich and in- 
viting fruit groves of the Indies. Of what avail to the sluggish 
Mexican was the incalculable abundance of gold, embedded in 
the soil, sparkling on the hills, gilding the solid rocks, and scat- 
tered profusely upon the glittering surface of California ? The 
spirited sons of our glorious Union went and dug, hoed, and 
scraped up the shining dust, tumbled over the rocks, undermined 
those old sun-baked hills, gathered up and washed out clean the 
innumerable particles, chiselled the rugged and towering cliffs, 
and hooked out the solid metal, fused by deep, internal fires, and 
belched forth from the bowels of the earth. And still there are 
numbers hurrying on towards the inviting regions of gold ; while 
the tardy Mexican curses his supineness, and retires, and the 
careless and ill-fated Indian strides proudly off to his mountain 
fastnesses to hunt his deer, or descends the deep ravines to 
spear his fish, satiate his appetite, smoke his calumet, and sleep 
the greater part of his half-thinking life away, as his unfortunate 
race has been wont to do, for long centuries that have run their 
course. 

And among those of the old Eastern marts too, who, for a 
time, lolled in the lap of luxury, and rolled along in Oriental 
splendour, some there were who lived but to enjoy the treasures 
that flowed, from the rich districts of country, down the rapid 
rivers, whose banks were lined with plenty. But, for lack of 
energy, their rich commerce was attracted to other cities, the 
arts and sciences were neglected : and then their walls were bat- 
tered down ; the old towers tottered and fell ; the gates of brass 
were broken ; the wild-grass grew in the streets and market- 
places ; buildings of surpassing strength and beauty decayed, and 
fell; 

" Round broken columns, clasping ivy twined ; 
O'er heaps of ruin stalked the stately hind ;" 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 407 

and, " at the midnight hour, the owl's long cry still adds to the 
deep solitude." 

But with regard to Norfolk, it is pleasing to record that she 
is endeavouring to redeem herself from the charge of supineness 
and lethargy. The old spell is passing oif, and many of her 
people have grown weary of the consequences of delay, slow 
movement, and dull inactivity. Alluding to our local improve- 
ments, said one, who recently took a look at the city, and the 
indications of an entire change in the old state of affairs : 

" We know of no town which presents signs of steadier im- 
provement and progress than Norfolk. Whichever way the eye 
is turned, the evidences of prosperity are visible. New and re- 
novated buildings, improved streets, and the bustle of business, 
all indicate a healthy state of things. There is not a section of 
the city where we do not find buildings in course of erection. The 
facilities of banking capital and exchange, which she offers to 
the merchant and planter, must draw to her market, through 
the new channels now being opened, the products of the country ; 
which trade, will build her up into a commercial emporium. The 
spirit which now animates her public authorities and population, 
is adding new impetus to her progress ; and if, in connexion with 
these facilities, her citizens will invest their capital in the various 
branches of manufactures, her advancement will be rapid and 
commensurate with the investment." 

"Entire new and beautiful streets," says another, "have taken 
the place of old marshy lanes and alleys. New and capacious 
buildings have gone up, where, some years ago, were nothing but 
old shanties and ruins. Among these may be noted a splendid 
Mechanics' Hall, a superb new City Hall, several large churches, 
&c. In fact, the place wears a new aspect, and seems to have 
been thoroughly renovated." 



408 HISTORICAL AND 



CHAPTER LIV. 

Home IManufactures — Northern Establishments — The South — Boots and Shoes 
— Massachusetts — Farmington, N. H. — Manufacturing Company— Georgia 
and South Carolina — Money Sent to the North — Stoves, Brooms, Hay, Fruit, 
&c. — Jlortifying Facts — Clothing — Indigent Females — Flour and Meal — 
Mills — Baltimore, &c. — Profitable Investment — Cotton Goods, Candles, Soap, 
Paper, &c. — Steam Power — Handsome Sites— Extensive Mills, Manufacto- 
ries, and their Concomitants— New England — Agriculture, Manufactures, 
and Commerce — Plovigh, Loom, and Anvil — Fruit — Hungry Consumers — 
Milk, Butter, &c. — Cause of New England Thriftiness, Wealth, and Happi- 
ness — Enterprise Wanted Here — Norfolk — Progress Elsewhere — Improve- 
ments — Great Works — Railroads — Steamers — Cities in the West — Prosperity 
of the South — Commerce, Shipping, and Products. 

We have now some further and more special remarks to offer, 
relative to the interesting and important subject of home manu- 
factures. The people of the South, as stated on a preceding 
page, get their supplies of manufactured goods mostly from 
Northern establishments. Immense quantities of shoes, hats, 
carriages, wooden ware, candles, soap, starch, paper, meal, flour, 
loaf sugar, brooms, leather, cabinet furniture, farming imple- 
ments, &c., &c., are imported from the North and East ; all 
of which could be manufactured as good and as cheap at the 
South.* But to the North goes the money, in copious streams, as 
it were, to enrich the already overgrown Northern capitalists, 
and to increase in splendour and beauty the cities of the Eastern 
and Middle States. The amount of boots and shoes alone, ma- 
nufactured in some of those States, to supply the southern and 
western demand, is really immense, and still increasing, as the 
following statement, from authentic sources, Avill plainly show : 

No later than 1840, the quantity manufactured in the State 
of Massachusetts alone, amounted to $15,000,000 ; in 1847, it 
was $17,000,000 ; and in 1849, it reached the heavy amount of 
$18,000,000 ! ! and it has, no doubt, rapidly increased since that 
time. " These are pegged, and ' the first man who pegged a 

* There are in this city several carriage and furniture manufactories, which 
furnish work equal, if not superior, to that of the large establishments of the 
North and East. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 409 

shoe in this or any other country,' Joseph Walker, of Ilopkin- 
ton, Massachusetts, is, we believe, yet alive. The demand for 
these articles exceeds the supply. Frauds are committed in sub- 
stituting wood or shingles for leather, in the construction of cheap 
shoes for the New York market ; and in some parts of the shoe, [ 
untanned leather is often used. The quarters of kip brogans, as 
they are called, are sometimes lined with common straw paper, 
concealed beneath white sheepskin morocco. 

"A method of manufacturing boots and shoes, by what is 
called teams, or a division of labour, has been introduced by 
Charles D. Bigelow, of Massachusetts, which dispenses with pre- 
vious training, and makes the workman expert in his particular 
department in a day or two. 

" For one year, it was estimated that the whole number ma- 
nufactured in the town of Farmington, N. H. (to say nothing of 
Lynn, Mass.), exceeded 425,000, valued at $300,000. The 
amount paid for labour, freight, and trucking, was near $90,000. i 
The boxes alone cost $3,000, and required 210,000 feet of 
boards to make them. There are now six large manufactories, 
besides some larger ones, all together capable of turning out 
600,000 per annum, should the wants of the trade require and 
the prospects warrant it." 

Why could not a company for the manufacture of these ar- 
ticles be organized here ? If properly managed, it would cerr 
tainly pay a handsome dividend. It would require a capital of i 
say $50,000, in shares of $25 or $50 each ; with a contingent 
fund of four or five thousand dollars, for the expenses of machi- 
nery, stock, &c. 

This business, as will be seen by the following extract from a 
southern paper, has already been commenced in South Carolina 
and Georgia : 

"Among the different branches of domestic industry daily 
springing up at the South, there is none that it gives us more 
pleasure to notice than that of manufacturing our own leather 
and shoes. In Georgia and South Carolina, there are several , 
small factories established for manufacturing brogans, &c. ; and 
we are pleased to learn, from those engaged in the business, that 
the demand for their productions is on the increase. The day is 
not far distant when the Southern States will not only be able to 



410 HISTORICAL AND 

supply their own wants with cotton goods and shoes, but a hun- 
dred other articles, for which we have heretofore been dependent 
on our Northern brethren," 

"Let us make a calculation," says a Norfolk writer, "of the 
sums sent each year from Norfolk to the North. For dry goods, 
clothing, fancy articles, jewelry, &c., say from $500,000 to 
$1,000,000. We probably send the same amount for boots and 
shoes, hats, saddlery, hardware, furniture, stationery, chinaware, 
&c., and upwards of $1,000,000 more for groceries, and many 
other articles, including freight and insurance. Now, of all this 
large sum, the profits of full four-fifths inure to the benefit of the 
North, and one-fifth only remains with us. Let us suppose that, 
for the last twenty-five years, we had retained amongst ourselves, 
of this sum, an additional $500,000 each year, which a moderate 
degree of industry and enterprise might have readily done, our 
city and the surrounding country would have had, at the present 
time, an addition of millions added to its resources. 

"Every year we send away our $100,000 for the simple arti- 
cles of butter and hay ; and is it not a mortification to see, every 
few days, the latter article, for the most part the product of the 
sterile and rocky State of Maine, conveyed to the surrounding 
country for the use of our farmers, when equally as good, to my 
knowledge, can be raised here with very little labour?" 

" Consider these things," says a writer in the Richmond 
Times; "'Just received, another lot of those celebrated Troy 
Cooking-Stoves.' A heading like the above is not strange to 
your columns. Does anybody know how many thousand dollars 
are yearly sent North, from Virginia, for that one article ? 
Have not we as good water-power, as good iron and coal, as 
they have at the North, or as skilful mechanics ? 

" ' Just received, two hundred dozen Corn Brooms from the 
North.' 

" It is an ascertained fact that half a million dollars is yearly 
paid for brooms imported into Virginia. Are not the James 
River bottoms as good for raising broom-corn as the Connec- 
ticut ? Won't somebody plant a few acres next spring ? The 
crop is said to be worth from fifty to one hundred dollars per acre. 

" 'Just received, one hundred bales Northern Hay.' 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 411 

" Is it a fact that Virginia cannot raise hay to feed her own 
stock? I have seen, even this dry season, at least three tons 
per acre, on land that, a very few years since, was worth no more 
than — in fact, as poor a piece of land as could be found in the 
State. What crop pays better, at from fifteen to twenty dollars 
per ton ? 

" 'Just received, fifty barrels fine Northern Apples.' 
" How many thousands are paid annually for fruit, even in 
Richmond ? The world may be challenged to produce a finer , 
climate, for fruit of any kind, congenial to the climate, than Old 
Virginia. So it may be said of potatoes, and hundreds of other 
articles. The above article is not intended as any reproach on our 
Northern brethren ; all praise, on the contrary ; and I should be 
very glad to see them among us and — fill it out yourself" 

These extracts convey some mortifying facts, and they apply 
as well to Norfolk and Portsmouth, as to Richmond ; but let the 
truth be known, and perchance it may cause a spark to fall upon 
and light up the fires of enterprise and genius that have smoul- 
dered here for so many long and tedious years. 

" A judicious application of capital and labour to the produc- 
tion of articles of prime necessity in our midst, by keeping the 
profits of such undertakings among ourselves, awakening in- 
dustry, and arousing a feeling of self-dependence, has been re- 
garded as the most certain means of advancing the prosperity 
and happiness of communities. Among the enterprises within 
our reach, may be mentioned the manufacture of ready-made 
clothing. It is a business which, of late years, has been carried 
to a great extent, and must have proved very profitable, or it 
would not have been so zealously pursued. It is supposed that 
in our city alone at least one hundred thousand dollars is annu- 
ally expended in this business. The profits upon these sales 
pass, to a great extent, into the hands of people of other States, 
and the labour which it sets in motion and remunerates is the 
labour of strangers. Do we not owe it to ourselves to make an 
efi'ort to appropriate the fruits of such enterprises to our own 
city ? As a merely benevolent undertaking, it has high claims 
to consideration. The manufacture of clothing here would give 
steady and remunerating employment to a large number of per- 



412 HISTORICAL AND 

sons, principally indigent females, and relieve distress whicli 
cannot be effectually reached by charities, however searching and 
zealous. To the capitalist it then presents an opportunity of 
profitable investment, and to the philanthropist an abundant 
field for doing good." 

With regard to the articles of flour and meal, it is estimated 
that 35,000 barrels per annum are required by our city and its 
immediate vicinity, while very large quantities are Avanted for 
exportation, and to supply the demand of the surrounding 
country ; Avhich demand would doubtless be greatly increased if 
there were here extensive mills. 

It is a statement that will scarcely be credited abroad, although 
it is well enough known here, that we have no flour-mills ; nor 
are there even extensive grist-mills, for the grinding of Indian 
corn, in the city. We state with pleasure, that mills have been 
put in operation in Gosport, Avhich furnish a large quantity of 
excellent meal; and Dr. Wm. Tatem's Myrtle Isle Tide Mills, 
near Gilmerton, on the Southern Branch, also assist in supply- 
ing the demand. 

Indian corn is generally cheap here, but meal is almost always 
high. The former is often quoted at fifty-five to sixty cents per 
bushel; Avhile the retail price of meal is eighty-seven and a half 
cents to one dollar ! The proprietors of extensive mills in Baltimore 
and elscAvhere, often procure their corn from Virginia and North 
Carolina ; and with the addition of freight and other necessary 
charges, the meal is shipped in large quantities to assist in sup- 
plying the demand in Norfolk, Portsmouth, and vicinity. It is 
hoped and believed that this state of things will not be continued 
much longer. It must be manifest to a casual observer, that a 
rare opportunity is presented for a most profitable investment of 
capital. 

But it is very reasonably insisted also, that there should be 
large establishments here for the manufacture of cotton goods,* 
paper, loaf-sugar, and other articles already mentioned. It 
cannot be doubted that there are ample means and facilities 
for manufactories of almost every description. It is true, there 

* A cotton factory is now in operation in this city. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 413 

is no water-power, except that afforded by the ebbing and 
flowing of the tides ; but it is asserted by those who are fully 
competent to judge in the case, that, all things considered, steam- 
power would be nearly equal to water-power here, where the best 
of wood is abundant and cheap. There are a number of suitable 
and handsome sites within a mile of the city ; all the necessary 
machinery and materials can be readily obtained here on fair 
terms, and there is no real lack of capital for all such purposes. 

The introduction of extensive mills and manufacturing esta- 
blishments, would, in a very great measure, stop the immense 
drain upon the capital of the place, while hundreds of workmen 
would be attracted hither, who would require provisions, houses, 
clothing, &c., and many of whom Avould become prosperous and 
useful citizens. An impulse, such as has not been witnessed 
before, would be given to every department of business. A number 
of collateral branches of industry would necessarily spring up as 
if by magic, such as barrel, box, and bag manufactories, and all 
classes of society would feel the beneficial tendency of so impor- 
tant and agreeable a change in the state of affairs. 

"Look at New England," said an able representative in our 
Legislature, alluding to improvements and manufactories, " how 
is it that hilly, stony Massachusetts, scarce one-ninth the 
size of Virginia, exhibits the glowing picture she does of pros- 
perity in all the branches of industry, and of abundant wealth 
and smiling comfort throughout her borders? It is because 
there agriculture, manufactures, and commerce are beautifully 
blended ; because there is there that diversity of vocation which 
raises up ' rich consumers instead of impoverished producers ;' 
because her consumers and producers are distinct classes, and 
placed alongside of each other ; because the ' plough, the loom, 
and the anvil,' instead of being antagonistic, act reciprocally 
upon, and bear bounteous tribute to, each other ; because, in fine, 
by her manufactures she creates throughout her domain a mul- 
tiplicity of home markets to absorb her agricultural surpluses, 
large and small, which, after all, is the true secret of thrift. 

" But perhaps I shall best illustrate my ideas on this subject 
by an interesting anecdote which I gathered from an agricultural 



414 HISTORICAL AND 

address, in which is ably enforced this dependence of agricultural 
prosperity upon manufactures. 

"A Mr. Phinney, of Massachusetts, who had reduced to pro- 
fitable cultivation a piece of land which had been covered with 
stone, was asked how he was compensated for his pains. ' Pray, 
my dear sir,' said a friend, ' how do you get remunerated for 
removing, as you tell me you have, more than a ton of stone for 
every six feet square of land, now covered with the finest grasses, 
and orchards of the finest fruits ? Where do you find customers 
to buy, as you tell me you sell $2000 worth of fruit alone in a 
single year ?' 

" ' Why, sir,' replied Mr. Phinney, ' have we not, besides 
many other little market towns, 30,000 hungry consumers at one 
manufacturing village, Lowell, ready to buy all our spare fruit, 
and milk, and butter, and eggs, and poultry, and vegetables, and 
our meat, from a pig of four hundred pounds, down to a pint of 
blackberries ?' 

" This little anecdote," said the speaker, " solves the mystery, 
and reveals the secret of Northern and New England thriftiness 
and wealth. Go to New England, and you do not see, as you do 
in the Southern States, every body engaged in agriculture. You 
find one portion of the people producing for the other ; one 
making, the other eating up, the products of the other. There 
is consequently no over-production, no glut of the market ; a 
just relation is preserved between supply and demand ; sale is 
found for everything at remunerating prices ; all have employ- 
ment, and all are thriving and happy." 

All that is wanting then, here, as before declared, is more 
enterprise — the true spirit and life of business — the real " light- 
ning of the human understanding." Let this irresistible motive 
power be more fully applied to the mental and physical system 
of the people, let this all-powerful, life-giving, and wonder-work- 
ing principle of vigour and force be applied to judicious plans, 
and these works, and greater than these, will ere long be com- 
menced, and prosecuted in good earnest. And then may it be 
said, adopting the language of an intelligent writer of the pre- 
sent day, " When Virginia's great Central Canal shall have 
been completed, and she shall have reclaimed all the solid 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 415 

charms of the ' River of Beauty,' Norfolk will spring up into the 
New York of the South." 

The citizens of Norfolk, it must be admitted, have too long 
been regardless of their own interests. It is full time now to 
attempt a change, and to make experiments, at least, in the 
great work of reform. The dull age of slosv movement and 
tedious delays has passed and gone for ever. Elsewhere, — 
north, south, east, west, — the noise of ponderous machinery is 
heard, roaring and clanking, from the dawning day till the latest 
evening hour. Improvements, upon a grand scale, move on 
rapidly. Men Avhiz away through space, like an arrow to its 
mark, or a bird to its nest. With the rapidity of the "light- 
ning's wing," and the quickness of its vivid flash, they hold social 
converse with far distant friends ; and the enterprising are seek- 
ing to make the most of life's fleeting day. Works of extraor- 
dinary magnitude are begun, and completed in an exceedingly 
short space of time. The waters of great rivers and lakes are 
united by dikes, deep and wide, through dense forests, and beds 
of solid rock, — lines of railroad stretch out far and long, even 
towards the secluded abode of the red man in his Avildness, who, 
with the timid deer and the lumbering bufi'alo will soon start up 
alarmed at the sharp noise of the steam-horse, as he dashes along 
in unbridled fury, and they will leave for ever their old familiar 
haunts. Rocky and towering mountains are tunnelled, gigantic 
steamers crowded with human freight, and deeply laden with 
gold and costly merchandise, plough the wide oceans, — splendid 
cities rise up in the West, and adorn the shores of the great 
lakes and the "father of waters," while an astonishing impulse 
has been given, of late years, to commerce, the arts, and the 
important subject of education, too, in various sections of the 
great South and Southwest. 

" New elements of prosperity are becoming developed in the 
Southern States, through their internal improvements, and mine- 
ral resources, and capacity for manufactures. The Southern 
States, instead of being tributaries to Northern merchants, ship- 
owners, manufacturers, and mechanics, are beginning to help 
themselves to the profits of such pursuits. The time is at hand, 
when New England and New York will, — and even without any 
non-intercourse laws on the part of the South, — be deprived of 



416 HISTORICAL AND 

the exclusive benefits which they have so long enjoyed in sup- 
plying the consumption of the South, with Northern manufac- 
tures and fabrics, and conducting for the South all her commerce 
and navigation. Already, under the operation of reciprocal 
navigation law, the bulk of the cotton products is carried direct 
from Southern ports to foreign ports and in foreign vessels. 
Much is still shipped by way of New York to Liverpool and 
Havre ; but this will soon be prevented by arrangements now in 
progress with British capitalists and ship-owners. This being 
done, is it not easy to see that the articles of foreign growth and 
fabric wanted by the South, will also be brought directly to 
Southern ports ? Coarse cottons, shoes and hats, mechanical and 
agricultural instruments, the South have begun to supply them- 
selves with by aid of her own labour and capital." 

And shall there be still no great manifestation here in Norfolk 
and Portsmouth, the seaport of Virginia, — no extraordinary 
bustle and stir, — prominently, beautifully, and advantageously 
situated as they are ? No united attempt to foster industry, and 
join in those great enterprises, which, if properly managed, must 
redound to the advancement of all this southeastern section of 
the State ? It is not believed that so humiliating a fact will ever 
be found on record. The great business of reform has already 
commenced, — the reform party have the ascendancy, and the op- 
posing powers are too feeble to retard the progress of important 
works of improvement already begun, or to prevent the comple- 
tion of others in contemplation. 



i 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 417 



CHAPTER, LV. 

Coloured Population — Misinformed Fanatics — Condition of the Coloured People 
— Fidelity^Preference for a State of Subjection — Reciprocal Regard of 
Masters and Slaves — Plentiful Fare, Clothing, &c. — Attention, Treatment, 
Intelligence, Ingenuity, &c. — Venerable Old Freed-man — His Benevolence — 
Ignorance, Superstition, &c., of the Coloured People — Piety — Easy Life — 
Sleeping, Eating, &c. — Contentment — Religious Privileges — Marriage Vows 
■ — Respect to the Dead — Impressive Funeral Ceremonies — Negro Life in New 
York — Laziness — Lower Classes — Decrease in Numbers — The Different 
Classes — Cow Bay — Five Points — Pigs, Cats, Dogs, Rats, and Children — 
Horrible Condition — Houses — Occupations — Intemperance — Bar-rooms and 
Sleeping Apartments — Cellars and Filth — Idleness and Thoft — "Prigging the 
Wipes" — Night Orgies — Effluvia — Civic Privileges — Occupation — Frederick 
Douglass — IMenial Slavery in New York— How the Blacks kennel together 
like Beasts — Accommodations, Furniture, &c. — Wages — Ragged Chimney 
Sweeps — Pitiable State — The Better Class — Waiters — Private Servants — 
Their Native Home — Colonization Society — Uncle Tom's Cabin — English 
Ladies — Unintentional Result. 

As the population of Norfolk embraces a large proportion of 
coloured persons, we may appropriately offer some descriptive 
remarks in relation to their condition, general character, &c. 
With regard to the extravagant descriptions and wholesale 
denunciations, so common in some of the Northern prints, 
and emanating from misinformed fanatics, — both the observant 
resident and scrutinizing traveller are struck with the utter 
inappropriateness of all such vituperation ; so far, at least, as 
the communities of Norfolk, Portsmouth, and vicinity are con- 
cerned. Indeed, these remarks apply, in a great measure, to 
the South generally. The object of the writer, here, is not to 
advocate slavery, but simply to present an impartial statement 
of facts. 

Our coloured people, the slaves particularly, are generally 
happy and contented. They are entirely free from those cares 
and troubles which necessarily grow out of the responsibilities 
and duties of life, that devolve on those upon whom they depend 
for support. This statement will apply especially to those who are 
held in servitude, and who, of course, constitute the principal 

27 



418 HISTORICAL AND 

portion of the Ijlacks here. Very many of them seem as free as 
any beings on the face of the earth; having, generally, liberal, 
kind, and indulgent owners, who allow them many privileges and 
who look anxiously to their welfare, providing for them comfortable 
lodging-rooms, sufficient clothing, and a full quantity of whole- 
some food. Although, it must be admitted, that in some instances 
they are very unfaithful, and sometimes shamefully betray the 
confidence of their owners, yet, as is well known and acknow- 
ledged, there are numbers of cases in which are manifested the 
most praiseworthy fidelity and devotion to the interests of masters 
and mistresses. It is also quite observable, that there are not a 
few who prefer their present state of subjection to their owners, to 
an unqualified freedom, and whom no inducement which a mis. 
guided abolitionist might oifer, could tempt to a separation and 
a consequent self-dependence.* And the strong feeling of re- 
ciprocal regard and kindness on the part of owners, is not com- 
prised in any of the fanciful and contumelious descriptions of 
wild enthusiasts. Many, very many of the more reflecting, in- 
telligent, and observant citizens of the Northern and Eastern 
States know and admit these remarks to be true. 

A^ery generally, the servants here have excellent fare, and 
sometimes a superfluity of clothing, and pocket-money besides. 
The numbers that are employed as cooks, dining-room servants, 
chambermaids, nurses, washerwomen, carriage drivers, porters, 

^ " There died lately, iu a lower county of Virginia, a mulatto man who was 
manumitted by his master, and was, under our law, permitted to remain in 
Virginia. His master had, with his liberty, left him a respectable property, 
and this man, by industry, accumulated an estate of $25,000. He had pur- 
chased his wife, who was a slave, and his children were therefore his own pro- 
perty as well as his wife. 

"Falling into bad health, he went to Philadelphia some time during this last 
summer for medical advice; but learning from the best physicians that his 
health was worse than he thought, and that he could not live, he wrote to a 
relative of his old master to come on for him, which this gentleman did, and 
stayed with him and brought him back to Virginia at his request. He died 
shortly after his return, and by his last will left all his estate to this gentle- 
man, as well as his wife and children, who are thus the slaves of his friend ; 
trusting, of course, that he would care for them, and provide for them. 

"These are notorious and recorded facts, and can be proved if denied ; and 
there are many such occurrences among our coloured people." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 419 

hostlers, &c., are well provided for in health and in sickness, and 
seldom afford a case of bad treatment on the part of the master, 
or of notable insubordination on the part of the servant. 

Among both the bond and tlic free, of either sex, there arc to 
be found individuals of excellent sense, sincere piety, and disin- 
terested benevolence. There was one, a venerable and pious frced- 
man, whose pilgrimage has ended, the noise of whose dray-whcels 
was sweet music to the ears of many a suffering occupant 
of the comfortless and chilly abodes of poverty and distress, 
especially during the freezing days of winter ; as was justly re- 
marked, in substance, by a distinguished citizen. And yet, take 
them as a body, they are, as may be expected, ignorant, super- 
stitious, and excitable. They appear, however, nearly all of 
them, to be naturally fond of religious worship, passionately 
fond of attending church, singing, exhorting, "relating their ex- 
perience," praying, shouting, &c. ; and in very numerous in- 
stances in health, and in the trying hour of nature's dissolution, 
they evince correct views of the Christian religion, and exhibit 
remarkable cases of entire fearlessness of death ; while the sable 
countenance, and simple, though sincere expressions, give pleasing 
evidence of the joy with which the hope of a rest in heaven 
inspires the heart. 

Many of the slaves in this part of Virginia live an exceed- 
ingly easy life. They labour, it is true, in many cases, well and 
faithfully ; but they sleep soundly, eat heartily, sing cheerfully ; 
being manifestly and necessarily quite unconcerned about their 
own Avants, as well as about those subjects that agitate enlightened 
society, and the grave questions that often disturb the quiet of the 
political and religious world. They are allowed, without restraint, 
to attend church several times on the Sabbath, and often on 
other days of the week, and worship in their own way, without 
molestation. In many instances, families of them " hire their 
own time," occupy a house, and dwell together in peace; pay 
a commendable regard to their marriage vows (though some- 
times imperfectly solemnized), rear their children, perform their 
family devotions, smoke their pipes and enjoy the comforts of 
life, besides paying the amount required by their owners, which 
is seldom extravagant, and often but trifling, sometimes nothing 



420 HISTORICAL AND 

at all. They are generally attentive to one another in sickness, 
and appear to pay great respect to their dead. They gather to- 
gether in the house in Avhich lie the lifeless remains, engage in 
loud singing and praying, often continuing all night ; and, after 
the preaching of the funeral sermon, which always takes place 
at one of their churches, they follow the "slow nodding hearse" 
in great numbers — hundreds, aye, and thousands, frequently 
press quietly on to the last resting-place, where due solem- 
nity is observed ; and frequently the welkin rings while the 
multitude unite their clear and sonorous voices in singing some 
old, familiar, and appropriate funeral dirge, at the calm, quiet, 
evening hour, as they commit the body of a faithful fellow- 
servant to the death-stillness of the grave. 

We must now furnish the reader, by way of contrast, with the 
following extracts of a sketch of negro life in New York, which 
we take from the columns of The Express, an ably- edited paper 
of that great city : 

" So much has been said, and is still being said, about the 
glorious and happy lot of the Free Negro, that we have taken 
considerable pains and trouble to lay before our readers a true 
statement of the condition of our negro population, and to dis- 
cover their secret haunts and pursuits, in order to show these 
ardent philanthropists that there is work enough for them at 
home without going to the South, where, we think, it would be 
difficult to point out as much misery and degradation as exists 
among the black population in a single ward in our city. 

" We have spent much time in examining into this matter. 
We have seen the blacks under almost all circumstances : we 
have entered their dwellings ; we have seen them at work ; we 
have seen them in their drunken revels ; we have seen them in 
their families, — and we have come to the conclusion, that the 
ne<zroes of New York have made nothino- out of the freedom 
which has been given them. Descendants of the old New York 
slaves, some of them also refugees of the South, they adopt the 
idea that they are as good as white men, and act accordingly. 
They are Free — they will do as they please, and nothing can 
make them work but actual starvation, and often not that — and, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 421 

to live at all, they prey on their fellow-men, and eke out a paltry 
existence by begging and stealing. 

" We do not wish to be understood as including all the co- 
loured people here in this category. There are, probably, in 
this city, some five hundred, or perhaps even one thousand, 
bright, intelligent, and intellectual men, who see plainly the evils 
to which their race is subjected here, and strive daily to per- 
suade them to give up their evil ways, — but thus far without 
success. We shall touch upon the 'negro gentleman,' in the 
course of our articles, but at present we shall confine our re- 
marks to the lower classes of negroes, giving a sketch of their 
condition, socially, morally, and physically ; and we commend 
the details to the attention of a certain class of very zealous phi- 
lanthropists, who are especially interested in alleviating the con- 
dition of the distressed Ethiopian. 

" The free negro population of the State of New York, ac- 
cording to the census of 1850, is 47,914, of which number 22,965 
are males, and 24,949 females. (Under the head of ' negro' we 
comprise all who have negro blood in them, from the light Mu- 
latto to the black shining African.) Of these, 13,520 indivi- 
duals — 5,988 males, and 7,532 females — are inhabitants of the 
City and County of New York. The census returns show that 
the negro population has fallen off in this State about ten thou- 
sand since the last census, in 1840, and when we have concluded 
our description of the manner in Avhich they ' live and move, and 
have their being,' we do not think our readers will find it a mat- 
ter of surprise. 

" The negroes in this city may be divided into three classes 
— the thieves and beggars, the chimney-sweeps and whitewashers, 
the waiters at hotels and private servants. To each of these 
classes we will give a passing glance, visiting their resorts, and 
showing our readers what they really are. 

" The thieves and beggars — absolute paupers, who are too 
lazy to look for work, and too indolent or vicious to accept it if 
it should be offered to them — mostly rendezvous in the lower 
parts of the Fifth and Sixth Wards, though they may be found 
in small numbers in the Fourth, Eighth, and Fourteenth AYards. 
Their chief haunt is in Cow Bay, a miserable little alley which 



422 HISTORICAL AND 

runs out of Anthony Street, or may be called tlie continuation 
of Little Water Street, in the notorious Five Points. This place, 
though now bad enougli, in all conscience, is a paradise to what 
it was a year or so ago, before the work of reformation in that 
neighbourhood was commenced by the Rev. L. M. Pease, whose 
parsonage, and Industrial Home, is but a few rods from the loca- 
tion we are about describing. To look at it in passing from 
Anthony Street, the ordinary observer would see nothing in Cow 
Bay but a small, narrow, and exceedingly dirty court, about one 
hundred and twenty or thirty feet deep, with a row of shabby 
three-story brick houses on one side, and dilapidated brick and 
wooden hovels on the other. Pigs, cats, dogs, rats, and chil- 
dren, black and white, wallowing in the mud, or taking their 
initiatory lessons in rascality together, generally greet the eye 
the first thing on entering ; and what at first sight appears but 
one court, in the result of an examination proves to be rather a 
succession of courts — a labyrinth of alley-ways, bordered on all 
sides with dirty and filthy houses — a hive, sweltering full of 
human brutes — a small citj^ in itself, teeming with a population 
altogether of a difi"erent nature from those who live but a few 
blocks from them. 

"A stranger should be wary of entering this place without a 
guide ; for so many are the turnings, the dark corners, the high 
and ricketty stairways, the low and noisome cellars, that, once 
in, he would be puzzled to find his way out again to the free air 
of Heaven. This locality is the principal dwelling-place of the 
negroes ; this is where their orgies are carried on ; and here 
they live and die like pigs, and their carcasses are stowed away 
in some corner of Potter's Field, with about as much respect as 
would be paid to the carrion of an ohl horse. 

" The houses have generally eight or ten rooms, including the 
attics and cellars, and in these are crowded not unfrequently 
two or three hundred souls. The cellars are so arranged that 
the sidewalk comes up to within eighteen inches or a foot of the 
wall of the house, and, looking down, one may perceive a deep, 
dark, nasty trap, into which all kinds of refuse are thrown, and 
into which, not unfrequently, the inebriated inmates of the courts 
themselves meet their end. At intervals, reachino; from the side- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. ' 423 

walk to the bottom of this gutter, are pLiced ladders, or steps, 
to give ingress and egress to the animals who burrow in the cel- 
lars. The front cellar is usually eight or ten by six feet in size, 
with a ceiling so low that an ordinary sized man must look out 
for his hat on entering. One end of this apartment is fitted up 
with a bar, stocked with villainous compounds called liquors, 
which are sold to the wretched inhabitants for three cents a 
glass each, as long as they have money, and four cents credit, 
as long as they have any personal property that the landlord 
can levy upon for his pay when their money is gone. Back of 
the ' bar-room' appears another apartment, perhaps a little 
larger, perhaps smaller, according to the size of the house, and 
in this kennel are often crowded together fifteen or twenty per- 
sons, negroes and white, male and female, adults and children, 
without any more light and air than what can come in through 
the door. These sleep together on the same rags — beds there 
are none — or on the same straw, and rarely or never do the in- 
habitants of these cellars retire to their rest until they are too 
much inebriated to remain longer awake, when they lay themselves 
down, in the clothes which probably they have not taken off for 
months, and sleep off the fumes of their drunkenness in the midst 
of the most revolting filth. 

"Not unfrequently, in the larger houses, one or two apartments 
are not all that are to be found in a cellar ; sometimes these 
sinks are two stories deep, or have side branches extending 
under the courts, and these all, of course, worse than the first. 
With no floors, or Avith such as were originally laid, long ago 
rotten and worn out, so out of repair that whenever it rains the 
filth of the gutter and courts is washed down to make part and 
parcel of the heap the wretches sleep upon ; never cleaned out 
from one year's end to the other — these noisome holes are not fit 
habitations even for the vermin which swarm in them ; and yet here 
these creatures, who call themselves men and women, and who 
would feel themselves insulted were a white man to call them 
'nisicers,' drag; out their miserable existence. 

" During the day, the inhabitants of ' Cow Bay' and its 
' courts' and ' alleys' keep themselves pretty quiet ; they only 
step out to get their three or four cents' worth of gin, and then 



424 HISTORICAL AND 

burrow themselves in their dens again. If the day be clear and 
the sun warm, large numbers of full-grown negroes, men and 
women, may be seen lolling over barrels in front of the ' groce- 
ries' on the corners, listlessly dangling their legs, smoking those 
villainous nuisances — short, black pipes — or lying asleep full 
length on the sidewalk. As long as it is daylight, the police do 
not disturb them, unless, Avhich is not unfrequently the case, 
they detect those who are awake, or pretending to be asleep, in 
'prigging the wipes' {i. e., stealing the handkerchiefs), or beg- 
ging alms of the passers-by. If they succeed in getting any- 
thing undetected, it is instantly pawned, or spent at the bar of 
the nearest rum-hole for gin and tobacco. Others seat them- 
selves on the curbstones of more reputable streets, and hanging 
an ' I am blind' about their necks, sit out the day, with their 
hands stretched out before them, awaiting the chance coppers of 
the wayfarer, to be spent in the Five Point dens of iniquity at 
night. Others, again, will lounge around the market-places, 
slyly stealing whatever they can put their hands upon, from a 
potato up to a pocket-book. And thus the negro thieves and 
beggars spend their days. 

" At night, as soon as it is fairly dark, the particular locality 
we have endeavoured faintly to describe, assumes the appearance 
of a swarming hive. Every cellar, alley, attic, and court, pours 
out its quota, and the dusky populace crowd the gin cellars and 
dance cellars, where they spend what they have begged or stolen 
during the day. There are but three or four of these dance 
cellars now in full operation, though, formerly, there was one 
under almost every house. From sixpence to a shilling is charged 
for admittance to these holes, where, in their filth and misery, 
the half-drunken darkeys dance till they are tired, and then call 
at the bar, which is always convenient, for drink. In another 
room, not known to all who go to these places, is the shuffle- 
board, the dice-table, and the policy-agency, which generally 
glean tlie few pennies the negro has left. Male and female alike 
participate in these revels, in the hottest as well as the coldest 
weather ; and when they are gathered together, in the full tide 
of the dance and the game, the effluvia and toute ensemble of the 
scene can be better imagined than described. When they are 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 425 

drunk, or have been 'cleaned out,' tliey are pushed into the 
street, where they may be stumbled against, asleep on the side- 
walk, half in an alley-way, half out, or altogether in the gutter, 
at all hours of the night. The station house could not hold the 
quarter of these wretches, thus found every night ; conse€|uently, 
those whose only offence is sleeping on the sidewalk, are gene- 
rally roused and sent on their way, but no sooner has the officer 
passed by on his beat, than they lie down again, and sleep till 
the next patrol comes around, and so pass the remainder of the 
night in a series of constant alarms. If, however, they resist 
the officer when told to go home, they are shut up for the night 
in the station house, and sent to the Island for vagrancy the 
next morning. 

" A negro is an inhabitant always, but not a citizen in New 
York, nor entitled to a single civic privilege, until he is the 
possessor of real estate, over and above his just debts, to the 
amount of $500 ; consequently, there are very few negro citizens. 
Until a negro is a citizen he cannot take out a license to drive 
a hack, a cab, or a cart — consequently we see very few negro 
drivers, unless in the livery of servitude, on the box of some rich 
man. A negro inhabitant merely, cannot take out a license of 
any sort — yet we find hundreds of cellars where negroes, in de- 
fiance of the law, sell liquor — liquid fire — without a license. We 
find no negroes behind stalls in our markets. We find few, or 
none keeping store. We find none at the carpenter's bench, the 
blacksmith's forge, the ship yard, the foundry, the printing 
ofiice — unless we except, indeed, the half-dozen that Frederick 
Douglass employs in the ofiice of his abolition paper, because he 
could not get a white printer to work for him. In fiict, we find 
negroes at no employment which is usually followed by white 
men — consequently the negro, if he works at all, is driven to 
those menial offices which no white man, who deserves the name 
— and who could keep himself from starving by doing anything 
else — would perform. Thus we find the best of them, who boast 
of their freedom from servitude to Southern masters, voluntarily 
becoming, for the smallest stipends, slaves in fact to a greater 
degree than they were while yet in bondage. We do not find them 



426 HISTORICAL AND 

here following the higher branches of labour, as they do in the 
South. They cannot here till the soil, nor labour in the work- 
shop, but they clean the mud off their white master s boots, they 
rub down their white ^Rasters horses, they sweep his chimneys, 
and whitewash his stables, draw his Avater, and hew his wood, 
and, in their highest estate, drive his carriage ! Can any one 
inform us in what respect the Northern slave is superior to the 
Southern ? 

;!; H< * * * * * 

" We have ourselves seen, in a six by eight attic room of a 
house in Thomas Street, between West Broadway and Hudson 
Street, two entire negro families, containing thirteen individuals, 
male, female, young and old, who in that small kennel, with only 
one window of six panes of glass, ate, drank, slept, — indiscrimi- 
nately, men and women together, — cooked, washed and ironed 
(for the women generally help to support the family, by taking 
in w\ashing), and in fact, transacted all the business of a house- 
hold. How thirteen individuals could pack themselves to sleep 
comfortably in a room, six by eight feet, seemed incomprehen- 
sible to us, until we saw it done. Not only did they cover the 
floor, but moveable shelves, which during the day time were let 
down parallel with the wall by a hinge, were at night time, when 
the negroes wished to 'turn in,' propped up, and, having a raised 
edge to keep the inmates from tumbling out,— with the clothes 
worn by the sleeper during the day thrown on the shelf to make 
it a little softer than the hard side of a plank,— they declared 
they had capital accommodations. Table they had none, chairs 
they had none, but the sleeping shelves, when a table was wanted 
for eating or ironing, answered every purpose, and the floor, or 
half a dozen camp stools, that could be shut up and stowed in a 
small space, answered for the seats. 

"A good whitewasher, when business is brisk, can earn from 
fifty to seventy-five cents a day ; but there are some negroes of 
more enterprise than their fellows, who act as boss whitewashers, 
and can always have a gang under their control to do any large 
job that may off'er. These bosses are paid by the job, and pay 
their underlings by the day, taking care to beat them down to 
the lowest possible farthing. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 427 

" The chimney-sweeps arc not so fortunate. The poor crea- 
tures strike us as being full as miserable as their brethcrn, the 
beggars and thieves, even if they are not so wicked. Constantly 
begrimmed with soot and smoke, and carrying the dirty im- 
plements of their work on their shoulders ; their clothes — rags 
rather, for we never saw the sweep who was not ragged — torn, 
dirty, and hanging in strips ; their hats battered, and scarcely 
hanging together ; and their melancholy cry of ' sweep ho, sweep,' 
as they shuffle through street after street, looking in vain for a 
job — invest them with the most miserable air, and causes them 
to appear (in our eye, at least), objects most supremely to be 
pitied. They live in the cellars of Church Street, York Street, 
St. John's Lane, and some parts of Thomas Street, and a few of 
them we have known on the Five Points. Their apartments 
are like themselves — wretched, dark, dirty, black, and noisome." 

The Express also gives an account of the character and habits 
of those who compose the better class of coloured persons in New 
York, — the waiters at the hotels, the private servants, &c., and 
regrets that these form only a small portion of the negroes of 
that city. 

These humiliating facts were given to the public late in 1851, 
and it is truly hoped that the miserable and humiliating condition 
of the unfortunate African, thus described, has since been im- 
proved in that mighty city. The extracts we have made, it will 
be admitted, are sufficiently distressing to contemplate ; but the 
reader may be assured that we withhold the darkest part of 
the frightful picture, because the refined would shrink from it 
Avith amazement. Minds unused to the contemplation of such 
depths of degradation and wretchedness, would experience too 
deep a thrill of horror. 

Of course, there are places where free negro life presents a 
less degrading aspect than that which is so graphically sketched 
by the able writer quoted above. But, we say, when the coloured 
man is freed, let him be sent to his native and appropriate home 
beyond the waters of the ocean ; to those green and fertile shores, 

"Where Afric's sunny fountains 
Roll down their golden sands." 



428 HISTORICAL AND 

There only, he may be "free and equal;" there only will he 
properly appreciate his freedom, and feel independent. Emanci- 
pate the slaves, and whether they find a home at the north, south, 
east, or west, they are, and ever will be, looked upon as an in- 
ferior race, and they Avill be, virtually, the humble menials and 
dependants of the white man, or worse. It rejoices the heart of 
their true friends to know, that, under the direction and influence 
of a great, benevolent, and philanthropic enterprise, noble barks 
are bearing them on, in large numbers, before the free breezes of 
heaven, to the land of their fathers, where the light of divine 
truth, and the comforts and blessings of civilization, may be 
realized and enjoyed without hindrance or molestation. 

With regard to the author of " Uncle Tom's Cabin," and its 
fallacies, we merely present a few extracts from the views ex- 
pressed in the "British Army Dispatch," which are in accord- 
ance with those of very many reflecting and intelligent men in 
England, and in the Northern and Eastern sections of the United 
States, as well as at the South : 

" We believe it to be devoid of truth, principles, and reality, 
and that its tendencies are highly mischievous, and detrimental 
to the interests of mankind. In saying this, we entirely acquit 
its author of evil design, wickedness, or intended falsehood. 

* * * ;!c >;< * * 

" We say this one-sided representation is creating mischief 
between Great Britain and the United States, which nothing can 
remedy, no treatise obviate, no statesmanship avoid." 

Of the recent movements of some respectable, though mis- 
guided English females, in regard to American slavery, the same 
able and judicious writer says: "The sickly interference of our 
fine ladies, many, nay, most of whom would shrink from the 
contact of a dying needle-woman on their door steps, and daily 
pass unheeded the miseries of thousands of white women, is an 
excess of folly and hypocrisy that will be the curse of freedom 
throughout the world." 

It is quite probable, by the way, that such efforts as those 
alluded to, will have an unintentional and salutary eff"ect upon 
suff'ering humanity. Indeed, it appears that such a result has al- 
ready begun to develope itself. The withering rebukes that have 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 429 

been elicited from various quarters, accompanied with descriptions 
of wretchedness, woe, starvation, and ignorance, tliat almost rend 
the stoutest hearts, are gradually producing a feeling of disgust 
from every direction for those who have portrayed the hardships 
of the negroes of the south in terms generally so fanciful and 
untrue to life. The efiect may be to withdraw the public mind 
from the imaginary sufferings of these, to the real and untold 
sorrow, woe, and degradation of thousands at the North, and of 
immense numbers of the whites in England and elsewhere ; and 
the tendency may be to induce the true philanthropist to direct 
his benevolent efforts towards the alleviation of Avrongs and op- 
pressions where they exist to the greatest extent, and in mourn- 
ful reality. 



CHAPTER LVI. 

Portsmouth — Furthei' Observations — View from the Norfolk Side — Act of As- 
sembly Establishing the Town — "William Crawford— Wooden Chimneys — 
Directors and Trustees — Advancement — Plan of the Town — Streets — Build- 
ings—Sociality, Hospitality, &c.— Portsmouth in 180G— Trade with the West 
Indies— Advantages — Navy Yard — Dismal Swamp Canal — Intercourse — 
Bridges— Wharves — Merchants— Population — Houses— National Establish- 
ment — Improvements — Mayor and Council — Description of the Site, &c. — 
Harbour — Why the Town has not Advanced more Rapidly — English and 
Scotch Merchants — Pvevolutionary Spirit— Gosport Iron Works — Manage- 
ment — Position — Capacity, &c. 

It has, of course, been observed that, in the preceding re- 
marks, frequent allusion is made to Portsmouth, to which much 
of what has been said with regard to Norfolk applies with equal 
force. But the reader's attention will now be invited to some 
further observations, more particularly relative to the sister 
town over the water, standing there on the opposite shore, and 
presenting quite an agreeable view from the Norfolk side, 
stretching along the banks of the main stream, and extending for 
some distance around on the southern branch. 



430 HISTORICAL AND 

Portsmoutli was established a town by Act of Assembly, in 
February, 1752,* on the land of Wm. Crawford ; and in 1763, 
the limits of the town were extended, by adding the lands of Mr. 
Veale. 

The following Act was passed by the General Assembly, held 
at the College in Williamsburg, in February, 1752, in the 25th 
year of the reign of George II., " of Great Britain, France, and 
Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith," &c. 

" An Act for establisliing the town of Portsmoutli, in the County of Norfolk, 
and to prevent the building of wooden chimneys therein. 

I. "Whereas it hath been represented to this Assembly, that 
William Crawford, of the County -of Norfolk, gentleman, hath 
lately laid out a parcel of land, on the south side of Elizabeth 
River, opposite to the town of Norfolk, into one hundred and 
twenty-two lots, commodious streets, places for a court-house, 
market, and public landings, for a town, by the name of Ports- 
mouth, and made sale of most of the said lots, to divers persons 
who are desirous to settle and build thereon speedily ; and also 
that the said town lies very convenient for trade and navigation : 

" II. Be it enacted, by the Lieutenant-Governor, Council, and 
Burgesses of this present General Assembly, and it is hereby, 
enacted by the authority of the same. That the said piece or 
parcel of land be, and is hereby constituted, appointed, erected, 
and established, a town, in the manner it is already laid out, by 
the said William Crawford, in lots and streets, to be called by, 
and retain the name of Portsmouth, and that the freeholders of 
the said town shall, for ever hereafter, enjoy the same rights 
and privileges which the freeholders of any other towns, erected 
by Act of Assembly, in this colony, have and enjoy. 

" III. And be it further enacted by the authority aforesaid, 
That it will not be lawful for any person whatsoever, to erect or 
build, or cause to be erected or built, in the said town, any 

* The precise day on which the law passed is not positively known. It is 
supposed that the enactment took place on the 22d day of February, 1752; or, 
as some have it, on the 11th of February, 1752, old style, which time is equal 
to the same period. But Portsmouth became a town, actually under the new 
style. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 431 

■wooden chimney ; and if any person shall presume to erect, or 
build any wooden chimney, contrary to the directions of this Act, 
it shall and may be lawful for the sheriff of the said county, and 
he is hereby required to cause such chimney to be pulled down 
and demolished." 

The following is an extract from an Act passed in May, 1763, 
eleven years after the institution of the town, by which the first 
Board of Directors and Trustees were constituted and appointed, 
and their powers defined. 

"And be it further enacted by the authority aforesaid. 
That Andrew Sprowle, George Veal, Thomas Veal, Charles 
Steuart, Humphry Roberts, Francis Miller, James Rae, David 
Purcell, and Amos Etheridge, gentlemen, shall be, and they are 
hereby nominated, constituted, and appointed, directors and 
trustees of the said town ; and they, or any five of them, shall 
and may, and they are hereby authorized and empowered, to 
survey and lay off the said adjacent lands into lots and streets, 
and to make from time to time such orders, rules, and directions, 
for the regular and orderly placing and building the houses in 
the said town as to them shall seem expedient ; and that in case 
of the death, removal out of the country, or other legal disability, 
of any one or more of the directors and trustees before named, 
it shall and may be lawful for the surviving or remaining trustees 
to elect and choose so many other persons in the room of those 
so dead or disabled as shall make up the number of nine ; which 
trustees so chosen shall, to all intents and purposes, be vested 
with the same power as any other in this Act particularly nomi- 
nated and appointed." 

The growth of the place, like that of Norfolk, has been gradual ; 
its prosperity sometimes very apparent and rapid, and again 
almost at a stand, if at all perceptible. The town is regularly 
laid off in squares. The streets (forty in number), cross at 
right angles, lying about east and west, and north and south. 
Many of the thoroughfixres are very wide ; affording ample space 
for carriages, drays, &c. There are several handsome and com- 
modious public edifices, including the Town Hall (a description 
of which has already been given), Oxford Hall, eight handsome 
churches, a bank. Masonic and Odd-Fellows' Lodges, &c. There 



432 HISTORICAL AND 

are also many fine and commodious stores and private dwellings, 
a number having been built during the past year. 

The inhabitants of Portsmouth have long been noted for their 
animated sociability, hospitality, and public spirit. " The popu- 
lation embraces men of great worth of character, good judgment, 
sound discretion, native talent, and enlightened experience. 
Many worthy descendants of worthy sires survive to grace the 
places which they have vacated." 

"In noticing Portsmouth," said Mr. Simmons, in his Norfolk 
Directory, published in 1806, " which is situated opposite to 
Norfolk, much cannot be said of its commercial relations, in a 
distinct respect ; the business of both places being, in a great 
degree, connected. It, however, carries on no inconsiderable 
trade, chiefly to the Antilles, and has several square-rigged and 
other vessels belonging to the port. In addition to its natural 
advantages, which are equal to those of Norfolk, it has of late 
acquired some collateral benefits, to wit : the establishment of a 
Navy Yard at Gosport, the removal of the County Court to the 
town, the opening of the Dismal Swamp Canal, and the erection 
of good drawbridges over both branches of the river, which 
facilitate an intercourse with Norfolk much more than the ferry : 
— these may certainly be esteemed acquisitions. Yet a more 
important advantage will be derived from the improvements noAV 
making on the wharves and wharf-lots, both by its own merchants 
and some opulent ones of Norfolk. This town (Portsmouth) is 
said to have contained, ten years ago (1796), three hundred 
houses, and seventeen hundred inhabitants ; at present (1806), 
there are about seven hundred houses and three thousand inhabi- 
tants. The advantages and improvements of Portsmouth pro- 
mise, though not a rivalship with its sister town, a reasonable 
hope of its rise and advancement from its former comparatively 
non-important state." 

Portsmouth includes Gosport and Newtown, about a quarter 
of a mile distant on the south, and connected by a causeway 
and bridges. At the great national establishment at Gosport, a 
large number of men, varying from twelve to fifteen hundred, 
find employment, much the greater portion of whom, with their 
families, reside in Portsmouth. They receive their pay in gold, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 433 

semi-monthly, and, as a matter of course, circulate a large 
amount in the town for supplies of every description ; although 
Norfolk comes in for her share in the general distribution. 

The spirit of improvement is getting abroad afresh in Ports- 
mouth, as well as in Norfolk ; and it is believed that when the 
Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad, shall be connected with other 
great "works of internal improvement, already progressing, and 
when these shall be completed, this pleasant and agreeable town 
will, in common with Norfolk, grow with astonishing rapidity. 

There are two well-edited daily papers in Portsmouth ; the 
Transcript, by D. D. Fisk, Esq., and the Democrat, by H. E. 
Orr, Esq. 

On the 3d of April, 1852, the voters of Portsmouth, accord- 
ing to Act of Assembly, elected a Mayor and Common Council. 
John S. White, Esq., was duly chosen mayor or chief magistrate 
of the town, and the following gentlemen were elected Council- 
men : Wm. R. Woodend, Chas. L. Cocke, Thos. Moran, Wm. 
H. H. Hodges, R. A. J. Thompson, Harrison Ferebee, John 
Vermillion, H. J. Phillips, John Lash, Caleb Nash, Collin Rey- 
nolds, John L. Porter, and Wm. D. Schoolfield. 

Mr. John L. Porter was chosen President. 

The site of Portsmouth was admirably planned, and is well 
suited to answer all the requirements of an extensive and flou- 
rishing commercial city ; and some of the citizens insist that it 
was intended to be what Norfolk now is, and much greater, in 
wealth and importance. Portsmouth has the advantage in re- 
gard to the width and regularity of the streets, and is upon 
the better side of the river, in some respects ; although the Nor- 
folk side, perhaps, affords to the shipping greater security and 
shelter from storms, and it is more comfortable and agreeable 
for landing and discharging cargoes, especially in the winter 
season. 

It is surprising to some persons, that Portsmouth should not 
have advanced rapidly after the Revolution, and continued greatly 
in the ascendency ; having had, for six or seven years, no rival 
on the opposite side of the river ; Norfolk having been destroyed 
by fire. But the improvement and rapid increase of the former 
place were prevented by some of its injudicious, though zealous 

28 



434 HISTORICAL AND 

and patriotic, residents. At the time of the destruction of Nor- 
folk, there were not a few commission-merchants and agents from 
England, Scotland, &c., extensively engaged in shipping and 
commerce in the borough. Many of these desired to re-com- 
mence business, and settle in Portsmouth. In this, however, 
they were sadly disappointed, having met with great opposition 
from some of the most influential citizens, whose enthusiastic 
Revolutionary spirit and inveterate hatred for the tories were 
exceedingly unfavourable to commercial operations by persons 
whose political sentiments were not known to be in strict accor- 
dance with their own. Some of the Scotch and English factors 
and traders, on visiting the town, were treated very repulsively, 
and even required to leave at short notice. Of course, it was 
o-reatly to the interest of the proprietors of the lots on the Nor- 
folk side to offer facilities to those who desired to re-engage in 
commercial pursuits; and the spirit of opposition not having 
been so rabid on this side of the water as to destroy all regard 
to personal interest, Norfolk soon began to rise from its ruins, 
and at length acquired the ascendency over Portsmouth in point 
of wealth, population, and commercial facilities, which she has 
steadily maintained to the present day. 

The GosPORT Iron Works, A. Mehaffey, Esq., Proprietor, is 
an important acquisition to Portsmouth and Gosport, and, in- 
deed, to this section of Virginia. This establishment, though 
already noticed in this Avork, claims a further allusion. It is 
very extensive, and is conducted in a most judicious and liberal 
manner. All kinds of iron machinery are finished here in the 
most beautiful style. Steam engines, from a small size to the 
largest, most ponderous, and powerful ; castings of every de- 
scription, in iron, brass, copper, and lead ; and every variety of 
rough and polished work, wrought or cast, of beautiful workman- 
ship, and astonishing accuracy, neatness, and durability, are all 
furnished with great despatch at these works. From two to 
three hundred men are employed, and the probability is, that a 
larger number will be required. The position was very judici- 
ously chosen, and the establishment must attract an immense 
quantity of work and be well sustained. The generous and gen- 
tlemanly spirit which characterizes the conductors of this exten- 
sive concern, is often spoken of in terms of great commendation. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 435 

and constitutes one of the surest elements of its prosperity. The 
great engine of the Powhatan, as before mentioned, and other 
heavy machinery for the U. S. Government, requiring ripe judg- 
ment, extensive experience, and great ingenuity, as well as ma- 
thematical accuracy and correctness, were constructed at these 
Iron Works ; and other extensive contracts are now in progress. 



CHAPTER LVII. 

Falls of Niagara — Natural Bridge — Laurel Hill, Harper's Ferry, &c. — Want of 
Curiosity and Interest — Objects of Attraction — Dry Dock — Old Point, Hamp- 
ton, &c. — Seashore — Rivers — Farms, Lands, Flowers, Birds, &c. — The Chesa- 
peake — Princess Anne — Kempsville — Digressions — The Ocean — Roads — Lon- 
don Bridge — Bridge over the Thames— Reminiscences — Legends — Pvomance 
— Branch of the Lynnhaven — Random Lines — Nature's Music — The Songsters 
of the Field and the Grove — Nature's Harmony — Grave-Yard — Trees — Cur- 
rent — Associations and Recollections of Youth — Local Attachments. 

It has been stated that there are persons living within a few 
miles of the Falls of Niagara who have heard, for many years, the 
deep, continuous thunders of that stupendous cataract, and yet, 
who have never been sufficiently moved by curiosity to visit that 
sublime work of nature ! There are persons living but a short 
distance from the Natural Bridge in Virginia, who have never 
gazed in wonder and awe at that splendid exhibition of Nature's 
masonry, its immovable parapet of rocks — its gigantic arch, 
thrown by the God of nature across the wild and awful chasm, 
reaching full fifty-five feet higher than the Falls of Niagara, than 
which it is still more an object of profound, inexpressible wonder. 
And so also it may be said of those residing near Laurel Hill, 
and the "river of beauty," and Harper's Ferry, that grand and 
exciting scene, and a thousand other splendid exhibitions of 
nature, besides the numerous magnificent works of art in the 
country. There are individuals living near them, who, for lack 
of interest in them, for want of curiosity, or from some trifling 
cause, will not enjoy a view calculated at once to enlighten and 
elevate the mind, give to man correct notions of himself, in- 



436 • HISTOKICALAND 

spire him with humility, and direct his thoughts above, to Nature's 
Author, the infinitely good and wise Creator and Benefactor. 
These remarks are applicable to individuals residing in Norfolk, 
Portsmouth, and neighbourhood. There are many here who have 
never visited the various interesting and attractive points in the 
vicinity of the place of their nativity. There are some who know 
but little of them, while others are scarely aware of their exis- 
tence. 

There is a gentleman, with some pretensions to intelligence, who 
has been a resident of this city and vicinity for more than twenty 
years, and who has travelled considerably on business, but who 
has never been up James River, who has never visited the 
beautiful village of Smithfield, who has never seen the sin- 
gular fortification of the Rip Raps or Fort Calhoun, who has 
seen the healthful and hospitable town of Hampton but twice, 
and who has never seen Lake Drummond; and doubtless there 
are others to whom the same remarks may apply. There are in- 
telligent ladies, long since upon the shady side of forty, who were 
born and reared here, who have never seen that strong, exten- 
sive, and beautiful piece of masonry, the Dry Dock, and other 
extensive works of art at the U. S. Dock Yard, on the opposite 
side of the river ; and doubtless there are others, of either sex, of 
whom the same may be said. Some have never been to Old 
Point, or witnessed the splendid and soul-inspiring scenery of the 
sea-shore; while others have scarcely ever crossed the Elizabeth. 
How many there are who have never made an excursion up the 
western, southern, or eastern branch of this wide river; who know- 
but little of the general appearance of the country, the farms 
and farm-houses, the forest trees, and luxuriant undergrowth, the 
meandering water-courses, the timbered lands, the swamps, the 
reptiles, the wild flowers, and the singing birds ! But few, com- 
paratively, are aware that " our Avoods and fields are full of wild 
flowers of every colour and shade ; some of which are splendid 
in appearance, and would adorn the finest garden, and that an 
excellent herbarium might be formed, with only that amount of 
trouble which would produce recreation." How few, compara- 
tively, have, upon some bright morning in spring or summer, 
taken a pleasant ride from the noise and bustle of the city in a 
northerly direction, down the Sewell's Point Road to the charm- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 437 

ing shores of the bold, capacious, and picturesque Chesapeake, 
or taking an easterly course down the Princess Anne Road, cross- 
ing the level piece of land embraced in the eastern portion of 
Norfolk County, thence on in the former county through the 
pleasant and hospitable little village of Kempsvillc, ten miles 
from the city, at the head of the eastern branch,* and still on to- 
wards the ocean. We propose to conduct the reader, in imagi- 
nation, along this route, and if we should linger, as it were, and 
recount a few incidents of the past, in connexion with some loca- 
lities on the way, we bespeak his clemency for the digression. 

The Atlantic Ocean, that object of surpassing interest, is ap- 
proachable from Kempsville by two different roads, and by an- 
other about a mile below that village. Perhaps the most plea- 
sant, though not the shortest route, is that in the direction of 
the old Eastern Shore Chapel. Six miles from Kempsville, by 
this road, is London Bridge. Ten or twelve farm-houses, within 
a range of half a mile, together with a store, post-office, sawmill, 
&c., in the immediate vicinity of the bridge, entitle this pleasant 
location to the name of village, as it is sometimes denominated. 

The thoughtful traveller, when he arrives at the bridge, Avill 
be reminded, though only by name and contrast, of the gigantic 
structures of iron and stone, that span the Thames at London, 
whose tremendous arches, and deep-laid foundations of solid 
masonry, defy the utmost force of the swollen current, and re- 

"'^ The Legislature granted a charter for a canal to connect the head waters 
of the western branch of the Lynnhaven and the eastern branch of Elizabeth 
Kiver at Kempsville. 

"This little legislative lift of internal improvement in the tidewater region 
was put in for by the worthy delegate of Princess Anne, James S. Garrison, 
Esq., and the estimated cost being only $12,500, the legislature most magnani- 
mously admitted the reasonableness of the application, and passed Mr. G.'s 
bill, with the usual provision of a three-fifths subscription by the State. The 
canal cannot exceed a mile in length, while important advantages will accrue 
from it in the transportation to the Norfolk market of valuable timber and im- 
mense quantities of fire-wood, for steam as well as domestic purposes, here- 
tofore too remote for overland conveyance ; and it will, no doubt, lead to im- 
portant results by the extension of the traffic in those celebrated bivalves of 
the waters of Lynnhaven, so highly and universally esteemed for their incom- 
parable flavour and relish." 

A survey was made by Mr. J. Williston, a skilful engineer of Norfolk, who 
estimated the cost at $27,000, and the work, it is thought, will be indefinitely 
postponed. 



438 HISTORICAL AND 

main uninjured by the convulsions of nature, or the ravages of 
Time's noiseless hand, while thousands, and tens of thousands, 
of the busy populace of England's wondrous city, cross and re- 
cross by day and by night. 

The bridge is built over a narrow stream, that winds along 
its serpentine course northwardly about five miles, to the quiet 
and beautiful Lynnhaven, and mingles its swampy waters Avith 
those of that picturesque river, or exchanges them for the clear, 
briny fluid of the capacious Chesapeake.* 

Connected with the village of London Bridge, we remark, by 
the way, are many old reminiscences — 

" Old remembrances of days, 
When on the glittering dews of orient life, 
Shone sunshine hopes;" 

and some familiar, though unpleasant, legends, — ay ! and touch- 
ing romances in real life, — engraven too deeply upon the writer's 
mind ever to be obliterated, and to which he is somewhat inclined 
to allude here. They may not, however, justly claim the reader's 
attention now ; and yet longer let them remain, therefore, among 
the unrecorded, though well-remembered events of the past. 

Here mem'ry still is wont to dwell. 
And gather up the words that fell 
In tones of kindness, joy, and love, 
From those who now are safe above. 
Here fancy still delights to rove 
In flow'ry dell and vocal grove, 
Where oft at early morn was heard 
The varied song of the mocking-bird ; 
Where sung at night the whip-poor-will 
Among the trees "upon the hill;"* 
While softly fell the moon's pale beam, 
Reflected by that flowing stream. 



* London Bridge Creek, or Lynnhaven Creek, as it is sometimes called, has 
a shoal, or mud-flat, two or three miles beloAv the bridge. If this i^lace were 
dredged, which is quite practicable, vessels of small size could go up to the 
bridge. 

* More properly the banks of the stream; but "on the hill," "up the hill," 
"down the hill," &c., were familiar expressions, in other days, at this loca- 
lity. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 439 

The same tall pines on the old hill's verge 
Sing on their mournful funeral dirge. 
For ages yet may those old trees 
Repeat the music of the breeze ; 
Withstanding all the tempest's might, 
The light'ning's pow'r, the insects' blight, 
And lift their heads, both green and tall, 
'Till Nature's God shall bid them fall ! 

The same old spring just " down the hill," 

Now overflows and bubbles still. 

In summer morning's balmy air, 

In noontide heat, or evening fair. 

While Night's mild queen looks through the trees 

That rustle to the evening breeze. 

You still may go the cup to fill. 

From that old spring below the hill. 

With water sweet, and cool, and clear, 

That overflows and bubbles there. 

The same old stream pursues its course, 
Nor loses yet its wonted force ; 
The winding of that stream appears 
As graceful as in other years ; 
Its briny waters ebb and flow, 
And rise and fall as years ago, 
When anglers, who lie cold and still 
Beneath the sod "upon the hill," 
So often from those waters drew 
The flutt'ring perch in the old canoe. 

There yet the wild-duck feeds, and plays. 

And looks around, with cautious gaze ; 

And there she lifts her beauteous wing. 

And soars away, the timid thing. 

There stands the heron, grave and still. 

And watches long his crop to fill ; 

There yet the blackbird's soothing song 

Trembles the sedgy shore along ; 

And there the child still runs to see 

His tiny boat ride gracefully 

The rippling wave, before the breeze 

That murmurs through those green old trees. 

'Tis pleasant still on summer day, 
Down that old stream to sail away 
To old Lynnhaven's beauteous bay, 
Where wind and water hold their sway, 



440 HISTOmCAL AND 

And hear the music of the sea 
Resounding softly o'er the lea ; 
And watch the sea-gull sailing slow, 
And sailing swiftly, high and low. 
Now screaming loudly in the breeze, 
Her voice commingling with the seas ; 
Then, with a plunge, surprise her prey. 
And rise triumphant from the spray. 
'Tis charming still upon the shore, 
To hear the sea's deep, constant roar ; 
The birds, the waves, the air, the breeze, 
Harmonious join, the mind to please. 

But upon the green banks of that gracefully winding tide- 
water current, we may linger awhile, at least in imagination. 
Here we would stop and listen to the solemn, familiar music of 
the viewless breeze ; to the sudden flutter of the silvery perch, 
as it bounds in the sunshine ; to the plaintive voice, the low, 
tremulous call of the turtle-dove, " floatino; at intervals through 
the shivering foliage, the very soul of sound and tenderness ;" the 
sharp whistle of the partridge; the shrill cry of the king-fisher, 
as he darts with unerring aim upon his prey ; the soft, rich, 
and lively song of the black-bird,, as he rides, delighted, upon 
a pendulous branch by the margin, and just over the ripples 
of the flowing stream, imitable only by the high-spirited mocking- 
bird, whose notes, varied, astonishing, and unequalled, ring out 
clearly and merrily from the grove,* and the sweet carol of the 
lark "warbling upon the wind, raising its note as it soars." 

-X- « The powers of imitation of these birds have not certainly been overrated. 
When in the right humour they Avill imitate all sorts of sounds, even to the crow- 
ing of a cock. If they do not succeed well the first time, they will repeat the 
effort, always gaining in correctness, until they master the subject — some- 
times with exact truth, sometimes failing to render the notes perfectly. 

"But it is as ccmjjosers, not as imitators, that the mocking-birds most com- 
mand our admiration. There appears to be no end to their powers of combi- 
nation. There is a variety and strange contrast in their song, that would be 
sought for in vain in any of the sounds presented for their imitation. Some- 
times they will begin low down on the scale, working up the gamut, stopping 
here and there to throw off ad libitum variations, then starting again, always 
ascending and repeating the same process. Sometimes they begin at the top 
of their scale and descend in like manner. At one moment they will touch a 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 441 

" Ethereal minstrel ! pilgrim of the sky ! 
Dost thou despise the earth, where cares abound ? 
Or while thy wings aspii'e, are heart and eye 
Both with thy nest upon the dewy ground ? 
Thy nest, which thou canst drop into at will, 
Those quivering wings composed, that music still." 

"Nature, daughter of the Eternal, whatever may be the jar- 
ring of man's evil propensities, thou hast no discord — thy 

note, repeat it several times with a greater or less degree of emphasis, and 
then they will flat or sharp the same note after the same manner. 

" It would require the pen of a good musical composer to trace out in a faith- 
ful description, all the phases of their song. We have often followed out forty 
or fifty different arrangements. Within this limit (that of our memory) we 
could pronounce with certainty, that the same song had not been repeated. 
We are persuaded that there is scarcely any limit to their combination. The 
lark, doubtless, surpasses them in the gushing joyousness of his note— the 
thrush, nightingale, and perhaps other birds, in liquid sweetness. But in the 
variety and combination of notes, in compass, and flexibility, and marvellous 
facility of execution, the mocking-bird bears away the palm. Nature furnishes 
in the feathered tribe, voices of all descriptions that — 

' Warble their wood-notes wild,' 

and by way of an excusable simile, they may be said to resemble in their pecu- 
liar characters those of certain prima do/was. The mocking-bird, like the match- 
less Catalani, unites all styles, with a compass that comprehends every note, 
from the purest soprano down to the deepest contralto. The bird is aptly 
named, and its voice is wisely adjusted to its task. With sweetness alone, it 
would be unable to render its great variety of intonations. 

"Its prelude is to rise slowly with expanded wings, and sink back to the 
same spot, its head hanging downwards. Its action now corresponds with the 
varied notes of its music. If the notes are brisk and lively, it describes in the 
air a number of circles, crossing each other, or it ascends and descends in a 
spiral line. If they are loud and rapid, it, with equal briskness flaps its 
wings. Is its song unequal, it flutters, it bounds ; do its tones soften by de- 
grees, melt into tender strains, and die away, in a pause more charming than 
the sweetest muse, it gently diminishes its action, and glides smoothly above 
its resting-place." 

"I sing ! I sing! in the leafy bower, 

At the dawning blush of morn, 
When dew-drops gem each open flower, 
And another day is born. 
And my carol of joy is so light and free, 
As I sit embowered in the old oak tree. 
That the forest is full of my echoed glee." 



442 HISTORICAL AND 

realm for ever resounds with loftj melodies, -wliicli come to the 
heart, amid the battle of contending passions, like music amid 
the pauses of the storm." Here we would ramble awhile, among 
these old cedars, "moaning to the blast," and these 

" Thundering pines, 
That bend reluctant to the tempest's •wing." 

" whose branches sometimes become mighty harp-strings, which, 
smitten bj the rushing tempest, send forth grand and incessant 
harmonies, now anthems, and anon dirges." And when the 
sky is clear, and the beams of the summer morning's sun have 
banished the darkness of the night, they cast their shade over a 
sacred and secluded spot, where lie the mouldering earthly re- 
mains of some of the "loved and loving," awaiting that solemn 
day of reckoning, on which " the trumpet shall sound and the 
dead shall be raised." 

Until the ushering in of that day of days, let the music of Na- 
ture be heard in that quiet little nook; the winds their solemn 
dirges and mournful ditties sing by day and by night ; the fea- 
thered songsters of the grove, at each returning spring-time, renew 
their songs of innocence and joy; the gentle wild flowers burst 
forth and blush in beauty still. Let those old trees be spared, 
and over that spot their daily shadows throw ; and the winding 
current, with its graceful curves, continue its alternate journeys — 
passing out to the deep estuaries of old Ocean, and returning 
again ; adding another feature of interest to the scene, till the 
rapid stream of time itself shall be ultimately and irrevocably 
lost in the great ocean of eternity. 

How tenaciously do some minds cling to the recollections of 
childhood and youth ! How vividly and indelibly are the gay 
scenes of early days, long past and gone, painted upon memory's 
tablet ! Every meandering, rippling stream, and grassy hill, and 
favourite haunt of childhood's sunny hours ; old trees with their 
gnarled branches, and every winding pathway through the dense 
and shady wood, — all these are still to be seen by the mind's eye, 
as they, in their turn, come up in the imagination. We dream, 
too, of the music of the grove, the melancholy murmurs of the 
wind, and see again, as it were, the works of nature as we saw 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 443 

them in their brightness and beauty in other days, ere affliction 
and corroding care had left their blighting effects upon the heart. 
And alas ! how plainly too arc the scenes of sorrow, and the 
melancholy occurrences which occasionally darkened the bright 
prospect, pictured on the mind, never to be obliterated ! 

Restless and anxious, man may wander far from the scenes 
and friends of his youth ; but " there's no place like (his early) 
home." It is not in the power of time nor distance to sever the 
tie of fondness, or to erase the indelible marks made upon the 
young mind by the events of early life. 

"There are some persons," observes a certain Avriter, "who 
affect to disparage local attachments — that singular and almost 
inexplicable affection for a particular spot of ground — and, fore- 
most among these, is the brilliant but sophistical Bolingbroke, 
in his celebrated Reflections on Exile. But, for my part, I have 
never been able to yield to that cold-blooded, heartless, and 
palsying philosophy which would sacrifice the generous instinct 
of feeling to a beggarly calculation of a profit and loss account. 
I acknowledge the depth and sincerity of local affections." 



CHAPTER LVIII. 

Incidents of Other Days — Gentleman Waylaid — Desperate Conflict with the 
Highwaymen — The Criminals and the Death Penalty — The Old Store — Un- 
fortunate Inebriate — Notorious Josiah Phillips — Mingo — Capture and Trial 
of the Outlaw — Sentenced to the Penitentiary — Shot on the Road to Norfolk 
— Baptist Church — Preacher — Old School-house — Teaching — Public Schools 
— Martin Luther on Education — Lynnhaveu Bay, &c. — Old Eastern Shore 
Chapel— Oaks— Old School-house — Events of the Past — Schoolboy Days — 
Faithful School-master — Scholars— Variety of Talent, Occupation, &c. — Pre- 
mature Deaths — Early Associations — Great Parting Frolic. 

Before we proceed farther on our journey, we will detain the 
reader still longer, by the relation of some incidents that hap- 
pened at this place in other days. 

On a pleasant and beautiful morning, more than twenty-five 



444 HISTORICAL AND 

years ago, as the daylight entered the window of a small room 
under the moss-covered roof of a certain time-honoured farm- 
house, a stranger might have been seen, calmly and quietly re- 
posing in the embrace of " tired nature's sweet restorer." But 
there was blood upon his face, and upon the bed ! and this 
plainly revealed the fact, that wounds had been inflicted upon 
his person. The stranger was a young man of respectability, 
who had left Norfolk the evening before on a visit to the resi- 
dence of a friend, to Avitness and join in celebrating the alliance 
of one o'f Eve's fair daughters with the man of her choice. 
When nearly at the close of his pleasant journey, he passed an 
old shanty at London Bridge, where rum was sold, and his ap- 
pearance attracted the attention of two stout negro men, who, 
nerved by strong drink to desperate, dark, and bloody deeds, 
planned an attack upon him. Being of a bold and fearless dis- 
position, his only weapon was a penknife. While quietly pur- 
suing his way, the rascals approached him, and one, with a rail 
taken from a fence, struck him down from his horse. Not having 
been seriously disabled, however, by the blow, and being a man 
of much activity and strength of nerve, he was not entirely un- 
prepared for the villains, and a terrible scuffle ensued. Strange 
to say, he was not even seriously wounded, and succeeded in 
driving off the robbers, who took with them his saddle-bags, 
which contained, perhaps, but little more than a change of 
clothing. His principal misfortune was, his failure to attend 
the wedding. 

The men were arrested, convicted of the crime, sentenced to be 
hung, and were executed. The youngest (whose name was George, 
the property of an esteemed citizen of Norfolk), a valuable fel- 
low, in some respects, and rendered credulous, no doubt, by the 
effects of liquor, was a victim to the daring villany of the other. 
He finally acknowledged his participation in the deed, admitted 
the reasonableness of severe punishment, but was horror-struck 
at the sentence of death, and pleaded earnestly for his life. He 
became penitent, and before he was " swung off," appeared to 
have overcome the fear of death. 

Jim, the elder partner in the affair, several times escaped from 
confinement, but was also executed, some months after the death 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 445 

of the other. He manifested no signs of a preparation for his 
ignominious end, and was apparently ushered into eternity with- 
out the pardon of his accumulated crimes. 

These two unfortunate men lived in the immediate vicinity of 
the old grocery. They were there, and, no doubt, under the 
influence of liquor on the night of the commission of the iniqui- 
tous deed ; and perhaps the death-penalty was wisely inflicted to 
deter others from such daring attempts upon life and property, 
as it appeared to have a salutary influence upon the coloured 
population of the county. 

We shall briefly allude to another circumstance, which we can 
never forget, and which deeply impressed our mind with the 
dangerous consequences often attending the use of intoxicating 
liquors. 

" It was an eve of autumn's holiest mood, 
And all the •winds slept soundly — 

Now and then the aged leaf 
Fell from its fellows, rustling to the ground. 
And as it fell, bade man think on his end." 

All was still — scarcely a sound arose to break the deep silence 
which reigned around, save perhaps the low melancholy mur- 
muring of distant thunder, announcing the approach of a gather- 
ing 3torm-cloud in the west. Suddenly, however, the " loud 
ascending" voice of an unfortunate inebriate was heard in the 
distance, and then it grew louder, and as he came nearer, the 
wild scream, at the highest pitch of his voice, resounded in every 
direction, while the rapid tramp of the horse on which he rode, 
but too plainly told the danger of his situation. 

On the bridge above named, his horse fell, while running, and 
the wild screech of agony which immediately succeeded the roar 
of revelry, was caused by the breaking and mangling of one of 
his limbs in a frightful manner. 

We could present the reader with many particulars relative 
to the notorious and outrageous Josiah Phillips, and his ban- 
ditti, whose depredations on life and property spread terror and 
consternation in some parts of Norfolk and Princess Anne Coun- 
ties, in Revolutionary times ; and to the murderous Mingo, of a 



446 HISTOKICAL AND 

later period, a free negro, who, after the commission of many a 
heinous crime and deed of blood, and after eluding for many 
months the vigilance of his pursuers, was finally surprised and 
taken in his bed at night, while asleep (his gun within his 
reach), imprisoned, convicted, and sentenced — to the peniten- 
tiary ! Of course, the people of Princess Anne were dissatis- 
fied with this astonishing result of his trial, produced by the 
wonderful power of forensic eloquence. A well-devised and suc- 
cessful plan was promptly formed to shoot him on the road, 
while being conveyed to Norfolk for transportation to the State 
Prison at Richmond ; and the soul of the hardened criminal was 
accordingly hurried into eternity, probably without a moment's 
warning, and his body unceremoniously deposited in a hole 
hastily dug by the roadside, about seven miles from the city. 
And we could tell of other unpleasant and dreadful occurrences, 
that might interest the minds of some, but we forbear. 

Leaving the bridge, and passing on in a northeasterly direc- 
tion, about the space of an eighth of a mile, we arrive at the 
London Bridge Baptist Church, in its pleasant location on the 
west side of the road, in which has been delivered many an elo- 
quent and faithful sermon, and with which is pleasingly asso- 
ciated, among others, the name of the intelligent and modest 
Smith Sherwood; for several years its devoted pastor, prior to 
1830. This church (which is situated with the side instead of 
the end towards the road) has recently been put in good order, 
by its members, who have the religious ascendency in this part 
of the county. 

Here, too, is the contracted and now dilapidated and deserted 
old school-house, in which many have learned, by sad and painful 
experience, the difi"erence between two governing principles in 
school-teaching, viz. : the fear of the rod, and patient instruc- 
tion encouraged by kind words and mild reproof — except in ob- 
stinate cases. 

We should not fail to remark, that one of the most gratifying 
and encouraging sights to be seen, in passing through this coun- 
try, is the numerous public school-houses that are dispersed 
throughout its length and breadth. The common school system, 
which was but recently put in operation here, met with conside- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 447 

rable opposition by the voters ; but it is now considered as per- 
manently established. How sure it is that it will work to the 
incalculable advantage of almost every interest of the commu- 
nity ; — and how certain that a much more pleasing state of af- 
fairs would now be presented, had these free schools been intro- 
duced fifty years ago ! 

A judicious system of public schools has also been introduced 
in Norfolk County, including Portsmouth. There has been much 
talk and newspaper discussion on the subject of establishing them 
in the City of Norfolk. But all to no effect, as yet. 

"The prosperity of a town," said Martin Luther, addressing 
the magistrates of Wittemberg, on the subject of education, 
" does not consist in amassing wealth, erecting walls, building 
mansions, and the possession of arms. If attacked by a party 
of madmen, its ruin and devastation would only be the more 
terrible. The true well-being of a town — its security, its strength 
— is to number within it many learned, serious, kind, and well- 
educated citizens." 

Proceeding a short distance farther, we may wheel off to the 
left, taking the route that leads to Lynnhaven Bay and River 
so long and justly celebrated for superior fish, oysters, and wild- 
fowl ; and Broad Bay, Linkhorn Bay, Long Creek, the Desert, 
&c. ; or, from London Bridge, we may take a northerly and east- 
erly course, passing the old chapel two miles below, with its 
thick walls, sharp roof, arched windows and doors ; and its fit 
companions in age, those gigantic oaks, standing in their pride, 
lifting their tall heads high in air, and reaching out their long 
and green-clad arms afar, as if to guard the old structure from 
desecration. 

The old school-house has long since disappeared ; but could 
those old trees relate the events of the past, now fading fast 
away in the dim distance, but still occuj)ying their place on 
memory's altar,^ and preserving their identity among the rest in 
the unfathomed depths of eternity's great ocean, they might tell of 

" Childish games and school-boy feats, 
And youth's gay sports, and earnest vows of love, 
Uttered when passion's boisterous tide ran high ; 
Sincerely uttered, though but seldom kept." 



448 HISTORICAL AND 

And of tlie diligent instructions, strict discipline, kind persua- 
sion, ay, and severe corrections, too, of a well-known man of 
books,* who had been there — the critic, the scholar, who lives 
to see some of those who feared him, but who, perhaps, rarely 
hated him, engaged in the grave and complicated pursuits of 
manhood. 

But where are they all ? — where iioio are those who were then 
gay and light-hearted school-boys and school-girls, elated with 
the brightest hopes of the future ? Some of them, but very 
few reside in Norfolk ; others remain still amid the rural 
charms of their native county ; others are in distant lands ; some 
are careering upon the surging billows of old Ocean, and battling 
manfully with the wild fury of the howling storm-spirit, to sus- 
tain our national honour or to enrich our shores. Their chosen 
vocations in life were various, as were their talents and disposi- 
tions. Some have been, and still are, prosperous and happy — 
others unsuccessful and unhappy. The roseate blush upon the 
full cheek of beauty has faded ; the vivacity of youth has given 
place to the gravity of manhood. Many have passed away. The 
ungentle winds of misfortune blew upon some, and, unable to 
contend long with their blighting influences, they withered and 
fell. Of the number, some of the strongest have fallen — early 
and prematurely fallen — beneath the stroke of death, and have 
long slumbered in the silence of the grave. The minds of those 
who now live, and whose eyes may trace these lines, will be in- 
voluntarily and irresistibly carried back to the sunny days of 
youth, and how many associations will be recalled ! They need 
not to be reminded of a thousand interesting occurrences, among 
which was the last meeting we all had with that eccentric 
teacher; that great feast, which he provided for his scholars; 
the sports, the games, the revelling, the noise, the waste of gun- 
powder, devouring of turkeys, fruit, sweetmeats, and cakes ; in 
short, that great parting frolic at the old Eastern Shore Semi- 
nary. 

* William Roberts, Esq., formerly an accomplished instructor of youth ; sub- 
sequently representative from Princess Anne County in the General Assembly, 
and now a magistrate and skilful farmer of said county. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 449 



CHAPTER LIX. 

The Ocean Shore — Sublime Scene — The Music of the Sea — The Minoi* Key — 
Miserere — The Sea in a Calm — Its Power and Immensity — The Ocean in a 
Storm — The Mountain Waves — Spirits of the Deep Riding on the Billows and 
Howling in the Foam — The Sea Personified — Mariners — Dangers — Perils of 
Ocean — The View from the Land — Sublimity of the Scenery — A Ship at Sea 
— Becalmed — A Storm-cloud Rises — Wind and Ocean at War — The Ship and 
Passengers in Danger — The Ship Engulphed — The Calm — Height, Velocity, 
and Force of the Waves — Distance from Each Other — Irresistible Strength — 
Influence of the Sight — Beautiful Extract — The Sandy and Wave-beaten 
Shore — Reflection of the Light — Sun and Moon — Fiery, Sparkling Gems — 
Mountain Scenery — The Boundless Deep. 

We will travel on, now, to the shore of the blue and boundless 
ocean, of which, how grand, how truly sublime, how extensive is 
the scene ! Leaving the main road, and passing below the wooded 
lands, the wide, immense, and almost immeasurable expanse of 
the ever-rolling waters, with the beauteous azure vault reaching 
down and embracing the troubled surface of the deep, fills the 
soul with wonder and admiration. 

" It is the sea, it is the sea. 
In all its vague immensity. 

Fading and darkening in the distance ! 
Silent, majestical, and slow, 
The white ships haunt it to and fro, 
With all their ghostly sails unfurled ; 
As phantoms from another world 

Haunt the dim confines of existence !" 

You pass down a gentle declivity, crossing a narrow tract 
of loose, coarse sand ; and as you approach the agitated waters 
that roar and roll before you, stretching far, far away, and hear 
the music of the waves, and the shrill cry of the sea-bird as she 
"stoops to lave her -wing in the cooling flood," the mind be- 
comes wholly occupied with the extent, grandeur, and beauty 
of the scene. Descending below "high water mark," and stand- 
ing upon the sandy surface, beaten hard and smooth by the bil- 
lows, the beholder looks out with straining eyes, "far as sight can 

29 



450 HISTORICAL AND 

pierce ;" the heart beats with emotion, and a strange, overpower- 
ing, indescribable feeling comes over the soul. 

" Great Ocean ! strongest of creation's sons, 
Unconquerable, unreposed, untired, 
That roU'dst the wild, profound, eternal bass. 
In nature's anthem, and made music, such 
As pleased the ear of God!" 

Who can listen without interest to the loud, rumbling noise of 
the surges as they roll along in their power, and lash the sandy 
shore ! At a distance it is a murmuring, broken, half-melancholy 
sound. 

" Lonely and wildly it rose. 
That strain of solemn music from the sea. 
As though the night air trembled to disclose 
An ocean mystery. 
Once more the gush of sound, 
Struggling and swelling from the heaving plain. 
Thrilled a rich peal triumphantly around, 
And fled again." 

Upon the beach it is a loud, continuous roar, and " sometimes the 
waves of the ocean respond, like Avhite-robed choristers, to the 
thunder bass of the sky, and so make creation's grand oratorio." 

" Shout to the Lord, ye surging seas, 
In your eternal roar ; 
Let wave to wave resound his praise, 
And shore reply to shore !" 

" The noise of the waves is in the minor key, plaintive, sad. 
This is creation itself, giving proof of the Apostle's assertion, 'AH 
creation groaneth and travaileth in pain together.' She feels 
that the curse is on her, cold and heavy on her heart; and long- 
ing for deliverance, she gives utterance to her ceaseless, deep, 
and heart-rending miserere. And she will continue to do so until 
the Lord bid her assume the major key, and himself give the key- 
note ; and then the spheres above, and the redeemed hearts and 
retuned voices will raise everlasting hallelujahs." 

"Perhaps," says a brilliant writer, "we have seen the sea re- 
posing in calmness. Its ample extent and glassy smoothness, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 451 

seeming almost to rival the sky expanded above it ; its depth to 
us unknown; the thought that we stand near a gulf, capable 
in one hour of extinguishing all human life — and the thouglit 
that this vast body, now so peaceful, can move, can act with a 
force e(][ual to its magnitude — inspires a sublime sentiment. Per- 
haps we have seen it in tempest, moving with a host of mountains 
to assault the eternal barrier which confines its power. If there 
Avere, in reality, spirits of the deep, it might suit them well to 
ride on these ridges, or howl in this raging foam. We have seen 
the fury of little beings ; but how insignificant in comparison of 
what we now behold — the world in a rage ! Indeed, we could 
almost imagine that the great w^orld is endowed with a soul, and 
that these commotions express the agitations of its passions. 
Undoubtedly, to mariners, hazarded far off in the midst of such a 
scene, the sublimity is lost in danger. Horror is the sentiment 
with which they survey the vast flood, rolling in hideous steeps, 
and gulfs, and surges ; wdiile, at a distance, on the gloomy limit 
of the view, Despair is seen to stand, summoning forward still new 
billows without end. But to a spectator on the land, the influ- 
ence which breathes powerfully from the scene, and which con- 
sciousness of danger would darken into horror, is illuminated into 
awful sublimity by the perfect security of his situation." 

"In the dim distance," says another, "we see an 'oak levia- 
than,' the production of that genius which is the distinguishing 
characteristic of the human mind, floating in pride of streno-th 
upon the bosom of the deep. Ay, there she is, a huge, though 
not unwieldy mass ; a giantess of the waters, daring, as it were, 

'The elements to the strife.' 

She is becalmed ; her white wings hang heavily upon the bur- 
dened mast, and the pilot, anxious once more to greet the in- 
mates of his happy home, is impatient of delay. The merry 
voice of the jolly sailor ' trembles along the bosom of the sleep- 
ing wave.' Anon a ' spirit moves upon the face of the waters,' 
and a speck, just emerging from under the horizon, now no 
larger than a man's hand, spreads, as it travels towards the 
zenith, and soon overshadows the 'blue above,' while the 'blue 



452 HISTORICAL AND 

below' mirrors its blackness. The God of the universe exhibits 
his power and his presence ; and wind and ocean, by an unseen 
hand, are arrayed, each against the other, and contend, like in- 
furiated demons, for the mastery. That monument of man's im- 
mortal mind, driven rapidly before the tempest's breath, can illy 
breast ' the war of elements,' and on she whirls to certain perdi- 
tion ; onward, onward she is borne ; though 

' The strained mast quivers as a reed, 
And the rent canvass fluttering strews the gale, 
Still she moves on.' 

The moment of destruction is at hand ; — hark ! the timbers 
creak, and part ; and now, high above the voice of the winds and 
the hoarse growl of the fretted billows, the wild shrieks of de- 
spair burst from the lips of the hopeless, helpless beings who 
throng the deck of the sinking bark ; — another instant, and the 
echo of that deafening and agonizing shout has died upon the 
ear of the listener ; — the sea yawns, and the floating castle is 
engulphed like a piece of driftwood in its vortex, and man and 
his work, are alike 

' In one vast burial blent.' 

The puissant arm of the Most High is here, but nature's great 
Creator subjects to his will the Avorkmanship of his hands ; and 
scarcely have the ill-fated voyagers upon the great deep been 
launched into eternity, than He who commands all things whis- 
pers, 'Peace, be still;' — the dire combat is at an end, the con- 
flict of the elements ceases, the mountain waves of the lashed 
ocean subside, and the hoarse bellowing of the rude north wind, 
dies away into a gentle murmur ;— all nature seems hushed in 
repose. ' What manner of man is this, that even the winds and 
the seas do obey him ?' " 

" Anon thou smooth'st thy brow, and with a song 
Of mournful sweetness murmurest through thy caves ; 
Or with soft music, and the kiss of peace, 
Greetest the sunny shore, and brightly smil'st. 
Organ of nature ! whence thy ceaseless roll ?" 



DESCRIPTIVE S KETCHES. 453 

The mean height of the highest waves in a storm, is about 
forty-three feet above the level of the hollow. After a storm of 
thirty-six hours' duration, they liave been known to average 
thirty feet, from ridge to hollow. When they meet with an im- 
movable perpendicular obstruction, they sometimes rise in im- 
mense masses of water, to tlie height of one Jmndred and six feet 
above the level of the sea ! They travel with astonishing velo- 
city, propagating their motion at the rate of thirty or forty miles 
per hour, and exerting a force equal to three tons per square 
foot ! Five hundred and fifty-nine feet is the probable mean 
distance of the waves from each other, or from crest to crest. 
" The water does not advance with the wave, but the form only 
— the water rising and falling in the same place, except at the 
beach, where it becomes really progressive, because it cannot 
sink, and therefore falls over forward." 

" When we see a column of water, at least thirty feet in height, 
advancing with the speed of a railroad train, we can readily 
imagine that its force is almost irresistible. 

* »: t- Hi * * * 

" These results are astonishing ; and it is no wonder that in the 
encounter with such a force, the largest ships are but toys, and 
wood and iron almost as fragile as glass. Nothing but stone can 
be expected to resist such a force, and that must be as firmly 
fastened as the ledges on which the waves spend their fury. 
' Hitherto shalt thou come, but no farther : and here shall thy 
proud waves be stayed.' " 

Reader, have you ever stood upon the ocean shore, and 
looked out freely upon that broad and heaving bosom ; and as 
you gazed, and wondered, and admired, felt how insignificant is 
man and how inconceivably poAverful his Maker ? Surely it 
must be, to all who can feel, a most exciting and inspiring scene. 
The feeling of solemnity and awe which it produces cannot be 
described. Every one is more or less moved, on beholding this 
mighty creation of God. Some are humbled, and feel like fall- 
ing low upon the sand, and adoring llim who "rulest the raging 
of the sea ;" some appear lost in wonder at the stupendous scene; 
while others are highly excited, and are ready to shout aloud, 
like a distinguished female author, who says : 



454 HISTORICAL AND 

" How happy I was to behold the beautiful sea once more ; to 
be once more wondering at and worshipping the grandeur and 
loveliness of this greatest of God's marvellous works ! How I 
do love the sea ! My very soul seems to gather energy and life 
and light, from its power, its vastness, its bold, bright beauty ; 
its fresh, invigorating airs ; its glorious, triumphant, rushing 
sound. The thin, rippling waves came like silver leaves, spread- 
ing themselves over the glittering sand with just a little, spark- 
ling, pearly edge. 

^ ^ ^ :^ ^ ^ ^< 

" Close along the shore, the water was of that pale, transpa- 
rent green colour, that blends so delicately with the horizon, 
sometimes, at sunset ; but out beyond, towards the great deep, 
it wore that serene and holiest blue that surrounds one in mid- 
ocean, when the earth is nearly as far below as the heaven seems 
high above us. 

" For a short time my spirits seemed like uncaged birds ; I 
rejoiced with all my might ; I could have shouted aloud for de- 
light ; I galloped far along the sand, as close into the water's 
restless edge as my horse would bear to go. But the excitement 
died away, and then came vividly back the time when last I 
stood upon the sea-beach at Cramond, and lost myself in listen- 
ing to that delicious sound of the chiming of waters." 

It is pleasant to chase the retiring wave, and gather the va- 
riegated shells and pebbles thrown up from the fathomless 
depths. But to look upon those surges, long and high, rolling 
gracefully and majestically in from the distance to the shore, 
spreading their foam, and spending their power there, is well 
calculated to make a deep and lasting impression upon the re- 
flecting mind. And to behold the cloudless sun or full-orbed 
moon, rise, as it were, from that vast watery bed ; and the 
glittering spangles of every hue scattered far away upon the 
ocean's agitated bosom, is also a highly interesting sight — "like 
an infinite multitude of little fiery gems, moving and sparkling 
through endless confusion ; or like brilliant insects, sporting — 
all intermingled, and never tired or reposing — the most vivid 
frisks." 

They who have had the pleasure of seeing the grand and 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 455 

splendid scenery of Harper's Ferry ; who have seen the craggy, 
fro^Ynincr cliffs near Cumberland ; and from Laurel Hill and vici- 
nity, have been favoured with a view of the magnificent scenery, 
thrown around by nature's hand in every direction, rolling, tow- 
ering, diversified, and beautiful as it is ; who have gazed with 
delight, far over those mountain barriers, upon many a charm- 
ing, winding stream, and sparkling, murmuring waterfall ; many 
a wide and wildly-rushing river, — acknowledge that they have 
never witnessed any work of the Creator which has excited so 
many thrilling sensations, as the boundless, fathomless deep. 

"Dash on, ye ever restless waves; 
Roll on, thou mighty seal" 



CHAPTER LX. 

Chesapeake Bay — Its Beauty — Discovery — Opinion of Mariners — Delightful 
Trip — Night Scene — Lynnhaven Bay — Lynnhaven Eiver — Fish and Oysters 
—The Inlet— The Channel— The Tides— Bottom— Singular Tradition— The 
River of Chesapeake — Pleasure House Creek — Adam Keeling, Esq. — Dike — 
New Inlet — Branches of the River — London Bridge — Trading Point— Kemps- 
ville — Long Creek — Broad Baj' — Linkhorn Bay^Fish — Beautiful Scenery — 
Transparent Waters — The Desert and its Inhabitants— Old Fort — Re- 
markable Changes — Church Point — Parish Church Submerged — Grave- 
Yard — Reflections — The Grave-stones — Name Deciphered — Inroads of the 
Water — Probable Causes — The AVinds and Tides — Donation Church — Par- 
son Dixon's Donation — His Eccentricities — The Old Church Dilapidated — ■ 
Ladies' Fair — Remarks of Mr. Broughton — Rev. Anthony AValke — Dick 
Edwards — The Old Cemetery, &c. — Baptismal Font — Silver Goblet — A 
Venerable Trio — ^Indian Mound or Fort — Blackbeard's Treasures — Witch 
Duck — Complaint of Luke Hill and Wife — Grace Sherwood, the Witch — 
Searched by a Jury of Women — Strange Verdict — ^Poor Grace Ducked — Sub- 
sequent Difficulties — Graceless Aifair — The Name Lynnhaven. 

Chesapeake Bay,* of which the reader has already observed 
occasional remarks, is considered by travellers to be among the 

* Chesapeake is said to be derived from the Indian, signifying Mother of 
Waters, the parent or reservoir of all the great rivers emptying within it. — 

Steth. 



456 HISTORICAL AND 

most beautiful and interesting collections of '\\'ater in the world. 
"It was discovered by some of the first colonists of the island of 
Roanoke, and Raleigh had enjoined it upon one of his own ex- 
peditions to settle within its shores ; and it is not improbable 
that the ships of some of the early voyagers may have ploughed 
its waters." 

The following extract will serve very well to convey to the 
mind of those who have not seen this bay, an idea of its magni- 
ficence: 

" The trip from Baltimore down the Chesapeake, in the fine 
steamer Georgia, was a delightful one. I have often heard old 
sea-captains, who have traversed almost every known sea, lake, 
bay, and river in the world, speak in the most exalted terms of 
the noble Chesapeake. As a bay, it has no equal, not even in 
that of Naples, all things considered. I know of no more de- 
lightful trip, especially in the summer season. Mine, on this 
last occasion, was particularly so. I emerged from the confines 
of a hot, murky city, and was soon out upon the broad blue 
waters, with an exquisite breeze, which came up Avith invigorat- 
ing freshness from the silver waves. Night came on, and her 
azure curtain, gemmed with myriad stars, was drawn over the 
expanse above. A little while longer, and the pale moon, Avith 
her full round modest face, peered up the eastern horizon. She 
looked like a sylvan queen gently blushing to take the place of 
her lord and master, who had just sunk from his majestic career 
behind a golden halo. 

"A scene on the Chesapeake, thus changing from noonday 
to gray eve, thence to dim twilight, and deepening into the soft 
azure of a summer's night, is truly inspiring alike to the poet 
and painter, as well as invigorating to health, and renovating to 
the finer feelings of sentimentality and romance." 

Lynnhaven Bay is a portion of the Chesapeake, at its southern 
extremity, and lies between Cape Henry and a point at Little 
Creek Inlet. The Avaters of the Chesapeake here make a grace- 
ful curve into the land; and the view, to the north especially, is 
extensive, and very beautiful. 

Lynnhaven River is, also, a truly beautiful collection of water, 
Avhich extends into Princess Anne County from the bay. It has 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 457 

long been celebrated for the finest fish, especially the hog-fish, 
sheep's-head, spot, trout, &c. As for Lynnhavcn oysters, their 
celebrity has extended throughout the Union, and probably 
reached the Eastern Continent. 

The present inlet to Lynnhaven is of modern origin, as we 
shall presently show. It is now very shallow ; indeed, there is a 
sandbar across the entrance, which affords at high tide only 
about four and a half feet of water, excepting a channel some 
ten or fifteen feet wide, and from about four to six feet deep. 
At low tide, the inlet is only knee deep, excepting the narrow 
channel ; and its transparent waters arc of course forded with 
great facility. The channel, inside of the bar, varies from twelve 
to twenty feet in depth; in some places it is very narrow, and 
the ebb and flow of the tides therein are rapid, probably from 
four to six knots per hour. And it is quite worthy of remark, 
that the egress or ingress of the tides is in some places 
scarcely perceptible outside of this narrow channel, the water on 
either side being sometimes comparatively still and very clear 
and smooth during the ebb and flow of the tides, presenting, we 
should think, an appearance similar to that occasioned by the 
passage of the waters of the River Jordan through the middle of 
the Sea of Galilee, if the accounts of a certain traveller relative 
thereto be correct. 

The bottom of Lynnhaven River is, for the most part, com- 
posed of loose brownish sand, which is constantly moved about 
by the force of the tides. 

We have heard strange traditionary statements about Lynn- 
haven River, some of which are very absurd, and would be found 
difficult to substantiate. It has been said that this beautiful 
stream is of comparatively modern origin ; that persons now liv- 
ing, probably knew the individual, who, by having a ditch or 
drain cut through his lands, caused the existence of this deep 
and clear river, or a large portion thereof; that the water flow- 
ing rapidly through this dike gradually wore it away to a deep 
and ample river-bed ! This is, of course, all a mistake, a simple 
impossibility. It is sufficiently evident, that the River of 
Chesapeake, or as it is now called, Lynnhaven River, existed 
when the country was discovered. We will mention a circum- 



458 HISTORICAL AND 

stance, however, whence doubtless originated the tradition about 
the ditch. 

Until about the period of the Revolutionary war, the inlet to 
the waters of Lynnhaven, was the Pleasure House Creek, run- 
ning in from the bay at the site of a building known as the Old 
Pleasure House,* about two miles Avest of the present inlet. 
Adam Keeling, Esq., one of the former and most respected resi- 
dents of that beautiful section of Princess Anne, situated on 
Lynnhaven River, desiring a shorter connexion by water with 
the Chesapeake than that afforded by the creek, which from his 
section was a very circuitous route, caused a dike to be cut across, 
from the two nearest or most convenient points on the neighbour- 
ing shores of the river and the bay. This proved greatly to his 
advantage and convenience in fishing on the bay shore. Another 
object in opening this canal, was the more readily to secure his 
fishing-boats, &c., from the incursions of the enemy. The water 
running rapidly out at ebb tide, and in at flood tide, through this 
narrow dike, it was soon enlarged. The current gradually under- 
mined the trees, and cleared away the sand, the under-growth, 
and all obstructions, until a wide channel was formed, now known 
as the Lynnhaven Inlet — the other entrance having been long 
since closed, in consequence of the opening of this artificial pas- 
sage which is the only inlet or outlet for the waters of the 
river and its tributaries. 

Lynnhaven River has several branches, one of which we 
have already alluded to, and which has its source some three 
or four miles above London Bridge, which bridge is about five 
miles above the mouth of the creek. Another branch takes its 
course towards Trading Point, in the direction of Kempsville ; 
and the third is Long Creek, a deep, blue, and beautiful stream, 
which glides rapidly along upon its sandy bed, and unites Lynn- 
haven with Broad Bay ; thence it takes its course on to Link- 
horn Bay ; also very handsome collections of water. These 
reservoirs, as well as the Lynnhaven, abound with the finest fish, 
oysters, and wild fowl. 

It would well repay a trip from afar to view the scenery of this 

* Foi-merly a popular place of entertainment, belonging to a gentleman 
named Nimmo. It was burned by the British in the last war. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 459 

locality. The Avatcrs are very clear and salt, having the deep 
greenish colour of the ocean, on account of their proximity to 
Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic. The view from some points 
is extensive, and very interesting ; but more remarkable for 
serenity and openness, than for abruptness or wildncss ; although 
the scenery is in some places varied by the rugged and sterile 
appearance of the sandhills of the Desert. This occupies a con- 
siderable tract of country, and abounds with deer, foxes, bears, 
wild hogs, wild cats, raccoons, snakes, &c. 

An old sand fort was accidentally discovered some years ago 
upon the banks of Lynnhaven River, by a venerable gentleman 
of this city, while on a fox-chase. It appears that it had been 
thrown up and used to prevent the entrance of hostile parties 
into a creek, which has since been filled up with sand. 

Remarkable changes are exhibited along the banks of this 
beautiful river, the water having made inroads upon the land on 
the west shore, and retreated from that on the opposite. This 
is perceptible in a remarkable degree at Church Point, the site 
of the old Parish Church and graveyard. The old church has 
long since fallen to ruins ; indeed, no vestige remains to mark the 
identical spot which it occupied ; and strange to say, the old grave- 
yard has also disappeared ! The remains of those who were 
interred there, now lie low beneath the sandy bed of the river ; 
and over the stones which mark many " a couch of lowly sleep," 
rolls on the cool, clear flood of the Lynnhaven ; and when the 
Archangel's trump shall give out its pealing sound, those who 
were buried in the bosom of the earth, under the green sod upon 
the river-bank, will come forth from the waters. How deeply, 
how strangely, how securely buried ! The green sea-weed may 
grow rankly there, and entwine around those old gravestones, 
and the finny tribes may come up from the bay and the ocean 
with each flowing tide, and hold their pastimes over those graves 
and among those stones ; the shrill cry of the seagull is heard 
there ; and flocks of playful wild fowl feed and flap their light 
wings upon the smooth cool surface of the river, but no 

" living statues there are seen to Tveep ;" 



and most truly, indeed, may it be said, too : 



460 HISTORICAL AND 

" AfSictions semblance bends not o'er (the) tomb." 

A tall man may wade out to this submerged burial-place, and 
feel with his feet (the water up to his chin), the gravestones and 
their inscriptions. 

An eminent resident of our city has done this, and even deci- 
phered one of the names of the dead, whose remains were there 
interred. The name is Pallctt, and is that of some of the old 
and formerly well-known inhabitants of Princess Anne. 

And now a question may very naturally be raised, with regard 
to the cause of this apparent advance or rise of the water upon 
the land, and beyond its former mark. Has the water risen, or 
the land sunk ? The writer is, perhaps, unprepared to answer 
satisfactorily, either to the reader or to himself. We will say, 
however, that as the graveyard was upon the shore most affected 
by the action of the waves, during the prevalence of the north- 
east and east winds of the coast, the banks of the river may have 
been thereby displaced. The action of high tides has probably 
had a similar effect. The accumulation of sand, on the opposite 
shore, has also been very great, and is indeed very remarkable.* 
Besides, the inlet from the bay, in addition to being more 
shallow, is also said to be narrower, now, than it was man}'' 
years ago, probably on account of the rapid accumulation of 
sand displaced by the winds and waves ; and it has, therefore, 
become too small for the entire reflux of the tides, as formerly. 
The consequence is, the waters of the bay commence to rise some 
time before those of the river have fallen to the level of the for- 
mer. The bay soon rises, however, above the level of the latter, 
and forces its waters rapidly through the inlet, thus prematurely 
causing, of course, what is called flood tide in the river. This 
may be, in some way, connected with the changes which are 
apparent along the banks of the river. 

After the original parish church, at the Point, became dilapi- 
dated and useless, or was destroyed, a site was chosen about 
three-quarters of a mile from the former, and another church 

"" In some places the lowlands, formerly vei-y valuable for grazing, have been 
covered with sand, and rendered useless for this purpose. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 461 

was erected. The location is on the road leading to the Bay- 
Shore, and three or four miles from Kempsville. This church 
accidentally took fire, and was consumed; after Avhich (1735) 
another was built, a few rods distant therefrom, and is now 
known as the Old Donation Church, so called on account of the 
donation of a farm, in its vicinity, from Rev. Robert Dixon, one 
of its pastors, for the education of eight children. This farm is 
also known as the " Donation." 

Parson Dixon, by the way, was an eccentric, and, in some re- 
spects, a remarkable man. lie required a rigid compliance with 
the rules of the church; and, in order to make the members 
punctual in their attendance, he adopted the plan of fining all 
the absentees. He taught a school at the church, and was ex- 
ceedingly strict ; so much so, that he was a perfect terror to his 
pupils. 

The Old Donation was suffered to become sadly dilapidated, 
after the erection of the Episcopal Church at Kempsville. Sa- 
crilegious hands stole the bricks with which the aisle was paved, 
tore away a portion of the pews, demolished the window-lights, 
&c. ; and the bats and owls took up their abode there. The fair 
daughters of Princess Anne made a commendable and successful 
efi'ort, at the Agricultural Fair held at Kempsville in November, 
1852, to raise funds to repair this ancient church. 

"About the year 1815," says Mr. Broughton, "after having 
remained a long time neglected, and serving as a shelter for the 
beasts of the field, it was repaired, and again opened for public 
worship, when it received the name of the ' Donation Church,' 
as a tribute to the memory of its venerable pastor, Rev. Robert 
Dixon, who, dying about the period of the breaking out of the 
Revolution, bequeathed his beautiful farm, about a mile from the 
church on the Kempsville Road, to the county, as a donation, 
the income from which was to be appropriated to the education 
of a certain number of poor orphan boys. This farm was called 
the ' Donation' to the present time. Originally the church was 
designated as the ' Lynnhaven Parish Church,' but, after the 
Revolution, it more generally went by the simple appellation of 
the Old Brick Church. 



4G2 HISTORICAL AND 

" The church, however, after being repaired was only occupied 
for a few years, when it was left uncared for, and doomed once 
more to decay and ruin ; from which condition a benevolent 
spirit is now making an effort to rescue it. 

"More than half a century ago, the Rev. Anthony Walks 
ministered the Word of Life in this venerable sanctuary, ac- 
cording to the forms of the Episcopal Church ; and some of the 
aged inhabitants, who were of his congregation, still remember 
his mild, clear voice, and solemnity of manner in reading the 
church service. They remember, too, the grave and important 
air, with which good old Mr. Dick Edwards, the parish clerk, 
uttered the responses and pronounced the amens. Mr. E. was 
a man of many callings, among which was that of auctioneer, 
and his style of crying at sales was inimitable. And they re- 
member, also, the decent and orderly demeanour of the congre- 
gation, in their best Sabbath-day attire. Even then there was 
a recognised distinction of social rank, and the rich style of the 
gentry, or quality, claimed priority of the humbler class in de- 
cent homespun, which was tacitly conceded. All were impressed 
alike, however, with the duty of attendance upon the Sabbath 
appointments of Divine worship in the good old parish church." 

"Time," says another, "has been busy with his ravages on 
the church and cemetery. A few trees only remain to mark the 
spot where the dead repose, and the winds sighing through their 
branches, sing their only requiem ! 

' Far from the madd'ning crowd's ignoble strife 
Their sober wishes never learned to stray ; — 
Along the cool, sequestered vale of life, 
They kept the noiseless tenor of their way.' 

"Not a family in this section but has a relative or friend resting 
here. The great, the proud, the humble and lowly, all have met 
here on terms of equality. It is strange, indeed, that such a 
spot should be thus neglected, and the venerable church allowed 
to come almost to ruin. To our mind (and we are not proof 
against woman's eloquence), its antique appearance, its historic 
interest and associations, plead with an eloquence which, though 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 463 

mute, is not less irresistible than that of the ladies engaged in 
its behalf. 

' Old plains have a charm for me 
That new can ne'er attain.' 

" We hope to see the ravages of old Time stayed, the vene- 
rable church and cemetery adorned and beautified, its ancient 
walls, and the surrounding wood, made vocal with the ' pealing 
anthem' and the 'note of praise.' " 

The old parish font, or baptismal-vessel, belonging to this 
church, is also a remarkable relic. Hundreds of the good people 
of the county have stood before its ample basin, to receive the 
holy sacrament of baptism. This, and a large silver goblet for 
the communion service, or sacrament of the Lord's Supper, were 
presented by Colonel Maximilian Boush, an estimable gentleman 
of Princess Anne County, some of whose descendants are now 
highly respectable residents of this city. 

The Donation Church, Eastern Shore Chapel, and Pungo 
Chapel, as they arc called, form a trio of venerable old relics of 
antiquity ; and thousands of the dead and the living have assem- 
bled to worship within their solid, though ancient, walls, and to 
kneel at their altars. It is hoped they may all be hereafter kept 
in good order, and supplied with faithful pastors, to dispense the 
lifegiving word of truth to those of the present generation, and 
of others yet to come. 

There is, in the vicinity of the site of the old Pleasure House, a 
large and remarkable mound, supposed by some to have been 
thrown up there by the Indians. It may contain numerous relics of 
the tawny inhabitants of the woods, whose wigwams were erected, 
and whose blazing fires were built for their revelry and pastimes 
along the beautiful shores of the Lynnhaven. It is now only thirty 
or forty feet high, and about one hundred and fifty feet long. Within 
the recollection of some of the old residents, it was very consider- 
ably above that elevation ; some say it was more than one hundred 
feet in height. The origin of this mound, or, more properly, this 
old fortification, is involved in mystery. There is some reason to 
doubt that it was the work of the red men ; but when, or by whom 



464 HISTORICAL AND 

erected, who can tell ? Its appearance is at once singular, novel, 
and astonishing. There it stands in its loneliness and grandeur, 
deserted and useless, rising majestically from its moat, far above 
the adjacent lands, bearing upon its ridges and slopes old oaks 
and other noble forest trees that have braved, unbroken, the 
storms of several hundred winters. Who tells its origin — who 
knows its design — who can describe the men that were garrisoned 
there ? Time has swept them away, as well as the remembrance 
of the object of their fortress, as also all possible necessity there- 
for. It extends across a narrow point, forming one side of a 
triangle, that was formerly surrounded by deep water. Who 
can declare that this was not one of the places of retreat and 
defence of Blackboard, the notorious brigand and pirate, and 
his fearful gang of hardened, bloodthirsty freebooters, with their 
treasures of gold, jewelry, precious stones, and untold wealth ? 
Should this old rampart be excavated and examined, it might 
disclose hoarded spoils and ill-gotten gains, to the amount of 
millions. This singular fort is on the land belonging to the heirs 
of the ancient and wealthy Thorogood family. Yankee curiosity 
and enterprise may yet be brought to bear upon this interesting 
old relic, and bring out the hidden treasures, if they are there. 

We offer next some remarks relative to "Witch Duck," which 
is the name generally applied to a beautiful country seat on 
Lynnhaven River, about twelve miles from Norfolk, and now the 
property of John Ilipkins, Esq., of this city. The following re- 
markable facts will throw some light upon the origin of its 
singular name. 

In 1706, on complaint of Luke Hill and wife, Grace Sherwood, 
of Princess Anne County, was arrested on the charge of being a 
witch, and by a decision of court it was gravely required that 
she should be sea?-ched by a jury of tvomen, who accordingly per- 
formed the task, and decided and reported that she was "neither 
like them nor any other woman they knew of." She was then 
by her own consent, put to the test by a good ducking " in 
an inlet making up from Lynnhaven." This is, of course, 
the place so w^ell known by the name of Witch's Duck, or 
Witch Duck. She was subsequently confined, by the direction 
of the court, in the county jail for trial. What final disposition 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 465 

was made of poor Grace we have no means of ascertaining ; cer- 
tain it is, however, that independently of the ducking, she was 
sufficiently tormented by legal indictments, and a long and tedious 
course of law.* 

Some of the facts in this extraordinary case we are constrained 
to withhold, as being unfit for the eye of the refined reader. 
Take it altogether, it was certainly a very ^r«cc-less affair for 
the eighteenth century. 

With regard to the beautiful name, Lynnhaven, we offer a few 
remarks. It is probable that the first syllable was originally dis- 
connected from the last two, thus : Lynn Haven ; and this name 
was, perhaps, given on account of the resemblance of the waters 
which we have described, to those of the Ouse (near its falls), in 
Norfolk County, England, on which the town of Lynn — Lynn 
Regis, or King's Lynn — long celebrated as a corn market, is 
situated. Some point on the shores of the Lynnhaven may pos- 
sibly have been thought of by the early settlers as the site of a 
town to be called Lynn ; and Lynn Harbour, or Lynn Haven, 
would have been an appropriate name for the adjacent waters. 



CHAPTER LXL 

Further remarks about Lynnhaven River — Sandbar — Winds — Removal of the Bar 
— Stone Wall — Sound — Speculations — Fresh Water — Rivers, &c. — Fish and 
Oysters — Epicures — Health — Canal — A Novel Change — Currituck Sound — 
The Inlet — Maritime Productions — Fishing— Dismal Swamp Canal — Embank- 
ments of Sand — Destruction of Fish, &c. — Sickness — Lamentable Change — 
Loss to the People— Superstition — Recession of the Waters — Lynnhaven. 

We now present a few additional thoughts or suppositions, 
relative to Lynnhaven River. 

In the first place, then, the sandbar at the entrance is no 
doubt caused by the winds in the winter, and during a portion of 
the fall and spring months, which have a sweep of more than 
a hundred miles down the bay, especially from the north. 

* When persons were on trial for witchcraft in New England, they were set 
at liberty on confessing themselves guilty. 

30 



466 HISTORICAL AND 

Again, artificial means might probably be employed, with sin- 
gular effect, upon the waters within this shallow and narrow 
entrance. For instance, if the bar could be removed, and its 
re-formation prevented, so that the tides could freely ebb and 
flow with those of the sea without, the rise and fall of the 
water would be much greater within. Or, if this shallow inlet 
or outlet, Avhich is only about three-quarters of a mile wide, 
were entirely crossed and obstructed by a stone wall, which 
could be built at no great cost ; or, if it should be closed by the 
banking of the sand, a very considerable inland sea might be 
formed ; for it must be recollected, that the tributaries of Lynn- 
haven drain quite a large section of country, comparatively. 
The Avaters of the smaller bays mentioned, would probably be 
considerably raised, and the sedgy, boggy portions of the creeks 
and coves might be deeply covered with water. 

Now, with regard to the effect of damming up the mouth of the 
Lynnhaven, we have said that a sound might be formed — such as 
may have existed there before, at some period — rising, by the 
draining of the country, to a considerable elevation along the 
banks of the streams. This, however, could be regulated by the 
heisrht of an embankment or wall at the entrance. 

The narrow, muddy streams might be changed to navigable 
rivers, for it is probable that the accumulation of water would 
be much greater than the evaporation. 

The writer advocates no such plan as the above ; but simply 
alludes to a scheme which appears practicable, and which might 
be attended with rather astonishing results, although bad conse- 
quences might also ensue, sufficient to counterbalance all the ad- 
vantages. 

Epicures, take the alarm ! Good-bye to Lynnhaven fish, 
oysters, and canvass-back ducks, when the waters of the sea 
shall cease to ebb and flow through that shallow inlet. And as 
to the effect upon the health of the country, we leave that matter 
for the consideration of the doctors. 

With regard to another inlet and outlet for the new-formed 
lake, we need only mention the proposed short canal from the 
eastern branch of the Elizabeth to the western branch of the 
Lynnhaven. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 467 

The reader may fill up the outlines of the picture, for the dis- 
tant future. lie may think, if he chooses, of pleasant villages, 
and handsome farms and farm-houses, all along the green margin 
of the artificial lake or sound ; of hundreds of sail-vessels and 
steamboats loading along the shores, for miles, with corn, pota- 
toes, vegetables, fruit, timber, fire-wood, and other productions 
of the country. 

We next proceed to allude briefly, in this connexion, to Cur- 
rituck Sound, a portion of which is in Princess Anne County, 
and the remainder in the adjoining County of Currituck, North 
Carolina; and which maybe compared, in more respects than 
one, to Lynnhaven River. 

Currituck Sound, until some twenty or twenty-five years ago, 
had a short, narrow inlet ; sufficiently spacious, however, to ad- 
mit of the inward and outward passage of the waters of the 
ocean, as well as the entrance of small vessels. It is said to 
have been quite as celebrated, also, for superior maritime pro- 
ductions as Lynnhaven. Its shores were very remarkable for 
extensive fishing operations ; and, during the fishing season, 
presented scenes of great activity. 

Some time after the opening of the Dismal Swamp Canal, 
which diverted the waters of some of the tributaries of this 
sound, an abatement of the waters, especially in the northern 
portion of that great fishing reservoir, was soon perceptible — 
their outward passage being much less rapid, and proving insuf- 
ficient to clear away the embankments of sand which the waves 
of the ocean were gradually throwing up at the inlet. The con- 
sequences, of course, were, the entire blockade of the entrance to 
the sound — the discontinuance of perceptible tides — the gradual 
change of the water from salt to fresh — the wholesale destruc- 
tion of the fish, oysters, crabs, &c., and the infection of the 
country for two or three years with malaria, causing much fatal 
sickness in the vicinity. A lamentable change, truly ; a sad loss 
to those who owned the valuable fishing-grounds on the banks of 
the sound, and to the country for many miles around, on account 
of the annual supplies of fish, &c., being cut ofi" from this, 
hitherto, unfailing source. But so it was, and it could not be 
remedied. 



468 HISTORICAL AND 

Some of the superstitious residents of the country regarded the 
whole affair as a visitation of Providence, or, in other words, a 
judgment upon the people ; for the fisheries are said to have 
often presented scenes of extraordinary debauchery and immo- 
rality. 

There is also observable a gradual recession of the waters of 
this sound, from the shores reaching farthest north. 

Now, from the cause and effect in this case, a lesson may be 
learned with regard to Lynnhaven. Although the proposed 
canal, to extend to its waters, might not have a tendency similar 
to that of the Dismal Swamp, yet, independently of this, it ap- 
pears to be apprehended, by some persons, that at no very dis- 
tant period, Lynnhaven River may really share a fate, or ex- 
hibit a change, not unlike that presented by the formerly cele- 
brated Currituck Sound. 



CHAPTER LXII. 

Old Point — Place of Resort — Distance from Norfolk — The Name — Fortifica- 
tions — Castle Calhoun — Appearance — Rip Raps — Hotel — Sea-Bathing — 
Amusements — Grove — Cottages — Music — Promenade on the Battlement — 
New Hotel — Virginia Ocean House — Buildings — Parade Ground — Live Oaks 
— Troops — Ordnance — Ocean Scenery — Northeaster — Tei-rific Scene — Storm 
— Hampton — Captain Smith — Indians — Kecoughtan — Battle in the Revolu- 
tion — Attack of the British in 1813 — Barbarous Deeds — Disgraceful and In- 
famous Conduct — Cockbui-n — Beckwith — General Taylor — Summer Resort 
— Hospitality and Moral Character of Hampton — Prosperitj^ — Churches — 
Afton House — The Barrens, &c. — Elizabeth City County — Soil — Inhabi- 
tants — Population — Yorktown — Splendid Scenery — Old Church — Foreign 
Commerce, Wealth, and Power — Neglect — The People — Captain Anderson — 
York River — West Point — The Capital — Cornwallis's Surrender — Cave — 
Burial-Ground — Hugh Nelson — Nelson Family — Hole made by a Cannon-Shot 
— Northampton and Accomac — Eastern Shore-^The Land — Appearance of 
the Country — Society, &c.- — Horses and Carriages — The Ocean — " Accaw- 
macke" — Indians — Eastville, &c. — Hon. A. P. Upshur — Accomac — Hon. H. 
A. Wise — Drummondtown — Chincoteague — Splendid Scenery — Cape Charles 
— Southern Wateriug-Place. 

Old Point Comfort, the location of Fort Monroe, is a very 
popular place of resort in the summer months. It is distant 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 469 

about 16 miles from Norfolk, and 2^- from Hampton. It 
was named Point Comfort, in 1607, " on account of the good 
channel and safe anchorage it afforded;" and the word Old, was 
added to distinguish it from New Point Comfort. The fortifica- 
tions here are upon a truly grand scale. The strength, beauty, 
and extent of the establishment, and its admirable adaptation to 
the important purposes of the national defence, combine to render 
it the most important fortress and military station in the Union ; 
indeed, it is among the greatest in the world. 

Between Old Point and Sewell's Point, and opposite to Fort 
Monroe, at a distance of nineteen hundred yards, is Castle Cal- 
houn, or the Fortress of the Rip Raps. The two forts (Mon- 
roe and Calhoun) would "present immense batteries of cannon 
at an approaching hostile ship." The latter is upon an artificial 
island, made by throwing over rochs, at a depth of twenty feet. 
" The present aspect of the place is rough and savage ; the music 
of the surrounding elements of air and sea, is in keeping with 
the dreariness and desolation of the spot." 

" The shoal water, which, under the action of the sea, and re- 
acted upon by the bar, is kept up in an unremitting ripple, has 
given the name of ' Rip Raps' to this place." The foundation 
of Castle Calhoun was laid in 1826. 

At Old Point there is a splendid hotel, kept in excellent 
style ; the tables, during the summer months, are plentifully 
supplied with the choicest viands, among which may be named 
the best offish and oysters, which, with the superior facilities for 
sea-bathing and the delightful ocean breezes, the novelties and 
attractions connected with the fort, the convenient distance to 
Norfolk, Richmond, Washington, Baltimore, &c., unite to con- 
centrate a large number of visiters there during the summer 
season in search of pleasure, and for the purpose of recruiting 
impaired health. " Detached from the building, are extensive 
billiard saloons, bowling alleys, and pistol galleries, for exercise 
and amusement, and commodious bathing-houses ; the groves of 
trees in the front and rear of the house, afi'ord an abundance of 
shade ; vegetation has taken a fresh start at the Point. A short 
distance from the hotel, are two ranges of neat cottages, enclosed, 
beautified with vines, flowers, trees, and shrubbery, almost ob- 



470 HISTORICAL AND 

scaring them from view. On three nights in the Aveek, the rich 
strains of the splendid Garrison Band, fill the air with dulcet 
sounds, harmonizing with the exhilarated feelings of the listener. 
On these occasions, a promenade on the battlement of the fortress 
gives life and vigour to the entire system." 

" How sweet the moonlight sleeps upon this bank ! 
Here will we sit, and let the sound of music 
Creep in our ears ; soft stillness, and the night, 
Become the touches of sweet harmony." 

Preliminary arrangements are being made for the erection of 
an extensive hotel on the beach, not far from the fortress at Old 
Point, to be called the Virginia Ocean House. 

Within the fort are the necessary buildings for the accommoda- 
tion of the officers ; and also, a beautiful parade-ground, partially 
shaded by live oak trees, which are found no farther north than 
this particular spot. One or two regiments of troops are gene- 
rally garrisoned here. The heavy discharges from the fort, when 
the officers of the Ordnance Department are testing the strength 
of the guns, arc often heard at Norfolk. 

" Perhaps there is no place upon the Atlantic coast where the 
exciting play of wind and water may be seen to such an advan- 
tage as at Old Point. The long, frantic procession of billows 
dashes into the Chesapeake with a fury that is indescribable. 
During the last summer we happened to witness, from this spot, 
the full energy of a violent northeaster (the same which drove 
the bark Elizabeth upon Fire Island), and it was a sight to re- 
member. The scuds of rain, that you could see approaching with 
a rapidity beyond the flight of the swiftest bird, the flakes of 
foam upon the beach, the sudden darkness that occasionally 
came athwart the sky, the Titanic violence of the Avaves, com- 
bined to form a scene at once of beauty and of terror. At such 
a time it is not desirable to go out in a sail-boat. Indeed, we 
passed across Hampton Roads in a small steamer, during the 
fiercest of this gale, and though we had a capital opportunity to 
observe the wild magnificence of the angry elements, Ave were 
very much of opinion Avith the Englishman Avho got Avet at 
Niagara, that " certainly it Avas very Avell in its Avay, but that, 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 471 

on the 'ole, he preferred looking at an liengraving of it in the 
'ousc." 

Hampton, the shire town of Elizabeth City County, is distant 
eighteen miles from this city. The site was visited by Captain 
John Smith and others, in 1607. Burk, one of the historians of 
Virginia, says : "While engaged in seeking for a fit place for 
the first settlement, they met five of the natives, who invited 
them to their town, Kecoughtan, or Kichotan, where Hampton 
now stands." It became a town in 1705. Hampton was attacked 
by a British fleet, during the Revolutionary war, and was invaded 
during the last contest with Great Britain. In October, 1775, the 
place was bravely and successfully defended by a well-disciplined 
rifle company, assisted by the inhabitants. 

"After the British fleet had been so signally defeated in their 
attempt on Norfolk and Portsmouth, in June, 1813, by the 
gallant defence of Craney Island, they proceeded to attack 
Hampton, which w^as defended by a garrison of four hundred 
and fifty militia, protected by some slight fortifications." Per- 
kins, in his history of the late war, says: "Admiral Cockburn, 
on the 25th of June, with his forces, advanced towards the 
town in barges and small vessels, throwing shells and rockets 
while Sir Sidney Beckwith effected a landing below, with two 
thousand men. Cockburn's party were repulsed by the garrison, 
and driven back behind a point, until General Beckwith's troops 
advanced and compelled the garrison to retire. The town being 
now completely in the possession of the British, was given up to 
pillage. Many of the inhabitants had fled with their valuable 
effects ; those who remained suffered the most shameful bar- 
barities. That renegade corps, composed of French prisoners, 
accustomed to plunder and murder in Spain, and who had been 
induced to enter the British service by promises of similar indul- 
gences in America, were now to be gratified, and were let loose 
upon the wretched inhabitants of Hampton without restraint." 
" The battle of Hampton," says another writer, "was marked 
by deeds of rapine and atrocity by the enemy, which would have 
disgraced a Vandal host, and reflected lasting infamy on the 
British name." It was in allusion to these outrages that Sir 
Sidney Beckwith, in a letter to General R. B. Taylor, who 
commanded the army in Norfolk and Adcinity at the time, as 



472 HISTORICAL AND 

before stated, made this forcible and striking remark ; " Worth- 
less is the laurel that is steeped in woman's tears." 

Hampton is also much resorted to in summer for health and 
recreation. The inhabitants have long been noted for their hos- 
pitality and public spirit ; and the moral character of the place 
compares favourably mth. that of others. The toAvn has greatly 
improved in appearance within a few years, and continues to 
give evidence of prosperity and advancement. Old St. John's 
Church has undergone extensive repairs. There are several 
other churches in the place, all kept in good order, a court-house, 
and other public buildings, besides many neat and commodious 
private dwellings. There are several well-conducted public 
houses ; among which we mention with pleasure, the Afton 
House, of which Mr. John Tabb is proprietor. The buildings 
are finely located ; and the establishment presents very strong 
inducements to persons visiting this delightful little town in 
search of health and pleasure. The fare is exceedingly fine, and 
all the arrangements of the house are in good taste and excellent 
style ; indeed, it is conducted by the worthy host and his refined 
and estimable lady, in a manner which, for polite attention, 
system, and good order, is scarcely excelled in any section of 
country. A substantial bridge connects the town with the road 
leading to Old Point. 

Hampton is the birthplace of some notable men ; among 
whom were the Barrens, — who distinguished themselves in the 
Revolution — one of whom was the father of the late veteran. 
Commodore James Barron, of the United States Navy. Cap- 
tains Meredith and Cunningham, of the old State Navy, Major 
Finn, of the army, and other distinguished men, were also from 
this place. 

Elizabeth City County was one of the divisions of the State 
made in 1634. It comprises a space of country eighteen miles 
square. The land is generally fertile, and in some places exceed- 
ingly rich and productive. Great attention is paid to the im- 
provement of the soil, and agriculture has long been in a very 
flourishing condition in this excellent little county, which is 
considered by some the garden spot of the State. The inhabi- 
tants, for the most part, possess a sociable, obliging, and hospi- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 473 

table disposition. The population may be put down at four 
thousand. 

Yorktown, in York County, ever memorable for the surrender 
of Cornwallis, is about thirty-five miles from this city. There 
are only a few buildings, many of which are in a decayed and 
dilapidated state. '• The water scenery at York is fine. The 
river, full a mile wide, is seen stretching away until it merges 
in Chesapeake Bay — an object of surpassing beauty, when rol- 
ling in the morning light, its ripples sparkling in the sun ; or 
when its broad bosom is tinged with the cloud-reflected hues of 
an autumnal sunset. On its banks stand the ruins of the old 
church. Silence reigns within its walls, and the ashes of the 
illustrious dead repose at its base." 

" Long before the Revolution, the commerce of Yorktown had 
much declined, notwithstanding the w^ealth and power located in 
its immediate vicinity ; and the Virginia trade was, in a great 
measure, diverted to our harbour, owing to its greater safety 
and facilities for business. 

"The view from the ancient ramparts on the hill," says one 
who recently visited the place, " excited general admiration, while 
the locality of the venerable city, now suffering under the heavy 
yoke of time and legislative neglect, induced the hope that, under 
the new state of things, of which a faint beginning seems to have 
dawned upon our good old commonwealth, Yorktown might yet 
retrieve her former position among cities. The good people of 
the place are fully awake to her interests, and will leave no 
effort untried to advance her prospects. Captain Anderson, a 
wealthy and enterprising citizen, has built a strong and commo- 
dious wharf, and taken other steps towards that object. 

" Leaving Yorktown, we pursued our course up the river, a 
distance of forty miles — its entire length — and a more majestic 
sheet of water we do not believe exists, nor one uniting so com- 
pletely all the facilities of navigation. It preserves its breadth, 
say two miles, from its source to its mouth, and presents not the 
least obstruction to navigation by vessels of any size, in any 
weather. At West Point — the extreme end of King William 
County, and once advocated as the site for the capital of the 



474 HISTORICAL AND 

State, — a single vote decided in favour of Richmond — the Pa- 
munky and Mattaponi form a junction with the York. 

" The York River is, properly speaking, an arm of the bay, 
from its mouth to the point where the Pamunky and Mattaponi 
unite. In the early period of our colonial history, the attempt 
was made to build up at Yorktown a large commercial city; but 
long before the Revolution it proved abortive, notwithstanding 
its contiguity to Williamsburg, then the seat of royal authority 
in Virginia. Its magnificent water prospect is well calculated at 
first view to encourage the idea ; and the ever-glorious reminis- 
cences connected with its hallowed soil, even now, at times, en- 
gender such a hope." 

" We were shown," says another writer, " the spot where 
Cornwallis delivered up his sword to Washington — the ' Moore 
House,' where the articles of capitulation were drawn up — the 
identical redoubts which were carried by Lafayette and Wash- 
ington, sword in hand — the cave called ' Cornwallis's Cave,' and 
the old burial-ground, where some of the most ancient tomb- 
stones in Virginia can be found. One especially attracted our 
attention, which was inscribed to the memory of Hugh Nelson, 
buried 1745. The inscription is in Latin, with the family coat 
of arms cut upon the wall of the sides of the tomb. He was, 
doubtless, the ancestor of the Nelson family, and occupied a re- 
spectable position in the then colony. The ancient brick man- 
sion of the Nelson family is also here ; and in the eastern gable- 
end is a hole about eight inches in circumference, which was 
made by a cannon-ball from the American army, during the siege. 
The house must be at least one hundred years old, and is in tole- 
rably good preservation." 

Northampton and Accomac Counties, which embrace a small 
peninsula, with the wide Atlantic on the east, and the Chesa- 
peake on the west, and reaching from the Maryland line south 
to Cape Charles, generally called the Eastern Shore, may cer- 
tainly be regarded as comprising one of the most delightful and 
agreeable portions of our State. The land is level, the soil 
good, though light, and generally kept in an excellent state of 
cultivation. There is, in almost every direction, an appear- 
ance of thrift, industry, good husbandry, and good society. Some 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 475 

of the inhabitants are very wealthy, while a large proportion 
are in easy and prosperous circumstances. Taking them, gene- 
rally, we may say, without adulation, Ave have rarely met with 
a more liberal, gentlemanly, and intelligent community. They 
appear contented, and, withal, greatly attached to their native 
place. The roads are excellent, living cheap, the climate salu- 
brious, fine horses and vehicles are exceedingly numerous, and, 
with the deep and ever musical roar of the ocean ahvays within 
hearing distance, it is truly delightful to make a visit to our 
Eastern Shore. 

Northampton is a part of the territory originally called Ae- 
cawmacke, which was the name of the tribe of Indians that held 
possession of the soil. In 1643, a division was made, and the 
southern portion was called Northampton. Eastville, a pleasant 
and flourishing village, is situated about the centre of the county. 
Capeville, Johnsontown, and other pleasant villages, are also 
located in Northampton. 

This county has produced some eminent men, among whom we 
should mention Hon. Abel P. Upshur, formerly Secretary of 
State. He was a powerful orator, a brilliant writer, and an ac- 
complished gentleman. His sudden death, while Secretary of 
State, occasioned by the explosion of a gun on one of the na- 
tional vessels, is well recollected. 

Accomac County, the northern division of the original Ac- 
cmvmacke, embraces a level space of country, forty-eight miles 
long and ten wide. This county is celebrated as the native 
place of Hon. Henry A. Wise, one of Virginia's greatest orators, 
whom we have already partially described. Drummondtown, a 
beautiful village, is the county seat. There are several other 
pleasant and handsome villages. Chincoteague is one of the 
beautiful islands on the coast, the view from wliich is sublimely 
interesting, and seldom surpassed in interest by ocean scenery. 

A gentleman who recently visited Cape Charles, says : " We 
found the situation a delightful and commanding one ; the broad 
Atlantic on the one side, rolling in all its grandeur, and the noble 
Chesapeake on the other. The point is susceptible of the most 
enlarged improvement, and far surpasses in advantages the cele- 
brated watering-place at Cape May. It is in contemplation to 



476 HISTORICAL AND 

purchase the place by a joint stock company, and we know of no 
enterprise that affords a better chance for a judicious invest- 
ment. We trust the design will be speedily carried out, and 
suitable buildings established there before the next season. 
Every variety of fish can be taken in the water, and the adja- 
cent country is fertile and abounds with game. The party met 
with a cordial reception from the citizens of the County of North- 
ampton, deservedly famed for its generous hospitality." 

Cape Charles is thirty-five miles from Norfolk, equal to an 
ordinary run of three hours. A steamboat would be profitably 
employed in making the run daily, touching at Old Point and 
Hampton ; for the establishment at the Cape will rather add to 
than diminish the resort to these places, where the best table 
fare of our climate and waters is to be found, and the bathing is 
so generally approved. The distance from Old Point to Cape 
Charles is twenty-two miles. 



CHAPTER LXIII. 

Jamestown — First Settlement in British America — Situation — Old Graveyard 
and Ruins — John Smith — Settlement^Old Church — Battle with the Indians 
— Plan and Fortifications — Destructive Fire — Public Records Destroyed — 
Seat of Government Removed to Williamsburg — Yankee Monopoly — The 
Landing of the Pilgrims — Williamsburg — Situation — Capital — Population — 
Lunatic Asylum — William and Mary College — Trustees, President, and 
Chancellor — Endowment — Magazine — Dunmore — Statue — Old Buildings — 
Churches, College, Military Academy, &c. — Centre of Fashion and Learning 
— Society — Plan of the Town^Old Almanac. 

The site of Jamestown, the first settlement in British America, 
and the first seat of colonial government, is on. a small peninsula, 
or projecting piece of land, on the north side of James River, 
about eight miles south-southwest of Williamsburg. It is a sacred 
and melancholy spot. The old graveyard, and a portion of the 
steeple of the old church, are nearly all that remain to remind the 
traveller of those days long departed, when Captain John Smith 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 477 

and his company first landed on tlio banks of the noble James, 
and amid the dangers and privations to which they Avere sub- 
jected, commenced the foundation of the most powerful and 
flourishing of the colonies. 

" Here stand the remnants of the first church built in 
America. Within its walls, nearly three hundred years ago, 
while the red man roamed the wild forest, a savage, in human 
form, was promulgated that gospel which assimilates man to his 
Maker. Here went up solemn hymns of praise, from those who 
braved the tempest, endured hardships, and planted the standard 
of liberty upon our native soil — those who, while they held the 
shield of Christianity in one hand, grasped the gun or sword in 
the other — those who sufi"ered, that we, their offspring, might be 
happy, while they sleep mouldering in the silent sepulchre of 
death. Knowing these things, how deep a debt of gratitude do 
we owe our venerated sires. 

" There are now but this old, lonely, dilapidated church, and 
the ruins of an old magazine, remaining to mark the spot where 
once stood the beautiful little village of Jamestown, so renowned 
in history. Like Jerusalem of old, one stone has not been left 
upon another, and the ploughshare and pruning-hook m.ay be 
seen where was once heard the busy hum of a sprightly town." 

According to the account of John Smith, "on the 13th of May, 
1607, after a search of seventeen days, they (Smith, Gosnold, 
Newport, RatcliflF, Martin, and others), fixed upon a peninsula on 
the north side of the James River, about fifty miles from its 
mouth, and then in the possession of the Paspaheghs. This they 
pronounced a very fit place for a very great city ; but there was 
some contention about it between Captain Gosnold and Wing- 
field, even after the provisions were landed. Here they com- 
menced the settlement of Jamestown, which was, as it proved, the 
small beginning of our now great and prosperous confederacy." 

Shortly after, the unprotected settlers were attacked by four 
hundred Indians : " a boy was slain, and most of the council, 
and thirteen others wounded. Had not a crossbar, fired from 
one of the ships, striking down a bough from a tree, frightened 
the savages, there would have been an end of that plantation." 



478 HISTORICAL AND 

The following is an old description of Jamestown, or rather 
of the Fo7-t, which had attained to some dignity in 1609. 

"A low and level lot of ground, of about half an acre, on the 
north side of the river, was palisaded in a triangular form ; the 
south side, next the river, comprehended one hundred and forty 
yards ; the west and east sides respectively, a hundred. At every 
angle or corner where the lines intersected, a bulwark or watch- 
tower was raised, and in each bulwark was mounted a piece of 
ordnance. On every side, at a proportionable distance from the 
palisade, was a settled street of houses, which was so laid out 
that each line of the angle had its street. In the centre stood 
the market-house, store-house, guard-house, and church. 

" Thus was the town enclosed with a palisade of planks and 
strong posts four feet deep in the ground, composed of young oaks 
and walnuts. The principal gate from the town through the 
palisade opened on the river ; at each bulwark there was also a 
gate, and at each gate, and in the market-place, a demi-culverin." 

Shortly after this period the store-house took fire, and the 
houses of the town being thatched with reeds, burned with such 
violence that the fortifications, arms, apparel, bedding, and a 
great quantity of private goods and provisions, were consumed. 

The public records were destroyed here in 1698, in a fire 
which consumed a large portion of the town ; after which the 
seat of government was removed to Williamsburg. 

"It is time now," says a New York writer, "that the merits 
of this Yankee monopoly of the first white settlements were exa- 
mined into. The settlement of Jamestown, in Virginia, in 1607, 
was a little in advance of the landing of the northern Pilgrims 
of 1620." 

Williamsburg, for many years the capital of Virginia, is situ- 
ated on the division line between James City and York Counties, 
and on the east side of a small tributary of the James. It is 
distant sixty-five miles from Norfolk, and has a population of 
about 1500. 

This place having been made the seat of government, in 
1698, so continued until the Revolutionary war. The East- 
ern Lunatic Asylum, of Virginia, is located here, and is a 
large and lofty pile of buildings, properly enclosed, and very 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 479 

suitable for the purjDOses designed. This town is celebrated for 
its College of William and Mary, which was endowed during the 
joint reign of these monarchs, while Virginia was a colony of 
Great Britain. William and Mary College is, with one excep- 
tion, the oldest in the Union. Francis Nicholson, Lieutenant- 
Governor of Virginia, and seventeen other persons, nominated 
and appointed by the Assembly, were confirmed as trustees, and 
were empowered to hold and enjoy lands, possessions, and in- 
comes, to the yearly value of .£2000, and all donations bestowed 
for their use. The Rev. James Blair was first President, and 
the Bishop of London first Chancellor. The King and Queen 
endowed the College with 20,000 acres of land, together with 
the revenue arising from the duty of one penny per pound on all 
tobacco transported from Virginia and Maryland to the other 
English plantations. 

This ancient College is rapidly regaining its high reputation. 
It has now about eighty students. With so eflicient and accom- 
plished a faculty as William and Mary has now, it must suc- 
ceed. 

The old Magazine, erected one hundred and twenty years ago, 
from which Lord Dunmore removed the powder, in 1775, has 
been repaired, and is now used by the Baptists as a place of 
worship. There are, also, several old buildings formerly con- 
nected with Dunmore's palace. A statue of Lord Botetourt, 
one of the Colonial Governors, stands in the College square. 
The Methodist and Protestant Episcopal denominations have 
each a church. There are also here, a Female College, Military 
Academy, and other institutions of learning. 

Before the seat of government was removed to Richmond, 
Williamsburg was " the centre of fashion, wealth, and learning 
in the Old Dominion," and the place is still noted for its good 
society, and for the refinement and polite hospitality of its 
citizens. 

The streets of Williamsburg are regularly laid out, in the 
form of the letter W, in honour of William III. The site was 
originally called Middle Plantation. The writer has been 
handed, by a friend, a copy of " The Virginia Almanac, for the 



480 HISTORICAL AND 

year of our Lord God, 1776, being bissextile or leap year, con- 
taining the lunations, conjunctions, eclipses, judgment of the 
"weather, rising and setting of the planets, &c., also, a list of his 
Majesty's Honourable Council, and of the House of Burgesses, 
courts, roads, &c., and a variety of matter calculated for instruc- 
tion and amusement, by David Rittenhouse, Philo., Williams- 
burg, printed by J. Dixon and A. Hunter." The typographical 
execution is very neat. This old literary curiosity is in a very 
good state of preservation. It is, indeed, an excellent work of 
the kind, although it contains some articles of doubtful propriety, 
and which we might publish, but for the fear that they might do 
more than merely amuse or interest some of our readers. 



CHAPTER LXIV. 

Smithfield — Situation — Beautiful Scenery — Stores and Residences — Shade- 
trees and Gardens — Appearance — Isle of AVight County — Enterprise — Soil — 
Bacon — Smithfield Hams — Brandy — Dried Fruit — Eggs — Poulti-y — Revenue 
— Suffolk — Situation — Railroad — Churches — Burnt by the British— Fire — 
Trade — Appearance — Hospitality — Branch of the Nansemond — Romantic 
Scenery — Matthews and Gloucester — Lands — Natural Advantages — Society 
— Perennial Charms — Local Attachment — Fair Daughters of the Seques- 
tered Peninsula — New Church — Rev. G. S. Carraway. 

The beautiful and pleasant little town of Smithfield is situated 
in the northern part of Isle of Wight County, " on an elevated 
bank on the margin of Pagan Creek, a bold and navigable 
stream, commanding a splendid view of both land and water 
scenery — the country, for ten miles on the opposite bank of the 
James, being in full sight." There are about twenty stores, a 
number of handsome residences, and three or four churches ; — 
population 1500. The place is tastefully ornamented with 
shade-trees, flower-gardens, &c., and has a social and very plea- 
sant appearance. It has been said, with regard to Isle of Wight 
County, that " there is not a more thrifty and enterprising popu- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 481 

lation in Virginia. Their soil is not remarkable for its fertility, 
but tliey make up in energy and industry that which has been 
refused them by the bounty of nature. An immense amount of 
bacon is annually shipped from this county, and the reputation 
of their hams is as world-renowned as those from Westphalia. 
They have ceased, in a measure, to make brandy from the apple, 
but engage in the more laudable and profitable business of cutting 
up and drying the fruit. This single article brings them an an- 
nual revenue of $20,000. The eggs sent to this market realize 
more than $5,000, and the poultry not less than $10,000." 

Suifolk, the county-seat of Nansemond, is about sixteen miles 
southwest of Portsmouth, on the Nansemond River, and is on 
the line of the Seaboard and Iloanoke Railroad. The situation 
is high, pleasant, and remarkably healthful. It contains four 
churches, a good court-house, and several other public buildings, 
besides a number of stores and neat family residences. Suffolk 
was burned by the British on May 13th, 1779, and not many 
years ago the buildings on the principal street were nearly all 
destroyed by fire. It has, for a long time, had quite a flourish- 
ing trade in lumber, corn, pitch, tar, &c. The place has a neat, 
rural appearance. There are two spirited party papers published 
in the town. 

" The northern branch of the Nansemond abounds in scenery 
of the most picturesque and romantic description, and is well 
deserving the attention of Nature's admirers. The stream is of 
fresh watei', winding some three or four miles in a northwesterly 
direction from Suffolk, and its average width is about fifty feet. 
In ascending its intricate windings, you are surprised at the dif- 
erent aspects presented to view. In some instances, the tall and 
majestic junipers are entirely submerged at the base, and, as 
you proceed, an elevation will suddenly appear, as if by magic, 
rising perpendicularly from the river at least twenty feet, ren- 
dering the contrast at once startling and delightful." 

The hospitable inhabitants of the sterling county of Nansemond 
are also moving steadily onward in the march of improvement. 

With regard to Matthews and Gloucester Counties, a gentle- 
man, writing from the former (June, 1852), says : — 

" This and the adjoining county of Gloucester are justly con- 

31 



482 HISTORICAL AND 

siderecl the garden-spot of the State. The Lands are remarkable 
for their fertility, and generally are in a high state of cultivation 
and improvement. The country is salubrious at all seasons of 
the year ; and the many navigable rivers, by which it is inter- 
sected, abound with fish of every variety, oysters, and, indeed, 
with every species of marine luxury. I know of no quarter, on 
this little terrestrial globe of ours, that presents so many phy- 
sical advantages, and which, at the same time, is so picturesque 
and beautiful. The lands are finely adapted to the culture of 
wheat and corn. 

" The society here is of a very superior order — refined, intel- 
ligent, social ; and they have, perhaps, more of the ' amor soli" 
than any other people in the State. They cultivate this feeling 
as a principle, and consider it as almost essential to an enduring 
and discerning 'amor patrise.' 

" If I could feign or fancy, as in days of yore, nymphs or 
water-sprites under the waves of the majestic stream, from whose 
banks these lines are indited, I would faithfully and religiously 
pay my tribute to the Alma Dea of the waters. But the plea- 
sant days of such poetic embellishments have passed away. 
Here, at least, they have been superseded by the more real 
charms of the graceful, accomplished, and well-educated 
daughters, who reside on this sylvan and sequestered peninsula. 
Never did the sun of heaven shine on lovelier blossoms ! but I 
must restrain my feelings, as I tread on holy ground. It seems 
like disturbing the perfume of the violet in its quiet retreat." 

In an account of the dedication of a new church in Matthews, 
the same writer says : — 

" There was a large assemblage present to witness the impos- 
ing ceremonies. The church is a neat and unostentatious build- 
ing, located in a beautiful forest, where the pious and devout can 
oifer up their adorations to the Throne of Grace, unmolested by 
the noise and pomp of the fashionable world. It was erected 
under the zealous and efficient ministration of the Rev. Mr. 
Carraway, formerly of Norfolk, who is doing much good here, 
and is beloved by all who are capable of appreciating true 
worth." 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 483 



CHAPTER LXV. 

Interesting Object — Lake Drummond — Hotel ^Boundary Line — Connubial 
Parties — Location of the Lake — Dismal Swamp — William Wirt's Statement — 
Extent — Soil, Trees, &c. — Beasts — Undergrowth — Reeds, Vines, &c. — Dismal 
Swamp Canal — Seaboard and Roanoke Railroad — Jericho Canal — Lumber 
Trade — Draining the Swamp — Peat — The Lake — Interesting Scene — Graphic 
Description — The Poet Moore — Love Affair — Touching Lines — Deep Creek — 
Houses — Trade — Inhabitants — AVashington Point — St. Helena — Lands — 
U. S. Government Buildings — Concluding Remarks. 

There is in the vicinity of our city an object of considerable 
interest, of which little is knoAvn, even by many of the inhabi- 
tants. We allude to Lake Drummond, or, as the poet Moore 
called it, "The Lake of the Dismal Swamp." It lies about twenty- 
two miles from Norfolk, and four miles west of the canal, in 
which its waters are emptied through a lateral branch, two miles 
from the Hotel, which is situated on the east branch of the canal, 
with its centre on the boundary line of Virginia and North Caro- 
lina — a convenient stopping-place for connubial parties from the 
former State. The quiet and unruffled waters of the lake are to 
be found in the interior of the Dismal Swamp, through which, 
by the way, runs the dividing line of the two adjoining States, 
the larger portion of the swamp being in Virginia, and extend- 
ing in a northerly and southerly direction about thirty miles, 
and averaging in breadth about ten miles. Mr. Wirt styled it 
the "Great Dismal Swamp," and in an account of the running 
of the boundary line, he stated that it was " more than forty 
miles in length, and twenty in breadth; its soil, a black, deep 
mire, covered with a stupendous forest of juniper and cypress 
trees, whose luxurious branches, interwoven throughout, intercept 
the beams of the sun, and teach the day to counterfeit the night." 
"This forest," continues that writer, "which, until that time, 
no human foot had ever violated, had become the secure retreat 
of ten thousand beasts of prey. Below is a thick, entangled un- 
dergrowth of reeds, woodbine, grape vines, mosses, and creepers, 
shooting and twisting spirally around, interlaced and compli- 



484 HISTORICAL and 

cated." The Disma,! Swamp Canal, to which allusion has been 
made, runs through it from north to south, and " the Seaboard 
and Roanoke Railroad passes like a grand and densely shaded 
avenue for five miles across its northern part." Jericho Canal, 
a ditch about eighteen feet wide and ten miles long, also connects 
with Lake Drummond. Immense quantities of staves, shingles, 
&c., are transported through it on "flats," from whence they 
are conveyed in wagons or carts to the Nansemond River, distant 
about one and a half miles, and navigable for schooners of seventy 
or eighty tons. 

This swamp, it is thought, might be drained, the fertile lands 
reclaimed, and, as the soil is vegetable, it is believed by some 
persons that it might be used as ijeat. 

In this singular swamp, not very far from its western borders, 
strangely scooped out by the hand of Nature, is the concavity, 
averaging about twelve feet deep, that forms the bed of the 
Drummond Lake, which reposes peacefully in its romantic re- 
tirement. A solemn stillness pervades the shores — a silence 
broken only by the melancholy dirges of the breeze in the thick 
foliage above, the notes of the feathered songsters, the hiss of 
the venomous reptile, or, perchance, the splash of the leaping, 
fluttering perch. " It is delightful," adopting the language of 
the facetious editor of the Herald, " to drive along its banks, or 
skim its surface in the morning or evening of a summer's day, 
when the sun is just above the horizon ; the mirror-like surface 
below reflects the trees, whose limbs embracing above, form 
umbrageous vistas, beyond which the eye now and then catches a 
view of an opening in the blue firmament ; and the gilding of the 
sunbeams is relieved by the lengthened shadows of the objects 
upon which they rest. Then to inhale the delicious fragrance of 
the jessamine, the laurel, the eglantine, the wild rose, and various 
other aromatic shrubs and flowers with which the swamp abounds — 
not even the spicy gales of Arabia can surpass it, and no efi"ort of 
the pictorial art can do it justice." 

Thomas Moore, the Irish Poet, who, as already stated, visited 
this place in 1805, composed some touching lines on a legendary 
love aftair connected with Lake Drummond. We shall give them 
a place, although they have been often published. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 485 



A BALLAD. 

THE LAKE OF THE DISMAL SWAMP. 
[written at NORFOLK, IN VIRGINIA.] 

They tell of a young man who lost his mind upon the death of a girl he loved ; 
and who, suddenly disappearing from his friends, was never afterwards heard of. 
As he frequently said in his ravings, that the girl was not dead, but gone to 
the Dismal Swamp, it is supposed that he had wandered into that dreary wil- 
derness and died of hunger, or been lost in some of its dreadful morasses. 

" They made her a grave, too cold and damp 

For a soul so warm and true ; 
And she's gone to the lake of the Dismal Swamp, 
"Where all night long, by a fire-fly lamp. 

She paddles her white canoe. 

"And her fire-fly lamp I soon shall see, 

And her paddle I soon shall hear; 
Long and loving our life shall be. 
And I'll hide the maid in a cypi-ess tree. 

When the footstep of death is near !" 

Away to the Dismal Swamp he speeds ; 

His path was rugged and sore, 
Through tangled juniper, beds of reeds. 
Through many a fen, where the serpent feeds. 

And man never trod before ! 

And when on the earth he sank to sleep. 

If slumber his eyelids knew. 
He lay where the deadly vine doth weep 
Its venomous tear, and nightly steep 

The flesh with blistering dew! 

And near him the she-wolf stirred the brake. 
And the copper-snake breathed in his ear. 

Till he starting cried, from his dream awake, 

"Oh I when shall I see the dusky lake, 
And the white canoe of my dear?" 

He saw the lake, and a meteor bright. 

Quick over its sui'face played — 
" Welcome !" he said ; " my dear one's light!" 
And the dim shore exchoed for many a night, 

The name of the death-cold maid ! 



486 HISTORICAL AND 

Till he hollowed a boat of the birchen bark, 

Which carried him off from shore ; 
Far he followed the meteor spark ; 
^ The wind was high and the clouds were dark, 

And the boat returned no more. 

But oft from the Indian hunter's camp. 

This lover and maid so true, 
Are seen at the hour of midnight damp, 
To cross the lake by a firefly lamp, 

And paddle their white canoe ! 

Deep Creek, a pleasant village at the northern terminus of 
the Canal, is about eight miles from Norfolk. It contains about 
fifty houses, and carries on some trade in shingles, staves, fire- 
wood, &c. It is distinguished for the generous and social cha- 
racter of its inhabitants. 

Washington, commonly called Washington Point, or Ferry 
Point, which occupies a portion of the angle formed by the con- 
fluence of the southern and eastern branches of our river, is a 
neat and pleasant little village. At St. Helena, situated on the 
south of Washington Point, and on the eastern shore of the 
Southern Branch, the lands have recently changed hands, and 
have been enclosed and much improved. The United States 
Government has purchased this property, which is immediately 
opposite the Navy Yard. Several large and substantial brick 
buildings, intended for store-houses, &c., have been erected, 
and the appearance of the grounds in this direction is rapidly 
improving. 

We now bring these sketches to a close, and respectfully take 
our leave of the reader, whose clemency, we trust, has prompted 
him to make all due allowances. The sparsely scattered mate- 
rials of historical and statistical information embraced in the 
work, were collected amid a variety of cares and duties, which 
tended greatly to interrupt the patient labour and attention so 
requisite, especially in preparing them for the press. An en- 
lightened public will decide impartially, we believe, with regard 
to the performance of the task, and the character, interest, 
utility, and probable influence of the work. The consciousness 
that he has, at least, endeavoured to perform the duty as faith- 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 487 

fully as attending circumstances would permit, will enable the 
writer patiently and cheerfully to abide by that decision, whether 
favourable or unfavourable. 

With regard to his opinion of the present prospects of the 
City, as expressed on some of the preceding pages, and coincid- 
ing as it does, with that of many judicious and experienced indi- 
viduals, both at home and abroad, he is constrained to express 
the sincere hope, that time may not prove it to be erroneous. 
May a full tide of prosperity, such as has never before been 
witnessed here, ere long roll in upon Norfolk, Portsmouth, and 
all the surrounding country ! the merchants, tradesmen, and 
mechanics, all, increasingly busy and successful ; the husband- 
man annually gathering in abundant harvests ; and the members 
of all trades, professions, and classes, enjoying the reward of 
their labour and industry — receiving ample compensation for 
their toils, whether mental or physical. 

May the borders of the City and all the neighbouring towns 
and villages be widened — new avenues opened, built upon, and 
occupied ! May the principles of true religion and morality be 
spread abroad, and exert their genial influence upon the people, 
that no sad, calamitous visitation of Providence may ever be 
necessary to teach them their duty to the' great I AM ! May 
the number of spacious temples be increased — temples conse- 
crated to Him who is the great and only source of all true hap- 
piness, of every blessing ; so that the foundations of knowledge 
and virtue may be laid deep, wide, and strong, and many a noble, 
firm, and lofty mental and moral structure reared ; so that the pro- 
tecting care of Heaven may continue over all the inhabitants; 
for " except the Lord keep the city, the watchman waketh but 
in vain." May our beautiful town continue to increase in wealth, 
influence, and righteousness, until the mighty Heavenly messen- 
ger shall descend, and, with " his right foot upon the sea, and 
his left foot upon the earth," swear, in tones louder than seven- 
fold thunder, "that time shall be no longer !" 

And when the affairs of this life shall all be wound up, its toils 
and cares over, the din of business for ever silenced, and the 
wonders and realities of the eternal world shall be revealed, may 



488 HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. 

the names of the inhabitants, in thousands and tens of thousands, 
be found among those written in the register of Heaven, " the 
Lamb's book of life," entitling them to an everlasting habitation 
in "that great city," 

" Where the rivers of pleasure flow o'er the bright plains, 
And the noontide of glory eternally reigns !" 



I N I) E X. 



Aborigines, 35 

Access, means of, 314 

Accidents to theatres, 119 

Accoinac County, 474 

A child's burial, 353 

Acts of Assembly, 153, 221 

Adams, John, 306 

Afton House, 472 

Agents, English and Scotch, 434 

Agricultural fair, 293 

productions, 294 
Agriculture, 295, 414 
Alarming light, 163 
Almshouse, 200 
Alum Springs, 282 
Amazon Valley, 316,317 
American Beacon, 145, 236 
Ancient coin, 35 

fort, 459 
Anderson, Captain, 473 

Rev. S. J. P., 233 
An hour among the flowers, 372 
Animal magnetism, 225 
Anniversary, 191 
Appearance of the city, 322, 407 
Aquatic excursion, 205 
Architecture, 58 
Aristocracy, 42 
Artesian well, 216 
Ashland Hall, 258 
Atlantic Ocean, 449 
Atmosphere, 326 
Avon Theatre, 212, 252 

Back country, 310, 316 

Creek, 119, 196, 199, 212 

Baker, Judge R. H., 286 
John P., 187 

Balfour, Dr., 325 

Ball, Adjutant, 139 

Ballad, 485 

Baltimore, 117, 305, 308 

Steam Packet Company, 155, 303 

Bank robbery, 285 

Banks, 344 

Baptist church, 108 

at London Bridge, 446 
in Portsmouth, 215 
new, 240, 256, 323 



Barbarity of British troops, 126 

Barron, Commodore James, 272,275, 349 

Barrons, the, 472 

Battle of Craney Island, 121-127 

of Great Bridge, 74, 75 

at Hampton, 471 
Beale, Charles H., 328 
Beall, Rev. U., 232 
Beautiful scenery, 328 

sketch, 373, 374 
Beckwith, Sir Sidney, 471 
Belgium, 320 
Benevolent old negro, 419 
Bethel Church, 234 
Bible Society, 142 
Birds, 436, 440 
Blackbeard's treasures, 464 
Black Hawk, 194 
Blake, Rev. B. T., 187 
Blanchard, Thomas, 103, 350 
Bland, Rev. Mr., 107 
Bonaparte, Louis N., 208 
Bonsai, C, 217, 272 
Booth, 160 
Boots and shoes, 408 
Borough charter, 50, 53, 200 

privileges, 65 
Boston, 306 
Boundary, 51 
Boush, M., 463 

Samuel, 54 

Samuel, Jr., 55 
Boys burnt, 230 
Bridal ballad, &c., 352 
Bridges, 303 
British crueltv, 79, 471 

fleet, 80-86 

soldiers, 86, 126 

Spy, 334 

squadron, 129, 140 
Broad Bay, 447, 458 
Broughton, T. G., 101 

Dr. C. H., 101 

R. D., 101 
Bruce, Rev. P., 92 
Brutal murder, 157 
Bull-bait, 60 
Buildings, 58, 107 
Burial of the gallant dead, 374 



490 



INDEX. 



Burying-ground, 172, 200 
Business, JOC, 107, 115, 116, 117 
Butt, Miss M. H.,357 
Byrd, Colonel, Statement of, 50 

Cadets, Virginia Military Institute, 252 
Caldwell, Rev. Mr., 228 
California, 240 
Camp, G. W.. 137 

Major G. W., 137, 164 
Campbell, Alexander, 56 
Camp-meeting scene, 181-188 
Canal in Princess Anne, 437, 466, 468 

James River and Kanawha, 112 

Dismal Swamp, 97, 163, 190 

to Albemarle Sound, 260, 261 
Cannonade, 80, 84 
Cannon-ball, 61 
Cape Charles, 475, 476 

Henry Light House, 100 
Capital, 345 
Capevillc, 475 
Capron, Capt. John, 138 
Carraway, Rev. G. S., 482 
Castle Calhoun, 469 
Caterpillars, 220 
Catholic Church, 215, 290 
Celebration, 191 
Census, 270 
Centenary, 200 

Hymn, 205 
Centennial Celebration, 203 
Centralization, 311 
Chamber of Commerce, 108 
Champion of the free, 371 
Changes, 58 
Charles the Second, 41 
Charter-men, 51 
Cheap literature, 347 
Chesapeake aH'air, 117 

Bay, 455 
China and East India trade, 301 
Chincoteague, 475 
Cholera. 192, 194, 244, 337 
Christ Church, 177, 178,* 234 
Church built by lottery, 96 

bell, 178 

clock, 178 

in Matthews, 482 

laws, 45 

Point, 459 

Street, 107, 264 
Churches, 107, 108, 340 
Cisterns, 216 
Citizens of Norfolk, 340 
City charter, 223 

debt, 197 

Hotel, 214 

Hall, 212, 235, 254 

Inspector, 164, 199 

limits, 51 

Prison, 212 

revenue, 112, 246 

scrip, 291 



Classes of society, 57 
Clay, Henry, 217, 289, 371 
Climate, 34 
Clipper ships, 318 
Clothing, 411 
Coal trade, 298 
Cockburn, Admiral, 126, 471 
Cockrane, Admiral, 132 
Cold plague, 332 

weather, 90, 102, 191, 199, 272, 
282, 285 
Coloured population, 417 
Colonization Society, 157,428 
Commerce, 193, 214, 306 
Commercial convention, 211 

distress, 214 

facilities, 304, 316, 317, 343 

era, 209, 210 

position, 304, 318 

prosperity, 59, 117 
Common Council, 54, 92, 99, 109, 150, 
151,211 
of Portsmouth, 433 
Companies, 344 
Conclusion, 486 
Conflagration of Norfolk, 80, 85 
Connubial parties, 483 
Convention at Old Point, 259 

at Union, 301 
Corn, 232, 233, 294, 412 
Cornick, Capt. J., 88 
Cornstalk, the sharpshooter, 82 
Cornvvallis, 79 
Corporation scrip, 291 
Cotton factory, 412 

trade, 416 
Council, 109, 1.50 
Courier, 220 
Court-house, 46, 100, 172 

in Portsmouth, 224 
Cowdery, Dr. J., 292 
Cows, 284 

Crawford, Wm., 430 
Crommeline, Elizabeth. 173 
Cummins, Rev. G. D., 178, 234 
Currituck Sound, 467 
Custom-house, 154, 264 

Dade's Massacre, 376 

Daily News, 271 

Davis, Wm. W., 232, 368 

Dawes, S. S., 370 

Deaths, 337 

Death penalty, 158,444 

Debonneville, 225 / 

Decatur, 274,275 '^' 

Deep Creek, 486 

Defeat of the Pretender, 65 

Delany, Wm. D., 216 

Delegation from Clarksville, 247 

Democrats, 394 

Descendants of the Sons of Liberty, 71 

Desert, 459 

Desperate conflict, 444 



' In the description of this building, page 178, for west, read north. 



INDEX. 



491 



Deslitution of the citizens, 91 
Diabolical irunpowder plot, (53 
Directory, "108, 279 
Direct trade, 316 
Dismal Swamp, 483 

Canal, 97, 1G3, 190, 4G7 
Distress, 87, 112 
Divisions of Territory, 44 
Dixon, Rev. R., 461 
Doggett, Dr. D. S., 270 
Donation Church, 461 
Draw-bridge, 163 
Dreaming, 355 
Drought, 93, 265, 289 
Drummondtown, 475 
Dry Dock, 175 
Duel, 274 

Enrly Inhabitants, 39, 40 
Earthquake, 199 
Eastern cities, 406 

Lunatic Asylum, 478 

Shore, 474 

Chapel, 447 
Eastville, 475 

Editors of Norfolk and Portsmouth, 3S2 
Education, 447 
Edwards, Capt. O. E., 229 

Dick, 462 

Rev. J. E., 241, 243, 270 
Election, 287 
Elizabeth City County, 472 

River, 310 
Embargo, 117 
Emmerson, Arthur, Jr., 215 

Capt. A., 122, 125,215 
Energy, 307, 405 
Enterprise wanted, 303, 414 

Northern, 404 

Southern, 415 
E.xcursion, 233 

Expenditures of the Corporation, 112 
E.xploring Squadron, 210 
Explosion, 94 
Exports, 100, 101, 106, 111, 160, 163, 173 

and Imports, 115 

Fairs, 59 

Falls of Niagara, 435 
False alarm, 128 
Fanaticism, 306 
Farmington, N. H.,409 
Farms, 330 

well-conducted, 294 
Fatal accident, 95 
Female Orphan Asylum, 146, 235 
Ferguson, F. F., 137 

P., 137 
Ferriage, 161 
Ferries, 66, 162 
Ferry boats, 161 

connexion, 161 
Fielding, Fanny, 355 
Fiity-Fourth Regiment, 128 
Fillmore, Millard, 278 



Fire, 80, 85, 102, 112, 141, 172, 173,197, 
208, 211, 214, 215,230,238 

companies, 141, 344 

in (Josport, 253 
Fire in Portsmouth, 211 
First Council, 51, 54 

newspaper in Virginia, 99 

settlers, 40 

Sunday School, 149 
Firewood, 177 

works, 199 
Fish, 233 

Fitzgerald. Capt. E. H., 240 
Flour, 314, 412 
Flowers, 322, 436 
Ford, Major, 103, 104 
Fordyce, Capt., 75, 78 
Foreigners, 107 
Foreign trade, 107, 308, 309 
Fort Monroe, 469 
Forts, 122, 128 
Fortifications, 128, 138,469 
Fruit, 293, 330,411 
Fugitive slaves, 88 
Fuller, Dr., 256 
Funeral solemnities, 103, 259 
Furniture, 408 

C4alt, Ale.xander, Jr., 398 
Gamblers killed, 113 
Gardens, 1 18, 323 
Garnett, Col. Wm., 218, 266 
Garrison, Jas. S., 437 
Gas lights, 246 

works, 245 
Georgia, 409 
Gloucester county, 481 
Gold, 241 

Goodchild, Wm., 88 
Gosport,432 " * 

Iron works, 251, 434 
Gough, John B., 228 
Grain business, 232 
Grapes, 330 
Graveyard, 64, 175, 442 

submerged, 459 
Greased pole, 60 
Great bridge, 74 

Grigsby, H. B., 145, 192, 348, 388 
G*****, Lieut., 170 
Groves, 119 
Gunpowder, 113 

plot, 63 

Hail storm, 214. 285 
Hall, C.,213 

Midshipman, 141 

Rev. D.. 187 
Halstead, R., 352 
Hampton, 471 
Hanging, 158 
Hansford, Dr., 71 
Harbour, 34, 316, 343 

survey of, 263, 327, 329 
Harper's Ferry, 435 
Ilartt, S. T., 250 



492 



INDEX. 



Harrison, President, 214 

Head, Rev. N., 243 

Healthfulness of Norfolk, 331 

Hendren, Wm. T., 28fi 

Henry, Patrick, 99, 306 

Herbertsville. 324 

High tide, 92, 214 

Highwaymen, 159, 444 

Hill, Luke, 464 

Hiort, Mr., 103 

Hitselberger, Rev. A. L., 215, 235 

Hogshead race, 60 

Holt, Jno. E., 194 

Home manufactures, 408 

Hopes of love, 370 

youth, 323 
Hospitality, 40, 253, 340 
Hot mush, 60 

Humiliation and prayer, 160 
Hunter, B. W., 176 
Hutchings, John, 55 

I hear thy voice, 353 

Illumination, 167, 214,292 

Imports, 73 

Importers, 405 

Improvements, 407 

Indian mound, 463 

Indians, 36, 376, 477 

Influence of a name, 221 

Ingram, Billy, 290 

Ingram, Mrs. S., 275 

Insurrection, 193 

Intemperance, 445 

Internal communication, 2C0, 307, 308, 

311 
improvements, 241, 247, 248, 249, 

287, 415 
Ireland, 233 
Iron works, 251 
Isle of Wight County, 480 
Ivey, James, 56 

Jackson, Rev. Wm., 63 

Jail, 225 

James River, 415 

James River and Kanawha Canal, 298, 

417 
James the First, 40 
James, G. P. R., 295 
Jamestown, 475, 476 
Jefi'erson's prediction, 221, 296 
Jericho Canal, 484 
Johnston, Mrs. M. B., 263 
Jones, Rev. T. G.,258 
Jones, Rev. R., 108 

Kecoughtan, 471 
Keeling, Adam, 458 

R. James, 220, 365, 366 
Kempsville, 46, 437 
King, Miles, 246 

Labelling the streets and houses, 270 
Ladies, 42, 43, 339, 355, 482 
Ladies of talent, 354 



Lafayette's visit, 164 
Lngaudette, 157 
Lake Drummond, 483, 484 
Lamb, Wm. B., Esq., 286, 291 

Wm. W., 286 
Lamps, 119 

Lancasterian school, 151, 157 
Land, 330 

Landing of the Pilgrims, 478 
Launch, 251 
Laurel Hill, 435 
Legislation, 297 
Legislature, 305 
Leonard, A. F., 287, 361 
Leslie, Capt., 76, 77 
Letters by a South Carolinian, 348 
Lieutenant G., 170 

in the army, 179 
Light reading, 347 
Limits of the county, 45 
Lines by Moore, 485 
Linkhorn Bay, 447, 458 
Literary capacity, 375 

taste, 346 

works, 348 
Local attachment. 340, 442 
Location of Norfolk, 33, 316, 326, 330 
London Bridge, 437, 438, 458 

Bridge Creek, 438, 458 
Longevity, 155, 338 
Long Creek, 458 
Lord Dunmore, 74, 80, 81, 90 

Botetourt, 479 
Loss and distress, 112, 226, 227 
Lotteries, 96 
Lowe, Rev. E. M., 163 
Loyall, Geo., 71, 266 

Paul, 71 
Lucubrations, 369 
Lugg, Capt., 105 
Lumber trade, 193 
Luther, 189, 447 
Lyceum, 175 
Lynnhaven Bay, 456 

Inlet, 457, 466 

name of, 465 

oysters, 221, 457 

river, 456, 465 

creek, 438, 458 

McAlpine, Dr. James, 190 
McCabe. J. C.,235 
McPhail, John, 282 
Macready, the tragedian, 120 
Mace, 203 

Madison's views, 297 
Magazine, 264, 479 
Male orphan asylum, 147 
Mallory, Dr. F., 265, 289, 294 
Manners and customs, 41 
Manual labour school, 147 
Manufactories, 345 
Manufacturing Company, 409 
Manuscripts, 373 
Marine railways, 344 
Society, 150 



INDEX. 



493 



Market-house, 112 I 

Market-house burnt, 141 

Markets. 59 

Martin, Mrs. E., 289 

Massachusetts, 30G, 408, 413 

Matthews County, 481 

Maurice, Major, 138 

Maury, Lieut., 315 

Maxwell's Poems, 348 

Maxwell, VVm.,202, 204 

Mayor, 103. 193 

Mayoralty, 216, 287 

Mayor of" Portsmouth, 433 

Meal, 412 

Means of" access, 314 

Mechanics, 340 

Mechanics' Hall, 251 

Mechanical Benevolent Society, 118 

Mehaffey, A., 251, 434 

Memphis, 119 

Merchants, 116, 345 

Meteoric phenomenon, 197 

Methodism. 189 

Methodist E. Church, 196, 237, 241, 267 

preachers, 188, 189 

P. Church, 190, 225 
Mexicans, 406 
Mexican war, 229 
Michaels, Rev. R., 243 
Midshipmen drowned, 176 

Hall, killed, 141 
Militia officers, &c., 78, 138 
Mild weather, 92 
Miller, Rev. Mr., 63 

Miss Polly, 77, 78 
Mills, 412 

Millson, Hon. John S., 243 
Mineral Springs, 282 
Mingo, 445 

Misstatements, 60, 80, 126 
Mocking-birds, 440 
Money buried, 88 

Monody on the death of Washington, 350 
Moore House, 474 

Thomas, 113,484 
Morality. 42, 340 
Mortality, 336, 337 
Morteotype, 396 
Mountain scenery, 455 
Moseley, Dr. Wm., 235 
Music among the tombs, 381 

of the ocean, 450 
Myers, M., 116 

Name, 44, 221 
Nansemond, 481 

river, 481 
Narrow escape, 95, 96, 226 
Nash, Capt. T., 78, 79 
National Hotel, 209 
Natural advantages, 34, 111 

Bridge, 435 
Nature's music. 442 

Teachings, 357 
Naval hospital, 190 
Navigation, 34, 343 



Navigation Act, 157, ICO 
Navy agency, 265 

yard, 102, 432 
Neglected children, 148 
Negroes in New York, 420 

in Norfolk, 417 
Nelson family, 474 
New England, 414 

hotel, 209 

law, 287 
Newspaper, 99 
Newspapers, 344, 433, 481 
Newton, C. W., 55 

Colonel Thomas, 54, 55, 71, 235 

Dr. Thomas, 55 

George, 54, 55 
Newtown, 46, 432 
New York, 306 

packets, 295 
Nivison, John, 143 
Non-intercourse laws, 173 
Norfolk Academy, 114, 144, 212 

bar, 117 

cannonaded, 80 

and the interior, 285 

and Portsmouth Herald, 100, 213 

established a town, 49 

Female Institute, 245 

Iron Works, 251 

improving. 92, 193, 307, 309 

Junior Volunteers, 109 

market, 142 

merchants, 116 

name of, 44 

volunteers, 105 
Northampton County, 474 
Northeaster, 226, 470 

Ocean House, 470 

scenery, 449, 453, 454 
Odd-Fellows' Hall, 175 
Ode to Solitude, 362 
Officers of the borough, 106, 114 
of the city, 287, 288 
&c., 78, 123, 138 
Old almanac, 479 

commonwealth, 312 

church at Jamestown, 368, 477 

lines on, 368 
coin, 35 
deed, 48 

graveyard, 64, 67 
Point, 468 

Hotel, 469 
settlers' church, 368 
theatre, 252 
Oldest white inhabitant, 289 
Order, 340 

Oriental splendour and decay, 406 
Orphan Asylum, 235 
Outlet for produce, 311 

Packet lines, 344 
Page and Allen, 344 
Painful event, 163 
Para, 317 



494 



INDEX. 



Parade ground, 112, 138 
Parish church, 459 

font, &,c., 463 
Parishes, 45 
Parlier, General, 140 

James, 71 
Parlvs, Rev. M. P., 179-187 
Parson Dixon, 461 
Parting frolic, 448 
Paving, 1)5 

Pegram, E. 8., son of, 239 
Pennociv, 116 
Periodical crimes, 237 
Petersburg Intelligencer, 221 
Pews and free seats, 268, 269 
Phantom, The, 359 
Phillips, Josiah, 445 
Philharmonic Association, 238 
Pig chase, 60 
Piiikney, 385 
Pioneers, 36 

Places of amusement, IIP 
Plays, 120 
Pleasure House, 458 
Plough, Lootn, and Anvil, 413 
Political agitation, 57 
Politics, 393. 394 
Population, 106, 190 
Portsmouth, 429 

Port of Norfolk and Portsmouth, 34 
Post-office, 264 
Premiums, 294 

Presbyterian Church, 206, 207 
Prices current, 207, 214 

of grain, 233 
Princess Anne Court-house, 46 

County.45, 46, 295, 437 
militia, 140. 
Princess of Denmark, 46 
Produce, 298, 309 
Productions, 410 

of the soil, 40,330,414 
water, 310, 330 
Professional ability, 383 
Prospects, 309 
Prosperity, 49, 50, 59, 312 
Protestant Episcopal Church, 173 
Provident Society, 152 
Public buildings, 323, 339, 344 

relative position of, 329 

parks, 118 

schools, 446 

square, 196, 199, 211 

Quilp, 352 

Railroads, 303,311 

Railroad, Charlotte and Columbia, 303 

Clarksville and Ridgway, 301, 303 
continuous line of, from Norfolk, 

300 
Edenton and Norfolk, 200 
Memphis, Lynchburg, and Ten- 
nessee, 241 



Railroad, Nashville and Chattanooga, 303 
N. O. and Memphis, 301 
Norfolk and Petersburg, 287, 295, 

299 
North Carolina, 303 
Pacific, 299, 301 

Portsmouth and Roanoke, 198, 199 
Seaboard and Roanoke, 196, 197, 

249, 266, 282, 301 
subscription, 196, 197, 302 
Virginia and Tennessee, 303 
Weldon and Gaston. 301 
Wilmington* and Manchester, 303 

Rain, 289 

Ratnsay, Dr. John, 56, 71, 84 

Randolph, Sir John, 53 

Random lines, 438 

Real estate, 210,345 

Recorder, 53, 54 

Reformation, 189, 416 

Relative position of Norfolk, 33, 34 

Religious revival, 101, 179, 200 

Reminiscence, 236, 438 

Removal of the citizens, 88 

Resurrection, ()7 

Return of the citizens, 89 

Revolution, 57, 73, 306 

Revolutionary patriots, 306 
spirit, 306 

Richmond theatre, burning of, 119 
Times, 222 

Rip Raps, 469 

Rittenhouse, David, 480 

Riverside, 112 

Roanoke Navigation Co., 197, 247 

Rodney, C. A., 349 

Robbers, 159, 444 

Roberts, Wm., 448 

Robertson, Jos. H., 71, 219 
Harrison, 287 

Robinson, Patrick, 290 

Rodney, C. A., 349 

Roman Catholic Church, 215 

Romance, 438 

Rooke, Capt., 123 

Rosehill. 352 

Rourk, John, 105 

Sabbath, 341 

desecration, 198 

schools, 149, 340 

celebration, 22, 33 
Sack races, 60 
Saint John's Church, Hampton, 472 

Paul's Church, 54, 60, 81 

Helena, 486 
Sale, Jno. H., 251 
Sawyer. S. T., 236 
School-boy days, 447, 448 

house, 446, 447 

master, 446, 448 

mates, 448 
Schooner Tartar, 140 
Scott, Gen. W., 253 



Erroneously inserted Wellington, instead of Wilmington, p. 303. 



INDEX. 



495 



Sculpture, 39!S 
Seabury, Capt., 61 
Sea-shore, 453, 454 

waves, 453, 470 
Selden, Dr. W., 245 
Seminole war, 373, 374 
Sending to the North, 404, 410 
September gale, 159 
Serenade, 2()6 
Settlement, 47 
Settlers' Names, 40* 
Sharp, Col. W., 137, 164 

W. W., 137 
Shelton, D., 247 
Shields, Capt. H., 138 
Capt. H. L.,239 
Wm. C, 145 
Sherwood, Grace, 465 

Rev. S., 446 
Ship becalmed, 451 
engulfed, 452 
in a storm, 452 
Shipping, 49, 115, 199 
Shipwreck, 170 
Shipyard, 107, 344 
Shocking tragedy, 113 
Shoe manufactories, 408 
Sickness during the war, 331 
Site of Norfolk, 33, 47, 48 

original owners of, 49 
Skating, 272 
Slaughter, Dr. A., 143 

fund, 143, 144 
Sleeping giant, 405 
Small-po.x, 68 
Smith, F. H., 383 
Gen., 173 
John, 39, 477 
Samuel, 56 

Rev. Dr. Wm. A., 248 
Smithfield, 480 

Snow storm, 177, 190, 236, 253 
Societies, 344 
Soil, 330 

Solar appearance, 192 
Soldiers' burial, 374 
Soldier sentenced to be shot, 120 
Song of the Emigrants, 361 

Sea'Wave, 366 
Sons of Liberty, 68, 69, 70 
Sources of wealth, 40, 254 
South American Trade, 319 
Southern Argus, 236 

Literary Messenger, 393 
South Carolina, 409 
Soutter, Robert, 215 
Speculation, 232 
Spirit of improvement, 307, 346 
Spirits of the deep, 451 
Sports, 59 
Stag Hunter, 365 
Stamp Act, 68 
State expenditures, 297 



Steamers to Antwerp, 319, 320 

Steam Navigation, 210 

Steamer North Carolina, 155 

Steam Packet Lines, 259, 311, 317 

Statistics, 337 

Steed, Jno. R,, 71 

Stevens, Colonel, 85 

Stone bridge, 152 

Storage of tobacco, 312, 313 

Storm, 159, 172, 225, 259, 279 

Streets, 344 

Stubbs, S. S., 276,287 

Sublime scenery, 475 

Sufiblk, 481 

Sun, strange appearance of, 192 

Sunday markets, 341 

Sunsets, 326, 329 

Supineness of Virginia, 305, 316, 406 

Tabb. T. C, Esq., 402 
Tailor's bill, 72, 73 
Talbot, B. W., 163 

Capt., 66 

Street, 66 
Talent, 346, 403 
Tanner's Creek, 51 
Tazewell, Henry, 54 

L. W., 117, 173, 383, 384 

Jno. N., 387 
Taylor, Gen. R. B., 117, 122, 133, 136, 
199, 387 

Gen. Z., 259 

John, 56 

R. E., 390 

Tazewell, 72 

Wm. E.,390 
Teaching, 446 
Temperance Reformation, 228 

paper, 232 
Terrific e.\plosion, 94, 95 
Thames River, 437 
Theatres, 120 
The ocean, 449 
Thomson, Philip R., 143 
Thompson's scheme, 319 
Thorogood, Colonel, 44, 45 
Thunder storm, 93, 159 
Tobacco, 47, 48, 312, 314 

inspection, 151 

warehouse, 314 
Tonnage, 102 
Tories, 81, 434 
Tornado, 260 
Tory hater, 84 
Town Bridge, 52, 53 

Hall in Portsmouth, 224 
Trade, 115 
Treatment of diseases during the war 

332 
Trinity Church in Portsmouth, 63 
Trip to Baltimore, 155, 456 
Tucker, Miss Margaret, 150 
Robert, 66 



* In the second name of the early settlers (page 40), the reader may substitute 
the letter e in place of the a, although it is probable it was originally written as 
prmted. ■' 



496 



INDEX. 



Tunis, John, 194 

Uncle Tom's Cabin, 428 
U. S. Bank, ISfJ 

Ship Pennsylvania, 234 
Powhatan, 250 
Upshur, Hon. A. P., 475 

Value of Property, 210 
Vegetables, &c., 254 
Virginia, natural advantages and re- 
sources of, 312 
Virginia and Massachusetts, 306 
Voting, 286 

Wadsworth, Rev. E., 228 

Walke, Rev. Anthony, 462 

Walter, T. U., 256 

Walters' Hotel, 214 

Walthall, Byron, 364 

War, 73, 121, 130, 131, 132 

Ward, Bryant, 239 

Warehouses, 314, 345 

Warm weather, 175, 176, 250, 258, 259 

Washington, funeral of, 103 

Point, 486 
Water Works, 217 
Watts, Captain Samuel, 219 
Waves, 453 
Wealth, &c., 345 
Weather, 175, 193, 272 
Webster, Daniel, 291 



Western trade, 311 

West India trade, 91, 115, 156, 319 

West Point, 473 

Wharves, 318, 345 

Wheat, 294 

White, John S., 433 

Whitehead, Dr. A., 349 

Whigs, 394 

Rev. J., 107 
Whitehurst, J. H., 395 
Whittle, Conway, 266 
William and Mary College, 479 
Williamsburg, 478 

Williamson, Captain Thomas H., 383 
Williston, John, 437 
Wills, Josiah, statement of, 313 
Wirt, William, 110, 117, 334 
Wise, Hon. H. A., 260, 391, 475 

John C, 393 
Witch Duck, 464 
Witchcraft, 464 
Wonder Booker, 155 
Wooden buildings, 174 
Woodford, Colonel, 80, 83 

Y"ankee monopoly, 478 
Yellow fever, 159, 333 
York River, 474 
Yorktown, 473 

festival at, 165, 388 
Young, Captain J. P., 229 
Youthful heroism, 239 



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